Do-it-yourself wooden tub drawings. Barrel manufacturing technology. Oak barrel repair

Do-it-yourself oak barrel, product drawings. Before proceeding with production, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with GOST 8777-80, which establishes the main dimensions and parameters for jellied and dry wooden barrels.

Consider an example, making a container of 15 liters, which will consist of twenty rivets.

Klepka.
Donets.
Morning hoop.
The hoop is fart.

The entire manufacturing process can be conditionally divided into four stages.

Stage I. Dimensions and parameters of the barrel.

To do this, depending on the volume of the product:

From table No. 1 we select the main parameters and dimensions

From table number 2, select the dimensions of the rivets

From table number 3, select the number of metal hoops

By simple geometric constructions, we draw a riveting.

The length of the riveting in unfolded form is determined by the formula: l = 2πRα/360

Substitute the values and get l \u003d 2 x 3.14 x 1282.04 x 15.69 / 360 \u003d 350.9(mm)

We determined the dimensions of the blanks for riveting, which amounted to 18 x 46 x 351(mm)

Stage II. Donets manufacturing.

We accept the sizes indicated in tables No. 1, No. 2.

Riveting connection on the rail.
Marking and cutting out a circle.
Removing bevels.

Stage III. Making a hoop.

Marking on sheet metal.
cutting sheet metal thickness 1…2 (mm).
The connection of the hoop with rivets.
Hoop forging.

Stage IV. Assembly sequence oak barrel.

Attaching three rivets to the hoop and inserting the rest
Installing a neckband.
Steaming rivets.
Pulling the rivets with a collar.
Installation of the morning hoop.
Skeleton assembly.
Bottom insert.
Installation of the morning hoop.

Do-it-yourself oak barrel made according to the drawings is an excellent vessel for many years of aging alcoholic beverages and harvesting pickles for the winter.

Wood species - which one to choose for making a barrel

Elasticity, bending flexibility.
Easily processed with household tools.

When the temperature rises, it will resin abundantly.
The characteristic smell that will always be present inside the barrel.

Recommendation

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

It bends beautifully after the tree is well steamed.
Contains fungicides that protect structural elements barrels from decay.

High material cost. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use a tree that is at least 80-100 years old.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, you can also use such types of wood as linden, ash, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material is a rather specific issue. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (salting) of cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then the best tree for her - oak. This is undeniable. But it is hardly correct to spend such wood (given its cost) on making a container with your own hands, in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products. Other breeds, “simpler”, are quite suitable for these purposes.

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and installation location, the dimensions and design features. In everyday life there is some confusion with the concepts. In principle, both the tub and the barrel are containers of a certain capacity, which are assembled manually from separate boards (staves, fret in the language of professionals). The difference is only in the geometry. The pictures explain everything well.

What is defined for the drawing:

Barrel height
Diameters (large and small).
The bending angle of the rivets and their number.

To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on typical data that are used by specialists when drawing up barrel drawings.

Do-it-yourself wooden barrel - instructions

The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which show the main stages of work.

But separate explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made from logs or boards. The first option is preferable, although its implementation by hand is much more difficult. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk goes to the manufacture of the barrel, from the roots to the branches. You will have to chop logs (decks) on your own.

What is the feature?

The ax blade must hit exactly in the center, along the diametral line. This will somewhat facilitate the work and allow you to get high-quality rivets in larger quantities (based on each deck).

Boards are obtained by splitting, hewing chocks. Wood processing is always carried out along the fibers, and not across.

It is advisable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets.

To facilitate bending, the rivets are given an irregular geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by about 0.2. That is, if it is supposed to assemble a barrel from 10 mm boards with your own hands, then they are hewn with the expectation that their thickness in the lower and upper parts of the container is at least 12.

Drying staves

Various sources indicate terms that are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). At this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, the initial moisture content of the wood and its porosity. Recommendations for artificially accelerating this process when doing do-it-yourself work are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine optimal mode for the same electric / cabinet and the exposure time of the tree in it. Experienced craftsmen it is advised to wait until the moisture evaporates from the wood naturally.

It is only necessary to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel "in one day" is not made, and this must be understood.

If we are talking about a container for household purposes, then you can dry the staves even on the stove. But in any case, from raw boards barrel is not assembled. After a couple of weeks (due to shrinkage of the wood), gaps will begin to appear between them. Checked.

Fundamentals of Cooperage

In order to master the work of a cooper and make your first tub, you need not only desire, but also a room for work, the right materials and tools and fixtures.

Reviews from the network about the oak barrel

beech. Less wear resistant, but looks nice, and as an alternative, it will do,

conifers trees (spruce, cedar, pine). They are soaked for a long time before use, as they release a resin that affects the taste. But the soaking procedure does not always help. But they are great for fonts and baths. Spruce barrels are suitable for salting mushrooms.

Types of cooperage utensils and their corresponding types of staves

All the dishes made by the cooper are made from special small boards of wood, which are called staves. The size and configuration of such dishes depends directly on the size of these rivets.

The following types of staves correspond to different types of cooperage utensils:

What tools are needed

For the manufacture of wooden barrels with your own hands you need to purchase a certain list of tools and fixtures:

carpentry workbench,
cooper jointer. Choose the longer one
circular humpback planer,
devices for planing the edges of boards,
frame machine-gate (for tightening rivets),
chain tie,
pillar gate,
plow,
bracket and bracket,
patterns and templates. Determine the shape and dimensions of the manufactured barrel,
clamps made of metal and wood,
morning. Necessary for cutting the morning groove into which the bottom is inserted,
metal, wood or combined heels,
hoop pull,
staples for cooperage,
planers and hatchets of various sizes.

How to make a tub for pickles

It is best to start dealing with cooperage products from the barrel, since the technology for its manufacture is simpler. The most popular tub dimensions (bottom diameter / height / top diameter in mm):

280x300x260 with a capacity of 12 liters (bucket),
360x390x340 for 36 liters,
420x460x400 for 42 liters,
440x500x420 for 72 liters,
460x560x440 for 96 liters,
540x570x520 for 120 liters,
600x700x580 for 180 liters.

For the first production, it is better to choose a tub small size.

Riveting

It is best to make staves from the bottom of old trees (staves). Firewood will also be quite suitable. Raw straight-grained wood is most suitable for riveting.

In the manufacture of rivets, the following steps are performed:

The chock is chosen 5-6 cm longer than the height of the rivets. Then carefully cut it in half with an ax. Each half, in turn, is pricked in half again, and so on until the blanks of the desired thickness are obtained. During such splitting, it is important to hit the core and it is good if there are core rays along which splits can be made. Since you can’t just get into the core with an ax, it is installed on the end of the chock in the right direction and hit from above with a checkmar (a large wooden mallet). Thin chocks are usually pricked into eight parts (single-row method). Rivets are prepared from thick chocks in two rows (two-row method). For this, 1/8 part is pricked in half along the annual ring. From the half of the smaller size, usually 1-2 blanks are obtained, and from the larger part 5-6 pieces are obtained.
A wedge of wood is cut from the blanks from the side of the core and bark with young wood from the outside of the blank. As a result of such splitting, planks should be rectangular in cross section. Their thickness should be 2.5-3 cm, and the width - 8-10 cm. For the bottom, boards 15 cm wide are needed.
The blanks should be well dried. Usually they have 3 months of summer or a month in a well-ventilated room.
Make a template, taking into account that the taper (bottom to top ratio) of the shell is 1.08, but for greater decorativeness it is sometimes increased to 1.7-1.8. An old riveting from a shell can also serve as a template. The number of staves for a tub or barrel is calculated according to the formula 3.14 * L / W, where D is the diameter of the bottom of the tub, and W is the width of the bottom of the stave. Since the width of the rivets may differ slightly, it is easiest to calculate the perimeter of the bottom (3.14 * D) and try them on a segment of the appropriate length.
Make markings on the board.
The edges are beveled with an ax, and the outer surface is slightly rounded.
The outer side is processed on a cooper's bench with a straight plow. If you have a carpentry workbench, you can use a planer. In this process, you need to constantly check with the template.
planing inner part fillet riveting. You can use a humpback bracket. The smaller the product diameter, the deeper the gutter.
The narrow edges of the boards are cut with an ax, controlling the dimensions with a template.
Align the same edges with a jointer. The accuracy of the jointer determines how tightly the rivets will fit together.

Assembly of the skeleton

Now we proceed to assemble the product in the following sequence:

They make the skeleton of the future tub by attaching three supporting rivets to a smaller hoop at an equal distance from each other.
Other rivets are inserted between them, filling the entire structure. If the last plank is not included, it should be hewn to right size. If it is less than necessary, then you should use the stock of riveting boards and make a riveting of the desired size.
With the help of a heel and a hammer, they upset the hoop so that all the rivets close tightly with each other.
The lower hoop is pulled onto the resulting structure, which has larger size. Perform the previous operation to close the elements.
The resulting skeleton is trimmed. To do this, along the edges with a thickness gauge, mark the risk to indicate the excess to be removed. Then, according to this risk, they saw off all the excess with a saw.
All the irregularities inside the product are scraped out with a special bracket, paying special attention to the joints between the rivets.
The edges of the resulting product are planed with a humpback planer.
On the inner sides, along the edges of straight plows, they chamfer to prevent chipping of the ends and facilitate the process of inserting the bottom.
With the help of a morning timer below with inside a special groove (chime) of about 3 mm is cut into which the bottom will be inserted. You can use a cutter.

Assembly of the skeleton

Barrel soaking

Before use, the oak barrel should be soaked to get rid of excess tannins, which can affect the taste too much. To do this, follow these steps:

The product is filled hot water(about 80 °C).
The barrel rotates in different directions so that all interior wood soaked in hot water.
The water drains.
Filled to the top cold water for a day.
The water is replaced by fresh water and this is repeated for two weeks.

Examples of creative ideas for using barrels

Now eco-style is in fashion, so the use of wooden barrels in the interior is very important. Often choose such cooperage products when selling design ideas for giving. So from the barrels you can make a mini-bar for alcoholic beverages. To do this, you can cut out a part of the barrel on the side and attach a handle on top.

From a wooden wine barrel you can make a table for a living room or a veranda. For this purpose, it is cut into two equal parts and filled with hay or other materials suitable for design. A round glass is placed on top. Under the glass, you can lay out various items that fit the interior (corks, cones, shells, etc.). Instead of glass, you can take wood. It will also look very stylish.
You can use this product as a floor pot for indoor plants, as well as for growing flowers on personal plot. If you put the barrel on its side and place it on wooden supports, then it can be used as a dog house. She will protect well. watchdog from rain and cold.

You can make an unusual sink. To do this, you need to choose the appropriate washbasin and place it on top of this cooperage product. It will look good if the bathroom or kitchen is made of wood or materials that imitate it. If the barrel is cut into pieces (about 15-20 cm) and placed on the wall, and placed inside wooden partitions, then you get an interesting organizer for storing various items.

Musicians can transform a kick drum into a stylish drum by pulling on matching material. If you cut off a part of the barrel from the side and hang it on the ropes by the edges, you will get a cute cradle for the baby. Wooden crafts can also be converted to garden furniture- table, armchairs, chairs, etc.

If you decide to do cooperage, you can provide yourself with the necessary and beautiful household items that can be used for various purposes (for pickles, wine, decor). This business can become a profitable business, but it is quite difficult and should be started by a person who has certain skills in working with wood.

Preparation of moonshine and alcohol for personal use
absolutely legal!

After the demise of the USSR, the new government stopped the fight against moonshine. Criminal liability and fines were abolished, and an article prohibiting the production of alcohol-containing products at home was removed from the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. To this day, there is not a single law that prohibits you and me from engaging in our favorite hobby - making alcohol at home. This is evidenced by the Federal Law of July 8, 1999 No. 143-FZ "On the administrative responsibility of legal entities (organizations) and individual entrepreneurs for offenses in the field of production and circulation of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products" (Collection of Legislation Russian Federation, 1999, N 28, art. 3476).

Extract from federal law RF:

"The effect of this Federal Law does not apply to the activities of citizens (individuals) who do not produce products containing ethyl alcohol for the purpose of marketing."

Moonshine in other countries:

In Kazakhstan in accordance with the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan On Administrative Offenses dated January 30, 2001 N 155, the following liability is provided. Thus, according to article 335 “Manufacture and sale of home-made alcoholic beverages”, illegal production for the purpose of selling moonshine, chacha, mulberry vodka, mash and other alcoholic beverages, as well as the sale of these alcoholic beverages, entails a fine in the amount of thirty monthly calculation indices with confiscation of alcoholic beverages , apparatus, raw materials and equipment for their manufacture, as well as money and other valuables received from their sale. However, the law does not prohibit the preparation of alcohol for personal purposes.

In Ukraine and Belarus things are different. Articles No. 176 and No. 177 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of Ukraine provide for the imposition of fines in the amount of three to ten tax-free minimum wages for the manufacture and storage of moonshine without the purpose of sale, for the storage without the purpose of sale of apparatus * for its production.

Article 12.43 repeats this information practically word for word. “Production or purchase of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), storage of devices for their production” in the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Administrative Offenses. Item number 1 says: "Manufacturing individuals strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their manufacture (mash), as well as storage of devices * used for their manufacture - entails a warning or a fine in the amount of up to five basic units with confiscation of these drinks, semi-finished products and devices.

*Purchase moonshine stills for home use it is still possible, since their second purpose is the distillation of water and the preparation of components for natural cosmetics and perfumery.

Especially for the "Craftsmen" website, Vladimir Nikolayevich shares the "technology" of making a 25-liter oak barrel. How to make a barrel with your own hands, read on.

How to make a barrel with your own hands

In the spring he brought material from the forest, sawed it and covered it with sawdust in the basement, leaving it to dry for the whole summer. Soon we will get a wooden barrel with our own hands.

Churbak d 50 and 42 cm high neatly split into four parts. From quarters, gently tapping with a mallet on the butt (photo 1), pricked 14 blanks for riveting about 3 cm thick.

Important! The split should go radially so that the tree does not crack in the future.

I processed the blanks with homemade chips from all sides, making them slightly concave (photo 2). With a plane, he gave smoothness, at the same time narrowing at the top and bottom (photo 3).

For the uniformity of barrels of this volume, the master made two mounting hoops (the middle one is slightly larger diameter). There is also the main hoop-shutter, which Vladimir Nikolayevich guards like the apple of his eye: he does not knock on it with a sledgehammer and constantly checks its evenness with a pattern drawn on the table, because the future “face” of the barrel depends on the correctness of the circle.

On the shutter, with the help of special brackets made of hoop iron, I fixed three rivets (photo 4). Continued assembling the barrel, filling the perimeter. Tapping lightly on the hoop with a hammer, he reined it in and checked whether the edges of the rivets were tightly connected. Then planted the middle hoop (photo 5).

On a note. In order to achieve contact of the rivets along the entire length of the side surface, it is necessary to accurately calculate the width and number of blanks, based on the future diameter of the homemade barrel.

After fitting two hoops, the rest of the barrel must be pulled off. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. But Vladimir Nikolaevich came up with his own original structure for the screed, which he calls the "goat".

I fixed a winch on a U-shaped metal frame turned upside down. I installed the barrel on the crossbar, wrapped the loose part of the frame with a cable and carefully pulled it off with a winch (photo 6).

Planted the third hoop on a wooden barrel (photo 7) and removed it from the "goat".

With a special chisel with a groove at the flat end, lowered the hoop as low as possible (photo 8).

I put the barrel to dry in the barn, heating the stove for no more than two hours a day.

After two weeks he continued to work. I cleaned the outer sides of the product with a straight plow. I made 4 hoops in two sizes from black-painted steel. Having removed the middle mounting hoop, I stuffed a permanent one at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom. Trimmed both sides of the barrel with an electric jigsaw (photo 9). Installed two more hoops at the top. Leveled the inner surface with shaped plows (photo 10). With a homemade chime with four teeth from a saw, I cut a groove 5-6 mm deep around the circumference (photo 11).

I assembled the bottom for the barrel from prepared boards, connecting with stainless galvanized nails without hats.

To prevent leakage, I first laid the ends with strips of cattail (photo 12)- the first secret received from the craftsman Belov.

I calculated the size of the bottom as follows: I marked a point near the groove and, having estimated the approximate radius of the barrel in this place, set aside six radii along the groove with a compass, as if inscribing a hexagon in a circle. To start and finish exactly at the intended point, it is necessary to select the radius empirically. The size thus obtained was indicated by a compass on a shield assembled from boards (photo 13). I cut it with a circular cutter along the intended circle (photo 14).

Clutching the bottom in a homemade stavlyug (vice for weight support), he made a bevel around the entire perimeter with a plow (photo 15).

He put a soaked white bun in the groove - the second secret from Belov against a leak.

Do-it-yourself oak barrels video

A do-it-yourself wooden barrel made will allow not only to save money, but also to get a high-quality elegant product. Barrels made of wood were used by our ancestors for pickles, making alcoholic beverages and storing water, which proved their versatility. Therefore, they are still successfully used today. How to make a wooden barrel so that it is durable and does not leak? What tools and skills are required to make a barrel at home?

If you are determined to achieve your goal and are not afraid that you will have to refine the product to the desired state, then you can make your dream come true and make a wooden barrel yourself. Cooper is a difficult profession that came to us from past centuries. Today, there are few masters of this craft, and there are even fewer high-class specialists in the manufacture of barrels, so free-selling barrels are a rarity, and not everyone can afford the cost of the product.

Tools

To make your first barrel or small barrel, you need to prepare a place in which it will be convenient to work, tools and suitable material. In addition to the carpentry kit necessary for making a barrel with your own hands, you need to purchase cooperage devices:

carpenter's workbench, fitted for the manufacture of barrels;
long jointer and circular humpback planer;
a device for planing edges on the boards, a barrel will be assembled from them;
equipment for tightening rivets (pillar gate, chain coupler and frame gate machine);
skobelya, plow, bracket;
templates and patterns of own production;
clamps made of wood, metal (for assembling the skeleton of the barrel);
morning time - a device that allows you to cut the morning groove, where the bottom part is inserted.

You need to understand that it is quite difficult to purchase these tools, wood and fixtures on the market, since almost all coopers make machines and layouts on their own, taking into account their height. This is done by trial, no instruction will help.

What you need to know

The main difference between cooperage products is the assembly from pre-prepared wooden planks(stave). The size and shape of the barrel is completely dependent on pre-prepared boards, the configuration of which is set by the cooper. And the initial quality of wooden barrels depends entirely on the chosen wood. For this reason, it is not enough for the master to have a thorough knowledge of the instrument. You need to know the subtleties of each type of wood from which wooden products will be made.

An experienced master will not make a barrel for honey from oak blanks, because he knows that in such a container, honey will quickly acquire a completely different flavor and darken. But it is impossible to find a replacement for oak barrels for aging wines and cognac.

The second element is a hoop that pulls together all the components of the barrel. It is thanks to the hoop that water does not seep through the joints between the boards. It can be made from metal or wood. As the experience of the craftsmen shows, metal hoops are much stronger, and less time is spent on manufacturing than wooden hoops. But some masters still prefer a wooden hoop, giving the barrel a more beautiful look.

Details and the principle of manufacturing products

Many people think that becoming an amateur cooper is very difficult, and dreams never come true. But if you are not used to backing down from your decisions, then you need to decide which option will be your first job.

In total there are 3 types of products: conical, cylindrical and parabolic. Each corresponds to a certain type of rivets:

Products made in the form of a quadrangle, the long sides of which look like a parabola, are used for dishes with convex edges: barrels or barrels.
The circuit in the form of a cylinder is simple. It is easy to make and connect it with hoops of the same diameter, but when the wood dries out in this design, the riveting ceases to perform its functions. This is the main reason why such containers are practically not manufactured.
The shape of an elongated trapezoid makes it possible to obtain durable dishes when stuffing staves. Therefore, this type of product is often suitable for the manufacture of tubs, tubs and other utensils.

As an experimental sample, it is better to stay on a simple small barrel.

Many are interested in how an ordinary tub is made. The barrel is the simplest cooperage product, having achieved a result in its manufacture, you can switch to more complex types of dishes, for example, make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

The principle of creating a product consists of the following steps:

production of blanks;
assembly of dishes;
Finishing work.

The reliability of the structure will depend on the quality of the riveting blank, therefore the most suitable are blanks from logs of sawn wood, gouged out with an ax. For barrels, the most common wood option is oak, as it splits easily in the radial direction. The process of making rivets from different breeds trees practically does not differ, single-row or double-row punching method is used. For large decks, a two-row method is used, and for thin chocks, only a single-row method is used.

The procedure for punching out rivets is as follows:

The ridge must be carefully split in half so that the split line runs strictly along the center of the workpiece.
Each chopping block must be split in two to get 4 equal parts.
Next, you need to split the wood for harvesting in half again to get 8 equal parts. Usually for small logs this is quite enough. It is 1/8 of the part that will become the riveting blank.
If the ridge is thick, a two-row knockout is used, i.e. each of the 8 parts splits into 2 equal parts along the growth rings.
The resulting logs must be split in the radial direction. The result will be 1-2 smaller blanks and 2-5 for larger blanks.
Next, you need to cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions and young wood from the side of the bark. Only after that it is possible to dry the workpiece in an open area or resort to artificial drying.

Making staves

In order to make rivets from the prepared material, you must first prepare the drawings and a template for a specific product in accordance with the desired shape. To get ready-made rivets, you will need:

Run markup.
Make a rough processing of each of the blanks. Namely, round the outer surface, bevel the edges with an ax.
Perform finishing with a planer, constantly monitoring the result with a template.
Plane the inside of the workpiece with a humpback staple.
Trim narrow edges, then level their surface with a jointer.

In the process of making barrels, the cooper has to make tightening hoops on his own. The easiest way to get a hoop from steel tape. To do this, you need to determine the diameter of the container and add double the strip width to the resulting figure. Next, using a hammer, you need to bend the tape into a ring, drill 2 holes and fix them with rivets. To make a small barrel, you will need 2 hoops that will correspond to the diameter of the upper and lower parts of the product.

Bottom assembly and installation

Plane the edges of the boards, fix on a workbench and divide the radius into 6 parts.
Within the circle, mark the places for installing the studs.
Pull out the boards. Drill holes in the edges, drive wooden or metal studs into them.
Dock all the elements tightly and secure with studs, after which you can cut the bottom.
Cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin.
Chamfer with a straight plow and knock down the hoop, loosening the fastening of the rivets.
Insert the bottom into the chime and turn the tub upside down.
Drop the hoop.

It remains to make a lid on the tub and, after checking the design for strength, proceed to use the container. If the work done was to your liking, it makes sense to continue working on the manufacture of barrels.

Vegetables are salted in barrels, bulk products are stored, and water is kept in reserve. They are needed in the pantry, on the site, in the bath. How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands so that it is strong, reliable, durable, does not let water through and does not rot? What tools and skills are needed for the job, what will need to be studied and taken into account? This guide will help you master a useful craftsman and even start your own tub making business.

Wooden barrel for household needs

Cooperage - how to become a master

If the mood is resolute, there are skills in woodworking, and hands grow from where they should be, why not try to realize the idea of becoming a domestic cooper (cooper)? Bondar is a difficult craft that came from antiquity. Now there are very few masters of this business, and there are only a few high-class masters. Therefore, cooperage products are rare on the market, and if you can find them, then either the price or the quality does not please the buyer.

barrel assembly process

What tools are needed to assemble barrels

Having decided to make your first barrel, keg or tub, you need to equip workplace and stock up necessary tools, fixtures, improvised materials. In addition to the usual carpentry kit, you will need to stock up on special cooperage equipment, fixtures and tools. This:

carpenter's workbench, equipped for cooper's work;
cooperage long jointer, circular humpback planer;
a device for planing the edges of the boards from which the product is assembled);
devices for tightening rivets (frame gate, chain tie, pole gate);
plow, skobel, skobelka;
hand-made patterns, templates;
metal or wooden clamps for assembling the skeleton of the barrel;
morning time (device for cutting the morning groove into which the bottom of the product is inserted);
heels (metal, wooden, combined), tightness for a hoop;
cooper's brace.

Fixtures and measuring tools

It should be borne in mind that coopers make a significant part of the devices and tools on their own, “for themselves”, ensuring that the handles of the tools are held in the palm of their hand, like a glove, and the machines and workbenches were tall.

On the left is a two-handed, on the right is a one-handed morning service and how to work with it

What you need to know for the manufacture of cooperage products

Distinctive feature cooper's utensils is that it is assembled from prepared in a special way wooden boards, called staves (otherwise, frets). The shape and dimensions of the product are completely determined by the configuration of the planks, which are pre-made by the cooper. And the consumer qualities of wooden containers depend on the type of wood used.

Therefore, it is not enough for a cooper just to be able to master the tools perfectly. He must feel the "soul" of the tree and know the properties of each type of wood from which he plans to make this or that household item.

Staves are the main element for the manufacture of barrels

An experienced cooper will not make an oak barrel for storing honey - when stored in it, the honey will darken and acquire an unusual aroma. But oak barrels are indispensable for aging wine and other spirits: oak wood gives them new aromas and flavors.

The second element, without which cooperage products are unthinkable, is a hoop that holds the elements, tightens them tightly, so that wooden barrels do not leak. Hoops are made of metal and wood. There is an opinion that metal hoops are stronger, and the hassle with their manufacture is much less than with wooden ones. However, some masters think differently and do beautiful products using wooden hoops.

Tub on wooden hoops

Main details and manufacturing principle

One might get the impression that the task of becoming an amateur cooper is too difficult, and one can only quietly dream about how to make a barrel out of wood. But if you're serious about making your dream come true, it's time to roll up your sleeves.

First of all, you need to choose the type of product that will become your firstborn. With all their diversity, there are three types: with a conical, parabolic and cylindrical core. As already mentioned, the shape of a cooperage product is completely determined by the configuration of the staves from which it is assembled - the more complex the shape, the more difficult it is to make the treasured wooden barrel.

Influence of configuration on product type

The figure above shows the types of cooperage utensils and the corresponding types of staves:

Grooved, made in the form of a quadrilateral, the long sides of which have the form of parabolic curves. They are used in the manufacture of cooperage utensils with convex sides: barrels, barrels. Such staves are the most difficult to make, which predetermines the complexity of manufacturing barrels in general.
The base of the tank is a cylinder. They are easy to manufacture, as they are rectangular grooved planks. It is easy to make such frets, but it is difficult to connect hoops with a constant diameter. When the wood dries out, the hoops no longer hold the rivets. Therefore, cylindrical cooperage products are practically not found.
From straight grooved frets in the form of an elongated trapezoid, dishes are made, the skeleton of which is a truncated cone. When stuffing the hoop on a wide part of such containers, a very strong contraction of the rivets is achieved. This feature has found application in the manufacture of various tubs, tubs, jugs.

By the same principle, a mini-bath is built.

For the first experiment, it is desirable to choose the manufacture of a small tub, often called a barrel in everyday life.

How to make a garden tub for pickles

The barrel is the simplest cooper's product with a conical core. Having achieved success in the construction of the tub, it will be possible to try on how to make more complex barrel at home. The creation process consists of three major steps:

blank production ( constituent parts) products;
construction assembly;
finishing.

Tub for beginners

Self-preparation of rivets for tubs

The reliability and durability of a wooden barrel depends on how carefully the staves are prepared. The most suitable are considered to be blanks, knocked out with an ax from logs and logs of sawn wood. Only the lower part of the trunks of old trees is suitable for this.

Oak wood, most often used for the manufacture of barrels, is very durable. But oak logs (blocks) are quite easily split with an ax in the radial direction. In general, the process of harvesting staves from different trees is approximately the same. There are single-row and double-row punching methods. A single row is suitable for splitting thin logs, a double row is suitable for massive decks.

Double row punching

The procedure for knocking out staves from the ridge:

Split the ridge into 2 parts so that the split line passes exactly through its center.
Each chopping block is also split in half - you get quadruplets.
Split quarters into 2 parts, getting octagon. For a thin block of wood, the knockout process usually ends there. It is the eighth part that will serve as a rough blank for future riveting. This is a single row punch.
If the ridge is thick, make a two-row punch: split each octagon in half along the annual ring (perpendicular to the core rays). The resulting logs are called gnatinniks.
Split each gnathinnik in the radial direction. In this case, 1-2 riveting blanks will be obtained from a smaller gnathin and 2-5 blanks from a larger one.
Perform a small processing of the blanks: chop off the wedge-shaped protrusions from the side of the core and sapwood (weak young wood from the side of the bark).
Send blanks to dry. In summer, they need to be dried for at least 3 months. outdoors or resort to artificial drying.

The sequence of making rivets

Making rivets from blanks

Prior to the manufacture of rivets, it is necessary to make templates and patterns in accordance with the shape and dimensions of a particular product.

To make staves for tubs or barrels, you need:

Make markup.
Perform roughing of each riveted blank: slightly round the outer surface, and mow the edges with an ax.
Start finishing the outer surface with a straight plow or planer, controlling the process with a template.
Plane the inside side with a fillet or a humpbacked staple.
Use an ax to cut the narrow edges of the frets, controlling the accuracy with a template.
Align the surface of the edges with a jointer.

To determine the required number of rivets, you need to find the largest perimeter of the tub: multiply the diameter by 3.14. This value will be equal to the sum of the widths of all elements. For simplicity, in order not to measure the width of each part (and it can vary), you can use flat surface set aside a straight line segment equal to the largest perimeter of the barrel. Lay finished rivets across the line until it closes.

Hoop from sheet metal

Production of metal hoops for the tub

The cooper has to deal with both wood and metal, because the hoops that tighten the dishes have to be made independently from a metal sheet. But it is easier to make hoops from hot-rolled steel tape. For this you need:

Determine the perimeter of the tub at the location of the hoop, add to it the double width of the strip.
Using a hammer, bend the strip into a ring, overlapping the ends of the strip. Drill or punch 2 holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm, install steel rivets.
From the inside, flare one edge of the hoop with hammer blows.

Skeleton Assembly Steps

To make a small barrel at home, two hoops are enough, corresponding to the perimeters of its upper and lower parts.

Stages of assembling the skeleton of the tub

Rivets-sidewalls, pulled together by hoops, form the skeleton of a barrel made of wood. The skeleton should be assembled like this:

Attach 3 supporting rivets to the small hoop with clamps at approximately the same distance from each other, which will allow you to install the structure vertically.
Alternately inserting frets, fill in the sector between the two supporting rivets, fill in the space around the entire perimeter of the small hoop.
Using a hammer and a heel, upset the small hoop so that the parts are securely closed.
Put the lower hoop on the skeleton and also besiege with a heel.
File the ends of the skeleton along the line drawn by the thickness gauge.
Remove the irregularities inside the skeleton with a stapler.
Plane the ends with a humpback planer.
With a straight plow, chamfer inside the core from the ends. This will prevent them from chipping and make it easier to insert the bottom.
Using a chime, cut a groove (chime) where the bottom will be inserted.

Cleaning irregularities with a bracket

Assembly and installation of the bottom of the tub

The fewer joints in the bottom, the higher its reliability. Therefore, for the bottom you need to choose the widest and thickest blanks. The procedure for making the bottom of a wooden barrel with your own hands is as follows:

Cut off the edges of the boards, temporarily rally them on a workbench.
To determine the radius of the bottom, put the legs of the compass in the groove-chime. Using the sampling method, select a compass solution that divides the perimeter of the chime into 6 equal parts.
On cohesive rivets, draw a circle with the resulting compass solution.
Within the circle, make marks at the places where the studs are to be installed.
Release boards. Drill holes in the edges in the marked places and drive in wooden or metal studs.
Tightly join the boards on the studs.
Plane the bottom on both sides.
From the center again draw a circle of the same radius as before.
Cut out the bottom with a circular saw, leaving a small margin outside the circle.
With a straight plow, chamfer on both sides so that the thickness of the wood at a distance from the edge equal to the depth of the chime remains equal to its width.
Knock down a large hoop with a heel, loosening the fastening of the rivets. Insert the bottom into the chime.
Carefully turn the tub upside down, upset a large hoop.

Now the homemade tub is almost ready. It remains to make a lid and a circle. It will not be difficult - you can focus on the manufacture of the bottom. After checking the barrel for leaks, you can start cooking pickles in it.

You may also find it helpful to watch the tutorial video.

Video: How to make a wooden tub

Using the techniques described, you can make tubs for indoor plants or flower beds for landscape design.

Potted flower beds will decorate the garden landscape

How to make a reliable wine barrel

Having mastered the manufacture of tubs, you can proceed to the construction of a wooden barrel for aging wine with your own hands. And if homemade wine is not the subject of your interests, then the acquired skills can become the basis of a profitable business. After all, the demand and prices for cooperage products on the market are quite high.

The choice of material and the manufacture of rivets

The material for the body of wine barrels is exclusively oak wood. Rivets for them are prepared in the same way as for tubs, that is, split rivets are used. For the experiment, you can make a wooden barrel from boards (oak, of course). In this case, the barrel will last less than the one made of chipped frets. It should be borne in mind that boards for riveting blanks should only be straight-layered, otherwise the walls will crack.

Selection of boards for riveting blanks: a) such boards are unsuitable; b) these boards will fit

The frets for the barrel have a complex configuration. Each of them is thinner in the middle than at the ends, outside surface convex, internal grooved. And the side edges look like gentle parabolas. Accordingly, it is more difficult to make barrel frets than barrel frets.

Steps for making barrel frets

First of all, you need to make a template, a pattern. Stages of making staves for a barrel:

Rough extrusion with an ax with a semicircular blade to give it the shape of a prism. Reducing the thickness of the middle part by 15-20%.
Beveling the side edges with an ax. Rounding of the outer face (control with a template). Measuring the width of the riveting in the middle with a template, determining its dimensions at the ends, drawing marks.
Beveling the workpiece to the ends along a slightly curved arc. Chamfering on the side edges with pattern checking.
Planing the outer plate with a planer or straight scraper.
Treatment inner surface a humpback planer or a humpbacked scraper.
Edge jointing.

Assembling a wooden barrel

The beginning of the assembly does not differ from the assembly of the tub

Stages of assembling a wooden barrel

The beginning of the assembly does not differ from that for the tub until the moment when all the rivets are inserted into the upper (the barrel has 2 bottoms!) Hoop. Next, you need to do the following:

Stuff the second hoop, called the neck hoop.
The lower part of the unraveled core is steamed to increase flexibility.
Steaming time depends on the hardness of the wood and the size of the cross section of the frets. When constructing a thin-walled barrel with a slight steepness of the sides, steaming is not required.
Pull off the steamed rivets with a chain tie or a cooperage collar, put on the upper hoop, then fill the neck and middle hoops.
Harden and dry the skeleton accessible way, for example, gently rolling the core, which contains a layer of burning chips. You can use gas burner, blowtorch. The main thing is that the wood, as it were, “tanned”, but not charred. This procedure fixes the shape of the barrel, and the taste of drinks from it only improves.
Perform the same operations as with the skeleton of the tub: trimming, cleaning surfaces, cutting chimes.
Make and insert the bottoms by performing the same operations that were performed for this purpose for the tub. Only when installing the bottoms, in addition to removing the top, you also need to loosen the neck. In the upper bottom, pre-drill a hole for the bay, make a cork for it.