Do I need to prune strawberry leaves in the fall and how to do it right? What care do strawberries need after the harvest is completed

There is no definite answer to the questions - why and when to cut strawberries after harvesting. Opinions of gardeners on this matter are different. Some are for it, some are vehemently against it. Why trim the leaves? Why do this if it seems to be known that the foliage feeds the root? Like, the more foliage, the stronger the bush. Yes, this, of course, is correct. But ... Harvested - prepare for the next! Sounds like a slogan for a gardener. So, after harvesting, this is the preparation of the plantation for the new season. And pruning strawberry leaves is one of the stages of this care.

We all love this berry. In the spring, a lot of effort is spent on caring for strawberries before and during flowering, during the formation and ripening of berries. We want more strawberries. To make them bigger, juicier, tastier. So, just after the harvest, you need to make every effort to improve, increase it next year. Strawberries need special care just after harvesting. This is the most important time for her and for us.

Why trim the mustache of strawberries

Surely, you already noticed during the harvest that strawberries (strawberries) give a lot of whiskers. Of course, it depends on the variety. Some varieties form a lot of mustache, some a little, they can even be completely beardless.

We collected all the berries - carefully inspect the entire plantation. It is necessary to loosen the beds of garden strawberries, weed them from weeds, remove the mustache.

Mustaches are required for strawberries to breed. If you do not want to get young rosettes, new plants for propagation, then you need to cut them off immediately after they appear.

Usually there are several mustaches on one bush. We collect them in one bunch and cut them as close as possible to the base of the bush. By the way, this mustache trimming procedure will have to be repeated more than once per season. If we start, we don’t do it on time, then the plant will spend all its strength on the growth of mustaches, rosettes, and the future crop will get less. Strawberries will lay flower buds less, which means that there will not be many berries, they will become smaller.

Everything superfluous for the future harvest must be cut off.

In addition, this is necessary so that the strawberries do not thicken, since thickened plantings are more difficult to care for.

When to feed, fertilize

Some gardeners do the wrong thing by overfeeding strawberries before harvest. This leads to the fact that it is strongly affected by gray rot, this is, firstly. Secondly, although the berries become large, they are watery, less sweet, and have a shorter harvest period.

In early spring before flowering we spend nitrogen fertilizers. But, remember, the main fertilization should be after harvest. This is top dressing full mineral fertilizer and organic. Many bring manure under strawberries. This, of course, is good - manure not only nourishes the plants, but also takes care of the strawberry root system.

Hilling strawberries

The fact is that strawberries are a perennial berry plant. Over time, it builds up an aerial root system and begins, as it were, to bulge out of the ground. Every year, especially after 3-4 years of growing in one place, we are forced to add mulch, earth, compost, rotted manure into the aisles, thus covering the roots of strawberries. Mulching helps the roots develop well.

Reasons, timing of pruning leaves

The laying of fruit buds in strawberries (strawberries) occurs in June (Krasnodar Territory) - July (middle lane) after harvest. By this time, it is necessary to coincide with the first trimming of the mustache, leaves.

The fact is that a strawberry leaf lives only 60-70 days - 2-2.5 months. And after that, various spots appear on the leaves - whitish, rusty, red. These are signs of leaf aging, the development of various diseases on them.

That is, you need to trim the leaves of strawberries (strawberries) in order to protect future harvest from diseases.

Trim leaves or whiskers with secateurs or scissors. Tools must be sharp. Do not tear them off with your hands - this way you can damage the root system. The plant, instead of building up leaf mass, will recover its strength for a long time.

The process of chlorophyll production stops 2-2.5 months after picking the berries - even in healthy plants, the leaves may turn red.

Tip: the reddened leaves should be removed to prevent the pests remaining on them from wintering quietly. Treat the plantation with pesticides. Only it should have been done much earlier: the picture was taken in September. There is a danger that young leaves will not have time to grow after pruning - bare bushes may not survive the frosty winter.

So, a month and a half after picking the berries, we inspect the plantation of strawberries (strawberries) and remove all the leaves with spots, holes, while not forgetting to cut the flower stalks. We leave only young leaves.

When to do it? In the Kuban, this is the end of June-beginning of July, in middle lane- the first half of August. I will not say the exact date - it is not so important. Most importantly, calculate the timing so that your strawberries leave in the winter with young leaves already grown.

How to prune strawberries if the plants are affected by diseases, pests

In the event that strawberry bushes are affected by a tick, there is severe spotting on the leaves, it is necessary to remove all leaves, even young ones. Leaves with signs of disease should be cut as close to the base of the bush as possible, since disease spores can also persist on petioles. Try not to touch the heart of the bush when pruning - the plant will be able to recover faster. By doing such pruning, you will not harm the bush, as strawberries grow green mass very quickly. By cutting off the old leaves, you will immediately see where you can loosen the ground, where you need to remove the weeds.

Of course, by removing all the leaves from strawberries, you will not get rid of all pests and diseases. They will remain on the stumps of leaves, the ground. Simply, such a bed is easier to treat with drugs for diseases and pests. This processing is more efficient.

Now you can feed the "rejuvenated" bed. At this time, as I said, fruit buds are laid - the basis of the future harvest, so do not forget to periodically water your strawberries. And if it doesn't rain, keep the soil moist.

Top dressing, at this time are required. It is at this time that strawberries will increase their leaf mass, which in winter, covered with snow, will protect the root system from freezing. That is, the more foliage your bushes go into the winter, the better they will winter. And this will increase your yield.

If during the harvest period you notice berries affected by gray rot, then after fruiting, treat the entire plantation with some kind of fungicide - this may be Topaz or Horus.

Is it possible to mow all strawberry leaves

Not so long ago, walking along my dacha street, I saw that my acquaintances were mowing strawberry leaves with a scythe. They have a large berry plot - several acres - they cannot do without a scythe, as they believe. At first I thought that they decided to get rid of the old strawberries in this way, they say, it's time to start a new plantation. But it turned out that everything is not so. The owner of the dacha said that they mow the leaves of strawberries every year, three or four weeks after the last harvest. And this year, some circumstances prevented them from doing it on time and they mowed in mid-August. The strawberry harvest, according to them, is good all the time, it gets sick less.

If you have a large plantation and it is older than 3-4 years, then you can follow the example of my friends.

There is another reason for completely cutting strawberry leaves with a scythe or secateurs (scissors) - this is a strong defeat of plantings by diseases and pests. After complete cutting (mowing) of the leaves, the plantation should be treated with some fungicide or pesticide. Be sure to feed your strawberries - help her quickly build up leaf mass.

It is not necessary to carry out mowing on young healthy plantings of strawberries, this depletes the bushes and you deprive yourself of the harvest.

How to care for strawberry beds after pruning or mowing

I will repeat myself a little, but this is very important.

Loosen the ground around the bushes.
Remove weeds.
Treat the plantation for diseases and pests.
Feed with mineral and organic fertilizers.
Water regularly if there is no rain during this period.
It is very important that the soil in the garden bed is wet all the time - this is necessary for the growth of young foliage.

That's all the simple rules. Now you know how and when to prune strawberries ( garden strawberries) after harvest. good harvest next year you are guaranteed!

Leaves are the most important plant organ. Thanks to them, the orchid receives sunlight and air. It is on them that the state of the plant is first determined. They are the first to signal that something is wrong with the flower. The condition of the leaves can determine the onset of the disease and take timely action.

The life cycle is the alternation of periods of growth and rest of the plant, as well as life expectancy. The lifespan of an orchid is 1 to 5 years. Some varieties live longer.

The dormant period has two phases:

biological;
forced.

period of biological dormancy different types very different: from 3 weeks to 5 months. At this time the following happens:

Growth ripening.
Vegetative and flower buds are laid.
The flower stores nutrients and prepares for the growth period.

If conditions are unfavorable, then the orchid enters the stage of forced dormancy. Until conditions become more suitable. The growth period is characterized by increased growth, bud maturation and flowering.

During this period, the plant needs:

Maximum illumination, but not direct sunlight.
Sufficient watering.
Top dressing.
Appropriate air temperature.

Important! Be sure to consider the life cycle of an orchid. Since in different periods she needs different care and conditions.

Do I need to prune the flower?

Experts disagree. Some allow such pruning, others do not. Some flower growers advise doing this if the orchid does not bloom. If there has been no flowering for more than a year, then the lower leaves are pruned.

It should be remembered that orchid leaves are an important organ. The more of them, the stronger it is and the faster it restores strength. Since through them the flower receives food.

And if the leaves are sick, then you can and should cut them off!

This is necessary in order to:

reduce the load on the plant;
to avoid further dissemination diseases or pests.

All details about correct pruning plants you will recognize in.

It is very simple and even a novice grower can do it. Healthy leaf:

green, uniform;
elastic (sluggish);
there are no spots, cracks, putrefactive formations on it;
the inside should also be healthy, pest-free.

Signs of diseased leaves:

Advice! If at least one of the signs is there, then you should pay attention to the health of the orchid. Such signs serve as a signal of a serious illness.

All further consequences

Two important points:

Common and unpleasant consequence- This is an infection and decay of the cut site. To avoid this, the cut point should be treated with charcoal, ground cinnamon or activated carbon.
plant weakening. If an orchid has lost a lot of leaves, then it becomes much weaker. Since it receives significantly less nutrition from sunlight. The result may be the death of the plant.

If pruning is performed in compliance with all the rules, recommendations, precautions, then nothing threatens the plant.

Step-by-step instruction

Instrument preparation

For trimming you will need:

garden pruner;
gloves;
disinfector;
cutting tool.

To disinfect the instrument, you can use:

alcohol solution;
chlorine solution;
potassium permanganate solution.

Before you start pruning, you need to carefully examine the plant. If children are found, then it is worth delaying pruning. The exceptions are those cases when the flower is sick and such pruning is a matter of life and death.

If the children are not found, then you can proceed. Pruning can be done in two ways.:

Step back from the root about 10 mm and cut the sheet with a sterile instrument. There should be a stump left. If the leaf is sick, then it is not necessary to remove it entirely. It is enough to retreat from the spot 10–15 mm. At the same time, the healthy part is preserved.
This method applies to the lower sheets (usually healthy ones). The leaf should be cut along the midline, and then torn to the very stem. After that, the halves must be carefully torn off the stem with your hands. After that, the orchid is not watered for several days to avoid decay.

Trimming should be done with a sterile instrument. After that, you can find: a young aerial root or a released arrow.

Attention! You can trim the leaves of an orchid only after flowering! To do this, you should wait until the flowers dry up and fall off.

Read about how to prune an orchid after flowering.

The cut point immediately the trimming field should be carefully powdered with charcoal or ground cinnamon. You can also use crushed activated charcoal.. This procedure contributes to the speedy healing of plant wounds. It also prevents bacterial and viral infections from entering the wound.

You will find step-by-step instructions and tips from experienced flower growers on pruning various parts of an orchid at.

What if you had to cut off all the leaves of the plant? The main point here is the cause of damage to the leaves.

There may be several reasons. This:

Wrong conditions of detention.
Wrong watering.
Diseases (it is necessary to examine the root, the reason may be there).

After finding out the reason, it will become clear what to do next. Once a diagnosis has been made, treatment must begin.. If the orchid cannot be cured (for example, it is rotten), then it should be disposed of in order to protect the rest of the plants.

Diseases in which the leaves are damaged:

Care

First of all, you should pay attention to the roots. If the roots are rotten, then you need to remove the flower from the pot, shake off the ground, dip the roots of the plant in warm water(pre-prepare a basin with warm water).
The roots are then dried. Diseased leaves and roots are removed. How to trim the roots correctly, you will learn.
If part of the root system remains, then such a plant can be planted again in a pot with soil. But now you have to strictly follow the rules for caring for an orchid.
The flower should be placed in the southwest or southeast. Avoid exposure to direct sunlight.
The temperature should be 30-33 degrees - during the day, 20-25 degrees - at night.
Avoid drafts.
The plant should be watered very carefully. At first, it is better to limit yourself to spraying the soil.
If there are no roots left, then the stem can be planted in a pot with wet moss. And try to grow roots.

Thus, the orchid can be brought back to life.

Attention! The main cause of leaf disease is root rot, which can be caused by diseases and excessive watering, as well as unsuitable conditions.

In order to properly care for an orchid, you need not only knowledge, but also experience. It is necessary to take into account many factors, to observe, to seek information, to consult with experienced flower growers. Orchid - capricious and delicate flower but her beauty is worth the effort.

When to prune strawberry leaves

It is necessary to cut the leaves not according to the dates of the calendar, but when the need arises - as they age. They begin to turn yellow with the end of fruiting. But if you pay attention, they turn yellow gradually, slowly, for about two weeks. At this time, it is better not to touch the leaves, but to continue to feed and water the strawberries - the future growth is invisible to the eye, the buds are forming.

Then the leaves turn yellow, dry out, become stained and become useless - this dying foliage needs to be cut out.

Strawberries are usually pruned in late July or early August, no later than after pruning, the plants quickly grow new young leaves.

The bushes cut off at the end of July by autumn are overgrown with new leaves.

There are no strict days and signs for pruning strawberries - massive yellowing and drying out - you can start at any time convenient for you, dry weather is favorable for the plant on a not hot day (the petioles remaining from pruning should dry out quickly, in wet weather they just start to rot from the cut point).

The hemp grower often has to use scissors, to limit the size of the bush or give it one shape or another. However, it also happens that in the box there is enough vertical and horizontal space for free growth, but you still can’t do without pruning and thinning, because your cannabis has turned into a green ball of branches and leaves impenetrable to the eye.

Of course, it is better if this situation does not take you by surprise. To do this, before buying seeds, do " homework". For example, browsing varieties in our catalog, pay attention to such a criterion as lateral branching. For many varieties, this information is indicated.

Another way to know if your cannabis will grow in a wide bush or "one snot" is to pay attention to how early the node buds appeared at the base of the leaves of your bush. If the plant has barely risen from the ground and has only three or four pairs of leaves, and the nodes have already begun to form, you are probably dealing with what our English-speaking colleagues call a "bush monster" (bush monster).

Let's also not forget that the shape of the crown also depends on the shape of the pot- hemp grown in narrow, tall pots, itself turns out to be narrow and tall; in wide and shallow - more undersized and bushy.

What is wrong with the abundance of side branches?

First, depending on the size of the pot, your cannabis may simply not have enough root mass to support all that abundant greenery, and most importantly, to form decent buds on each of the many branches.

Secondly, you will have a problem with providing the lower floors with sufficient light. Although the foliage is partially transparent to visible light, all the same, overcoming tier after tier, the light loses its intensity, and in addition, its spectrum changes. Red shades begin to predominate here, which cause the lower shoots to stretch. This takes a lot of energy, which other, more promising parts of the plant do not receive.

Thirdly, too much greenery can impair air circulation in the lower parts of the plant and near the stem. During the flowering stage, this can lead to mold and mildew, which will reduce your yield, and in the worst case, leave you with no buds at all.

How to keep crown density under control?

To begin with, deleting part of the branches will right decision in the vast majority of cases. Even growing hemp in open field, do not be lazy and remove two or three pairs of the lowest side shoots. This will ensure good air circulation in the most vulnerable place - near the ground, where there is less sun, and the temperature is lower and the humidity is higher. This will be a good prevention of mold development, not only in the lower part of the plant, but in general throughout its entire height.

It is even more important to do it in boxing. No matter how powerful the lamp you use and no matter how free (transparent to light) the crown is, the inflorescences at the tops will still receive many times more energy than those at the very bottom. There is a global physical principle - the force of interaction (in this case, light waves) is inversely proportional to the square of the distance. Growers with more experience sometimes get excellent harvests, removing lateral growth from the entire lower third of the plant.

Therefore, after waiting for your sprout to gain strength and really grow, start systematically removing the most bottom nodes(1-2-3 pairs, according to the situation). The main thing is not all at once, so as not to stress the plant. Thus, you will remove unnecessary shoots even before energy is spent on their growth.

The same can be done in the later stages of the veg, as well as in the first week or two after the transition to color. Graduality is also important here: today there is one lower shoot, tomorrow or the day after tomorrow - another.

If gradually fails, do a large pruning at least a week, and preferably two, before transferring to color.

Which is better to remove: branches or leaves?

Looking at your huge green ball, you involuntarily think about what to donate, mugs or branches? You can immediately answer one thing - do not touch the upper fan leaves! They may be huge, they may not let light into the lower floors, but they are involved in photosynthesis much more actively than older leaves would do, even if they received the same amount of light. Cutting off more efficient young foliage to improve the illumination of old ones is an unforgivable mistake.

As for the old leaves, everything is somewhat more complicated. In its life cycle, the leaf goes through a certain peak, when its production of energy (in the form of glucose) is maximum. Further, the process goes downhill. Does this mean that after passing the peak, the leaf is already useless and consumes more energy than it produces? Fans of defoliation will tell you yes. It is not certain that they are right.

The energy accumulated by the leaf does not go anywhere. It is sucked out of the old leaf and sent to the young shoots. Everyone who has grown marijuana has watched the leaves turn yellow at the end of their life cycle: first at the very bottom, then higher and higher. It is they who give away nutrients (including nitrogen), and only after giving everything to the drop, already withered, fall off. Especially important role old foliage - as a source of energy and nutrients - plays in cases where the pot is small and the root system is not very developed. In fact, in this case, the old leaves take on the role of roots in providing nutrients to the aerial parts. You wouldn't cut off the roots in the hope of increasing the yield, would you? Don't touch the leaves if you don't need to.

So, when solving a question (branches or leaves), take a closer look at the branches first. If they are critically far from the lamp, if several upper tiers completely block them from the light, if they stretch upwards, forming long internodes, then they only take energy from the upper parts of the plant, and they will not give cones. So you need to get rid of them. Maybe you feel sorry for removing them after the plant has spent so much energy on them? OK, leave it and they'll keep sucking it out vitality, and all to no avail.

With the lower branches sorted out. Now: what to do with the middle part of the plant, if there is also wilds there? You will obviously not touch the primary side branches. The question is, should you remove the fan leaves and secondary shoots (offering from the primary side branches)? If you think that there is stagnation of air here, fraught with mold, then apparently something will have to be removed. Personally, I would remove the shoots again. If you remove the burdock, then the crown will become lighter for a day or two, and then an overgrown secondary shoot will take this place, and again the jungle.

There is another trick. If you think that the giant fan leaf is already old enough and only hinders the development of what is under it, tuck it under the underlying stem. Now it does not interfere with the light, but it will continue to serve as a source of energy and nutrition. You can go even further - fold the fan sheet tucked down finger to finger and fasten it with a paper clip or tie it with a thread. I did. The crown becomes noticeably more transparent, but I did not notice any problems.

With that said, defoliation is used by many radical growers. Read these two articles that portray defoliation and stress as key points success:

How exactly do you trim?

The first rule is understanding. Give a clear answer to the question why you are doing this. So that the plant does not waste energy on unpromising branches? So that all promising branches get enough light? So that there are no more branches than the root system is able to "pull"? So that air does not stagnate in the crown? All of these are good reasons.
The second rule is consistency. Plan in advance what you want to remove and stretch this process over time. When cutting the living part of the plant, a special hormone is produced that inhibits growth. The more you cut at once, the greater the likelihood of stress. Stress can completely stop growth for a while - until the plant recovers. True, the same hormone that stops growth seems to promote the swelling of the inflorescences. Perhaps that is why it is so widely believed that stress increases productivity. It is important to remember that there is a difference between mild stress and bullying. By subjecting a plant to torture, you are unlikely to force it to produce a larger crop.
Rule three - when cutting branches or leaves, try to do it in the least traumatic way. There is no agreement yet. Someone advises using the sharpest tool, someone believes that the sharper the tool was, the longer the wound will “bleed”, and, on the contrary, advises blunt scissors, which do not cut cells so much as crush them. If you prefer the first method, you can try covering the wound with honey. If you prefer the second one, then you can do this: soften / break the branch at the place of the intended cut, so that it hangs, but do not cut it right away, but wait a day. During this time, the wound will dry out, and when you cut the branch, the wound will no longer be so susceptible to the attacks of various diseases. Whichever method you choose, remember that the instrument must be sterile.

And finally some tips, how, without resorting to cropping, to solve or at least mitigate the problem of excessive density:

Put powerful fan, which will blow through the crown.
Use a fan to make the top leaves flutter. In this case, more light will slip to the lower tiers.
Paint the walls of the box with white paint or cover them with reflective material.
Place an additional ESL lamp to illuminate the lower part of the crown.

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Good luck everyone!

Over time, many plants become unkempt. They do not please, but only depress their owners. Alya restoration of decorativeness and rejuvenation of plants use pruning. Removing and limiting the growth of certain shoots causes the plants to develop in a certain shape and direction. For indoor plants pruning is very important because it allows you to maintain a balance between the ground part of the plant and its root system, the size of which is limited by the size of the pot. In addition, pruning improves appearance plants and stimulates the development of dormant buds, making flowering more abundant. In some plants, flowers are formed only on young shoots, so pruning is necessary to enhance flowering.

There are several types of pruning: sanitary, rejuvenating and shaping. The purpose of sanitary pruning is to remove weakened old shoots, which are often easy prey for fungi and bacteria and a breeding ground for insect pests. Anti-aging pruning is done to stimulate the growth of new young branches to replace the old ones. Anti-aging pruning is especially needed for those plants that develop long shoots that lose leaves over time. It is also necessary if the shoots are exposed from high temperature or dry air in winter. This often happens, for example, with pelargoniums and hydrangeas. After rejuvenating pruning, many powerful, healthy shoots grow.

When should houseplants be pruned?

As a rule, pruning is done after a period of dormancy or flowering. It is better not to combine pruning with transplanting, as this may slow down the growth of new shoots. Many plants need to be pruned annually. Never cut plants at random, be sure to read the recommendations for each species first. Some plants may not bloom after pruning, while others will grow without pruning and become ugly. Best time for pruning - spring. Pruning is done after a dormant period. Cuts are made over outward-facing leaves, otherwise new shoots will grow inward. The cut should be made a few millimeters above the kidney and go away from it, slightly obliquely.

What are the rules for pruning?

For pruning, you need to use sharp and clean tools - secateurs, scissors or a knife. In plants with milky juice, the cut point must be carefully burned with a burning match. Large lesions can be sprinkled with crushed charcoal to reduce the risk of infection. It is very important that the cut be smooth, without damage to the cortex and cambium underneath, because the growing cambium will close the wound. Remember that wood is not capable of regeneration, so it must be protected. Plants should be pruned above the bud facing outward from the crown so that the branches do not grow inward and do not intertwine. When pruning, moving to a new plant, be sure to disinfect the blade with alcohol, miramistin or other antiseptics.

What is pinching indoor plants?

Pinching - pinching off the top of the shoot with your fingers - is used to enhance the branching of very young shoots. They are so tender that you can do without secateurs. Pinching is also used to enhance branching, since the removal of the apical bud allows lateral shoots to develop. Pinch the plant usually over the first pair of leaves. In order for cuttings or young plants to branch well and not stretch upward, you need to slow down their growth in height by pinching off the tops of the shoots. It should be borne in mind that pinching the apical bud does not immediately lead to the development of lateral shoots. Sometimes this takes quite a long time.

In some plants, flowers form only on young shoots, therefore, to enhance branching and, accordingly, more abundant flowering, pinching them is vital. Such a plant, for example, is the “Decembrist” - the Schlumbergera cactus. It is recommended to pinch the shoots after flowering. It is necessary to choose a separation point, hold the lower stem segment between the index and thumb of one hand, and separate the upper one with a rotational movement. One or two segments of each stem should be separated in this way. Never cut segments! As a result, flowering will be more abundant, as strong stems will be formed that can carry more flowers. In addition, a well-formed Schlumberger is much lives longer- some specimens bloom and grow for 20 years or more.

How to prune indoor flowers?

It depends on the type of pruning and its purpose. In the process of sanitary pruning, dead and drying shoots and, in general, all unhealthy parts of the plant are cut out. You need to cut the shoot down to healthy tissue; if the shoot starts underground, it must be removed to the very base. With anti-aging pruning, 3-5 buds are left on the shoot. Of these, new, strong shoots will later develop. Do not spare pruned branches: the more radical the pruning, the more actively the remaining shoots will grow. It's okay if you remove up to 90% of the shoot length. After rejuvenating pruning, do not forget to feed the plant to provide it with opportunities for rapid growth. Shaping pruning allows you to achieve a certain shape. So you can get a compact bush, a ball, a standard tree, a pyramid and other more complex shapes. This is the most difficult type of pruning, because for each specific plant and for each form, a different order of pruning shoots is needed.

How to form a compact bush?

Many plants look most attractive and thrive best when grown into a compact bush. These plants include Indian Azalea (Azalea indica), Achimenes (Achimenes), Coleus (Coleus), Balsam (Impatiens), Beloperone (Beloperone), Brovallia (Browallia), Hibiscus (Hibiscus) and many others. To form a bush in a young plant at a height of 6-7 cm, pinch the top of the main shoot. Lateral shoots, after reaching a height of 10-12 cm, are also pinched. When is formed beautiful bush, you need to periodically pluck or cut out the shoots directed inward, it is better at the very beginning of their appearance. Azalea is an example. After the first pinching, three shoots are left (they are called shoots of the 1st order), after the 2nd pinching, 2 shoots are left on each shoot of the 1st order, then during subsequent pinching, the number of shoots left is alternated in this way: 3-2-3- 2 etc.

How to form a stem tree?

A trunk in horticulture is called a tree trunk from the ground to the first branch of the crown. In a sense, almost all trees are standard trees. In a narrower sense, a standard form is an artificially formed (by cutting, grafting) relatively small tree. Many houseplants shaped like a standard village look very attractive. It is convenient to focus on the following dimensions: a desktop village 30-45 cm high, a low village 45-80 cm high and a standard tree 80-105 cm high. standard tree take a strong rooted cutting, growing vertically upwards. Then removed side shoots until the plant reaches the desired height. When this height is reached, the top of the plant is cut off and 5-6 lateral shoots are allowed to develop, which will be the top of the standard tree. All leaves at the base of the stem are removed, and then the crown is formed into the desired shape. In the form of a trunk, you can grow roses, pelargoniums, fuchsias ...

How to form an arc?

Ampelous and climbing plants form long shoots that can be launched along a wire arc. Stephanotis, Passiflora, Bougainvillea glabra, Dipladenia, Jasminum and other plants can be grown in this way. To do this, the arched support is carefully inserted into the pot. Then the shoots are distributed along the wire, and in some places they are loosely tied with woolen thread or soft braid.

How to form curly shapes?

Some plants lend themselves easily to shearing or solid pruning. It is produced without taking into account the branches, and this allows you to form almost any shape. There are very few such plants, but they still exist. Houseplants include evergreen boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), large-fruited cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and winter heather (Erica hiemalis).