Sealant for polyurethane foam. What are the methods for sealing polyurethane foam?

To find out how to protect polyurethane foam, the first thing you need to consider is its operating conditions. Popularity polyurethane sealants extended not only to façade work, but also to interior decoration premises - accordingly, the methods of protecting hardened foam are quite diverse

Polyurethane foam - properties of the material and its varieties

The consumer characteristics of polyurethane foam for sealing long linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed as to how they managed without it before, before the era of developed chemistry. Basic properties of foam sealants include:

Excellent adhesion, and selective in nature. With the main building materials (concrete, brick, cinder blocks, cement, plaster, etc.), polyurethane foam forms a very strong, virtually permanent connection. But it sticks much worse to moisture, ice, polyethylene, silicone and oiled surfaces. This eliminates accidental sealing of foreign elements;
Volumetric primary expansion when the composition “leaves” from the cylinder it reaches 50 times the value, for the most modest manufacturers - no less than 20 times. The process takes only a few minutes and proceeds quickly, with a characteristic hissing and violent filling of the sealed openings. Just one spray is enough to fill deep and long joints. This is very convenient when working at heights, in hard to reach places, at plastering slopes with your own hands, when sealing ventilation pipes, when repairing balconies, etc.
Solid secondary seal. It is not enough to know how to seal the foam - it is important to consider that it changes in volume for several hours after application. For cheap manufacturers, this change is of a shrinkage nature - as a result, gaps may form between the door jamb and the dried foam. High-quality sealants are not characterized by the formation of “slot gaps” after hardening;
The viscosity and full installation volume of polyurethane sealants strongly depend on application conditions - temperature and humidity, the presence of wind, etc. There are “all-season” modifications of foam compositions, but they are optimally used at air temperatures from +5 ˚C to +35 ˚C, moderate humidity and in calm weather.

In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. – hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.

When installing window frames made of wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used; it can be fire-resistant, flammable and self-extinguishing.

When labeling the flammable properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the numerical name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not know that:

B3 is a flammable composition that ignites even better than a wooden frame;
B2 is a self-extinguishing foam, and it can smolder for quite a long time;
B1 – non-flammable mounting composition. Of course, the non-flammable property will affect the price of the sealant in the direction of a significant increase.

The greatest damage to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct Sun rays. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also adversely affects the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the polyurethane foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

How to seal polyurethane foam - preliminary preparation

Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade with repetition. Before you putty the polyurethane foam or tint it upper layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no cracks or delaminations, irregularities in uniformity, etc. Deep lacunae and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants dry yellow or yellowish, this is normal.

First you need to decide how to protect the polyurethane foam - putty, special tape or paint. The fact is that for putty or other “volumetric protection” you will need to cut a recess in the sealant; if you are not used to it, this is difficult. Paints, tape and varnishes are applied to a flat surface;
Using a sharp knife, cut off any excess material protruding beyond the dimensions of the slope or jamb. It is most convenient to take a special shoe knife with an oblique triangular blade - then it is easier to maintain an even cut line. And don’t rush to quickly cut off the sagging. This is dangerous due to accidental cuts to hands, feet and damage to hardened foam or a brand new frame;
After the cutting stage, the grinding procedure begins (it is not needed when puttying seams). The dried foam is cleaned off with a fine sandpaper. You will have to act manually and carefully - grinding mechanical devices can damage the frame, slope, door jamb, etc.

How to protect polyurethane foam - basic repair methods

Any polyurethane foam will decompose when exposed to sunlight. Initially, this looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and falls out of the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even wind is not required to destroy the sun-scorched sealant. The process of “ultraviolet destruction” of polyurethane foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.

Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for overhaul. And replacing windows, doors, installing ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than installation shower tray – with your own hands it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to process it using one of the selected methods:

Putty. How to cover polyurethane foam on windows? Firstly, modified finishing plaster– with the addition of frost-resistant additives. Secondly, special liquid plastic. Thirdly, with ordinary window putty with the addition of liquid glass. All compositions are applied from the bottom up with neat strokes using a regular spatula, the excess is wiped off with a sponge;
Special mounting tape. The fastest and cheapest method of protection is also the most questionable from an aesthetic point of view. Even if you choose the adhesive tape to match the color of the frames, you won’t be able to paint over it (painting compounds will cause the tape to peel off). If you are ready to glue all the joints with new tape every few months, you can try a quick decoration;
Paints and varnishes. Best to choose acrylate coloring composition, it has good adhesion with polyurethane foam. The paint is applied with a thin brush, moving from bottom to top to the corner of the frame or jamb. If you want especially durable protection of the foaming sealant, you can combine putty and acrylate painting - then the service life of the polyurethane foam will be comparable to the durability of the entire house.

Polyurethane foam has a lot of advantages - it is a sealant, a heat insulator, and a fixative. High-quality polyurethane foam does not change its properties for decades, but only under one condition - if you protect it from ultraviolet rays! What could be better in this case than polyurethane foam putty?

If everyone who has ever dealt with construction or repair is familiar with the consumption rates of cement, putty, gypsum and other building materials, then the consumption rate of polyurethane foam is the same backfill question even for many specialists. On two absolutely identical objects, builders can use completely different volumes of polyurethane!

There may be several reasons:

Weather is the first reason to consider. At cold weather from the balloon you will get a much smaller volume of foam than with warm foam. Manufacturers indicate temperature limits on the cylinder and honestly warn about this feature, so complaints can only be made about nature! It is best to carry out work involving polyurethane foam in the warm season, but if there is a need to insulate a building or fill a hole in the wall in winter, use special winter foam - it retains its volume even at low temperatures. Of course, it also has a limit - minus 10 °C.
Manufacturer – you don’t need to think that if you buy the same number of foam cans from different manufacturers, you are buying the same amount of foam. You can't tell the difference by eye, but the weight will give it away! Take cylinders from different manufacturers in your hands, and you will feel how some are an order of magnitude lighter, which means there is much less foam. So you won’t be able to save money on cheap products - you will pay for gas, and in the end it will turn out that it was more profitable to buy a more expensive but high-quality cylinder.
The method of application - the volume of foam, or rather, the volume of work performed, depends on this factor no less than on the first two. There are two ways to apply foam: through an adapter tube, which comes complete with so-called household cylinders, and through, which is purchased separately for special cylinders with appropriate valves.
The second method is also called professional, but in fact it would be much more correct to call it economical. It's simple - the gun very clearly regulates the supply of foam (speed, thickness of the strip), thus reducing material consumption, while household cylinders give out the volume of foam, as they say, over the top. Professionals know that blowing one door frame requires 1.5 foam cylinders with a valve under mounting gun, A household cylinders you'll get all four!
Banal theft - alas, but you can’t argue with human nature. Selling unused building materials is a great way for a builder to make extra money. The only way to control it is to be present when the work is done. There can be many excuses for this, for example, say that you want to install a window in the barn yourself and would like to learn from a professional. If you need to supervise a team, put a person you trust in charge. It is impossible to completely eradicate this phenomenon, but theft will decrease.

If we take into account all factors, we can obtain some average consumption value. If the manufacturer indicated a volume of 60 liters on the cylinder, in fact this means that you can use a maximum of 48 - the rest may simply remain inside the cylinder due to a lack of gas that pushes the material out.

With an installation seam width from 20 mm to 70 mm and a depth of up to 125 mm, foam consumption per 1 meter of seam will range from 13 cm 3 to 100 cm 3. It turns out that for 1 meter of seam it can take from 1/5 of the cylinder to 1 ¾. To reduce costs, you can use joint fillers such as polystyrene foam. In some cases this is even necessary!

If we talk about consumption per 1 m2, then costs will increase significantly - by square meter The area required varies from 1 to 5 cylinders, depending on the thickness of the layer. Depending on your goals, you can also reduce costs due to the cheapness of the material, when quality and characteristics are not particularly important to you. For example, for sound insulation there is no point in spending money on high-quality foam; even the cheapest Chinese foam will do the job. But if you decide to use foam as glue, then it is better to choose the highest quality - in any case, the consumption in such cases is small.

Is it possible to putty polyurethane foam and what to putty it with - there are answers to both of these questions! Foam can and should be protected with putty or plaster, and fortunately, these materials are good friends with each other. It is necessary to plaster, first of all, where one of two conditions must be met:

Fire safety - in this case the plaster layer should be about 8 cm! And the foam itself must be fire-resistant (class B1) and withstand exposure to an open source of fire from two to four hours. It is advisable that the foam be from a certified manufacturer. If these conditions are met, you will be able to avoid sanctions from the fire inspectorate.
Decorative appearance - this is all clear. Putty by polyurethane foam provides not only protection, but also hides the contents of your walls from prying eyes, giving the renovation a complete look. If you want to provide additional protection from mechanical damage, use drywall.

So, let's get to work.

How to putty polyurethane foam - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Level the foam

Foam traditionally has a wave-like structure and when it expands, its excess sticks out in the most unusual positions. Puttying or plastering on such a surface will not work, so first trim the dried material (at least 7-12 hours after application). If plaster is used to protect the foam, the seam must be further deepened by a few centimeters.

Step 2: Apply the tape

To protect a clean surface from stains, apply masking tape around the perimeter. The tape should be removed when the plaster has already been applied, smoothed and slightly dried.

Step 3: Working with the mixture

For work on polyurethane foam, almost any mixture will suit you, but the mixture has proven itself best Rotband. Following the instructions on the package, knead and carefully, working with a spatula, apply the mixture to the foam.

Step 4: Grout

When the material has dried, the unevenness is smoothed over with construction mesh or sandpaper. Good polyurethane foam can withstand pressure well, so you don’t have to be afraid to use force, as when grouting. ordinary plaster.

It is not always advisable to spend money on purchasing plaster mixture and wages to workers. But you should still think about it - some methods are inexpensive, but no less effective than plastering. In addition, if the foam has a dense structure, on a clean cut it will have a rather nice appearance, which means that the “decorative” issue will not be so acute.

For cutting, it is best to use a foam saw - it has special teeth that do not tear the material.

When this is inconvenient, use with a regular knife with a sharpened blade. After trimming the foam, use coarse sanding paper to try to sand down problem areas with protrusions. Then you can use regular paint, preferably white or light colors. Modern compositions have special pigments that provide additional protection from ultraviolet radiation, but even completely ordinary floor paint in several layers will perfectly protect the foam from direct sunlight.

Roofing felt, sheets of metal, boards - all this can be used to protect polyurethane foam. If decorative look you don’t care at all, and the foam is under constant shadow, it can be left uncovered - air and moisture have practically no effect on it.

How to seal polyurethane foam - why is this necessary?

The secret of popularity of this material contained in its composition, as well as in its performance characteristics. Polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant, the main components of which are polyol and isocyanate. Manufacturers also add various auxiliary substances to the composition: foaming agent, stabilizer, catalyst, etc.

The main characteristics of foam are: adhesion, output volume, viscosity, primary and secondary expansion. Based on its composition, this building material is divided into two-component and one-component mixtures. In addition, foam can be professional and household, summer, winter and all-season.

But few people know that this multifunctional material itself requires protection. Sun rays and moisture have a detrimental effect on polyurethane foam. Manufacturers do not forget to indicate this on foam cans. Maybe users read these recommendations...

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1 Polyurethane foam - properties of the material and its varieties?

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Excellent adhesion, and selective in nature. With the main building materials (concrete, brick, cinder blocks, cement, plaster, etc.), polyurethane foam forms a very strong, virtually permanent connection. But it sticks much worse to moisture, ice, polyethylene, silicone and oiled surfaces. This eliminates accidental sealing of foreign elements; The volumetric primary expansion when the composition “leaves” the cylinder reaches 50 times, and for the most modest manufacturers - no less than 20 times. The process takes only a few minutes and proceeds...

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How to seal polyurethane foam?

How to seal polyurethane foam

After installing windows, doors, or when joining building slabs, an eternal question arises, namely: how to seal the foam? The answer is simple: you can seal it using sealant, putty, paint, plaster and other mixtures. We will consider a more detailed answer on puttying polyurethane foam below.

The secret of the popularity of polyurethane foam lies in its composition; the fact is that polyurethane foam has a polyol in its structure, as well as an isocyanate. In addition, the developers add a foaming agent, stabilizer and dye to the composition. Moreover, sometimes the dye comes out as a kind of “teg spoon”, because when the polyurethane foam is covered with white plaster, after a few years, if the operating conditions are not met, it begins to stain the plaster. Therefore, before purchasing foam, you need to carefully read the composition and choose foam without dye.

By the way, improper operating conditions usually include excessive room humidity,...

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How to cover polyurethane foam - effective and available methods 15.10.2013

How to cover polyurethane foam is a common and important question. After all, when it is necessary to install PVC windows, polyurethane foam has gained significant popularity due to its important operational advantages. In terms of its composition, polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant; the main components of the material include isocyanate and polyol. Also, the production composition of polyurethane foam is supplemented with various auxiliary components - stabilizer, foaming agent, catalyst, etc.

The main characteristics of polyurethane foam are viscosity, output volume, adhesion, primary and secondary expansion. This construction material Depending on the composition, it can be presented in the form of one-component or two-component mixtures. It is possible to divide the polyurethane foam according to its intended purpose - household, professional, winter, summer, all-season.

We cover the installation seams - the foam requires proper...

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How to plaster polyurethane foam?

There are cavities, for example, sockets, filled with polyurethane foam. How to plaster them? What mixtures stick to polyurethane foam?

Very often, foam is used to seal joints when installing new plastic windows. In this case, the sealing procedure is slightly different. The foam is also cut off with a knife. Next, the joint filled with foam is sealed with wide hydro and steam insulating tape, with adhesive and sticky layer. This tape has a layer of foil, so it also creates a heat insulating screen. Now the entire joint on both sides of the window is sprayed with primer, which contains an antifungal compound that prevents the formation of mold. And now, when the primer has dried, you can safely apply the plaster with a rubber spatula. Good producers, these are Ceresit, Knauf Rotband and Vetonit.

In general, it is advisable to seal the foam at the joint. To do this, apply a two-component rubber sealant...

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After installing windows and doors, owners and finishing craftsmen often ask themselves the question - how to seal the polyurethane foam? You can cover it up using putty, sealant, paint and other materials. It is important to do this correctly, using the appropriate methodology, which we will describe below.

If you need a professional master, use the VotMaster.ru exchange. Selection of a master for any work. Reviews, ratings, photos

Polyurethane foam - a convenient material?

Learning to use foam correctly

Today, polyurethane foam is used in many construction work. It is a polyurethane foam two- or one-component sealant, which is available in a special aerosol can. Applicable in two cases:

For thermal insulation; sealing seams.

Suitable for materials such as wood, glass, metal, concrete. The main component of the foam is polyurethane, which was first created by Bayer in 1947. In the 70-80s...

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If from the inside, then you need to make normal slopes - sheet ones (sold in stores). Plaster slopes with Fuller or Rotband will crack after the first winter. Plastic windows have a high coefficient of thermal expansion; they will slide along the slope and a crack will appear. Thin, but see-through. Wooden windows cracks are not made in the slope. If from the street, then cover the foam with glue for tiles, it is elastic even after setting - it will not crack, it has been tested on more than one window. It is necessary to seal the foam from the street, it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, you can’t repair it, in a year it will turn brown, in another year it will begin to crumble and the effect from it will be zero. Temporarily, you can simply paint over the foam from the street in several layers, using whatever paint you have (not watercolor, of course). By the way, the paint can be periodically renewed, then you don’t have to cover it with a solution, the main thing is that the foam doesn’t get exposed to ultraviolet...

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Konstantin3_ (25.6.2008, 0:37) wrote:

Whether they installed it or not, I don’t know, I didn’t watch the installation, when I stand on the window sill, it seems to sag a couple of millimeters. On the edge, where the window sill protrudes into the room (nine centimeters), the deflection is even a little stronger. There is a concern that the plaster layer, which will actually be located under the edge, will crack?
I have already cut the mounting foam deep. Thanks for the advice about the tile adhesive, I'll look into it.
It will crack anyway.
I would recommend fugenfühler or uniflot, but you can also use tile adhesive (it may crack) and even gypsum plaster(rotband).
When the doors were being installed, I spied on the movers.
I want to use the technology for slopes and foam sealing.
The putty should not be applied right next to the window sill (moving element), but leave a gap of 3-5mm; you can put fiberboard underneath to make it smoother.
After the putty has cured, fill the gap with sealant or cover it with plastic...

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Valentina Gorbunova(Lokaziuk)
Please tell me how and with what to seal the places under the window sill where the foam is visible after installing the plastic windows. And foam is also visible outside, already orange color.

Kostya G
Actually, this is a jamb of window installers. It's a hack, a defect. Or they should have warned, saying that we are doing our job, and you can straighten out the details yourself. Anyway.
The polyurethane foam is cut off or dug out with a knife a centimeter and a half deep into the wall, so that only a gap remains. There, into this gap, we push the solution. I won’t tell you the brand here, we have different names. But you can use a cement-based, gypsum-based or combination mortar. I would use the latter, where there is gypsum (alabaster) and cement and sand. So, we fill these cracks with a spatula, so that it doesn’t stick out from the wall. By the way, before filling, the surface must be dusted (preferably with a vacuum cleaner) and moistened with water. In some cases, it may not be harmful to treat with a primer...

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The Cherkassy Municipal Forum is categorically opposed to the introduction of Russian troops into the territory of sovereign Ukraine. No “humanitarian convoys”, “diplomatic routes”, “polite people” or “lost paratroopers” can justify the military invasion of the Russian prisons by destabilizing our both the extremities and the support of the separatists.

Donbass is Ukraine, Crimea is Ukraine, and there is war in Ukraine.

Therefore, we call on everyone to unite for the sake of victory - victory! Let us help our army seize our land and throw the dead beyond the border. For whom a separate section has been created on the forum

Url Hidden, where everyone can help our military defend our land.

Together we can overcome! Glory...

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How to cover polyurethane foam - creating the ideal solution 01/09/2013

How to cover polyurethane foam is a question that Lately occurs often. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the polyurethane foam, which at some point may not cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up the polyurethane foam without special costs time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metals require plastic windows.

How to cover polyurethane foam - reliable protection Rehau windows for a long time

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Material from Wikipedia - the free encyclopedia

Mounting foam is a polyurethane foam sealant. The foam consists of 2 main components - methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) and polyols. In the production of foam, various auxiliary means are used: catalysts, blowing agents, stabilizers, etc. Terms often used when describing foam:

Prepolymer: - a product formed by chemical reaction connections between the hydroxyl ends of polyalcohols and the isocyanate groups of MDI that occurred inside the balloon. Propellant (from the English propellant - propellant gas): - a mixture of gases located in a cylinder, partly in the gas phase, partly liquefied, partly dissolved in a prepolymer. The propellant performs two main functions: pushing the prepolymer out of the container and creating foam bubbles. Polyurethane foam (household). Hardened polyurethane foam, a display item at an exhibition.

Foam characteristics:

Foam output volume: characterized by the amount...

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The quick hardening of the polyurethane foam promotes strong adhesion, so it is quite difficult to clean.

It can be a very annoying situation when, when installing a door, it is not possible to achieve the accuracy during foaming that one would like. So, the door is dirty with polyurethane foam. And the question immediately arises: how to clean the polyurethane foam? A person unprepared in this matter will miss valuable time, and it will be much more difficult to clean the surface after the composition has hardened. The composition that has not yet hardened is much easier to clean. Therefore, when planning work in which it is intended to use polyurethane foam, you should worry about cleaning it in advance, which is an indispensable condition for using foam.

It is well known that this product includes polyurethane foam, which has a high degree of adhesion (setting). Adhesion is considered an important characteristic, and thanks to this property, foam has found its use in the installation of doors and windows....

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Door installation

One of the indicators correct installation the door is that when opening the door leaf remains motionless in any position, that is, no matter in what position we leave the door leaf, spontaneous opening or closing of the door does not occur. This can only be achieved with strict vertical installation doors. Door hinges must be lubricated and positioned vertically. If the door is installed vertically, and the hinges are deviated from the vertical, the door leaf will “pull” the hinges and it will open or close. When cutting into attachments, pay attention to this. Most often, the hinges “pull” the door when the cutting depth into the frame or door leaf is not the same. If such a defect is detected, then you need to either “sink” all the hinges to the same depth, or place wood chips under the “recessed” hinge.

The second indicator is correct installed door is the same thickness of the slot in the door vestibule. Door leaf must clearly fit into...

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You must work with polyurethane foam carefully, since it strongly sticks to the surface. When you make repairs using it, then along with all the current questions, the question will arise of how to wash the polyurethane foam. Let's say right away that this is not easy to do.

It is easiest to deal with foam that has not yet hardened. It is carefully removed with a sharp object until it sticks to the surface. When 10-15 minutes have passed since it got on clothes, the cleaning process becomes more complicated.

Mechanical method

There is no point in washing off foam from work clothes that already have a lot of difficult stains. In relation to it, perform the following simple actions:

Cut with a knife; scrape off with a blade or stiff brush; wipe with acetone.

But what if she ended up wearing a practically new tracksuit, jeans or shirt? In this case, you want to wash off the yellow marks so that no trace remains of them. Do we have a chance?

Freezer

Put...

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If previously they used to fill construction cavities cement mortar or mineral wool strips, today the old materials have been replaced by polyurethane foam. It is much more convenient and much more practical. The foam is easy to apply and is capable of filling even the smallest cracks and cracks. It is easy to use as it is immediately ready for use. It is distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties. And thanks to its astringent properties, foam is even used for gluing various insulating materials on walls or ceilings.

After the door frame has already been installed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally, you can begin to secure it with polyurethane foam. First you need to protect door frame, since foam that gets on the surface will then be very difficult to remove. You can try to remove still “fresh” foam with a solvent or some alcohol-containing liquid. But hardened foam can only be removed mechanically. That's why...

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How to cover polyurethane foam is a question that has arisen quite often lately. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the polyurethane foam, which at some point may not cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up polyurethane foam without much time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metal-plastic windows need.

How to cover polyurethane foam- reliable window protectionRehau for a long time

Polyurethane foam, as a result of exposure to moisture, light and other factors, loses its qualities after some time. Including, the foam will dry out, gradually gaining moisture. There should also be a violation of the thermal insulation features. Therefore, experts recommend thinking in advance about slopes and sealing foam on the outside and under the window sill. Slopes in windows are of great importance - after all, they make it possible to hide the presence of assembly seams, contributing to the long-term operation of the entire structure as a whole. First of all, you should determine optimal material for slopes.

The simplest option is dry mixtures. The slope can be made using standard plaster. But this option initially requires preparation of the wall for the material. If there are large cracks, it is necessary to apply a layer of mortar to the wall using a special mixture. Among the necessary tools, it should be noted: putty for external work, gloves, a small knife, trowel, water and a container for the solution.

How to cover polyurethane foam- proven set of actions

Cut off excess dried foam from the outside of the joints. When using putty to seal, it is recommended to cut the mounting foam several millimeters deep to create a thicker layer of sealant on the outside. Recommended Smooth surface frozen foam.

Next, wearing gloves, we prepare a sealant solution for exterior work. For this we don’t need a lot of solution, so it would be better to mix less, then you can add as needed. Instructions for preparing the solution are contained on the packaging of the material.

The putty is applied using a knife or trowel - we choose it taking into account personal preferences and the location of the seal, and level the surface. After a very thin layer of putty dries, cracks may occur. To avoid such a nuisance, it is better to apply a layer of solution of several millimeters - taking into account appearance the buildings.

This makes it possible to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to the sun's rays, which can lead to a destructive effect. Thanks to this, it is also possible to protect the foam from moisture, which, when penetrated from the outside, leads to destruction of slopes and other elements of the connection. The aesthetics of the building are also improved.

Best effect white slope is achieved using a water-based mixture for plastering. The work is carried out using special tools. A slope made from plaster mixtures will be an excellent choice for the outside.

Slopes from plastic panel

It is much easier to make a slope from a plastic panel. From a large panel according to the dimensions of the slope, pieces should be cut for 3 sides of the window. A special plastic strip secures the panel to the window.

The side panels are installed at an angle of 90-110 degrees relative to the window. Each panel is fastened to the wall, with mounting foam filling the gap between the old slope and the window - for better insulation. After the foam has dried, we get rid of the dried residues. We close the resulting gap between the panel and the wall by tightly fitting the F-shaped rail.

Plasterboard slopes are made like plastic ones. Installation can be done in two ways - installing prepared panels on a profile or gluing them with glue. Thermal insulation is ensured thanks to the insulated mineral wool. After installation, the plasterboard panels are treated with a primer. Next comes painting. To ensure a completely even corner, a painting steel corner is glued to the plasterboard corner using putty.

All this proves the possibility of using various methods when finishing slopes of PVC windows. Today, plastic windows remain the preferred option, which become a guarantee excellent properties hydro- and thermal insulation, durability and reliability. Usage plasterboard slopes promotes heat retention and moisture resistance. But plastering slopes as a finishing is outdated, given the rather weak protective properties, which are not enough for modern windows PVC.

How to cover polyurethane foam- professional help, confidence in every decision

Still, working with window and door structures requires some training and experience for reliability and quality of the result. Therefore, for many, it is preferable to turn to professionals who can guarantee the stated result according to affordable prices- the company’s website always provides information about services, detailed information can be clarified by managers. We seal installation seams and carry out related work according to modern quality standards.

After installing windows, doors, and when joining building slabs, an eternal question arises, namely: how to seal polyurethane foam? The answer is simple: you can seal it using sealant, putty, paint, plaster and other mixtures. We will consider a more detailed answer on puttying polyurethane foam below.

By the way, incorrect operating conditions usually include excessive humidity in the room where foam is used or, conversely, active sunlight.

To prevent the polyurethane foam from cracking, starting to dry out and losing its heat-shielding properties, it must be covered with a sealant or protective paint!

How to plaster polyurethane foam

So, now let's figure out how to plaster polyurethane foam. The process begins with removing excess material, that is, we cut off the excess foam with a knife or cutter, and then go deeper inside by 5 - 7 millimeters! More is not necessary, because if the area is large, then the consumption of plaster will be too high, but less is not advisable, because otherwise the plaster may not adhere well and gradually peel off.

Selecting putty and preparing the mixture

The second question that faces us is what kind of plaster we need to choose, but this is also a solvable problem. It is best to choose a frost-resistant putty that will not succumb to climatic influences. If you are interested in the name, then we recommend you the putty brand - ROTBAND. Also note that it is necessary to prepare the putty mixture 5-10 minutes before direct use. Instructions for preparing the solution are always written on back side packaging, but the classic use of plaster is: add the mixture to water and stir until there are no lumps; if they still appear, you need to add a little more warm water.

After preparing the plaster, we need to apply the mixture to the foam. We repeat once again that a layer of at least 6 mm must be applied. Because with a thin layer, the plaster can simply crack, and this can result in the work being redone. Before the plaster dries completely, you need to take fine-grained sandpaper or construction mesh and level the surface.