A stove for heating a house made of bricks. A small brick stove for a summer residence with your own hands. Small heating device

Despite the rapid development of new technologies and the improvement of home heating methods, the old proven brick stoves for wood-fired cottages still do not lose their relevance.

Indeed, often in houses remote from civilization or located in areas where power outages occur, and gas supply is not expected at all, wood-burning brick stoves are the only possible means of heating the room.

But sometimes people deliberately choose brick ovens for their country house despite all the blessings of civilization. After all, they help to create that unique comfort, to give warmth and an atmosphere of solitude, which we are all looking for when going out of town.

About the advantages, the design principle and the features of laying a brick oven with your own hands - we will talk today in this article.

The experience of craftsmen and inventor engineers has given the world a considerable number of types of stoves, from which it is not difficult to choose the only one for giving, which will quickly warm up the room in the winter cold and help cook food.

But, despite all the variety of stone ovens, they can all be divided into 3 categories:

• cooking;
• heating and cooking;
• heating structures.

In addition, you can also find multifunctional designs that combine a fireplace, a water circuit, etc. Therefore, before starting construction brick oven in the country, you should immediately decide on the type of construction.

1. Cooking type of construction. This type of stove is chosen by the owners of the cottage only if the house is used only in the summer. This option is well combined with a tank for heating water. Often, the owners install such a stove in a house where there is gas and electricity supply, but in order to save money, it is more rational to use a wood-burning stove in the summer.

The design is a stove with a hob, a water-heating tank and an oven.

Furnaces for summer cottages are also divided according to the type of construction:

• Russian;
• Dutch (Dutch);
• Swedish (Swedish).

Of course, today you can find many other variations of wood-burning stoves, but these are the most common, which have proven themselves due to their high efficiency, reliability and efficiency.

Russian stove

This design has been used by our ancestors for centuries, and its main feature is the arrangement of a bench and a shelf for drying shoes and clothes. If the house is in use all year round, then this option is very effective. But for summer cottage it is better to refuse the Russian stove.

The fact is that the high efficiency of the Russian stove is achieved only with a constant firebox. If you leave such a stove for the winter, then it will take more than one day to dry it later and “start” the stove into operation. By virtue of their technical features, it quickly gains moisture without a firebox.

In addition, during the first firing of wet bricks, it is possible that it will crack.

The Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, so it will not always be appropriate to look at a small cottage.

The only advantage is the unpretentiousness of the material itself for the construction of the furnace and enough a simple circuit masonry.

Dutch

One of the most popular types of stone ovens, the design of which suggests the presence of a smoke channel. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman effectively heats several rooms at once.

The advantages include:

• small dimensions;
• high efficiency;
• economy of fuel consumption.

But the disadvantages of such a furnace are high quality requirements. building material and wood quality. In addition, at sub-zero temperature outside the window, such a stove warms up for a long time, so it is better to constantly heat it.

Swede

Such a furnace enjoys well-deserved popularity in our country, as it was developed taking into account the harsh climate of the northern countries. The advantage of the Swede is compactness, high performance, fast heating and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

This is achieved due to the special design of the furnace. The back side with a fireplace usually goes into the living room, and on the front side there is an oven and a hob. For summer cottages, this type of stove is the best choice.

The only drawback of the Swede can be called high requirements for the quality of the material. If a Russian stove can be folded from the remnants of the material, then for a Swede you will have to purchase high-quality ceramic red bricks.

Also, high requirements are placed on firewood "Swedes". They must be well dried, otherwise the stove will not give off heat.

Design features of a brick oven for a summer residence

Depending on the type and design, the oven can perform the following functions:

• Cooking (frying, boiling, stewing, baking, etc.).
• Drying shoes and clothes, as well as preparing food for the winter (mushrooms, berries).
• Heating beds.
• Opportunity to admire the open flames on winter evenings.

In addition to the functional classification, before building a brick oven for a summer residence, you need to decide on the configuration.

• rectangular heating stove;
• T-shaped;
• round oven;
• Russian stove with stove bench;
• baby.

The size of the oven is also important. The large, thick-walled furnace design is capable of distributing heat over 50 square meters. But in order to warm them up well, it will take at least two hours, which is not always convenient.

This is especially uncomfortable in the country, where the owners drop in only for the weekend. A cold house will warm up for at least 3-4 hours before the room temperature returns to normal.

With a small oven big house do not warm up. Its heat is enough for a room of 15-20 square meters. meters. At the same time, it will warm up in 30-40 minutes, giving off heat around. In addition, we should not forget about the efficiency of the furnace. For a large stove, you need to take care of the supply of firewood in advance and prepare a large one from the summer.

The stone stove also has a significant drawback - the impossibility of heating the distant premises of the house. That is why in large houses with several rooms, 2-3 stoves are placed, each of which has its own chimney and performs its function.

According to the principle of construction, brick ovens can be:

• Channel with forced movement of gases.
• Bell-type furnaces with free movement of gases.

Channel stoves include the usual "Dutch" or "Swede". The combustion of firewood takes place in the firebox, from which the smoke channel departs. Under the action of draft, combustion products are discharged through this smoke channel.

The main task of this design is to maximize the heating of the furnace wall, and after that the heat will spread throughout the room for a long time.

Despite the simplicity of design, such a furnace has several disadvantages.

• It all depends on the traction force. The narrow channel obstructs the airflow and a sufficiently high chimney is required to overcome this resistance to the flow. In houses with low ceilings, this is not always convenient. And in the end, after arranging the furnace, the owners are faced with the problem of poor draft in the furnace.
• In addition, the principle of the channel structure of the furnace involves the concentration of hot air at the top of the furnace. That is, most of the heat is removed to the top. Because of this, below, near the floor, it is quite cold.
• The efficiency of such units does not exceed 60-65%. And the average, with standard traction, is even less - 40-45%.
• Due to the large design, such an oven heats up for a long time. To heat the structure from scratch, it will take 2.5-3 hours.

Furnaces with free movement of gases show themselves in a completely different way in everyday life. Their principle was first described by Lomonosov, and later modified by Kuznetsov, which is why in everyday life such furnaces were called "blacksmiths".

The principle of operation is based on the movement of free gases. As we know from physics, hot air rises, displacing cold air. In such a furnace, the furnace and combustion chamber are combined, and hot air circulates freely from one chamber to another.

Such furnaces also have a second and sometimes a third chamber, which are interconnected by a dry seam located at the bottom of the chamber.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What are the nuances you need to know before proceeding with the laying of the furnace?

Materials that will be needed for laying the furnace.

Tools that will be needed for laying the furnace:

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.
• Goniometer.

Important! A lot of things when laying a stove depend on the quality of the clay. It should be moderately thick and have an average fat content. Red river clay, which has lain on outdoors at least two years. Clay, under the influence of precipitation and natural factors, becomes plastic, homogeneous and will firmly hold the masonry.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands: step by step instructions

If all the conditions of the instructions are met, the laying of the furnace will take 30-35 days. Order is of great importance here. You should not violate it or try to introduce your own adjustments to the design. The laying of rows, their number and installation of elements are clearly calibrated and require strict adherence to the instructions.

Below is a diagram of the ordering of a brick oven with a hob and an oven.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace.

Once you have decided where you will place the stove: in the corner, in the center or against the wall, you should clearly mark the location of the stone structure on the floor.

In order to clearly guess with the construction of the chimney and not to rest when laying the pipe in wooden beam roofs, we use a construction plumb line.

• We draw the layout of the stove and the location of the firebox, chimney, hob and oven.
• Consider the location of windows and doors that will prevent the free circulation of warm air.

In order for the stove to serve for a long time and please you with its maximum performance, we will give some recommendations regarding its placement. And it's not just about following the rules. fire safety but also its efficiency.

Today we propose to consider the features of a brick oven with a hob, since it is it that is very popular with summer residents. Our detailed diagram ordering will help you build brick ovens for wood-fired cottages.

Step 2. We build the foundation for the furnace.

The construction of any furnace begins with the construction of the foundation. This is a very important step, on which strength will depend, reliable design and its effectiveness.

Ideally, of course, designing the stove even before the construction of the house. Then both the place and the ideal place for the furnace will be allotted, and the foundation will be laid out at the stage of erecting the floors. But often people think about laying a stove after they have built a house. Therefore, we chose this option so that you can build a foundation from scratch in an already finished house.

In no case should the foundation be connected with the main foundation of the house. When shrinking the house or other phenomena, the base of the stove should not be deformed.

• We mark with a construction marker on the floor a rectangle along which the boards need to be cut.

  

  Keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the size of the oven by 10-15 cm on each side.

• By marking with a grinder, we cut out the boards and remove them to the sides.
• Now you need to “deep” into the ground by 70 cm in order to build a solid foundation for the stove. For this we use bayonet shovel. Focus on the layer of soil that will freeze in winter. IN middle lane Russia, it can reach 80-100 cm. In this case, you will have to increase the depth of the pit. It is very important to insulate the perimeter of the foundation with high quality. If you are building a stove in an already finished house, where the common foundation is well insulated around the perimeter, then you can dig a hole of 30 cm. This will be enough.

  

• After a pit is dug in the ground along the perimeter of the marking, we proceed to the construction of a wooden formwork. The formwork acts as a framework that forms the foundation. For formwork, you can use plywood boards, old ceilings, etc.

  

  This will not affect the quality and strength of the foundation in any way. Measure the length and width of the dug hole and cut the boards to this size. Using nails, put together the formwork. It should end 14 cm before the start of the finishing floor.

• After the formwork has been built, it is necessary to protect the wood from the moisture that will be contained in the cement mortar. To do this, we lay dense polyethylene around the perimeter and connect construction stapler with walls. Waterproofing is the most important component of the work in the construction of the foundation. If the frozen, moisture-saturated soil comes into direct contact with concrete base furnace, then a force equal to 25 tons per 1 square meter will press on the foundation, which leads to destruction
• Now you can start filling cement mortar, but before that you need to create a solid pillow that retains moisture. At the bottom of the pit we pour gravel of medium hardness and pour 10-15 cm of sand.
• We fill the foundation with cement mortar to the height of the formwork, not reaching the clean floor by 14 cm.
• We lay a reinforcing metal mesh on top.

  

  Level the top well with a shovel and check with a building level how even the surface is. Now you need to wait 24-28 days, depending on the quality of the cement mortar, until the foundation is completely dry. In no case do not rush, and do not lay the stove before this time, otherwise it will deform in a few weeks.

• On a flat and well-dried concrete surface, we lay two continuous rows of bricks around the perimeter of the foundation. Thus, our foundation reaches the finishing floor.

  

• Now it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material in 2 layers on top of the masonry, which will perform the function of waterproofing.

  

• A solid base for a brick oven is ready - you can proceed directly to the masonry. But, before laying bricks on the mortar, it is better to lay out the entire structure, according to the scheme, “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you will be able to see difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Attention! It is also recommended to perform each new layer first "dry". This is especially true for beginners who first encounter the laying of the furnace. After laying a brick on the mortar, it will be difficult for you to correct your mistakes and inaccuracies.

Step 3. Preparing bricks for masonry.

Immediately measure the amount of brick that you need for the first stage of work. Please note that laying a furnace is a complex and time-consuming process and cannot be completed in a day. Be guided that beginners will be able to master 4-5 rows a day, no more.

Select a portion of red ceramic brick, clean it well and soak for 12 hours in water.

When you lay out a fireclay brick firebox, it will be enough just to rinse it with water.

The process of preparing the material for masonry includes, and the division of the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, squeezing in the corners. See the diagram for what shape of brick you will need for each row. It is better to do this immediately, so that later, when laying a row, not to be distracted by these moments.

Brick splitting also needs to be done at this stage. Keep in mind that before you "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove.

At the same time, one longitudinal groove is enough for ½ brick. But if you need to chip off 1/6 or 1/8 of a brick, then a groove is made on all sides of the brick.

Step 4. We prepare the mortar for masonry.

The correct solution for laying the furnace is the key to its effective work. If you decide to lay a brick oven for a wood-fired cottage with your own hands, then it is better to prepare the solution yourself.

Video. Furnace lining. We make a solution of clay with our own hands.

Although on sale now you can find ready-made factory solutions for laying the furnace, which are of good quality.

To do this, you need sand and red river clay. It is clay that is the indispensable material, without which no masonry mortar is inconceivable. Due to its unique properties, soft and plastic, it, under the influence of fire, turns into a durable stone.

After firing, it acquires the strength of a brick and can endure the highest temperature. However, in order for it to really be strong and securely fasten the masonry, it is necessary to observe the correct proportion of all ingredients.

One of the main indicators of the quality of clay is its fat content. If you take "skinny" clay, then when heated, it can crack.

We will not indicate the exact amount of ingredients, since there is no ideal proportion. Depending on the quality of the clay, its fat content, the solution is made "by eye".

It should have the consistency of thick homemade sour cream, not dripping from the trowel. At the same time, in no case should there be grains in it, so the solution should be thoroughly kneaded.

We measure required amount clay, which is needed for masonry, and fill it with water. You do not need to immediately prepare the solution for the entire furnace, if you do not plan to finish the masonry in 1 day. Measure as much as you can.

Attention. Clay mortar is not suitable for arranging the foundation and chimney. Usually cement mortar is used for this.

Step 5 We are building a furnace.

The first row is very important in the furnace and the whole form of the structure depends on it. Therefore, first lay out the first solid row “on dry”, and put on top building level. Keep straight corners. They can be checked in the process with a plumb line.

Before proceeding directly to the laying of bricks, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with detailed instruction and tips for building a furnace.

Video. Learning to lay a small stove.

Advice! Even seams may not work the first time. For this you can use wooden slats, equal in thickness to the thickness of the seam. They are laid on a row, after which the solution is applied and the second row is placed. Prepare so many slats that they are enough for three rows. By the time you have completed the third row, you will be able to remove the sizing tool from the first row and use it further.

Before laying the first row of bricks on the roofing material, make markings with chalk.

Advice! So that the stove does not go to the side during laying, and it is not necessary to check the vertical of the stove after each row, you can pull 4 sheer threads in the corners, which are fixed to the ceiling. They will serve as a kind of beacons as landmarks for the furnace.

• 2nd row repeats the first. Watch the thickness of the seams. Here the blower door is installed.

  

  To do this, we pass the burnt metal wire through the holes and twist it into a bundle. The second end of the wire is laid between the bricks.

• The 3rd row forms an ash chamber in which all the ashes and ash accumulate.

  

  All gaps between bricks and metal elements must be filled with asbestos cord, which levels the temperature drop during the furnace.

  

• 4, 5th row begins to form a firebox with fireclay bricks.
• We install a grate on top. Keep a seam gap of 3-5 mm. This gap must be left taking into account the expansion of the metal at high temperatures. Fill this gap with sand. We block the door of the blower with a brick. Installing the oven.

  

• 6th row. We begin to form the chimney pipe and lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.
• 7th, 8th, 9th rows - laying the firebox with fireclay bricks.

  

• On the 10th row, close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Here we lay a metal corner (on front side under the stove).
• On the 10th row we lay an asbestos strip before we install the hob on the next row. The fact is that metal elements tend to expand when heated, so it is important to lay a layer of asbestos.

  

• 11th row - install the hob. Please note that the slab is placed directly into the recesses on the brick. To clearly guess with the markings of these recesses, number each brick when you lay the row and mark with a marker the place where it is necessary to cut it with a grinder.



After that, assemble a row for a solution. Keep in mind that the entire row is placed on a clay-sand mortar, but she herself hob on clay-asbestos liquid solution. To prepare it, take a small portion of the prepared clay-sand mortar and add crushed asbestos, knead well.

Attention! If the burners of the hob have different diameters, then it is necessary to place larger ones above the combustion chamber, and smaller holes above the oven.

Attention! When laying out the smoke channels, make sure that the solution does not remain inside. Remove the remains of the solution with a washcloth or trowel, otherwise it will then interfere with the unhindered circulation of hot air.

• 17.18th row. We cover the hob, carefully filling the seams with a 3-5 mm solution.

  

• 19th and 20th row - on the right side we install the doors through which the oven will be cleaned.
• We make the 21-23rd row according to the ordering scheme of the chimneys.
• 24th row - we lay out the last steel plate on top of the bricks, which ensures the zigzag movement of gas in the smoke channel.
• 25th row - put a metal sheet.

  

• On the 26th row, we mount the valve, taking into account a gap of 5 mm, between which we lay an asbestos cord.



27-28th row - lay out a hole for the chimney.

• On the 29th row, the masonry is expanded by ¼ brick to create a cornice. Here we block all channels, leaving only the pipe.

  

• On the 30th row, we make an additional extension of 5 cm.
• On the 31st row, we reduce the size of the furnace to its original form.

  

Step 6. Laying the chimney.

The location of the chimney is indicated at the design stage of the furnace. But in any case, for normal draft, the height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters.

Also make sure that there is no residue of the solution inside, otherwise it will interfere with normal traction.

Taking the pipe out of the house through the roof, consider the height of the visor. It must be 50 cm below the top of the chimney, otherwise turbulence may form around the chimney.

We complete the laying of the chimney with a metal grate that prevents debris from entering the chimney. You can also install a cap (umbrella) on the top of the chimney, which will reliably protect the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Finishing lining of the furnace.

After the oven is completely laid out, you can proceed to the finishing lining. Facing can be used as an outer layer decorative rock, ceramic tiles, red brick.

Remember that any additional material applied to the outside of the stove will reduce heat output.

Therefore, if you are more interested in the efficiency of the furnace than its appearance, you can simply cover the brick with a layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Drying the oven.

Having completely finished laying the furnace, it is necessary to dry it well, since it now contains a large number of moisture from the solution.

To do this, open the door of the combustion chamber and leave the stove for 7-10 days. Brick and clay-sand should dry well, otherwise from high temperature"Raw masonry" can be deformed.

If you build a stove in warm weather, then it will dry naturally. In cold weather, use a fan.

Another option for forced drying is a 200-300W electric light bulb, which is installed inside the firebox and left to burn for 7-10 days. But this is a forced measure that must be taken only if the temperature outside is less than zero degrees Celsius.

Step 9. Kindling the furnace.

When all finishing work is completed and the oven is well dried, it is necessary to carry out the first test kindling. This is not a tricky thing, but it’s better to follow our advice to avoid trouble and achieve maximum efficiency ovens:

• Do not use garbage or glossy magazines for kindling.
• Keep flammable items away from the oven.
• Close the firebox door tightly before the flame ignites.
• Do not immediately apply strong heat to the oven. You need to warm it up gradually.
• Use only high-quality, well-dried firewood.

The video describes in detail the process of laying on a dry simple brick oven

Video. Detailed laying of a brick oven for a summer residence.

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IN country house or in the country, a brick oven is still relevant, which heats the room and serves as a cooking appliance. Using the instruction-ordering of the heating and cooking stove, you can build a brick structure with your own hands, while significantly saving material resources.

When choosing which particular design to give preference to, it must be borne in mind that there are the following types of furnaces, depending on the functionality:

• heating brick oven, designed only for heating the room. The structure is small in size (column - Dutch);
• cooking types of brick ovens for the home are equipped with a cast-iron stove, which is suitable for cooking, heating water. The stove is not adapted to heat the dwelling (Swede);
• combined, universal heating and cooking structures with a hob, capable of heating a different area of ​​a country house. Modern ovens are equipped with an oven, a niche for drying fruit and vegetable products. Often combine stoves and fireplaces.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick types of heating furnaces differ in the thickness of the walls of the heating device:

• thin-walled (Dutch) - the wall lies in 1/4 brick (6.5 cm). The design quickly heats up the room, but practically does not retain heat. Profitable as a stove for a summer residence, where the owners do not live in winter, but come for a short period;
• thick-walled (Russian oven) - wall thickness - 12-25 cm (1/2 −1 brick). The unit is heated for a long time, and the heat is maintained for longer than a day. The lack of construction - a lot of firewood is required for the winter;
• combined designs, in which the firebox is laid out with thick walls, and the chimney is 1/4 brick.

Types of furnaces

For heating the house and cooking food, a brick oven is used, which is different in the form of construction:

• rectangular;
• corner;
• square;
• T - shaped types of stoves;
• round.

Various exterior finish heating devices in a private house:

• design "for embroidery";
• plastered;
• ceramic cladding;
• metal cover finish.

They put stoves for heating with different directions of smoke flows:

• direct-flow and counter-current;
• single-turn and multi-turn;
• with horizontal or vertical channels;
• channelless and with bottom heating.

Each owner must choose before building which furnace device suits him best.

General arrangement of the heating structure

To independently fold a brick heating stove for the house, you need to carefully understand the structure of the stove and the principle of its operation:

• the heart of the device can be figuratively called a firebox where coal or firewood is laid;
• after fuel combustion, heated air enters the internal channel wells, the walls of which heat up, giving off heat to the room;
• below, under the combustion chamber, there is an ash pan, separated by a grate;
• the ash chamber serves not only to collect combustion products, but also regulates the air supply to the fuel (by opening and closing the door, you can increase or decrease the air supply);
• it is recommended to clean the ash pan as it is filled so that a reverse draft is not created with the flow of smoke into the living room;
• the size of the ash pan is selected depending on the type of fuel. If it is supposed to heat with firewood, the height of the ash pan is equal to 1/5 of the height of the furnace section, with solid fuel, a third is enough;
• in the upper part of the firebox there is an opening through which the smoke is directed to the chimney;
• hot air passes through the heating ducts, and then goes out through the pipe;
• soot is gradually deposited on the walls of the chimney, which should be cleaned regularly. Special doors lead to the cleaning chambers;
• the scheme of the furnace determines how to insert the oven, lay the cast-iron hob, install the tank for heating water.

Each type of stove for a brick house has its own chimney arrangement. They help to figure out how to lay brick heating stoves correctly, drawings of the order of the heating and cooking stove, which detail the operation procedure.

Choosing a place in the house

In order to make the most of the quality indicators of the chosen model, you need to know how to properly position the brick oven for the house in the space of the room.

• Heating and cooking devices are recommended to be placed in the house, taking into account the following nuances:
• the best place to lay the stove is at the crossroads internal walls partitions. Wherein hob and the fuel door should be in the kitchen, and the heated wall should “look” into the room;
• using brick oven projects, you can install the building right in the middle big room. At the same time, the room is divided into 2 parts, and especially beautiful structures serve as an interior decoration;
• you can not curtain the walls with clothes or curtains, so as not to create a fire hazard;
• at the location heating furnace near outer wall, a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the street;
• if the brick structure weighs more than 250 kg, it is necessary to make a solid foundation for the installation of a brick oven, which at the same time will not come into contact with the foundation of the house;
• roof beams should not touch the chimney to avoid the risk of fire;
• a metal sheet is placed in front of the furnace, the edge of which is pressed against the brickwork of the furnace.

To ensure the removal of smoke, the stove pipe must rise above the roof at least 0.5 meters.

Necessary materials and tools

To lay out a stove for a wood-burning house, you must first prepare the necessary components:

• cast iron hob with burners;
• door for the combustion chamber;
• ash pan door;
• doors small size to clean smoke passages;
• grate;
• wire or steel tape to fix the doors;
• reinforcing strips of steel;
• metal corner for edging the top of the device;
• damper for blocking the summer course of smoke;
• metal sheet (pre-furnace) to ensure fire safety;
• oven, water heater.

Brick ovens for the house - their drawings with orders are designed for a certain amount of red and refractory bricks. At the same time, the building is preliminarily laid dry in order to correctly select the required material and understand the principle of operation of the heater.

• types of hammers: pickaxe, furnace and rubber;
• wooden spatula for mixing the solution;
• levels: horizontal and vertical;
• trowel (trowel);
• pliers, rasp, chisel;
• containers for solution, water;
• bast brush.

Which solution is better to use

The laying scheme of the furnace requires the use of various solutions in the process of its construction:

• to build a solid foundation, a mortar of high quality cement and sand is used in a ratio of 1:3. The structure is strengthened by adding gravel, reinforcement;
• we put the first (zero) row of the furnace with our own hands solid. Be sure to align the plane horizontally and vertically. A cement-sand mortar is used;
• the main body of the device with heating wells is laid out on a clay-sand mortar. This takes into account that before using the building for its intended purpose, the masonry must dry for at least 2-3 days;
• for the fortress of the combustion chamber, fireclay is added instead of ordinary sand, using the ratio clay:sand:water (1:1:0.25);
• the pipe is made out on a cement or lime mortar to prevent the building from soaking during precipitation. It should be borne in mind that the cement composition for laying furnaces is used within 1 hour. In the future, the mixture becomes unusable.

cook by yourself mortar at home is not recommended, so as not to harm your health. It is easier to use store-bought lime dough, which is used as a base when kneading the mortar.

Milestones and Important Features

All the nuances of how to lay out the oven with your own hands are presented in the ordinal drawings of brick ovens for the home. It is only necessary to use the material presented correctly.

The calculation of the efficiency of the required device helps to choose the most suitable furnace drawings. At the same time, the standard of heat radiation with square meter The area of ​​the device is considered to be 0.5 kW under normal conditions, and 0.76 kW in severe frosts. It is assumed that the house is well insulated from the outside.

To heat a living area of ​​100 sq. meters, it is necessary to build a furnace structure 2.5 m high, with a useful heating area of ​​17.5 sq. meters. In this case, in normal mode, 8.5 kW of heat is released, and with intensive use of the device - 13.3 kW. The heat transfer of cooking furnaces is slightly higher due to metal plate, ovens.

What furnaces are in size, power, appearance, is taken into account when choosing a suitable structure. All parts of the structure are interconnected, therefore, when calculating how to lay the firebox of a device with a stove, the following requirements must be observed:

• installation of the firebox according to the drawing always corresponds to the standard size of the laid brick. Therefore, it is recommended to pre-fold the stove dry;
• we lay out the device for country needs with thinner walls, for permanent heating it is better to lay a thick-walled firebox or purchase a finished cast-iron structure.

A step-by-step diagram of laying the simplest design of a heating and cooking unit

If there is no experience of a stove-maker, but a person is familiar with the principles of building masonry, you can lay out a simple device for cooking and heating a building with your own hands. A Swedish-designed stove with a separate cooking facility is most suitable for beginners.

Getting started - laying out the zero and first row furnace device solid masonry, with obligatory dressing of rows. In this case, it is necessary to carefully calibrate the horizontal and vertical plane building level, to ensure the accuracy of the angles on the entire surface of the base of the future heating structure.

Scheme order:

• on the 3rd row, it is necessary to lay out the blower chamber and begin mounting the ash door (14 × 13 cm), securing it with steel wire or metal strips. On the sides of the device, 3/4 bricks should be installed;
• on the left, the construction of a chimney channel begins, measuring 14 cm. A cleaning door is installed in the wall to select soot, which is best replaced with a half brick placed on the edge;
• on the 5th row, the ash door is covered with a brick, a 26 × 26 cm hole is formed for the installation of grates so that the ash from the burnt material spills into the prepared compartment;
• on the 6th row, the blower decreases to 20 cm, which is slightly wide over size grates. At the same time, it is necessary to narrow the smoke channel to 26×26 cm;
• in the 7th row, the bricks for the grate are slightly squeezed to the size of the device so that the grate fits freely in the recess without fixing with mortar;
• on the 8th row, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower section of the firebox is formed (52 × 26 cm), a cast-iron door of the firebox is installed;
• 9, 10 rows are laid in accordance with the scheme, always maintaining the correct dressing of bricks, in which each element of the masonry rests on the 2 lower ones;
• on the 11th row, the furnace door is completely fixed. A cast-iron hob is placed on top of the weak masonry mortar. The perimeter of the furnace device is reinforced with a metal corner (30 × 30 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm);
• the formation of the chimney shield continues up to the 20th row, repeating even and odd rows without change;
• on row 21, two vertical chimney channels are combined into one, forming a horizontal overlap of rows 22-23;
• the opening of the third channel is lined with bricks in compliance with the dressings, forming a pipe for removing smoke.

The finished oven must be dried for 10-15 days with the doors open. Then it is recommended to gradually heat the device - first with thin branches, chips, gradually switching to wood fuel.

What to consider when laying a heating unit

Mandatory fire safety standards:

• the foundation of the heating structure should not come into contact with the base of the residential building;
• the minimum distance between the heating structure and wooden wall at home - 26 cm;
• size sheet metal in front of the firebox - not less than 50 × 70 cm;
• elevation above the floor of the zero row - 14 cm or more;
• from the top of the structure to the ceiling, a gap of 35 cm is maintained (not less);
• the thickness of the chimney wall in the attic is 12 or more centimeters;
• if the top of the attic is made of combustible material, it is necessary to fill the area with sand, 10-13 cm deep;
• the structure of the pipe above the roof is increased in width - at least 13 cm;
• if the pipe is 3 or more meters from the ridge, its top is located 10 ° from the horizon line of the ridge;
• in the case when the distance is less than 3 meters, the pipe should rise 50 cm above the ridge.

How to fold the stove yourself

With self-laying, it is important to fully adhere to the chosen scheme-ordering of the structure. In this case, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that each element rests on the 2 lower ones. First you need to stock up on the right amount of halves and quarters of bricks.

It is recommended to first lay out each row dry in order to remember the place of each brick in the masonry. The thickness of the seams is maintained within 3-5 cm. The excess solution must be removed in a timely manner, without waiting until it hardens. Plastering the chimney is not allowed, as heat transfer will be disturbed.

If a gap forms between the door frame and the brickwork, it should be sealed with asbestos cord.

The structure of the heating and cooking unit must meet all the requirements of the drawing - only then the product made by oneself will serve for a long time.

Brick ovens are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (due to draft and constant air renewal in the room), there is no need for additional installation radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and heat the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very healthy.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all the instructions, follow the masonry technology, monitor the horizontal rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the furnace is in the center of the house.

• Heating;
• For cooking (the forerunners of modern stoves);
• Cooking and heating (a combination of the two previous models);
• Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

Construction is desirable to carry out in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: brick - 220 pieces, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast-iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), an asbestos cement sheet, a grate - a grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, be sure to build a foundation. We choose the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and level ground water. We are waiting for the complete hardening of the foundation and proceed to construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended, as a training, to lay out the oven without mortar in order to avoid mistakes in the future. The rows will be numbered along the masonry for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak bricks in water.

1. The first two rows are laid out according to the drawing, solid. To do this, you need 10 bricks for each row.
2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we fasten it to the wire and special metal fasteners).
3. 4: we build this row, referring to the order, building up the walls.
4. 5: we are building a brick ceiling above the blower door, we are laying the grate (do not forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate of the grate to brickwork, we fill the gap with sand).
5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the furnace door. We are building the sixth row, clamping the fastening of the door with bricks.
6. The seventh and eighth rows - we build up the walls, observing the order, again referring to the drawing.
7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating an overlap above it. In this row, we begin to build a smoke box and finish it by the eleventh row.
8. To separate the cooking zone and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on the edge. We fix the cast-iron hob (row number 12).
9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row, lay out the bricks "on edge". Cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we put a cleaning door, we build up the walls of the furnace.
12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace, bandaging the previous row).
14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
15. After that, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we make masonry according to the drawing. In the 27th and 28th rows, we leave a space between the bricks to clean the furnace.
16. Then we make a complete overlap of the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
17. From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and bring the chimney to the street.

How to kindle a brick oven with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If they are, cover with a solution of clay. We clean the furnace from combustion products. We prepare firewood. Warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the blower door ajar for air access. For uniform burning of firewood we turn with a poker in the process of their burning. Additional firewood is best done after the formation of the first coals.

We make a wood-burning stove for the house: Instructions for building a brick oven

Such a stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of ​​30-40 sq.m.

The furnace has three flue channels arranged vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we get:

• full-bodied ceramic bricks M175 - 400 pieces;
• refractory bricks - 20 pieces (SHB8);
• two-burner cast-iron stove 70x40 cm;
• valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
• furnace door 27x30 cm;
• blower doors 2 pieces 15x16 cm;
• masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build the foundation for the furnace and proceed to laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it sets the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is not more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fire cut.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install a blower door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future, the combustion chamber will be lined with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we produce fasteners for the cleaning door and the formation of the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we block the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we make the overlap of the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see the formation of two vertical smoke channels 12x12 cm.

We denote the left channel with the number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one - with the number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the furnace in winter). The dimensions of the outlet channel are 25x12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form channels and set furnace door.

Eighth row: we bandage row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the furnace.

We put the valve of the summer course. If you open it, the smoke will directly enter the chimney without overheating the room excessively. If the valve is closed, flue gases will enter channel number 3 and pass along a long path, heating the entire structure of the furnace and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking of the furnace door.

Tenth row: we close the furnace door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here, flue gases will pass from the second channel to the first when burning in winter mode.

From fireclay bricks we cut out slots for the grate of the grate and put it inside the furnace. We isolate the back wall with mineral wool.

Modern brick stoves for wood-fired cottages perfectly warm the room and do not dry the air. Every summer resident can build such a structure, if you approach the project implementation process correctly. Besides that wood stoves serve as a source of heat in the house, they cook dishes. Firewood, as a source of fuel, is a cheap and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is not difficult to get in the countryside.

What are they?

Brick ovens for a wood-burning house, despite the presence of modern electric fireplaces, yet remain relevant in many country mansions. A similar design is being built according to drawings and diagrams, which are not difficult to find. fits perfectly into any interior. The construction of such a structure in the house has several advantages:

• Wood burning stoves long time retain heat in the room and do not cool as quickly as metal devices.
• The heat from the device spreads evenly over the entire area of ​​​​the room, simultaneously warming up the neighboring rooms.
• During construction, you can independently calculate the consumption of materials and heat transfer.
• - a source of fresh air and a healthy atmosphere.

Types of structures

There are several types of summer or winter wood-burning stove for the home, each of which has unique characteristics and construction schemes. The main types of devices:

• Heating. The main task of such furnaces is to heat the room as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to create comfortable conditions for people to live. The size of the structures is selected individually depending on the needs of the customer.
• Cooking. The design is also called a food oven for the kitchen. These devices prepare various dishes. Some projects involve one whole system, which greatly enriches the functionality.

What are they made of and what tools are needed?

Before starting construction, it is important to check the presence of all tools and materials for the job. It is quite difficult for beginners to lay furnaces alone, therefore it is recommended that the entire process be supervised by an experienced person in construction. To build a fireplace stove with your own hands, you need the following inventory:

• shovel;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• building level;
• hammer;
• plumb;
• Master OK;
• rule.

The scheme for building a wood-burning stove provides a standard set necessary materials:

• corner;
• valve;
• hob;
• oven;
• doors;
• bricks of various types;
• clay and sand, crushed stone;
• cement, water and others Additional materials for solution.

Stages of work

Solution preparation

Furnace project for summer kitchen involves several stages of construction. At the first stage, it is necessary to allocate a place for the future foundation, to prepare a pit. After that, the solution is mixed, and the basis of the supporting structure is formed. After pouring cement mixture, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time (2-3 days) until the foundation dries. Next, prepare a clay solution and proceed to the main process of laying.

The mixture for laying bricks for a wood-burning stove is made of a thick consistency, and it is important to take into account some features. Before using the finished solution, be sure to check its quality. There are several methods that allow you to assess the degree of readiness of the mixture. Several balls are rolled from the solution, which subsequently, after drying, should not have cracks on the surface. If any - the masonry mixture is not the most best quality. You can bake a similar ball in the oven. In the case when, after baking, the product has retained its shape and there are no visible damages, the solution is considered to be of high quality.

With a fireplace for heating a house, there will be no problems in operation if all construction standards are observed.

How to lay a brick?

• Throughout the base, two continuous rows of bricks are laid out in accordance with the construction scheme. The edges of the structure are laid out from solid products.
• In the 3rd row, an ash chamber is formed, the door of which is fixed on the 2nd row of masonry. The fourth and fifth brick row must be blocked, after which it is installed as desired drying chamber for wood.
• After the 6th row, the furnace system is increased to the inside, while controlling the laying level and corners.
• On the 7th row, fittings are mounted in the form of a grate and a solid grate, and the firebox door is fixed.
• After that, at the 8th and 10th stages, a combustion chamber is formed, while in the process of lining it is necessary to fix the dryer, which completely overlaps, starting from the 11th row. The surface of the structure is lined with metal rods, after which it is poured concrete mix. The future chimney is being laid.
• A brick is placed in line 12, on which a small kitchen stove. The surface is installed directly into the brickwork, and water containers are fixed near it.
• The masonry stages are completed with the formation of a chimney.

The question of how to fold a brick oven for a house with your own hands does not cease to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always remained for a person. important conditions for a good rest after a busy day. Therefore, in Lately more and more urban residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private houses, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.

Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options that are acceptable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even in the case when all the "benefits of civilization" are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is wet or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.

Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, you should choose stoves with the most accessible, easily readable diagrams for self-laying, especially if there is little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, in this case, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the furnace - these are its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and aesthetics is also important. appearance. And in order to choose the right furnace model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the right option.

How to choose the best oven option?

The choice of the installation site of the furnace

In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be properly installed, taking into account some nuances.

• First, it is decided what area can be allocated for installing the furnace.
• Then, you need to decide on a specific place:

- the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;

- built into the walls, between two or three rooms;

- is erected near the wall, with an indent from it of 250 ÷ 300 mm, if you need to heat only one room. However, it should be noted that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated back walls will not be fully utilized.

• Having chosen an approximate place, it must be immediately marked, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through attic floor between beams and rafters, and at a distance from them of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm.
• When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each of its sides.
• In order to avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation site, it is necessary to take into account not only the above recommendations, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.

Calculation of the required power and estimation of firewood consumption

The stove will not be efficient and will not be able to heat the house if its power is not enough for a specific area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of wall and floor insulation, ceiling height and many other conditions.

For example, the higher the ceiling, the more air will have to be heated, and the larger the glazing area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means that you will have to choose a furnace with increased power. Usually, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average level, calculations should be carried out by a specialist individually, based on specific characteristics Houses.

But in general, you can rely on average values. So, for well-insulated houses with ordinary glazing, with an area of ​​​​50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following heat output standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:

This value can be more accurately obtained from the local construction organization. And for fans of independent calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.

How to accurately calculate the required heat output?

Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require a different amount of thermal energy. The methodology for calculating the power of heating equipment is set out in a special publication of our portal dedicated to.

Having data for a particular region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated by the formula:

Wtotal \u003d S (m²) × Wsp (kW / m²)

For example, consider the power of the furnace for brick house, located in the Central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².

Wtotal = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW

Usually, furnace developers immediately indicate the thermal power of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It's not scary - they are easy to convert to watts and kilowatts:

In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:

10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour

Now you can calculate the profitability of the future stove, which largely depends, among other things, on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood-burning stoves do not have high efficiency. It is usually estimated at about 70%. If there is data on specific model furnace, then a specific value is substituted.

Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value - the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that in kilograms and tons it is usually estimated only bulk types fuel - coal or, and firewood, as a rule, is measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator, therefore, depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of the energy potential (from the mass and from the storage volume) of the main types solid fuel shown in the table.

The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much the generated power is lost. Naturally, one should still count on firewood that has passed the necessary drying cycle.

Preparing firewood is a serious matter!

In order for the stove to justify its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About that, about their main characteristics, rules for harvesting, drying and storage - in a special publication of our portal.

The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:

V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours

To calculate the volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.

Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly, and even for the entire proposed heating period - in order to have an idea of ​​​​the upcoming costs of purchasing or harvesting the required amount of firewood.

To facilitate self-calculation, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.