Finish coatings such as wallpaper and paint, due to their fine structure, convey on their surface even the slightest irregularities in the base of the walls. Oblique rays of light will always “find” such places and emphasize the unevenness of the base. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly sand a wall covered with putty. Sanding plaster is hardly worth undertaking. After all, any plaster must be puttied. Only sanding the putty will provide a smooth base before wallpapering or painting the walls. The article tells you how to sand walls after puttying.
Methods for sanding putty walls
There are several ways to sand putty. This is manual grouting of walls after putty and mechanized cleaning of walls.
Manual grouting of putty
Leveling putty surfaces manually is painstaking and time-consuming work. To get the perfect smooth surface you need to know how to sand putty. The most common method for sanding walls is to use hand grout.
Hand tool
There are several varieties hand tools. These devices are based on a single principle of fastening the grout mesh. These are basically spring clips located on both sides of the device. The back of the grater is covered with a soft polymer pad, onto which an abrasive mesh is placed, securing it on the sides with clamps. Side clamps secure the mesh in a taut state.
Some models have a comfortable handle, and there are grouts with side bends for gripping with the hand. The top photo shows the grout pattern on the lever. This tool does not cause any difficulties in how to rub putty on high fences. In this case, you can do without stairs and scaffolding.
Sanding mesh
In order not to think about what kind of sandpaper to rub the putty with, nets were invented for sanding the putty. Today, nine types of abrasives of this type can be found in the retail chain. The grouting mesh has standard size 105x280 mm.
Based on the quality of surface treatment, there are three types of abrasive materials:
- A coarse mesh is the material with which you need to grind putty of the starting composition, dry plaster with rough surface defects.
- The medium mesh is used to cover smaller defects in the coating. The abrasive applied to the material is slightly less than on a coarse mesh.
- Fine skin is intended for processing finishing putty. After sanding the walls after applying the finishing compound, they move on to final finishing fencing.
The coarse mesh is marked by numbers: No. 40, 60, 80. The brand number can be recognized by the inscription on the mesh itself. Accordingly, the average abrasive has No. 120, 160, 180. The finishing grout mesh has its numbers: No. 200, 240, 280.
The numbers reflect the grind size of the abrasive substance applied to the mesh. If the number 60 is written on the abrasive strip, this means that the material is intended for sanding putty of the starting composition. If the number is 240, then the abrasive material is intended for cleaning finishing putty.
Hand grouting technique
After you have decided what to sand the walls after puttying, the mesh the desired number tucked into a hand-troweled tool. The putty grater in the worker’s hand moves along the surface of the fence in a circular motion.
Video of sanding putty by hand:
Mechanical grinding of walls
It is advisable to carry out mechanical cleaning of puttied walls for large volumes of work. To do this, several types of power tools are used: a vibrating grinder, an orbital grinder, an angle grinder and a grinding and polishing machine,
Vibrating type machine
Using an electric vibration grinder can significantly reduce operating time and increase productivity. The machine has a movable platform on which an abrasive mesh is attached. When the engine is turned on, the platform oscillates transversely along the wall surface.
There are holes on the platform and on the abrasive mesh. Dust is sucked out through them, which is then collected in a special bag. The dust is discharged through a hose connected to the vacuum cleaner. The vibration amplitude of the platform is about 2 mm. As a rule, this tool is used for stripping finishing putty and for sanding walls. wooden house. Sanding timber walls with such a machine allows you to achieve high quality processing of wooden surfaces.
The disadvantage of such a tool is the rapid accumulation of dust inside the machine mechanism. You often have to open the body of the instrument and clean its inside.
Rotary orbital sander
The rotary machine is equipped with a two-handed grip. Of all the tools of a similar purpose, the tool has the lowest level of vibration. The low profile of the housing allows you to visually control the quality of surface treatment. Under the influence of rotation abrasive wheel, the machine seems to stick to the wall, which makes it easier to control the machine.
The tool is equipped with grinding wheels of various abrasive sizes. The machine is easy to operate and in the process of working with it there are no special problems in how to rub the putty. By changing the wheels on the tool, you can grind any putty surface.
The only drawback of rotary power tools is that after working with them you have to clean hard-to-reach places, including corners, manually.
Angle grinder
Angle power tools are multifunctional by design. In addition to all types of work, sanding walls made of timber is perfectly done with an angle grinder.
Angle grinders are modern, safe and easy-to-use power tools. They can be used for cutting, polishing and grinding various materials. At correct selection With an abrasive wheel you can quickly polish the walls made of timber inside the house.
Whatever the masonry of walls made of uneven logs in the house, a worker, armed with such a tool, will polish the surfaces of the putty and wooden walls to perfect condition.
Grinding and polishing machine
Machines of this type include tools from Flex. The Flex L 602 VR model is designed for polishing and sanding walls and ceilings. Thanks to successful development design of the unit, the worker in the process of cleaning putty walls will not feel a strong load on his hands and shoulder girdle. The weight of the machine is only 3.3 kg.
A convenient dust extraction allows the operator to work without a respirator, which ensures high working conditions.
The Giraffe Flex model is interesting in that the power unit is mounted on a long air duct rod. This allows the worker to work on high walls while standing on the floor.
The manufacturer, along with the tool, supplies personal protective equipment: glasses, headphones, gloves and other attributes.
Machines of this type are equipped with special grinding wheels. When working with a tool, the vacuum cleaner creates negative pressure through an opening in the center grinding wheel. The unit presses against the wall, which significantly relieves muscle tension in the operator's hands.
Features of sanding wooden walls
The most famous two options for wooden walls are fences made of timber and logs. The surface of timber walls gives in as manual grinding, and mechanized processing using power tools.
Manual stripping emery cloth very tedious and time-consuming work. The task is facilitated by the fact that the beam forms a flat vertical wooden plane. It is better to work with such material using a power tool.
Sanding wooden walls made of timber is carried out in several stages:
- initially, a rough cleaning of the surface of the walls is carried out using a chisel and other cutting devices. Using a chisel, remove all protruding parts of the surface of the timber. After removing the knots, the recesses are puttied;
- after this the wood is treated with a coarse abrasive;
- the timber is finally polished with a mesh or wheel with a minimum abrasive size;
- the treated walls are primed and covered with paint or varnish.
The outer surfaces of the log house have a pronounced relief of semi-ovals made of folded logs. The logs are cleaned using vibrating machines. In places longitudinal connection It is convenient to clean the surface of logs using an angle machine.
When processing wooden walls, vortex air currents of wood dust arise. Starting work without personal protective equipment is extremely dangerous. Wood dust can enter the lungs and cause injury to a person's eyes.
The top photo shows a clear violation of safety regulations. If the respiratory organs are protected by a gauze mask, then there are no safety glasses.
The owner of the home can choose any method of cleaning the walls from the wall sanding methods described above. It must be remembered that even the most powerful vacuum cleaner will not be able to completely cope with dust, so in any case the worker must be “armed” with all personal protective equipment.
The grinding process causes discomfort for many, even experienced specialists. After all, this is a monotonous, painstaking, noisy, but mandatory operation. Requirements to finishing works, which have been developed to date, are especially strict regarding the smoothness and evenness of the planes.
High-tech coatings with their thin layers will only emphasize the unevenness of the base. But even if thicker ones are used sheet materials, sealing joints always ends with grinding. To ensure a perfectly smooth base, the sanding machine for walls and ceilings must be selected accurately.
Grinding the ceiling and wall surfaces using a special tool can be done by both a professional builder and a home craftsman. From all the variety of tools, each one is the one that best meets the assigned tasks and scope of work.
There are three types of grinders:
- tape;
- surface grinding;
- eccentric.
Experienced craftsmen who specialize in grinding have all the listed grinders in their arsenal of tools. However, most of them are not needed for household work.
Draw machines
The tool got its name from the working element - an abrasive tape, the opposite ends of which are glued together, forming a ring. This sander for walls and ceilings allows you to remove a layer of several millimeters. Also, with the tool you can easily make a rounding, remove old varnish, stains left from contact of moisture with iron.
This wall sander works with polymers, wood, metal and even minerals. building materials. However, it has one advantage that easily turns into a disadvantage - high speed. Due to this feature, the surface being treated may become scratched. Only another sanding machine for walls and ceilings can correct the situation.
Vibration devices
A surface grinder or vibrating machine for sanding walls and ceilings is something between the first and third types of tools. It is ideal for those cases where it is necessary to carry out the final treatment of surfaces with zero curvature before they are treated with paints and other finishing materials.
The device has a large working surface, which makes it possible to use it in a room with a large area. The vibrating tool is quite popular, especially among home craftsmen.
There are several reasons for this:
- affordable price;
- equipment elements are easy to purchase;
- The geometric features of the sole make it possible to handle angles of any complexity.
The working part of the apparatus is a plate that performs reciprocating movements. In this case, the amplitude is insignificant. The engine installed in it has a power that ranges from 150-300 W. Although there are models whose power reaches 600 W.
A few more advantages:
- lightness and compactness;
- relatively low amplitude of the sole stroke, which allows for careful but effective grinding.
Sole vibrating machines there can be two options:
- standard;
- mini.
The first option is suitable for large rooms. However, if the area is small, it is better to give preference to mini-models.
The ideal sole is one made from an alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Cast options are also considered convenient to use.
A separate version of vibration machines are devices equipped with a platform that resembles an iron in its features. They differ small in size, but with excellent cross-country ability. These models are ideal for working with difficult surfaces.
Orbiters
Models that are in demand for high quality processing. The sanded material is carefully polished, leaving no scratches or other damage. Despite such delicacy, the performance of the tool is not inferior to vibrating models.
Vibratory grinders for walls and ceilings are most often used by car painters and carpenters. No one can compete with them in terms of processing volumetric, profile and curved objects. However, due to the peculiarities of their structure, vibration devices cannot cope with corners and small recesses.
A grinding machine is a tool that allows you to solve a large number of problems. It’s easy to choose the right one from a variety of devices, knowing the main characteristics of each of them.
In this article, we will learn how and what to sand walls, what tools and materials need to be used, and get acquainted with interesting nuances that we may encounter while working. The same operation is also called sanding the wall.
Why do you need to sand walls?
All the procedures that we did before: plaster, putty - these are all procedures for leveling the wall. Plastering is rough, puttying is fine. And now the process of sanding or polishing the walls begins.
Even after applying a thin layer of putty, in any case, small irregularities and tubercles remain on the wall, formed mainly by the sharp ends of the spatula, which remain when we disperse the putty and connect one part of the putty wall to another.
That is why when putting putty it is better to use a large spatula so that the area of leveling the wall is maximized. But the joints, no matter how hard we try, can still be traced. Therefore, after you have puttyed the wall, you need to let it dry (at least a day) and you can start sanding the walls.
IMPORTANT!
Don’t try to accidentally prime the wall after puttying! Sanding begins immediately after puttying!
What tools and materials are needed in order to sand the walls
So, let's look at what we need to have to start sanding the walls.
Usually used for sanding walls. sanding block OK:
In addition to the block, for grinding you need to have sandpaper or a sanding mesh, which is fixed into the block before starting work:
Sandpaper on the left in the picture, sanding mesh on the right.
What to consider when choosing a whetstone and grinding material (sandpaper, mesh)
Sanding mesh
The advantage of the sanding mesh is that it does not become clogged with putty dust during operation. The mesh itself is perforated and all sanded off putty will pass through the mesh. It must be replaced during normal wear and tear, which is determined by appearance used mesh. If the mesh is torn in places or you already feel that sanding is not as effective, replace the mesh with a new one.
Usually the mesh is sold in ready-made pieces directly to the size of the block and all you have to do is install it on the block and work. But, you need to remember that the size of the bars is also different, as shown in the picture. Therefore, when taking a mesh, immediately select a block to match its size. Mesh is more expensive than sandpaper.
Sandpaper
During operation, the sandpaper will become clogged with sanded off dust and the sandpaper will have to be changed more often than the mesh. You need to be aware that sandpaper, although cheaper than mesh, is also not a cheap material. It is sold completely various options: large rolls, small rollers, rectangular pieces.
If you decide to sand with sandpaper, then you need to figure out how you will cut it, taking into account the size of the block, so that there is as little waste as possible. You, of course, can refuse to cut the sandpaper and buy pre-cut pieces ready for bars, but this will be more expensive! There is a concept of sandpaper grit (paper with different grains).
In order not to blow your mind on this topic, buy paper with grain 60, 80 and 100 in the store. large quantities and try to work with her. There is no exact recommendation on what grain to take. But it’s better not to take less than 60 for sure, because it will be very rough sandpaper. More than 100 is also not very good, because it will become very clogged with dust during processing and will have to be changed very often.
IMPORTANT!
The walls that you will sand usually go on to either wallpapering or painting. In case of painting, the wall should be absolutely smooth, I would even say polished. In this case, the craftsmen sand the wall 2 times. The first time, for example, with 60-grit sandpaper, to remove obvious large frozen pieces of putty, and the second time, take even finer sandpaper, for example, with 120-grit sandpaper and polish the wall with it. But in the case of wallpaper, this is clearly a redundant operation. For wallpaper, just go over the wall once.
Catalog of grinding stones
Grinding process
The sanding process is much simpler than, for example, the process of puttying or plastering. All you need to do is take a block, attach a piece of sandpaper or sanding mesh to it using special clamps and start working. This is what the sanding blocks look like ready for use. On the left is a block with sandpaper installed, on the right - with a sanding mesh installed.
It can be seen from the figure that the size of a piece of sandpaper or mesh should be longer than the plane of the bar itself by exactly enough to be able to secure the sandpaper or mesh using the clamps of the bar on both sides.
IMPORTANT!
Remember, sanding walls is a very dusty job! Be sure to read the recommendations in the article before you start working.
When you have installed the abrasive material on the block and taken all protective measures against construction dust, you can start working. It is best to start sanding the wall from the corner and move towards the other corner. I always sand the walls from top to bottom in small strips (about a meter wide). We sanded a meter wide strip from top to bottom and moved on to the next one.
How to sand walls? Take the block in your hand and begin to move it along the putty wall with slight pressure. Movements: up-down, left-right. The main thing is to make sure that in the place where the wall is already smooth, you do not need to continue rubbing for a long time. You must remember that if you rub for a long time, you can thus wipe off all the putty, which, of course, is not included in the plans. We made sure that the section of the wall was smooth, almost polished, and moved on.
It happens that you come to a section of the wall where for some reason a deep hole has formed. In this case, you do not need to rub a lot and for a long time around the hole in order to wear off the putty around the hole to its bottom. Leave this small area alone. Then, when you have sanded everything and primed the wall again, you simply take the rubber putty knife that I mentioned in the article and once again fill this hole with a thin layer of putty flush with the wall.
IMPORTANT!
Of course, I must tell you that sanding walls can be done faster if you use.
When you've done everything, pick it up building level and attach it to the wall. In any position of the level, its plane should fit snugly against the wall along its entire length. There should be no gaps. If gaps do appear, it means you have put too much putty in some places. Identify these places and try to grind them down with the same block.
That's all. In this article, we learned how and with what to sand walls. However, do not rush to paint the wall or glue wallpaper. After sanding they remained. Have you had problems with sanding? How often did you change the sandpaper on the block?
The procedure for leveling walls involves a rough finish (plaster) and a fine finish (putty). When the surface is plastered, even with the most painstaking application, there are always small irregularities and sagging on it, which are formed from sharp corners spatula. These are consequences of the acceleration of the putty mass or the joining of two treated sections of the wall. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to use a large spatula to minimize the number of problem areas. And before you start polishing, the wall must dry thoroughly for at least a day. Hence the conclusion: the better the quality of work, the less hassle finishing will cause.
Sanding walls after puttying - This is a mechanical work that is carried out using dry, clean putty, without any primer!
Depending on the area and type of surface, a rational choice of what to sand the walls after puttying will help significantly save time and effort:
- if the surface is small, use dry sanding with a stone;
- for large areas it is better to use an electric surface grinder, but keep in mind that you will have to polish the corners manually;
- If the surface is both large and complex, with curves and protrusions, an orbital sander with decent power will work well.
What type of sanding block should it be? In addition to the base with a handle and clamps, you need to stock up on strips of sandpaper of the required grit or sanding mesh, since the abrasive constantly wears out and requires replacement. There is no universal advice on what to use: everyone chooses it at their own discretion. The paper or mesh is fixed into a beam, where it is held with special clamps.
The “advantage” of the sanding mesh is that its pores are not clogged with putty dust. Due to the holes, dust does not linger in it and falls off. True, it is somewhat more expensive than paper. The mesh must be replaced when its canvas is worn out - it is easy to see or feel that the work is not working efficiently. It is sold already cut to the size of the beams, so when purchasing, you should know what tool you are using.
Sandpaper is changed much more often than mesh, so in large quantities it will also cost a decent amount. It is sold in various configurations: rolls, sheets, etc. For economical consumption think about how it will be more profitable for you to cut it, given the size of your bar. You can buy already cut pieces, but it is unprofitable. When you're cutting mesh or paper, don't forget about the allowances on the bar for the clips!
It is difficult to correctly recommend grain size; it is easier to determine this experimentally. Sample 60, 80, 90, 100 grit pieces and try them on the wall. The lower the number, the coarser the sandpaper, and if the fraction is too fine, it will instantly fail.
Depending on the subsequent processing, the smoothness of the wall may be different. If it is to be painted, you will have to polish it twice, first with coarser sandpaper, say 60, which will remove obvious lumps from the surface, and then with finer paper or mesh, 100-120, to give it a perfect smoothness. If wallpaper is to be glued to the wall, one, rougher sanding will be enough.
Of course, having a grinding machine makes polishing walls much faster and easier. It is able to provide ideal surface quality and, most importantly, attracts dust. Many models have special ergonomic design holders, from which your hands do not get tired, and some sanders extend telescopically and allow you to work while standing on the floor, on a remote section of a wall or ceiling.
homemade tool
It is worth paying your attention to how to skin in hard to reach places: corners, joints, niches. With the help of a simple device you will make this part of the job easier for yourself.
Take a piece of any plastic, for example, L-shaped profile and cut it so as to get an even strip of plastic about 7cm wide. WITH reverse side Glue sandpaper onto double-sided tape and cut the strip of plastic into 17-20cm pieces. Trim the corners so that the grater resembles the shape of a pencil. You can even combine different grits on the same surface of your mini grater.
Now you have handy tool, which you can use in hard-to-reach places. Work with a corner, and as it wears, cut it off.
Dust protection
Remember that sanding is a dusty job and small particles will penetrate even through the cracks of doors and settle throughout the apartment. Therefore, before starting, it is better to spend a little more time on preparation than later on painfully getting rid of the all-pervading dust.
Stock up on special film to protect furniture (it costs a penny), and cover with it everything that cannot be taken out of the room, carefully securing it with tape. Plastic windows We cover it with film and seal it around the perimeter. We hang one damp towel on top of the door, plug the vertical gap with the second, and place the third under the threshold.
Be sure to wear a respiratory mask and goggles, and don’t forget to shake out your clothes before washing them.
How to sand walls after puttying
When the tool is ready, dust measures have been taken, you can start working. Lighting is an important part of it: turn on a spotlight or flashlight next to the wall and all the irregularities will become clearly visible to you. At this stage, it is useful to outline the work plan on the surface: bumps, depressions and other defects will create shadows from the light - outline them with a pencil. This will serve as a guide when you get started.
We start sanding from the corner and go down in a strip about a meter wide. Then we rise again and go down. We sand, pressing slightly on the putty, using spiral movements.
During the process, we look at the surface: if it is already quite smooth, we don’t get hung up and move on: excessive zeal can lead to holes in the putty.
If you started sanding with one number of mesh or paper, finish with that number.
If you suddenly notice a small depression or flaw, you don’t need to rub around it, trying to bring it level - here you also risk erasing the putty. Leave it alone, you will come back to it when the sanding is finished and the wall is primed. Using a rubber spatula, carefully putty this area flush with the wall.
How to check the perfectness of the surface when the work is finished? The first way is to direct the light from the lamp closely along the wall; the bright light will clearly highlight all the flaws. The second method is to apply a regular building level to the plane and move it, observing whether cracks form. If you notice gaps, it means that a little more putty was put somewhere. We correct the defect with a sanding block.
However, even at this stage it cannot be said that the work on preparing the wall is finished. After sanding, the entire surface remains covered with a layer of fine dust, which can cause great harm when wallpapering or painting. There are two ways to remove dust:
- We vacuum the wall with an old vacuum cleaner that we don’t mind;
- brush off excess dust with a soft bristle brush, then wring out the cloth well and wipe the wall. It is very important that the rags are just slightly damp, since gypsum-based putty is afraid of water and gets washed away. If you wipe the wall in several steps, then wait until it dries after the first time.
Speaking about how to rub down walls after puttying, it would be useful to remind you: putty is a very soft, pliable material, and therefore, working with it can be made pleasant by taking into account useful tips our article.
Wall preparation is the key to perfect cladding. Without eliminating the defects in the walls, your coating will not lie flat and you will have to redo everything. One of the preparation stages is grouting the walls after puttying. Without it, the walls will not become smooth and even, so you can’t skip it. We will look at how to do the work yourself below.
Some craftsmen claim that sanding walls is not a necessary process, but you should not trust such “specialists.”
Grinding may not be necessary only in two cases:
In other cases, it is better to grind it. The wallpaper will stick better and its edges will not peel off. Sanding for painting is a must. The paint does not hide flaws; they will be visible to the naked eye. Even if it seems to you that the walls are smooth, sanding will not be superfluous.
How to sand walls after puttying
Wall sanding is necessary for any renovation. Processing walls after putty can be done manually or mechanically. Let's consider both options.
First of all, you need to remember that sanding should be done immediately after applying the putty. You cannot prime the walls right away. Only after the sanding work has been completed. Otherwise, the surface will remain uneven and you will rub off the primer layer. 
The most common tool is a sanding block, or as it is popularly called, a manual skinner. It comes in two types: a standard tool with a handle or with special recesses for the arm. The cost of such a tool is about 300 rubles. 
You can also use a sanding sponge with a beveled side. It helps to treat corners and hard-to-reach places. The price will cost 100 rubles. 
Sandpaper or sanding mesh is the easiest option. The mesh takes much longer to become clogged with dust, which means it will last longer. But it's harder to find. Sandpaper costs little and is sold everywhere.
In addition to grinding tools, you will need others.
- Bright lamp. With its help you can identify wall defects. The shadows cast will indicate flaws. The lamp must be mobile so that it can be installed anywhere and moved back and forth;
- A stepladder or table to reach the top. It is more convenient to work on a table, since you can move around it freely, and the stepladder will have to be constantly rearranged;
- Protection. Sanding is a very messy process, so take care of special clothing. Wear goggles to protect your eyes. And to close the airways, use a respirator.
Wall grinding technology
Sanding the walls after puttying occurs in several stages. First, it is polished with a coarse-grained sandpaper, and then with a fine-grained one. For the draft layer, paper with a grain size of P100-P120 is suitable. A coarser one should not be used, as it can ruin the coating. The finishing layer can be sanded with P150 grit paper for a smooth wall. 
If there are still many defects left, then use P120. The final grouting is done using sandpaper number P220. If it leaves marks, then use P240.
Before you start sanding, you need to let the putty dry completely. The process sometimes takes several days. Detailed instructions manufacturers indicate on the packaging. Dried putty changes its color, there are no wet spots on it. 
Protect your face and body. Put on goggles, a respirator and a hat. The process is very dusty, so you can cover the floor with a film. It is better to close the door too, and seal the gap with foam rubber.
Set the lighting, it is better to have several light sources to illuminate the surface from different angles. Too large flaws can be removed with a spatula, such as bumps and protrusions. Cut off all their flaws. Hold the spatula at an angle and apply a little pressure to the desired area.
Sanding gypsum board sheets greatly simplifies the process. You only need to wipe the places at the joints, since the drywall is not completely puttied. Try not to touch the surface of the sheet with sandpaper, otherwise the surface of the material may be damaged.
When you go shopping, it is best to take several grit options for emery. Don’t sand a large area right away; first try going over an inconspicuous area and see if it leaves any scratches. If there are any, then it is better to take a tool with a higher number. Depending on the facing coating, the grain size is also selected. So under the wallpaper small scratches not scary. But painting requires smoothness. 
How to sand walls after puttying. The skin is attached to a manual skinner and secured with clamps. After this, you can start grouting. Work must begin from the top, gradually moving towards the bottom. The skin should be moved in circular, smooth movements, not sharp ones.
Work on a small area, and after grouting, move on to the next one. During the process, you do not need to press hard on the beam; apply pressure with little force. When rubbing the area, do not overdo it, as this can erase much more than necessary. The lighting should fall exactly on the area that you are rubbing.
If you are performing this type of work for the first time, then first try it on a small, inconspicuous area.
If you managed to do everything right, then move on. If you find large depressions, there is no need to sand them. After finishing, they will need to be puttied again. When the main surface is ready, work is done in the corners. To do this, use a special sponge. First, process one corner from top to bottom, and then the second. There is no need to rub both at the same time. 
After processing the rough layer, check the wall with a lamp. At this stage, minor defects are allowed. They will subsequently disappear. After sanding the first layer, wipe the surface with a damp cloth. After this, a finishing layer of putty is applied. Wait for it to dry and get to work again. The finishing layer is rubbed down more carefully and carefully, since it is this layer that plays a role in how smoothly the facing coating will lie. 
First you need to go through with a spatula and cut off all the protruding tubercles. The paper grain selection is now playing important role. Therefore, buy several types in the store and try them on small areas, the result that you like the most will allow you to choose the right tool.
Take care of the lighting. Lamps should illuminate the area from several sides for a better result. After grouting the main surface, begin working on hard-to-reach areas. If the block does not fit, then you can simply wrap the sandpaper around your finger and work that way. 
When finished, check the wall again. If there are still any flaws left somewhere, fill them with putty and then rub them again. Then wet clean again and start priming.
Besides manual method There is also a mechanical one. It is performed using a grinding machine. This way the work can be completed much faster and its quality will be noticeably better. The machine is quite heavy, but the entire process can be completed in one go.
Grinding mechanically also done in a circular motion. There is no need to press hard on the tool. Once you have gone over the entire wall, look at the result and, if necessary, repeat the process in the desired areas. In hard-to-reach places, it is recommended to use the manual method.
