Large outdoor decorative vases for the interior are stylish element room decorations. Agree, crafts made of wooden circles look impressive?
We will create it with our own hands using small cuts of wood - round in cross section. We will not need whole trunks, only branches of approximately one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as a base on which we will attach small wooden parts.
Do-it-yourself materials for a wooden vase
As I already mentioned, we need saw cuts of tree branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more on its surface area.
We also need something that would serve as the basis of our crafts. They can be anything, even a simple tin can, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.
It would be better if the tin surface was not so visible, so it is possible to decorate it first, for example, with twine or paste over with paper. Despite the fact that this work is done too rough, the flowers in it look pretty cute.
If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or a broken one, it doesn’t matter, it just might come in handy for us. We will glue the broken one first. The surface and cracks on it will still not be visible - we will decorate it with a tree.
The simplest thing is to find a ready-made base for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way - to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mache vase, you can recycle a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very light and it will be better to make it a different shape, more stable.
Or mold from clay, and insert the usual one inside glass jar or a bottle so that the vase can be used not only as a decorative piece of furniture, but also for its intended purpose - to put flowers or twigs in it.
It is better to carefully clean the saw cuts with front side which will be visible to us. Notches and special irregularities should not be, we do not want to be scratched. Whether to remove the bark or not is your own business, how you like it or what effect you want to achieve.
Still cook good glue, we will glue these small circles.
Decorative vase - making
The wood can be stained or left as is, it's a matter of taste and personal preference. It would be nice to think about where the decorative vase will stand, in what interior. Under light furniture, it is better to leave saw cuts as they are, do not paint.
If the tones of the furniture are dark, then you can part wooden parts or all at once processed to give them a darker shade.
Here the color is left natural, natural, the texture of the tree is clearly visible - circles. I almost forgot - the saw cuts must all be of the same thickness, so that in the end the vase has a flat surface.
Now let's get down to work, actually creating our own design work - a decorative floor vase made of wood. We select the size and glue the saw cuts so that it is closed as much as possible most of basics.
Between the large ones we glue small pieces, like a mosaic. You can start wherever you like. But it's better, I think, to start with the flattest (least convex) part.
When everything is glued, you need to let the product dry well. Top decorative wooden surface can be varnished if desired.
This is what a floor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural natural material, gives the room warmth, creates style. Various beautiful twigs collected in the forest, or stems of dry plants will look good in it.
If inside there is a container such as a jar or bottle that does not let water through, then our vase can certainly be used for fresh bouquets.
By a similar principle, vases are made more simple shapes in the photo below. Wooden roundels can first be stained to give color. Or leave as is.
An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some types of wood have their own unique pattern on the cut, this adds originality.
Products from natural natural materials, in particular wood, purchased in Lately extraordinary popularity. On sale, you can peep some ideas, and then repeat it yourself for the interior of your own home.
It can be not only vases, but also others. small items decor, even entire walls, furniture.
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Examples of interior decoration when natural materials are also used. This time the decoration is made with the help of oblique cuts of stems of plants growing near water, in shallow water. These are the well-known reeds, cattail, as well as other types of marsh vegetation, calamus, rush. In the same way, you can make decorative animal figurines.
Another example of creating a vase from natural materials - branches, snags, as well as a small glass container. Very cute and easy to make at the same time. wooden crafts for the interior. The stick can not be processed at all, it is only necessary to drill several holes in it for a vessel with water and fastening the cords.
Very unusual unique vases can be made on lathe(who can, of course). I liked it very much, I could not pass by, so this post arose. Can be used both for its intended purpose and in decorative purposes for creating unique interior. The more interesting the structure and pattern of wood, the more flaws, irregularities, the better!
We decorate a vase in technology glass mosaic. The base is glass, the surface cladding too. Almost any non-embossed form will do as a basis, unless it is too small, such as a flask for a hanging vase. Inside the article there is another unusual method of decorating the interior - creating a decorative inner surface a wide wooden bowl due to mirrored mosaic tiles.
The history of wood processing on a lathe has more than 2 millennia. Progress does not stand still, the tools and the machine itself are improved. Instead of 2 people, as at the very beginning of the turning business, it is served by one master, and the rotation of the part is set using electricity. As before, wood is conducive to the creative process, which allows craftsmen to create original decor elements for the interior, souvenirs, wooden utensils, carved furniture and much more.
For the manufacture of do-it-yourself wooden cans for bulk products, cylindrical jewelry boxes, nesting dolls and other souvenirs, wood with different characteristics of density, fragility and moisture indicators is used. Before turning, it is necessary to calculate the load that the type of wood taken for work can withstand. In many ways, success in production will depend on this, especially if a sharp narrowing of a wooden part is expected, for example, for a carved thin leg. A small miscalculation with the pressure of the cutter on the workpiece, and you can start all over again.
On a lathe desktop machine With manual type processing, much depends on the skill of the master - the fidelity of his hand and the accuracy of the eye. Turning can be carried out both along and across the wood fibers. In the manufacture wooden utensils drawings are not required. The beauty of deep bowls often depends on the choice of wood. Coniferous trees have more even outgrowths of annual rings, which allows, with uniform turning on wood, when the center of the trunk is aligned with the axis of rotation, to create products with a pattern repeating in the period. hardwood depend on the aridity or humidity of the year, so the annual rings can vary greatly among themselves. True, for storing vegetables and fruits fresh, wooden containers made of them are less effective than coniferous ones due to the lower resin content.
In order for the container with the lid to close tightly, do not neglect the drawings. To make a whole set of identical containers with your own hands, the easiest way is to create a stencil based on the drawing and repeated verification of dimensions. You can work with a template only if there is a device for attaching cutters and a copier on the lathe. On such a machine with your own hands, you can not only create single products, but also put on stream the production of sets of wooden household utensils.
Turning such products as balusters for decorating the porch and stairs, building a gazebo, it is better to have a copier on the lathe - this is more reliable than relying on your own eye. No matter how skillful the master was and how well he did not use the cutter, it would not be possible to reproduce the previous product more reliably than using a copier. For masters who are fluent in the cutter, there are no barriers to creating multi-layer threads on a lathe with their own hands, which will become worthy decoration furniture - backs of chairs, headboards.
Turning paintings and faces of saints can be considered a separate type of art - masters are able to do this. high class, capable of thinking in volumes and creating multilayer copiers. It is less difficult in terms of transferring the intended pattern to a wooden blank using CNC machines. It will take a lot of time to produce a single product. Turning carved picture on a CNC machine differs from hand carving in the absence of physical effort on the part of the master. Unlike a person, the “hand” of the machine will not falter - all elements will be produced in accordance with the programmed program.
For playgrounds, even in cities, not metal playgrounds are increasingly being installed, but wooden ones. The tree gives a greater flight of fancy to the masters. When making swings for their children and grandchildren, many will remember horses on bent skids. On a home lathe, you can turn individual elements such a rocking toy, after which, using wood glue, assemble the toy together.
With your own hands, wood can be made on a conventional lathe with an additional mount - a faceplate, a carved box. Having chosen a suitable pattern or ornament, it must be transferred to flat blanks of the lid and walls with a pencil and carbon paper. Ornament cutting is carried out hand tool. Decorative carving on rounded or cylindrical boxes is also done with a hand tool, only the workpiece can be fastened in the spindle without clamping the tailstock, which will interfere with the application of vertical elements of the pattern to a horizontally fixed part on the machine.
The peculiarity of making souvenirs on a lathe is that first all actions are performed to create the outer and inner silhouettes of the product, a decorating carving is applied, only after that the finished item is separated from the total volume of the workpiece.
Vases can be a wonderful interior decoration. Some of them can even be made by hand. Vases can be decorated and transformed very quickly, even with your own hands. This will allow you to create more and more distinctive features in the interior.
1. Original vase filling
A great way to fill a vase with wine corks, with the help of which the vase is immediately transformed.
2. Lemon vase
A simple, but at the same time very bright option for decorating a vase with a lemon decor, which will be just a godsend.
3. Small bottle vases
A beautiful option to create many mini-vases with your own hands from ordinary bottles.
4. The vase is decorated with beads
It is possible to transform and decorate a vase with the help of beads, which will create a truly beautiful vase in a minimum of time and money.
5. Wooden vase decor
Nice design of the vase with the help of branches, which will give lightness and unobtrusiveness in the interior of any of the rooms.
6. Stylish and simple vases
Beautiful design of small vases that will decorate any home.
7. Vases decorated with cord
With the help of a thread or a cord, it is possible to create unforgettable vases that will become just an excellent solution for decoration.
8. Making a regular bottle
An excellent option to decorate an ordinary bottle in the form of a beautiful vase, which you will definitely like.
9. Bottle makeover
A cute solution to create beautiful vases from ordinary bottles that will be a godsend.
10. Decoration of vases with sparkles
An original solution for decorating vases with gold sequins.
11. Pretty sparkly vase
A great option to create an original and pretty shiny vase that will decorate any interior.
12. Vase decorated as a candlestick
One of the fastest and simple options, so this is the creation of a candlestick from a vase.
13. The perfect combination
If you combine several bottles of the same shape, then it is possible to get such a non-standard vase with cells.
14. Vase of tree branches
Cute and very interesting option create a vase from tree branches that will transform the interior of any room.
15. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase
An excellent and very interesting option for painting a bottle, which became a vase very quickly and simply.
16. Original tied bottles
Decorating bottles is a very interesting and difficult moment that should be taken into account and used to the maximum in practice.
17. Vase decor with pencils
The original option to decorate a vase with ordinary colored pencils, which will be a godsend for any interior.
18. Making bottles with thread
Nice idea to decorate ordinary bottles with the help of a thread, which will be just a discovery and will allow you to create original vases.
19. Decoration of an ordinary transparent vase
Quick and easy decoration of an ordinary vase, which will transform the interior in the shortest possible time.
20. Painting wine bottles
Decorating wine bottles with hand painting, which can be even more attractive than this.
21. Vase decor with wood
The original decoration of the flower vase with the help of wood, which looks charming and delicate.
22. Custom wire vases
Excellent and perhaps very original version create a wire vase that looks very interesting.
23. Excellent table decor
One of the best and easiest table decoration options is with a pretty vase that you will love.
24. Cute DIY vases
With your own hands, it is possible to decorate any of the vases in the most diverse way, which will definitely please and inspire.
25. Successful vase decor
A cute solution to ennoble an ordinary transparent vase with burlap and accessories.
26. Christmas vases
An interesting decoration of vases in the New Year's style, which will be just a highlight of any interior.
27. Original vase with transparent bottom
Cute and very interesting example decoration of a vase with a transparent bottom, which will become a feature of the interior.
All photos from the article
Wood is not only a material for the manufacture of beams, boards and other building elements, it is also room for creativity, since this material is processed quite easily, so everyone can try themselves as a sculptor. Artistic processing of wood allows you to get a real masterpiece even from a seemingly ordinary piece of wood.
Ways of artistic processing of wood
Turning is far from the only way to process wood.
In addition to it, one can distinguish:
- inlay - in this case, pieces of other wood are inserted into the wooden base, due to which a pattern is formed;
- pyrography - the usual wood burning. With careful work with a device with a thin sting, outstanding results can be achieved;
- turning - in order to make turned wood products, you will need a lathe and at least minimal skills in working with it;
- hand carving - you can’t do without the skills of working with cutters, with hard rocks wood is hard to work with experienced craftsmen. But handmade very much appreciated;
- also to ways artistic processing can be attributed . Often painting is combined, for example, with carving.
Note! Using a machine significantly increases the speed of work compared to, for example, manual carving. All turned products offered in retail are obtained just by processing the workpiece on the machine.
Turning on the machine can also be carried out using several technologies. For example, segment turning involves gluing a workpiece from separate fragments wood and its subsequent processing on the machine. Through the combination different breeds wood manages to achieve interesting effects.
As for the list of what can be made on a lathe, it is quite large. You can start with simple turned handles for tools (the same chisel), and finish with massive long products. Also, utensils and other useful little things in the household can be made from wood.
Types of turning
If we try to describe the process in a dry technical language, then we can say that the turning process is to get a part from the workpiece that has the shape of a body of revolution. Since in the case of wood, our goal is also to make this part look attractive, the aesthetic component is achieved by changing the diameter of the workpiece, combining different shapes, etc.
As for the classification, turning on a wood lathe can be divided into the following types:
- longitudinal - in this case, the workpiece rotates around its axis, and the cutter gradually moves towards it parallel to the axis of rotation;
- transverse - differs from the longitudinal one in that the cutter moves in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the workpiece;
- angular (tangential) - in this case, the cutter moves at an arbitrary angle to the axis of rotation.
Classification can also be given according to the purity of processing. So, during roughing, the tolerances are very large, but the speed of removing excess material is high. Finishing involves finishing the workpiece and removing a thin layer of material.
Subtleties of choice
If woodworking is just a pleasant hobby and you don’t have a whole workshop with a full arsenal of all tools at your disposal, then the choice of a machine is critical. There are a number of parameters, paying attention to which, the probability of an unsuccessful choice will decrease significantly.
What should you pay attention to when choosing
Most often, to satisfy the creative itch, very compact devices are purchased - desktop lathes. Of course, in terms of accuracy and engine power, they cannot be compared with powerful industrial counterparts, but the price of such devices is acceptable.
When choosing, attention should be paid to such parameters of the machine as:
- maximum allowable dimensions workpiece being processed. The documentation for the machine must indicate the turning diameter ( maximum size workpiece in the transverse direction) and the length of the bed (maximum allowable length blanks);
- power - roughly speaking, the more powerful the device, the better, but with increasing power, the dimensions of the machine also grow. So you need to find a middle ground;
- the material from which the bed is made, as well as the material of the frame. From the point of view of stability, models with a steel frame and a cast iron bed can be considered optimal. True, the weight of such machines is quite large, so if you plan to relocate it frequently, then it is better to choose a lighter model;
Note! Machines in which the bed and body are made of light alloys can be easily moved from place to place with their own hands without outside help. On the other hand, they are not as stable as steel ones.
- RPM adjustment range. All modern machines are able to regulate the speed, so pay attention to the upper and lower limits of this range. So, low speeds are suitable when you need to rough-cut the workpiece in the form of a parallelepiped, and high speeds will be used for finishing, when you need to get a smooth surface.
As for the device, the key elements of the lathe can be called:
- cutter holder - allows you to securely fix the cutter and move it in 2 directions during operation (along the workpiece and in the transverse direction);
- headstock - in conventional machines it is located on the left (if the turner is right-handed). It consists of such elements as a drive mechanism and a spindle, the center of which rotates during operation, causing the workpiece to rotate as well.
Note! Instead of a spindle, a faceplate can be installed at the end of the headstock - a device that is necessary in the case of an end value.
- tailstock - used to fix the second end of the workpiece, its end rotates freely, so that nothing will interfere with the rotation of the workpiece.
Second important condition safe work a finely grooved chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e. to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually done at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out
by using special device, which I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form a vase profile, you can also use a deeply grooved one with a less burrowing character, which I often do.
Photo 6 shows a fine scraping of a machined outer surface vase with wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is led at 45 ° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with a longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be done with the help of a joint chisel, as shown in photo 7. True, it has a very burrowing character and even poses a danger, since it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to grind almost everything, but only with a fractional arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with transverse turning, a chisel chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade is sharpened at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the handpiece of the electric grinder.
Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I carry out wet grinding of the product sandpaper grit R220. for which I dip the “skin” into a plate of water, and spray the surface with a sprayer. This polishing is preliminary. and in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the supporting ledge on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in the cartridge with the support of the product by the tailstock (photo 10) for a snug fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. Drilling is the next step. deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it has a large length, for reliability, I decided to additionally fix the neck in the lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.
Lunettes for small lathes are not for sale, you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (there are also two- and four-wheeled ones) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220mm, and the inline skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. As soon as I installed the lunette, I had to interrupt the work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap a vase with it (photo 12), otherwise the item made of wet apple wood (an extremely “crackling” breed) would certainly crack during my absence. By the way, I also wrap half-finished bowls of weak, heavily rotted wood with this film to prevent them from flying into pieces when boring the inner cavity. The vase I conceived was to become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and natural flowers. In the latter case, water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, such as a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside the vase (Photo 13).
I didn't find the right one long drill(such as a Lewis spiral or a feather with grooves for chip removal) for making a hole in the neck of a vase. I had to put a simple flat "perk" 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production set onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow the cartridge to be inserted into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the created device did not make it possible to fix it in a 10 mm cartridge conventional drill(9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the handpiece. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for convenience further use the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.
At the stage finishing bottom, i.e., removing dents from the cams of the cartridge and leveling the end, it was necessary to deploy an almost finished vase on the machine. Previously, I carved a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and backed the bottom with a crowned center, into which I inserted an additional home-made narrow nozzle. When later I turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the cartridge using small F-type cams, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.
Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom, when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The beating is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then it is necessary, tapping on the mark with a mallet, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the bottom is processed using a deep grooved or finely grooved chisel (photo 19)
After turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. Cracking in the air is almost inevitable, which is exacerbated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my raw wood products in one of two ways: either I put them in a kraft paper bag filled with wet shavings from the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and put on a shelf in shed. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry out in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.
Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thick part of the vase from the apple tree could not be avoided even after two months of drying in a kraft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. I had to close the cracks by gluing thin plates the same material, sawn on band saw and then processed with grinder Proxhop with a carbide blade and a Black&Decker electric file. The stickers were almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.
I must say that from the very beginning I had doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore the cavities in the bottom of the vases, but there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer, I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece, it is machined along the ledge. Having formed the outer profile of the lower part of the vase, you should immediately start boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the cartridge by the protrusion in place of the neck. Using a deep or finely grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to introduce one of the curved chisels - articulated, with a carbide nozzle or a nozzle cutter (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly controlled by a caliper.
At the end of the boring process, it is necessary to separately grind from the same wood material a plug of a suitable diameter and glue it into the hole of the protrusion (bottom). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity in such a way that the test tube, which will later rest on it, goes out by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, there will be an additional hassle with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.
That part of the glued plug that protrudes outward, I cut off on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.
If the vase has a different shape with a much wider mouth, then
a tag as a vessel with water will not work here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and carved a vase from it with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Further, in my stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microtorch, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to turn to gluing, first sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional fractional cut on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I heated the cut to a soft state. unfolded it flat, put it under a press, and after cooling the leveled piece of plastic with a compass, I applied a contour of a circle on it, which will play the role of a bottom in a vessel from a tube. Further, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought him
size according to the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using a Black & Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superglue "Master" based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had been keeping for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed vulgar to me, and I painted it with a brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the made vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of a chiseled vase with a live goldenrod branch can be seen in photo 24.
Finally, I would like to note that a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place inside the chiseled wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various types of wood according to the method described above.
DIY wooden vase - photo
Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a goat. Photo 2. Sharpening a peeling chisel on an electric grinder. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a peeling chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of a vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Fine scraping of the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support ledge with a thin cutting chisel.
Photo 10 Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing a vase with cling film. Photo 13. Glass tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.
Photo 16. Cork in the opening of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support faceplate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center on the bottom. Photo 19
