Question in our gardens vertical gardening- one of the most mature and in demand. Under vertical gardening is meant gardening of walls, arbors, small architectural forms. Quite often, in young, underdeveloped areas, the question arises of overlapping medium and long-range plans, creating shade on the site and separating individual zones in the garden, where all the plants are still very young. In this case, vertical gardening techniques will save us. While seedlings of large shrubs and trees are growing, perennial and annual flowers dominate in the garden, and the only vertical accent - a shadow or decoration of the wall of a house, gazebos and other buildings - can be provided by creepers. A very interesting representative of the vines used in landscaping our gardens is honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium).
In the language of flowers, "honeysuckle" means "captivating dreams." Honeysuckle flowers were very often compared with true, devoted love, love that knows no boundaries and limits in ancient legends. In the legend of Heloise and Abelard, honeysuckle wrapped around their tombstones - a kind of symbol of eternal love. And in the legend of Tristan and Isolde, Isolde is very often compared with a honeysuckle flower, just as tender, sublime and very poetic, and in many other legends this flower is a symbol of passion, love and devotion.
In addition to the fact that honeysuckle blooms very beautifully, it also smells absolutely amazing. This is a stunning, very fresh and delicate fragrance, and the aroma intensifies in the evening hours. And if you want to create in your garden a corner not only beautiful and picturesque, but also filled with aromas, then you cannot do without honeysuckle honeysuckle.
With all its advantages, honeysuckle does not require much maintenance. In order for this perennial vine to develop and grow exactly vertically upwards, it must be given support. This is the type of vine that will not rise up without support, and the higher the support, the higher your plant will rise. In principle, a 5 - 6 year old liana can grow to a height of 4 - 5 meters - this is sufficient height for our small gardens.
It is better to plant honeysuckle in the spring. Liana is planted immediately on permanent place, so that there are several buds on the delenka, it is better - 2-3, from which long stems will go, which are actually a liana. Landing should be done in loose, sufficiently moist soil. Honeysuckle responds very well to top dressing mineral fertilizers and organic. It is best to feed it with nitrogen, potassium and manure. But keep in mind that the manure should not be fresh, but rotted, i.e. 2 - 3 years old, or you can use peat compost, which you can prepare yourself by putting all the plant waste that is in almost every garden into compost pits. Moreover, if you prepare peat compost in advance, i.e. V compost pits if you store plant waste from the site for quite a long time, and layer it with peat in layers, then in a year you will have a fairly good substrate that you will add to the planting pit when planting honeysuckle honeysuckle.
Planting is usually carried out either in a planting hole or in a planting trench, depending on what you want to achieve. If this is an element of vertical gardening for you, and you plant whole line honeysuckle so that it covers your trellis, then it is better to make a trench-trench, and immediately put all the necessary substances into this trench for many, many years - rotted manure or peat compost, trace elements, organic fertilizers. All this is thoroughly mixed with planting soil and your delenochki are planted in this prepared mixture. And if you plant in the spring, quite long young shoots will appear by the end of the season. At good care for a year, honeysuckle can give an increase of up to 2 meters in height, and sometimes more. These long lashes that you attach to vertical gardening structures do not need to be removed for the winter, honeysuckle honeysuckle is quite winter-hardy. And it is absolutely not necessary to cut off the long annual lashes of honeysuckle every winter. It is quite enough if severe winter weather is expected, in young plants, when freshly planted, mulch the root zone with peat or a dry leaf, or cover the bush with spruce branches. Moreover, this should be done only during the first two years after planting, and then your honeysuckle will winter well even in an upright state. When the plant begins to vegetate in spring, i.e. buds will begin to bloom, a new young growth will begin, you will see which part of the whip is frozen and which is preserved. So, in the spring after severe winter frosts, you need to make a sanitary pruning, but this is exactly a sanitary pruning, you do not need to cut honeysuckle on a stump. You just need to carefully cut with secateurs and remove those shoots on which the buds do not bloom, i.e. those that did not overwinter. But there is one catch - the honeysuckle buds bloom quite late and at the same time these buds are hidden on the shoot. You simply will not see how, on an ordinary shrub, a bud has grown or not. So take your time to prune the honeysuckle after winter, wait for the small young buds to appear from the hidden axils of the shoot. And when you see that the overwintered bud is strong, it swells, and there is a bare shoot above it, then this shoot above the bud must be cut with a pruner.
If the liana grows in the bright sun, then it gives a very abundant flowering, but honeysuckle honeysuckle can also develop in partial shade. The plant itself will not suffer from this, the bush will be powerful enough, and the vine will be tall, but the flowering will no longer be plentiful.
Among the many species of honeysuckle (Lonicera), there are both bushy and climbing - deciduous and evergreen. Curly honeysuckle - one of the most decorative and beloved plants, conquered Europe more than 100 years ago, but everyone is also loved so far. Honeysuckle vines are good as ground covers and for vertical gardening (decorating arches, retaining walls and arbors; masking the trunks of old trees and hedges). Curly honeysuckles start the growing season early and decorate the garden at any time of the year, especially during the flowering period. Blooms in late May - early June. When the long shoots of the current year are completely covered with elongated tubular flowers in spectacular inflorescences at the ends of the shoots. Liana-like honeysuckle has many advantages: numerous leaves and abundant flowering, bright and fragrant flowers (these are excellent honey plants), decorative fruits. The leaves of most types of honeysuckle are elliptical, dark green above, gray below.
Most types of honeysuckle vines like a sunny location, but shading at the base is very favorable for them. Creepers are quite shade-tolerant (however, in the shade, flowering of honeysuckle begins later and is less plentiful). Honeysuckle-lianas grow quickly, many species are undemanding to the soil (but develop better on fertile, moist soil), they tolerate transplanting and pruning well due to their high shoot-forming ability. The vine is thinned out after flowering, while cutting out the extra old stems. Honeysuckle growing on infertile soils is recommended to be fed with mineral fertilizers in the spring. Curly honeysuckle propagates easily: by seeds, green cuttings, layering.
Among the honeysuckle vines in the garden, honeysuckle honeysuckle is most often grown.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle, or fragrant (L. caprifolium), species name with Latin translated as "goat leaf" - a deciduous liana, capable of rising to a height of 10 meters with the help of a support. IN middle lane In Russia, this is the most common of the climbing honeysuckles; it is quite frost-resistant, hibernates under the snow (the tips of the shoots often freeze slightly). Under natural conditions, it grows in the Caucasus, in Central and Southern Europe. Honeysuckle is photophilous, demanding on fertility and soil moisture. The leaves are rather large, dense, leathery, elliptical or broadly elliptical, dark green above, bluish-gray below; 2-3 pairs of upper leaves grow together at the base to form an elliptical disk. They retain their color until late autumn and are among the last to fall in the garden. The peculiarly shaped flowers that appear on honeysuckle at the beginning of summer, with far protruding stamens, are collected in bunches and placed in the axils of the upper fused leaves. Flowers up to 5 cm long, white or yellowish inside, with a purple tint or purple-red stripes on the outside, fragrant, especially in the evening. The life of one flower lasts 3-4 days, in general, flowering lasts about three weeks .. Elegant fruits (inedible for people) ripen in early August and adorn the vine until late autumn. Orange-red honeysuckle berries have a short stalk, framed green leaves they seem to glow. Flowering and fruiting from four years. It develops quickly, its young shoots grow by 1.5-2 m per season. It lives up to 50 years or more.
Has two decorative forms: white (f. alba) - with white flowers, blooms 2 weeks earlier than typical; few-flowered (f. pauciflora) - with pink-red flowers, very decorative, but blooms less abundantly than the typical form.
Now this vine cannot be called fashionable, it is rather traditional, and despite being loved in last years many clematis and climbing roses, sooner or later still finds its place in the garden.
Planting site selection and soil preparation
Curly honeysuckles are photophilous, undemanding to soils, quite winter-hardy (one-year-old shoots freeze slightly in the Moscow region), resistant to pests and diseases. Most honeysuckles are moisture-loving(!). They prefer sandy or loamy neutral soils rich in organic matter, although they can grow on acidic peaty and wet limestones. The root system of climbing honeysuckles is pivotal, densely branched. The bulk of the roots is located within a radius of 1-1.5 meters at a depth of 40-50 cm.
Reproduction of climbing honeysuckle
Propagation: seeds, cuttings and layering.
With the vegetative method, honeysuckle is propagated by winter, spring and summer cuttings. late autumn they take strong summer shoots and divide them into pieces with 4-5 eyes, 10-15 cm long. Plant them in a loosened ridge to the last eye and cover with leaves.
Green cuttings are cut at the end of flowering (beginning of July). Each should have 2 internodes. The lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are shortened by half. The cuttings are planted in a shaded greenhouse at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other to a depth of 2-3 cm and covered with glass. The substrate is made up of peat, coarse sand and garden soil (2:2:1). Landings are abundantly sprayed 2-3 times a day. With the advent of the first young leaves (usually a month later), the glass can be removed. For the winter, the cuttings are mulched with peat, and in the spring they are transplanted to a permanent place. When planting, it is desirable to slightly deepen the root neck of the plant, which stimulates the development of adventitious roots. Rooting rate of cuttings without pretreatment is 50%.
Reproduction by seeds is a longer process. Seeds are harvested at the end of July. They are cleaned of pulp, washed and dried. Store at room temperature. To facilitate germination, the seeds are stratified, that is, they are kept for a long time in wet sand at a low temperature. To do this, in February, dry seeds are mixed with sand (1: 3), moistened and stored in a refrigerator at a positive temperature for two months. They are periodically inspected and, if necessary, moistened. In April, the seeds, together with sand, are sown in prepared ridges to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The seeding depth is 0.9 - 1 cm. During the summer, the seedlings are watered and weeded out. In autumn or next year in spring, plants can already be transplanted to a permanent place. In the early years, it is advisable to mulch the bushes with peat before winter.
Planting seedlings
The best time for planting honeysuckle seedlings is early autumn. Dimensions landing pit- 60x60 cm, depth 50 cm, distance in a row 1.5 meters. For one pit, mix 1 bucket of peat-manure compost with 50-80 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium salt. Use 2-3 year old seedlings. The root neck should be 3-5 cm above the soil surface.
Care and feeding
This wonderful creeper has one significant drawback - left to itself, it quickly turns into a tangled, untidy lump. It's a shame when you see a neglected, unattractive bush with a shapeless mass of greenery. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary from the very beginning to properly care for her curly shoots. The first thing to start with is to make a strong and beautiful support. It can be metal, wooden, a nylon net with a large mesh or cords stretched vertically or in any desired direction is suitable. Young shoots are directed along the support, evenly distributing over its entire area. It should be borne in mind that honeysuckle honeysuckle stems twist counterclockwise. At the shoot that has reached the desired height, the top is cut off, thereby stimulating the development of side shoots. Soil loosening is of great importance trunk circles. This is done 4-5 times per season to a depth of 4-5 cm. Honeysuckle needs watering during the summer growing season. Curly honeysuckles are quickly exposed from below. This feature must be somehow compensated for by other curly ones. Second important condition to preserve the decorative curly honeysuckle - correct pruning. With its help, the bush can be given and maintained the desired shape, enhance flowering, rejuvenate the old plant. If the bush is too neglected, it is better to completely cut the stems. Then new shoots will develop from the dormant buds at the base of the plant. Neither fertilization nor watering can replace this important operation. After formative pruning, flowering will be especially plentiful. Resistant to pests and diseases.
During the period of prolonged rains, the leaves and berries of climbing honeysuckle can be affected by fungal diseases. From diseases, honeysuckle is sprayed with copper preparations - copper oxychloride 0.15% (in spring) and other fungicides.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a flowering vine, ideal for vertical gardening and zoning suburban area. From it you can grow a pretty hedge, create a cozy natural office around the bench, decorate the arch, porch, and also hide the mesh fence from prying eyes or disguise the old building.
Description
Honeysuckle reaches a height of 3-6 m. Its young vines grow well up and to the sides, and, interestingly, “play” in the sun with red-pink and purple hues.
Honey tubular inflorescences-whorls honeysuckle are pink, yellow or white color, and outside - often with an addition of a purple hue. Its flowers with long stamens exude a pleasant delicate aroma, especially in the evenings, bloom one after another and live only 3-4 days. But the whole bush blooms for about 3 weeks at the end of May - in the first half of summer, after which reddish inedible berries appear on it.
The elliptical leaves of the plant are also very beautiful, large and dense, with an original coloring: dark green above, gray below.
In addition, goat honeysuckle is very unpretentious, perfectly tolerates pruning, withstands frost down to -20 ... -25C. Its life span is at least 30-50 years.
Selection of seedlings
It is better to choose two-year or three-year-old seedlings with 2-3 branches with a diameter of 5 mm and a height of no more than 40 cm. The shoots should be flexible, not shrunken, with several live buds, without rot and other defects. But the “peeling” of the young bark should not be feared, for honeysuckle this is a normal phenomenon.
Honeysuckle is usually sold in containers, but cheaper bare-root seedlings are also available.
As for individual varieties, here, in addition to honeysuckle proper (forms "white", "Inga", "little-flowered" etc.) should also be mentioned curly honeysuckle(including grade "Serotina"), yellow, Brown, Telman And Hecrott, and Japanese honeysuckle- all of them are perfect for vertical gardening.
Landing dates
The optimal planting dates for honeysuckle last from the beginning of September until the end of the second decade of October.
You can plant bushes in the spring, but this way they can take root worse. Honeysuckle wakes up early, with the onset of positive temperatures, so spring planting should be planned after the thawing of the earth, but even before bud break (April).
- Choose the most suitable day for planting honeysuckle by.
Place for landing
For ornamental honeysuckle, it is better to initially choose a permanent place, as she does not like to transplant. The plant feels comfortable on bright, warm, loose and wind-protected areas, for example, near or a wall from the eastern or southern tip of the cottage. Bushes grow in partial shade, however, so their flowering will be worse.
- Important! When choosing a place, it should be remembered that honeysuckle definitely needs support.
In group plantings, honeysuckle is combined with herbaceous plants, coniferous and woody shrubs. Hydrangea, magnolia, spirea, clematis are friends with her. Also among the good neighbors can be noted wild rose, viburnum, heather, juniper, action, garden jasmine and currant.
The soil
The culture is undemanding to soils, but best option- these are drained fertile sandy loams and loams, without the dominance of sand or clay.
Permissible acidity is in the range of pH 5.0-7.5. If the earth turns out to be acidified, then 1-2 months before planting, 200-400 g / sq. m of dolomite or chalk.
In addition, decorative honeysuckle, although it loves watering, does not tolerate a close approach. ground water or stagnant drains. To avoid waterlogging, it is better to lay the drainage.
Planting honeysuckle
1. A few days before planting, prepare a trench or holes 40-50 cm deep, 50 cm wide. Plan the gap between bushes in a row by an average of 1.5-2 m, and 2-3 m between rows.
2. At the bottom of the hole, lay gravel, gravel or expanded clay on 10 cm.
3. Prepare a substrate from fertile soil, old humus and sand (3:2:1 or 3:1:1, and organic matter should be from 10 kg / bush). Also add here 30-40 g of potassium sulfate, 70-100 g of superphosphate and 250 g. Instead of individual ingredients, you can mix in 100 g of the “complex”, for example, “OMU Universal”. If the soil is poor, then add up to 20-30 kg of organic matter per bush, and add 3-4 kg of clay for more.
4. Stir the mixture, then pour into the hole and form a mound.
5. Check the seedlings again, remove broken and weak branches, shorten the rest of the shoots to a strong bud, and shorten the roots to 30 cm.
6. Place the seedling on the mound in the center of the hole, straighten the roots, then water the 1st time (0.5 buckets / bush). Seedlings in containers can be soaked in advance by immersing in water for 15 minutes.
7. Sprinkle everything on top with loose earth or the rest of the substrate, compact. Honeysuckle root collar, in contrast to edible honeysuckle, it is desirable to leave at the surface level.
8. Form a border around the bush, then water the plant again, adding 10 liters of water / bush. If the earth settles, add soil, controlling the level of the neck.
9. Finally, after planting, mulch everything with dry earth, old sawdust, chopped straw, humus or peat.
Care for honeysuckle honeysuckle
Support
Young vines should be gradually let in on a suitable support to the desired height, evenly distributing the branches over the entire surface and twisting them counterclockwise.
Framework examples:
- - wooden trellis from mounting rails;
- - long poles, dug in from below, fixed on top with a “cone”, with tied cells made of PVC, branches, wire;
- - pillars with a grid stretched between them;
- - row wooden structures letter "A", with a connecting horizontal pole over the top of all "letters".
Watering
The ground under the bush should remain in a moderately moist state. If there is no rain, plan the first irrigation after planting after 5-7 days. Subsequently, water the young culture once a week, and in the heat - up to 2 times a week. Adult bushes can be moistened less often, 1-2 r. per month depending on the weather. Under the plant, 10-20 liters are applied per approach. water.
Weeding, loosening, mulching
After watering, it is recommended to gently loosen the soil, not deep, so as not to hook the roots, while removing weeds. To offset the rapid evaporation of moisture and reduce the need for loosening, mulching is allowed.
top dressing
The first two seasons after planting honeysuckle can not be fed. In the future, it is fertilized every 2-3 years:
- - in early spring ammonium nitrate 15-20 g / bush or urea 1 tbsp. l. / bucket;
- - until mid-May, organic matter is appropriate (a bucket of diluted mullein 1:10 or a bucket);
- - in June - in early July, add 1-2 times, to choose from: slurry (1: 4) diluted in a bucket of water; NPK complex or nitroammophoska, 20-30 g / bucket;
- - in the fall, honeysuckle is fed with compost (5 kg / bush), it is possible with the addition of 100 g of ash and 30-40 g of double superphosphate.
Wintering
Despite the varietal winter hardiness, it is better to insulate honeysuckle on the first frost. Only planted plants, as well as any hybrids, especially need shelter. Mulch the trunk circle with peat, dry leaves, sawdust or straw. Remove adult creepers from supports, lay them on a rug of leaves and wrap them with spruce branches, lutrasil, etc.
Honeysuckle berries decorate the vine until winter.
The photo was taken at the end of November in the Leningrad region.
pruning
The next year after planting, it is enough to leave 3-5 of the most powerful shoots, the rest can be cut to the root.
Upon reaching 5-7 summer age for honeysuckle, only sanitary pruning is desirable, better in spring, after the awakening of the kidneys. To do this, remove frostbitten, shrunken, bare or broken branches that cannot give new shoots.
Honeysuckle creepers add 1-2 m per year. Therefore, with age, very elongated, low-growing or thickened areas should also be thinned out so that the plant looks neat and receives enough light. To stimulate the side vines, after reaching the desired height, you can cut off the top at the main stem.
For an adult plant, rejuvenating pruning will not hurt every 6-8 years, especially if the bush has begun to bloom worse. To do this, severely cut all shoots up to 15-40 cm from the ground and sprinkle the sections with ash. Cardinal pruning is best done in 2 stages: in the first season, cut one half of the shoots, the next year - the second part.
Popular breeding methods
cuttings. Before the end of flowering, cut off the branches of 10-12 cm with live buds, remove the lower leaves on them, the upper ones - half. For a greenhouse, prepare a substrate of compost, garden soil, sand (1:1:1) or peat, earth and sand (2:1:2). Treat the cuttings with "Kornevin" and stick into the ground, pour over and cover with jars or film, ventilate and sprinkle daily.
layering. Tilt a healthy adult branch to the ground, fix it with a bracket, sprinkle with earth and water well. The following year, dig up the layering, separate it from the "mother" and transplant it.
The division of the bush. Dig up an adult honeysuckle in the area of \u200b\u200bthe roots, then cut off a part of the root with a shoot with a knife, disinfect the cut site. Shorten the new shoot by about a third, and plant it in a new place.
evergreen and charming blooming honeysuckle will make your site truly beautiful, add natural naturalness to it, hide the patio from prying eyes and allow you to create secluded quiet corners for outdoor recreation!
Honeysuckle honeysuckle is an ornamental flowering vines. Unlike edible honeysuckle, its fruits are not used for food or medicinal purposes, but for landscaping and decoration. garden plot honeysuckle honeysuckle is the first assistant to flower growers and landscape designers.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle is most often used as a hedge, planting plants along fences or surrounding arbors with them to provide vertical gardening. Honeysuckle honeysuckle exudes a delicate, pleasant aroma, which is especially felt in the evenings.
The flowering of the plant occurs in May-June. During this period, honeysuckle branches are covered with white-pink or white-yellow flowers, brighter on the outside, shaped like a reduced copy of an orchid. Later, the plant also produces fruits - small red berries, which also decorate the vine.
Features of growing honeysuckle honeysuckle
Planting and caring for honeysuckle honeysuckle does not contain anything complicated. To ensure proper growth, it must be provided with support - wrapping around it, the vine will develop and stretch upward. The height to which the plant can rise is also directly proportional to the height of the support.
On average, honeysuckle honeysuckle gives about one meter of growth per year. Thus, within five years, it can reach a height of 4-5 meters.
Planting honeysuckle honeysuckle: when and how best to plant a plant
For planting honeysuckle honeysuckle, the spring season is most preferable.
Creeper buds are planted immediately in a permanent place. The soil intended for planting must be thoroughly moistened and loosened. Experts do not recommend planting one kidney, it is better to use them on a plot of 2-3, or even more. This approach will provide a more lush hedge, because it is from the buds that long stems of vines grow.
To plant buds in the ground, it is necessary to dig a landing hole or a landing trench. The choice of one or the other depends on the desired end result. If planting through a hole is used, the grown plant will take the form of a bush, and planting in a trench is used for the purpose of vertical gardening to create rows of honeysuckle.
To place honeysuckle honeysuckle in the garden, it is advisable to choose a place that is brightly lit by the sun's rays. In this case, the plant will delight the eye with abundant flowering. In a shaded place, the stems will remain just as strong, but a large number flowers will not appear.
Fertilizing the soil before planting
For the healthy development of the plant, it is necessary to prepare the soil by saturating it with fertilizers. Humus from manure, peat, trace elements, various organic and mineral fertilizers can be used as fertilizers. All this is collected together and connected to the planting soil, after which honeysuckle buds are planted in the already prepared soil. 
After planting correctly carried out in the spring, the first shoots will appear towards the end of May - the beginning of June. They will already be long enough, and in the first year, with proper care, they can give an increase of up to 1.5-2 meters.
Top dressing honeysuckle honeysuckle
Further care for honeysuckle honeysuckle involves periodic fertilization. Liana especially favors nitrogen, potassium fertilizers, as well as 2-3-year-old humus. Honeysuckle will also respond positively to rotted vegetable fertilizers.
Fertilizers can be prepared independently. To do this, vegetable waste is added to the compost pit, from time to time they need to be poured with peat. For a year of such preparation, you can get a good peat compost.
Basic rules for caring for honeysuckle honeysuckle
Caring for honeysuckle honeysuckle does not require particularly close attention.
The plant tolerates a drop in temperature, up to 40 degrees. Of course, in order to protect honeysuckle, it is better to cover it with spruce branches during severe frosts. If frostbitten branches still appear, in the spring they are identified and cut off. It is not worth removing all the stems of the vine before wintering - this will not allow it to sufficiently gain strength and grow. In the spring, during the laying of the kidneys, a slight frost will also not harm the plant.
In summer, honeysuckle should be watered frequently and with plenty of water. However, an adult vine may well do without watering for some time.
The soil, in addition to fertilizing, must be periodically mulched. Mulching is designed not only to protect the soil and enrich it useful substances. This simple procedure performs several more important functions:
- prevents the emergence of weeds;
- retains moisture in the soil;
- allows less loosening of the soil;
- prevents pathogens from entering the soil with precipitation and during irrigation;
- protects in summer upper layer soil from overheating;
- in autumn and winter protects the soil from freezing, weathering and excessive leaching.
Both organic (grass, straw, leaves, sawdust, paper, etc.) and inorganic (sand, gravel, fine stone, plastic, crushed rubber) materials can be used as mulch.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle: breeding methods
Most in a simple way propagation of honeysuckle vines is considered to be the planting of pre-sprouted seeds. However, honeysuckle can be propagated in a different way - cuttings and layering.
When cuttings, the propagation process can occur in spring, summer and late autumn.
For autumn cuttings, you need to choose healthy, strong shoots about 10-15 cm long. There should be at least 4-5 eyes on the shoots. Landing is carried out in loose, moist soil, the last eye is left above the ground. From above, the plot is mulched with leaves.
Summer cuttings begin at the end of July, when the plant fades. The stems are cut so long that each has 2 internodes, the leaves are removed from the bottom. Cuttings are planted in a greenhouse closed from direct sun rays, at a short distance from each other - 15-25 cm. The rooting depth is 2-3 cm. From above, the greenhouse is covered with glass, which can be removed after new leaves appear. The soil is moistened several times a day. For wintering, honeysuckle cuttings are mulched with peat, and in spring they can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Reproduction by layering consists in the fact that the lower branches are dug a little into the ground, after which they are watered abundantly. Do this in the spring so that the plant can take root over the summer. After wintering, new bushes are considered already strong enough for seating.
Propagation by seeds is a long process if you collect them yourself. Seed collection begins after flowering, at the end of July. harvested seeds thoroughly washed and dried, and then stored in a dry place. In February, the seeds are sprinkled with wet sand and kept in the refrigerator for two months, after which they are sown in the soil. Seeds are germinated, providing them with watering and weeding from weeds. Transplantation to a permanent place can be carried out in the fall or immediately after wintering.
Formation of honeysuckle bush honeysuckle
In order for the plant to please the eye, it cannot be started - left to itself, honeysuckle quickly loses its presentable appearance, turning into some kind of shapeless mass.
The most important condition for the correct formation of vines is a good support. In addition to beauty, it must be strong and high enough. The material does not matter much - it can be metal, wood, nylon net, etc. The branches of the plant must be manually laid in the right direction, distributing them over the surface.
After the plant has reached the desired height, the top of it is cut off, which gives impetus to the development of lateral stems.
In our gardens, the issue of vertical gardening is one of the urgent and in demand. Under vertical gardening is meant gardening of walls, arbors, small architectural forms. Quite often, in young, underdeveloped areas, the question arises of overlapping medium and long-range plans, creating shade on the site and separating individual zones in the garden, where all the plants are still very young. In this case, vertical gardening techniques will save us. While seedlings of large shrubs and trees are growing, perennial and annual flowers dominate in the garden, and the only vertical accent - a shadow or decoration of the wall of a house, gazebos and other buildings - can be provided by creepers. A very interesting representative of the vines used in landscaping our gardens is honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium).
In the language of flowers, "honeysuckle" means "captivating dreams." Honeysuckle flowers were very often compared with true, devoted love, love that knows no boundaries and limits in ancient legends. In the legend of Heloise and Abelard, honeysuckle wrapped around their tombstones - a kind of symbol of eternal love. And in the legend of Tristan and Isolde, Isolde is very often compared with a honeysuckle flower, just as tender, sublime and very poetic, and in many other legends this flower is a symbol of passion, love and devotion.
In addition to the fact that honeysuckle blooms very beautifully, it also smells absolutely amazing. This is a stunning, very fresh and delicate fragrance, and the aroma intensifies in the evening hours. And if you want to create in your garden a corner not only beautiful and picturesque, but also filled with aromas, then you cannot do without honeysuckle honeysuckle.
With all its advantages, honeysuckle does not require much maintenance. In order for this perennial vine to develop and grow exactly vertically upwards, it must be given support. This is the type of vine that will not rise up without support, and the higher the support, the higher your plant will rise. In principle, a 5 - 6 year old liana can grow to a height of 4 - 5 meters - this is sufficient height for our small gardens.
It is better to plant honeysuckle in the spring. The vine is planted immediately in a permanent place, so that there are several buds on the delenka, preferably 2-3, from which long stems will go, which are actually a vine. Landing should be done in loose, sufficiently moist soil. Honeysuckle responds very well to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is best to feed it with nitrogen, potassium and manure. But keep in mind that the manure should not be fresh, but rotted, i.e. 2 - 3 years old, or you can use peat compost, which you can prepare yourself by putting all the plant waste that is in almost every garden into compost pits. Moreover, if you prepare peat compost in advance, i.e. If you store plant waste from the site for quite a long time in compost pits, and layer it with peat in layers, then in a year you will have a fairly good substrate that you will add to the planting pit when planting honeysuckle honeysuckle.
Planting is usually carried out either in a planting hole or in a planting trench, depending on what you want to achieve. If this is an element of vertical gardening for you, and you plant a whole row of honeysuckle so that it covers your trellis, then it is better to make a trench trench, and immediately put all the necessary substances into this trench for many, many years - rotted manure or peat compost, trace elements, organic fertilizers. All this is thoroughly mixed with planting soil and your delenochki are planted in this prepared mixture. And if you plant in the spring, quite long young shoots will appear by the end of the season. With good care for the year, honeysuckle can grow up to 2 meters in height, and sometimes more. These long lashes that you attach to vertical gardening structures do not need to be removed for the winter, honeysuckle honeysuckle is quite winter-hardy. And it is absolutely not necessary to cut off the long annual lashes of honeysuckle every winter. It is quite enough if severe winter weather is expected, in young plants, when freshly planted, mulch the root zone with peat or a dry leaf, or cover the bush with spruce branches. Moreover, this should be done only during the first two years after planting, and then your honeysuckle will winter well even in an upright state. When the plant begins to vegetate in spring, i.e. buds will begin to bloom, a new young growth will begin, you will see which part of the whip is frozen and which is preserved. So, in the spring after severe winter frosts, you need to make a sanitary pruning, but this is exactly a sanitary pruning, you do not need to cut honeysuckle on a stump. You just need to carefully cut with secateurs and remove those shoots on which the buds do not bloom, i.e. those that did not overwinter. But there is one catch - the honeysuckle buds bloom quite late and at the same time these buds are hidden on the shoot. You simply will not see how, on an ordinary shrub, a bud has grown or not. So take your time to prune the honeysuckle after winter, wait for the small young buds to appear from the hidden axils of the shoot. And when you see that the overwintered bud is strong, it swells, and there is a bare shoot above it, then this shoot above the bud must be cut with a pruner.
If the liana grows in bright sun, then it gives a very abundant flowering, but honeysuckle honeysuckle can also develop in partial shade. The plant itself will not suffer from this, the bush will be powerful enough, and the vine will be tall, but the flowering will no longer be plentiful.
Among the many species of honeysuckle (Lonicera), there are both bushy and climbing - deciduous and evergreen. Curly honeysuckle - one of the most decorative and beloved plants, conquered Europe more than 100 years ago, but everyone is also loved so far. Honeysuckle vines are good as ground covers and for vertical gardening (decorating arches, retaining walls and arbors; masking the trunks of old trees and hedges). Curly honeysuckles start the growing season early and decorate the garden at any time of the year, especially during the flowering period. Blooms in late May - early June. When the long shoots of the current year are completely covered with elongated tubular flowers in spectacular inflorescences at the ends of the shoots. Liana-like honeysuckle has many advantages: numerous leaves and abundant flowering, bright and fragrant flowers (these are excellent honey plants), decorative fruits. The leaves of most types of honeysuckle are elliptical, dark green above, gray below.
Most types of honeysuckle vines like a sunny location, but shading at the base is very favorable for them. Creepers are quite shade-tolerant (however, in the shade, flowering of honeysuckle begins later and is less plentiful). Honeysuckle-lianas grow quickly, many species are undemanding to the soil (but develop better on fertile, moist soil), they tolerate transplanting and pruning well due to their high shoot-forming ability. The vine is thinned out after flowering, while cutting out the extra old stems. Honeysuckle growing on infertile soils is recommended to be fed with mineral fertilizers in the spring. Curly honeysuckle propagates easily: by seeds, green cuttings, layering.
Among the honeysuckle vines in the garden, honeysuckle honeysuckle is most often grown.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle, or fragrant (L. caprifolium), the specific name from Latin is translated as “goat leaf” - a deciduous vine that can rise to a height of 10 meters with the help of a support. In central Russia, this is the most common of the climbing honeysuckles; it is quite frost-resistant, hibernates under the snow (the tips of the shoots often freeze slightly). Under natural conditions, it grows in the Caucasus, in Central and Southern Europe. Honeysuckle is photophilous, demanding on fertility and soil moisture. The leaves are rather large, dense, leathery, elliptical or broadly elliptical, dark green above, bluish-gray below; 2-3 pairs of upper leaves grow together at the base to form an elliptical disk. They retain their color until late autumn and fall one of the last in the garden. The peculiarly shaped flowers that appear on honeysuckle at the beginning of summer, with far protruding stamens, are collected in bunches and placed in the axils of the upper fused leaves. Flowers up to 5 cm long, white or yellowish inside, with a purple tint or purple-red stripes on the outside, fragrant, especially in the evening. The life of one flower lasts 3-4 days, in general, flowering lasts about three weeks .. Elegant fruits (inedible for people) ripen in early August and adorn the vine until late autumn. Orange-red honeysuckle berries have a short stem, framed by green leaves, they seem to glow. Flowering and fruiting from four years. It develops quickly, its young shoots grow by 1.5-2 m per season. It lives up to 50 years or more.
It has two decorative forms: white (f. alba) - with white flowers, blooms 2 weeks earlier than typical; few-flowered (f. pauciflora) - with pink-red flowers, very decorative, but blooms less abundantly than the typical form.
Now this vine cannot be called fashionable, it is rather traditional, and despite the clematis and climbing roses that have become beloved by many in recent years, sooner or later it still finds its place in the garden.
Planting site selection and soil preparation
Curly honeysuckles are photophilous, undemanding to soils, quite winter-hardy (one-year-old shoots freeze slightly in the Moscow region), resistant to pests and diseases. Most honeysuckles are moisture-loving(!). They prefer sandy or loamy neutral soils rich in organic matter, although they can grow on acidic peaty and wet limestones. The root system of climbing honeysuckles is pivotal, densely branched. The bulk of the roots is located within a radius of 1-1.5 meters at a depth of 40-50 cm.
Reproduction of climbing honeysuckle
Propagation: seeds, cuttings and layering.
With the vegetative method, honeysuckle is propagated by winter, spring and summer cuttings. In late autumn, strong summer shoots are taken and divided into pieces with 4-5 eyes, 10-15 cm long. Planted in a loosened ridge to the last eye and covered with leaves.
Green cuttings are cut at the end of flowering (beginning of July). Each should have 2 internodes. The lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are shortened by half. The cuttings are planted in a shaded greenhouse at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other to a depth of 2-3 cm and covered with glass. The substrate is made up of peat, coarse sand and garden soil (2:2:1). Landings are abundantly sprayed 2-3 times a day. With the advent of the first young leaves (usually a month later), the glass can be removed. For the winter, the cuttings are mulched with peat, and in the spring they are transplanted to a permanent place. When planting, it is desirable to slightly deepen the root neck of the plant, which stimulates the development of adventitious roots. Rooting rate of cuttings without pretreatment is 50%.
Reproduction by seeds is a longer process. Seeds are harvested at the end of July. They are cleaned of pulp, washed and dried. Store at room temperature. To facilitate germination, the seeds are stratified, that is, they are kept for a long time in wet sand at a low temperature. To do this, in February, dry seeds are mixed with sand (1: 3), moistened and stored in a refrigerator at a positive temperature for two months. They are periodically inspected and, if necessary, moistened. In April, the seeds, together with sand, are sown in prepared ridges to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The seeding depth is 0.9 - 1 cm. During the summer, the seedlings are watered and weeded out. In autumn or next year in spring, plants can already be transplanted to a permanent place. In the early years, it is advisable to mulch the bushes with peat before winter.
Planting seedlings
The best time for planting honeysuckle seedlings is early autumn. The dimensions of the landing pit are 60x60 cm, depth 50 cm, distance in a row 1.5 meters. For one pit, mix 1 bucket of peat-manure compost with 50-80 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium salt. Use 2-3 year old seedlings. The root neck should be 3-5 cm above the soil surface.
Care and feeding
This wonderful creeper has one significant drawback - left to itself, it quickly turns into a tangled, untidy lump. It's a shame when you see a neglected, unattractive bush with a shapeless mass of greenery. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary from the very beginning to properly care for her curly shoots. The first thing to start with is to make a strong and beautiful support. It can be metal, wooden, a nylon net with a large mesh or cords stretched vertically or in any desired direction is suitable. Young shoots are directed along the support, evenly distributing over its entire area. It should be borne in mind that honeysuckle honeysuckle stems twist counterclockwise. At the shoot that has reached the desired height, the top is cut off, thereby stimulating the development of side shoots. Of great importance is the loosening of the soil in the near-stem circles. This is done 4-5 times per season to a depth of 4-5 cm. Honeysuckle needs watering during the summer growing season. Curly honeysuckles are quickly exposed from below. This feature must be somehow compensated for by other curly ones. The second important condition for preserving the decorativeness of curly honeysuckle is proper pruning. With its help, the bush can be given and maintained the desired shape, enhance flowering, rejuvenate the old plant. If the bush is too neglected, it is better to completely cut the stems. Then new shoots will develop from the dormant buds at the base of the plant. Neither fertilization nor watering can replace this important operation. After formative pruning, flowering will be especially plentiful. Resistant to pests and diseases.
During the period of prolonged rains, the leaves and berries of climbing honeysuckle can be affected by fungal diseases. From diseases, honeysuckle is sprayed with copper preparations - copper oxychloride 0.15% (in spring) and other fungicides.
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