Why does garlic turn yellow and what to do in this case. Why does garlic turn yellow

If the garlic has turned yellow, this is not a reason to sound the alarm. This is how the plant signals that it needs your help. Now we will tell you how to restore garlic to its healthy appearance.

Any gardener has encountered the problem of yellowing garlic. The tops may look diseased long before ripening, and the discoloration begins at the top of the leaves and gradually spreads to the entire plant. As a result, the supply of nutrients to the garlic head is reduced, and the bulk of the crop dies. What leads to garlic “disease” and why it loses its attractiveness appearance?

1. Garlic was destroyed by frost

Winter garlic could freeze even in winter. Perhaps you planted it too early, so the sprouts had time to hatch, but could not resist the frost. Depending on the region, garlic is planted before winter from mid-September to the end of November. The cloves are placed in the soil to a depth of 4-6 cm and covered with a layer of humus 5-7 cm thick to protect them from freezing.

Plant garlic in a sunny place - in winter, the temperature in the shade is several degrees lower than in the sun

The frost resistance of garlic is also increased by bioactive additives (Baikal EM-1). In addition, you need to constantly monitor the garlic and cover it with film when severe frosts approach. Garlic damaged by recurrent spring frosts can be “revitalized” with Epin or Zircon.

2. Lack of nitrogen in the soil

A fairly common cause of garlic turning yellow. It is due to the fact that nitrogen is quickly washed out of the soil, and the plant does not receive it in the required quantity. All you need to do in this case is to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. This must be done during active growth garlic - in early spring. You can use mineral or organic additives, or you can get by with urea or urea.

With nitrogen deficiency, garlic leaves become narrow and elongated.

To apply fertilizers, make shallow grooves (1-2 cm) between the rows of garlic and apply existing fertilizers at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq.m or according to the instructions. Level the grooves and water the beds; you can also add compost. If you decide to stick with urea, then prepare a solution - dilute 20 g of urea in a bucket of water (10 l) and water the plantings with it at the rate of 8-10 l/sq.m of soil.

3. Lack of potassium and magnesium

Two important microelements, without which the healthy existence of garlic is impossible. If there are not enough of them, the garlic first begins to turn slightly yellow and then dry out. If there is a potassium deficiency, water the beds with garlic with a solution of potassium sulfate at the rate of 15-20 g per 10 liters of water. The lack of magnesium can be compensated for with a solution of your own production. To do this, you will need to dilute 150-200 g of magnesium sulfate in 10 liters of water. Fertilize at the rate of 7-8 l/sq.m. For dry natural fertilizers, we recommend manure (1 kg per 1 sq.m.) and ash (100 g/sq.m.).

With a lack of potassium, the tips of garlic feathers become lighter and curl.

4. Lack of moisture

Any plant needs moisture; even the hardiest crops often die from its lack. Garlic especially needs watering in May-June, and if you also loosen the soil, the plant will be endlessly grateful to you.

Water the garlic once a week at the rate of 5-10 liters of water per 1 sq.m.

5. The soil is too acidic - how to save garlic

Garlic loves neutral soil, in as a last resort, slightly acidic. But it does not develop on soils with high level pH. Universal solution, which will help reduce acidity is lime. To lower the pH of strongly acidic soils (pH ≤ 4.5) per hundred square meters you need 50-70 kg of lime, for acidic soils (pH = 4.6-5) - 35-45 kg/acre and for slightly acidic soils (pH = 5.1- 5.5) – 30-35 kg/sq.m.

Garlic grows well in loamy soils rich in organic matter.

6. Diseases and pests

Garlic contamination can be caused by bacteria living in the soil.

7. Violation of agricultural technology

Do you know when garlic can be doomed? Not from the moment of incorrect landing, but from the choice of poor quality planting material. If you are unlucky from the very beginning, then there is no point in saving the plant in the future. Also, you should not plant garlic in beds where onions and potatoes previously grew. The best “neighbors” of garlic are cucumber, zucchini, cabbage, mint, coriander, and calendula.

For planting, choose ripe and dry bulbs with clearly defined teeth and scales.

Garlic is grown on almost every personal plot, in the garden and at the dacha. It is planted before winter (winter), and. But it happens that after garlic sprouts in the spring, the stems and leaves begin to turn yellow.

Why do garlic leaves turn yellow?

Causes of yellowing garlic

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, and therefore its sprouts appear in the garden as soon as the snow melts. And how disappointing it can be when the stems begin to turn yellow. But this is not a reason for despair: by finding out the cause of this phenomenon, the plant can be helped.
Possible reasons:

infertile soil
acidic soil
lack of moisture
lack of fertilizers
shallow landing

Infertile soil

This is one of the reasons why garlic stalks turn yellow. To prevent this from happening, in the fall, substrates containing nitrogen (humus, ready-made compost) are added to the soil for garlic. If this was not done and the leaves began to stretch out and turn yellow in the spring, this is a sure sign of a deficiency of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

To correct the situation, you should feed the plants. You can use urea, which is applied between the rows of plantings with garlic. A shallow furrow is cut, fertilizer is scattered into it, and the whole thing is covered with earth. To ensure faster delivery of food to the roots, the seedlings need to be watered.

A good solution to the problem would be to mulch the beds. Early in spring, after the first loosening, spread the same humus or compost on the ground between the sprouts. This technique will provide the garlic planting with nutrition for the entire growing season.

Onions, potatoes, and garlic itself should not have grown in the garden bed that was designated for planting garlic in the fall. After these crops good harvest you can't get vegetables.

Acidic soil

Lands with acidity higher than normal are not suitable for growing garlic. Therefore, liming is necessary in the fall.

Chalk, dolomite flour, fluff lime are those additives that are used to deoxidize the soil.

The best soil acidity indicator for garlic is pH 6-7. To solve this problem, it is enough to scatter 0.5 kg of one of the listed preparations over the garden bed and dig up the ground.

Lack of moisture

At the beginning of the growing season and in the first hot month of summer, garlic may suffer in the absence of rain and watering. Having a weak root system, the plant cannot obtain water below the end of its roots.

Due to lack of moisture, it begins to turn yellow, first at the tips of the leaves. If measures are not taken in time, the entire plant will soon turn yellow and die.

The conclusion is obvious: we should not forget about watering the garlic beds.

Fertilizer shortage

Another reason why garlic leaves turn yellow and dry out is an insufficient amount of potassium and magnesium in the soil. In this case, fertilizers such as magnesium sulfate and potassium sulfate will help.

To fertilize with fertilizers containing magnesium, they are diluted in the ratio: 150 g. for 10 l. water.

Potash fertilizers: 15g. for the same volume of liquid.

It can be scattered over the beds, followed by watering;
you can pollinate plant leaves;
You can prepare an infusion for watering.

A kilogram of ash is poured with boiling water and left for three days, stirring occasionally. During watering, add 1 liter of infusion to a ten-liter watering can with water. Garlic responds very well to this feeding.

Shallow landing

Usually done to a depth of 6-8 cm. This option is acceptable if the bed was prepared in advance, 3-4 weeks before the expected date of work. During this time, the soil will settle well, which means that in the spring, the cloves that have sprouted will not peek out of the ground. They will not freeze in winter. Otherwise, the same problem with yellowed stems will appear.

If this happens, you need to hill up the seedlings and mulch the bed, feed complex fertilizers.

Early boarding

Another reason for yellowing of garlic may be its early boarding. This leads to the fact that the teeth not only take root, but also have time to germinate. Green shoots will go into winter unprotected. This is not a problem for cold-resistant garlic; it will not die, but in the spring yellow sprouts may sprout. Or yellowing during the growing season.

But this problem can also be solved. Good care, timely watering and fertilizing will improve the situation.

Diseases and pests

The most dangerous, but less common, cause of yellowing of garlic in spring and summer is its diseases and damage by insect pests.

In wet summers there is a danger of damage to plantings stem nematode. This almost invisible worm can cause a lot of trouble for a gardener, because it is very difficult to fight.

The most common methods are:

watering with saline solution (2 handfuls of salt per 10 liters of water),
solution with application ammonia: add 2 tablespoons of alcohol to a ten-liter bucket of water.

Watering is required at the root; if it gets on the stems, the solution is washed off with watering from a watering can.

Often, garlic diseases are transmitted through cloves that are intended for planting. Using garlic from your garden beds as planting material that has not been rejuvenated for many years can lead to serious problems.

Viral infections can accumulate and develop in garlic ( mosaic, yellow dwarfism). By planting such seeds in the garden, the summer resident will receive a diseased plant, which will eventually turn yellow.

Poor quality planting material can cause yellowing of leaves during growth.

In this case, prevention will help: good pre-planting treatment of garlic cloves. Prepare an ash solution: 2 cups of ash per 2 liters of water. Leave for half an hour, then drain the liquid and soak the teeth in it. 30 minutes will be enough to process the planting material.

Video about yellowing garlic leaves

Following the advice from this article, every summer resident will be able to find the answer to the question: why did the garlic stalks turn yellow in his garden and how to deal with it?

I wish you healthy green garlic shoots.

The garlic leaves have turned yellow... Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring? What to do? How to prevent this phenomenon? Could it be a disease? Then what to process with? Or maybe he is missing something? How and what to feed? This phenomenon is not uncommon in our gardens. We usually see garlic leaves starting to turn yellow from the tips. Then this yellowing increases, the development of the plant is accordingly delayed, and the bulbs form smaller. The reasons may be different.

The main reasons for yellowing of garlic leaves in spring

Firstly, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after it is exposed to severe frost. This is one of the reasons.

Secondly, this can happen if the bulb is infected with some kind of fungal disease.

These are just two reasons. They seem to be obvious; we can ourselves determine the reason for the yellowing of garlic leaves. In the morning we woke up, and there was frost on the grass and the puddles were covered with thin ice. Or they pulled out an onion and saw that on the bottom, the roots had turned black, and mold had appeared.

What to do after spring frosts? If the garlic has been caught by a light frost or there has been a frost, then it is advisable to immediately treat it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Epin, Zircon and others.

Garlic diseases

At the very beginning, I said that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They may be the cause of yellow leaves. It is difficult to treat fusarium and bacterial rot - it is easier to prevent. What to do? Before planting, the teeth had to be disinfected - pour a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate, or the Maxim drug, or the Fitosporin drug for 15-25 minutes. If you did not do this before planting, you can water the beds with these solutions for prevention.

But sometimes such obvious signs There is no apparent reason for the yellowing. There were no frosts, the root on the bulb was clean. What's going on? What to do? What to process? Or maybe you need to feed it?

How to feed garlic in spring

One of the reasons why the leaves of garlic planted before winter turn yellow is a lack of nutrients. Most often, it lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do? For feeding, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers.

Carefully loosen the rows. Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove. Pour (sow) granular fertilizers there, for example, urea (urea) or some complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with soil. After this, water the entire bed with row spacing generously so that the fertilizer dissolves, since any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After this, you can mulch the wet bed with dry soil or compost to keep the soil moist for as long as possible.

This is one option for using mineral fertilizer.

Second option. First dissolve dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertika Lux per 10 liters of water), water. Consumption - 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. This option is even preferable, since liquid fertilizer immediately reaches the roots of the plants.

What else can you do? You can do foliar feeding. It is especially useful for young plants. Can be fed with complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which garlic also often lacks. The norm of potassium sulfate is 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water. Set your sprayer to a fine spray and spray all the leaves generously. This should be done in the evening in dry, windless weather, so that droplets of the nutrient solution fall on the leaves and do not dry out in the wind, but are completely absorbed.

From organic fertilizers For feeding, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds, with the addition of wood ash. I described in detail how to make such green fertilizer in the article. A solution of this liquid “green fertilizer” can be used to water plants at the roots or to do foliar feeding.

Garlic planting dates

There is another reason for the appearance of yellow leaves on garlic. This is a failure to comply with planting deadlines. Beginning gardeners plant garlic early in the fall, for example, in early September. And it needs to be planted approximately two to three weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather. For the Krasnodar Territory this is November, for middle zone– end of September-October. Why is that? It should only have time to take root, but not grow. If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring, after the snow melts, they will appear. yellow leaves on garlic that has risen too early. They just froze.

Garlic pests: onion fly, onion stem nematode

Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Examine the plants carefully. You notice small worms at the base of the leaves. These are larvae onion fly. What to process? You can get rid of them using a saline solution. To do this, take 200 g of table salt and dilute it in 10 liters of water. We spray with this solution. The worms will disappear.

The reason that the garlic leaves have turned yellow may be the onion stem nematode. This is perhaps the biggest nuisance. There is no use fighting her. Can live in soil, without water or food, for 8-10 years.

What does an infected plant look like? The plant begins to wither. The leaves lighten, curl, and the cracked bulb begins to rot. Dig up one head with yellowed, curled leaves. If it is damaged by a nematode, then at the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating - these are small worms that can only be seen through a magnifying glass with 10-20x magnification - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb is an accumulation of the pest. What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. Next year, plant garlic and onions in another bed.

What to process? Currently no effective means fighting nematodes. Before planting, it is recommended to soak the garlic cloves in hot (40-45°C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% solution of table salt for 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22°C. Such treatment will not completely destroy the nematode, but will significantly reduce its number and curb the spread of the pest. In the future, be more attentive to the selection of planting material.

The nematode loves acidic soils. Therefore, deoxidize the infected area with lime or dolomite flour. The nematode lives in plant debris and lumps of earth. In infected areas, sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds). Marigolds and calendula attract the nematode with their smell; they follow this smell, stick to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous to it and it dies.

Let's now summarize and briefly list the reasons why garlic may turn yellow.

The seedlings were frozen.
The soil lacks basic nutrients - nitrogen and potassium.
They planted it too early - it began to grow before the onset of cold weather.
Planting material or soil is contaminated with spores of pathogenic fungi or stem onion nematode.
Onion fly larvae damaged.
Drought, insufficient watering, and dense soil can also cause yellowing.

Having determined the reason why your garlic turns yellow, you can answer the questions yourself - what to do, what to process and feed.

Summer has just begun, and the tips of the garlic leaves have begun to turn yellow. Why does this happen if the harvesting of garlic is still far away? Let’s find out in our article.

Winter garlic leaves may turn yellow in the spring if it was planted too early before winter. Try to plant winter garlic after October 15, then the sprouts will not have time to hatch.

Garlic may turn yellow after spring frosts; it can be helped by spraying it with an antidepressant, such as Zircon. Treatments with this drug should be carried out until the plants recover, every 5-7 days (1 ml per 10 liters of water).

Yellowing of garlic can be caused by lack of moisture. In this case, we increase watering of the garlic and loosen the row spacing, giving air to the roots.

The onion fly can cause yellowing of garlic. She is not afraid of the pungent smell of the plant itself, but you can scare it away if you sprinkle the garden bed with a mixture of tobacco dust and wood ash. Sow carrots in the garlic bed; the onion fly does not like them.

Garlic may turn yellow under the influence of fungal disease, in which the roots rot. This can be avoided if you soak garlic cloves in potassium permanganate or Maxim before planting.

A lack of nitrogen also causes yellowing of garlic leaves; in the spring, always apply nitrogen fertilizers when loosening the beds. You can still feed the garlic with urea (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water). Any feeding of garlic ends at the end of June!

Garlic in the garden also turns yellow due to a lack of potassium. Therefore, potassium fertilizer, such as potassium sulfate, must be added to the soil.

Lack of magnesium is also the reason why garlic turns yellow. Fertilizers such as potassium magnesium and dolomite flour are rich in magnesium (applied during digging in the fall).

Folk advice on what to do if garlic turns yellow:

Urea or mullein helps with nitrogen deficiency;
Pour boiling water over 2 cups of ash, leave and pour over the garlic;
pour the salt solution over the garlic, take 1 tbsp per bucket of water;
use a weak solution of potassium permanganate for watering.

Why garlic leaves turn yellow and what to do about it, we hope you found out. To reduce the risk of developing garlic diseases, be sure to carry out clove prevention before planting. High yields!

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Garlic, a favorite herb in almost every family, is a cause for concern when gardeners see its leaves turning yellow. Unfortunately, this strong-smelling plant, which is often used as a natural medicine for other crops, is sick. Although yellowing of garlic leaves can be caused by other reasons. You need to know many farming secrets in order to grow large garlic without damage - both winter garlic, which is planted in the fall, and spring garlic, which is planted in the spring.

Causes of yellowing garlic leaves and their elimination

Yellowing of the leaves is a signal of trouble with the plant, which the gardener should take seriously. It's time to think about what and when to feed garlic if it turns yellow in the spring. Don't blame it on weather conditions. Although they are also included in this list.

Factors affecting the appearance of garlic

Indeed, it is often spring frosts that are “to blame” for the yellowing of garlic feathers. Late morning frosts damage young greenery. It must be immediately supported by treating it with growth stimulants, which are offered in abundance by the distribution network: Zircon, Epin, HB-101 and others;
Planting time also affects the development of the plant. Early, in September, can lead to the fact that the first garlic feathers will already sprout before the onset of cold weather. Subsequently, these specimens will become weakened;
If the clove is deeply buried, the entire plant may suffer;
Garlic does not tolerate high soil acidity;
Lack of sufficient amounts of essential nutrients - nitrogen and potassium;
The planting material or soil has become infected with a stem onion nematode or fungal diseases;
Garlic plantings are damaged by onion fly larvae;
The bed urgently needs loosening or watering.

Did you know? Experienced gardeners Determine soil acidity “quickly and cheaply.” A handful of cherry or currant leaves are brewed in hot water. When the water has cooled, throw in a pinch of earth. The water turns red - the soil is acidic; blue – the soil has low acidity; greenish – the soil is neutral.

Preparing a bed for garlic, planting, care

The soil should be loose, it should be fertilized with manure, potassium salt and superphosphate (according to the instructions). If the soils are acidic, they are limed once every ten years: per 1 sq. m - 200-500 g of crushed limestone is mixed with humus and laid out on the ground before plowing.

Winter garlic develops well provided that the height of the soil cover from the top of the planted clove to the surface of the bed is no more than four centimeters. The area is sprinkled with humus, sawdust or peat, and in the spring, after the soil has dried, this layer is removed.

How to improve productivity?
We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there will be a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we would like to recommend plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.
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Particular attention should be given to watering and loosening the beds of garlic in May and June, when the cloves are forming. Garlic likes warm, settled water.

The arrows need to be removed. Two weeks before harvesting, the soil is raked away from the heads so that they develop better. If winter garlic is not removed in time, the cloves will fall apart and will not stick together.

Necessary feeding

Mineral fertilizers applied according to the rules of agricultural technology significantly improve the development of both winter and spring garlic. As soon as the snow melts and the soil dries, winter garlic is given the first feeding, the next one two weeks later, the third one in the middle of the second to the beginning of the third decade of June, when the cloves form. Spring garlic is also fertilized three times: when the third leaf appears; after 15 days; at the end of June. We must hope that then such a problem will not arise: the garlic turns yellow. Every gardener wonders what is the best way to water and feed this valuable onion plant – traditional organic matter or minerals.

Organic feeding

The answer is simple: both types are valuable, they complement each other well. Typically the best fall fertilizer is manure or bird droppings. In the spring-summer period, humus and droppings are diluted with water at the rate of 1:4 and 1:15, respectively. It is always better to add nitrogen fertilizers to humus, since nitrogen evaporates from the original organic matter during overheating. Suitable as a potassium supplement wood ash: one glass will be consumed per square meter. The soil is then loosened.

Use of mineral fertilizers

From the beginning of growth, in the spring, mixtures with nitrogen are added, then complex mixtures with potassium. And the finishing touch for the formation of heads is phosphorus-based fertilizer.

The first fertilizing, so that the garlic does not turn yellow, is carried out with nitrogen fertilizers - urea (may be sold under the name urea), ammonium nitrate or others, which are offered for this purpose by gardening stores. One tablespoon of the substance is diluted in a bucket of water. Water the bed with garlic with this solution, hoping that for one square meter it needs to be added about 3 liters;
The second time they are fed with complex fertilizers based on all three main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. You can choose from: nitrophoska (it contains up to 50% potassium, little phosphorus) - 40-60 g per 1 sq.m; nitroammophoska (more phosphorus) – 40-50 g per 1 sq.m. Dilute two tablespoons of fertilizer in ten liters of water. The consumption rate increases - up to 4 liters;
For the last feeding, dilute two spoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water, now watering the area more abundantly - in a ratio of 5 liters per square meter.

What causes garlic?

The owner will go out to the garden, and how sorry he is for the yellowed leaves of garlic, which only recently pleased them with their first juicy spring greens! Meanwhile, garlic has many diseases.

Interesting! Exist folk signs: never plant onions and garlic in the same place where they were last year - this way you can avoid last year’s pests and pathogens.

Prevention of fungal diseases

Garlic can be affected by spores serious illnesses: fusarium (rot), bacterial and neck rot, rust (convex rust-colored spots), penicillosis (green mold), downy mildew (false powdery mildew). On initial stage you can get rid of them using chemicals.

Before planting, the cloves need to be soaked for 20 minutes, more if possible, in a solution of manganese or fungicides (Fitosporin, Maxim and others). This will prevent the development of fungal infections on garlic;

Exists folk method disinfection with salt. Collect half a kilogram of fern leaves, chop them finely, put them in a bucket, add 3 tablespoons of salt and fill them with water. The cloves are kept in the solution for 20 minutes. Water the soil where the garlic grows with this mixture.

Pests in the garden

Alternation of plantings is effective;
The easiest way to get rid of onion flies. If worms are visible at the base of the leaf - its larvae, they are sprayed with a saline solution: 200 g of salt per bucket of water;
The stem onion nematode is a formidable pest. Can survive in soil for up to 10 years (without water or food). The leaves of damaged garlic become lighter and curl. At the bottom of the cloves you can see a pinkish-white coating - an accumulation of worms. Their length is one and a half millimeters. The only way to “escape” from the nematode is to plant plants in another area. Now there are no effective means of combating it;
Prevention: disinfection before planting. Garlic cloves are placed in hot water up to 45 degrees for two hours or in a saline solution (300 g per bucket of water) for half an hour.
The nematode prefers acidic soils. To disinfect them, they are limed;
The nematode is attracted by the smell of marigolds, calendula, and mint. She sucks the juice from their roots, which is poisonous to her.

For those who carefully care for garlic, it produces a stable harvest.

And a little about the author’s secrets

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