Construction wooden scaffolding for mounting the roof of the greenhouse. Instructions for the manufacture of scaffolding from pipes and boards with your own hands. Collapsible metal scaffolding pin type

All photos from the article

Are there any regulatory requirements for scaffolding used in laying walls and facades? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how home-made wood scaffolding is assembled correctly.

Regulations

Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:

GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding in construction;
SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; scaffolding is mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

To clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST normalizes the design load on scaffolding, depending on their type and the height of the site above ground level.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables which can accommodate up to two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:

Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground).
Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders).
Stubborn cuts (prevent scaffolding from overturning).
Railings (protect workers from falling).
Ladders (used for lifting and descending from working platforms).

The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.

Scaffolding from metal are several times more expensive than wooden ones, but they have no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands

Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
working platform width - 1 meter.

It has been established by ergonomics that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - a bar with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick.
Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged board"thirty".
For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:

on a flat platform, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut to size according to the height of the scaffolding;
racks are connected with horizontal jumpers, on which the working flooring will be laid;
two received frames of the "ladder" are placed vertically one against the other and connect them with diagonal and horizontal ties;
flooring from boards is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
forests are fixed on two side cuts-stops;
railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to wood. The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and jumpers (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal screeds).
Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly shield (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps;
the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretch marks are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled in them;
tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
screeds are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
holes for bolted connections are drilled on racks and railings;
plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe segments;
the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
on the side lintels lay the flooring from the "forty" board.

Useful advice: to exclude longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties should be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for fastening the profile pipe of the thrust slope, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper part of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length).

If you decide to build a house, do-it-yourself scaffolding can be easily made. The basis of this design can be wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, stairs, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. It is worth preferring wooden scaffolding, it will be much easier to make them with your own hands than metal ones. However, such forests are not intended for significant loads. After the design can be disassembled and used individual elements for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of the assembly of wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then you will need to follow some rules. The design should be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be ensured between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you need to be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When scaffolding is made by hand, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, in this case, one cannot do without a square-section beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards, you need to choose or purchase those that have a thickness of 30 millimeters. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to measure. Well, if the master has it Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber, which is devoid of cracks. If raw wood is preferred, then it will significantly weight the structure. Among other things, after drying, the structure may be deformed. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Frame work

If scaffolding will be made with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to deal with the frame, while four pieces of timber will be used, which must be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on an even, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which has a length of four meters. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed with inside support beams. Smaller blanks are reinforced along the top edge, while larger ones are installed along the bottom. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal braces.

Frame installation

If do-it-yourself scaffolding is made, then the next step will be to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The step between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the top edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are located in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. Finished scaffolding should take the form of a pyramid, and its side parts should be located strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the upper bars that are located across. It is better to fix them along the width of the frame. Elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional elements located across should be fixed, which will be convenient to use as a ladder.

An alternative option for making scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one that is developed by yourself. For work, lumber of different sections and sizes should be prepared. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be equal to 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Railing rails may have given parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you have planned not only the construction of a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise to perform the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

Bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, it is desirable to make them reinforced, since elements of a smaller section reduce the strength of such a structure. When doing scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum allowable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure tipping over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, self-tapping screws can be used. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with their own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that such structures can have a rather impressive height, a fall from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber, you should only purchase high-quality and well-dried wood. Only if these rules are observed, it will be possible to achieve an excellent result, which implies the strength and reliability of scaffolding. Such structures can be operated even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subjected to negative external influences.

Many works in the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at height. To facilitate and make the process of performing such activities safer, scaffolding, which is easy to purchase in ready-made or assemble by hand. Independently, such structures are made from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple schemes.

The main elements of scaffolding made of wood and metal

Scaffolding (SL) is an auxiliary supporting structure. They are used for mounting wall siding and roofing, filing gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other events. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following main elements:

Vertical racks. These parts take the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
Jumpers. Parts of the structure that serve for the installation of the flooring. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
Ties. They are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
Railing. They are the simplest fence that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
Flooring. The structure is made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
Stairs. Allow builders to climb up and down scaffolding.
Stubborn cuts. An important element of the structure, protecting it from overturning.

Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They are light in weight. Their parts are attached to each other with screws or nails. But wooden structures are not suitable for serious loads. The dismantling of such scaffolding takes a long time. They are allowed to subsequently collect a few more times to perform high-altitude work. But the strength of re-mounted structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.

SL from a profile pipe is much more reliable. They are quickly dismantled and then promptly assembled, retaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they are allowed to increase additional elements.

Types of structures and their performance characteristics

All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used to assemble them. There are the following types of structures described:

Frame.
Pin.
Wedge.
Suspended.
Clamp.

Frame structures are strong and durable in operation. They are made from metal parts with low weight (for example, from aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. Often they are equipped with wheels to quickly move the structure along the surface to be treated (walls of the house, gable).

Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Gathered from metal pipes, connected into a single structure by socket locking elements and welding (with its help, curved pieces of reinforcing bars are welded to the structure). Pin SLs are recommended for brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.

Wedge scaffolds are mobile and strong enough. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special slotted flanges. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.

Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used when decorating walls with tiles and other types facing materials, for washing facade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.

Reliable wooden construction - how to do it yourself?

Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3-5 cm thick and a beam of 10x10 cm. A circular saw, a drill and a hammer are required from the tool. Nails (self-tapping screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work is carried out with a tape measure and building level. Boards with a thickness of 3 cm are designed to create stiffeners, 5 cm - for the construction of flooring. The scaffold drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:

The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length - 400.
The minimum deck width is 100 cm.
The distance between the supporting posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.

For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It is not allowed to have cracks and other defects. All wooden elements are treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and decay. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. According to the planned height of the SL, four beams are cut. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams 360 and 400 cm long are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first - along the top. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with struts. The installation of the latter is carried out diagonally.

Frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, connected (temporarily) by sidewalls. The distance between the upper edges of the support posts is taken as 100 cm, between the lower ones - 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal mounting of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one piece with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made of soft metal, which does not break under heavy load, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If variable or tangible shock loads act on the scaffolding, such fasteners break. This causes the SLs to fall apart.

The flooring is made from planks. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are mounted without gaps - the denser they lie, the more reliable the construction will be. On the sides of the structure, additional crossbars are being installed. These jumpers give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.

Metal scaffolding - how many years are they designed for?

Profile pipe structures consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding will take on serious loads, it is better to build them from steel. To assemble a metal structure, you need a welding unit, an electric drill, a level, a grinder, fasteners (bolts and self-tapping screws). Scaffold decking is made of edged boards (recommended thickness is 4 cm). Supports, crossbars, adapters and other parts of the structure are made of round and shaped pipes with a section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.

Spacers are cut from 1.5 cm diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal - 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters). Their length is 6 cm. After that, the tubular products are flattened at the points of cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of the supporting pillars and struts.

Pipes with a section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into segments 8 and 30 cm long, respectively. Adapters are made from the obtained blanks - special elements for increasing the height of the SL. Segments of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.

With the help of spacers and uprights two frames are created. It is not difficult to make them - you should weld the spacers to the racks every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that visually resemble stairs.

Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The plates will not allow the massive structure to fall under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it into the ground. If necessary, wooden bars are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.

Welded frames are placed vertically. The fixing points of the diagonal braces are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All parts of the scaffolding are connected. After that, the horizontalness of the crossbars must be checked using a level. In the presence of a skew, parts of the SL are adjusted. exploit homemade design with non-horizontal crossbars is prohibited due to its low stability.

Fabrication of flooring and painting of pipe structures

The flooring of metal scaffolding is made of boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case, wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). In the longitudinal direction, it is allowed to lay boards with a length of more than 200 cm. They are knocked into one flooring (without gaps) and reinforced from deflection by transverse bars. The latter are mounted below the boards.

At the ends of the flooring, a U-shaped metal profile is mounted. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the latter with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of shifting the boards.

Scaffolding from a profile pipe is used repeatedly. They are easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To prolong their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:

all elements of scaffolding are carefully sanded;
metal surfaces are dedusted;
pipes are primed.

After the soil dries, painting is carried out. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint on the flooring from the boards, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a private house, sometimes you have to work at height. With the help of the usual ladder work is not always convenient, and sometimes even impossible.

The way out of this situation will be scaffolding with your own hands.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, as it is cheaper. Everyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, or a hammer. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone's house, and if something is not there, at the purchase the right tool won't take a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, and so welding machine and at least a basic concept of how to properly weld seams. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases forests are made of wood.

materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but the manufacture requires the use of high quality wood and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

Scaffolding can also be made from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to fold two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If it lasts, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen according to what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can also be used after dismantling scaffolding in construction work, if possible not to damage it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about what is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the design must be reliable. In this case, the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding, because there are cases when they broke. But it was about the "black" screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is better to use nails to make scaffolding with your own hands. But they are not loved because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and quickly, as the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails, and whole boards can be used over a long span, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and easily remove the nails.

Design features

For various kinds works will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. For work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make side scaffolds or a structure in the form of an envelope. For finishing gables or just outdoor decoration of a one-story low house, the use of construction goats is permissible, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, goats with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Wood scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on the stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolds

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not attached. They are held in place by an emphasis. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "G", but they are deployed in different directions.

In the first figure, reliable and simple design scaffolding. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second drawing shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you can’t tell. But still it is verified by thousands of people who used them in construction. It's attractive the ones it takes minimal amount building materials, and assembly / disassembly / transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the right height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The crossbeam on top should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and wide - the more the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal pads in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner with three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is made for each meter. If it works out, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground, and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs that will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you want to grow the thrust boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional emphasis. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove part of the load. Now about do-it-yourself scaffolding flooring. It must be made from wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest fluctuations underfoot will cause discomfort, so it is highly desirable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if the use of heavy materials is not expected. It is not always possible to lean the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, and first we begin to assemble the racks. It will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them proceed from the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on the flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upward.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not sag. Installed racks at the right distance should be fastened with slopes between themselves. So they will not allow the structure to fold to the side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the design will be.

Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with timber or boards, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. Cross beams they will not allow the structure to fold to one side, but there is a possibility that without fixing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, you can not support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give confidence during construction.

Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such forests are inconvenient in that they have to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can build scaffolding from sturdy old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.

Construction goats

There is another easy way to make mobile light scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, which are stuffed with certain step crossbars, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Floor boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for sheathing a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and it is necessary to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats would be the best option.

Sometimes they make one rack on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This great option when painting, caulking and preventive treatment.

Varieties and knots of metal scaffolding

When building a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than wooden structures because it's more expensive. The second decisive moment is the analysis of the construction wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into action, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to take care of a log house, for example, which means that once every 2-3 years they will definitely be needed. In this plan metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All scaffolding made of metal have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin ones are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes, you will have to additionally weld the pipes.