The fruiting and growth of apricot trees in your garden will depend on compliance with the rules for caring for them. Apricot is a fairly light-loving crop, but at the same time it is distinguished by thick branched branches that can hide young branches from the sun, preventing them from developing, blooming and setting full-fledged fruits.
Therefore, a prerequisite for caring for an apricot, especially an old one, is its rejuvenation, which is achieved by regular pruning.
Types of pruning apricot
The main feature of the apricot is that this tree is growing very fast and lays many generative buds. Due to the fact that the crown has a strong branching, and the tree is overloaded with fruits, this provokes the cause of the development of various diseases, the drying of the branches and the deterioration of their fruitful function. That is why it is necessary to prune trees three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. But it is worth paying attention to the fact that autumn pruning need only varieties of medium and early term ripeness.
In each season, depending on the purpose, a different type of pruning is performed:
- formative;
- regulatory;
- rejuvenating;
- restorative;
- sanitary.
In autumn, as a rule, shaping, rejuvenating and regulating pruning of the tree is carried out. Forming in this case is carried out only on young trees. It helps to form a certain type of crown, and also stimulates the growth of branches for the early start of fruiting.
If you leave the crown in its natural shape, you will not be able to get a bountiful harvest. In addition, over time, the fruits begin to shrink, lose their presentation and excellent taste.
Strong shaping pruning stops in the second or third year, when there is a transition period in the life of the plant, that is, before the start of its fruiting. During this period, it is necessary to shorten only the branches growing inward and thickening to lighten the plant.
Regulatory pruning should be carried out after the tree enters the fruiting period. Its main task is to maintain a physiological balance between growth and shoot yield.
Pruning trees for the purpose of rejuvenation is necessary only for adults who have a weak growth of shoots, that is, they grow no more than 20 cm per year. This procedure can enhance the growth of old branches and stimulates the appearance of young ones. In addition, the tree will become resistant and strong with respect to temperature differences.
If pests or any diseases were noticed in an apricot, it is necessary to carry out in the fall tree trimming. The essence of this procedure is to remove diseased or damaged branches, followed by the use of special preparations for diseases and pests.
Autumn pruning is a great way to prepare an apricot tree for frost and increase its yield for next season. Trimming a tree is recommended in a complex way, combining all types of autumn pruning with each other. If after that the apricot will winter safely, then it will not need restorative pruning with the onset of spring, which is important for gardeners who save their time.
Procedure time
Speaking about the conditions of the regions located in middle lane our country, it is not too late to prune apricot trees. The cold and rainy season often makes the trees weak, which negatively affects their wintering. To prevent wounds from healing after pruning long time The air temperature during this event should be at least 8 degrees.
The optimal time for this procedure is the period from 5 to 15 October. On the territory of the southern regions, apricots can be cut at a later date, starting from the end of October and ending in November. In the northern regions, pruning of apricot trees is carried out in September.
Especially important point is to prune trees in the first five years of life, while forming the correct crown. After that, in the fall, apricots can be cut irregularly, once every two years. Some gardeners prune their apricot trees only in the spring, removing only dead branches.
Necessary tools and materials
Before proceeding with the main procedure, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:
- garden knife;
- secateurs;
- hand saw;
- garden pitch;
- retractable ladder.
When all the tools are prepared, you can proceed directly to the formation of the crown of a young apricot tree.
crown formation
To form the crown of a tree, you need to know how to properly prune an apricot. The main task formative autumn pruning is to create conditions under which the tree will evenly distribute nutrients to the main fruit-bearing branches, so it is necessary to early age tree, follow the formation of the apricot trunk and the placement of skeletal branches on it.
Young branches should not be severely shortened until the tree is strong.. When you notice that the growth of greenery on a young apricot is more than 40 cm, you need to decide on the type of crown formation.
Most often, these fruit crops form the crown according to a sparse-tiered method, which implies from 5 to 7 main branches, which are located at a distance of 30 to 40 cm from each other.
Less common are apricots with a flattened or cupped crown, which is characterized by a single untiered placement of branches.
So, pruning apricot to form a sparse-tiered crown must be carried out in the following sequence.
If you have a limited area of \u200b\u200bthe site, then the crown flattening method is used. With the growth of the apricot, only seven skeletal branches are left at a distance that will be convenient for a particular garden plot. The advantage of a flattened crown is that fruiting will occur quite early. But at the same time, it is worth noting that an adult apricot tree with a flattened crown will produce a low yield of poor quality.
The right action for maximum results
If you want to achieve maximum effect from autumn apricot pruning, the following recommendations should be taken into account.
If you have any doubts about how you prune an apricot, a video from experienced gardeners can help you.
Care after pruning
Caring for an apricot tree after pruning involves treating the cut surfaces using garden pitch. This procedure must be performed immediately after you have removed the branches, since after 2-4 hours the sap flow along the branches can become so strong that no putty will help, and the juice flowing down the bark will be a nutrient sphere for various pests. Garden pitch for putty can be bought at a specialized store or made by hand at home.
There are several recipes for making garden var.
Instead of garden pitch, you can use blue vitriol, oil paint on natural drying oil or simple clay. It is necessary to take into account the fact that on large wounds, the putty may fall apart before it heals. In such cases, the mixture is applied to the wound again.
It is important to note that synthetic paint and fresh manure should never be used to putty on wounds, as they can cause burns to the wood tissue, which are then heavily tightened.
If you want to achieve best result after the apricot pruning procedure, do not ignore other care activities: mulching, watering, protection from diseases and pests.
If you follow all practical advice by pruning apricots in the fall, which were described above, you will be able to correctly form the crown of your fruit-bearing tree. Depending on the age of the tree and the purpose of the pruning, you can decide when to prune the apricot - in spring or autumn. Remember that viable and healthy fruit tree will bring every season a plentiful harvest of sweet and juicy fruits, which are so loved by children and adults.
Apricot is characterized by rapid growth of shoots, as a result of which its crown is strongly overgrown, which significantly reduces productivity. In addition, over time, the tree ages and ceases to bear fruit. To extend the life of a tree and improve its functionality, timely maintenance should be carried out. spring pruning, including anti-aging.
About when and how to prune an apricot in the spring, read further in our detailed article.
Why prune apricots: the purpose and objectives of spring pruning
So, the main and ultimate goal of pruning an apricot (like any other plant) is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as taking care of the health of the tree itself (so that it bears fruit for as long as possible).
Thus, by cutting an apricot in the spring, you solve the following tasks aimed at achieving the above goal:
- improved access to sunlight;
- ensuring optimal ventilation inside the crown;
- disease prevention.
In other words, apricot pruning is carried out in order to:
- correctly form a tree so that it has a comfortable crown and gives stable yields;
Also, thanks to the formation of the correct crown by cutting it behind the tree, it becomes convenient to take care of and the most important thing - harvest.
- adjust the growth of the tree, i.e. increase or decrease;
- eliminate the frequency of fruiting (so that there is no situation when one year the plant bears fruit very abundantly, and the next there is nothing);
- increase the quality of fruits (after proper pruning, the fruits become larger and more tasty).
When to prune apricots in spring: the best timing
Spring pruning of apricots must be done before sap flow(those. before bud break), in other words, when the tree should still be sleeping.
If you decide to prune during active sap flow, then the apricot may begin gumming.
Arguably! At the same time, some gardeners advise to carry out the procedure when sub-zero temperatures are still confidently holding (but not lower than -10 degrees), while others recommend that the air temperature, on the contrary, be positive (about +5). In any case, the duration of the pruning period is until the buds open.
Of course, it is quite difficult to name the exact dates: spring in different regions Depending on the climate, it starts at different time. The main thing is to be in time before the start of sap flow.
However, one can call approximate (approximate) terms. So, apricot pruning in the spring in the Middle lane (Moscow region), as a rule, is carried out already at the end of March - beginning of April, in the South of Russia - at the end of February-March. And in the more northern (in the North-West - in the Leningrad region) and cold regions (in the Urals and Siberia), spring pruning of apricots is carried out in the second half of April.
When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn
According to most agronomists, the most best time for pruning fruit trees early spring, and it is necessary to have time before sap flow. Also, the shorter the time between pruning and sap flow, the better. In addition to saving energy, with the beginning of sap flow, the tree’s own defense mechanisms are “turned on”, which means that pathogenic organisms have practically no chance to penetrate inside the “tree system”.
As for the autumn pruning, it noticeably weakens the trees, their winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, it is believed that in autumn only winter-hardy breeds (varieties) that tolerate frost well and are not at all afraid of freezing can be cut.
Note! There is a rather indisputable opinion that in autumn only pome crops (apple trees, pears) can be cut, but stone fruits (apricots, peaches, plums, cherries) - only in spring.
In addition, in autumn, trees, on the contrary, suspend all active defense (their own defense mechanisms), while fungal spores still fly in myriads. In addition, when frost sets in, the cambium freezes over, and the healing of wounds after pruning is difficult.
So cut the apricot better in spring. Autumn pruning is resorted to only if in the spring you have little time (you did not have time) or / and the variety is frost-resistant enough.
As for the time, the autumn pruning of the apricot can begin when all the leaves of the tree have completely fallen off. At the same time, it is important that the air temperature is positive, since pruning must be completely stopped already at a temperature of -5 degrees. It is under such conditions that the wood freezes and becomes brittle and brittle.
Preparing for spring pruning of apricots
Every novice gardener must first understand the structure and structure of his apricot tree himself, in order to better understand the basic rules for pruning it. And, of course, to have all the required tools in your country arsenal. Let's start with them.
Tools
To perform apricot pruning work, you will need the following tools and tools for treating wounds after pruning:
Advice! All tools must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruner must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (and even better, disinfect it before cutting).
Tree structure: its structure
Before you start pruning, carefully inspect your apricot tree, its silhouette. And then figure out which branches obviously look superfluous (in accordance with the rules below) and only after that proceed with direct pruning.
According to the rules, any tree should have a balanced or, more precisely, a crown that is evenly branched in all directions.
Thus, in order to carry out pruning according to all the rules, it is necessary to know the structure of the tree. Therefore, you should first study and understand its structure:
You also need to be able to distinguish branch age, which is determined by annual kidney rings located at the base of annual growths.
It is also important to distinguish kidney types:
- vegetative (growth, leaf) - from which new shoots and leaves develop (they are smaller and easy to see on a one-year growth);
- fruit (floral) - from which flowers are first formed, and then fruits (larger ones, located on fruit wood).
By the way! Flower buds can also form on annual growths, especially in apricots. Although fruit wood is usually called 2-6 year old wood.
Fruit formations of apricot (like all stone fruits) are spurs or thorns, bouquet twigs. Although by mistake (by analogy with apple trees and pears, i.e. pome fruits), they are called spears and fruit twigs.
In any case, you should be able to easily distinguish fruit formations and twigs so that they are not accidentally removed when pruning!
Video: apricot fruit formations - spear (thorns), twigs
Types and methods of trimming
Before moving on to the types and methods of pruning, you should familiarize yourself with the age periods that each fruit tree goes through:
- height vegetative parts;
- growth and fruiting (from the first fruiting to stable yields);
- fruiting and growth (from stable fruiting to maximum yield, while the activity of growth processes gradually decreases);
- fruiting(maximum yield);
- fruiting and shrinkage(growth processes fade, fruiting begins to decline).
According to them, there are various pruning types:
- Formative(for young trees) - helps to form a crown correct form and create a strong tree skeleton.
- Regulatory(for fruit-bearing) - to regulate fruiting.
- Anti-aging- (for old trees) - for their rejuvenation. However, it is usually held in several stages every spring.
- Sanitary- is used for trees of all ages in order to clean the crown from diseased, dried and broken branches. It is carried out as needed, regardless of the season.
There are also trimming methods(which are sometimes erroneously called species):
- Shortening - during such pruning, the shoots are not cut off completely “on the ring”, but only shortened by the "kidney"(as a rule, to the external), which helps to enhance the branching of skeletal branches and stimulate fruit formations, and also serves to subordinate branches and rejuvenate wood.
You can shorten both annual growth and perennial branches.
Shortening is of 3 types: strong (by 1/3), medium (by 1/4) and weak (by 1/5).
Strong - for the formation of strong shoots, weak - for laying fruit wood.
- thinning- is carried out in order to rid the tree of excess shoots that thicken and obscure the crown. In this case, the branches are completely removed "on the ring".
Remember! The more light will fall on the branches, so higher will productivity. A no thickening and good air circulation inside the branches - reliable protection against fungal diseases.
Basic rules and techniques for pruning apricots
Consider how to proceed during pruning: how to hold a pruner and how to directly trim the branches.
The principle of subordination of branches
It is very important to comply principle of subordination of branches, that is, all side branches (skeletal branches) are subordinate to the conductor (central trunk) and should not be higher than it. This also applies to growth on skeletal branches.
How to hold a pruner
Pruner cutting blade should be always down.
Wrong, If the secateurs are facing the shoot down with an emphasis, not a blade.
When you delete branch completely, then the cut is made “on the ring” (most often “on the transfer”), When cut only part, That "on the kidney". Let's consider further in more detail.
Pruning "on the kidney"
The essence of this pruning is that when you thin out the crown, it is not at all necessary to cut the young branch completely. It is much more efficient to cut it to the outer bud (looking outward up, and not inward or downward) to change the direction of its growth. In this case, it is necessary to cut in such a way that the top of the cut reaches the top of the kidney, and the base of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney. Then the cut will heal well.
Worth knowing! Do not get carried away with pruning "on the kidney", because. many small cuts weaken the tree much more than several large ones.
Important! Need to cut on the growth (vegetative) kidney, but not on the flower (fruit). See differences above (vegetative less than fruit).
Trimming "on the ring"
The point is to completely cut the branch, and you need to cut it along the trunk (along the annular influx - a thickened influx at the base of the branch), namely, the saw line should run along the bisector between the axis of the trunk and be perpendicular to the line to the branch.
Rules for 3 cuts (cuts)
When pruning old and thick branches on the "ring" follow the rule of three cuts (cuts):
- It is always necessary to cut down a branch from below, otherwise it may break under its own weight (gravity), which causes a bark scuff (similar to a torn burr on a finger). Thus, during the first cut, the branch is cut off by 1/3.
- The next gash is already done from above, while it is noticeably higher than the first. As a result, the branch is cut off completely (otherwise it may break off).
- As a result, you will form a stump, which will need to be cut down with the third gash, while making it exactly “along the ring” on top (perpendicular to the trunk of the branch), leaving an annular overlap.
If burrs remain, they should be cut with a sharp garden knife.
Only in this way will you get a neat and correct cut.
Trimming "for translation"
cut branches "on the ring" need to only for translation, i.e., on a branch or shoot, which will further provide the cut with nutrients and heal it. In this case, the branch (shoot) of the support should not be thinner than 1/3 of the cut diameter.
Other important rules clippings:
- The cut should be balanced. If severely cut, the plant will give many shoots and the yield will be low. If, on the contrary, pruning is weak, then the harvest will be too much and there may be a periodicity of fruiting (there will be nothing next year). Usually, at once recommended cut no more than 1/4-1/3 of the crown, this especially applies to old trees, including when they are “rejuvenated”.
- Vertical branches (tops) actively grow, and horizontal ones bear fruit.
Treatment of wounds (cuts) after trimming
The wounds (cuts) remaining after trimming must be processed according to all the rules:
- So that moisture does not get into the cut and rotting does not begin (due to a fungal or bacterial infection falling into the cut), it should be covered special tool. Typically, this is used garden var.
Important! According to some gardeners, garden pitch does more harm than good. now more efficient and useful tool for the treatment of wounds after pruning is a garden putty paste "RanNet". However, if there are still frosts (even small ones), then processing will be more efficient. oil paint , because garden pitch and RanNet paste at sub-zero temperatures I can freeze and peel off. Also suitable natural drying oil, linseed oil And brilliant green(all do not freeze). And you can mix 1 to 1 iodine and alcohol.
- Obviously, than less area cut, the easier it is for the tree to heal the wound. So if cut with a diameter of up to 2-3 cm, then it is not glossed over at all. At very large cuts, only the edges need to be processed to protect the cambium from drying out.
- It is especially important to cover big cuts that are being made on the ring" on skeletal branches And bole.
If cancerous ulcers form on them, then it will be very difficult to cure them, which means you can lose a skeletal branch or, even worse, the whole tree (if on a trunk).
- But when cutting "on the kidney" cut diameter is small enough does not need processing.
Video: how to properly process cuts of fruit trees
What branches to cut and prune at an apricot in spring
Now let's consider which branches are to be completely removed, and which ones only need to be cut.
ATTENTION! Be sure to read the material to the end and only after that proceed to trimming your apricot.
In order not to harm the plant instead of benefit, it is required to strictly follow the rules of pruning.
- First of all, you need to remove all diseased branches. And they need to be set aside separately, and then destroyed, burned.
Important! Bbare must be cut to healthy wood. However, it is desirable to do so "on the ring" method "for translation".
- Also, all broken and broken branches, which are most likely also affected by some kind of disease.
- Gotta get rid of everyone crooked branches(growing through other branches or crossing, " rubbing against each other") and from branches growing inside the crown that shade the good branches.
By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting "on the ring"), or you can transfer "to fruiting" by cutting off "on the kidney", while it should look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be meaningless).
- Absolutely no need for branches growing under very acute angle(i.e. their departure angle is less than 40-45 degrees) and forming the so-called "forks". They are also cut
Due to the load of fruits, such a branch can simply crack and form a strong wound.
- As you understood from the figure above, in addition, you need cut off all branches growing down(obtuse angle).
- Subject to removal all tops(vertical shoots on skeletal branches, they are also called " wen"), and root suckers.
- Also need to cut all shoots below the first tier(so they don't hang directly above the ground).
In short, to be pruned all unnecessary and interfering branches, which thicken and shade the crown, and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree.
- Very important leave no competing branches(or thus replace the old ones with new ones), cutting them off "for translation".
This is especially true for branches that compete with the conductor (main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.
However, thick branches should not be cut in one year. It's better to remove it first. most branches of the second order, and the next year to get rid of the competitor completely.
- For the best branching and stimulation of fruit formations can be shortened "on the kidney" 1/3 (to the outer kidney), all continuation branches — one year growth.
Note! There is no need to shorten the already short branches (up to 20-30 cm), on the tips of which there are flower (fruit) buds - they carry the entire crop. Long (more than 40-50 cm) annual growth branches (with vegetative buds) are subject to pruning.
Thus, by pruning a tree, you can change its branching direction. At the same time, it is necessary that the apricot dominated by horizontal branches. From vertical either worth it get rid of completely or artificially redirect them.
How to prune young and old apricots: shaping and rejuvenating pruning
Depending on the age of the trees, the specifics of pruning also differ - the formation of a young apricot (from the moment the seedling was planted) and the rejuvenation of the old culture.
For young seedlings, a shaping procedure is carried out, which helps to form the crown and strengthen the skeleton of the tree. For old trees, a rejuvenating procedure is applied, the purpose of which is to restore the regularity of fruiting.
Methods (types) of apricot formation: types of crowns
Any pruning must be repelled from the shaping!
However, you need to understand that shaping and trimming are different actions. If you can still “be weird” with the shaping (go into creativity), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.
The method of formation depends on the strength of growth of the apricot (variety) (which stock is weak, medium or strong), the ability to branch. It is also important to know what you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully designed tree.
Types of tree crowns
- discharged-tiered;
One of the most popular types of fruit tree formation, including apricot.
- cup-shaped (vase-shaped);
The second most popular type of shaping and perhaps the most popular for shaping an apricot.
- fusiform (Spindle bush);
- flat forms - palmettes and cordons;
- and many others.
The theory of forming an apricot in the form of a bowl is described in detail and clearly shown in the following videos:
Video: pruning apricot 1 year after planting for future bowl shaping
Video: pruning apricot 2 years after planting (bowl shaping)
Discharged-tiered apricot formation: pruning of a 1,2,3,4-year-old tree
As a rule, a young apricot is formed every spring, however, autumn shaping pruning is also allowed (but very undesirable).
Note! Which branches to remove and which ones to leave, exactly how to cut them - everything is detailed and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraphs.
Note! .
- right after spring planting (i.e. we already have a 1 or 2-year-old seedling) - the main branch (central conductor) is cut off, or rather the top of 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that side branches form on the tree, otherwise speaking, the first tier was formed.
It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.
- for 2 years- the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut to 1/3 of their length (on the outer bud), and only 2-3 of the strongest (ideally - 3) should be left, growing horizontally in different directions, and the rest should be cut “on the ring” ". You should also cut the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost side branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. AND do not forget about subordination (pruning should be carried out at the same level).
Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier - 10-15 cm. The height of the stem is 50-80 cm (but 80-100 cm is also possible).
- for 3 years- the side branches are cut again, as well as the young growth (second-order branches) on these branches, again by 1/3, “on the kidney”. In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally - 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3. The top of the central trunk is cut again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.
The central conductor (main trunk) should be one, so all its competitors should be cut off "on the ring".
- for 4 years — Last year apricot formations (if you form in 3 tiers). Everything is done in the same way as the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut “on the ring”, by transferring to the side branch (3 branch).
Remember to follow the principle subordination of branches, 1st tier - the longest branches, 2nd tier - shorter, 3rd tier - the shortest.
- For 5 years and beyond it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also not to lose sight of sanitary and thinning.
Advice! Optimal Height a tree from which it is convenient to harvest - no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even 2-3 meters is better.
How to form an apricot in the form of a bowl: pruning 1, 2 year old tree
If you want to form an apricot in the form of a bowl (simple), then pruning is carried out in the following sequence (by year):
- Immediately after spring planting or at 1 year- if there are no branches (side branches) on the seedling, you need to cut the main branch (central conductor) to a height of 50-60 cm (60-80 is possible) so that side branches form on the tree.
Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted., i.e. if the seedling already has ramifications, so see the next step.
- Next year (year 2) the tree forms lateral branches, which should be reproached by 1/3 (leaving 30-50 cm) on the outer bud. At the same time, you need to leave only 3-4 of the strongest (growing close to the ground are also not suitable), growing at an angle (rather horizontally than vertically) in different directions. Also, by transferring to a lateral shoot, the top should be cut off “on the ring”.
- For the 2nd or 3rd year. One-year increments formed on each of the side branches. Now you need to choose 2-3 shoots on each of the branches, and cut out all the rest, which are located close to the stem and thicken the crown, “into a ring”. 2-3 remaining shoots are shortened by about 1/3, leaving 30-50 cm each.
As a result, your tree in the form of a bowl should have 8-12 main branches (3-4 of the first order and 4-8 of the second), from which you will receive crops from year to year.
Naturally, in the future you will have to cut them off - regulate their growth and carry out anti-aging pruning.
Video: shaping an apricot in the shape of a late or late bowl
Important! Don't forget in autumn or late winter- in early spring, especially young ones, because they still have a thin bark and can easily burn it. They are bleached to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter, when the trees on the south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, also reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash, but shade from the south side, for example, wide board either wrap nonwoven fabric(spunbond).
Video: forming apricot with a low crown (cupped shape)
Rejuvenation of an old apricot
If you have an old apricot tree in your garden that bears little fruit, then in order to improve the yield and increase its lifespan, you can and should carry out its anti-aging pruning.
Important! The main sign of the need for rejuvenating apricot pruning is a weak annual growth of branches - less than 20 cm.
However, first you should make sure that the selected tree is old, but healthy, in other words, whether it is sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten its death.
The essence of rejuvenating apricot pruning in spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more prolific ones.
Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate, not everything (which will be listed below) should be cut in the first year.
If you remove too many branches at once then an apricot, maybe wind up(release a lot of tops). However, everything can be easy fix summer pinch(removal of green young shoots - tops, if they grew "in the wrong place" or went to grow "in the wrong place").
Step-by-step instruction anti-aging pruning of an old apricot in spring:
Remember! You need to cut “on the ring” only by removing it “for translation” (on lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.
- First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches (sanitary pruning) are subject to removal.
- Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches, which literally sag above the ground.
- Completely cut out “on the ring” all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and obscure the crown (crowns growing inward, crossing, competing, growing with a “fork”).
When rejuvenating, advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut or cut (“on a kidney”) a huge number of young thin shoots.
- Get rid of all the tops (vertical branches - "wen"), again, "on the ring."
- Pinch off (cut to a "bud") all young shoots that are more than 40-50 cm high.
Video: correct rejuvenating apricot pruning in spring
You can also watch this detailed video about the principles of rejuvenating pruning of old trees:
Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning
By the way! Exists cardinal way to rejuvenate a very old apricot(trimming to stumps). You can see about it in the following video:
Video: hard pruning apricot
How to hold the crown or what to do if the tree grows up
Obviously, trees should not be left unattended. It is enough not to cut the apricot for a couple of years so that it “flies” up.
Of course, you can do nothing, but so that you can Fine harvest and conduct treatment of apricot from diseases and pests, it is simply necessary to restrain the crown of the tree.
That is why in the first place in this situation it is necessary to carry out thinning pruning, and at the end - remove all the tallest vertical shoots " to the ring by transfer " on the side, in other words, to transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.
However, it is not worth cutting all the vertical branches at a time, but you can increase their fruiting by making small branches above each vegetative (growth) bud. notches hacksaw, which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will be laid.
Can also be shortened by 1/3 all last year's growth, which was formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top "on the kidney".
And in this way you need to do it every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and every year give a one-year increase.
Video: how to cut an apricot to hold the crown and save the harvest
and complementary:
Popular mistakes that occur during the spring pruning of apricots for novice garden surgeons
The most common mistake when pruning apricots and other fruit trees is incorrect pruning. "on the kidney" when pruning is done either below the kidney (in this case, it may freeze out), or too large a stump is left (which simply does not heal, it can rot and an infection is sure to get through it). Make the right cut just above the kidney. Wherein bud should be at the level bottom cut.
Likewise for cropping "on the ring" when you leave too much foam, on which completely useless branches then grow, only taking away strength from the tree. Moreover, the stump itself gradually begins to rot, its bark exfoliates. It is also impossible (even more dangerous) to cut too low, with the removal of the ring.
Other common mistakes performed by beginners during the spring pruning of apricots:
- Pruning is done in wrong timing. The worst time for pruning is the middle of summer, so if you carry out the procedure at this time, you can weaken the tree for a long time and slow down its growth. Better then in the fall (after leaf fall), but optimally - in early spring, before bud break.
- Not cut out diseased, dry and broken branches (sanitary pruning is not carried out).
- left too much a large number of extra branches, which shade the crown and do not allow it to be blown normally (no air access).
- It is forbidden scratch out a hollow "to healthy wood", hammer it with bricks or something else like pour concrete, foam etc.
filling just the opposite, accelerates decay trunk wood and shortens the life of a tree.
- No special need cut off old branches on which mosses and lichens. They do not harm, but benefit.
Another thing is if young thin branches of trees are covered with moss, then in this case rejuvenating pruning of the entire tree (especially old branches) is needed.
Thus, if you annually and timely carry out high-quality spring pruning of apricots in accordance with all the rules, then the tree will definitely reward you with a large number of delicious apricots. After all, it can only give stable yields healthy tree with a well-formed crown.
Video: spring apricot pruning - how to properly form a young tree and how to rejuvenate an old one
Of course, when you read and see diagrams, pictures, everything seems simple and easy. But for some reason, when you approach your tree, everything becomes incomprehensible.
Well, that's okay. Main - no need to be afraid and just practice more often Because everything comes with experience.
In addition, pruning is, in a sense, a creative process: after all, the same branch (skeletal) can be cut in different ways.
Advice! Alternatively, you can print out cheat sheets for yourself with all the patterns and cropping rules.
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Apricot pruning is an agricultural technique that prolongs the fruiting period of a tree, increasing the quality and quantity of fruits. The technique of its implementation has its own specifics, which differ from the standards for pruning other stone fruit crops.
What is an apricot cut for?
The need for pruning apricot trees is caused by several reasons:
- Need for good lighting. The thickening of the crown of an apricot leads to a reduction in the laying of flower buds and the drying of branches.
- The need for either rationing or stimulating the crop. In an apricot, almost the entire ovary bears fruit, which naturally leads to an overload of the tree - breaking off branches, reducing the growth of new shoots and the formation of a fruitful ovary, and reducing yields. On the other hand, without pruning, the branches quickly grow bald, fruiting is transferred to the periphery, it becomes scarce.
Let's consider each of the points in more detail.
Harvest normalization
The laying of fruits on apricot trees occurs on bouquet twigs and spurs, growing mainly on the shoots of the previous year.
Accordingly, in order to obtain a good harvest of apricot, it is necessary to ensure a strong growth of young shoots. For this, the following algorithm is followed:
- 1-2 lateral branches are shortened, leaving 5 cm knots for strongly branched varieties or 15 cm for weakly branched apricots. During the growing season, 3-4 strong shoots and several weak shoots are formed on such knots;
- next year, the most powerful shoot is shortened, cut to 10 cm, and the rest - by 1/3 of their length. During the growing season, twigs with flower buds form on them, and long shoots on a knot;
- the next year, the most powerful of these shoots is again shortened by a knot, and the rest by 1/3 of the length. Fruit twigs formed in the previous year are harvested;
- fruiting short branches are cut to the lower branch or to a ring, dead spurs are removed.
Crown thinning
If pruning is not carried out, the young tree actively forms a crown in the first years, gives good yields, but then - 4-5 years after planting, the situation changes dramatically. Since the crown grows, grows bald in the middle and thickens on the periphery, less ovaries are formed, and the marketable qualities of the fruit deteriorate. Preventive pruning allows you to:
- increase the light and air permeability of the crown;
- stimulate the growth of shoots and the laying of flower buds;
- adjust the number of fruits on the branches;
- reduce the likelihood of damage to the tree by pests and diseases;
- prolong the life and fruiting of apricot;
- make harvesting easier.
Depending on the purpose of preventive pruning, deadlines and features of the implementation, pruning is divided into several types.
- Forming - allows you to get a powerful and at the same time well-lit crown. In addition, it is used to stimulate the growth of branches. This type of pruning is carried out on young trees, before they enter the fruiting period.
- Sanitary - carried out in the spring-summer-autumn season in order to clean the tree from dried, diseased or frozen branches.
- Regulatory - carried out on adult, already fruiting trees. Its goal is to maintain the optimal ratio between deciduous and fruit branches.
- Anti-aging - practiced for old apricot trees, because. with age, the growth rate of shoots is reduced from 0.8 - 1 meter to 20 centimeters. Thinning is performed in early spring or early summer, by removing 1-2 large branches inside the crown, shoots on the trunk, and side shoots on the lower tiers.
In spring, summer or autumn - when you can cut an apricot
Apricot trees need complex pruning, which is carried out at different times of the year.
- In early spring - before sap flow. The timing of the spring forming, sanitary or anti-aging pruning depends on the climatic conditions of the region where the apricot grows. It is carried out in the absence of age-related frosts, when the daytime air temperature is set above 6 degrees during the day and not below 0 at night.
As a rule, in the southern regions of the Russian Federation, apricot pruning is carried out in the first half of March, in the central regions - in the second half of March - early April, in the northern regions - in the second half of April.
- In summer - in early June or after harvest. Rejuvenating summer pruning provides the apricot with abundant growth and the laying of generative buds on regrown shoots. It is held once every 3 years. The shortening of vertical shoots (tops), carried out in early June, postpones flowering by 1-2 weeks. Thanks to this, even if the main volume of the ovary is damaged by return frosts, the flowers that bloom later can survive, and there is still a chance to get at least a small crop;
After summer pruning, apricot needs good watering and fertilization.
- In autumn - before the temperature drops below +8. Regulatory pruning of apricots in autumn - in October or the first decade of November - is carried out in order to increase the lifespan of the tree and ensure a stable harvest. It is performed only on trees of early and mid-season varieties growing in the southern regions. The procedure involves shortening by 1/3 of all fruit branches, with the exception of the main skeletal ones.
Apricots growing in Siberia, the Urals and central Russia are not pruned in autumn, because in this climate the trees do not have time to prepare for winter and, in case of a sharp cold snap, can partially or completely freeze.
How to form an apricot tree
In practice, several options for the formation of an apricot crown are used:
- bush form, which is characterized by the absence of a central conductor and a single-tier arrangement of several branches of the same strength;
- sparsely-tiered crown, formed with the help of several levels of skeletal branches.
Each of the options has its own advantages.
in the form of a bush
Bush forming principle suitable for apricots undersized varieties, as well as for trees cultivated in cold regions. It allows:
- get low lush plants, with a large number of bouquet branches and spurs;
- constant renewal of branches, providing an annual harvest;
- resistance to freezing due to the "mundane" arrangement of branches and the ability to completely cover the tree for the winter if necessary;
- self-shading, protecting branches and fruits from sunburn;
- minimal risk of damage to apricot branches by strong gusts of wind;
The formation of an apricot by a bush is carried out on one-year-old seedlings in the spring - before bud break. To do this, they are cut at a height of 30-40 cm, which leads to the awakening of dormant buds and the growth of side shoots. Actively growing branches form a small bush by autumn.
The next pruning is performed in the 2nd year - the regrown apricot branches are shortened by 1/3 of the height. In the 3rd year, 6-8 main fruit-bearing branches are formed from them, while the shoots growing inwards or horizontally are removed. For 3-4 years, the apricot turns into a bush 2.5-3 meters high. The process of creating a bush over the years is covered in great detail in the following video:
Sparse-tiered crown
The sparsely-tiered crown is more suitable for apricot trees grown in regions with a mild climate. It allows you to achieve uniform ripening of fruits, providing lighting and ventilation of the crown, simplifies harvesting. 
The crown is formed in four years according to the following scheme.
- In annual seedlings planted in spring, the central conductor is cut short, leaving 3-4 buds on it.
- In the second year, 2-3 future skeletal branches are left, extending from the trunk at an angle of 45 to 80 degrees, located at a height of 10-20 cm from each other, located along the trunk circumference (i.e. they should look in different directions). They are cut to half the length, all other processes are removed to the ring. The central conductor is cut at a height of about 25 cm from the base of the upper skeletal branch.
- In the third year, a tier of the second order is formed from 1-3 branches located at a distance of 60-80 cm from the nearest skeletal branch. All shoots that have grown over the past season are shortened by half if they are more than 70 cm, and by a third if they are less than 70 cm. The conductor is left about 50 cm long from the base of the upper skeletal branch.
- In the fourth year, the formation of a sparse-tiered crown ends - another 1-3 branches of the new tier are left, and the central conductor is removed above the uppermost skeletal branch. On the second tier shoots of the second order are laid, and on the first - of the third.
In addition - a detailed video on the formation of a sparse-tiered crown:
Anti-aging pruning
Due to the high growth rate of shoots characteristic of apricots, rejuvenating pruning of old trees gives good results. It is carried out when the growth of annual shoots is less than 30 cm, which leads to the exposure of skeletal branches and the movement of fruiting to the periphery, its periodicity, and a decrease in yield. 
To rejuvenate an apricot, old skeletal branches are cut out from it, leaving no more than a third of their length, growing inwards, extra tops, sagging branches. The next year, new skeletal branches are selected from young shoots, after which a crown is formed in accordance with the rules for young trees. Rejuvenation is carried out in stages - over 3 seasons:
Rules for caring for a tree after pruning
Pruning of apricot trees is done with sharp garden tools in warm windless weather. After work, the sections are treated with garden pitch to avoid infection of wounds with fungal diseases. If the procedure is carried out in the spring, the trunk can additionally be whitewashed with lime.
After pruning, the tree needs care - see how it is and. Properly carried out pruning increases the life span of the tree and stimulates the active growth of bouquet twigs and spurs, thereby making it possible to get excellent yields every year.
It is very interesting to know your technique for forming an apricot crown, depending on the region of residence. I invite you to discuss in the comments.
The apricot tree on the site needs constant competent pruning, given how quickly it grows and thickens itself. If you cut the apricot in a timely manner and form the crown correctly, then the harvest will delight you with both the quality of the fruits and their quantity. But it is not a one-time, but a systematic pruning of these fruit trees that is important in order to properly form the crown and get the maximum yield. You can cut apricots in spring, summer, and autumn, when the crop is already harvested.
In order to prevent incorrect formation of the crown of a fruiting apricot, you need to know the important rules for pruning it in order to optimally support the growth processes of branches, in which the length of their annual growth will not be more than 35-45 centimeters. And notice that fruit ovaries apricots are formed both on last year's branches and on young shoots.
When and when to prune apricots?
A feature of a fruit-bearing apricot is that the tree does not drop the ovaries, even if there are too many of them, and when they ripen, they can create a large load and break the branches of the tree.
That is, the threat to the apricot tree itself can become its own high yield, therefore, with the help of timely and seasonal pruning of the crown of the tree, it is possible to achieve the optimal balance of yield / safety of the tree.
spring pruning apricot
Apricot pruning has both its pros and cons, the knowledge of which allows you to care for the tree correctly and successfully. Experienced gardeners they prefer spring and summer pruning, because after such an operation the tree has time to overpower it and prepare the updated crown for a safe wintering.
The best conditions for spring pruning are stable weather in March-April before sap flow begins. From the second year of development, one-year-old shoots should be shortened in an apricot seedling.
In varieties that branch quickly (more than 50-65 centimeters), shoots that continue skeletal branches should be shortened to half. Shoots of varieties that are weakly branching, it is enough to shorten them by 2/3 of their length.
How to prune an apricot in summer
Following after the spring summer chasing (pruning) of apricots according to a certain scheme is important for obtaining a rich harvest of apricot fruits next year. Summer pruning follows the principles of tweezing (pinching the top of the shoot), which can be carried out both in June and in August, when the crop has already been harvested.
All shoots of the current season, which have reached a length of more than 20-25 centimeters, are tweezed. After such minting young tree after a week and a half, a lot of young up to 3-5 strong shoots appear, on which fruit shoots of the next year's crop are laid. Such pruning not only helps intensive growth, but also allows the tree itself to completely replenish its crown, and future fruitful buds actively develop in the second wave of growth.
Be sure to consider the following requirements when going for summer tweezing:
- a sufficient amount of moisture, especially in hot and dry periods;
- summer pinching will not give the desired result if the tree grows on depleted soil with a moisture deficit;
- under the above conditions, it is permissible to carry out summer tweezing no more than 1 time in a period of 2-3 years, without abandoning the annual spring pruning.
How to prune apricots in autumn?
Autumn pruning of apricots can be carried out in the southern regions, with mild, short winters, so that especially young trees do not suffer from frost. In the autumn months, in the absence of prolonged cold rains with early frosts, pruning of apricot trees is quite effective, in which defective branches and perennial wood are removed in order to rejuvenate, after which there is a good increase in numerous shoots in the spring.
A tree that has undergone such pruning becomes more resistant to diseases and adverse weather conditions, while the fruits become larger and sweeter. When pruning apricots in autumn, in order to form a full-fledged crown, a discharged tiered pruning system is used, the basis of which should be at least 4-6 skeletal branches. First, perennial fruit branches are shortened by a third, the cut points on which are covered with antiseptics (linseed oil, garden pitch, light-colored plasticine).
How to form a cupped apricot crown
To create a similar apricot crown, 2-4 branches should be left around the circumference of the trunk with an interval of 2-4 buds. Above the top branch, the conductor is removed. A spike is left, 15-20 centimeters long, above the upper branch from the central conductor without kidneys. Side branches are shortened by 4-7 centimeters. It is very important to make all cuts on the external kidney.
The following year, skeletal branches are cut in the spring at the same level up to 45-55 centimeters. Then, in May-early June, chasing is carried out with the removal of shoots and competitors on the stem of the tree itself. Then leave after 45-55 centimeters up to 3 branches of the second order on the branches of the first order. For this purpose, 1-2 shoots are isolated from the left shoots, located on opposite sides of the main branch, when the first branch of the second order can be located on the trunk at a distance of 35-45 centimeters, and the next - 15-45 from the first. The conductors of the branches of the first and second order do not need to be shortened. All other branches, regardless of their position, are removed to the ring.
On the main branches of the first order, they continue to lay branches of the second order for the third year, and the branches of the third order next year are based on last year. Then the branches that are not necessary for the formation of the correct crown, vertical and directed inward, are cut off. After 6-7 years of fruiting, the need for pruning to increase productivity is brewing. For this purpose, 2-4 shoots are left at the ends of the shoots, which necessarily need to be shortened by one third of the length. A replacement knot is left between them, in the role of which the most developed shoot will be cut to 8-15 centimeters. Fruit-bearing branches on older wood are also shortened to the lower developed strong shoot so that they also become shorter by 5-8 buds.
Instructions for the correct pruning of apricots
To form an apricot crown, they begin with a seedling. In the first years of its vegetation, the branches grow quickly and long, they need pruning for branching. Taking into account the morphological feature of the apricot: the fragile fastening of the branches to the central conductor, single branches are strictly laid down with a large angle.
At a distance from one another, two branches are left on the seedling, and those located between them are gently bent and tied to the stem. The central conductor is shortened by 25-30 centimeters, and future skeletal branches are shortened by half. With an acute angle of discharge, stem growths are removed in May. The rest of the shoots are pinched over the 5-8th leaf.
Next year, 1-3 branches selected last year are left, at least 35-45 centimeters higher. Moreover, these branches are shortened according to the principle of subordination. Departing from the last shortened skeletal branch by 55-75 centimeters, the conductor is cut off. Depending on the variety of apricot and the degree of its branching, the growths located at the ends of both main branches are cut off in strongly branching - by half, and in weakly branching - by 2/3 of their length. Branches of the second order, extending from the skeletal ones, should be located on both sides of the trunk in the range of 30-40 centimeters from each other. Small branches that have grown between them are cut to the base. Last year's growth is halved. Competing shoots that have reached a length of 6-8 centimeters, growing vertically, are cut out. By the end of May, from the second half of it, chasing is necessary.
For 3-4 years, they begin to form the main, fifth, branch, the conductor above which is removed so that the tree does not stretch upwards, and the crown remains compact. Next, the one-year growth is cut off, and the branches of the second order are laid on the middle branches. Branches of the third order are left at the lowest. In the next season, branches of the second order are formed on the same branch with shortening and cutting to thin out the one-year growth. In order to cope with the growth of young shoots following this measure, due to productivity, within 2-4 years they are limited only to thinning and removal of rejected branches that thicken the crown, grow vertically or are broken. After such pruning and chasing, the apricot crown can be considered correctly formed.
A year after shortening, an increase is formed, 40-90 centimeters long, which, if not cut, can bloom without forming an ovary, and during the season will be covered with 3-6 cm branches. These branches for the third season can give good harvest, but at 4-6 they will most likely die off. Given that the apricot bears fruit mainly on lateral shoots, 25-30 cm long, in order to increase its yield, it is important to reproduce fresh fruit wood annually. To preserve the youth of the fruit wood, 1-2 branches of each skeletal branch should be shortened to a three-year-old wood, so that only a knot of 10-20 cm long remains.
So, how to properly cut an apricot and form a crown in the very first years, by what methods it is correct to rejuvenate it in the future, taking into account the features different varieties apricots and the best time for this can be found in the video lesson.
The harmonious growth and degree of fruiting of any fruit trees directly depend on the gardener's compliance with the rules of care. The apricot tree loves lit areas and grows best in southern and southwestern areas. The presence of thick and branched branches in a culture implies competent and timely pruning. Today you will learn how to properly cut an apricot at different times of the year.
Before talking about when and how to remove extra branches, it is important to understand what the goals of this procedure are. To obtain a neat tree crown, it must be formed in a timely manner. If this is not done, the branches will grow according to their own rules.
Shaping is also necessary so that after a certain time the normal fruiting of the tree does not stop. At the same time, the presence of a thick and powerful crown is not a guarantee of abundant fruiting. If it is not cut, the branches inside will quickly grow bald and become brittle. On a tree devoid of pruning, fewer fruiting buds will appear, and the harvested crop will be small.
If the apricot crown is not pruned in the very first years, its branches will begin to break due to the load. On such a culture, new shoots will not form. Abundant fruiting can even lead to the death of an apricot. Regular pruning of apricots growing in your own garden allows you to give them a well-groomed appearance. And it is also aimed at extending the life of trees and getting large and tasty fruits for many years.
Types of pruning apricot
For apricot seedling and adult fruit tree 5 main types of pruning are carried out per season. For beginner gardeners with a minimum practical experience Let us explain: there are shaping, regulating, restorative and sanitary pruning, as well as for the purpose of rejuvenation. Each of the methods is important for the tree and has its own characteristics.
Without the first, normal branching and the formation of branches of the first tier in the seedling are impossible. Subsequent pruning forms a tree for better lighting sunlight and prevent crown overgrowth. Pruning that regulates the number of branches ensures the safety of the future crop, without allowing the tree to weaken.
If a tree can withstand low winter temperatures with honor, in the spring it will be able to do without a restoration procedure. Sanitary measures are carried out in the fall in the presence of diseases or pests. It is important to rejuvenate a culture in order to stimulate the appearance of its new shoots.
Cropping Features
When to prune an apricot? Complex work is always carried out in the spring, autumn and summer periods. Use well-sharpened and pre-disinfected tools. You will need to prepare a garden knife, a hacksaw, a pruner, as well as a delimber. To know how to properly remove unnecessary branches, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the procedure at different times of the year.
spring
In the spring, it is advised to do it at the very end of March - early April. That is, if there is comfortable temperature environment and trying to be in time before the active sap flow begins. It is necessary to carry out the formation of the crown of your culture in accordance with all the rules, plan sanitary and maintenance procedures. How to prune an apricot An adult at this time is relieved of frozen and broken branches. Otherwise, all the forces of the plant will go to the restoration of diseased shoots. This is always fraught with a decrease in the number harvested crop and a decrease in taste.
In summer
In June, trying to be in time before the 15th, the gardener must chasing. Pinching is carried out from mid-May. Pinching of all shoots of this year is required. It is important to pinch the shoots, but not more than 20-25 cm. Apricots are pruned in summer in order to give your favorite culture a second youth. The young shoots that appeared this year are cut so that their length is 20-30 cm. Only 3-4 viable shoots are left in the shoot that appears after a couple of weeks, the rest should be cut off.
By autumn, all cuts should be tightened, and the foliage should recover. It is worth waiting for the appearance of additional kidneys. Summer apricot pruning is usually carried out no more than 1 time in 3-4 years. The planned procedure may be delayed due to lack of moisture in the culture.
autumn
In autumn, the tree is cleared of diseased shoots. fruit branches, except for skeletal ones, should be shortened by a third of the total length. Pruning apricots in autumn is recommended in mid-October. If it rains or frosts come too early, this procedure is not carried out. It helps to restore the balance of branches covered with leaves and those on which fruits are formed.
crown formation
Experienced gardeners advise using well-known techniques to create a discharged-tiered crown. To do this, no more than 7 main branches of the first row must be brought to a distance of 40 cm. The scheme will change annually. In order for the apricot to be formed correctly in the end, the procedure is carried out from the first year, taking into account the characteristics of each period.
First year
With the independent formation of the crown of your apricot, the first year of life on the branch site can be cut so that their length to the ground does not exceed 90 cm. If there are shoots on a young tree, the main conductor is usually cut so that it is 20-30 higher than the other branches see Viable branches are shortened by half. They are located on a tree along a row. The procedure is carried out "on the ring", be sure to remove the remaining processes.
Second year
The work necessary for laying new central branches continues. Viable shoots are usually pruned according to the subordination method. In this case, the branches located in the upper tier should be shorter than the lower ones. The length of the conductor is normally 40 cm from the last branch, the growth of which is directed to the side. The shoots themselves must be located 30 cm from last year's and from each other. The shoots that appeared on the tree last year are also subject to shortening. Those that have grown during this season on skeletal branches are halved according to the rules (for fast growing varieties) or a third of the length (for those with moderate growth).
Third year
During this period, cuttings, and now future full-fledged trees, are laying the last skeletal branches. The main types of work do not differ from those carried out in the second year. However, the conductor is not shortened, but removed. To worry about overgrowing branches, you should shorten those that are not skeletal, but also grow from the trunk.
Fourth year
Most varieties at this point begin to actively bear fruit. The crown is already considered to be fully formed due to the absence of branches removed in previous periods. Within 3 years, the tree will need sanitary and wellness procedures.
mature tree
The old apricot, which is already over 4 years old, is in dire need of a rejuvenating procedure. Because its branches can no longer bear fruit. How to rejuvenate culture? Skeletal branches should be shortened to a length of 20-30 cm. If the fruits on your horticultural crop appear on distant branches, then in spring period it is advised to completely remove the wood from the existing skeletal branches. In the summer, numerous young and healthy shoots will certainly appear on them.
If you study all the rules and master the intricacies of the procedures, you can enjoy the well-groomed and abundantly fruiting trees growing in your garden.
Video "Correct pruning of apricots in spring"
From this video you will learn how to properly carry out spring pruning of apricots.
