Construction stores offer us a huge range of different drilling machines in all price categories.
However, the cost of a really high-quality model is very expensive, and purchasing a cheap one drilling machine from consumer Chinese manufacturers, whose work resource is ridiculous, there is no point.
It's much easier to buy a good one electric drill, and independently make a hand-made desktop homemade drilling machine based on it, which will fully meet all your requirements.
The cost of a high-quality drill is much less than that of full-fledged drilling machines.
In addition, you can use an electric drill that is already on the farm, since the design of the machine allows for its quick dismantling, which allows you to use one drill both in stationary and manual mode.
1 Required tools and materials
A tabletop drilling machine from a drill can be made based on metal pipes, or based on wooden parts. We recommend that you give preference to the second option, since it is much less labor-intensive and does not require the use of either an angle grinder or a welding machine.
Wood a homemade machine is durable, which is more than enough for normal household use.
You can make such a machine yourself, based on a drill, by following all the recommendations described below, with your own hands within two hours, and it will serve you for many years.
In order to make a tabletop drilling machine with your own hands, you will need following materials:
- wooden boards 2-2.5 centimeters thick;
- guide metal slats - 2 pieces (such slats are used for feeding drawers in tables and chests of drawers, they can be purchased at any furniture supermarket);
- wooden beam dimensions 20*30 mm - about two meters;
- wood screws 20 and 30 millimeters long;
- wood glue;
- electric drill;
- metal rod with M8 thread;
- metal tube with M6 class thread;
- screws and nuts.
The actual work is carried out using the following tools:
- screwdriver (Phillips or regular, depending on what screws you will use);
- drill;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw and hacksaw;
- corner;
- pencil, ruler;
- level
- roulette
- carpentry clamps for fixing boards.
1.1 Creating a base for the frame
To create a basic base for a homemade drilling machine, use a hacksaw to cut a 20*30 wooden beam into four pieces, two of which are 17 centimeters long, and two more are 20 centimeters long.
If you want to create a homemade machine based on a massive electric drill, then it would be better to make a larger base, since increasing its size will give the structure greater stability.
Next, prepare a board with dimensions of 200*220*20 millimeters (dimensions are based on the above dimensions of the timber). Using self-tapping screws, connect the beam sections into one frame. To connect at each end of the beam, you need to use two self-tapping screws; if you are using a thicker beam, you can screw in a self-tapping screw at each end corner.
Place a board on top of the resulting frame. Screw it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the beam; 2-3 bolts on one side will be more than enough.
To make your work easier, it is recommended Drill preliminary holes in the boards, into which it is much easier to screw self-tapping screws than into a solid board. To avoid protrusions of screw heads above wooden surface possible with a drill larger diameter chamfer under their heads.
1.2 Creating a column for guides
The width of the board for the column must correspond to the width of the created base, the thickness is 20 mm, and the height is determined depending on the size of the drill used, as a rule, a height of 40-50 centimeters will be more than enough. An excessively high column can negatively affect the stability of the entire structure.
Once you have cut the board to the appropriate size, immediately attach it to the base using self-tapping screws. Next, you need to arrange the free space between the column itself and the electric drill; to do this, attach two pieces of timber, measuring 25*35*17 millimeters, parallel to each other, in the center of the upper part of the column.
To avoid making a mistake with the installation location, make preliminary markings. Draw a straight line from the center point of the top of the column down, then step back 50 mm on each side and draw two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines should be 100 mm.
Pay close attention to so that the lines are strictly parallel to each other, so even the slightest angle of inclination of the trajectory along which the guides move is fraught with the fact that the drill will not enter the work surface at a right angle, which is why when drilling hard metal surfaces thin drills will break very quickly.
1.3 Installation of guides
Installing guides is perhaps the most difficult part of creating a drilling machine with your own hands. It is extremely important that the guides run exactly perpendicular to the base of the machine and parallel to each other.
Prepare two boards measuring 100*250*20 mm, and mark on them the places where the retractable slats will be attached. Sold in furniture stores the retractable slats are already equipped with holes for self-tapping screws, so All you have to do is screw them to the guides with your own hands. After the slats are attached, we mount the guides on the column.
1.4 Creating mounts for a drill
We suggest you make a universal mount with your own hands, which is suitable for installing not only a mini-drill, but also a full-fledged electric drill. To do this, prepare a board with dimensions 60*100*20 for the upper holder, and 100*100*20 for the lower one.
Use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the center of the bottom board, the diameter of which is suitable for securely fixing your drill. Secure it to the guide using a furniture corner and self-tapping screws.
We also cut out the top holder using jigsaws. Its size and shape are individual and depend on what shape of drill you will use. We make holes around the perimeter of both clamps and screw in screws that will clamp and firmly fix the drill in the holder.
2 Making a height limiter
A height limiter is necessary so that a homemade drilling machine can make multiple holes of identical depth. Perfect for creating a limiter metal rod with M8 thread.
Drill a hole in the base in which the rod will be installed (it should be tightly fixed in the base, but at the same time rotate freely).
Next, we cut out a small piece of timber, drill a hole in it and install a threaded sleeve on one side, and a piece of rod that will limit the amplitude of movement of the guides on the other. We screw the beam onto the main rod.
For manual tabletop drilling the machine was more convenient to use, You need to make a handle on the restrictive rod.
It could be ordinary homemade stop made of plywood, which is fixedly fixed between two nuts.
2.1 Making a homemade drilling machine (video)
In order to save time, you can buy a ready-made inexpensive stand and vice for a drill in the OBI.RU store, which allows you to fix the drill in a vertical position and use it as a drilling machine, thereby increasing the accuracy and speed of work.
Characteristics:
- height: 400 mm;
- clamping hole diameter: 43 mm;
- drilling depth: 60 mm;
- The set includes a vice for fixing workpieces.
Those who have ever used an electric drill have encountered difficulties when it is necessary to make a bunch of holes. It's a disaster if there are holes in the board, but making holes in the metal? For this purpose, the industry came up with a drilling machine. Those who have it are very lucky, and those who don’t have it - prepare your pockets.
Personally, my pocket is small, so I can’t afford a factory drilling machine. Well, Chinese, made of tin, I can certainly afford it, but it’s bullshit. Soviet, semi-complete ones are unreasonably expensive. In principle, I didn’t consider magazine racks for drills, they were too childish. Wandering around the Internet I found a lot of homemade products, but the availability of turning work stopped me. You can order a couple of parts from a turner, but no one wants to share normal drawings, and when you design a part yourself, a mess will always come out. If a jamb comes out, run back to the turner and ask him to fix it. But one day I came across interesting video from Zhelezjaka about homemade stand for drill. Simple design, repeatable and versatile. While watching the video from Zhelezjaka There were no analogues of this design yet.
I was going to make this stand for a whole year, maybe more. After going on vacation, I finally started work. I made some adjustments to the design; they do not fundamentally change the machine, but they unify the materials and reduce the manufacturing time of some elements. I tried to use minimal amount purchased material, I tried to use the garbage that I had. But we still couldn’t do without shopping. From the main one, I bought an additional pipe for the guide, a corner and a strip, 1 meter for each position.
Now let's look at the manufacturing process. Actually, my carriage guide is also made of square pipe 40x40x3 mm. I bought the iron in a small hardware store; the rolled metal there is stored practically in the open air and is not particularly high in quality. But there is one advantage to this: you can touch everything there and choose better. And so it happened. From the beginning I wanted to take a pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm, but flat piece The seller and I were unable to choose. I took a wall thickness of 3 mm; thick-walled pipes are much smoother. Steel is steel and traces of corrosion are an integral part of it. Therefore, I had to clean almost the entire rental, especially the guide. I did not bring him to a state of cat pride.
I forgot to say that in advance I prepared a set of preliminary drawings, according to which I made the basic elements. A set of final drawings will be posted at the end of the article. Blank to size mode. Here is the first deviation from the author's project, I took a corner for the carriage and bracket 45x45x4 mm. A 40x40 pipe fits perfectly into it, there is no need to cut anything and an excellent installation gap is formed (seen in the photo below). I tried to repeat the author's manufacturing technology.
I put some sandpaper on it, clamped it on the guide with clamps, and welded everything together from the heart. And then remove the figurines, clamping it so that “mother, don’t worry”! I was able to remove the rack bracket only by knocking it against the rest of the 45th corner. Next, I cut the entire corner, welded the carriage, put twice as much sandpaper and that’s it…. I can no longer remember how many swear words were wasted, cigarettes were smoked and everything that moved nearby was cursed, and it was impossible to separate one from the other. How the author makes everything so simple, I don’t know. And the technology, in my opinion, should be as follows: put double-folded sandpaper -> compress it with clamps -> weld the edges on all four corners -> completely boil one of the edges -> let it cool completely -> try to remove it from the mandrel. If it comes off the frame, then weld the second edge. If it doesn’t work, then cut off the tacks on the uncooked edge and lightly remove the guide. In the photo below there are already welded blanks; the smallest one will not be used.
I made Stanina out of what I had. And I had almost a meter of channel 8. I adjusted the length of the bed to the length of the rest of the square pipe that remained after making the guide. Below is a picture of the installation process of the rack bracket. To be honest, this bed design is not very good. The shelves of the channel are all crooked, one piece is concave, the other is convex. Horror, not rental. He pretended to set it at a right angle, although it was unclear to what plane. I will deal with perpendicularity later.
and back. The rear panel has two threaded holes. These holes will serve to secure the machine in a horizontal position when processing wood.
And fasteners to secure the stand in a vertical position. A single bolt is welded to provide grounding. The holes for the wires are not visible here, but they are in the drawings.
About the adjustable feet. By some chance, there were no standard legs from a refrigerator or washing machine, I’m just amazed. I had to make it from a bolt and an enlarged washer, the price was a couple of kopecks. But I had those things into which the legs are screwed, but tall nuts would fit perfectly in their place.
The drum is the one that will spin the cable. I took a creative approach to making this part. It works exactly the same, but is designed differently. Steel bars larger than 10mm in diameter are difficult to find in a home shed, and my shed is no exception. Plus, I immediately resolved the issue of the removable handle. As an axis I used an M10 bolt with a short GOST thread. Cutting off the excess from it I got a smooth axle. The bolt head will serve as a kind of element for engaging the axle with the handle. The outer part of the drum will serve as water pipe. If you do not have such a pipe in your metal waste, then you can replace it with a pipe purchased at the nearest plumbing store. To center the axle, we had to make bushings, so to speak, manually, without a lathe. To do this, I clamped two M10 nuts on the remaining bolt scrap (don’t throw away the scrap, it will come in handy later), inserted it into a drill and sharpened the entire structure using an electric sharpener. Since there are no threads on the bolt trim, the threads in the bushings also need to be drilled. The bolt head has a hole with an M5 thread for attaching the handle. It turned out pretty good.
In the picture below, I have already welded the bushings to the axle, the main thing is not to forget to put on one of the eyes first. There are holes in the outer race of the drum through which the race will be welded to the bushings. All dimensions and clearances are indicated in the drawings.
Here's the result:
Carriage. There’s not much to tell here, we’ll assemble everything according to the drawings. Just one addition. In the original, the carriage is locked with one of the adjusting bolts. After all, they are adjustable, so as not to touch them, so after welding all the parts, I made an additional threaded hole specifically for the locking bolt. I made the threads for the adjusting bolts only with a rough tap, in order to prevent spontaneous unwinding.
View from the other side. Sorry about my welds, I cook as I can.
The handle is also a lever. After looking at the photo, don’t throw tomatoes. In my design, the lever is made from a 17-size open-end wrench. It had a broken cap, so I gave the short spanner a second life.
On the one hand, I welded a homemade washer from a strip onto the cap part of the key.
Next is an element that is not in original design- this is an emphasis. This stop is attached to the top of the guide post and is used when securing the machine in a horizontal position. The holes for mounting to the stand are not made coaxially to minimize rotation of the stop.
Another new detail. I called it "table". Since there is no plane on my bed, I had to twist around. It's made from a piece laminated chipboard, Not the best option, but that's it for now. With the help of screws I have the opportunity to set the working plane perpendicular to the stand.
This is what it looks like. The photo also shows an auxiliary carriage on which a ruler and a tool for woodworking will be placed.
And here you can see the table adjustment element.
It's time to make a bracket for attaching the drill. And again the materials that I had were used. Clamp made of strip 25x4 mm, pipe extension 30x30x2. This strip fits perfectly inside the pipe, making it easier to attach one to the other. And this rotation of the clamp ensures perfect alignment. The clamp is made by tapping a strip around a pipe with a diameter of 40 - 42 mm.
A little closer.
And brew it carefully. I was worried about the quality of these seams, since this is the weakest place in the entire structure.
Let's put the welder aside for a while and get to the drill. As I already said, I had been planning to make the machine for a whole year. During this time I acquired a drill, which I don’t mind. It was given to me as a non-working one. The wire was simply crushed inside and over time it burned out in this place. I corrected the wire, but the drill, apparently, is very tired and full of backlash. The first thing to replace was the cartridge and rolling bearings. The shank bushing was also broken.
To be honest, I would rip the hands off these designers who are in a simple drill added ratchet function. There is no sense, the bearings are broken and the axial movement of the cartridge adds to all the delights. The most interesting thing, at least in this drill, is that the ratchet unit is the same size as the outer race of bearing No. 608. My attempts to knock the ratchet out of the silumin cage were unsuccessful; I had to cut off the teeth with a hacksaw and go to the market to look for a bronze bushing. And at the market they charged an absurd price for this sleeve, which I was very offended by and basically left with nothing. In place of the bronze gold bushing, the inner race from the same 608 bearing fits perfectly in size. One bad thing is that this is a one-time replacement; next time you will have to change the bushing along with the cartridge shaft. Let's see how long he lives. To eliminate the axial movement of the shaft, instead of a repelling spring, I installed a bushing made from a plumbing fitting, and placed a machined washer on the other side. The bearings have been replaced, the backlash has been eliminated, and the mechanisms have been lubricated.
Attention, the faint of heart, please do not look at the next picture! Since this drill was specially reserved for the machine, I tried to make it so that it could only work in this machine. I cut the handle. From the barbarian... The start button was removed, the reverse lever remained in its original place, the cut was covered with a neat lid.
And what did I get in the end? I placed the button in the cavity of the frame, made a threaded hole in the front panel and tightened the adjusting screw there. Thus, I received a remote speed control unit. You tighten the screw, it gradually presses a button that changes the speed of the drill. Separately mounted a toggle switch for turning on the machine.
Below is the process of assembling the spindle bracket. I attached a guide from the printer to the chuck, which made it possible to relatively accurately align the axis of the tool perpendicular to the table.
Here is the welded bracket. I immediately made a hole in the table and bed. I cut a thread in the bed to screw in the center to hold the wooden workpiece during turning work. Then he began to prepare parts for the manufacture of a handicraft (Podruchnik is a stand for cutting tool on a lathe).
And here he is ready. It has simplified functionality; there is no height adjustment. I have never worked as a woodturner in my life, or metal lathe either, I will learn and try.
And in principle, the machine is ready; almost the maximum load was chosen for the test. The first serious hole was made with a 13 mm drill in the front panel of the machine to install the toggle switch; let me remind you, the panel is made of a 4 mm thick strip. The result exceeded all expectations, without preliminary drilling and a minimum of effort, without even straining, I drilled a hole in a matter of seconds. I was glad, the state of euphoria passed and noble traces of young rust began to catch my eye. I was in a hurry to assemble everything and didn’t bother to paint it in detail. Now we have to take everything apart.
As always, I waited until it got colder to start painting. Therefore, I had to paint in the barn, it’s not a pleasant pleasure, paint on the street. I chose green color, this association has been around since childhood - if it’s a machine, then it’s green.
Painting the bed. I was too lazy to take out the wire, a collective farm is a collective farm.
The paint has dried and here is the result of the work:
On the other side:
And in the lathe position:
Here are the promised drawings. I ask all norm inspectors and very smart people not to comment on the drawings, or even look at them :)) joke. Enjoy it for your health! I even made a specification according to which you can estimate the volume necessary materials. But I must warn you, do not blindly believe the drawings, double-check, I am not a robot and can sometimes make mistakes.
The result is a great tool. I cannot yet fully evaluate the turning option, since I only have a chisel instead of cutters. But as a drill there are a couple of “buts”:
- Try to make a bed like the author's Zhelezjaka, the design will be simpler, lighter and smoother.
- One shoulder handle is terribly uncomfortable, it’s hard to explain why it’s inconvenient, but it’s uncomfortable. I will remake it into a three-armed one. In my version it’s simple, I unscrewed one and screwed the other. If you do it according to the original version, then pay attention to this.
- The handle is placed, as it were, behind the machine, which increases the required free space. In the future I will move it closer to the spindle using a chain drive.
- The front center (the toothed thing that rotates the wood piece) does a very poor job of holding the piece. The design needs to be changed.
And do not forget to use personal protective equipment when working. Do not violate safety requirements, no matter how stupid and ridiculous they may seem.
The most common drilling machine can be considered the one made from an ordinary or electric drill. In such a machine, the drill can be placed either permanently or made removable. In the first case, the power button can be moved to the drilling machine for greater convenience; in the second, the drill can be removed and used as a separate tool.
Components for a homemade drilling machine:
- Drill;
- Base;
- Rack;
- Drill mount;
- Feeding mechanism.
The base (bed) for a homemade drilling machine can be made of hard wood, chipboard or furniture board, but it’s better to use a channel, metal plate or brand. To ensure the stability of the structure and obtain a good result, the frame must be made massive so that it can compensate for vibration from drilling. The size for wooden satin is 600x600x30 mm, metal - 500x500x15 mm. There must be mounting holes on the base of the machine so that it can be mounted on a workbench.
The stand for the drilling machine can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. You can also use an old frame of a photographic enlarger, an old school microscope or another device of a similar configuration that has a large mass and high strength.
The drill is secured using clamps or brackets. It is better to use a bracket with a central hole, this will allow you to achieve more good results when drilling.
The device of the drill feed mechanism on the machine.
Using this mechanism the drill can move vertically along the stand, it can be:
- Spring;
- Articulated;
- Similar to a screw jack.
Depending on the chosen mechanism, you will need to make a stand.
Photo diagrams and drawings show the main types of designs of homemade drilling machines on which a drill is used.
A homemade machine made from a drill with a hinged, springless mechanism. 
Video instructions for creating a homemade drilling machine with your own hands.
Video instructions for creating a cheap drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. The bed and stand are made of wood, the mechanism is a furniture guide.
Step-by-step video instructions for making a drill press from an old car jack.
How to make a spring-lever stand for a drill on a homemade machine.
Step-by-step instructions for making a steel stand.
The steering rack from a car is a fairly massive device, so the frame for it must be massive and attached to the workbench. All connections on such a machine are made by welding.
The thickness of the base should be about 5 mm; it can be welded from channels. The drain on which the steering rack is attached should be 7–8 cm higher. It is attached through the eyes of the steering column.
Since such a homemade machine becomes massive, it is better to place the control unit separately from the drill.
Drilling video homemade machine based on a steering rack from a car.
The procedure for assembling such a homemade machine:
- Preparation of parts;
- Installing the stand on the frame;
- Assembling the moving device;
- Installing the device on a rack;
- Drill installation.
All joints must be securely fastened, preferably by welding. If guides are used, then you need to make sure that there is no transverse play. For greater convenience, such a machine can be equipped with a vice for fixing the workpiece for drilling.
In stores you can also find racks ready for drilling. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the dimensions of its frame and weight. Often, inexpensive designs are only suitable for drilling thin plywood.
Homemade drilling machine based on an asynchronous motor.
You can replace a drill in a homemade machine with an asynchronous motor, for example from an old one washing machine. The manufacturing process for such a machine is complex, so it is better if it is done by a specialist with experience in turning and milling, and assembling electrical circuits.
Diagram and design of a machine based on a motor from household appliances.
Below are all the drawings, parts and their characteristics, and specifications.
A table of all the parts and materials needed to make the machine yourself.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300×175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main stand | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and has an M12 thread cut into it |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100–120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | Lead screw | Tr16x2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Tr16x2 | |
| 9 | Drive console | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | |
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | Washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of drive pulleys for V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one stream to another |
| 15 | Electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Driven pulley block | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | |
| 18 | Return spring limit rod | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | |
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, from wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Split clamp | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | |
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Spindle head console | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | The drive V-belt has a “zero” profile, so the grooves of the pulley block also have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool chuck no. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head has its own base - a duralumin console and creates translational and rotational motion.
Drawing of a spindle head for a homemade drilling machine. Materials and parts necessary for the manufacture of the spindle head.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Spindle | Steel circle Ø 12 mm |
| 2 | Running sleeve | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers-spacers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Bushing stopper | Special M6 screw with knurled button |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Stationary bushing | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm |
| 10 | Bearing | Radial thrust |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | End adapter sleeve | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
The connection depends on the motor itself.
How to make a drilling machine for printed circuit boards with your own hands.
To manufacture a drilling machine for printing circuit boards, a low-power device drive is required. As a lever, you can use a mechanism from a photo cutter or a soldering iron. Illumination of the drilling site can be done using an LED flashlight. In general, this machine is rich in the flight of creative thoughts.
Drilling is one of the most common technological operations in carpentry, so every master knows how important it is to make the hole quickly, and most importantly, as smooth and clean as possible. When you have a drilling machine at hand, drilling a hole evenly and quickly is not a problem. And vice versa - when it is not there, the quality of drilling long holes can be difficult. In this article we will offer one of the options for a drilling machine from a regular household electric drill or.
Introduction
Drilling a thin workpiece is not a problem - even if the drill is not perpendicular to the drilling plane, it will not be easy to visually notice that the hole is not level, so, as a rule, the master will be satisfied with the result. In such cases, you can drill “by eye”. When the depth of the hole is large, then even with a slight deviation from the perpendicular, the “curvature” of the hole will be noticeable. For such cases, it is necessary to use special devices, or better yet, a drilling machine. Therefore, this time we will try to make a homemade machine from a drill or screwdriver.
Original idea
This design is very versatile, since its basic part (base and spindle box) is the working part of several other devices described in the following articles:
These articles contain photos and videos of do-it-yourself machines.
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Thus, part of the structure of the described machine can be used for the manufacture and subsequent assembly of three more additional devices. If necessary, having all the components, you can assemble the necessary ones at your discretion this moment devices.
Preparing for work
Before starting work, you need to think through the sequence of all technological operations in the manufacture of a homemade machine, plan the manufacturing technology, decide on future materials and tools that will be needed during the work process.
Tool
To make a machine from a drill or you will need the following tool:
- or .
- Jigsaw.
- Angle grinder (angle grinder or simply “grinder”).
- Drill or .
- Grinding machine.
- Different hand tool: hammer, screwdriver, clamps, wood crown (or simply “crown”), square, marking pencil, etc.
Material and components
To make a machine with your own hands, you will need the following materials and components:
- 15 mm.
- Pine board, solid;
- Furniture drawer guides;
- Sleeve;
- Furniture footwear;
- Wing nut;
- Fastening: M6 bolt, self-tapping screws of various lengths.
Main structural elements
The design of the drilling machine consists of the following main elements:
- Base:
- Vertical frame;
- Spindle box;
- Platform (horizontal support);
- Drilling table;
- Drill mount (), used as an electric motor and spindle;
- Drill();
- Spring-loading mechanism and drill feed handle.
Making a drilling machine
To describe the entire process of making a homemade drilling machine, we will break it down into stages according to structural elements, attach a photo with comments, and place a video below.
Base
Vertical frame
It all starts from the foundation. To assemble a vertical frame, you need to take two types of bars, two of each standard size, made of pine or birch with a cross-section of 30 x 40 mm and a length of 60 mm.
We fasten them together in pairs, in pairs, where one face is flush and the other plane is offset. It is better to coat the joint plane with wood glue.
Spindle box base
To manufacture the spindle box (the moving part of the machine), sliding (rolling) elements are required. Furniture drawer guides will be used for this purpose.
It is necessary to cut 4 guides 120 mm long, and also make stoppers at the ends to prevent accidental exit from each other.
To make the base you need to use or make from three blanks with the following dimensions:
- 140 x 155 mm – 1 pc.
- 155 x 55 mm – 2 pcs.
Then you need to install furniture guides on them.
And assemble the spindle box itself into a “U-shaped” structure.
If the installation was carried out correctly and evenly - without distortions, then the spindle box should move along the frame freely, without clamps.
Platform (horizontal support)
To make a platform (horizontal support), we need to make two blanks:
- 260 x 240 mm
- 50 x 240 mm
Drilling table
To make a drilling table you will need 4 blanks.
| Size | Qty | Description |
| 260 x 240 mm | 1 PC | Tabletop |
| 260 x 60 mm | 1 PC | Vertical table plank |
| Rectangular triangleCuts: 60 x 60 | 2 pcs |
Since great forces are possible on the table, it must be made strong enough, so you will need additional elements strength - these are corner stops. There are two of them and they must be installed in place corner connection planks and countertops.
The drilling table is fixed to the frame using a bolt, which is tightened with a nut with reverse side. To install the bolt, you need to press the wing nut into the guides.
After this, you can install the drilling table on the frame, tightening it with a nut with a handle made of.
Drill mount
The manufacture of a drill mount begins by gluing two sheets together and making one blank measuring 165 x 85 mm. This is very important structural element and it will need additional strength, so you need to glue two layers together.
The drill will be fastened by clamping it in seat front handle and since it is different models differs, then you need to decide on the model and, accordingly, the diameter of the mounting hole for the tool that will be used in this machine. Drill a hole for the drill.
The first installation of the drill mount should not be too strong, you just need to “bait” the part, since in the future there will be an adjustment of the perpendicular and, most likely, adjustments to the installation position will be required. Installation is carried out using a pair of screws on the back of the spindle box.
After alignment, it is necessary to more thoroughly fix the attachment of the drill to the spindle box (an additional 4 screws), and also install an additional angle stop.
Spring-loading mechanism and drill feed handle
In the future, we will need to install the drill feed handle, so the axis of its rotation will be the pre-installed foot in the end of the upper spring mounting bracket.
Installing the handle on the machine is not difficult - one end of the handle must be secured with a screw to the upper spring mounting bracket, and the end of the metal rod must be secured with a screw to the drill mount.
Now all that remains is to drill a hole in drill table so that during drilling operations the tool passes through the workpiece, while the drilling will be complete and there will be no unnecessary chips left on the surface of the workpiece.
Conclusion
Bottom line
We made a drilling machine from a drill with our own hands, and attached photos of all the technological operations! If you follow all the instructions described above, you will get indispensable tool, which will rightfully take its rightful place in your workshop.
Overall dimensions of the machine
Here is a table with overall dimensions homemade drilling machine from:
Blank drawings
Here are drawings with the dimensions of all the parts of the homemade drilling machine described above.
Video
Video on which this material was made:
A drilling machine is a unique device that is necessary for a home workshop. It allows you not to seek help from specialized workshops, but simply take and carry out the grooving work yourself.
Thanks to this, a person saves a huge amount of money on the services of turning specialists.
You can make such a device from scrap materials. There is nothing complicated in the process.
To make a home drilling machine, you only need an electric drill or a steering rack.
Purchasing industrial units will cost a pretty penny, so it is advisable to make your own model using drawings with dimensions, which are abundant on the Internet.
Before you begin creating the unit itself, you should complete the planning. This is a responsible step that requires a careful approach and drawing up a drawing. You need to carefully measure and display on paper the dimensions of the future machine. If this is not done, something will definitely go wrong in the work.
It’s easy to make a mistake, and having a drawing will not allow you to make mistakes. People who neglect this stage in creating a drilling machine with their own hands overpay during the manufacturing process. What you need to take into account while working:
Drawings with dimensions.
- Length, width and height of equipment;
- Thickness of aggregates;
- Technical characteristics of electrical equipment;
- Data of the motor that will drive your machine;
- Power consumption;
- Grounding;
- Quantity of consumables.
The drawing will allow you not only to visually understand how to assemble the equipment, but also what it will exactly look like. The project will make it possible to more clearly determine the amount of production costs.
To assemble such equipment in your workshop, you do not need to have specialized items or electrical equipment. All you need is 4 main components. First of all, you should choose a bed for the filler machine. It will serve as a powerful foundation for a future grooving device.
After this, we decide on the rotation mechanism. It is better to choose an electric drill for it.
Tip: Take a drill that is not too old, but not too new. The main thing is that it is in working order, otherwise the equipment can quickly fail.
The third step will be to select a device for supplying revolutions
on the working part of the drill, and also decide on the stand, vertical type. The drill itself is lightweight, so you don’t need to look for heavy-duty materials for the stand. An ordinary board or chipboard will do.
Tip: Ideal as a drive asynchronous motor from an old washing machine.
The bed, on the contrary, is selected from those materials that will be stronger. It should hold everything on itself, and also absorb the rattling of the drill itself. To prevent vibrations from affecting the equipment and the accuracy of work, it is best to select strong metals. Very good, an old stand from a photo enlarger will work as a holder. True, to create a drilling machine with your own hands, you will need to modify it.
Important! The accuracy of the drilled hole will depend on the quality of the connection between the stand and the unit frame.
The home lathe maker will also need to use several strips of steel to cut two guide bars. They will help to move the block on which the drill is located. You can use screws to secure them. We take and screw everything to the rack.
Clamps will help increase the strength of the drill's fixation. It is best to use steel ones, they can withstand higher loads. To further dampen vibrations, it is best to place a rubber gasket between the machine block and the drill. It will help you eliminate the rattling processes of home equipment during operation.
For a better understanding, watch the video below.
Video machine from a drill
The basis of the movement of the machine is the lever. It allows you to easily move the block with an electric drill in a vertical position. A spring will be installed there, which will allow the drilling apparatus to be maintained at the required tension.
Selecting and installing a steering rack for a drilling machine
To your home equipment worked as conveniently as possible, it is best to use a modernized steering rack during its creation.
If you are going to buy it new from the manufacturer, prepare a tidy sum,
because it is not cheap at all. A more profitable solution is to choose a used part, preferably from a VAZ 2108.
Advice: As soon as you have purchased such a spare part, you should carefully inspect it, carry out preventive maintenance and repairs if necessary. This will give it a smoother ride when working with the drilling machine.
Now let's start making a frame for your future drilling equipment
- To make the body you will need to use a drill along with a column. All this should be installed on a table, which will serve as a platform for the future drilling machine. The table dimensions should be around 20x30 cm.
- A special structure that will hold your electric drill is installed on the steering part of the unit. Bolts are used to tighten it.
- To build the rack itself, you should first select a U-shaped steel profile with dimensions 30x60x30. Then you need to weld it to metal sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. In theory, the stand itself should be 6-7 cm taller than the length of the column itself.
- When creating equipment, it is best for the machine operator to use the VAZ 2108 steering rack, which was mentioned earlier, as the stroke of the rod.
- To further increase the rigidity of the entire structure, additional ribs should be installed during installation.
To ensure that the operator does not have problems starting or shutting down equipment during operation, you should consider practical system starting and stopping the drilling machine motor.
May not be very useful in everyday life big machine, and drilling equipment for working with micro printed circuit boards as in the photo.
To make it, the creator will need:
- Micromotor or engine operating at high speeds.
- Special collet for clamping small drills.
- Several wooden blocks.
- U-shaped metal profile.
- A retaining ring that will help secure the engine.
- A mobile platform for a machine, which is created with your own hands from all kinds of materials found in everyday life.
Important! So that the machine does not ultimately disappoint you and works clearly and accurately, you should Special attention pay attention to lowering the drill. It must be perpendicular to the board.
If the motor becomes distorted under some circumstances, the user runs the risk of damaging the drills. During the production of home drilling equipment, you need to carefully monitor the quality of the motor fixation. If it is not installed securely, it will simply tear out of the frame when the engine is running at high speeds. This is fraught with damage to your property and the risk of harm to health.
How to make a coordinate table
IN home machine For drilling, the role of the coordinate table will be performed by the feed mechanism. And at the same table, but for milling equipment slightly different design. Therefore, it should be considered more carefully.
This equipment is a special manipulator, which consists of the number of axes desired by the user. It is needed to move specialized technological heads of drilling equipment in several directions and planes at once.
Important! To make a milling table at home, you cannot do without using several linear-type modules. They must be made of aluminum profile.
To carry out motion transfer when creating milling table A special toothed rack should be used, as well as a reinforced belt. Instead, a ball-screw element will do just fine.
To establish control of the coordinate table, the creator will need to use CNC or controllers. Thanks to their installation, the user of the equipment has the opportunity to manage the technical tasks assigned to the machine.
Important! When creating a router table for your drill press, be sure to make a drawing before you begin. This will allow you to clearly understand the algorithm of actions and save yourself from unnecessary mistakes.
The calculation in this case is carried out taking into account technical characteristics the drilling unit itself. The design itself can be either lightweight or with increased strength. And also 2 or 3 coordinates can be used there. The first step before creating a machine is to understand its main role in your home workshop. And this can be used as a starting point in the design and further production process.
When everything is ready, you need to make a vice, otherwise you will not be able to fix the part at home; holding it in your hands is strictly prohibited. Purchasing old Soviet vices made of steel or cast iron can be expensive. Models made in China will not be to everyone’s taste due to their fragility. Therefore one of economical options will make them yourself.
You will need:
- A screw with a 2 cm thread and a length of 15 cm. There must be a slot in the head of the fastener.
- A special screw with a ring that is used for tightening.
- Hairpins.
You should make a stationary sponge. How to make this element? To create, use pine wood. It is affordable and quite durable. The board should be grafted onto the tabletop.
To make the mobile part of the vice you need a board with dimensions of 2 cm thick and 1.8 cm wide. The length of the movable jaws for clamps must be from 50 cm.
All you need to do is cut holes with a diameter of 2.1 cm. In studs, this diameter will be 1 cm. Then the creator simply inserts the studs along with the screws into the finished holes, after which he attaches the nuts and tightens them with bolts.
And this concludes the production of home vices.
When you have created your home drilling machine, you should definitely check it.
Plug the motor into the outlet and, if you did everything correctly, there is no short circuit, there are no unusual sounds for the operation of the unit - you can congratulate yourself on the successful completion of the project.
A homemade machine will allow you to perform simple drilling operations at home and save on the services of auto repair shops or turners.
Video on how to make a drilling machine
The only thing is that in order for the equipment to work as long as possible, do not be shy or lazy to check the working surfaces along with the engine every six months for damage or wear of parts. Timely identification of the problem will allow you to protect yourself from real troubles.
