Chrysanthemums are delicate and surprisingly unpretentious autumn flowers that decorate the garden and delight the eye right up to the snow. Caring for chrysanthemums is simple - planting, watering, fertilizing, but there are some points you need to know so that your flowers show their brightest colors.
There are more than 650 varieties of chrysanthemums, which are divided into 13 groups according to the type and shape of the inflorescence. But, despite such an abundance of varieties, caring for them differs little.
Let's start by choosing a landing site. Chrysanthemums love warmth and bright sun. This does not mean that they will not bloom in partial shade, but the flowering will not be as lush and bright. In addition, these flowers are very sensitive to photoperiodism, that is, the alternation of dark night and light day is very important for them. Therefore, you should not plant them next to garden lanterns. The rhythm of the plant may be disrupted, and flowering may not occur.
The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose and moist, since the root system of these flowers is very branched, but is located close to the surface, and insufficient watering leads to the death of the roots, and hence the weakening of the plant. However, it’s not worth overfilling. The soil should be loosened carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Adult plants are fed throughout the season. For the first time in the spring, immediately after the appearance of the first leaves, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to increase the green mass and growth of stems, the second time - during the period of bud formation, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. You can add mullein from time to time if the soil is poor, but you shouldn’t get carried away. Amateur gardeners say that it is better to underfill manure than to overfill it. This good fertilizer, and is ideal for chrysanthemums, but get the concentration wrong and the plant will die.
Chrysanthemum propagation
Chrysanthemum does not throw out seeds well, but it shares its root shoots well. Usually these shoots are divided in April-May, when there is no danger of frost. At the same time, the adult plant is transplanted to a new location. More three years It is not recommended to keep the chrysanthemum in one place, otherwise it will weaken and bloom worse.
Reproduction by shoots
Dig up a bush, shake off the soil, and you will see many young shoots on the roots.
Using pruning shears or scissors, separate them from the parent plant, dig a small trench, fertilize it with peat and rotted manure, and plant these shoots in a row directly in the ground or in peat cups.
At first, it is better to shade the sprouts with cloth or dark film. Don't forget about regularly moistening the soil. When the sprouts have taken root well, you need to pinch, leaving 4 leaves on the sprout.
This is necessary for the growth of side shoots. When side shoots grow back, you need to pinch them.
You shouldn’t do more than two pinchings; you can overdo it, and the plant simply won’t have time to throw out buds and bloom.
Large bouquet chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems. At the same time, the side shoots are regularly plucked, leaving the straightest and strongest ones.
Ball chrysanthemum (multiflora) does not need pinching; nature itself and decades of work by breeders have already taken care of this. Reproduces ball chrysanthemum cuttings.
Propagation by cuttings
It happens that you were given a bouquet of incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums, and you want to plant exactly the same ones in your flower garden, but you don’t know the name of the variety. How can we be here? With chrysanthemums, everything is simple - wait until the flowers in the bouquet begin to fade, cut the stem into 10–12 cm cuttings, and place them in a jar of water.
To disinfect water, put activated carbon in a jar, 1 tablet of carbon per 0.5 liter of water. You can wait for the roots to appear in the jar or plant the cuttings in a peat mixture. To quickly form roots, you can use “Kornevin”. Although the chrysanthemum does not particularly need it, and under normal conditions the roots appear within two weeks.
Wintering
Chrysanthemums are frost-resistant plants, with the exception of greenhouse bouquet varieties, so if you have ordinary garden small-flowered chrysanthemums, there is no need to dig up the bushes for the winter. But still, they cannot be left as is; be sure to insulate the roots. After the last flower has faded, we cut off the stem with pruning shears, leaving stumps 10–15 centimeters above the ground, mulch the ground with peat and rotten leaves, and completely cover the plant with this mixture. The top can be covered with straw or spruce branches. Do not use film under any circumstances; the roots of the plant may simply rot and rot.
If you still decide to play it safe and not leave flowers in open ground, then take care of the place where you will store the bush in winter. This should be a dark room where the temperature will not exceed +4...+6 °C, with moderate humidity. Dig up a plant with a lump of earth, wrap the root with a damp cloth, place it in a box, and cover the top with the same cloth. Check on them regularly and make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
It can be very disappointing when you have been caring for a chrysanthemum all summer, waiting for autumn to enjoy its beauty, but cold autumn with night frosts breaks all hopes, and the buds remain unopened.
In this case, you need not to delay, but immediately dig up the bush, transplant it into a suitable pot and bring it into the house. Then the chrysanthemum blooms and throws out more and more flowers, and so on until the New Year.
But you need to stop in time and still give the plant a rest and gain strength for the next flowering. That is, cut off all the branches, cover it well and take it to an unheated room for “hibernation.”
Hello! Every year we have to spend a lot of effort planting spherical chrysanthemums on country flower beds. They say she can survive the winter? If so, then tell us more about this amazing flower, like the globular chrysanthemum - wintering in open ground, preparation, etc.
Chrysanthemum – favorite plant many summer residents. Because of her beauty, they are willing to spend a lot of time and effort. And, indeed, chrysanthemum can overwinter in open ground. Depending on the variety, they easily tolerate wintering not only in the south, but also in the central zone of our country. Of course, in order for a plant like the globular chrysanthemum to winter in the open ground without consequences, you need to prepare accordingly.
Preparing for winter
With the arrival of autumn, chrysanthemum flowers fall and leaves wither. This means it’s time to make sure that your favorite flower easily survives the winter.
To do this, the bushes are pruned to a height of about 10-12 centimeters. It is advisable to use sharp pruning shears for this - the stems are quite delicate and easily damaged. A dull pruner will chew them rather than cut them.
In the southern regions of the country, where frosts do not occur, this is quite enough. If you are growing in the middle zone, you need to take care that the first frosts do not kill the stems and roots. To do this, the chrysanthemum is covered with spruce branches or a thick layer of sawdust. The first option is more convenient - you will not need to remove sawdust in the spring. But the second one is more accessible - not everyone has the opportunity to stock up on the required amount of spruce branches.
If the winters in the region are very frosty and with little snow, then the only way out is to transplant them into flowerpots and store them in a basement or cellar with subsequent planting.
Spring work
In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and it becomes warm enough, you should remove the spruce branches from the chrysanthemum or remove the sawdust. Excess moisture must go away so that young shoots are not affected by rot and mold. But if the nights are cold, the cuttings should be covered with rags in the evenings. 
In general, it is not advisable to grow one chrysanthemum bush for more than two years in a row - there are fewer flowers, and the bush itself disintegrates. Therefore, at the end of the second season, the bush should be divided into cuttings and planted. Then the flowerbed will delight you with its beauty for many years to come.
The video will tell you in detail about wintering chrysanthemums:
Chrysanthemums are delicate and surprisingly unpretentious autumn flowers that decorate the garden and delight the eye right up to the snow. Caring for chrysanthemums is simple - planting, watering, fertilizing, but there are some points you need to know so that your flowers show their brightest colors.
There are more than 650 varieties of chrysanthemums, which are divided into 13 groups according to the type and shape of the inflorescence. But, despite such an abundance of varieties, caring for them differs little.
Let's start by choosing a landing site. Chrysanthemums love warmth and bright sun. This does not mean that they will not bloom in partial shade, but the flowering will not be as lush and bright. In addition, these flowers are very sensitive to photoperiodism, that is, the alternation of dark night and light day is very important for them. Therefore, you should not plant them next to garden lanterns. The rhythm of the plant may be disrupted, and flowering may not occur.
The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose and moist, since the root system of these flowers is very branched, but is located close to the surface, and insufficient watering leads to the death of the roots, and hence the weakening of the plant. However, it’s not worth overfilling. The soil should be loosened carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Adult plants are fed throughout the season. For the first time in the spring, immediately after the appearance of the first leaves, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to increase the green mass and growth of stems, the second time - during the period of bud formation, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. You can add mullein from time to time if the soil is poor, but you shouldn’t get carried away. Amateur gardeners say that it is better to underfill manure than to overfill it. This is a good fertilizer and is ideal for chrysanthemums, but get the concentration wrong and the plant will die.
Chrysanthemum propagation
Chrysanthemum does not throw out seeds well, but it shares its root shoots well. Usually these shoots are divided in April-May, when there is no danger of frost. At the same time, the adult plant is transplanted to a new location. It is not recommended to keep the chrysanthemum in one place for more than three years, otherwise it will weaken and bloom worse.
Reproduction by shoots
Dig up a bush, shake off the soil, and you will see many young shoots on the roots.
Using pruning shears or scissors, separate them from the parent plant, dig a small trench, fertilize it with peat and rotted manure, and plant these shoots in a row directly in the ground or in peat cups.
At first, it is better to shade the sprouts with cloth or dark film. Don't forget about regularly moistening the soil. When the sprouts have taken root well, you need to pinch, leaving 4 leaves on the sprout.
This is necessary for the growth of side shoots. When the side shoots grow, you need to pinch them.
You shouldn’t do more than two pinchings; you can overdo it, and the plant simply won’t have time to throw out buds and bloom.
Large bouquet chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems. At the same time, the side shoots are regularly plucked, leaving the straightest and strongest ones.
Ball chrysanthemum (multiflora) does not need pinching; nature itself and decades of work by breeders have already taken care of this. Ball chrysanthemum is propagated by cuttings.
Propagation by cuttings
It happens that you were given a bouquet of incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums, and you want to plant exactly the same ones in your flower garden, but you don’t know the name of the variety. How can we be here? With chrysanthemums, everything is simple - wait until the flowers in the bouquet begin to fade, cut the stem into 10-12 cm cuttings, and place them in a jar of water.
To disinfect water, put activated carbon in a jar, 1 tablet of carbon per 0.5 liter of water. You can wait for the roots to appear in the jar or plant the cuttings in a peat mixture. To quickly form roots, you can use “Kornevin”. Although the chrysanthemum does not particularly need it, and under normal conditions the roots appear within two weeks.
Wintering
Chrysanthemums are frost-resistant plants, with the exception of greenhouse bouquet varieties, so if you have ordinary garden small-flowered chrysanthemums, there is no need to dig up the bushes for the winter. But still, they cannot be left as is; be sure to insulate the roots. After the last flower has faded, we cut off the stem with pruning shears, leaving stumps 10-15 centimeters above the ground, mulch the ground with peat and rotten leaves, and completely cover the plant with this mixture. The top can be covered with straw or spruce branches. Do not use film under any circumstances; the roots of the plant may simply rot and rot.
If you still decide to play it safe and not leave flowers in the open ground, then take care of the place where you will store the bush in the winter. This should be a dark room where the temperature will not exceed +4...+6 °C, with moderate humidity. Dig up a plant with a lump of earth, wrap the root with a damp cloth, place it in a box, and cover the top with the same cloth. Check on them regularly and make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
It can be very disappointing when you have been caring for a chrysanthemum all summer, waiting for autumn to enjoy its beauty, but cold autumn with night frosts breaks all hopes, and the buds remain unopened.
In this case, you need not to delay, but immediately dig up the bush, transplant it into a suitable pot and bring it into the house. Then the chrysanthemum blooms and throws out more and more flowers, and so on until the New Year.
But you need to stop in time and still give the plant a rest and gain strength for the next flowering. That is, cut off all the branches, cover it well and take it to an unheated room for “hibernation.”
To decorate the area, choose low, small-flowered chrysanthemums. Be sure to ask the seller what size the flowers you have chosen will grow to and what their flowering period is. It is better to use for flower garden decoration korean chrysanthemums. They begin to bloom in July, and with regular removal of faded flowers, their flowering can be extended up to 4 months.
What can you combine chrysanthemums with? Yes, with anything, they are unpretentious and will withstand any neighborhood. However, they are good on their own, and to emphasize this beauty, evergreen junipers, ornamental cabbage, or even simple lawn grass. No matter what you plant chrysanthemums with, they will not get lost and will not go unnoticed. After all, chrysanthemum is the queen among flowers.
Gardening is a surprisingly fun and aesthetically pleasing activity. By growing beautiful ones, you not only decorate your garden plot, but also develop your creative thinking.
Special place on the list the most beautiful plants for the garden is occupied by the globular chrysanthemum. Beginners are literally speechless when they see its perfectly round shape and luxurious, rich colors. Despite the relatively small sizes(the height of the bush rarely reaches 50 cm), it is simply stunningly beautiful.
Why are these flowers so popular among gardeners?
But these flowers won the hearts of gardeners not only with their fabulous appearance:
- Unlike other varieties, they often bloom even at the end of August, delighting flower growers throughout the fall.
- Thanks to their unique genetic properties and constant selection, they do not require any pruning or shaping at all: the bush acquires a spherical shape completely independently. But some experts say that it is more useful to pinch the tops when about four pairs of leaves appear on them. However, in 90% of cases this event is not necessary, since the spherical chrysanthemum will acquire the necessary shape without your intervention.
- In addition to the vegetable garden and garden, the bushes of this amazing plant they feel great even on the windowsill, being planted in flower pots. In a word, they can become a real decoration of the area everywhere, attracting admiring glances.
The only obstacle for beginners may be their wintering, which requires certain conditions and care.
Growing and care
Of course, such beauty needs some care. There is no need to be scared: these plants are nothing fantastic. However, this is not at all a fact that the rules of their agricultural technology should be strictly followed. This is how you will achieve the most impressive results.
Where and how to plant
The most difficult thing is to choose a site: in the garden, the globular chrysanthemum should be planted in a fairly sunny place with good and loose soil in which stagnation will not occur.
Seedlings should be planted as early as possible, since this is the condition for their rapid growth and early flowering. In the middle zone the most optimal time disembarkation is early May (provided the weather is warm enough). If there is a possibility of frost, the bushes should be covered with cut plastic bottles.
It is best when you have the opportunity to add special fertilizers for chrysanthemums to the planting holes. Be sure to fertilize during the bud setting phase.
To do this, choose fertilizers containing mainly phosphorus and potassium (you can use banal superphosphate). For lovers of organic farming, we can recommend a simple infusion of ash.
Watering
In general, growing spherical chrysanthemums largely depends on the weather in the current year. Watering is especially dependent on this factor (which is not surprising). So, if the summer turns out to be dry, then the bushes will have to be irrigated every day, while during the rainy period they do not need watering at all.
The soil near the roots should always be moderately moist, but constant dampness and stagnation of water should not be allowed under any circumstances.
Some notes
If we talk about the southern regions, where the globular chrysanthemum can easily overwinter in the ground, then allowing it to grow in one place for more than two seasons is strictly not recommended: the plants degenerate and lose their unique round shape. That is, every two years they will still have to be removed from the ground, divided and replanted.
Reproduction
We have already said that even the most inexperienced gardeners can easily cope with the demands that spherical chrysanthemums can make. Reproduction is no exception.
Back in April, the plants should be removed from the basement (where they should be stored in winter), sprayed with water and wait for germination to begin. When the first young buds begin to bloom on the bushes, you can begin to separate them. This approach is good because reproduction is combined with bush rejuvenation.
It is all the more important to do this because old plants practically lose their decorative properties(we already wrote about this above). Even if only one bud sprouts on the cut-off part, it will turn into a full-fledged plant, the beauty of which will delight you in just a few months.
Immediately after dividing, young bushes should be planted in the ground or in pots. The latter is done if you want to have stunning beautiful indoor flowers (we also mentioned this).
Note that the spherical chrysanthemum, a photo of which is in the article, is easily propagated by cuttings. It’s annoyingly simple: after cutting, place the cutting in a glass of water and wait for the roots to appear. You can even plant it in the ground right away, taking care to lightly shade this area from direct sunlight.
A little about the “Koreans”
Despite the general unpretentiousness of this variety of flowering plants, even among them there are varieties that are especially suitable for cultivation in our conditions. These are spherical Korean chrysanthemums.
This variety is a hybrid. It is divided into several types at once. The first group includes border varieties, the height of which does not exceed 30 cm. They are ideal for decoration personal plot, since they are very different early dates flowering, almost complete absence of root shoots and the most spherical shape of the bush.
The second type is medium-sized chrysanthemums, the height of which reaches about 50 cm. They are extremely decorative, since among the plants of this group there are varieties with extremely varied colors of inflorescences.
They are great for creating a variety of group compositions. Unlike the first group, they can be used for cutting. In addition, they can easily be cultivated as indoor plants.
The third group includes all tall varieties. They are distinguished by late flowering and large inflorescence size. Perfect for decorating large areas. Despite its impressive size, the bush is quite compact.
"Multiflora"
This variety is not so resistant to frost, but it also has its own advantages. These chrysanthemums belong to medium-sized varieties, rarely reaching 50 cm. Because of this, they can be recommended for decorating flower beds and even cultivation at home.
In general, spherical chrysanthemums “Multiflora” are distinguished by a chic choice of colors and a relatively quick growing season (in other words, they bloom quickly). In addition, “Multiflora” has the most regular spherical shape, so these plants can be safely recommended for creating complex
Wintering
We have already said more than once that this particular stage can present certain difficulties to novice gardeners. This is true, but if you follow the simplest rules and are attentive, there is nothing wrong with this.
We have already mentioned that wintering in open ground conditions is allowed only in the southern regions. Even in Ukraine it will be necessary to arrange basic shelters to protect plants from possible frosts.
In the conditions of the domestic middle zone and it is absolutely necessary to dig up faded bushes in October, without waiting for the onset of persistent cold weather. The roots should be stored in wooden boxes, covered with earth. The room temperature should not exceed five degrees, so a basement or insulated cellar is optimal.
Particular attention should be paid to the soil moisture in the boxes: it should be slightly damp, but not soggy. In general, it is best to try to support natural humidity substrate, since the spherical chrysanthemum, the wintering of which we describe, in this case survives the cold period better.
Even if you cultivate these flowers indoors, in the fall they also need to be trimmed and stored in the basement. For them, dry and warm air city apartments.
Important! In the basement or cellar where you store plants during the winter, under no circumstances should there be fungus or mold. To avoid their occurrence, it is imperative to establish a high-quality ventilation system.
If there are traces of fungus on the walls or floor, it must be scraped off and the area treated with a saturated solution. copper sulfate. If you don’t have it, you can use used machine oil, which also gives good results.
All the secrets of the globular chrysanthemum; its cultivation and care will not take much time and effort. These wonderful plants bloom early, they are unpretentious and give your garden unusual look.
Chrysanthemum globulus or Chrysanthemum Multiflora is a relatively recently bred hybrid. Its height is about 50 cm and amazes observers with its bizarre shape. The fact is that the inflorescences take the shape of a regular ball and require almost no pruning. The foliage is not visible at all, which means wonderful flowers will appear in your garden. flower balls. In addition, they are unpretentious in care and can please the eye for 3 whole months: from August to October.
Varieties of chrysanthemums
There are several types of plants. The fact that there are several varieties in growth and flowering periods is why they remain so popular. There are low-growing, medium-growing and tall-growing chrysanthemums. The first reach about 20-30 cm in height, the second 30-40, and the last 60-70 cm. The most common are medium-sized plants due to their moderate flowering and the ability to plant in absolutely different places. But undersized ones can decorate the garden, flower beds, loggia, rooms and any room.
Multiflora chrysanthemums are also distinguished according to their flowering period. Early flowering chrysanthemums bloom in August, mid-blooming ones in September, and late flowering chrysanthemums in late September and October. At correct selection various types you can provide yourself all the time blooming flower bed from summer until the onset of cold weather.
Growing chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums can be grown both in pots and in open ground. If you decide to plant this plant, then it is worth remembering a few important features multiflora chrysanthemums for planting and care:
- First of all, lighting is important. If the bush is planted in a sunny area, this can prevent late and short-lived flowering, and also protect against the growth of long shoots.
- The soil should be mixed with compost or humus to improve its fertility. It should be light and loose. But you shouldn’t overdo it - chrysanthemums can grow a lot and bloom a little.
- The Multiflora chrysanthemum should be planted on cloudy, non-sunny days, in the summer - in the early morning or evening. The dug hole is first watered well, then drainage is placed, and then soil. It is not worth planting the chrysanthemum too deeply, since its root system is superficial; a hole of approximately 40 cm will be sufficient.
- After planting, the plant is pinched. His growth point is removed. The second pinching is done after 20 days, the shoot and a couple of nodes are removed. Some argue that the shape of the ball in the plant is genetically determined, so pinching needs to be done only once, and the chrysanthemum will take on its own the required form. Here each gardener decides for himself, but it is worth remembering that additional pinching does not harm the plant. In the first days, the globular chrysanthemum needs shelter from the sun. Non-woven fabrics are used that will not touch the leaves of the plant.
Chrysanthemum care
In addition to pinching and slight shading, chrysanthemums require additional care. Flowers are not very whimsical and finicky, but if you care for them properly, you can improve the flowering period.
The soil needs fertilizer. This is best done in the spring, during the growing season. Humus or mullein work well. But during the formation of buds, superphosphate is useful in a proportion of 50 g per 1 m². This is necessary for longer and stronger flowering.
Multiflora needs to be watered often, as it loves moisture very much. On dry days, make sure the soil is moist and does not dry out. For watering it is better to use settled or rainwater with a few drops of ammonia for softness.
Chrysanthemums can suffer the most from caterpillars. Therefore, please pay attention to the relevant chemicals and spray periodically to prevent caterpillar infestations.
If you find blackened leaves or bare stems on a bush, this means that the plant’s soil is overly moist and the bush itself has too many inflorescences. All this is a sign of illness " powdery mildew" When you first detect this disease, you should immediately take the following steps:
- Trim off damaged stems and foliage.
- Get rid of the top soil, where the spores of the fungus that harm the plant are located, and replace it with new one.
- Spray the flowers with a copper-soap solution. To do this, you need to dilute 10 g of copper sulfate in 250 ml of water and add to 10 l warm water, where 100 g of soap were diluted in advance. This solution is enough for 5-6 sprayings with a break of 7 days.
The plant may get burned if left outside for a long time. high temperatures. You can recognize it if you notice yellowish or brown leaves, which began to dry out. Such a sheet should be removed immediately. To protect chrysanthemums from root rot, you should add Fitosporin to the water for irrigation. You can water with this water for preventive purposes or in courses.
Storing chrysanthemums in winter
If you have spherical chrysanthemums, then how to preserve them in winter is the only thing that requires increased attention and effort. If many varieties of chrysanthemums can safely winter in open ground, Microflora is not capable of this. It can withstand winter only in a warm southern climate, where the temperature does not drop much below 0. In most regions of Russia, they need to be dug up in the fall before the onset of severe frosts. And in order for them to stand and please the eye longer, they need to be covered with polyethylene in the evening, especially if low temperatures are expected at night.
Digging up chrysanthemums should begin before a strong cold snap, when the upper part has dried out, which means that the bush has retired. To do this, you first need to cut off its stems and place the roots in a box with soil, sawdust or sand. Such boxes are stored in dark places with a recommended temperature of -3 to +5 C. Cellars are suitable, but if there are none, then the space in refrigerators reserved for vegetables will do. The soil should not be too wet or dry. At the end of April, the plant awakens when it is exposed to the sun and warmth without any shelter. And if the soil warms up, then you can safely plant it again.
Even if plants are grown indoors and cultivated indoors, they also need additional winter care. The dry air of apartments will be detrimental to chrysanthemums, so they also need to be cut off and placed in the basement. But make sure that it is free of fungi and mold. Check the ventilation and air ducts in advance, and if there are traces of fungus on the floor or any surface, they need to be removed, and the area should be washed with a solution of copper sulfate or already used machine oil to prevent the death of flowers.
Plant propagation
The best way propagation of spherical chrysanthemums is propagation by dividing the rhizomes, because they do not retain varietal characteristics when planted with seeds. After a few years, the plant has dense shoots and stops developing, which means it loses its decorative effect. This means it's time to update it. The right time for this is spring, when the bush is ready for planting. To do this, you need to divide the emerging leaves into several identical parts. Immediately sprinkle the cut area with ash to avoid contaminating the chrysanthemum.
And if you need several shoots at once, then cuttings are suitable for this. Before the plant begins to bloom, it is necessary to cut off the densest branches and place them in settled water or wet sand. After a few days, such cuttings form new roots and can be transplanted into fertile soil. This is how Multiflora reproduces well. It can be replanted in summer and early autumn. It is only important to give it time to take root in the soil before the first temperature changes. Or immediately prepare plants in the house in special flowerpots or pots.
Benefits of spherical chrysanthemum
Multiflora are a favorite plant of many gardeners for many reasons. It is used in many areas of gardening and landscape design due to the relative ease of care and unpretentiousness. But in addition, they are very easily combined with various colors and look advantageous in almost any flower bed. But it’s still worth remembering that tall chrysanthemums will look better with neighbors of the same size, and low-growing ones with smaller plants. But every flowerbed is a place for experimentation! Confident gardeners can try planting lines of chrysanthemums one behind the other, pushing smaller species forward, or experimenting with shades to create gradients.
Multiflora with evergreen trees looks advantageous. The rounded ball seems to smooth out the shapes thorny plants, gives unique liveliness and makes the look more interesting.
Low growing chrysanthemums can be used when delineating the boundaries of a certain area, beds, roads or borders. But as for the color of plants, of which there are about 4000, this is where imagination and the desire to transform the site come into play. Compositions of bright green grass and white or yellow shades. Do not be afraid of the neighborhood and different types of flowers - bright chrysanthemums will go well with any of the plants planted.
And in autumn period you will be delighted by the late-blooming multiflora of rich scarlet, pink flowers. When most species have already bloomed and are about to spend the winter, the riot of colors of such chrysanthemums will not go unnoticed.
If you use them for flowering on the balcony, as home flower, then perhaps not every bush will bloom so vigorously due to the small space allotted to it.
As you can see, caring for chrysanthemums is not such a costly or complicated matter. You just have to adhere to the main rules and not forget some nuances - and your garden or balcony will be provided with beautiful and long-lasting flowering of a delightful flower.
