The market offers a large number of materials to create high beds with their own hands in the country. In this way, various vegetable crops are grown annually, receiving abundant harvests. For example, the advantages of high pallet fences are convenience and order. Plastic beds also have certain advantages. However, tall buildings take up a lot of space, which is considered their disadvantage.
Beautiful tall vegetable gardens
The presence of fertile land in sufficient quantities is suitable for the creation of greenhouse facilities. It is better to arrange a high garden with your own hands in this way according to the requirements:
- The right choice of place for the garden.
- Determining the size of the area.
- Making a frame from improvised materials.
- Filling the fence with fertile soil mixture.
- Availability protective coating structures.
- Periodic harvest.
Board option
Beautiful fences are suitable for early sowing different varieties and plant species. They have several benefits:
- Suitable for any well lit area suburban area, including areas with rocky or;
- warming up the contents of the box intensively occurs in the spring;
convenient watering; - weather protection and mulch preservation;
- the presence of a drainage layer eliminates the stagnation of moisture;
- digging and weeding large areas is no longer required;
- use sand or gravel to backfill paths between rows.
wooden box
It is recommended to create high beds in the country with your own hands in order to solve a number of problems associated with slow development vegetable crops. Fences create individual conditions growing seedlings when choosing the most suitable soil mixture. It is important to ensure constant watering of the beds so that moisture does not evaporate quickly.
Fencing materials
In the manufacture of the box, logs, bricks, corrugated board or stone are used. If you build it from pallets with your own hands, red or cedar wood, then this will increase the life of the structure. The bottom inside it is usually covered with plastic or that protects against rodents.
The device of high beds does not require the use of expensive devices. For example, having made a box with your own hands, it is better to stretch a polyethylene film over it. Pre-install arcs made of metal or. The greenhouse should have dimensions corresponding to the dimensions of the beds made of brick, wood, blocks or stone. This will protect the seedlings from frost, extend the harvest period.
When is the best time to plant and what to plant
Autumn or late summer are more suitable periods for creating raised beds with your own hands. If you start working in the spring, during this period the impact of emerging processes on the development of seedlings is very weak and imperceptible.
Fences created in the spring are best filled a month before planting seedlings.
Such gardens will decorate the yard
To fill the high beds in the country with your own hands, the photos of which are presented below, the autumn period is most suitable.
It is when the development of internal processes continues in the earth. The layers that have rotted over the summer in the box provide the root system of plants with the receipt of useful elements in the optimal volume.
Plant alternation
Seedlings are usually planted immediately after the construction of structures. After harvesting ripe vegetable crops, they begin to alternate them annually with healthy herbs, for example, parsley, dill. This allows you to get abundant harvests every year.
Excellent strawberry garden
The internal decomposition process will prevent strawberries from freezing during severe frosts. This is possible if high beds for strawberries are covered with snow or special material in winter. When planting plants in a warm bed, it is convenient to grow them in it due to the least evaporation of moisture.
Raised bed for cucumbers and tomatoes
A bed for cucumbers or a tomato is built according to a principle reminiscent of the method of arranging a growing fence. The only difference is the need to install supports with crossbars along the edges, providing a garter of crops. Each cucumber lash, tied with a wire stretched between, gives a bountiful harvest.
Most appropriate place in the country they often equip several boxes. By doing them on the lawn, they leave a place for working with a lawn mower. Be sure to provide a certain distance between the rows for the delivery of fertile soil, mulch or fertilizer in special wheelbarrows.
Box preparation
Processing of wood material
The boards are cut according to the dimensions of the frame. Substances hazardous to human health should not penetrate the soil, therefore, processed wooden elements covered with foil. Then the processing is carried out in stages. This requires:
- Saw the timber into pieces of 50 cm.
- Saturate with a protective compound.
- Dry the material.
Various site locations
The earth is dug up simultaneously with fine grass to increase the permeability of the soil. In the presence of sufficiently dense earth, it is possible to remove the turf, taking into account the markings. The advantage of laying out the box from the boards is that it does not require the removal of too much soil.
Do-it-yourself frame installation
Construction device
The markings made before creating the fence allow you to build a perfectly flat structure. When installing, check the dimensions of all components of the box. The frame is made correctly if the diagonals of opposite corners are the same.
A step-by-step instruction that allows you to create high beds with your own hands involves several main steps:
- Move the frame to the marked area.
- Align shields according to markings.
- Make recesses for supports.
- Check the accuracy of the installation of shields by level.
- Remove excess soil or place pegs.
- After finishing the manufacture of high beds, fertile soil is poured into each of them.
Compost preparation
Mulching the soil causes more intensive evaporation of moisture. Do not leave gaps in compacted soil.
Filling the beds
Before filling, the bottom of the structure is covered, which is nailed along the edges of each wall. will protect plants from rodents. The laid layer of geotextile will prevent the germination of weeds in the soil.
Fill scheme
Step by step instructions include the following steps:
- Fill geotextiles with dry twigs, bark, large sawdust, shavings, leaves.
- Lay out layers of compost, bird droppings.
- Cover organics with grass, fallen leaves or bark.
- Contribute required amount mineral fertilizers.
- Lay fertile soil.
The thickness of the created layers is usually 10 cm, they are not mixed together. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. Creating a fertile layer involves the use of:
- tops;
- sawdust;
- peat;
- wood ash;
- green manure;
- rotted manure;
- bird droppings, etc.
The video shows how to make a high garden bed.
If the beds in the greenhouse with their own hands are created from a fertile soil mixture, this significantly increases the yield. For compaction, they need to be poured with plenty of water several times.
If the composition of the earth is not fertile, then purchased soil is suitable, which is shed with large amounts of water. Then they wait two days, during which the layers can settle. The compacted fertile soil from above must be covered with black agrofibre together with the frame. This will warm it up to the greatest extent and prevent the germination of weeds.
IN Lately amateur gardeners have become popular with the so-called “high beds”, which are more convenient to work with than ordinary ones.
Gardeners who have just started developing their plots should be interested in the idea of a high bed. An already landscaped plot will not lose from such a bed, besides, the harvest from such beds will pleasantly surprise you.
How to make warm, high and comfortable beds on the site?
What are "high beds"?
These are boxes without a bottom, 7-11 m long, 1.3 m wide, 0.7-0.8 m high, and 0.4-0.5 m deep below ground level. This bed height (table height) allows the elderly and physically weak people without much effort to perform work on planting and caring for them.
The deepening of the beds below ground level by 40-50 cm is necessary in order to lay walls through which rats, mice, and moles will not penetrate into the garden.
You can build a bed along the wall of the house, but not on the north side, its width in this case should not exceed 80 cm (the length of an outstretched arm). If the cornice of the roof of the house delays rain water, this option of the bed is no longer available.
Oval-shaped and even round beds are possible (Fig. 1.2). They are built from flexible wavy sheets, and fastened inside with wire.
If possible, the direction of the beds is chosen from north to south. If the direction of the bed is from east to west, then the plants should be placed so that tall types of vegetable crops, such as peas, are located on the north side of the bed.
Building material for high beds
A high bed is a structure that should last for more than a dozen years. This must be taken into account when making a decision on construction. The most important building elements are the walls. What material should they be? More than others, such properties as frost resistance, resistance to decay, corrosion resistance and relative strength are important. Some amateur gardeners solve the problem by buying on occasion. cheap material, for example, what is left of a broken house, and most often destined for a landfill.
As the saying goes, "everything in the household will come in handy." It can be wood (Photo.1), hollow blocks, porous or simply old brick(Photo. 2). And, finally, the most suitable building materials are sheets, the use of which for the construction of beds saves working time.
These are, first of all, wavy sheets (Photo. 3) usually 2 × 1 m in size, made from the very different material(for us it can be slate). The advantage of sheets is their stability and strength, provided by "waves" that evenly distribute external load. Even the thinnest corrugated slabs are suitable for building the walls of a high bed.
Laying a high bed
Organic material for filling the beds is prepared in advance, several months before the planned construction. A pile of branches, twigs, and round timber gives the impression of a huge mass, but after crushing and tamping, this pile turns into a modest pile. Hence the rule, confirmed by experience: to prepare twice as much material for stuffing as it seems sufficient at first glance. And since the need for organic material for a high bed is very large, you need to use those wastes that can become compost.
From wood material trunks, twigs and branches, construction timber waste, sawdust, shavings are used for the construction of the beds. Pieces of plywood are less suitable, as they contain chemical glue. And if you still use them, then only as a "volumetric filling", and their place is at the very bottom, at the bottom of the pit.
Suitable material is old newspapers. Newsprint, made from wood pulp, decays quickly and is readily eaten by earthworms. The same can be said about cardboard if it does not have a photo or color print on it. As a filler, to increase the amount of arable land per 10 meter bed, 2 m 2 of clay or sand is required (Fig. 3).
Building and filling a high bed
In the future, the spirit level can be abandoned. To do this, you need to find two fixed points on the front wall, and hammer two pegs on the opposite side, to which you can attach the cord.
A new stage of work - filling the beds
It must begin from the bottom, with the most voluminous material: tree trunks, boards, logs, stumps, stacks of newspapers can be laid between them. The larger the stuffing material, the deeper it needs to be laid.
Chumps and stumps, located below all and receiving less air, form a kind of "reserve" for soil microorganisms, thanks to which they remain active even in winter.
Filler clay is mixed with arable land, and sand is buried in the middle layers of the beds, where it serves as an air-conducting material.
Then there are uncut branches that are trampled down with their feet. Sub-arable soil taken from the next section of the garden is thrown on them.
Then again a layer of branches criss-crossed, this time chopped.
This layer is covered with the remaining subsoil and further - in the same order to the end of the bed, until another front wall is set.
At this stage, it is already possible, without fear of being with your feet in the water, to pour the loosened subarable land from the hose so that in places there is a swim. And in the future, the bed will be moistened not only through watering from above, but also due to the capillary rise of moisture from below.
There is no need to be afraid of compacting the beds from flooding, which is harmful to plants. This "care" is taken over by brushwood, branches and twigs. Thanks to their cruciform position, thousands of small depressions-chambers filled with air and so important for the functioning of the bed appear in a layer of almost a meter.
Now you can continue filling the beds: sticks the size of a hammer handle, finely chopped shrubs and to them again a shovel of arable land from a pile lying to the side, then newspapers, but now not a whole pile, but expanded and pre-moistened.
As the amount of stuffing increases, more and more arable land is required for backfilling. With surprise, we suddenly discover that our “creation” is even more insatiable than one could imagine. Instead of earth, if it is over, you can pour sand and lay cobblestones.
When the stuffing level reaches 30 cm, counting from above, the stretching begins. In two holes drilled through the bulges of the sheet on the opposite walls of the beds, a steel wire is threaded, both ends are connected and twisted with a screwdriver until then (Fig. 4). until the wire loop is stretched, while it is necessary to catch in time the moment when the tension of the opposite walls stops.
The benefits of a raised bed
Due to the fact that seasonal bacteria create an initial strong heating of the bed above (40 ° C), and the subsequent temperature is kept constantly (2 ° C) above the surrounding ground temperature, vegetables grow faster than flat bed. The increased temperature is explained by the fact that the overheating of the organic material of the beds occurs slowly in places, faster in others, and not immediately, as in ordinary plots.
- Chumps, stumps and other coarse material located at the bottom, at the lowest point of the stuffing, and poorly supplied with air, perepere more slowly. And it is here that anaerobic microorganisms are most active - a constant source of heat, albeit a moderate one.
- The second reason for the somewhat elevated temperature of the bed is the insulating effect of the air chambers that have arisen during stuffing.
- And, thirdly, the increased temperature of the beds is the result of the dark color of the wavy slabs. The increased temperature of the earth accelerates the germination of seeds and the ripening of vegetables, except in those cases when prolonged unfavorable weather (cold, rains) nullifies these advantages.
The high bed creates optimal conditions for growing spinach, lettuce, green asparagus, strawberries, kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, celery, tomatoes, leeks, carrots, mushrooms, tuberous fennel and other crops (Fig. 6). You can, of course, grow flowers, but not those that are "lazy" to bloom on oily, nutrient-rich soil.
If we proceed from the fact that a high bed is a bed for 10 years, then we can count on a constant increase in the humus layer, fertilizer savings and almost complete abandonment of plant protection products.
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Competent arrangement of beds in the country is one of the essential conditions for a rich harvest. Many novice gardeners believe that any growing conditions are suitable for plants, there would be land and water. In fact, many cultures require individual approach. Many factors influence their growth and development: the illumination of the site, the composition of the soil, and even the shape of the beds. Therefore, the arrangement of the garden in the country should be properly planned in advance.
First of all, you need to decide exactly what crops you will plant on your site. And only then do the most suitable bed for each of them.
fertile and beautiful beds in the country they give joy to both the eye and the stomach. They can be of different shapes and heights. The main thing is, of course, the soil. In modern horticulture, there is two different ways land cultivation:
- Traditional - constant regulation of the state of the soil by man, deep loosening and digging, excessive fertilization.
- Ecological - minimal human intervention in natural changes in the state of the soil.
In the traditional way there are two significant downsides. First, it requires great work. Endless weeding, digging, processing with various chemicals - all this takes a lot of time and effort. Secondly, this method is traumatic for the soil, because it does not have time to fully recover between digging procedures. As a result, even with regular use of fertilizers, the harvest on such beds is much more scarce than it could be.
The ecological approach is based primarily on the ability of the earth to self-heal, in contrast to the traditional one. To do this, she just needs not to interfere. Instead of deep digging, you can simply loosen the surface, and replace the constant weeding with regular mulching. With this approach, the soil structure develops in the most natural way with the help of various insects and microorganisms. On such organic beds, which are also called smart, plants receive all the necessary substances without the use of special fertilizers and give a rich harvest. Currently, it is the ecological approach that is most popular.
Smart beds for high yields
For creating smart beds do-it-yourself required quite a bit of time and effort. This must be done in several stages.
You will be surprised at your past doubts - whether to make high beds in the country ... Your back will be grateful to you - you just bend over a little to care for the garden. Your knees will thank you - you can just sit on the edge of the garden and work on your garden. Your plants will thank you - no more competition from weeds or nearby fruit trees. Your land will be grateful to you - you do not trample it down and ennoble it with humus. Your high-bed garden can look beautiful, comfortable, and reward you with a generous harvest.
How to make high beds with your own hands.
1. First we must mark out the place for the beds. The usual width of the beds is 1.2 m, the length can be any. Laying out rectangles right size sand on the ground.
2. We collect high beds. The high bed has no bottom and consists of posts with grooves on all four sides and boards with corresponding grooves. You can buy ready-made garden fences or make your own. For fencing it is better to take wood hardwood, because conifers emit resin, which can have an unnecessary effect on soil composition. We check the horizontal installation of the garden box with a level.
3. We lengthen the high beds. Because Our beds are modular, we can extend our beds from any side with another module.
4. How to protect a high bed from rodents. Even if you have not encountered moles and other underground garden pests in your summer cottage, it is better to provide protection for your garden right now than to unsuccessfully fight these rodents later. At the bottom of each box we put a metal mesh so that it goes a little to the edges of the fences.
5. How to protect the soil on a high bed from being washed out into the main soil. To do this, we use ordinary packing cardboard in two layers so that it covers the entire bottom of our garden box. If there are not enough whole pieces, we use scraps of cardboard - we fasten them with a stapler with the main piece so that the cardboard at the bottom of the box does not move when the soil is poured.
6. The soil for high beds should be light, crumbly and "fluffy". You can easily check its quality by poking your finger into the ground - if it sinks to the third joint, this is the norm. To improve the composition of the soil, you can add peat or compost. We pour the soil into the garden box, check its horizontal level, water it to compact it a little. During the season, we will need to add a little soil.
7. Irrigation system for high beds. It is planned to fix along the contour of the high beds garden hose with nozzles for watering: we need 90 and 180 degree dividers.
8. Trellis for high beds. Because the earth in the high bed is loose, then it will not be possible to install a trellis in it, so we fix the trellis from pvc pipes into the ground next to the garden box. We stretch nets on the trellises for climbing plants- cucumbers and beans. For tomatoes, we install light supports made of steel rod.
What you need to know when arranging a high bed.
1. Try to protect high beds from strong winds and heat by creating partial shade with flower trellises or tall shrubs.
2. The long side of the bed should face south - so the plants will be evenly lit, otherwise, taller plants will obscure the others.
3. Planting density on a high bed is twice as high as on a regular bed. So plants fight weeds and create a humid microclimate with foliage.
4. High beds with sides will make it possible for older people or people with back problems to take care of the garden.
5. A high bed is a warm bed. Such a bed warms up faster in the spring, and if you make a mini greenhouse on its basis, it will surprise you with an early and generous harvest.
6. Divide a long, high bed with cross braces into square segments - this way you will reduce the pressure of the soil on side walls beds.
Fences for high beds.
1. Most often, wooden fences are used for understandable beds. There are a few points here - do not use used wood, especially sleepers, which can contain harmful chemicals. Do not treat fresh wood with wood preservatives unless you are sure they are completely environmentally friendly.
2. Wattle as a fence for a high bed. For all its environmental friendliness, such a fence has three significant drawbacks - the soil in the bed dries quickly from the wind, proper thermal insulation of the bed is not provided, the soil can spill out through the cracks. Everything is fixable - use a layer of double cardboard around the inner perimeter of the fence. Environmentally friendly, the air gap between the sheets serves as thermal insulation, the earth no longer spills out.
3. As a fence for a high bed, you can use a metal profile, including from old roof or a fence.
5. You can make fences for a high bed with your own hands from brick or concrete. This is a very good option, but keep in mind that concrete will affect the acidity of the soil in the garden for 2-3 years.
6. The best raised bed railings are plastic. They do not emit anything of their own into the soil, excellent thermal insulation, long term services and the ability to set any shape of the beds, in contrast to the standard rectangles of beds with wooden fences.
7. Fences for high beds from improvised materials. You can make the sides of the beds from bottles laid like bricks on a concrete mortar.
Why do we need high beds.
High beds allow you to increase the area under the garden. you can use inconvenient slopes or poor or weedy soil. Raised beds provide an environmentally friendly way to deal with weeds and soil erosion.
Such beds warm up faster and give an earlier harvest. They allow more economical use of moisture for irrigation.
Various types of high beds.
In addition to the traditional raised bed with high sides, there are several other types of raised beds.
1. Circular high bed. It consists of a round frame, in which there is a path to the center of the garden. This form of high beds is also called the "keyhole".
Branches, roots, paper, compost are placed at the bottom of the beds. In the middle of the bed there is a tunnel for fresh organic waste and water.
This design of the beds provides the necessary moisture and constant enrichment of the soil.
2. High bed without fences. When arranging such a bed, the trunks of trees (not conifers), branches, roots, snags are laid in the ground at a shallow depth; the second layer is this sod removed from the place where you make the bed, laid with grass down; the third layer is 20-30 cm of the main soil mixed with humus.
For irrigation of bulk high beds, an irrigation irrigation system is used, when water comes from a ditch between the beds - a good option for gardens flooded in the spring, or you can use the drip irrigation option when water enters the garden from mini terraces.
The paths between the beds are covered with straw or large sawdust. Never step on the ground in a high bed - this will compact it, and it will be more difficult for plants to receive moisture and nutrients.
High beds of this type can be used not only for a vegetable garden, but also for growing shrubs and fruit trees, if you have problematic soil for them in your summer cottage. The service life of such a bed (until the first tree layer with trunks completely rots) is 20-25 years - this period is enough for any fruit tree.
Spare no space for paths between high beds - so you can always drive there with a garden wheelbarrow both for harvesting and with a new portion of humus. Have pity on your back - use a wheelbarrow.
If your raised beds are located next to fruit trees, you may need to install a root barrier before laying out the beds - dig a trench, cut the root on the way to the beds, install a metal sheet into the trench, which will prevent the root from growing in that direction and cover the trench with soil.
Learn more about raised beds through your own experience. There are many interesting finds, experiments and new discoveries in this topic for every gardener.
And we have prepared for you a video with 100 inspiring examples of the use of high beds in the country.
The benefits of a raised bed
This simple building will greatly simplify your country life:
- Ideal for a small area (as opposed to a vegetable garden in rows).
- Suitable for rocky and infertile soil.
- Compared to a conventional garden, it brings more harvest with the same area. This is due to better drainage and deep rooting of plants.
- Increases the growing season, as in cold regions you can start tillage earlier with the arrival of spring.
- Simplifies the gardening process. For example, dense planting creates a shade (acting as a mulch) that prevents weeds from growing.
Materials for building a raised bed
Many gardeners are concerned about the safety of timber framing. First, remember that pressed wood impregnated with a CCA antiseptic cannot be used. She releases arsenic. To increase the shelf life of a tree, there are several options:
- Today, in the mass production of pressed wood, a mixture is added chemical substances protecting it from rotting due to moisture. Despite the fact that this type of wood is certified and safe for plants, some still doubt this and prefer to use alternative environmentally friendly materials.
- More expensive woods, such as cedar, contain natural oils, which prevent decay, increasing the durability of the material. They are expensive, but they will last much longer.
- The thicker the board, the longer it will not rot. For example, a two-inch larch wall can stand for 10 years without any maintenance.
You can also use concrete blocks or brick, but keep in mind that concrete will acidify the soil over time.
Some even fit railroad ties, but I don't recommend that. If old samples can still be suitable, then in the manufacture of new ones, creosote treatment is used, which is toxic.
Planning and dimensions
Having decided on the type of tree, you can proceed to planning a future building:
- Choose a place that will receive a sufficient amount of sunlight.
- The standard width of the bed is 120 cm. This size provides unhindered access to plants without the need to step inside;
- the length of the structure is not critical. Sections are often made 120x240 cm or 120x360 cm.
- Depth can vary, but should be at least 15 cm. Roots need 15 to 30 cm, so 30 cm is ideal.
- Before installing the bed, check that the earth is not compressed. To do this, loosen it with garden forks to a depth of 15 - 20 cm. For improved rooting, some gardeners remove upper layer soil (to the depth of a shovel), then dig out the next layer and mix it together with the first.
Building a raised bed
To support the design, install wooden poles in each corner (and every 60 cm for long beds). I recommend doing this with inside- so the supports will be less noticeable.
The support poles must be dug in by about 60%, leaving the upper part above the ground. Make sure they are all the same height, otherwise the sections will be uneven.
Then install the bottom row of boards and check that they are all on the same level. Then kill the rest. It is best to use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.
In order to comfortably move between the beds, you should leave a passage of 60-70 cm.
Soil to fill
Fill the sections with a mixture of topsoil, compost, and other organic materials (such as manure) to keep the plants in a nutrient-rich environment.
Please note that the earth in such beds dries out faster, which is useful in spring and autumn. However, in the summer, cover the topsoil with straw, mulch, or hay.
Frequent watering is necessary for any plants that are on a hill. This is especially true of the early stages of their growth in raised beds.
What plants can be planted
Almost any crop can be grown in raised beds. Vegetables are the most common, but fruit, shrubs, and even trees are also successful. Just remember that some plants will grow beyond their section and this should be taken into account when planning the location.
Some general recommendations allowing you to maximize the benefits of your garden.
Continuity. Timely replacement of seedlings will ensure continuous production. When one crop is harvested, have seedlings ready to transplant in place of the old ones. For best result use fast maturing varieties to get the most fruit in one season.
Dense planting. Plant different crops close together to save space. Plants should be at such a distance that their leaves are in contact with each other, shielding the ground from the sun's rays. This will prevent weeds and retain moisture, saving you the hassle of frequently watering, weeding and mulching the soil. Since the plants will crowd each other as they mature, harvest the early-ripening ones first, leaving room for others to fully develop. For example, combine lettuce leaves with seasonal vegetables such as tomatoes, broccoli, or peppers.
Different cultures are allies, not rivals. Plants have different root lengths. Planting them side by side is the key to best use the entire volume of the garden. For example, you can combine short-rooted beans with deep-rooted beets. Thus, you eliminate the competition between cultures. It is also beneficial to plant nutrient-demanding vegetables (cabbage, cucumbers) along with beans or carrots that are unpretentious in this regard.
Help grow. If there is a fence on the north side of the garden, then the tallest plants planted there will not cast a shadow on the rest. Don't give climbing varieties grow chaotically, taking up valuable space. Help them grow in the right direction:
- Cucumbers willingly climb up the lattice fence. As a result, hanging fruits are very convenient to collect.
- Tomatoes ripen faster and produce more tomatoes if they are above the ground, tied to a pole.
- Peas and beans are always reaching for the sky. Substitute a tripod or wire mesh, and they will begin to wrap around it.
Some heavy plants, like melons and watermelons, will need help with directional growth. Tie their shoots to a support to make them move in the right direction. Support large fruits with straps so that they do not come off and fall ahead of time.
Nutritious soil, enough sun and good drainage are all the necessary conditions for the successful development of the garden. Create your own garden, which will always delight you and your friends with fresh vegetables and fruits for the table.
