Weigela - planting and care in the open field, reproduction and shelter for the winter. Weigela: planting, reproduction and care How long does a shrub live

Weigela belongs to flowering deciduous shrubs, but, unlike other similar species that bloom only once a season, weigela will delight you with lush fragrant buds in spring and late summer.

To decorate your garden with this unusual shrub, you need to know how to grow it properly and what kind of care the culture may need. These issues are discussed in detail in this article.

Weigela shrub - description

Weigela refers to deciduous shrubs. Asia is considered the birthplace of culture, and although there are about 15 plant species in nature, only seven of them are grown in gardens. In addition to high decorativeness, the shrub is distinguished by abundant and long flowering, undemanding care and growing conditions (Figure 1).

Picture 1. External Features weigels

Weigela is classified as a moisture-loving shade-tolerant plant. Buds can be either single or collected in small inflorescences. The petals come in a wide variety of colors, from cream and yellow to deep red, with young buds generally lighter in color but darker as they age. After flowering is completed, fruit boxes with seeds are formed in place of wilted buds.

Species and varieties

Under natural conditions, weigela grows in a warm tropical climate, but, thanks to the efforts of breeders, winter-hardy varieties suitable for growing in temperate and harsh climates (Figure 2).

Popular types of weigela include:

1. Early (pleasant) occurs naturally in Far East, and adult shrubs can reach two meters in height. Bright pink buds are collected in small inflorescences. The flowering period begins at the end of May and lasts about a month.
2. Blooming weigela (florida) can reach three meters in height. Inflorescences are grouped in 3-4 pieces and bloom at the end of May, while the flowering period is no more than three weeks. This species includes varieties Alba (dwarf shrub with white flowers), Victoria (a low shrub with purple flowers and brownish leaves), as well as a purple variety, whose representatives are distinguished by a lush crown and rich pink buds.
3. Spreading weigela rarely exceeds one and a half meters in height, but it is distinguished by a wide variety of varieties. For example, Bristol Ruby is distinguished by bright pink inflorescences and rich green leaves, and Red Prince is a compact hybrid with bright red flowers, which are favorably set off by green foliage.

Figure 2. The main varieties of culture: 1 - early (pleasant), 2 - blooming (Florida), 3 - sprawling

Separately, weigela Middendorf is distinguished - a one and a half meter shrub with large yellow flowers. It is this type of culture that blooms twice a season.

As for other horticultural crops, for weigela there are certain rules for planting in open ground. Compliance with these recommendations will determine how quickly the shrub will take root in a new place and begin to bloom.

The main attention should be paid to the landing time. Below we will consider the main recommendations that should be considered when planting a plant in open ground (Figure 3).

When to plant

The best time for planting is considered to be early spring, when the soil has already thawed and slightly warmed up, but the buds on trees and shrubs have not yet begun to bloom.

Note: It is not recommended to plant a shrub in autumn, as there is a high risk of its death during the winter.

It is best to choose a place on the south side of the site, as strong winds and drafts can lead to premature bud drop. In addition, it is desirable that the site is well lit by the sun: only in this case the buds will acquire a bright saturated color. The soil should be sufficiently loose and fertile, so areas with poor soils must be additionally fertilized.

How to plant

The planting of shrubs is carried out on a previously prepared site. It should be cleared of weeds, and, if necessary, mineral and organic fertilizers should be applied to the soil.

Figure 3. Features of planting shrubs in open ground

The depth of the planting holes depends on the fertility of the soil. If the soil is rich in humus, there will be enough pits 30-40 cm deep. For poor soils, the pits are made deeper so that not only a drainage layer, but also fertile soil can be laid on their bottom.

Note: In the process of planting, 100 grams of nitrophoska and one and a half buckets of compost are additionally added to each well. In addition, it is desirable to treat the roots of seedlings with growth stimulants so that the seedlings take root faster in a new place.

Planting holes are located at a distance of 80-150 cm from each other (depending on the size of the variety). The seedling is placed vertically in the pit, the roots are carefully straightened and sprinkled with earth so that there are no voids between them. At the same time, it is desirable that after the soil settles, the root neck is flush with the soil level, or it is deepened by 1-2 cm. After all these measures, the garden bed is watered and mulched with organic materials.

Weigela care

Caring for a shrub is quite simple, especially if you have chosen the right place and time for planting. However, it should be borne in mind that despite all the unpretentiousness of the culture, at certain times of the year it needs proper care.

Let us consider in more detail the features of seasonal work with weigela shrubs in more detail.

spring

If this shrub is already growing on your site, in the spring it is necessary to inspect it and sanitary pruning. Until the plant wakes up, you need to remove all dry and damaged branches.

It is also necessary to remove a layer of old mulch, water the soil and cover with a fresh layer of mulching material. This condition applies to both adult shrubs and newly planted seedlings.

In addition to pruning and mulching, in early spring carry out top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, which stimulate the growth of young shoots and leaves, and make the crown of the shrub more lush.

summer care

Summer crop care is even easier than spring. It is necessary to water the shrub only as needed, namely, in a severe drought. In beds with a young plant, weeds should be regularly removed and surface loosening of the soil should be carried out.

Also in summer, the plant needs top dressing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which are applied to the ground in a dry form, after which abundant watering is carried out. Otherwise, shrubs do not require special attention from the gardener in the summer.

Features of care in the fall

In autumn, when the flowering period ends, the shrub begins to prepare for winter. In order for the culture to endure the cold season well, certain measures must be taken. Firstly, young, recently planted plants, for the winter you need to wrap thick paper or any other covering material to protect against frost.

Secondly, it is imperative to mulch the trunk circles so that the plants do not lose moisture and nutrients during the winter.

In addition, in the fall, they dig the soil with the simultaneous introduction of wood ash into the soil (200 g per square meter beds). This will give the plants needed in winter nutrients and will ensure abundant and friendly flowering next year.

Weigela flowering

The main difference between weigela and others ornamental shrubs that it blooms twice a year. The first time the buds bloom in the spring on last year's shoots, and the second time - on the young growth of the current year in late August and early September (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of flowering culture

During the flowering period, it is desirable for the shrub to provide additional nutrition by introducing potassium-phosphorus fertilizers into the soil. This will help the culture bloom more luxuriantly and abundantly.

reproduction

Weigela can be propagated in many ways. But growing from seeds is rarely practiced, since planting material only remains viable for a few years, and growing an adult shrub takes too long.

Note: Another disadvantage of growing from seeds is the fact that young seedlings do not always retain the characteristics of the variety.

That is why, when propagating a shrub, preference is given to the vegetative method: cuttings, basal shoots or layering (Figure 5). When using the cutting method, cuttings can be cut both from the green shoots of the current year, and from last year's semi-lignified branches. The lower part of the cutting is freed from leaves and treated with a solution of a root-forming preparation. After that, the cuttings are planted in light, moist soil (a mixture of peat and sand). From above, each seedling is covered with a jar or plastic bottle. In the future, the shelter is removed daily for watering and airing. As the young shoots form, pinching is carried out to make the plant more lush.

Figure 5. Stages of propagation by cuttings and layering

When using the propagation method by layering, it is necessary to choose a branch located close to the ground, slightly damage its bark and sprinkle with a layer of soil. Already next year you will have a full-fledged plant that can be separated from the mother bush. However, it should be borne in mind that, regardless of the chosen method of reproduction, young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place only after three years.

pruning

Like other ornamental shrubs, weigela needs pruning. It is enough for young plants to carry out sanitary cleaning, removing old, dry or frozen shoots in the spring. This encourages tillering and will help keep the crop healthy (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Features of pruning shrubs

Mature shrubs need to be formed, and pruning is carried out in the summer, after the completion of the first wave of flowering. It should be borne in mind that the procedure must be completed before the start of a new flowering period, which occurs on the shoots of the current year. If you did not have time to remove the extra branches, it is better to postpone the procedure until next year.

Every four years, anti-aging pruning is also carried out, during which all branches older than three years of age are removed, and the rest are shortened by a third. If the flowering of the weigela has become insignificant or has completely stopped, you can completely cut off all the branches. The culture will quickly recover after such a procedure and resume flowering.

Weigela after flowering

As mentioned above, the shrub blooms twice per season: in spring and at the end of summer. After the end of this period, seed pods form in place of wilted buds. At this time, you can collect planting material for further reproduction and begin preparing the shrub for winter.

How and when to collect seeds

Shrub seeds begin to form as early as September, but they can be collected no earlier than November. hallmark readiness of seeds - cracking of the box.

To prevent self-seeding of seeds, most of the boxes can be removed before ripening, and the rest can be wrapped with gauze, fixing it on a branch. When the seeds are ripe, the boxes are simply cut off, opened, the seeds are poured onto paper and dried slightly.

You can store such seeds for no longer than two years, since in the future they lose their ability to germinate.

Weigela in winter

In order for the culture to endure the winter well, it must be properly prepared for the cold season. To do this, in November, when most of the leaves fall, trunk circle sprinkled with earth, forming a low mound.

The branches of the plant are bent to the ground and covered with covering material, for example, roofing material. The cover must be securely fastened so that it is not accidentally torn off by the wind. Another design will help protect the weigela. The branches are simply tied with a rope, a wire frame is installed around the bush, dry leaves are poured inside, and the plant is covered with covering material from above.

Pests and diseases

During the flowering period, weigela can be damaged by caterpillars, aphids or spider mites, but they spread mainly in extreme heat. To combat these pests, insecticide solutions are used, which are sprayed on the shrub itself and the soil around it.

Of the weigela diseases, it is sensitive to spotting, gray rot and rust. It is difficult to treat these diseases, therefore, treatment is carried out for prevention. Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol before the start of flowering.

You will find more information about the weigel shrub and the features of its cultivation in the video.

Weigela can rightfully be called one of the most luxurious decorative flowering shrubs. This charming bush causes a storm of positive emotions with a fantastically abundant flowering of its brightly colored bells, because of which the foliage is often not visible. It is noteworthy that the foliage itself attracts the eye, amazingly changing color depending on the season. Even for a novice gardener, this beautiful plant can become a favorite due to its ease of planting and ease of cultivation and care. open ground.

Weigela: description of the shrub, its flowering period

Belongs to the genus of shrubs of the honeysuckle family. It happens in compact sizes up to 1 meter, there are also quite tall varieties up to 2-3 meters.

In terms of the beauty of flowering, this magnificent shrub will definitely not yield to anyone. Weigela has large funnel-shaped or tubular-bell-shaped flowers (sometimes reaching 5 centimeters in length), which can be single or collected in a brush. Depending on the variety, the exquisite color range of flowers varies greatly: it can be red, pink, cream, white or even yellow. The main feature of the flowering of this amazing ornamental shrub is the variation in the color of the flowers: from pale to saturated.

Weigela leaves also attract attention: green, soft, velvety with white, purple or red edging. Their intricate varietal color also bizarrely changes depending on the season - at first, for example, green with a pale pinkish tint of edging, and in autumn it is already a rich red color.

The end of May - the beginning of June is the time when weigels bloom. Summer flowering usually lasts about a month. They can re-bloom (naturally, less abundantly) in September-October if the weather is warm.

Video: weigela flowering shrub

Popular types and varieties of weigela

There are more than 10 types of weigela of various varieties, but the most popular varieties of this shrub that are grown by gardeners are the following:

By the way! Weigel Middendorf, characterized by high frost resistance and excellent.

Video: flowering and types of weigela

Recently, it has become very popular, including due to its winter hardiness, weigela Bristol Ruby, about planting and growing which you can learn more from the following video:

Weigela breeding methods

As a rule, weigela is best propagated cuttings. The optimal time is early spring before bud break. The stalk must be cut in such a way that it has 3-4 buds and a length of 10-12 centimeters. Next, it must be treated with one of the root formation stimulants, for example, root. Then put for 12 hours in a cool and dark place. During this time, the cut will dry out and absorb the root stimulator. Everything, the stalk can be planted (to a depth of 0.5-1 centimeter) and covered with a film (mini-greenhouse). Rooting can take about a month or even more. Already next spring, the stalk can be planted in a permanent place in open ground.

Seminal the method is also considered suitable, but you must understand that this is a very long process and it will take a very long time to wait for flowering.

You can propagate weigela and layering, in other words, by dropping a twig, but the method is very inefficient.

Video: weigela propagation by cuttings and seeds

Planting weigela in open ground

Landing dates

It is optimal to plant weigela in open ground spring. The main thing is to meet the deadlines until the kidneys swell. Thus, weigela can be planted from the end of March to May: in March-April - in the south, in April-May - in the Middle lane and the Moscow region.

Place on the site

As for the place for planting weigela, it should be open and sunny, only in this case the shrub will bloom profusely. If you plant it in light partial shade, then it will also be able to take root well, but the flowering will not be as stormy, although it will be very beautiful. It is also very important to choose a place in which the shrub will be well protected from drafts, otherwise its leaves and flowers may be damaged during strong northern winds. For these purposes, the south side of the house is perfect.

As for the use of weigela in garden design, low-growing varieties of shrubs are ideal for rocky areas of the garden, tall ones look good in flowering hedge. Also, this very attractive shrub can be planted in mixborders, on Alpine rollercoaster, near reservoirs and artificial ponds.

It is beautiful to plant a weigela next to a fern, hosts, lilies of the valley, juniper and also.

Interesting bush will look in joint landings with spireas, cotoneasters and

Single bushes can be effectively planted near the entrance to your home or next to the gate.

Landing hole and soil

To plant a weigela seedling, you will need to prepare landing pit 50 by 50 centimeters in size, at the bottom of which make a drainage layer of about 15 centimeters (from gravel and sand, broken bricks, large stones are also suitable) so that there is no stagnant water.

The shrub needs loose and fertile soil. A suitable soil mix for filling the planting hole: 2 parts sand, 2 parts soddy soil and 1 part humus, or 2 parts garden soil, 2 parts leafy soil and 1 part sand, plus 1 tbsp. a spoonful of saltpeter or urea.

It is advisable to plant weigela seedlings at a distance of 2-3 meters, because. the bush grows very fast.

Direct planting of seedlings

Advice! It is ideal to purchase weigela seedlings 3-4 years of age. It will also be just fine if, before planting in open ground, you lower the roots of the seedling into water with the addition of one of the popular root stimulants.

Step-by-step instructions for planting weigela in open ground:

Video: when to plant weigela in open ground

Weigela care in the open field

Agrotechnics for growing weigela is not so complicated, the rules for care are quite simple.

Weigela is one of those shrubs that love moisture, but do not tolerate waterlogging. Therefore, after each watering, it is necessary loosen the soil in the trunk circle, or preliminarily mulch it (the trunk circle), which will enable the plant to constantly receive oxygen, and the earth will not turn sour after watering.

As for the frequency irrigation weigels, then on hot summer days, only 1 bucket 1 time in 4 weeks will be enough for the shrub. And in the spring, you can generally do without watering if the soil has remained wet since winter or it rains. In general, you just need to make sure that the earth does not dry out.

It is enough to feed the shrub 2 times per season. First time it is recommended to feed the weigela with nitrogen fertilizers in early spring. Fertilizer recipe: 1-2 tablespoons of urea or ammonium nitrate per 1 bucket of water. Or you can dig a shrub with rotted manure. The second and last time the plant should be fed when its buds begin to pour, in other words, before flowering. On this stage shrubs require phosphorus-potassium top dressing. In this case, for example, you can use superphosphate and potassium chloride or sulfate, and, as an option, potassium monophosphate.

The shrub lends itself perfectly shaping pruning, so you can control its size and shape if you want.

In the spring it is prudent to carry out sanitary pruning of all dry, frozen, broken and diseased branches. It may also be required after each flowering.

Video: helpful tips for growing weigela

Thus, if you plant a weigela in the spring at your summer cottage, and then grow it correctly, observing all the conditions for caring for the plant, then this flowering deciduous shrub will delight you with its incredibly bright and lush flowering for several decades.

Video: planting weigela, care and description of the shrub

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With the onset of spring, nature wakes up, garden plots become real decorations of the surrounding world: trees and shrubs bloom profusely and smell fragrant. Particularly stand out are those that delight the eye with their bright colors. One of these shrubs is weigela. In the open field, planting and caring for it are not too complicated and require only minimal knowledge of the features of this blooming beauty. We will talk about them in this article.

It is an ornamental shrub belonging to the honeysuckle family. It got its name from the German botanist, chemist and pharmacologist Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel.

The natural habitat of weigela is about. Java, Far East region and East Asia. Both in natural and garden conditions the shrub looks great, especially during its flowering period. At the same time, it is quite unpretentious and easy to propagate, therefore it is very popular among gardeners.

Characteristic

Weigela shrub takes root well in the climate of our country. It has many varieties, but not all varieties of this ornamental plant are widespread. Any of them are a wonderful decoration of the landscape and a real discovery for any novice gardener. The fact is that weigela blooms twice a season: from May to June and from mid-August to the end of September. Such an interesting property cannot leave indifferent any flower lover.

Table 1. Weigela characteristic

Characteristic	Description
tree type	shrubs
Height	up to 4 meters
Flower shape	Bells or funnels
Flower sizes	Up to 5 cm
coloring flowers	Cream, pink, red, yellow
Arrangement of flowers	Solitary / inflorescences
fruit shape	Box-shaped
seeds	small oblong
Seed maturation time	September
Seed collection time	November
Susceptibility to cold	Relatively cold-resistant (depending on variety)
Peculiarities	They do not like the wind, they need shelter, they are moisture-loving

Note: weigela prefers fertile, moisture-intensive soil. In it, the lush flowering of the shrub will not take long.

Cultivated varieties

So, this representative of the honeysuckle family has quite a lot of species and different hybrid varieties, each of which is beautiful in its own way. However, in horticulture, only a few of them are most widely used. Particularly popular are universal varieties that can grow both in the middle lane and in the south of Russia. For what properties do plant lovers like them so much? Let's figure it out.

The case when the name speaks for itself: its blooming appearance is very effective. The color of the inflorescences is lilac-pink on the outside and pale-light inside. The flowers are shaped like funnels. The leaves are slightly fluffy with unusual colors: green with yellowish spots that brighten with the onset of autumn. Leaves fall in October. Blooms "pleasant" twice - from May to June and in September. It can reach up to 1.3 meters in height.

The usual habitat is Sakhalin, China and the Far East. Shrub grows up to 1.5 meters. Beautiful yellow tubular flowers with bright red dots can be quite large - up to 5 cm. The leaves are oval in shape with pointed tips and fall off at the end of the growing season. Middendorf seeds are small, with small "wings".

Weigela « early »

This shrub is tall (up to two meters), its chic dense crown is pleasing to the eye. The inflorescences are pink, have a drooping appearance, but this is not at all a sign of a plant disease, but its feature. Blooms once, from May to mid-June.

Weigela « profusely blooming »

The elliptical shape of large (up to 11 cm) leaves of the shrub attracts attention. The flowers are painted in rich red. The plant is frost-resistant, but requires attention. Necessary and good soil. Experienced gardeners are advised to plant "abundantly flowering" weigela along the paths: during the flowering period, these shrubs will give the paths unprecedented lightness and splendor.

It blooms for about three weeks (in June) with a rich pink color. It does not matter where you plant this variety: it is very unpretentious to the location. However, he is very afraid of the cold, so shelter is a necessary measure. Likes wet soil.

Weigela « Korean »

Despite the name, Japan is considered its homeland. Decorative weigela "Korean" is very fond of light and, with enough of it, blooms luxuriantly and violently. However, the branches of the plant are fragile, so it must be placed in a place protected from strong winds.

Weigela « hybrid »

It is not called hybrid for nothing, because this shrub is a hybrid obtained by crossing several beautiful and popular varieties: “flowering”, “abundantly flowering” and “Korean” weigels. Lush flowers have a soft pink hue. It is this variety that most often becomes an ornament landscape compositions.

Released in Poland. The shrub can easily reach three meters in width, while its crown is very compact, with abundant green foliage. The flowers are tubular, red-pink, with a brilliant shade. Starting from June and ending in August, "eva ratke" blooms and smells sweet. You can buy a copy of this "Eva Ratke" on the website of Polish fruit nurseries.

A hybrid with such a "pink" name shines with a lilac-pink color. Its branches are very graceful, with smooth bends. The height of the shrub is about one and a half meters. "Rosea" tolerates winter quite well, but a little shelter for the period of cold weather will not be superfluous.

This variety is distinguished by the fact that it grows quite quickly. Attracts gardeners with its large size (3.5-4 meters in height and 3.5 in width). It blooms in June-July with beautiful ruby ​​\u200b\u200binflorescences.

Video - Weigela flowering and its types

How to choose a weigela seedling?

The variety of varieties of weigela gives gardeners a huge scope for landscape creativity. But which of the honeysuckle family would not be preferred, you should know the basic rules for choosing a seedling:

1. The cuttings must be sufficiently mature (at least 3 years old) and not too short (more than 30 cm). Even very small specimens may well not take root.
2. You should not go to the other extreme - to acquire plants that are too mature (above 1.5 meters). These shrubs, already accustomed to certain conditions, run the risk of simply not adapting to new ones.
3. It is best to choose material for planting with completely closed roots. Such cuttings develop well, and they can be planted until June.
4. If it was decided to purchase a seedling with an open root system, this should be done immediately before planting or shortly before it. In order to safely deliver the plant to the garden, you need to wrap the roots with thick paper.
5. Monitor the condition of the seedling: twigs and buds should not be broken. On trunk and bark healthy tree there will be no signs of damage and signs of disease. The leaves of a good seedling will not have spots, holes and other flaws.

1. When choosing seedlings, it is better to give preference to 40-60 cm samples with 4-5 shoots.
2. If for some reason the roots of the seedling turned out to be dried, it does not matter. Before planting such a cutting, it must be soaked in an earthen mash for 2-3 hours.

Important: earthen talker - a mixture of clay, water and a solution of manganese. All ingredients are stirred until a slurry.

Where to plant weigela?

Despite the fact that the plant is quite shade-tolerant, it needs a well-lit place. This contributes to long and bright flowering. That's why the best place for weigela there will be a small elevation, protected from drafts and fairly well lit. The north side will adversely affect the bush: buds may fall off, therefore, the south side is much more preferable. The soil should be humus, moderately loose. Very good growth will provide loamy or sandy loam soil. In order to successfully plant a shrub in the spring, you should start preparing the soil in the fall. For this you will have to:

• dig up the ground;
• get rid of weeds;
• fertilize the soil.

In creating good conditions for weigela it is very important to prepare high-quality soil for it.

Table 2. Fertilizers for different types of soil

The ingredients must be mixed well. After the fertilizer is ready, it must be scattered over the land allotted for the future planting of shrubs and dug up (the approximate depth is a spade bayonet).

When to plant weigela?

Of course, the best time for planting is spring. Here you have to choose good time, when the buds on the trees had not yet swelled, but the earth had already sufficiently moved away from the winter cold.

Attention: autumn planting is almost always unsuccessful: seedlings die at the first frost.

How to plant weigela?

Planting weigela in the spring is not too different from planting other trees and shrubs in the ground. Despite this, the disembarkation process has a number of features and tricks:

1. First you need to prepare a landing hole measuring 50 by 60 cm.

1. Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pit (rubble, pebbles, broken bricks, etc.). From above you need to fill up a small amount of a useful mixture (1/3 bucket of compost + 30 g of nitrophoska).

1. Carefully place the seedling in the hole. Straighten out the roots.
2. The depth to which the bush is installed should not exceed the level of the root collar too much (no more than 1-2 cm). Focus on the very first roots that move away from the trunk. Fill the hole carefully with soil.

1. At the end of planting, it will not be superfluous to shorten the shoots, leaving 4-5 buds on them. This procedure may enhance tillering in the future.
2. The bush is abundantly watered with water and the soil is mulched.

Transfer

This ornamental shrub does not like to be moved from place to place. And, of course, gardeners try not to do this. But situations are not excluded when it is necessary to transplant the weigela. If such a need arose, then the transplantation process should be carried out exclusively in the spring, before the start of the growing season.

Note: the older the bush, the more careful the movement requires!

The thing is that the development of a shrub implies and active growth its roots. Therefore, in order not to harm the formed root system, it is necessary to dig out the weigel very carefully:

1. First you need to dig around the bush around. The landmark is its crown.
2. The bush is carefully taken out along with a clod of earth and transferred to a ready-made hole.

1. Before placing a plant in a new hole, you need to add 30 g of the mineral complex there.

1. When installing the bush, make sure that its position is even, and the root neck is flush with the ground.
2. The pit is filled with soil. The transplanted bush should be watered well and wait until the water is absorbed, after which the space around the weigela is sprinkled with mulch.

Important: needles, peat, tree bark, sawdust, etc. are usually used as mulch.

Weigela care

Like any plant, weigela needs care and some attention. Caring for her is simple and, as a rule, is needed during the period of growth and strengthening of the bush. Following a few recommendations will help the gardener soon see a lush flowering shrub on his site.

Watering

If the soil around the trunk is mulched, then you will often not have to water the bush. And in general, weigela is quite tolerant of a lack of moisture, although during periods of heat and drought it needs a lot of liquid.

To help the plant clear itself of dust that has settled on the sheets, it is useful to spray. For this, ordinary water is suitable. It will also increase the humidity of the air, which this beauty loves very much.

top dressing

If minerals have already been added to the soil when planting, the first two years you don’t have to worry about fertilizer. Subsequent top dressing should be carried out depending on the season:

• the beginning of spring - diammofoska, "Kemira-Lux", ammophoska or other potash, phosphorus, nitrogen substances;
• early summer (bud formation) - phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.);
• autumn - wood ash (200 g / 1 sq. meter), "Kemira-autumn", "Fertika-autumn" (dosage strictly according to the instructions).

loosening

Quite a useful process. It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush carefully and not too deep to avoid damage to the roots (5-7 cm). In parallel with loosening, weeds must be removed.

pruning

To make the shrub pleasing to the eye, it needs to be trimmed from time to time.

Note: pruning is useful for weigela and will not harm it either in summer or in autumn. However, it is more convenient to cut the shrub in early spring, when there is no dense foliage on it.

Table 3 Weigela haircut

Purpose of pruning	Dates	Technology
Shrub improvement (sanitary)	April-May - before flowering. October-November - before the onset of the dormant period	In the spring, pruning begins during the swelling of the kidneys; You need to prune only branches that have spots, darkening and damage. In the autumn, a haircut is carried out a month before the onset of frost. Branches directed down or inside the bush should be subject to removal.
crown formation	The first 2 years of haircut is not performed. Then June-July - after the end of the first flowering	You need to cut the shoots, depending on the desired shape (cube, ball, pyramid), by no more than 1/3. At the end of the procedure, the soil is fertilized with potassium, humus, mullein with water (1:10) and mulched
Plant rejuvenation	Spring (once every three years)	Branches older than 3 years are subject to removal. The ends of the rest are cut off by 1/3. Sometimes you can cut off all the branches - this will completely rejuvenate the plant.

Video - Planting weigela and caring for it

Protection against diseases and pests

Depending on the season, plants can be exposed to a variety of garden pests and diseases. What can be done?

1. If weigela has suffered from fungi and bacteria, it must be treated with a mixture of copper sulfate and lime.
2. To protect the leaves from rot and rust, you can use the fungicide "Topsin-M" (3%).
3. To get rid of aphids, leaf beetles and other pests, pesticides (Rotor, Keltan, etc.) are effective.

Attention: these drugs contain toxins! When using them, personal protective equipment and full adherence to the instructions are required!

1. A natural and good remedy for aphids and cobwebs is an infusion of potato tops: 2 kg of greens are steamed in 10 liters of boiling water and infused for 10 hours. As soon as the liquid is ready, weigela is sprayed with it (3 times with a five-day interval).
2. From time to time, you can fertilize the shrub with minerals (boron, iron, zinc, magnesium, manganese, copper).

Preparing for winter

Residents of southern Russia should not worry too much about how their weigela will winter. It is enough just before the onset of cold weather to spud and mulch the earth around the bush. Gardeners in snowy regions should not worry too much either: a large layer of snow will warm the bushes perfectly. You just need to tie up the branches and bend them to the ground so that they do not break. In the absence of sufficient snow cover, a good way out is to create a special shelter.

Attention: Weigela shelter procedure should be carried out only in dry weather! Dampness can harm the shrub: the branches will begin to rot and rot.

Weigela reproduction

In the issue of reproduction of this shrub, as a rule, gardeners do not have any special difficulties. There are three ways to propagate weigela:

1. Seminal. It should be noted that this method, although simple, is ineffective: seedlings may not appear at all, or they may not inherit the varietal characteristics of the parent tree. And yet, some gardeners successfully apply this method in practice.

In September, the "boxes" with seeds are already ripe. But they need to be collected not earlier than the moment when their walls begin to crack. This usually happens in November. How to do it? You can wrap the testes with pieces of gauze as early as mid-September. With the onset of November, the “box” is carefully cut off and brought into the room to dry. The seed material is stored in a dark place devoid of moisture until spring and its subsequent planting in the ground.

1. Cherenkovy. This method is very popular and very simple:

• at the end of May, last year's shoots (10-15 cm) are cut from the bush;

• the lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and their tops are shortened;
• soak the branches in "Kornevin" (3-5 minutes);
• immerse the cuttings to a depth of 1-2 cm in a pot with sand and peat;
• cover each of them (jar or bottle);

1. Layering. Perhaps the easiest and least expensive method of breeding weigela. In order to get a new bush, it will be enough to lower the lower shoot closer to the soil, slightly incise the bark with a blade and fill this place with earth. Thus, by next spring, the stalk will take root, and it can be transplanted to another place.

Conclusion

This beautiful shrub that blooms twice a season is able to decorate any garden with itself. In the decor of your site and planning the location of the weigela, it is worth considering its growth and species features:

• large varieties look advantageous both in single and in group options;
• compact ones will be a good decoration for an alpine hill, a flower garden, a Japanese garden;
• high weigels can be placed on all sides of the garden or at the entrance to it, as if they were "watchtowers".

With any placement option, weigela must certainly take into account its features, as well as light and other preferences that are important for the good growth and development of this beautiful ornamental shrub. Then he will rejoice bright colors long years.

Many gardeners in Russia prefer to plant a deciduous ornamental shrub in their summer cottages, which brings zest to the whole appearance - this weigela. Planting and caring for the presented shrub does not require special physical costs and time.

However, like any plant, this decorative beauty should also be looked after according to the rules, which should be considered carefully and determine for yourself whether you can handle the task.

Weigela shrub: types and varieties

The weigela genus has about 15 species, but only varieties that take root well in the summer cottages of Russian citizens are subject to consideration. These include:

Weigela early- by the name of this variety, it can already be assumed that the flowering of the bush begins in early spring. And indeed, the beauty of flowers can be admired in early May. However, there is a small drawback in the presented variety -

flowering period takes no more than 25 days

The bush itself reaches almost 2 meters in height and has a large number of leaves, and then pale pink flowers. Distinctive feature This variety has a gray bark. In most cases it is used as a hedge.

Weigel Middendorf- used by gardeners much more often, since this shrub reaches a height of only 1.5 m, and

its flowering occurs 2 times per season, lasting at least 30 days at a time.

It has flowers of light shades - from creamy white to yellow with small orange veins on the petals.

Weigela blooming- This variety is distinguished by its maximum height. With free growth, flowering weigela can reach 3 meters in height. The flowering of the shrub begins in May-June and takes

at least 30 days

The flowers have an attractive pink hue with a white center.

Weigela Nana Variegata- can reach a height of 1.5 meters. Shrub pleases with variegation

in June-July

The flowers are collected in inflorescences and have pale pink or deep pink hues. The peculiarity of the presented variety is the variegated color of the leaves, which adds to the great attractiveness of the variety.

Weigela Nana Purpurea- a miniature shrub, reaching a length of only 1 m. Pink and white-pink flowers appear in late May or early June and proper care may survive

more than two months

The presented variety of weigela is frost-resistant and completely tolerates even harsh winters Russia, but in the presence of insulating material.

Weigela Korean- reaches a height of no more than 1.5 meters and has inflorescences of buds in the form of bells. Their shade changes its color in the process of growth. At first, the petals are white in color, but after a few days they become saturated. pink color. The presented variety of weigela is more used as a hedge, which does not require special and careful care. The Korean variety is not used to decorate the summer cottage, because

its flowering time does not exceed 15 days

Weigela profusely flowering- the shrub grows quickly and reaches a height of more than 3 meters. Flowering in these representatives begins in May, but

does not last more than 1 month

A feature of the variety is the loss of bright color. If the other varieties at the beginning of flowering have pale shades, and later become more saturated, then the abundantly flowering weigela first has a bright red tint in the flowers, which are replaced by a pale pink color.

When self-planting the described plant, it is recommended to fully study all care features and further conditions of stay during the wintering period.

Flowering and types of weigela, video:

Weigela photo:

weigela in landscape design

photo weigela florida

planting and caring for weigela

photo of blooming weigela

Weigela: planting and care in the open field

Self-cultivation of weigela requires compliance with basic rules that can help to achieve the maximum beauty of the shrub in the shortest possible time. All plant care is concluded in three stages: planting, growing, winter shelter for conservation.

Each of the stages contains its own characteristics, in which novice gardeners make mistakes. Of course, they do not lead to sad consequences, but the very fact of the absence of flowering, which most often follows in such situations, is significantly depressing and sad.

General information on shrub care

Before delving into the details of caring for a plant, its main parameters should be considered. TO the basic rules for caring for weigela of any variety include:

the shrub needs good lighting, only some varieties are ready to grow in partial shade;

an excess of moisture is dangerous for a plant;

the soil should have medium acidity for further productive flowering;

weigela should be regularly fed in compliance with the characteristics and parameters, depending on the variety.

Even a novice gardener can observe the listed aspects. Making mistakes from these aspects can lead to the death of the plant, if resuscitation measures are not taken.

About caring for weigela, video:

Correct fit of the weigela

Start off weigela care follows already at the stage of its disembarkation. This process must be carried out in the spring in April, when the soil has already thawed. In some regions, landing is carried out in May, as long winters are observed and the soil is in a frozen state for a long time.

Beginning gardeners often make the mistake of planting a seedling in the fall. Despite big sizes seedlings, they often do not tolerate winter. And even no precautions and warming helps in this case.

As for the soil, it should be:

• loose and permeable;
• it should not form stagnation of water;
• The soil must have a neutral pH.

Pay special attention to the choice of location. It is necessary to plant a shrub in places protected from the wind, with a slight elevation and good lighting. Without lighting, the weigela will not bloom, and a strong wind will cause the flowering buds to fall off ahead of time.

Land in the following sequence:

1. Prepare the soil if it does not meet the basic requirements for shrub growth. At high level acidity of the soil, a liming procedure should be carried out - scatter slaked lime and dig the site.
2. Now you should choose the right seedling at the time of purchase. To do this, carefully make sure that the young shrub is healthy, without visible damage to the bark of the trunk and branches, and also with roots that have not rotted. It is better to purchase three-year-old seedlings.
3. Before planting, drainage should be laid in the prepared holes. Dig holes measuring 50x50 cm, approximately 40 cm deep. Lay broken brick or gravel in the hole with a layer of at least 15 cm.
4. Mix the earth with which you will subsequently bury the roots of the seedling with potassium salt and superphosphate in the amount of 40 g and 60 g, respectively. This is necessary so that the roots do not burn on contact with the fertilizer.
5. Before planting the weigela, it is necessary to treat the roots with a solution designed to quickly root the seedling in the hole. Often they can be purchased at the nursery where the seedling itself was selected.
6. The roots of the seedling are well straightened, laid on the created drainage, sprinkled with pre-prepared soil and compacted well. Then the seedling must be well watered.
7. The final stage of planting weigela requires soil mulching - laying out a layer of suitable bulk material of natural origin. Chopped bark or sawdust is suitable here. The radius of the covered soil should be at least 50 cm, the layer itself should be at least 10 cm.

If you are planting several seedlings, which is done much more often, then keep the distance between plantings. Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 1 m, and high varieties of shrubs - at least 2 m. Immediately after planting, the conditions and rules for caring for the plant must be observed.

Proper weigela care

Immediately after landing, the weigel requires careful care, which consists in regular watering as the soil dries out and loosening to the depth of the bayonet of a standard shovel. Each time before loosening, the material used in mulching is removed and then a new one is laid.

In the first 4-5 years of shrub growth after planting, such care must be carried out twice per season. In the future, such procedures will be reduced to a minimum.

Proper care of the presented ornamental shrubs implies regular feeding. In the first two years after planting, such procedures are not necessary. There is enough of the complementary food that was carried out even before disembarkation.

In subsequent years, the bush is fed in accordance with the following scheme:

• In early spring, it is necessary to equip the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
• During the period of bud formation, potassium sulfate is used, which contributes to lush flowering.
• The last top dressing is carried out after flowering or before wintering in September-October. Any potash fertilizers are also used here.

Sometimes weigela needs to be transplanted. This may be required during a period of abundant growth of shoots or in order to change the place of cultivation. It is better to transplant a shrub in the spring, since the roots of this plant are especially vulnerable and any change in location can harm the plant.

Weigela transplant in autumn may end sadly. The roots will not only not take root over the winter, but will also die.

Proper pruning of weigela

Weigela should be cut in the spring. At this time, you can remove damaged, dead or frozen branches in order to root the growth of young shoots. To do this, remove the old shoots and cut off the new ones, leaving the two lower ones.

If you leave the shrub in its original form for the whole winter, then the strengthened branches will perfectly protect new shoots, which will lead to their further strengthening in spring and summer.

If pruning was required in the fall, then the basic rules should be followed. It should also be noted that the purpose of the presented process is to prepare the bush for winter. Certain insulation techniques may require correct form bush, which is what gardeners do by removing branches and shoots.
How to cut weigela in autumn:

Pay attention to this material - Ornamental shrubs for summer cottages and gardens.

Trim the shrub to form a crown by cutting it to the required length using a pruner with an oblique cut. Make sure that there are buds on the shoot.

1. Before wintering, you can remove very old and dried branches. They do this almost at the roots themselves, leaving no more than 10-15 cm of the shoot.
2. Keep an eye on your shrub and don't let it grow freely, as this can cause any problems in the normal growth of the weigela.

Trimming shrubs, video:

Proper shelter for the winter weigela

Many gardeners make a characteristic mistake because they do not know exactly what how to cover weigela for the winter.

You will be interested in this article - Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field.

Firstly, back in October, when there is fallen leaves, the shrub must be covered with it to a height of about 20 cm.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure that the snow that has fallen subsequently becomes an excellent protector of the plant. To do this, the branches are connected together and tied with twine. When tying, it is necessary to tilt the bush down. You can also build a special wooden frame structure so that the snow cannot bend new branches.

Thirdly, if there are few snowy winters in the region, the entire bush should be covered with any insulation material that is purchased in specialized stores.

You should not be afraid if the shrub froze over the winter. Even if the appearance of buds did not occur during the period set for flowering, then at the end of summer, most likely, the diversity of colors will envelop the weigela.

Weigela reproduction

It is better to propagate the presented ornamental shrub using green cuttings. It is necessary to separate them even at the stage of “defrosting” the weigela, until new buds have appeared - the period of April-May, depending on the variety. Separate the cuttings with a pruner, creating a straight cut and separating about 10-15 cm with two leaves.

After separation, the cuttings are treated with a special solution to stimulate root growth according to the instructions given.

Next, the cuttings are kept in a dark room at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius for 12 hours. At the end of the time, they must be planted to a depth of half a centimeter in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkle the landing site with sand and cover with polyethylene. Roots appear only after a month, but transplant weigela You can only move to a new place after a year and a half.

Weigela is practically not exposed to pests or diseases. An exception may be infection from other plants growing in the summer cottage.

Observing all the above features of self-cultivation of this ornamental shrub, you will never wonder if why weigela does not bloom. After all, it is often the failure to comply with the basic norms and principles for caring for a plant that leads to such dull results.

Serious mistakes often lead to the death of the entire bush, so if you notice any unpleasant and negative changes in the growth of weigela, take appropriate measures.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub of the honeysuckle family. Wild varieties live in East and Southeast Asia, the Far East and the island of Java. Decorative weigela is very popular in Europe, where it often decorates home gardens, parks and gardens. In our climatic conditions, gardeners can rightfully be proud of the presence of weigela in their area, since not everyone succeeds in growing and maintaining a flowering plant.

Features of growing weigela

To grow this shrub, it is not enough to choose the right variety, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the microclimate and provide the weigel with proper care. Decorative weigela is moisture-loving and loves well-lit spaces, although it takes root well in the shade from sparse tree crowns. True, flowering in the shade will be weak, and the seeds will ripen late. The flower does not tolerate wind, especially the north, for cultivation, you need to choose protected places.

In garden design, weigels are planted in hedges, curtains or singly, undersized species look great on alpine slides. Weigels can be combined into groups, mixed with other shrubs (barberry, spirea, bulldenezh) or with junipers.

With proper care, weigela flowering can occur twice a year - in May-June and in August-September. The second flowering is not very lush, but at the end of May the branches are completely covered with white, yellow, pink or red bell flowers. The color of the petals of this flower changes: young inflorescences gradually acquire a rich color.

Landing

Weigela is planted in the ground in spring. The earth should warm up, but the kidneys do not swell at this time. After autumn planting shrubs often die in the first winter. Find an elevated, well-lit area on the south side of the house. Please note that in a draft, the shrub is unlikely to bloom or crumble even at the bud stage.

Weigels love loose and rich soil with humus - loamy or sandy with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Of all the species of shrubs, only Middendorf weigela grows on peaty soil. Seedlings older than three years are suitable for planting.

Weigela planting methods

Weigela needs loose and permeable soil. Excessive moisture is contraindicated for shrubs; do not plant bushes in areas where water stagnates for a long time after floods or ground water fit too high. Produce acidic soil before planting a bush (in autumn).

Advice. Many seedlings do not take root during autumn planting, so postpone the procedure until early spring by digging seedlings at an angle and covering most of the crown with soil.

When preparing a pit for planting, the quality of the land is taken into account. In rich soil, a depression of 30-40 cm is enough; if the soil is poor, the depth should be increased. Create improved conditions for the plant by laying on the bottom:

• drainage (15 cm of broken brick, sand or gravel),
• a layer of fertile soil fertilized with nitrophoska (100 g per 1.5 buckets of compost).

The bush will take root easier if the roots are treated with a root formation stimulator.

For large varieties of weigela, free space is needed so that they can develop normally. When planting several bushes, place them at a distance of at least one and a half meters. For medium-sized varieties, a gap of 70-80 centimeters will be quite sufficient.

Gently straighten the roots of the seedling and make sure that voids do not form when you fill the soil.

Attention! Do not deepen the root collar more than 2 centimeters so that after the soil settles, it is flush with the surface.

When the seedlings are placed in the ground, water thoroughly and mulch the area. Abundantly water the seedlings should be another 3-4 days. If the summer is dry, water the young bushes regularly, watering may be more moderate next year.

Weigela care

Weigela is easy to care for: moderate watering, weed removal, soil loosening, top dressing and pruning. This plant needs no more attention than many other flowering shrubs.

In a mulched area, frequent watering is not required. After a snowy winter, especially with frozen shoots, in the spring the bushes are watered abundantly - 10 liters of water for each plant. The same irrigation regime is observed in a dry hot summer - a bucket of water every week. To provide air access to the root system and remove weeds, gently loosen the soil around the bush without damaging the roots.

Important! If the bush is in a dry area, aphids can settle on it, affecting leaves and young branches. Keep an eye on the plant and wash it regularly with a strong jet of water.

Top dressing and fertilizer

If, when planting bushes, you introduced nitrophoska and compost into the soil, fertilizer can be omitted for the next two years. In the third year, you should start stimulating the growth of leaves and shoots. To do this, in the spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, it is advisable to apply fertilizer under the bushes:

• urea - 20 g / sq.m;
• superphosphate - 10 g / sq.m;
• potassium salt - 10 g / sq.m.

You can fertilize with ammofoska, diammofoska, "Kemira-Lux" or other top dressing with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.

The second top dressing will be useful when making buds in late spring. Superphosphate is suitable (30 g for each bush). After this, the weigela will bloom luxuriantly, and the branches will strengthen for the winter.

Before autumn digging, carry out the third feeding with wood ash (200 g per square meter). "Kemira - Autumn" works well, the dosage is indicated in the instructions.

Attention! After each top dressing, water the bush abundantly and spray with soapy water and alcohol.

Pruning weigela

Weigela, like all shrubs, needs regular shearing. Sanitary pruning is carried out on young bushes. In early spring, cut off frozen, broken and extra branches.

For mature plants, pruning is required to form a bush. When the first flowering is over, trim the plant carefully. This should be done before the appearance of new shoots, on which flowers bloom at the end of summer. If you were unable to cut the bush in time, skip the summer haircut, otherwise there will be no second flowering.

The third pruning is carried out once every three or four years to rejuvenate the bush. Remove all old branches (3 years or more), and shorten by a third. A stimulating haircut promotes the appearance of young shoots and becomes a prevention of diseases that could settle in the bark of old branches. You can arrange a radical shake-up of the weigel by cutting off all the shoots - after that the bush will quickly recover.

Advice. Between spring and autumn flowering, lighten adult bushes by cutting off old shoots at the base.

Weigela transplant

Do not take literally the recommendations to transplant plants, especially garden plants, in the spring. We are talking about a transplant only when absolutely necessary: ​​with an unsuccessfully chosen place, unsuitable soil, shading, etc. If repotting is needed, it should be done in the spring, but don't repot the plants every year.

Dig up the weigela very carefully, try to preserve the roots as much as possible. Clean and inspect the root system, check for signs of disease, decay, raids and other pathological changes. If you see that the roots are very damaged, it makes no sense to replant the bush, it is better to grow a new plant from a cutting.

Advice. If you dug up a plant and find that its roots are tangled, try to untangle them without damaging them.

Do not transplant the bush in the fall, as the probability of survival in this case is too small - the roots will not be able to take root and will die.

Weigela reproduction

The shrub can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering.

Reproduction by seeds

Seeds ripen in September, by November the boxes crack and you can start collecting seed material. Wrap several seed pods with cheesecloth and cut off when the seeds are fully ripe. Shake out the contents on paper and dry. Remove the dried seeds in a paper bag and set aside until spring in a dark, dry place. Seeds remain viable for 1-2 years, but weigels grown from seeds almost never retain the varietal characteristics of their parent.

At home, you can sow seeds in a pot and create greenhouse conditions for them. In the spring, shoots will break through, leave the strongest until next year. Then the seedlings can be transplanted into a school or planted for two years under an adult bush. The process, as you can see, is complex and long, and the result is unpredictable. We recommend propagating weigela vegetatively.

Vegetative reproduction

It is much easier to propagate weigela with young green shoots, semi-lignified cuttings, stump growth and layering.

green cuttings

Cut off the young shoots of the current year, cut the leaves completely or leave half of the leaf plate. Treat one edge of the cutting with a root stimulator.

A green cutting is planted at the end of June. Prepare the soil from peat with sand, the top layer is sand (3 cm). It is enough to deepen the cutting by 1 cm and cover it with a cut plastic bottle or film. Every day, let the cutting breathe, lifting the cover for several hours. The probability of rooting a green cutting is very high, there are almost no failures.

Weigela grown in this way begins to bloom in two years. In order for the plant to develop more actively, it is recommended to cut off the buds.

last year's cuttings

In early spring, cut off a semi-lignified cutting. This must be done before the leaves begin to bloom. Treat the end with a root stimulator. You can plant a cutting in a pot or in open ground. In the second case, choose a slightly shaded place. Cover the stalk with a jar and ventilate it daily. Growing a weigela from a semi-lignified cutting is somewhat more difficult than from a green shoot. If a new shoot appears in a month, then rooting has occurred and the cutting can be pinched.

Young growth from a stump

With this method of reproduction, rooting occurs in the same way as in the cases described above.

layering

This shrub, like many others, often grows branches inclined to the ground. Bend down such an escape and scratch the bark at the place of its contact with the soil. Lubricate with a root stimulator, pin and sprinkle with earth. Next year you will receive a full-fledged seedling. Disconnect the layer from the bush and place it in the place intended for it.

The division of the bush

This method is usually used to propagate herbaceous plants, but shrubs can also be divided if they have grown too much, or when transplanting.

Dig up a bush during the dormant period and wash off the ground. Divide the plant into parts, young roots along the edges of the bush are suitable for reproduction. Before planting, cut off all branches so that the root system can develop without unnecessary stress. Plants after division are immediately planted in the ground.

Weigela flowering

Many varieties of this shrub are good not only for bright tubular bell flowers, but also for leaves. Weigela foliage is velvet, green or purple, with a white border. But the main advantage of this species is still an abundant two-time flowering. The first time weigels bloom on last year's shoots, and the second flowering takes place on young twigs. Autumn flowering is not as active as spring, but still the bush strewn with fluffy flowers looks extremely impressive. Flowers in pockets of leaves are collected in inflorescences at the tops of the shoots. The size of each flower can reach five centimeters.

Problems, diseases, pests

Weigela rarely gets sick and is resistant to pests, but with signs of damage, urgent measures must be taken. The disease is evidenced by the active fall of foliage, the appearance white plaque, spots of yellow or purple color.

Common shrub pests are aphids and mealybugs. A timely detected problem is easily eliminated after two treatments of the crown with any insecticide. Infusions of hot pepper, garlic or potato tops are also effective. Spotting on the leaves is treated with fungicides, a mixture of milk of lime and copper sulfate or Topsin.

If the seedlings turn yellow and wither, it is possible that their roots are damaged by the larvae of the bear or the cockchafer brought in with compost. Water the soil with karbofos or aktara.

It is much more difficult to overcome bacterial root canker, in which rounded swellings appear on the roots that harden over time. Unfortunately, we have not yet learned how to deal with this disease and it is better to remove the bush until neighboring plants have become infected.

Popular types

Weigela Alexandra

Weigela Alexandra

The shrub reaches one and a half meters. This species has burgundy leaves and red-pink flowers. This species feels good in the middle lane. Shoots quickly recover after freezing.

Weigela Nana variegata

Weigela Nana variegata

Dwarf shrub with variegated leaves and clusters of white-pink or raspberry flowers. Growth is slow, suitable for rocky gardens.

Weigela variegated

Weigela variegated

The leaves of this species of weigela are distinguished by a white border on the edges of the leaves. Reaches one and a half meters in height.

Weigela red

Weigela red

Purple variety with a dense crown. Reddish-brown leaves and rich yellow-throated flowers make this species especially popular.

Weigela yellow

Weigela yellow

Or Weigela Middendorf - the most winter-hardy species, suitable for growing in open spaces and under trees.

Weigela hybrid

Weigela hybrid

Weigel group obtained as a result of hybridization. Most adapted to the climate of the southern territories. The color of the leaves and inflorescences is varied. Weigela flowers in the wild are odorless, but hybridization made it possible to endow the inflorescences with a delicate aroma.

• In winter, weigela bushes freeze above the level of the snow cover, so choose a place on the site where the snowdrifts are high.
• After snowfalls and in spring, when the snow becomes heavy, shake off the weigela branches so that they do not break off.

It is useful to process the shrub with infusions:

• onion peel (200 g insist 5 days in 10 liters of water);
• garlic (300 g of chopped unpeeled garlic stand for a day in 10 liters of water);
• potato tops (1 kg pour 10 liters of hot water and leave for 2 hours).

Spraying of plants is carried out in the evening.

Answers on questions

How long does a shrub live?

If you managed to create favorable conditions and organize good care, the shrub can live up to 50 years.

Why doesn't weigela bloom?

The plant may not bloom in the shade, due to lack of light, the shoots become stiff, and flowering becomes very scarce or completely absent. Another reason is insufficient watering and lack of top dressing. If these obstacles are excluded, pay attention to the root system, it may be damaged by pests.

What should be the care of the bush in winter?

After leaf fall, in October-November, the near-trunk area must be sprinkled with soil to a height of 20 cm. Bend the branches to the ground and press, trying not to damage. Cover the bush with roofing material (spunbond) and strengthen the “roof” so that the wind does not tear it off in winter. You can not bend the branches, but pull them together with twine, enclose the bush with a net. Inside this structure, pour dry leaves and spruce branches. Insulate the building well. If weigela is left unprotected, the shoots will die in frost and flowering will not occur.

Weigela is directly related to the honeysuckle family. This plant is represented by shrubs. The plant was named after the German Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel, who was a botanist, chemist and pharmacologist. Under natural conditions, this plant is found in eastern and southeastern Asia, the Far East and the island of Java. The genus unites 15 species represented by deciduous shrubs. Only 7 species and 10 varieties are cultivated, which are highly decorative. Weigela not only has a very effective appearance, but relatively unpretentious, and it can be easily propagated.

Weigela features

The plant loves moisture and grows quite well in the shade. This upright shrub does not form stolons. Petiolate, oppositely located leaf blades do not have stipules; they are serrated or serrated. The length of the bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers is about 5 centimeters. Flowers solitary or in loose inflorescences. They can be painted in cream, carmine red, pink, yellow and other colors, while often during flowering the color changes from a paler shade to a brighter one. The fruits are represented by a double-wing box, inside of which are small seeds.

Planting weigela

What time to plant

The best time to plant weigela is spring. At the same time, it is necessary to have time to plant the plant before the buds swell, but the earth should already warm up, in which case it will be accepted very well. A shrub planted in autumn dies during the first wintering.

It is best to choose a landing site on a hill, while it should be protected from drafts and the north wind, which can cause flowers and buds to shed. It is better to plant a weigela on the south side of the building. At good lighting the flowers are very bright, and flowering is plentiful. For planting, you need loose soil with a lot of humus. Suitable loamy or clayey soil is neutral or slightly alkaline. It should be noted that Middendorf's weigela (Weigela middendorffiana) can be planted in peaty, slightly acidic soil. The seedling to be planted must be at least 3 years old.

How to plant

The depth of the landing hole is from 30 to 40 centimeters. If the soil is infertile, then the pit should be made deeper, because on the drainage layer (15 centimeters high), which can be made from gravel, brick fragments or sand, a layer of nutrient-rich soil should be laid (1.5 buckets of compost plus 100 grams of nitrophoska ). Fertilizer should be well mixed with compost. In order for the seedling to be better accepted, its roots can be treated with a substance that stimulates root growth (Viva + or Radipharm).

If the weigela seedling is of a medium-sized variety (not higher than 100 centimeters), then a distance of at least 80 centimeters should be left between the bushes, the gaps between bushes of high varieties (height up to 250 centimeters) should be from 150 to 200 centimeters. During planting, do not forget to straighten the roots of the seedling, the soil will need to be gradually poured into the hole and tamped in order to eliminate the possibility of voids. It is possible to deepen the root neck by only 10–20 mm, but it is desirable that when the soil settles after watering, it is flush with the ground. The planted plant should be well watered, and sprinkle the surface of the soil with a layer of mulch.

Weigela care

Spring

Growing such a shrub is easy, and even a beginner can handle it. Weigela needs to be watered only during the dry period, while a large amount of water is used (if the trunk circle is mulched, then watering will be more rare). It is also necessary to carry out timely weeding and loosening of the soil, which is done very carefully with only half of the shovel bayonet, otherwise the root system can be damaged. You also need to feed the plant in a timely manner, and if you added nitrophoska and compost during planting in the hole, then the bush will not need to be fed for 2 years. In the third year, at the beginning of spring, weigela needs to be fed, for this a full mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil, for example: diammophoska, ammophoska, Kemira-lux or other fertilizers, which include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. In the last days of spring or the first - summer during budding, it is necessary to make a second top dressing, while you need to take phosphate and potash fertilizers (potassium sulfate, superphosphate, etc.). Thanks to this, the plant will bloom for a long time and abundantly, and the branches will also strengthen, which is good for wintering. The third time the bush is fed during digging in the fall, while taking wood ash(for 1 m2 you will need 200 g of top dressing). You can use Kemira-autumn fertilizer for this purpose, while the dosage should be seen in the instructions.

Bloom

Such a shrub blooms 2 times per season. The first lush flowering is observed from the second half of May to mid-June, while the flowers appear on the shoots of the previous year. The second time the shrub blooms in August and blooms until September. At the same time, flowering is less plentiful than in spring, and flowers grow on the shoots of the current year. During flowering, the plant looks very impressive.

Weigela reproduction

The plant can be easily propagated by seeds. It should be taken into account that their germination lasts only for 1-2 years, therefore, sow seeds in boxes or greenhouses experienced gardeners do not recommend. The easiest way to propagate weigela is self-sowing. In the spring, when shoots appear from the seeds that have fallen into the ground, it will be necessary to select the strongest ones and remove the rest. They will need to grow, which lasts 2 years, only after that they can be transplanted to a permanent place. But at the same time, it must be taken into account that with this method of reproduction, varietal characteristics are not always preserved. In this regard, gardeners with considerable experience recommend vegetative propagation, namely: layering, young shoots from a stump, as well as summer green or last year's semi-lignified cuttings. For cutting cuttings, the length of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters, you should choose green shoots of this year (cut off in the last days of June) or last year's semi-lignified shoots (cutting is carried out before sap flow begins), or you can cut root shoots. The leaf plates at the bottom of the cuttings must be cut off, while the upper ones must be shortened by ½. The cut from the bottom must be dipped in Kornevin. The cutting is planted in soil consisting of peat and sand, while its surface should be covered with a layer of sand equal to 4 centimeters. The cutting must be deepened by only 10 mm, no more. Each plant should be covered with a cut plastic bottle or glass jar. Shelter daily needs to be removed for some time for airing and watering. The young shoots that have appeared need to be pinched in order for the plant to be more bushy.

Layering should be propagated differently. Choose the strongest bottom shoot and bend it to the ground surface. In the place of contact with the ground on the shoot, you need to cut the bark a little. Then it is fixed on the surface of the soil and sprinkled with soil. Already next spring, the layering will fully take root. Layers and cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place only at the age of three.

How to cut

Weigele, like all shrubs, needs pruning. Young bushes need pruning only for sanitary purposes. To do this, at the beginning of spring, you need to cut off those branches that thicken the plant, as well as sick, injured and damaged by frost. Older plants need formative pruning, it must be carried out after the weigela blooms for the first time (in the middle of the summer period), while young shoots should not yet grow. It is worth remembering that during repeated flowering, flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. In this regard, if you did not carry out the formative pruning in time, and new branches began to grow, then it is recommended to postpone it until next year. Adult shrubs need anti-aging pruning, carried out 1 time in 3 years, while cutting off all branches that are more than 3 years old, and those that remain should be cut off by 1/3. In some cases, it may be necessary to cut all the branches; after this pruning, the weigel recovers very well.

Diseases and pests

Often, leaf-eating caterpillars and aphids settle on this shrub. During a long period of heat and drought, thrips or spider mites can settle on the plant. However, by the beginning of the drought period, the weigela is already ending its first flowering. In order to destroy these harmful insects, it is recommended to use pesticides such as: nitrafen, rogor or celtan, but it should be taken into account that they harm environment. There are more harmless means for combating harmful insects - these are insecticidal infusions prepared from plants such as hot pepper, wormwood or garlic. If the planted seedlings turn yellow and begin to fade, then this is most likely due to the fact that a bear has started up in the root system or the larvae of the May beetle have settled. They could get into the ground along with compost or humus during planting. To destroy them, it is necessary to water the bush with a solution of aktara or karbofos.

Weigela most often suffers from gray rot, rust, and spotting. In order to get rid of a fungal or bacterial disease, you need to treat the bush with Bordeaux liquid (copper sulfate mixed with milk of lime). For preventive purposes, it is possible to treat the plant during the appearance of leaves with Topsin solution (3%).

Weigela after flowering

Seed collection

Seeds mature in September and are harvested in October after the pods begin to crack. In order for the seeds not to spill out onto the surface of the soil, it is necessary to wrap several pieces of testes with gauze in September and fix it on the branch. After the box is ripe, you need to carefully cut it and bring it into the room. There you can remove the gauze and pour the seeds on a newspaper. After the seeds have dried, they must be poured into a paper bag, on which do not forget to mark the name of the plant, its variety and the date when the seeds were collected. They must be put in a dark, dry place where they will have to be stored until the onset of the spring period. It should be remembered that the seeds retain good germination only for 1–2 years, while shrubs grown from seeds may not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Wintering

After the end of leaf fall (in the last days of October or the first - November), it is necessary to cover the near-stem circle of the shrub with a layer of soil, while the height of the mound should be from 15 to 20 centimeters. It is recommended to bend the branches to the surface of the soil and fix them. From above, the bush is covered with a spunbond or roofing material, while the shelter is pressed down so that it is not blown away by the wind. You can not bend the branches, but tie them with twine or rope, pulling them together well. Enclose the plant with a plastic or metal mesh. Inside the resulting structure, it is necessary to pour dry fallen leaves. On top of the structure, you need to insulate with a covering dense material.

The main types and varieties with photos and names

For mid-latitude gardeners, weigela varieties that are resistant to frost are most suitable. These include the species and varieties described below.

Early weigela, or pleasant weigela (Weigela praecox)

Under natural conditions, it grows in the Far East. The bush reaches a height of about 200 centimeters. There is pubescence on the surface of the foliage. The crown is spherical. The outer part of the flowers is rich pink. Inflorescences consist of 2 or 3 flowers, while they grow on the side shoots of this year. It happens that the pharynx of the flower has a white-yellow color, in the buds the flowers are colored purple. Flowering begins in the last days of May and lasts from 10 to 30 days. The variegated variety of weigela variegated is of the greatest interest. On the surface of the green leaf plates there are spots of yellow color, in the summer they become creamy.

Weigela blooming, or weigela florida (Weigela florida)

The height of the bush reaches 300 centimeters. On the surface of the shoots there are 2 rows of hairs. Short-petiolate serrate leaf blades on the front side have pubescence located along the central vein, while on the wrong side all veins have pubescence. Inflorescences consist of 3 or 4 flowers, painted in deep pink, which open in the last days of May. Flowering lasts approximately 20 days.

Popular Shapes:

1. Weigela purple, or red weigela (Weigela Purpurea). The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters, there is a lush crown. Leaf plates are brownish-red in color, bright pink flowers have a yellow throat. Flowering occurs in June and July. The Nana Purpurea variety is very similar to the purple weigela, but the bush is smaller.
2. Alba. This is a dwarf form. White flowers turn pink as they wither.
3. Variegata. This form is very beautiful and the most frost-resistant. Has small leaves. Racemose inflorescences consist of rich pink flowers.
4. Weigela pink (Weigela florida Bunge). Outside surface flowers are carmine-pink, and the inner one is almost white.
5. Weigela Victoria (Weigela florida Victoria). The height of the bush is about 100 centimeters. The foliage is brownish-red, and the flowers are purple in color.

Weigela hybrid (Weigela hybrida)

It has a spreading crown, lush flowering. The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters. Fragrant flowers have a funnel-tubular shape, they can be part of loose inflorescences or be single. Depending on the variety, the color of the flowers can be pink, purple, purple, white, purple-red.

Popular varieties:

1. Bristol Ruby. The variety appeared in 1941 in the USA. The bush can reach a height of 250-300 centimeters, while the diameter of its crown is 350 centimeters. The leaves are rich green in color. Pink flowers have ruby-red edges, sometimes their center is colored in Orange color. This fast growing plant begins to bloom in the last days of June.
2. Red Prince. Variety bred in the USA. A compact bush in height can reach 150 centimeters. It has a spreading crown, drooping branches. Bright red flowers look very beautiful against the background of green leaves.

Weigela middendorffiana

The height of the bush can vary from 100 to 150 centimeters. Ascending shoots. Large (from 3 to 4 centimeters) yellow flowers have orange spots in the throat. They are part of few-flowered inflorescences of 2-6 pieces or are single. Flowering is observed twice per season.

Also, quite often, gardeners grow profusely flowering weigela, pleasant weigela, early weigela, Japanese weigela, garden weigela, Maksimovich weigela and Korean weigela.

A flowering shrub with a beautiful name seems exotic to our gardeners, but in fact it deserves to take a place in a flower bed, both by right of origin and because of its beauty. If you are not yet enjoying the lush flowering and fragrance, be sure to get acquainted with the weigela, because planting in open ground and caring for it is not as difficult as it seems.

The role of weigela in landscape design

Weigela is perennial shrub, akin to honeysuckle.

Landscape designers love weigela for two features. Firstly, this shrub blooms twice a year, so it is easier to arrange a flower bed with continuous flowering with it. The second highlight is the change in the shade of the flowers. Newly opened buds are light, while fully open buds are bright. Weigela simply amazes with the play of shades in each flower cluster.

A lush tall weigela bush looks great against the backdrop of a lawn

Usually weigela begins to bloom from mid-May and ends only in mid-June. Summer flowering is the most beautiful and lush, often greenery is not visible behind the buds. At the end of August, the bush is again covered with inflorescences, but on a more modest scale. Flowers remain on the weigel until the very end of September.

Landscape designers use this shrub:

• in single landings as a bright accent on the lawn;

  Weigela stem looks no worse than pink

• in group plantings to cover bare tree trunks, especially with an openwork crown;

  The slightly disheveled weigela bush contrasts perfectly with the tall spruce cone

• on alpine slides and rockeries (mostly low-growing varieties);

  Dwarf weigela will become a bright spot against the background of rough cobblestones

• as a hedge (tall) and mixborder (low and medium).

  Even a low weigela hedge can transform a boring gray fence.

That is, in almost any role that other ornamental shrubs perform, weigela can also come in handy. By the way, thanks varietal diversity shrub, from different subspecies of weigel, you can create beautiful compositions.

The plant grows well next to traditional rockeries. conifers, as well as other shrubs: spirea, cotoneaster, viburnum (preferably Buldenezh), barberry, Japanese quince.

Climate requirements

In nature, weigela grows in Central Asia, more than 15 varieties of this plant were found there. Only three species are found on the territory of the Russian Federation, all of them grow in the southeast of the country.

If you come across an early, Middendorf or pleasant Weigel for sale, know that these are wild species. They will grow well in the Far East, but are not adapted to a more severe climate.

Varietal weigels came to us from Europe, where they were popularized by a professor of botany named von Weigel. Therefore, they are quite resistant to cold climates and feel great in the middle zone of the Russian Federation under the open sky.

Automating watering weigela is a great way to provide a moisture-loving plant with the correct humidity regime.

Weigela prefers fertile soil with plenty of humus, alkaline or neutral reaction and good aeration (loose or loosened). It is extremely important not to allow waterlogging, otherwise the plant, accustomed to a drier climate, will quickly die.

If your region has acidic soil or you cannot provide the weigel with the correct moisture regime, it is better to grow this shrub in a tub. If there is a fairly dry place on the site and you are ready, if necessary, to apply the necessary fertilizers and regulate the reaction of the soil, landing in the ground is quite acceptable.

Usually weigela grows in a tub only until it reaches the age of three.

Popular varieties

Weigela is incredibly diverse in color and flower shape, bush height and crown characteristics. Thanks to the efforts of specialists, every gardener can find a variety of this shrub that fully meets his needs and tastes. Among the most famous subspecies of weigela:

• Bristol Ruby is a tall subspecies of hybrid origin. Well suited for single plantings and hedges, it grows up to 2.3 m in diameter and up to 3.5 m in height. It got its name because of the red-ruby flowers that bloom in June-July. Quickly recovers after pruning;
• Nana Variegata is a slow growing dwarf variety bred specifically for rockeries. The leaves are white-variegated, and this is a marker of light-loving varieties. The flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3-4, have a pale pink or crimson color;
• Middendorf is a natural type of medium-sized shrub (1–1.5 m). The leaves are bright green with a bilateral edge along the veins. The flowers are medium yellow, grow singly or 2-6 on one peduncle. Blooms twice, in our climate for 25-30 days. Weigela Middendorf is the only subspecies that easily tolerates the acidic reaction of the soil and grows on peaty soil;
• Candida is a tall variety with white flowers. It is popular with foreign gardeners.
• Eva Ratke is a Polish hybrid of Korean and profusely flowering weigela. The bush has a height of 0.7–1 m, the crown is compact. Tubular flowers of a carmine shade with shine appear in July-August. The growth rate is moderate. Needs shelter for the winter.

The most beautiful varieties of weigela in the photo

The natural form of Weigela Korean is one of the few varieties that can be propagated by seeds Large ruby ​​bells in small inflorescences are the visiting card of Weigela Bristol Ruby Dwarf weigela Nana Variegata looks very gentle and romantic Nana Purpurea variety is easily recognizable by its purple flowers against the background of dark burgundy-green leaves Weigela the Red Prince differs not so much in red flowers as in characteristic wavy leaves. Pink flowers with an elongated funnel and dark reddish leaves confirm that weigela Alexander is in front of you. jasmine and mock orange At first glance, Eva Rathke looks like the Red Prince, but she is given out by flatter leaf blades. Weigela Carnival is just a holiday in shades of pink Sunny Princess variety one of the most gentle and noble Weigela Victoria is related to Alexandra, only her flower funnels are shorter and wider leaves Ruby Star - not just another variety with red flowers, its tone of petals contrasts less with the shade of foliage Japanese weigela - another natural masterpiece You can recognize the Olympiad variety by its fuchsia petals and the bright green tone of wide leaf plates Weigela variegated stands out among relatives with a light edging of leaf plates, Weigela All Summer Red strongly resembles Bristol Ruby, but it can be distinguished by rich red colors without a raspberry undertone Sunny Princes is not always pale pink, it can be bright This weigela can definitely become the star of your flower bed Japanese weigela always ready to surprise with a variety of forms Weigela Olympias is notable for its yellow-green tint of leaves White flowers with a pink center go well with the variegated leaves of this weigela It is easy to notice that Alexandra and Victoria are close relatives of the Minor Black variety Weigela Rosea is the embodied girl's dream of Weigela Ebony and Ivory - it is a harmonious combination of ivory flowers and almost ebony shoots with dark leaves Weigela Monet looks very decorative even when there are no flowers on it. The fragrance of Weigela Tango will cheer you up no worse than the dance of the same name. In autumn, Weigela Wings Of Fire really resembles a burning fire. Young leaves of Victoria Weigela have an olive color and only darken with time. Weigela Pink Poppet during the flowering period will overshadow the beauty of any rose Despite the negative associations with the name, weigela Lucifer is a luxuriously beautiful shrub Brighella is a classic representative of the weigela species, it is with the first associations that arise at the mention of this word. Even if you do not like pink shades, weigela flowering Florida will not leave you indifferent weigela with a dance name - Minuet In this variety, the creators tried to enhance the contrast between white flowers and dark leaves. If the varieties Alexandra and Victoria are too cheerful for you, weigela Minor Black will help create a gothic atmosphere

For all types of weigela, the opposite arrangement of leaves, the absence of stipules, the funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers, the upright position of the shoots and the fruits in the form of bivalve boxes remain common. By these signs, you can easily recognize relatives, even if other parameters vary greatly.

Video about the types and varieties of shrubs

Planting methods in open ground

Weigela planting traditionally begins with a choice suitable place. It should be sunny or located in a weak penumbra, this southeastern beauty does not like strong shading. Light-loving varieties with edging on the leaves are planted only in a sunny place. Another important point- wind. There must be protection from it (a building, a fence, a less sensitive shrub), otherwise strong gusts will dishevel flowers and foliage.

We plant weigela seedlings:

1. Dig a hole in the chosen place 50x50 cm and half a meter deep. For regions with fertile land where active feeding is not required, a hole depth of 40 cm is recommended. If there are several seedlings, make sure that the distance between them is 2 m for tall varieties and 0.8 m for undersized ones, as over time the bush forms a lush crown.

   If possible, try to clear the site of weed roots in advance

2. Put drainage at the bottom of the pit - layers of gravel and sand. The layer thickness is about 15 cm, it is better not to reduce it.

   Any stones, fragments of bricks or ceramics of a suitable size can be used as drainage.

3. Place the seedling in the hole and carefully cover it with a potting mix of 2 parts humus/leaf soil, 2 parts sand, and 1 part soddy soil. If your garden does not have enough fertile soil, add 100g of nitrophoska and 15l of compost to the soil mixture for each bush. Compact the ground manually and lightly (weigela roots feel better in loose soil). The root neck should be at ground level.

   If your weigela is grown in a container, you do not need to free the roots from the ground, plant it with a clod

4. Water the plants generously and mulch the root circle.

   If there is enough water, the puddle will soak into the ground for quite some time.

Three-year-old seedlings from the nursery are best suited for this method, younger plants are not yet ready to grow outdoors without additional supervision.

If experience suggests that the survival rate of plants in your garden is low, you can treat weigela with a growth stimulator (Radifarm, Viva +).

Weigela care in the garden

If you know the basic needs of weigela, caring for it becomes not too difficult.

Firstly, the plant needs constant aeration, so the soil in the trunk circle must be loosened regularly. After watering or weeding, it is imperative to cultivate the land to a depth of 5–8 cm. Since not every garden owner can devote so much time to a single bush, you can find an easier way out - mulch the near-stem circle with peat or sawdust. If the mulch layer is 10 cm, the need for frequent loosening will completely disappear.

Sawdust, needles, bark chips are excellent mulching materials

The root system of the weigela is fibrous (without a clearly defined central root going deep), but diverges to the sides not too close to the surface. Therefore, when loosening, you can be sure that when the bayonet of the shovel is completely deepened, you will not damage the roots.

The second need is water procedures. It is especially important to water the weigela during the period of drought and in the spring after a snowy winter. You should not feel sorry for moisture - each bush needs a bucket of water for 8-10 liters.

When pruning, be sure to keep in mind that the plant reacts differently to each type of pruning.

The third stage of caring procedures is pruning. The annual is held in the spring to remove branches frozen over the winter. It is necessary to form a bush only once in 2-3 years.

Video: pruning a young plant

How to care during growth and flowering

To help weigela prepare for lush spring flowering, it needs to be fed. Mineral fertilizers are applied even in the snow, so that when the plant wakes up, it can immediately take advantage of useful elements. Urea (20 g per m2), superphosphate and potassium salt (10 g per m2) are used as top dressing.

The time for the second treat comes at the time of the formation of flower buds. Then weigel needs double superphosphate and potassium sulfate (30 g per 1 bush or 1 m2 of area). The third top dressing is carried out before autumn digging and consists of ash (200 g per 1 m2) or a specialized composition (for example, Kemira-autumn).

Weigela responds well to universal fertilizers

After fertilizing, the plants must be watered very abundantly.

Once I lost several ornamental bushes due to too much top dressing. I so wanted to have more flowers that I carried out additional processing with mineral fertilizers with a high concentration. I myself don’t understand how, having an additional education as a chemical analysis laboratory assistant, I could be so negligent about chemicals. But the shameful result in three of the shabby skeletons of the once strong bushes acted more effectively than any lectures, exams and an additional tub of cold water. After that, I try to never forget that any top dressing is a serious chemical experience no matter how ordinary he looks. I even got myself a notebook with observations and always write down what and when I did in my kindergarten in order to prevent such annoying situations from happening again, not from an excess of enthusiasm, but simply out of forgetfulness.

Care after flowering

Immediately after the end of flowering, the best time comes for shaping weigela pruning. At the same time, old shoots are removed, and young ones are shortened by half. The second procedure is delayed for 2 or even 3 years. Further work is carried out according to the calendar, taking into account the weather, the climate of your region and the condition of the plants.

One of the most difficult tasks in caring for weigela is to properly prepare a heat-loving plant for winter. As the saying goes, it's better to be overdressed than underdressed. Gardeners use two methods of sheltering: with pressed branches and collected.

If necessary, to protect the bush from the weight of snow, you can make a frame of crossed sticks under the covering material

A short and young shrub is “spread out” on the ground for the winter, carefully bending the branches and fixing them so that they do not crack down. Such a mound can be framed with mulch and covered with a waterproof material of your choice (from spandbod to film), and then fix the shelter. It is convenient to do this from above with spruce branches, and around the bush - with stones.

Such a winter shelter is enough for the middle lane

Tall bushes with stiff branches are easy to break with this approach, so they are covered in an upright position. It is necessary to tie the bush into a loose bundle, cover it with the selected material and protect it with a wire frame.

Video: secrets of handling weigela

As a lazy gardener, I really love the tradition of decorating flower beds with stones. At first, when hiding a bush, I had to look for suitable pebbles throughout the site and even secretly from my husband to adapt building materials for this business. Then I just found the right amount of beautiful rounded stones from my neighbors and acquaintances, and now I always keep them near the bushes. They are decorative in summer and functional in winter.

What problems do gardeners face?

One of the possible difficulties when planting weigela is the wrong time. If most other shrubs and trees are preferred to be planted in the fall, it is best to relocate in the spring. Bushes of autumn planting take root much worse and die more often. To “preserve” seedlings until spring (if you accidentally or unknowingly acquired them in the fall), dig them in an inclined position and sprinkle most of the crown with earth. In this state, the weigela will successfully winter and you can plant it in the spring.

The remaining problems are also in most cases associated with the untimely implementation of garden robots, or their insufficient number.

Video: weigela in your own garden

Table: seasonal care work

I will say a banality, but the plants in your own garden are almost children. While I was too lazy to deal with them more often 2-3 times a year, they somehow managed on their own and looked almost decent. But just as a mother is disappointed with her own kids, watching the success of their peers, so I began to be ashamed of my flower bed, getting to visit my friends. I formed the flower bed precisely from the calculation of saving time, since I love flowers, and I hate to sow annuals every year. But you also have to tinker with the bushes so that they are really beautiful. Given that gardening enthusiasm attacks me in short bursts and usually out of season, it was really difficult to synchronize the needs of the plants and my own mood. Over time, I managed to discipline myself and include the minimum care required for a flower bed in my daily plans. The result turned out both with and without a manicure - it seems like a trifle, but the image changes dramatically. True, new plants now appear extremely rarely - I treat everyone like a foster baby.

Reproduction methods

Gardeners practice weigela propagation by seeds and vegetative methods: cuttings (rooting of cut shoots), layering (rooting of shoots by bending down and falling asleep with earth without breaking away from the bush), young shoots of a stump (“children” that regularly appear at the root neck). The cultivation of cuttings from shoots and shoots is carried out identically, and the layering method is simpler, since young growth does not require additional care at the rooting stage.

Weigela is most often propagated by arcuate layering.

How to grow weigela seedlings

Unlike many other ornamental shrubs, weigela reproduces well by seeds. The collected seeds remain viable for a whole year, but they should not be stored longer. Preliminary preparation seeds are not required, they are quite tenacious and without additional help. For sowing, you can use seedling trays or flower pots covered with foil, in general, any semblance of a mini-greenhouse.

As a rule, all plants sprout at the same time, which greatly simplifies the care of young shoots. Picking is carried out after the appearance of the second pair of leaves, then you can do weeding. If the seedlings have enough space left to grow (7-8 cm between neighbors), in the future they require only watering.

If you could not find picking tools, you can use improvised means

At the end of the first year after germination, the seedlings grow up to 6–7 cm in height, and the root system occupies a plot with a diameter of 3–5 cm. At this stage of life, the stem does not branch yet, but it has 3 or more pairs of leaves, as well as axillary and apical buds. These seedlings are ready to grow outdoors. It is best to take the boxes into the garden and place them under the trees that create partial shade.

Such a bush is suitable for planting in the ground or tub

By the second year of life, the seedling has a height of 40–50 cm and has a well-grown superficial root system. Such a plant can already find a permanent residence in your garden. But the first flowers will have to wait another 2 years.

The seed propagation method is not suitable for hybrid and garden forms weigels that have the right decorative properties were given by vaccination. It is best to sow natural forms of weigela: pleasant, early, Middendorf.

We grow weigela from cuttings

Vegetative reproduction - The best way preserve the varietal characteristics of your green pet. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-June, when spring flower buds have already fulfilled their function, and new ones have not yet appeared. Young, not yet woody shoots should be cut off. The lower cut should be straight, a traditional oblique will cut the knot to which the leaves are attached. The upper cut must be placed above the leaf cushion, the lower one - directly below it.

In your distant school years, you were certainly told that plants have three ways of arranging leaves on a stem: alternate (ladder), opposite (paired leaves grow opposite each other) and whorled (leaves cover the stem in a ring). Beginning gardeners should definitely remember this, since the cuttings of plants with the next position are cut from below along the oblique, with whorled and opposite - only in a straight line.

To cut cuttings, you can use a regular blade

On the issue of cutting off the two pairs of leaves remaining on the stem, experts do not agree: you can remove them completely, cut them in half, or leave 2/3 of the leaf blade.

1. Put freshly cut cuttings in water at room temperature for 1-2 hours.

   The water level in the jar should not be high - it is enough to moisten the lower 2-3 cm

2. Treat the prepared stems with a growth stimulator and leave overnight in a dark, warm room. Optimum exposure time - 12 hours, temperature - 20o-25oC. As a stimulant, a solution of 150 mg of heteroauxin in 1 liter of water is usually used. Please note that without growth stimulation, the probability of rooting of the cutting is reduced by an order of magnitude.

   When buying a bag, be sure to calculate how much product is needed to process all your cuttings.

3. Prepare a mixture of sand and peat and plant the cuttings in open ground, twisting them to a depth of 1 cm. Top the soil mixture with washed river sand, and then cover tightly polyethylene film(as an option - a cut plastic bottle). Water the seedling twice a day until fully rooted.

   Cropped bottle - the easiest and cheapest mini-greenhouse

Experts say that if you stick to this method, good rooting is guaranteed.

Weigela reproduces equally well with both winter and summer cuttings. But summer seedlings bloom for the first time at the age of 2 years, and this is a huge advantage for impatient gardeners. Unfortunately, the first buds will have to be removed before opening, so that the bush forms a more lush and dense crown.

If you missed the time of summer cuttings, you can try to grow winter cuttings. They are pruned in April, separating the stem under the bud with unblown leaves. Further, the technology is similar, but rooting is carried out in pots with a mixture of sand and soddy soil. After the formation of roots, the plants are pinched and fed with cow manure (0.5 l of slurry per 1 m2) or mineral fertilizers (30 g of superphosphate + 25 g of ammonium nitrate).

Rooting of cuttings is not guaranteed, so prepare them with a margin

Keep in mind that despite additional efforts, winter cuttings not only grow worse, but also take root less readily. Therefore, if you need a guaranteed result, it is better to wait until the summer.

Nuances of cultivation in different regions

Due to the high adaptability of weigela, it grows well almost throughout the country. But there are several nuances that should be considered by a gardener from regions with a harsh climate.

Growing in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region

This region is best hybrid varieties of this shrub: Candida, Eva Rathke, Rosea, Lucifer. Of the wild plants in the temperate continental climate, early Weigela is appropriate, which is often found in the south of the Ussuri Territory and blooming (Purpurea and Alba varieties). But the latter tolerates cold worse and needs careful shelter. If you are not embarrassed by the need to protect plants from frost, Weigela garden and Weigela Middendorf will also grow well in a garden near Moscow. Here they will not only grow well, but will also be able to successfully propagate by cuttings and seeds according to the standard scheme.

A cottage near Moscow, decorated with weigels, resembles cozy house in Provence

Weigela planting in the Moscow region is carried out according to the technology already described above. The only difference is that spring planting is recommended. The first flowering will have to wait 4 years.

In cold climates, autumn planting weigela often dies already in the first winter, despite careful wrapping.

If you want to get a profusely flowering compact shrub, two top dressings per year are enough. During the swelling of leaf buds (but before the first leaves bloom), nitroammophoska is applied, 40 g per bucket of water under each bush. At the end of spring, before blooming flower buds, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added in the amount of 30 g per 10 liters of water for each bush.

Before the first frosts, the bushes should be covered with agrofibre, dry leaves or spruce branches (just like roses). If the winter is forecast to be severe, it is better to play it safe and use roofing material or spandbod for shelter.

Video: the best variety of weigela for the middle lane

Growing in Siberia and the Urals

The only obstacle to the normal growth of weigela in this region is severe winter frosts. Therefore, only the most resistant varieties of weigela should be planted here: Alba, Striatum, Victoria, Styriaka, Red Prince, Eva Rathke. Gardeners claim that they are able to survive the winter with a short-term drop in temperature to -43 ° C. Of course, even these varieties will not winter without shelter, but they can be grown outdoors without wasting time on winter care for tubs.

Despite the apparent fragility and tenderness, this Styriak weigela is able to withstand an extremely harsh winter.

Planting seedlings here is also preferable in spring, since autumn ones do not have time to get stronger enough before frost. Otherwise, care for the weigela in Siberia is almost the same as the same actions in other regions.

Even if the flowering is not too abundant, the weigela looks very decorative.

What gardeners say: feedback from practitioners

As you can see, weigela is not as capricious as they say about her. Most gardeners are happy with their shrubs, even if they don't follow their care plan 100%. Therefore, be sure to try to plant it at home, because you can get no less pleasure from leaving than from contemplating its bright buds.

Weigela. This showy shrub, which is part of the Honeysuckle family, unfortunately, is rarely found in gardens and summer cottages. In total, about 15 species of weigela are known; in natural conditions, in all their diversity, they can be found in East Asia. In Russia, in the south of the Far East, only 3 species grow (in. Middendorf, in. early, in. pleasant).

Weigela has been cultivated since the middle of the nineteenth century, when different kinds This plant was introduced to Europe. Despite the fact that Japan and China are the birthplace of this culture, it grows well in the south and in central Russia. The modern range of weigela has one and a half hundred varieties and hybrids.

Description

Weigela is an ornamental flowering shrub, some of its species, under favorable conditions, bloom twice a season. The timing of flowering for different species and varieties is slightly different, but in the general case, its beginning is the end of May - the beginning of June (therefore, the weigel is called the “herald of heat”), and the duration is 3-4 weeks. The second flowering is possible in late summer - early autumn. This time it will be less lush and longer.

Weigela has beautiful flowers up to 5 cm long, in shape they resemble a small funnel or bell. The palette of colors is unusually diverse and includes numerous shades of red, pink, cream and white flowers. Flowers are either collected in inflorescences, or arranged singly.

Types and varieties of weigela

Of particular interest to plant lovers are several species and varieties of weigela, which can be successfully grown both in the south and in the middle zone of our country. Here they are.

Weigela middendorffiana

Under natural conditions, it grows in Sakhalin and the Far East, as well as in the northeastern part of China. It is a shrub that sheds its leaves every year. It grows in height from one to one and a half meters. Oval-elongated leaves have a pointed end. Yellowish or grayish-yellow tubular flowers with bright orange dots, reach a length of 3-4 cm. Blooms twice a season. Once in the spring (beginning of May), and the second time in August-September. Quite small seeds with wings ripen in an elongated box.

Weigela pleasant (Weigela suavis)

Weigela pleasant is extremely rare to be found among amateur gardeners, although its spectacular and openwork bush is very decorative. This culture is a shrub reaching a height of 1.3 meters. Oval-lanceolate leaves of a bright green hue change their color in mid-September. The shrub sheds its leaves in October. Pinkish-lilac flowers with a pale pink inner surface, resembling a funnel in shape, especially attract attention. Usually flowering occurs from May 10 to the end of June. The second time this species may bloom in late August - early September.

Weigela early (Weigela praecox)

This is a tall (up to 2 m in height) shrub with a dense crown. Flowering occurs in May and lasts 2-3 weeks. The flowers are pink pubescent, collected in several pieces on drooping peduncles.

Weigela hybrid is called the union of several hybrids, which were obtained as a result of crossing weigela profusely flowering, Korean and flowering. When designing landscape compositions, various varieties of these hybrids are most often used.

Eva Rathke

Among the old varieties that are still in demand, it is worth highlighting the Eva Ratke variety. This hybrid was obtained in Poland and can be bought today on the website of the Union of Polish Nurseries. Bushes, about one meter high and 2 to 3 meters wide, have a compact crown shape.

A large number of green leaves with a sharp end, 6 to 10 cm long, cover the branches along the entire length. Brilliant flowers of a reddish-pink hue with a lighter inner surface are shaped like tubules. Flowering occurs from June to August.

Rosea

Hybrid "Rosea" attracts attention with pink big flowers with white dots. The crown of a bush one and a half meters high is formed by smoothly curving branches. It has good winter hardiness, for the winter this hybrid needs only a little shelter.

Bristol Ruby

Also a fairly well-known hybrid is "Bristol Ruby", which is characterized by rapid growth. It is liked for rather large bushes with a height of 2.5 to 3 meters and a width of up to 3.5 meters. Particularly attractive are the flowers, which have reddish-ruby edges and a reddish-orange color. inner surface. Flowering lasts from June to July.

Styriaca (Styriaca)

The variety "Stiriaka" was obtained by breeding profusely flowering weigela and Korean weigela. Beautiful pinkish flowers, reminiscent of strawberries in color, reach a length of 2.5-3 cm. During abundant flowering, which occurs in May - June, the bushes are covered with "pinkish" foam. By the end of flowering, the color of the flowers changes from pink to reddish brown.

Planting weigela, choosing a place and soil

Although weigela is enough unpretentious culture, some of its biological features must be taken into account when choosing a site on which it will constantly grow.

Landing dates

Weigela is planted in spring (March-April) and autumn (before frost), and in the southern and subtropical regions throughout the year, excluding a short frosty period.

Landing place

The place is best chosen in well-lit areas, protected from powerful winds and air currents, especially northern ones. You can also plant a weigela under the openwork crowns of trees, but it must be borne in mind that this culture shows all its beauty only with maximum light.

It is undesirable to place the plant in the lowlands, where the weigela will most likely freeze.

Soil and planting holes

The land at the landing site should be nutritious, light, permeable and, at the same time, able to retain moisture. natural views weigels prefer to grow on soils with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). A variety of varieties develop better on lands with a neutral reaction (pH 6.5-7.0).

Planting pits are dug 50x50x50 cm in size, the distance between bushes is maintained from 2 to 3 meters. For undersized varieties- 1-1.5 m.

If the land at the landing site is not suitable for any properties, it is replaced with a mixture consisting of soddy soil and leaf humus. In this case, the width and length of the pit is increased to one meter, and the depth is left the same - half a meter. The bottom must be loosened by a few centimeters. It is imperative to improve the moisture capacity of the soil in places where there is a strong lack of moisture in the soil, for example, by adding high-moor peat.

Landing technology

For planting this shrub, three-year-old seedlings are usually used.

During planting, the roots are carefully distributed throughout the volume of the pit and fall asleep, leaving no voids.

At the end, the soil must be watered with plenty of water.

Add more earth after the soil subsidence.

Mulch the area around the bush with peat chips or wood chips.

The shoots of the seedling are cut in half. If a flowering specimen is used for planting, the shoots do not need to be cut.

How to save a weigela seedling until spring

If you purchased a seedling in the fall too late and it is no longer possible to plant it, you can save the planting material until spring in one of two ways.

The first is to dig a seedling in the garden at an angle, also cover the branches with earth. In the spring, dig out after the snow melts and land on time.

The second way is to keep it indoors by planting it in a pot. With moderate watering, you need to wait until the leaves on the weigel fall off. Further, you need to keep the plant in cool conditions, at a temperature of 1-6 degrees, even short-term small negative temperatures are allowed. You need to water very sparingly, avoiding the complete drying of the earth.

At the end of winter, when the buds swell and growth begins, the bush must be moved to a bright place. Increase watering, but moderately, in April you can start fertilizing and, if necessary, form a crown.

In May, when the return frosts pass, weigela can be planted in a place prepared in the garden. The first two weeks after planting, protect from bright sun.

Reproduction methods

This culture reproduces well both with the help of seeds, and cuttings. Moreover, various types of weigela can be propagated by seed, and new plants from varietal bushes are obtained only with the help of cuttings.

cuttings

Shoots for cuttings are harvested twice a season.

For the first time this is done in March, when the buds have not yet opened.

From lignified vegetative shoots (not flowering), cuttings are cut from 8 to 10 cm long.

To accelerate rooting, stimulants are used to form roots (the cutting is kept in a solution of the drug for 4-5 hours).

The harvested parts of the shoots are almost completely buried in a mixture consisting of coarse sand and crushed high-moor peat. Each component is taken in one part.

Cuttings are planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other in partial shade.

As soon as the shoots begin to grow on the cuttings, it means that they have taken root. Now it's time to plant them in several pieces in containers filled with a mixture of peat, river sand, clay and garden soil.

Caring for such young seedlings consists in regular watering, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers with the addition of trace elements, and pinching the shoots when they reach a height of 5 cm.

With good care, the bushes grow to 20-25 cm by the beginning of autumn. The next spring, before the weigela starts to grow, the plants are cut and transplanted into 3-liter pots. Then the same care is carried out as in the previous season, only pinching is excluded.

By autumn, young plants will already have from 3 to 6 mature shoots 70-80 cm high. Such seedlings are already ready for planting in a permanent place.

Second cutting period occurs at the end of May - beginning of June.

Choose young shoots of the current year, which are half lignified.

Cuttings 8 to 10 cm long, cut from the bottom of the growth.

The leaves on them are removed all except the top two, which are cut halfway.

Further rooting technology is the same as for cuttings harvested in March.

The cuttings planted at the beginning of summer reach 10-15 cm by autumn. To get bushes ready for planting, they need to be grown within two years.

Plants grown from cuttings bloom for 2-3 years.

Weigela from seeds

Weigela seed propagation is simple, but it requires a longer waiting time for flowering plants than cuttings. In addition, this method is not suitable for hybrid weigela propagation, since new plants will not retain the characteristics of the mother. It is used if you need to get a large number of species plants.

Fresh weigela seeds have almost one hundred percent germination, which lasts throughout the year. They can be sown before winter or spring.

• The plot for sowing is allocated in the shade of trees.
• Seeds are scattered over the surface of the earth.
• Top cover with a layer of peat or sand 0.5-1 cm.
• Lightly compacted.
• Moisturize well with a spray bottle.
• During winter sowing, they are covered with leaves, straw or covering material and wait for seedlings in the spring.
• During spring sowing, the bed is covered with a film, periodically it is removed for watering (from a spray bottle) and airing. Seedlings should appear in about 3 weeks.
• Some time after the seeds have sprouted, the seedlings are thinned out, cared for, and a year later they are transplanted into a school. For winter, planting requires light shelter.
• After 3-4 years, plants can be moved to a permanent place. Weigela, grown by seed, will begin to bloom for 4-6 years.

Seeds can be sown and grown before planting in a permanent place and at home. At the same time, for the summer, pots with plants should be placed on outdoors, covering from the sun.

Weigela care

Care for adult weigels consists of top dressing, pruning, watering and loosening.

top dressing

This shrub is fed 3 times per season.

The very first top dressing is carried out even in the snow, before the start of the growing season. Mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bush within the radius of the trunk circle. Superphosphate and urea are best suited for this.

The second time weigels are fed during the formation of buds. For this, potash fertilizers without chlorine or complex fertilizers are used. mineral fertilizers with approximately equal amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

The last time under the bushes make top dressing at the end of summer. The composition of fertilizers used during this period should be dominated by potassium. This will help the shoots mature and prepare the plants for winter.

Watering

In nature, weigela grows in the monsoon regions of East Asia, where the soil contains a lot of moisture. The land should not be allowed to dry out too much, this leads to a sharp deterioration in flowering and prevents the good development of plants. The shrub is watered regularly and be sure to cover the ground around the bush with a thick layer of mulching material (sawdust, husk, peat).

loosening

Loosening is carried out as the compaction of the soil around the shrub during the season. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the roots of the weigela in the near-trunk circle lie at a depth of 8-10 cm, and it is undesirable and even dangerous to disturb them. Therefore, loosening should not be deeper than 8 cm.

pruning

Pruning of this culture is carried out in early spring and in July. In April, dry, frozen, broken and deformed branches are cut out, and in July - withered and old branches. In addition, in June, excess root shoots are removed.

If after winter it turns out that one of the main shoots has died out, it is cut off, leaving 10 cm above the ground. A living bud at the root will give a new shoot.

Preparing for winter

When growing weigels in our country, with the exception of the southern and subtropical regions, they need shelter for the winter.

The shrub is wrapped with spunbond, and the trunk circle is covered with leaf litter or spruce branches. In the middle lane, shelter is removed in early April.

Weigela in landscape design

A variety of varieties, hybrids and species of this crop in ornamental gardening and landscaping are usually used as single plants (tapeworms) in the foreground or middle ground of landscape compositions. Weigela is also great for mixed and pure groups of shrubs.

Usually, barberries, Japanese spireas, mock orange, rosewood, cotoneasters, Japanese quince, forsythia, felt cherries and colquitsia are planted next to it. A group of weigels of different varieties and hybrids on the lawn looks especially beautiful.

Tall varieties and hybrids (Gustav Mallet, Bristol Ruby, Marc Tellier) look good in compositions with ornamental and evergreen trees. But weigels of small height (“Variegata Nana” and “Purpurea”) will decorate mixed flower beds, borders, flower beds and rocky gardens.

You can also create from tall weigels hedge free form, which does not need to be cut.