A perennial plant that is well suited to a variety of decorative plantings- delphinium. Growing hybrid forms is quite common in floriculture, although there are also beautiful wild species. Delphinium has powerful bushes about two meters high. The leaves are palpator-shaped, large. Flowers of various colors (white, purple, etc.) reach a diameter of 5 cm. The flowers are collected in an inflorescence - a raceme. This is what makes up the beauty of the delphinium. The brushes are long, thick, lush. Their length can reach 60-120 cm. Flowers bloom from bottom to top. If you remove faded shoots in a timely manner, then in some forms favorable conditions New inflorescences develop and the decorative effect remains until the beginning of September. After flowering, the decorative effect is lost.
Growing delphinium from seeds
To prevent delphinium seeds from losing their viability, it is recommended to keep them in the refrigerator at a temperature of plus five degrees in a sealed glass container. Since seedlings are susceptible to various diseases, before sowing the substrate must be disinfected with a 3-5% formaldehyde solution, and the seeds must be treated with a fungicide or 0.1 percent (place in gauze bags in the solution for ten minutes). Sowing of seeds is done in different conditions. They are sown in a furrow before winter, when stable frosts set in. The soil is prepared in advance. The seeds are covered with humus on top, which is stored in a dark room until sowing. Sometimes seeds are sown directly into the ground in the spring (April, May). Dense seedlings are thinned out (10 to 10) when the seedlings have several true leaves. Excess plants are transferred to the ridges, protecting them from the sun with shields at first. But guaranteed production of seedlings can be achieved when working in a greenhouse, room, or greenhouse. The best time for sowing seeds is March. In this case, the delphinium blooms in August.
Substrates:
Humus: sand: turf soil (2/1/1);
Leaf (peat soil): river sand: (2/1/1).
How to grow delphinium from seeds
It turned out that amateurs often have unsuccessful sowings. Indeed, sowing and growing delphinium from seeds requires compliance with mandatory details. Below is a detailed technique that will ensure high-quality cultivation of delphinium from seeds and production of seedlings, developed by delphinium culture specialist N.I. Malyutin. The prepared substrate must be sifted. The soil in the boxes, especially at the side walls, is well compacted and watered abundantly. Dry soil is added on top, after which the surface must be carefully leveled with a ruler. Otherwise, water will flow into the depressions, which can lead to uneven seedlings and even rotting. Sow randomly at the rate of 1-2 seeds per 1 cm². When planting, seeds should be lightly pressed into the ground with a tamper. Then carefully water it and cover it with a layer of about 3 mm of soil, sifting it through a fine sieve. Failures during sowing are associated with deep seeding. If the seeds are slightly exposed after watering, they can be lightly sprinkled with soil. To protect the substrate from drying out, the boxes are covered with paper. After germination (about 10 days at a temperature of 15 - 16°C), the paper is removed and the boxes are placed closer to the light. It is necessary to ensure uniform moisture of the soil. Lack of moisture manifests itself in the form of dark green coloring of leaves and cotyledons, which are usually light. If, when watering, the water does not penetrate to the bottom of the boxes, they should be placed briefly in iron pans filled with water. Then the moisture will flow to the roots, leaving the surface of the earth dry, and the seedlings will not suffer from the “black leg”. If delphinium is grown from seeds using the above method, the first leaves appear within 4-6 weeks. Seedlings dive into the nursery at a distance of about 4 cm. It is important to consider that delphinium seeds with dark-colored flowers take longer to germinate than those with light flowers. Therefore, there is no need to postpone picking when sowing varieties with light flowers. When picking seedlings, you must be careful not to cover the growing point with soil. Deep planting is undesirable. After transplantation, the seedlings need to be watered warm water and place in a shaded place for 5-6 days, and then give full light. Plants are ready for planting in the main soil by May.
Delphinium, or as it is also called, “larkspur”, is a genus herbaceous plants from the buttercup family, represented by 450 species of annual and perennial plants. A group of annuals of 40 varieties is often classified as a related genus and called sokirks. The main distribution is observed in the Celestial Empire (today about 150 species of delphinium grow there), as well as in the regions of tropical Africa and the highlands of both hemispheres.
The name is explained by the characteristic shape when unopened, which strongly resembles the head of a dolphin. In addition, some botanists believe that the plant is named after the ancient Greek city of Delphi, in which, as sources say, a colossal number of plants was concentrated. In any case, planting a delphinium can be very in a good way decorating the garden area, so every gardener is ready to give a lot just to see such a colorful “green friend” on his plot.
Perennial flowers can easily withstand any climate change, including drought and extremely low temperatures. Amazing appearance presented terry buds interesting shapes and shades, will always decorate landscape design your garden and make it presentable. Due to the incredibly diverse color range, the perennial fits perfectly into any shade.
Of particular value are the blue tones, which an impressive majority of varieties have. Delphinium blooms twice a year, which allows you to enjoy its beauty twice as much. When asking the question of growing delphinium from seeds, you need to understand that such an activity does not require much effort, so even a novice gardener will be able to grow a colorful ornamental plant without much difficulty.
Gallery: delphinium (25 photos)
Varieties of delphiniums
As mentioned above, in nature there are two groups of delphiniums:
- perennial;
- annuals;
If we consider annuals, they are popular due to the varieties of delphinium field and delphinium Ajax.
Field delphinium is a luxurious tall plant that can grow up to two meters in height and has the most extraordinary appearance. Single or double flowers come in a variety of colors, including:
- pink;
- white;
- lilac;
- blue;
The plant appeared in floriculture culture back in 1572. Particular demand from flower growers is directed towards varieties Frosted Sky, Qis Rose and Qis Dark Blue. Delphinium blooms begin in the first days of summer and continue until autumn.
Delphinium Ajax is a hybrid variety of plant, which was the result of selection of the Doubtful and Eastern species, incorporating them best properties. The plant grows from 40 to 1 meter in height. It has almost sessile, strongly dissected leaves, spike-shaped inflorescences and a wide variety of shades, including purple, red, blue, pink and white. Some varieties received densely double flowers.
Perennial delphinium
Growing delphinium from seeds at home from the group of perennials began a little later - in the 19th century. As a result of the hard work of breeders, the first hybrids were created, including the varieties Barlow, Beautiful and Belladonna. After some time, the French breeder Victor Lemoine introduced double varieties of perennials, which were classified as a separate category “hybrid”, and soon “cultivated”.
Currently, perennial delphiniums can have a wide variety of shades. The total number reaches 800 shades. Among them there are tall, medium-tall and low-growing varieties with simple, semi-double, double and super-double flowers, ranging in size from two to 9 centimeters.
As for hybrid perennials, they can be divided into several groups according to their place of origin. Particularly popular are Scottish hybrids, New Zealand and Marfin, named after the Marfino state farm. Representatives of each group are characterized by their unique differences and properties. For example, Marfinsky perennials are characterized by their frost-resistant nature and weight decorative properties. They have very beautiful semi-double inflorescences with brightly expressed eyes. However, planting and growing such a perennial is a very difficult task, so not every gardener is ready to sow the variety on his plot.
Representatives of the New Zealand group were created relatively recently. They are distinguished by their tall stem growth, which often reaches two meters, as well as the presence of semi-double or double flowers with a diameter of 7 to 9 centimeters. Some varieties have ruffled flowers. Hybrids are considered frost-resistant and resistant to various diseases. They are also excellent for long-term cultivation and last a long time when cut. Due to these advantages, many gardeners prefer New Zealand delphiniums.
A striking representative of Scottish hybrid perennials is the Tony Coakley variety. Hybrids are characterized by dense inflorescences, double and super-double flowers, which can have up to 58 petals. The inflorescence can grow up to 80 centimeters in length with a height of 1.1-1-5 meters. The Scots are famous for their wide color palette and unpretentiousness to the conditions of detention. They are also durable.
How to grow delphinium from seeds
The process of growing delphinium at home can be divided into several stages:
- disinfection of planting material (seeds);
- soil preparation;
- sowing seeds;
Before planting seeds, they must be pre-treated with a manganese solution. To do this, you need to take the finished product and tie it in a gauze bag, lowering it for 20 minutes in the prepared, deep pink solution.
In addition to traditional potassium permanganate, they have proven themselves well fungicidal preparations, which can be prepared based on ready-made instructions. After steeping, remove the bag from the solution and rinse it clean water, soaking the seeds in a solution of elin in the ratio of a few drops per 100 ml of water. Finally, dry the seeds to prevent them from sticking together.
As for soil preparation, at this stage you need to take an equal amount of peat, garden soil and compost, add half the amount of washed sand to them and sift. To increase the moisture capacity and looseness of the soil, you can add perlite to the composition at a concentration of 0.5 cups per 5 liters of soil mixture. Try heating the mixture in a water bath to neutralize all weeds and fungal growths. Also be sure to fill your planting containers and seal them.
As for planting, at this stage you need to distribute the seeds evenly over the surface, attaching labels with the name of the variety and the date of sowing. Don't forget to sprinkle planting material A 3 mm layer of soil mixture so that they do not float up during the first watering. Also compact upper layer plastic film or by package. Carefully water the crops by spraying the surface with cold, pre-boiled water. Close the container with a transparent lid or other covering material, which is necessary for more productive germination.
The optimal temperature for rapid germination of crops varies between 10-15 degrees Celsius. For the procedure to be completed successfully, after 3-4 days, move the container to the refrigerator or glass balcony. Don't be afraid if the temperature drops below -5 degrees Celsius.
Features of planting perennials: growing from seedlings
It is not difficult to understand that the sowing was correct. Healthy sprouts are represented by dark green, strong leaves with a characteristic point. If 2-3 leaves appear on the stems, you can carry out the procedure of diving into pots with a volume of 200-300 milliliters with further growing at a temperature around 20 degrees Celsius. It is important that the soil is sufficiently loose and breathable, and that the watering intensity is moderate. Otherwise, the risk of the formation of the so-called “black leg” increases, which can cause the death of the plant.
Start accustoming the seedlings to fresh air from the beginning of May, without removing them from the windowsill during seasonal ventilation. Also provide her with short sunbathing, by placing the pot under the influence of bright sunlight. Before planting, seedlings are fertilized twice with a two-week pause. Agricola or Mortar can be used as a top dressing. It is important that during processing it does not fall on the sheet plates. As for planting ready-mature seedlings in open ground, then such a procedure can be carried out only when the lump of earth in a container with seedlings is completely entwined with a well-developed root system. By the way, the seedlings are very quickly removed along with the earthen lump without harm to the rhizome.
When to plant perennial delphinium
Planting seedlings in open ground is carried out under one condition: if the threat of frost has passed. Sunny areas where there is no stagnant moisture are chosen as a place for growing. When wondering: how to grow perennial delphinium, you need to dig holes with a diameter of 40 centimeters at a distance of 60-70 centimeters from each other, and fill them with compost, complex fertilizer and ash in the ratio of half a bucket of humus, two tbsp. spoons of fertilizer and a glass of ash.
The finished mixture must be thoroughly mixed with the earthen lump so that it does not get on the root. Having made a characteristic depression, you can begin to place the seedling in it. At the same time, the soil around is compacted and the beds are watered. At first it is advisable to cover the seedling plastic bottle or a glass jar until it takes root. As soon as the delphinium begins to grow, the shelter is removed.
Features of delphinium care
Growing delphinium at home is very simple. When the shoots become strong enough and grow to 10-15 centimeters, they should be fed with a solution of cow manure and water in the proportion of a bucket of manure to 10 buckets of water. This composition can be used for 5 large delphinium bushes. After carrying out the procedures for clearing the beds of weeds and mandatory loosening of the soil, the top layers should be covered with mulch based on a three-centimeter layer of humus or peat.
Thinning of the bushes will become necessary when the stem reaches 20-30 centimeters in height. You need to leave about 3-5 young stems in the bush, which will make it possible to grow beautiful and huge inflorescences. You need to remove weak shoots from the inside of the bush, breaking off or cutting them off near the ground. Such measures will protect the plant from the development of dangerous diseases and ensure productive air circulation. Cuttings can be rooted.
The cut is treated with a mixture based on charcoal and crushed heteroauxin tablets, and then pinned in a mixture of sand and peat and covered with film. When 3-6 weeks have passed, the cuttings will give roots. After another 2-3 weeks it can be transplanted into open ground. That's all, planting delphinium cuttings has been successfully completed.
If the plant grows to 40-50 centimeters in height, you need to dig three support slats up to 1.8 meters high near each bush. The stems will need to be tied to them with ribbons or fabric strips, which will avoid cutting into the stems when exposed to strong winds. The next tying is carried out at a height of 100-120 centimeters.
Throughout the growing season, a flower can absorb up to 60 liters of water, so during dry summers it is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water under each bush weekly. By following these recommendations, you can protect the plant from various consequences and make it lush, beautiful and healthy.
Attention, TODAY only!
Among garden plants There is a small group of flowers that are considered both “difficult” and unpretentious. These include delphiniums. Old simple varieties grow without problems in every garden, but modern chic delphiniums do not lend themselves to everyone. The difference between these flowers is the same as between a rose hip and a noble rose. Elite delphiniums have a dense, tall spike, large double flowers, unusually bright or two-tone colors. How to grow such varieties? In this article we have summarized the experience of many gardeners, including New Zealand delphinium breeder Terry Dowdeswell.
There are several ways to grow delphiniums.
1. Buy seedlings of elite varieties in a nursery or store. New Zealand and English delphiniums in containers have appeared on sale. The cost of these seedlings is quite high, but they have a 100% survival rate and a quality guarantee.
2. Propagate the variety you like from neighbors or friends. Young shoots (8-10 cm) that appear in the spring are used.
3. Divide a mature bush. It is necessary to divide delphiniums, since bushes older than 4 years bloom and winter worse.
4. Grow delphinium from seeds. New Zealand and English seeds cannot be called cheap, but compared to seedlings in containers, the seeds are inexpensive. But it's not all about the price. Often the seeds do not germinate, or the seedlings die from blackleg. How to get them to bloom?
DO DELPHINIUM SEEDS NOT GROW?
Seed germination depends on the timing and storage conditions. At room temperature delphiniums quickly lose their viability. The same temperature can be in the store. Therefore, when purchasing, look not for the expiration date, but for the date of collection or packaging of the seeds. It is best to buy delphiniums in the fall, then you can purchase seeds from this year of collection.
Immediately after purchasing, delphinium seeds should be placed in the refrigerator and stored there until sowing.
IS STRATIFICATION NEEDED?
Many gardeners believe that if the seeds were stored in the refrigerator, this is stratification. But this is far from true. When sowing seeds from a refrigerator, germination rates vary greatly. Fresh seeds that have been stored correctly will germinate without stratification (under normal room conditions).
If the seeds have lain for more than a year, then special conditions are needed to awaken them.
Different gardeners use different methods, and at first glance completely opposite!
1 METHOD THERMAL. Old seeds in gauze are dipped in a strong hot water(like tea), and after 35 seconds into the cold. The procedure is repeated 5 times. After this, the seeds are sown.
2 METHOD. The soil in the bowl is spilled hot water and the seeds are sown in the warm soil. The bowl is placed on the radiator, with a newspaper or towel folded in several layers underneath it. After 35 days, the crops are harvested on the windowsill, closer to the cold glass.
METHOD 3 - COLD STRATIFICATION. The seeds are sown in bowls, covered with a bag and placed in the refrigerator for two to three weeks. Periodically check to see if shoots have appeared. As soon as the first seeds hatch, immediately into the light!
In all three cases, exposure to a sharp change in temperature is used, but cold stratification is used most often. But there is no need to freeze the seeds. At negative temperatures a change in varietal characteristics occurs. The color of flowers often changes and the fullness disappears. Freezing or winter sowing is used only for “ordinary” delphiniums, which do not have super-elite qualities.
NOT EVERYTHING IS LOST!
How to understand whether seeds will germinate without stratification or not? Alexey Malyshev from Nizhny Novgorod has developed his own method of sowing. It is very suitable for New Zealand delphiniums, of which there are 3-5 pieces in a bag. Every seed counts, so you need to watch them carefully! In essence, this is a double stratification.
First stage. Soak the seeds. In a plastic jar food products make drain holes. Place a wet napkin and seeds on the bottom. Place a damp cloth on top too. Cover the jar plastic cover or by package.
It is useful to use melt water to soak seeds. It is known to have a stimulating effect.
First, for 7-10 days, the seeds stand at room temperature (18-25C). Under such conditions, the seeds in the napkin can germinate. This means that we have found some fresh ones and can sow them. But if the seeds do not germinate, all is not lost!
Let's proceed to the second stage. Place the swollen seeds in the same jar on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. After 23 weeks, the seeds begin to hatch!
The process is uneven; every day (or even twice) you need to inspect the seedlings. As soon as we see a new sprouted seed, we immediately take it out of the jar and sow it. For sowing delphinium, it is convenient to use cassettes with 5x5 cm cells: one seed in each cell.
The literature recommends different soil mixtures. Alexey Malyshev sows in ordinary purchased soil ( good quality) for growing seedlings.
Sow sprouted seeds carefully, for example, using a toothpick. Do not deepen it too much, no more than 5 mm.
IMPORTANT CONDITIONS - TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT
After the seeds have sprouted, the crops should be kept in a cool, bright place. Optimal mode 17-18 degrees. This temperature can be achieved on an insulated loggia. IN as a last resort place the bowl closer to the glass.
At all, good lighting one of the ways to prevent blackleg. If you want beautiful delphiniums, buy a lamp!
You will also need additional lighting if you cannot provide cool conditions. The higher the air temperature, the more illumination is needed.
Another important condition air humidity. While the plants are small, the bowl with the crops should be kept covered with a bag or a transparent lid. There should be condensation underneath. But do not allow excess moisture! Otherwise, the black leg threatens again. Every day the crops must be ventilated by opening the bag for 10-15 minutes.
ADVICE FROM TERRY DOWDESWELL
Where have you seen picky handsome men? This is such a rarity both in the world of people and in the world of plants. The delphinium that will be discussed is one of the most capricious flowers. But he is forgiven a lot for his beauty. Dreaming of having this miracle on their site, summer residents make every effort to breed delphiniums: growing this plant from seeds is difficult, so the most patient and stubborn ones achieve positive results.
Thanks to such enthusiasts, we have the opportunity to publish the basic principles of the technology for growing delphinium seeds. The instructions are detailed, but you need to follow them, making your own adjustments: after all, everyone has their own approach to plants. And differences in soils, weather conditions and temperature conditions must be taken into account. Most amateur flower growers believe that the most comfortable conditions for storing seeds are a consistently warm temperature (maybe below the so-called room temperature, but always positive), “breathable” packaging and a dark place. But delphinium completely breaks the usual stereotypes. In order to be guaranteed to grow delphinium seeds, they need to be frozen - literally. Paradoxically, at sub-zero temperatures (optimal - minus 150), the seeds of this plant retain the ability to germinate for up to 15 years. If planting material is kept warm, it will remain usable for no more than 11 months. Seeds stored in a hermetically sealed aluminum foil bag retain their ability to reproduce a little longer. Typically, all specialized gardening stores sell these. When choosing a product, be sure to study the expiration date and inquire about the period of collection and packaging of seeds so that you know how high-quality the material you are purchasing is. ATTENTION! Most seed companies define the optimal shelf life of seed for perennials as three years. The most reliable seeds are those grown with your own hands. Owners of suburban areas have been convinced of this more than once. For growing delphinium with seeds, this is extremely relevant, since in the case of personally providing the flowerbed with bright vegetation, the owner is confident in the shelf life, the degree of germination, and the quality of the seeds. For proper storage, the collected seeds should be placed in clean and dry glass jars and left in a fairly cool place: a refrigerator or an unheated balcony is ideal for this. To obtain “seedling” delphiniums, growing from seeds becomes the first and rather difficult step on the path to a beautiful flower. There is simply no general recipe for 100% germination, obtaining high-quality seedlings and their lush flowering in the future, but there are general recommendations that can help you avoid diseases and injuries that are dangerous for young “dolphins.” Sowing seeds for seedlings should begin in early spring. Actually, this period is designated by nature itself for the growth and development of plants. But since delphinium is a prince of the north and needs some time to thaw, the seeds of this plant will begin to grow much more actively in late March - early April. The container that you assign to the responsible role of the first “home” of small delphiniums can be varied, but must correspond to the number of seedlings. If the number of seeds is limited, they will fit perfectly in small pots with a diameter of 13-15 cm. If you are preparing seedlings for a flowerbed of impressive size, growing delphiniums from seeds should begin in spacious boxes. The required height of the soil layer in the container is about 10 cm; if there is not enough substrate or the container is too cramped, the seedlings will be lethargic, depressed and will develop poorly. Buying ready-made store-bought soil in the case of delphiniums is obviously a losing proposition. This plant does not tolerate too peaty and acidic soils; it needs a balance that only a gardener can create - with his own hands. There is no difficulty in preparing the correct substrate: All components must be taken in equal parts. If there is no black soil in your latitudes, then, as an exception, you can use the same peat that delphinium does not like, but in minimal quantities. Let us explain why growing delphinium from seeds does not work with an “overdose” of peat: when there is too much of it in the soil, then at the slightest drying, the peat “in company” with humus forms a thick, impenetrable hard crust, in which it is practically impossible for young seedlings to survive. ATTENTION! Almost all substrates sold in retail outlets have a high proportion of peat. Therefore, they are undesirable when growing delphinium from seeds. After the “bed” in the container is ready, the soil needs to be watered – this will help the seeds to “adhere” to the soil better and more firmly. Since delphiniums are grown from very small and dark seeds, when sowing you can simply lose orientation and sow one area too thickly and another too thinly. To avoid such an annoying oversight, do the simplest thing: before planting the seeds, sprinkle the soil in the container with white river sand. Against its background, dark seeds will stand out very clearly and you will not be mistaken in the planting density. According to special calculations, the optimal sowing density should be two seeds per square centimeter. Delphinium emphasizes its paradox in everything: the denser the seeds are planted, the higher the percentage of germination. This feature is completely unusual for other flowers - they develop much better with some freedom of growth and space. But the delphinium is not like everyone else, it is comfortable in the close company of its fellows, and without it it does not grow well. When the seeds are in the soil at the required density, they must be sprinkled with substrate on top. This layer should not exceed 2-3 mm, otherwise the growth of delphinium seedlings will be greatly delayed, or they will not sprout at all. Germination of unsprinkled delphinium seeds also occurs extremely slowly. One more watering and the containers can be covered. Old newspapers or burlap are suitable as a bedspread, but on top of them you need another layer of non-woven material (agril, for example). Again, we emphasize that delphiniums are cold-loving plants. Born in temperate latitudes, they cannot tolerate heat and do not grow in excessively heated areas. For this plant - excessively, which means above fifteen degrees Celsius. Delphiniums begin to germinate already at +8, and the temperature limits necessary for the development of seedlings are indicated within 10-16 degrees plus. When the temperature in the room with the seedlings rises slightly above twenty, the seedlings become lethargic and almost lifeless. If all sowing rules are followed and the temperature is within luxury limits for delphinium, you can notice seedlings already on the 8-10th day. Delphiniums, growing from seeds which is a very troublesome process, at the seedling stage should have an elastic and strong appearance and a pleasant dark green color. You can wait for shoots for three weeks, and if they do not appear during this period, it means that a technological error occurred during sowing or the seeds turned out to be of poor quality. When the first shoots appear, remove the covering from the containers - now the seedlings need air, and be sure to monitor the moisture level in the box. The soil should not be too dry, as it will be problematic for delphiniums to grow, but it should not be too wet, as the seedlings can be destroyed by the “black leg”. As for watering, here too the delphinium requires special rules: no stream from above! Such watering destroys young sprouts, after which they fall and can no longer rise. Therefore - only in the pallet! The gentle method of watering protects the seedlings, guarantees the required percentage of soil moisture and prevents cracks and bald spots in the substrate. This is truly a decoration of the garden and a source of pride for the owner: two-meter giants with ears of white, purple, pink, light blue, blue. And to have something to be proud of, you need to make a huge effort. But that’s not even the point: there is not enough patience, and care when caring for perennial delphinium when grown from seeds is not the same. And for annuals too.
Rules for storing seeds at home
Sowing seedlings
Period
Container
Substrate
Disembarkation process
Temperature "lux"
Care of seedlings in the first days
Delphinium: “portrait” of a plant
I am glad to welcome you, dear admirers, as well as readers of my blog! If you were looking forward to the new release, it means that my efforts were not in vain, and I am very happy about that. Today we will continue our acquaintance with our beautiful companions – flowers. Every year I try to plant something new in my flower garden, but I don’t forget about my old favorites - they always show off in a good place. comfortable place. Among the abundance of flowers, they certainly reach for the sun and magnificent inflorescences, the length of which often reaches half a meter. I'm sure you guessed it - this is a delphinium, the cultivation of which from seeds often baffles novice gardeners. Have you tried this before? not an easy process, and everything ended in failure? Now you can safely purchase seeds, I will be happy to share all the secrets that will certainly help you cope with the cultivation of this beauty!
The family of delphiniums, these gorgeous and unusual flowers, is huge and has almost half a thousand species. The plant’s homeland is warm China, but it can often be found in the tropics of Africa.
Where did this come from? unusual name? It is believed that it was the ancient city of Delphi that was famous for the abundance of these flowers; every courtyard was literally strewn with bright lush arrows of various colors. Another version is that the flowers are very reminiscent of the bodies of dolphins. Of course, I don’t see anything from fish here, but you already know that my imagination is a little lame.
Depending on the variety and species, delphinium can be either annual or perennial. Almost every year, breeders delight us with wonderful new products; quite recently, varieties have appeared whose inflorescences grow up to a meter high! Can you imagine such beauty? In some flowers, the number of petals is also amazing - there are almost a hundred of them. I will share with you my dream - be sure to purchase at least a few seeds and try to grow such a miracle in your flower garden.
The first stage in growing delphinium
The easiest way to decorate a flower garden with delphinium is to purchase seeds and grow seedlings. Don't think that the process is very easy, sometimes even experienced flower growers they make a mistake and all their efforts end in failure. Don’t worry, since I’ve been growing young plants myself for several years now, my experience will certainly help you avoid trouble.
I want to warn you right away - the seeds, even if you purchased them in a store, should be kept in the refrigerator, otherwise they will quickly lose their similarity. My friends often ask me when to plant delphinium. If you also don’t know the answer to this question, I advise you not to delay and start the exciting process in February.
Before planting, soak the seeds in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. It is convenient to do this by placing the planting material in a gauze bundle. After soaking (for half an hour), rinse the seeds thoroughly under running cool water and treat with Epin. Only after this dry them a little and start planting.
The soil in which delphinium seedlings will grow must be loose and well-permeable to moisture and fresh air. You can mix it yourself:
- 4 handfuls of peat crumbs;
- 4 handfuls of compost;
- 5 handfuls of garden soil;
- 2 handfuls of sand;
- 1 handful of perlite.
If you prepare the substrate yourself, be sure to disinfect it. Some gardeners pour boiling water over the soil mixture and then dry it, while others calcine the soil over a fire. I do it simpler - keep it over boiling water for an hour.
Place the seeds evenly over the surface of the substrate and sprinkle with a thin layer of soil. Do not water the first time from a watering can, so as not to wash out the planting material; it is better to spray the soil. Be sure to cover the container in which the seedlings will grow with thick polyethylene.
Stage two - proper care of seedlings
Now I will tell you what you will need so that in a few weeks you will be pleased with tiny sprouts. Immediately after sowing the seeds, place the container on a cool windowsill, where the temperature does not rise above 12-14 degrees. After 3-5 days, place the container in the refrigerator (if possible, for cold balcony). Don't worry, it won't harm the seeds, on the contrary - vibrations temperature regime will speed up germination. I want to warn you - if you are growing a New Zealand variety of delphinium, it is better not to put it in the refrigerator; let it sit on the windowsill until it germinates.
After keeping the containers in the cold for at least two weeks, return them to the windowsill and check daily to see if sprouts have appeared. After this, remove the greenhouse and care for it as you would for other types of seedlings - moisten frequently and turn different sides towards sun rays, this will help avoid bending and stretching of young plants.
When the delphinium grows to 6 leaves, you can move the bushes into separate containers.
Relocation of a young delphinium to a flower garden and basic rules of care
I do not advise you to go to the flower garden before the frosts have completely gone. Only after this can you transplant seedlings grown at home into open ground.
Prepare the holes in advance (up to half a meter deep). Send to each:
- 5 liters of compost;
- a glass of wood ash;
- a handful of complex fertilizer.
Mix the nutritional components with the soil, and only then plant the young delphinium. It takes a very long time for a plant to take root in a new place and it is not easy, so protect it with a cut plastic container. Only after young leaves begin to appear can you remove the cover.
When the bushes grow to half a meter, weed and lay a thick layer of mulch. I advise you to thoroughly water each plant and fertilize it first. What to use as fertilizer? Better than organic – half a bucket of mullein per 5 buckets of water. Of course, if you only have a few bushes, reduce the proportions by half.
Immediately after fertilizing, thin out. Why do this? If you leave a lot of stems, your delphinium will resemble a panicle with small inflorescences. You need to leave up to 4 shoots so that the inflorescences are lush and large.
Tall varieties of delphinium will need support - strong gusts of wind can damage the plant. If the bush has grown very large, then a few supports will not hurt - this way you will certainly protect your pet from difficult conditions.
Finally, I want to tell you about watering. Believe it or not, in extreme heat each delphinium bush can drink up to 2 buckets of water, so do not skimp on moisture if the weather is hot and dry. Good regular moisture will help the plant produce a long shoot with numerous flowers. After watering, loosen the plant - the penetration of fresh air to the roots also promotes abundant flowering.
As you can see for yourself, growing delphinium is quite difficult. I hope my tips will help you easily deal with capricious bushes. Don’t forget about your friends - if it’s not too much trouble, share an interesting blog post on social networks. I can’t resist giving the last useful piece of advice for today - subscribe to daily news, and always be the first to know what exciting things await you on the pages. All the best, friends!
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