Astilba planting and care in the open field, types and varieties of photos with the names of propagation by cuttings. We choose a comfortable place for the flower. The basics of correct transplantation

Reproduction of astilba is a topic that is relevant for many gardeners. Having planted one variety of herbaceous perennial on the site, you will definitely want to get a few more different bushes.

There are few options to achieve the goal:

• buy a root in the store;
• ask a neighbor for a delenka;
• experiment with perennial seeds.

This is an exhaustive list of astilba propagation methods. Let's dwell on them in more detail.

Reproduction by seeds

This option is the most controversial and problematic. Firstly, not all hereditary hybrids adopt the maternal characteristics of the plant. Secondly, the germination of the seeds of the plant is incredibly low (± 70%), as manufacturers directly indicate on the packages.

Nevertheless, possible difficulties not only do not stop individual gardeners, but also provoke them: will it be possible to get seedlings? How to increase the percentage of germination of culture?

Self-sowing

Astilbe - herbaceous plant, the ground part of which dies off for the winter in order to build up a new vegetative mass in the spring. Some gardeners do not cut faded panicles, creating a natural shelter for the rhizome to avoid freezing.

The best self-seeding results are seen where there is no demand garden tools

At early varieties astilbes have time to start, ripen and sift numerous seeds into the ground. During the winter, they undergo stratification and in late spring (or even early summer) they give miniature, one might say stunted shoots. Germination statistics are modest. If we consider that up to 20 thousand seeds can be in 1 g of dry inflorescence, no more than 3-7 are viable. Why is that?

Practice shows that often the reason for the lack of seedlings is not a plant, but gardeners. Reasons for failure:

1. Millimetric sprouts hatched in spring (early summer) are in complete darkness due to the abundant foliage of the perennial parent. Weak astilbes die without having time to develop a vegetative mass.
   The way out is that the seedlings found under the bushes dive into a pot or free up part of the space, thinning out the parent “under the crown”.
2. Miniature young shoots are destroyed along with weeds during the spring weeding.

Everyone remembers that astilbes develop incredibly slowly, but no one attaches importance to this fact. And in vain. Seedlings will form a small (visible to the naked eye) bush no earlier than mid-summer or closer to autumn.

Conclusion! Astilba self-sowing is not a rare phenomenon. Getting 1-2 seedlings from a bush is quite realistic. The main thing is not to remove faded panicles in early varieties and not to expect the children to repeat parental traits.

In general, perennials turn out decorative, often with white and pale pinkish racemes.

Seeds for seedlings

Sellers sell bags with seeds of varietal astilba no less successfully than rhizomes. The gardener has the opportunity to choose the color he likes or the desired height of the plant and start germinating seedlings.

To track the pattern, and to establish the timing of seed germination, so far none of the gardeners has succeeded

Adult astilbes with well-developed roots prefer to grow in loam. Gentle shoots need to organize a mixture of peat and sand, mixed in equal quantities.

Calendar March is the time when seeds come out of deep dormancy, the acquisition of the ability to germinate. However, the start may be delayed for 3-5 months, due to specific features seeds, in particular the underdevelopment of embryos. The process of awakening astilba goes through several stages. At the same time, a number of them proceed imperceptibly, without visible manifestations of seed growth.

Action algorithm:

• a wide and low container is filled with a wet substrate;
• seeds are scattered on the surface of the soil;
• spray them abundantly with a spray bottle;
• capacity for 2-3 weeks put in the refrigerator for stratification;
• after the specified period, the seed is placed on a bright windowsill;
• regularly moisten the soil.

On a note! The emergence of seedlings 3-5 months after sowing for astilba is the norm. It is important during this period to maintain optimal humidity substrate.

The practice of using powdered hydrogel in agricultural technology is not new. Some gardeners got used to growing seedlings of not only tomatoes, but also astilbes in it. It is believed that the seeds in the gel germinate faster. If you have to wait months for seedlings in the soil, then when sown in a polymer, the period is reduced to 3-4 weeks. How to propagate astilba in a hydrogel? What are the mistakes of beginner gardeners?

To remove sprouts from the surface of a napkin, filter paper, gauze, you will need tweezers

The algorithm of actions when germinating seeds in a polymer is similar to the procedure when using soil:

• the gel is diluted according to the annotation to the drug (sometimes excess water is drained);
• put damp filter paper on top;
• astilba seeds are scattered on the surface;
• spray them with a spray bottle;
• the container is removed in the refrigerator;
• removed after 10-20 days;
• put the container in a bright place and wait for the emergence of seedlings.

As a rule, astilbe sprouts peck before the stated time. Sometimes even in the refrigerator, during the stratification period. This is a signal that the plant needs to be transplanted into a pot with peat and sand. Further, the seedlings are followed by standard care: watering, diving, transplanting into open ground.

Three main mistakes of inexperienced gardeners:

• sowing astilba in gel without paper (napkins), when the seeds are literally buried in the polymer and simply suffocate;
• untimely removal of the seedling from the gel, when young roots are deformed and rot due to lack of oxygen;
• turning the container into a greenhouse, which significantly increases the humidity environment and destroys sensitive sprouts.

Working on the bugs will allow you to get a few cherished astilba bushes or propagate your favorite variety.

On a note! Perennial, grown by seed, blooms in the 3rd, less often in the 2nd year.

When to transplant into seedlings?

Time of the procedure: spring, summer, early autumn. In principle, practice shows that during the period of active vegetation (and even flowering), astilbe takes root perfectly in a new place. The main thing is that the bush is sufficiently formed, strong and healthy, so that it can quickly adapt to new conditions.

Astilba budding is not an obstacle to finding a new place of residence

In the spring, seedlings are transplanted after the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. Aggressive weather is quite capable of destroying young (2-year-old) plants. In summer, the bushes are moved at any time. In the fall - as early as possible, so that the perennial has time to take root before retiring.

The holes should be spacious enough, the post should be flavored with nutrients: complex fertilizer, ash. After planting the bush, it is important to water the soil well around and mulch it with grass and sawdust.

Reproduction of astilba by dividing the bush is an important "rejuvenating" procedure. From one old overgrown perennial, the gardener receives 2-4 new compact flowers. Ignoring this item for 5-7 years naturally leads to a loss of decorativeness of the plant, a decrease in the number of peduncles, crushing of inflorescences, and the death of part of the root.

Step-by-step instructions for dividing and transplanting astilba:

• at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground, stems and peduncles are cut;
• dig up a bush;
• with a shovel (knife) cut the rhizome into pieces with 3-5 buds;
• delenki are planted in the ground, observing a minimum distance of 30 cm.

Ashes, mineral fertilizers, and, if desired, hydrogel are poured into a spacious hole for long-term retention of moisture near the rhizome. After planting the astilba, the hole is well watered, the ground around is mulched with improvised materials.

This bush can be safely divided into 3-4 parts

On a note! If the division of the perennial is carried out in the spring, in early March, astilbe may bloom already in this season.

Rooting buds renewal

This method differs from dividing the bush in that planting material processed selectively. The gardener is not interested in a whole rhizome, but in young shoots (renewal buds). The shoot is cut off with part of the root. The cut is sprinkled with ash. The seedling is rooted in a pot with a substrate consisting of equal portions of peat and sand.

In open ground, astilba is best transplanted next spring. In a year, the delenka will have time to grow up and get stronger for new tests.

How to choose and propagate purchased planting material? See advice from Garden World:

When and why to divide astilba? The "newspaper gardener" answers:

Astilbe (lat. Astilbe)- a representative of the genus of herbaceous perennials of the Saxifrage family, uniting, according to various sources, from 18 to 40 species. “A” - without, “stilbe” - shine, that is, Lord Hamilton, a botanist from Scotland, who gave the name to the plant, meant that astilbe leaves are dull, dull, without shine. Astilbe is native to East Asia, North America and the Japanese Islands. It grows in broad-leaved forests, along the banks of streams, in places where it is humid in summer. At the end of the 18th or the beginning of the 19th century, astilbe was brought to Europe from Japan by hunters for outlandish plants Karl Thunberg and von Siebold, and since then it has been a favorite of all shady gardens.

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Planting and caring for astilba (in brief)

• Landing: May June.
• Bloom: end of June-August.
• Lighting: penumbra or shade.
• The soil: moist loam with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
• Watering: frequent and plentiful, in the heat - 2 times a day.
• Hilling: regular.
• Top dressing: in spring, when hilling, apply humus, in mid-June - potash fertilizers, before flowering is completed - phosphorus.
• Reproduction: seed, vegetative - dividing the bush, separating the rhizome with a kidney without digging the bush.
• Pests: slobbering pennitsy, gall and strawberry nematodes.
• Diseases: root rot, bacterial spotting, phytoplasmic and viral diseases.

Read more about growing astilba below.

Astilba flower - description

Astilba is a rhizomatous plant, the aerial part of which dies off for the winter. Astilba stems are erect, from 8 cm to 2 m high, depending on the species or variety. The leaves are long-petiolate, sometimes simple, sometimes twice or thrice pinnate, serrated. Color is dark green or reddish green. The rhizome of astilba is woody and, depending on the species, loose or dense. Every year, new buds form in the upper part of the rhizome, while the lower part gradually dies off. The annual vertical growth is approximately 3-5 cm, therefore, before winter, fertile soil is added to the exposed rhizome.

Astilbe flowers are apical inflorescences of small openwork flowers of white, red, lilac, pink, purple hues, blooming in June-July-August. Inflorescences are paniculate, rhombic and pyramidal. Very beautiful species with drooping inflorescences. Astilbe fruit is a box. According to the timing of flowering, astilbes are early (late June-early July), medium (July), and late (August).

Astilbes breed vegetatively (dividing the bush and separating the rhizome with a kidney) and seeds. And although inexperienced flower growers prefer vegetative methods, we will tell you how to grow astilba from seeds, because it is the seed method of reproduction that allows you to engage in breeding and get new varieties. Astilbe seeds are sown in March: a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) is placed in a wide container 15 cm high, and a layer of snow 1 cm thick is placed on top (in a snowless winter you can scrape snow in the freezer), over which the seeds are scattered. Melting snow, moistening the soil, immerses the seeds in it.

After the snow melts, place the container in a transparent bag and refrigerate for twenty days (this is called stratification) until germination, and then transfer to a bright, warm (18-22 ºC) place. Be careful with watering, otherwise you will destroy the seedlings: water under the root or inject water into the soil with a syringe. When the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, they dive into small pots to plant in the ground. When to plant astilbe from seedlings, we will cover in the next section.

In the photo: Astilbe seed size against the background of a coin

Astilbe planting

Growing and caring for astilba do not involve any particular difficulties, so let's start with the main thing: astilba is planted in May-June on the north side of the house, in the shade of trees or bushes, although some varieties can adapt to a sunnier place and will bloom more abundantly, but less long. If there is a fountain or a pool nearby, it is generally ideal. The soil is preferably loamy, with a high occurrence ground water. The optimal acidity is pH 5.5-6.5. Astilba in the garden perfectly coexists with hostas: host leaves retain soil moisture and prevent it from overheating in the heat.

In the photo: Planting an astilba tuber in the ground

Planting astilba in spring preceded by digging the site and removing the rhizomes of weeds and other plants, followed by fertilizing the flower bed with compost, rotted manure or rotted peat at the rate of 2 buckets of fertilizer per 1 m 2. Before planting astilbe, prepare holes 20-30 cm deep and wide at a distance of 30 cm from each other and throw half a glass of ash and 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer into each, then water well. Place the seedlings, or rather, the astilba root, so that the soil layer above the growth buds is at least 4-5 cm. Cover it with earth, compact it and mulch the planting with a layer of humus or peat 3-5 cm thick.

astilbe care

The main feature of astilba- the growth of the rhizome upwards and the gradual death of its lower part. That is, over time, the root system is without nutrition, so the hilling of astilba is of particular importance.

Do not let the soil dry out: timely watering is one of the mandatory rules, which includes caring for astilba.

In addition, mulching will allow you not only to protect the root system from overheating, but also to keep the soil moist longer, and also get rid of weeds and the need to frequently loosen the soil. Astilba's water requirement is medium to high depending on the species and variety, but all varieties need regular and abundant watering during the formation of inflorescences. In severe drought water the astilba twice a day - early in the morning and in the evening.

In the photo: How to properly plant astilbe tubers in open ground

Without a transplant, astilba can grow for 5-7 years, but if you take care of it carefully and fertilize it on time, then its lifespan in the same area can last up to twenty years. Astilba is being fed in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers (introduction of humus during hilling), in mid-June - potash (half a liter per bush of a solution of 2 tablespoons of potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water), and before the end of flowering - phosphorus (20 g superphosphate per bush). After top dressing, the soil is loosened and mulched again.

Astilbe, like many other introduced plants, left its specific "enemies" in the places of origin. In our latitudes, it is sometimes struck by slobbering pennitsa and two nematodes - strawberry and gall. pennitsa settles in the axils of the leaves and forms foamy saliva-like secretions, inside which live leafhopper larvae. The more pennits, the more the leaves wrinkle, becoming covered with yellow spots. As a result, the plant withers partially or completely. You can get rid of slobbering pennitsa by treating plants with Confidor, Rogor, Karbofos or Aktara.

In the photo: Astilbe flowering in a flower bed

Astilba after flowering

When the astilba fades and the flower stalks begin to dry out, do not rush to cut them off, because even in a semi-dry form, the spectacular astilbe inflorescences will decorate your garden. But at the end of the season, when you have to put things in order in the flower garden before winter rest, the astilba stems need to be cut flush with the ground, and the area should be mulched. Especially if before that you planted astilba by rhizome division. This is done in order to rejuvenate the astilba, because when the root becomes woody, it will be difficult to separate it. Therefore, in early autumn, the rhizomes are divided so that each division has a growth bud, then the next year, as a rule, the transplanted astilba is already blooming.

In the photo: Astilba has faded

It is only necessary to mulch the site, and it would be good to throw spruce branches on freshly transplanted rhizomes to protect new plants from winter frost and be sure that astilba will not die in the spring from a sharp temperature drop.

Types and varieties of astilba

The culture uses 10-12 plant species, which, as a result of selection, have produced many hybrid varieties. Today, the number of varieties has reached two hundred. most popular hybrid groups are Arends hybrids (Arendsii Hybrida), Japanese hybrids (Japonica Hybrida), Chinese astilbe (Astilbe Chinensis) and its varieties, as well as simple-leaved astilbe (Astilbe simplicifolia).

In the photo: Blooming white astilba in the garden

Astilba Arendsa (Astilbe x arendsii)

It is represented by forty varieties, which are the result of crossing the base species - Astilba David - with other species. These are powerful, sprawling, tall bushes (up to 100 cm) of spherical or pyramidal shape with dark green leaves and terminal inflorescences of white, lilac, red and pink flowers. Blooms longer than other species for 30-40 days from July to August. Cultivated since 1907, but the best varieties were created by G. Arends.

Popular varieties are: astilba Gloria, Diamant, Weiss Gloria, Ruby, Glut and others. Amethyst, Weiss Gloria and Ruby reach 80 cm in height, Diamant - 90 cm. But if Diamant, Glut and Rubin have panicled inflorescences, then Gloria and Weiss Gloria have diamond-shaped inflorescences.

In the photo: Astilba Arendsa (Astilbe x arendsii)

Astilbe Chinese (Astilbe chinensis)

The plant is up to 1-1.1 m high, the basal leaves are large, long-petiolate, the stem leaves are smaller, on short petioles, shiny and openwork. The inflorescences are dense, 30-35 cm long, the flowers are small, usually lilac in color, but there are varieties with pink and white flowers. Cultivated by flower growers since 1859, has undersized forms (var. pumila hort.) from 15 cm to 25 cm and forms with cone-shaped inflorescences var. Taquetii. Astilbes of this species grow well in sunny areas.

The most beautiful varieties of Chinese astilbe are Astilbe chinensis taquetii Purpurlanze of incredible lilac color, pink Astilbe chinensis Vision in Pink, Astilbe chinensis (Pumila Hybrida) Vision in Red of dark purple color.

Now, many flower growers, in order to create a special flower garden decor, are trying to plant not the usual daisies and carnations on their site, but something unusual and original. For these purposes, astilba is ideal. This perennial is unusually decorative, not capricious, easily propagated. Astilbe captivates with its dark green carved leaves with small airy flowers, gracefully collected in panicles, but in order for it to please you for a long time, you need to know how to care for it. An important element in it is the transplantation of astilba in the fall to another place. Why this is necessary and how to perform such a procedure, our article will tell.

astilbe plant

The astilbe flower is a member of the Saxifrage family. You can meet him in East Asia, Japan or in North America(where it comes from). In Russia in Lately astilba is also grown quite willingly. Depending on the variety, the height of this perennial shrub varies from 15 cm to 200 cm. The length of fluffy panicles is also ambiguous and can be 10-60 cm. The color scheme of astilba is quite diverse. Its flowers can be lilac, red, pink and white.

Advantages

Astilba has many advantages:

• Completely unpretentious in care.
• The process of its reproduction is quite simple.
• Perfectly drains the soil (for example, after rains), as it is very moisture-loving. Therefore, it is recommended to plant it along the walls of houses (in order to protect the foundation from excessive moisture).
• The shadow is not a hindrance to her, that is, she grows well in places that are little illuminated by the sun.
• During all the summer months, astilbe pleases everyone around with its lush flowering.

Varieties

There are a huge number of types of astilba. Among them hybrid varieties(there are about 40 of them), Japanese varieties, Korean and Chinese.

Species obtained by crossing the main base species (David's astilba) with others are called Anders hybrids. Their distinctive characteristics are: sphericity, sprawling, as well as the shape of a bush in the form of a pyramid. Shrubs with a height of about 1 meter have the longest flowering period (35-45 days: from July to August). The most popular varieties among summer residents include: Dynamite, Gloria, Ruby and Amethyst.

Low (up to 80 cm), cold-resistant and early-blooming Japanese varieties easily take root in new places and continue to decorate the home garden even after flowering. The most common varieties are Europe, Montgomery, Rhineland and Deutschland.

High (about 1.1-1.2 m) Chinese varieties, having rather large basal leaves and dense inflorescences (35-40 cm long) have successfully taken root on Russian soil. Main varieties: Vision in Pink, Purpurlanze and Vision in Red.

Regardless of the species, activities such as planting astilba in the fall and caring for the plant are important in caring for the plant. open ground.

Where is the best place to plant

The easiest way to care for astilba is to find appropriate place for landing. The fact is that the plant is so unpretentious that it can be planted where other flowers simply cannot survive. A huge plus of this plant is that it can bloom luxuriantly in dense shade, and also that it can be planted in wetlands and lowlands, where water often stagnates. The abundance of moisture in the soil is a prerequisite successful cultivation astilbe.

True, there are separate varieties that need the sun. These plants need to be watered abundantly and mulched to retain moisture in the soil.

There are some nuances that should be considered when choosing a landing site:

• The plant does not tolerate very close proximity to trees. The fact is that the root system of such neighbors greatly weakens the astilba and does not allow it to develop properly.
• Very much to the liking of the plant soil with a high occurrence of groundwater. In this case, astilba is guaranteed to receive moisture throughout the summer period.
• The flower does not tolerate drought well. Therefore, in regions with a hot and dry climate, the plant looks oppressed and has a weak flowering.

When transplanting astilba in the fall, these features of the plant must be taken into account.

Landing pattern

The landing scheme of such ornamental plant, like astilbe, is quite simple. If you want to see perennial tall bushes in your area, then they should be planted at a distance of 50 cm from each other. If you are ready to be content with undersized representatives of this species, then each subsequent plant can be placed 30 cm from the previous one.

That is, when transplanting astilba in the fall, it is necessary to adhere to certain recommendations described above.

Landing or transfer dates

Despite all the unpretentiousness of astilba, in order to obtain a positive result in its cultivation, it is necessary not only to choose right place and carry out planting in a certain way, but also comply with the deadlines for agrotechnical work.

The best time for planting or transplanting astilba in the fall is the beginning of September, and in the spring - the end of April and the beginning of May. When planting a plant in early autumn, you need to correctly calculate the time it will take for the seedling to fully grow stronger before the onset of cold weather and frost.

Astilba transplant time in autumn is determined by the end of its flowering. There is no point in postponing this work to a later date. The plant should be placed in a new place about a month before the air temperature drops below +5 degrees. Some flower growers are interested in when it is preferable to transplant astilba, in spring or autumn? Of course, these works are best done in spring period, since in this case you can see the first flowering at the end of the season. If there is no such goal, then transplant in the fall.

How often to transplant astilba

What is planting astilba in the fall and care in the open field? According to flower growers, astilba should be propagated and transplanted once every four years. It is during this time that the rhizome of the plant grows to such a size that it begins to become bare, rising above the soil layer. This can lead to the fact that with the onset of frost the flower will die. However, if after 4 years the plant is still in full bloom, then you should not look for another place in the garden for it, it is better to just feed it to help it bloom luxuriantly and for a long time.

Preparing the soil for planting

How to transplant astilbe in the fall? What kind of soil does she like? She loves moist, light (loose), rich in humus and slightly acidic soil, seasoned with organic matter. In autumn, before planting (or transplanting), we perform the following work:

• We dig the earth to a depth of about 30 cm.
• We remove weeds (necessarily along with the root) and any debris.
• We bring in peat, rotted manure and humus (1 bucket of the mixture is enough for 1 m²).

In the spring, wanting to plant astilba, we dig a small hole (no more than 25-35 cm deep), we lay complex fertilizer in granules (about 30 g), ash (half a glass) and compost into it; mix everything thoroughly and pour, sparing no water. We wait until the liquid is completely absorbed into the soil, and only then we plant the prepared seedling, dig it in with earth, compact the soil around the plant to avoid the presence of voids filled with air, sprinkle the earth (if necessary) and mulch with sawdust, bark, peat or straw. The height of the layer should be at least 4-7 cm.

Transplanting astilba in the fall to another place

• The plant feels comfortable in one place for 4-5 years. If the flowering is no longer so lush, then this is a sure sign that it is better to transplant the astilba.
• These works can be performed not only in spring or autumn, but also during the entire warm period, even when the plant is in bloom and there are many buds on it.
• Transplantation of astilba flowers in the fall in the country is carried out according to different reasons among which reproduction occupies an important place. For this plant, it is performed mainly by dividing the rhizome. Other ways - cuttings and renewal buds. In addition, planting astilba in autumn with seeds can also be done, although many still prefer to propagate by dividing an overgrown bush.
• You can divide a young plant with your hands. To separate the parts of the rhizome of the astilba "aged", one cannot do without a shovel.

The place of division of the rhizome should be generously sprinkled with ash to protect it from decay and the penetration of bacteria living in the ground.

In order to injure the flower less, it is desirable to capture more root earth along with the rhizome and transfer it all to a new place. After transplanting, the plant should be watered abundantly.

We prepare a pit for a new plant as described above. We plant a delenka in it in such a way that the depth of the renewal buds is 5-6 cm. After planting, we water the astilba abundantly so that the soil is properly compacted. After a couple of days, the bush will come to its senses and begin its life.

In the first year, the plant will be weak, so flower growers recommend removing all flower stalks on it so that the root system develops better.

We water correctly

A feature of the growth of the roots of the plant is that they grow exclusively in top layer soil. Therefore, it is very important to provide astilbe with sufficient watering throughout the growing season. In especially hot and dry periods, astilba should be watered twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. A layer of mulch with a thickness of 10 cm or more helps to retain moisture in the soil.

Let's feed on time

It is optimal to feed astilba three times a year:

• We make the first dressing at the very beginning of spring, when the young shoots have already begun their development. For these purposes, we use complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
• We give the second, phosphorus recharge after flowering.
• The third is carried out in the fall, when the flowering is over. This time we will limit ourselves to liquid (to avoid burns on plant stems) potash fertilizers.

We make pruning

In late autumn, the entire aerial part of the plant must be cut off, leaving only very small stumps. Also in the fall, you need to add astilbe mulch. This will protect the plant from the cold. Particular care should be taken to transplant astilba in autumn in Siberia and other regions with severe winters. So that the plants in the new place do not die due to the fact that their root system has not yet had time to become strong and hardy, it is necessary in the fall, as soon as the air temperature is set at -8-10 degrees Celsius, to cover the young seedlings with spruce branches or other covering material.

Pests

Despite the fact that astilba is very resistant to many diseases, and pests are not terrible for it, sometimes such “troubles” occur, such as the formation of brown and yellow spots on leaves affected by slobbery pennitsa. These pests suck the juice from the leaf tissue, which destroys not only individual leaf plates, but the entire bush. You can fight pennitsa using various insecticides, for example, Karbofos.

In addition to pennitsa, nematodes (strawberry and gallic) can also attack astilba. The first causes deformation of the leaves, and the second causes significant damage to the roots. These pests do not tolerate drugs such as Fitoferm. Using it, you can completely get rid of nematodes.

Astilba is appreciated by both professional gardeners and amateurs for its unpretentiousness, as well as lush and long flowering. A sprawling flower looks spectacular, even if it does not bloom - beautiful green leaves of an attractive shape can decorate any household plot. In this article, we will consider how to properly grow astilba in the open field, planting features, care and photos. different varieties this bush.

Morphological features and characteristics of the flower

Astilbe looks quite original and presentable, and when flowering, it simply transforms the entire backyard area. It's decorative bush with split leaves bright green, located on the branches of a reddish hue.

Gardeners prefer astilba not only for a reason lush flowering, but also due to the fact that, unlike many other plants, it can be in constant shade when planted, creating a magnificent colorful flowering. But strong darkening is contraindicated even for this plant. Best planting in partial shade.

Astilba can sustainably endure severe frosts, it is almost not exposed to diseases, and even many harmful insects fly around it. This is the most the best option for the beginner grower.

Astilba is a perennial flower, native to Asia and Japan. In total there are more than 300 species, each of them has its own size, shape, color and splendor of flowering. The growth of this plant can be in the range of 15-250 cm. The flowers are in panicles 15260 cm long, after flowering, "boxes" appear on them, in which there are small seeds. Almost all types of astilba begin flowering in June.

The ground part of this plant winter time dies off, and the root system waits out frosts and begins to grow in spring. Every year, buds form on top of the roots, giving a constant increase of about 4 cm, and the lower part dies off after a while. To ensure comfortable development of the formed buds, after dying, soil is poured onto the exposed root.

As mentioned above, the breeders really liked the lush astilba, so that they created more than 300 of its species. We will not describe the advantages of each, but consider only the most common and beautiful.

Astilba Arendsa

This is a whole family of astilbes, which is represented by 50 hybrids that appeared as a result of the selection of the giant astilbe of David. They differ in developed trunks up to 160 cm high. They have a cone-shaped or spherical shape with lush vegetation. Flowers are absolutely different shades from pure white to bright purple.

Hybrid bushes differ both in size and long flowering time - more than a month. The most attractive plant species were created by G. Arends, therefore the class of hybrids was named after this scientist. For example, astilba Gloria - perennial up to 90 cm long during flowering. This shrub easily winters and growing, perhaps, on almost any soil, except sandy. Characterized by fluffy inflorescences Pink colour in the form of a rhombus, with a delicate sweet aroma and openwork foliage. Gloria is water loving, therefore it is best to plant it on the coast of a lake or an artificial pond. Other hybrids:

• Liliput is a small plant up to 30 cm long. Dense pinkish inflorescences begin to bloom in late July. Liliput is great for equipping an alpine slide or a small backyard flower garden.
• Jump & Jive - a bush up to half a meter long, blooming at the end of June. Produces large, branched pinkish buds that contrast beautifully with the green foliage.
• Boogie Woogie is also a hybrid species that grows 60-75 cm. In July, it will delight you with contrasting pink diamond-shaped flowers, giving the bush a magnificent shape.

Chinese astilba

This plant can be up to 120 cm long, it has large leaves near the roots and smaller ones near the inflorescences. Starts flowering quite densely packed inflorescences up to 30 cm with small purple flowers.

There are also undersized varieties Chinese astilba up to 30 cm long and species with pyramidal flowers. This variety of bushes feels more confident when grown in unshaded areas and in partial shade.

Japanese astilba

This is not a desktop tall bush, as described above (up to 75 cm) and is characterized by small, densely located leaves with a pronounced pattern. Flowers pink and white color bloom much earlier than other varieties, while even after drying, the inflorescences practically do not lose their shape and decorate the flower bed until the end of autumn.

Japanese astilbe is a hybrid that bred by Arendson in 1838. Since that time, several more species have been cultivated, characterized by frost resistance and excellent survival in any region.

simple astilbe

This hybrid does not perceive a dry climate very well and requires periodic abundant watering. The plant can be up to half a meter long and forms thinned inflorescences.

Astilba propagation methods

Growing astilba on suburban area an easy job. The plant propagates by seed and vegetative method. During the latter, the division of the plant and reproduction by the kidneys is possible. And if this method is suitable for beginners, then the seed method allows you to breed new plant varieties.

Propagation with seeds

Seeds are located in boxes that come to replace beautiful flowers. It is necessary to sow them in March, subjecting them to stratification before that. Why the seeds are placed in a container with sand and peat in a ratio of 1: 1, put on top snow layer 1 cm(suitable "snow" from the freezer).

Snow thaws over time, moistening the earth, enriching it with useful elements and immersing seeds in the soil. When the snow has completely melted, the container must be covered with a film and placed at the bottom of the refrigerator for 3 weeks. During this period, the first shoots are formed, they will be hardened and will perfectly endure the next wintering.

After 3 weeks, the sprouts of the bush are transferred to a bright room with a temperature of + 22C. Plants should be watered very carefully, using a syringe without a needle and directing water only under the root.

When the seedlings are a little stronger and a few leaves appear, transplant them into small pots.

Attention: varietal astilbes will not be able to propagate using seeds, as hybrids cannot keep their characteristic features. Bushes grown by this method are used only in breeding.

Propagation by plant division

As a rule, astilba is propagated by dividing the plant. This is a fairly simple and effective option.

Plant division:

• Carefully remove the soil near the plant with a diameter of 17-25 cm and remove the earthen ball with the root system.
• Remove excess soil to clear the roots.
• Cut the root into pieces with a knife, and each part must have at least 3 buds.
• Plant bushes at a distance of 25 and arrange for sufficient watering every day.

If you divide the plant at the end of February, then by autumn the bush will already delight you with its flowers.

Reproduction with the help of kidneys

This reproduction is the fastest. It should be carried out in the spring, when the shoots grow. Carefully cut off the buds from the root and fill the cut on the branch with coal, so harmful organisms do not get inside.

Plant cuttings in peat and gravel mix in a ratio of 3:1 and cover with foil. Before transplanting a bush into open ground, it must get stronger and begin its development. A bush can be planted on the site only in the fall.

Landing

Planting this plant in open ground and care will not require great skills and costs. The most important thing is to choose the optimal location and organize the necessary conditions. It is necessary to plant plants at the end of May on the northern side of the site in partial shade.

If there is a pond in the backyard, then plant an astilba near it. It is desirable to select a fertile loamy soil. Acidity is essential in the range of 5.4-6.4 pH. If there are hostas next to the astilba, then their leaves will not allow the bush to overheat in the summer.

When choosing a place for planting a plant, you need to take into account the flowering time of different species. Thus, astilba, which blooms in July, loves dark places more, while other species feel equally good in the shade and in the sun.

By and large, any soil is suitable for astilba, but if you want to get lush and long flowering, then you need to choose a site in which groundwater is near the surface. You also need to take care of the presence of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. When digging holes for breeding, add complex fertilizers 35 g/sq. m and 2 presses of bone meal. If you plant astilbe in a flower bed, then make a recess of 35 cm and put the additives listed above mixed in with humus.

Astilbe landing stages:

• Dig up the area and remove all weeds.
• Fertilize the soil.
• If necessary, make liming with dolomite flour.
• Make indentations 35 cm with a distance of 40 cm.
• Add fertilizer and water them.
• Plant the sprouts and sprinkle so that the thickness of the soil above the buds is at least 5 cm.
• Pack the soil and mulch with compost.

Care

A feature of this plant is that the roots grow upwards, and do not tend downwards, like in other bushes. In this case, the lower processes die after a while. And if you do not organize normal feeding for new roots, the plant will die. Therefore, every year you need to sprinkle the bare roots with soil and prevent them from drying out.

The main requirement during care is constant watering. Regular mulching of the earth will protect the roots from the sun, and also make it possible to control emergence of weeds.

Do not forget that the frequency and amount of watering will depend on the type of astilba, so study the characteristics of the selected variety, watch the instructional video and photo on planting this plant. During the formation of flowers, all species require enhanced watering, and if the summer is hot, then it must be done twice a day. You need to feed the bush from spring, adding nitrogen fertilizers. After top dressing, the earth needs to be mulched.

Pests

Since the homeland of astilba is far beyond the borders of our country, it has no enemies here, but still like some insects. There are quite a few of them, but still they can bring significant damage to the plant.

The main pest is penny. This is a small flying insect that secretes a mica-like foamy solution, and lays its larvae in it. Finally, due to certain chemical composition given secretions and the presence of larvae, the leaves of the plant curl and covered with various stains. From which the bush partially withers or completely dies. Helps get rid of this pest special chemistry- rogor, aktara, confidor or karbofos.

Two more pests are strawberry and gall nematodes. The first is settled in leaves and flowers, as a result, the leaves curl and become stained, the bush slows down its growth, begins to wither and dies.

Summing up, we can say that due to the variety of species, astilba looks great as a single plant, flower beds and borders. This shrub perfectly coexists with various flower and herbal crops, such as daylilies, hostas, lilies and geyhers. Due to the ease of care, these spreading bushes will really decorate any backyard territory.

Beautiful astilba at their summer cottage

If there is an unfilled area in your garden, whether it is a flower bed, a place on alpine slide or under a tree, or maybe just an empty container, plant an astilba there and you won’t regret it at all. Now we'll tell you why.

It looks like astilba in the garden. Astilbe flower - description and plant varieties Astilba came to Russia from East Asia or Japan and adapted to our climate so much that she learned to endure severe frosts in winter and high temperatures in summer. The only thing that this plant could not refuse was the presence of moisture in the same amount as in its natural habitat (shady forest or stream bank). Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial that forms a powerful, beautiful, sometimes multi-colored curtain that dies off in the winter and grows again in the spring from rhizomes. The height of the plant is different - from 15 cm to 2 m. The basal leaves have a beautiful carved shape and are red-green or dark green in color. Inflorescences are located on a high stem, have a fluffy texture and various forms: rhombus, panicle, pyramid or downward, drooping twigs. inflorescence rhombus panicle inflorescence inflorescence pyramid Flowering in all varieties of astilba lasts about 1 month, but at different times: early flowering bloom in June, mid-flowering - in July, late - in August. Previously, these flowers were only white, pink-lilac or purple. Now there is such a variety of colors and shades in the assortment that it is simply impossible not to be interested in astilba and you should definitely grow it in the open field, especially since it is easy and pleasant to do. Ease and pleasantness lies in the fact that the plant reproduces well, rarely gets sick and is almost not affected by pests. Where is the best place to plant astilbe? When choosing a place to plant astilba, you need to consider three factors: The plant is able to live in one place up to 15 - 20 years. It is growing rapidly. In sunny places, the flowering period is shorter. In regions with a cool climate and frequent rains, astilba can be planted in open areas and alpine slides. In hot places, it is necessary to divert penumbra to astilbe plantings. This is especially important for medium-flowering specimens, since their flowering period coincides with the highest temperatures. Astilba that blooms in June-July and August-September can be planted in the sun, as peak temperatures will not be able to affect the duration of flowering of these species. But in this case, you have to pay Special attention watering her. Astiba plantings along the edge of an artificial reservoir look extraordinarily beautiful! In addition, plants will love the proximity of water. In any place, it is necessary to prepare fertile light soil and ensure sufficient watering and mulching. Planting time depends on the chosen method of reproduction. How to grow astilba at home Breeding astilba is quite easy. It reproduces best vegetatively: dividing an adult bush into parts, renewal kidneys. Growing astilba from seeds is also possible, but it has one nuance that should be discussed separately. The problem is that specimens grown from collected seeds do not retain the qualities mother plants. Experience shows that the following changes are possible: color difference, most often a pale pink color, loss of decorativeness (splendor) of the brush, shortening of the flowering period. You should not completely abandon this method of growing astilba, but for this you need to use only breeding seed material. Growing astilba from seeds Sowing seeds You can sow seeds both for seedlings and immediately into the ground, the main thing to remember is that the seed material needs to be stratified. If the method of sowing in the ground is chosen, then it is better to do it in the fall. To do this, fence the prepared area with boards or flexible borders, distribute the seeds over the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkle with earth and cover with covering material. During the winter, the process of stratification will take place, and the seeds will give friendly shoots. In an apartment, stratification of seeds will take 3 weeks. At this time, seeds mixed with peat or sand and moistened are placed in a refrigerator at a temperature not higher than +4 - +6 degrees. Then, in early - mid-March, they are sown in containers for germination in warmth and light. Seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks. seedling care When 2 - 3 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be picked in separate cups. Astilbe care at this time is very simple - timely watering and protection from direct sunlight. Planting seedlings in the ground It usually takes 2 to 3 months between sowing astilba and planting it in open ground. The best landing time is the onset of stable warm temperatures. The plant is not capricious, takes root well and grows quickly. Flowering occurs at 2 - 3 years of life. Planting astilba in the ground with rhizomes Most often, astilbe is grown from rhizomes. Moreover, their sale begins long before the start of the planting season and ends quickly, as the plant is very popular. How to store pre-purchased rhizomes? If the rhizome is still sleeping, then you can store it in the refrigerator and plant it in open ground as soon as possible. If a sprout has already appeared, then you need to place it in a container with earth and put it in a bright but cool place. Sometimes such specimens still form flower stalks in containers. You can leave them, as astilba is a strong plant and is able to endure both transplanting and flowering at the same time. Awakened astilba rhizome Rhizomes acquired or stored in winter must be well inspected before planting, dry or damaged parts removed. If the rhizome was very dry, then you need to wrap it in a napkin soaked in epin for 6 hours. The planting hole is prepared taking into account the size of the rhizome, i.e. for each individually: the main thing is that the roots are evenly distributed, the depth is sufficient, and the growth point is above the ground. The soil should be fertile and light. One handful of bone meal and ash, 25 - 30 g of mineral fertilizers, humus are poured into the bottom of the pit, everything is mixed, poured with water. After that, the rhizome is placed there, buried and mulched with a layer of peat at least 3–5 cm thick. Planting rhizomes in the ground The distance between plants depends on their variety and purpose of planting. For example, when creating a border from tall astilbe, a distance of 50 cm is maintained, but in any case, it should not be less than 30 cm. How to care for astilba in spring and summer As mentioned above, the leaves and stems of astilba die off for the winter, and grow back in the spring. In order for the plant to quickly gain green mass, it is necessary to feed it in the spring. mineral fertilizers With high content nitrogen. During flowering, astilbe needs phosphorus top dressing so that the brushes are lush and bloom for as long as possible. And closer to autumn, it's time to apply potash fertilizers to help the rhizomes prepare for wintering. The main care for astilbe in the warm period is regular watering, as the plant does not tolerate a lack of moisture. On particularly hot days, it is advisable to water even 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Periodic mulching will help not only retain moisture, but also protect against weeds, and also create a warm shelter for rhizomes before winter. Before mulching, the soil must be loosened, then scatter a layer of mulch and loosen again. This procedure is best repeated three times per season. Mulching with pebbles Mulching with wood chips Astilba has one feature - it seems to rise from the ground due to vertical growth. Because of this, young roots and buds are too close to the surface, so they can overheat or dry out. In this situation, it is necessary backfilling of fertile soil. In the spring, you also need to check the landings and add backfill where it is required. Astilba transplant. In the open ground, astilbes multiply very quickly and have to be divided and replanted periodically. Some varieties require this procedure every 3 to 4 years, but most - once every five years. If the transplant is scheduled for spring, then you need to wait for stable heat and the possibility of providing frequent watering. At any other time, even during the flowering period, transplants are successful, the main thing is to ensure abundant watering for two weeks after that. Late-flowering astilbes, transplanted in March, bloom in due time for them - in August - early September. So you can safely take on the transplant and be sure of success! 3 ways to propagate astilba There are three ways to propagate astilba: seeds The division of the rhizome Kidney renewal 1 way. Reproduction by seeds As we have already discussed, not the most The best way. harvested seeds not suitable for sowing, as they do not retain maternal qualities. Good breeding stock can only be obtained from the most reliable suppliers. The process of growing astilba from seeds is long and laborious, because seeds require stratification, seedlings - diving and care at home, as well as enhanced watering after planting in open ground, etc. In addition, the plant blooms only in the third year. But the higher the reward! Reproduction by seeds. 2 way. The division of the bush This is a favorite method among gardeners, as it always gives good results. The best time for this is early spring, but subject to sufficient moisture and heat. Astilba can be divided even during flowering. The acquisition of delenki with flowering brushes allows you to see all the features of the future bush, to determine the period of its flowering. The survival rate of such plants is good when providing proper care(abundant watering, loosening, mulching). The division procedure is as follows: The mother bush is carefully dug up. The rhizome is cut into pieces 3-5 cm long with 2-3 buds. Sections are sprinkled wood ash and dry up. Are being prepared landing pits or furrows, fertile soil, fertilizers are introduced, everything is watered. Delenki are placed at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other (depending on the variety up to 50 cm) They are buried so that the growth buds are above the surface. Mulch with a layer of 3 - 5 cm. Further care for astilbe consists in abundant watering, fertilizing according to the periods of plant development, mulching and loosening. Astilbes, obtained by dividing the bush in the spring, may bloom in the fall. The division of the bush. 3 way. Kidney renewal This is how astilba is propagated in early spring when the first shoots appear. To do this, you should not dig out the rhizome, but you just need to put a kidney with a root with a sharp knife. Several buds can be taken from one mother bush, but not more than a third. The cut point must be treated with ash and astilbe should be planted for rooting in a greenhouse. The soil should be light, fertile, with a film cover on top. Here, young plants will remain until autumn or next spring. As a rule, rooting takes place without complications.. You can plant in open ground in autumn or early spring, and soon you should expect the flowering of a young bush. Reproduction by renewal buds Astilba in garden design Astilba is indispensable in garden design. She is always decorative. in the spring, the first delicate carved leaves unfold, in summer, inflorescences open, and the wind shakes soft fluffy panicles, in autumn, inflorescences are replaced by no less beautiful boxes with seeds, after flowering, the curtain works for itself and becomes simply luxurious. However, in order for it to always look well-groomed, you need to remove dead stems in time. Astilba pruning in early spring There are many options for using astilbe in landscaping. This flower is especially beautiful, since here is its native environment, and it has the opportunity to unfold in all its charm. From tall astilbs, you can make and divide the site into zones. They are beautiful both in single plantings and in groups. The best compositions are obtained with the same beautiful plants who prefer partial shade, like badan, hosta, geykhera, fern, etc. In regions with a cool climate, it is good to plant astilba in a flower bed along with tulips, bluebells, irises, etc. Our flower will also feel great here on an alpine hill, surrounded by saxifrages and survivors. Undersized astilbes are planted in containers along with geraniums and petunias, used in outdoor flowerpots, planted next to garden figurines and make borders out of them. astilba border flowering period different varieties astilbe lasts from June to September, so you can safely create for a long time blooming flower bed only from the collection of these beautiful plants and from them to collect a bouquet of dried flowers for the winter. Diseases and pests Astilba is one of the few plants that almost never gets sick. Most pests are indifferent to it. But there are still some that attack this flower, for example, pennitsa. It is also called a slobbering pennitsa, since the insect finds a secluded place for itself in the axils of astilbe leaves, secretes foamy contents and lays larvae there. Soon the leaves begin to wrinkle, turn yellow and dry out. If you do not take action, the plant may wither. Drooling penny. It is easy to spot the penis, as its nest looks like foaming juice or a clot of saliva. If such lesions are single, then it is better to destroy the nests manually. If the situation is out of control, then you need to use insecticides: kinmix, actellik, akarin and others. Occasionally, but still there is a defeat of astilbe by a strawberry nematode. You can try to compete for the plant by spending 2 - 3 sprayings with an interval of 3 - 5 days mercaptophos, heterophosome, phosphamtide. Signs of nematode damage But most often they get rid of such a plant. Preparing for the winter Astilbes perfectly tolerate our harsh winters. Preparation for wintering consists in applying potash fertilizers and mulching the soil around the plant. Leaves should not be cut. They will create additional shelter for the rhizomes. You can even not remove the flower stalks if they look decorative. In winter, this will be an additional decoration for your garden and a reminder that spring will certainly come. And along with spring, there will also be worries about filling your site with interesting, beautiful and easy-to-care plants. It is this flower that is the astilba. Invite her into your garden and you will never regret it! Continuation of the topic: