Drainage system near a private house. How to do the drainage of the site with your own hands: we do the drainage correctly by studying the projects and types of systems. Digging a ditch, backfilling

From this article you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system around the house: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but both technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they make it possible to create reliable protection foundations of a residential building from moisture.

Device

The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in the territory suburban area or eliminate excess fluid altogether.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. WITH inside warming cause ground water if they lie close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water intrusion throughout long term. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually exposes weaknesses and gaps in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.

The feasibility of drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of the building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. These factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the supporting structures of the building.

This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall drainage of the foundation can be carried out even after all construction works building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

1. The site has a lowland location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural way - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level in the area.
3. The area is characterized high level rainfall - storm water is collected on the surface in such quantity that they simply do not have time to be removed by natural means.
4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

Properly make drainage around the house, as well as installation storm system in the garden, quite easily. The main thing is:

• perform calculations correctly;
• select the type of system that meets the conditions of the site;
• select materials that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind areas in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Choosing a Foundation Drainage System

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.

The main types of surface systems:

• storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in a simple and affordable technology. Most of work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain is capable of removing only melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the territory of the entire summer cottage and the area around the building. Water in this case moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels have a linear type of placement. Special gratings are put on top;
• point system - do-it-yourself foundation drainage option, which allows you to quickly drain excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include water taps and downpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative metal gratings. They prevent clogging of the system with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with the technology, which involves the subsequent connection of water transfer routes to a single highway leading to the well.

Helpful advice! Point and line systems can be combined to provide a combined drainage solution that improves the drainage efficiency of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device around the house: the cost of work

The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work performed with my own hands. But in this case you get:

• guaranteed quality of the result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and right choice materials;
• no errors fatal to the system;
• high speed organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser should be purchased), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

• drainage at the foundation of the building;
• garden drainage systems.

For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

• "herringbone";
• "partial sample";
• "parallel placement".

In garden plots, systems of closed or open drainage are installed. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation around the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. At the same time, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of floors. Pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
• interlayers of sand, which has a draining purpose;
• soil;
• layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, it is necessary to organize a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. From it you need to step back down by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding ground floor as well as basements.

Drainage device around the house: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:

Installation for this system of a collector well, complete with pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of penetration depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also consider the necessary indentation from the wall).

Arrangement of walldrainage around the house: the price of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage device

To arrange the drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. To do this, several wells (4-5 wells) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is studied.

On clayey and loamy soil types, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of the soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage around the house: how to do the installation correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to complete a series of preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bituminous priming compound from the outside.
2. Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
3. Sticking reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
4. Drying the surface during the day.
5. Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The pipe laying pattern can be affected by specific gravity soil. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.

Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying step is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage around the house: how to do the main array of work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• at the lowest point of the site, a collector well is being installed;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope to the water collector, which is regulated using building level;
• a sand cushion is created at the bottom of the trenches 5 cm thick;
• it is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be overlapped;
• formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
• docking of pipeline elements with the help of corner connectors and adapters;
• inspection wells are placed at the corners of the structure. From them to the drainage well, a pipeline is laid with a slope;
• formation of an embankment of gravel 10 cm thick;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of a geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

For the installation of this system, it is required to make around the structure closed system trenches, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of placement of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

The trenches in this case should also be located with a slope to the well to collect water. The minimum slope indicator is 2-3 cm / linear meter. Adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and a geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped on the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
3. A pipeline is being installed with a diameter of elements of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2 °.
4. Manholes are being installed in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
6. Wrapping is carried out with the free edges of the geotextile fabric.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Do-it-yourself organization of drainage around the house without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative Views drainage:

1. Backfill system - improvised materials (fragments of concrete, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric are used as a filler for trenches.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with twisted caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon cords or wire.
4. Rod drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, strut sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then laid.
5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is obtained in cross section, directed with the apex down. Before filling with earth on the boards, it is recommended to lay moss as a filter.

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.

Use the video below for a more detailed look at the classic do-it-yourself drainage technology around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without piping.

home drainage is a system whose function is to take atmospheric and underground moisture from the foundation. It's very rare to get by without it. in areas with well-permeable soil, lack of floods and low year-round groundwater levels.

In other cases, this system is necessary, since protects the foundation, basement from rain, melt water and the rise of the primer, as well as from the destructive effect of soils prone to swelling when moistened and frozen. Thus, drainage will extend the life of the building and prevents the development of mold in the basement.

For creating moisture removal systems you can use the services of specialists, as well as do all the work yourself. You just need to choose the right drainage, and there are several types of it. They differ in the complexity of the arrangement, appearance and other parameters.

One of the most common classifications of drainage is based on how complex it is. According to this parameter, 3 types of drainage systems.

• open type drainage or surface is one or more ravines. The depth of each is about 0.7 m, and the width is 0.5 m. This option the easiest to set up but outwardly it is unattractive.

• Backfill view or deep looks much better. For this species, a trench is also first dug. A geofabric is laid in it, and then a draining backfill is poured in, which will accumulate and remove excess moisture. For these purposes use broken brick, crushed stone, expanded clay etc. The drainage layer is wrapped with geotextile and covered with soil. But such a system there is one significant drawback: it can only be cleaned after opening.
• The most difficult, but The most advanced system for draining water from the site is closed drainage. In the center of the backfill there is a drain, which is a perforated pipe. Water is collected in the pipeline and discharged by gravity into the drainage well.

Exactly third way diverting water into last years has become traditional when creating a drainage system.

Classical drainage scheme around the house

More often water drainage from the foundation is a drainage system surrounding the house, as well as revision and drainage wells. Equip such a drainage as follows:

• around the house dig trenches, the bottom of which has a slope of 5-10 mm per meter towards the lowest point of the area where the water collector will be installed;
• on the hardened bottom fall asleep rubble or other drainage material;
• above stack downhill drainage pipe;
• in places where drains form a right angle or several pipes intersect, install wells for revision;
• above drains fall asleep the same drainage material, and then sand and soil;
• at the lowest point of the site installing a drainage well which is necessary to collect water;
• backfill all wells.

This is a simplified description of the design of the near-house drainage system. In real drainage can be wall or ring, it all depends on the characteristics of the soil and the private house itself.

wall drainage

Such water protection applied in that case, if the house has a basement and a basement.

And it's worth doing until the backfill around the foundation of the house is completed. Such a measure will avoid additional financial costs for earthmoving work.

The wall system consists of revision and collector tanks, as well as drains. Latest laid around the building at a depth of at least 0.3-0.5 m from the floor level, but not deeper than the bottom edge of the foundation. The slope in this case is also important to observe.

For reliability around the foundation recommended create a waterproof half-meter a screen made of the most compacted clay, or the base of the house is covered with geotextiles.

In some cases enough to remove only atmospheric moisture application only open type wall drainage, which is a collection of trays located in a ring near the house.

From above the gutters are closed with gratings.

Trench or ring system

This type of drainage used for home protection, which is located in a sandy area and has no base. Have a trench system at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the house foundation, it is best to remove it at least 5 m from the building in order to avoid soil shrinkage, which will lead to the destruction of the foundation of the structure. When constructing such a drainage system from the foundation of buildings, all those elements are used that are in the classical system described above.

For additional protection foundations of the house use a clay castle. Besides, general rule is the installation of drains at a depth of 50 cm from the lowest point of the floor. The remaining parameters are determined on a case-by-case basis.

The device of wall drainage of the foundation around the house

Before proceeding with the installation of a near-house drainage system, it is necessary to determine its type, which depends on several parameters:

• types of soil;
• whether the building has a basement or basement;
• the origin of the water to be removed.

The wall-mounted underground version is used in the presence of a basement, high GWL and loamy and clayey soils. If it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house only from precipitation, a surface system will suffice.

To protect the house located on sandy or sandy loamy soils and not having a basement, apply ring (trench) drainage.

Having decided on the type of drainage, you can begin to draw up a diagram, design a system and plan all work. This stage allows you to reduce all possible shortcomings, which are then expensive to fix.

For plan you need to determine the lowest point on the site to install a drainage well, which will be connected to the common ring of the system by a pipe.

It is better to draw a diagram on graph paper or in a special program. The drawing should show:

• the house, as well as the buildings adjacent to it;
• trees and shrubs;
• places where drains pass, depending on the type of drainage chosen;
• revision and drainage wells.

Inspection tanks are installed at the place where the pipe turns, for example, in the corners of a house, or every 30 m for a straight pipe run.

The plan should also record the depth of pipe laying. This indicator depends not only on the bottom slab of the foundation and the height of the floor, but also on the level of soil freezing. Pipes should run deeper than the zero winter ground temperature point. It is important to write down the diameter of the drains, which affects the width of the trench, and the required slope.

Design is best left to the experts. But the purchase required material and installation of the drainage system on the basis of a competent plan can be done independently.

How to make indoor drainage around the house with your own hands

Such a device for protecting the house from water can be done independently even after the construction of the building is completed. First of all, you need to prepare working tools and all the necessary materials:

• shovels of two types (bayonet and shovel);
• spirit level for checking the slope;
• manual type rammer;
• a device for removing excess soil from the site (stretcher or wheelbarrow);
• roulette;
• geotextile;
• backfill for the moisture-collecting layer (granite crushed stone is best suited);
• sand;
• inspection and drainage wells;
• drainage pump;
• drains and fittings for their connection with each other and with wells.

Pipes must be perforated. You can purchase ready-made drains, or make them yourself from the existing orange sewer pipe. Flexible products are not recommended. The diameter of the pipeline can be 70-150 mm.

The material is preferably plastic with high strength and wall resistance to stress. Moreover, the deeper the drains go, the higher this figure should be. You can take asbestos and ceramic products.

Some prefabricated drainage pipes are surrounded by an additional filter material, such as coconut fibre.

lookout and buy in ready-made or made independently from thick-walled plastic pipe large diameter. They will need to buy hatches.

After acquiring everything you need, they begin to measure, allowing you to mark the place where the drains and other elements of the drainage system will pass. They free the site from debris and proceed to earthen and installation work. Let's take a look how to properly lay the drainage pipe around the house:

The drainage system is ready.

Video on how to make a drainage system around the house with your own hands:

A few words about the plastic drainage well

In the very simple form it can be a container for collecting water. At the point of connection with the inlet pipeline you need to install a valve that prevents the reverse flow of water. Well, if the container has large diameter eg 80-100 cm.

From the drainage well, you can lay a non-perforated outlet pipeline to a ravine, filtration well or reservoir. Drainage from the collector can be done by gravity or drainage pump . Water from the well can be used for technical needs and irrigation.

How much does drainage cost

If you decide completely drain the site yourself, then here is the cost that you will have to pay only for the tools and all the material:

1. Meter drainage pipe with a diameter of 11 cm can cost from 60 to 180 rubles.
2. A square meter of geotextile will cost you approximately 20-40 rubles.
3. Granite crushed stone fraction 20/40 mm costs from 1200 to 2000 rubles per m3.
4. The average price per cubic meter of river sand is about 600-700 rubles.

In this case running meter drainage will cost a maximum of 2000 rubles. But that doesn't include shipping costs. Still need to add the price of wells. Ready plastic manhole minimum diameter can do in 2000- 2500 rubles apiece, and drainage - more than 10 thousand rubles. Cheaper to make them from a pipe.

If you hire specialists, then the price of the drainage system will be the sum of the cost for design services (about 10,000 rubles) and the work itself. Many firms make a project for free if you order work from them.

Specializing companies set the price for pipe laying at least 2500 rubles per meter, for the installation of a viewing well - 5-7 thousand, and a drainage one - 35-40 thousand rubles. But many of them give a guarantee on their work for 2-3 years.

But if you are confident in your abilities or have at least some experience, then you can order only a project, and the rest do it yourself. Or in general, carry out all drainage work on your own including charting.

The main thing is to decide on the type of drainage in accordance with the characteristics of the building, the climate of the region and the site. It is better to use deep drainage, and if necessary, supplement it with a storm system.

Don't skimp on pipes. and underestimate the manhole that allows the system to be cleaned. At proper organization drainage, you will not only be able to protect the house from moisture, but also use all atmospheric and groundwater for household needs.

Drainage at home is needed so that puddles do not accumulate on the site after rain, and those living in the house do not have to suffer from dampness. High-quality drainage prolongs the construction period, and therefore it is necessary to equip it, despite the fact that work on its device is quite laborious.
It is necessary to protect the foundation of the building from moisture as much as possible, since the devastating effects of water on construction support structures well known.
Some homeowners believe that waterproofing the foundation is able to cope with moisture and do not accept any additional measures to protect your home from water. In fact, this state of affairs is justified only for those buildings that are located on sandy soils. Houses standing on alumina or loam have every reason to be flooded with water during the spring snowmelt, since the groundwater level on these types of soil rises quite high to the surface of the earth. Therefore, it will not be possible to cope with drainage by the forces of only one waterproofing. It is necessary to provide more serious protection from water. In this case, it is necessary to equip drainage around the house.

Drainage: three types of systems

Drainage systems:

Location of drainage layers.

1. Open. imply the use open ditches up to 50 cm wide and about 0.5-0.7 m deep. Advantages: technically simple. But they are rarely used anywhere, because from an aesthetic point of view, the appearance of open ditches does not particularly attract the eye and does not decorate the landscape.
2. Closed. This engineering Communication, representing a prefabricated network of perforated pipes (mainly made of polymeric materials), laid on a gravel bed. A drainage system of this type is considered the most efficient, but also the most time-consuming.
3. Backfilling. There are some similarities with open type, but the pit is not empty, it is covered with permeable material: crushed stone of a large fraction, broken brick etc. From above, the ditch with all its contents is covered with cut turf. Such drainage has its advantages, they are expressed in its durability, especially if the hole is covered with geotextile before filling. The drainage system also has its drawback - the impossibility of cleaning when it becomes silted.

Drainage system for the home: a classic version of the scheme

1. Along the perimeter of the building, trenches are dug for laying drains, they must comply with the dimensions of the slope up to 1%. The discharge point (collector well) is organized at the bottom of the system.
2. A drainage pump is included in the system if it is not possible to provide an appropriate slope.
3. Drains are made from perforated pipes.
4. Revision wells are an indispensable component of the scheme. They are installed at the corners of the building.

DIY drainage: construction tools

• hacksaw for metal;
• shovel;
• hydraulic level;
• wheelbarrow for transportation of crushed stone and removal of soil;
• tamper.

Drainage device

Wall drainage of the foundation.

The drainage system can be equipped independently, without the help of specialists.

Trench preparation provides for groundwater drainage. Sequence earthworks characterized by the following stages of construction:

1. The trenches are torn off so that their width accommodates the pipe and there is still a free space of 10 cm from it on each side. Their depth depends on the depth of the foundation of the house. The pipes are located 0.5 m lower than the lowest point of the foundation.
2. It is necessary to make regular measurements of the slope when preparing trenches.
3. The bottom of the ditches is carefully tamped, then sand is poured with a thickness of about 10 cm and is also tamped.
4. The trench is covered with geotextile so that its edges overlap the edges of the ditch.
5. Make another layer of backfill - gravel or expanded clay. The material is covered with a thickness of 20 cm, while constantly monitoring the slope.
6. The next stage is to lay pipes in ditches, and revision wells are placed in the corners of the house.
7. Gravel is again poured on top of the pipes, the height of which should reach 20 cm.
8. The edges of the geotextile are aligned over the gravel backfill. The geotextile will serve as a protection for the gravel, preventing soil from getting into it, and will not allow it to silt. Secure the material with polypropylene tape or twine.
9. Since storm water and drainage are built at the same time, storm sewer pipes are placed on top of the geotextile.
10. Non-perforated polymer pipes are used as a drainage system for rainwater.
11. Rainwater outlets installed under the roof drainpipes are connected to the stormwater pipes.
12. The network of pipes from which the drainage system and stormwater are made sewer network, attached to a drainage well, from which it is taken out into a reservoir located nearby or a roadside ditch.
13. Then the trench is covered with sand 10 cm thick, it is rammed from the sides.
14. The last backfill layer is the soil that was taken out at the stage of excavation. The top of the trench is covered with turf cut before the start of work.

wall drainage

Mandatory conditions for wall drainage are the presence of a basement or basement. Its installation is carried out at the same time when the foundation is being erected. At the same time, it will be possible to avoid unnecessary labor costs, since it will not be necessary to dig additional trenches. Drains can be laid in a pit dug under the foundation.

Diagram of closed drainage systems.

Wall drainage is calculated by calculating the length of the trenches and the optimal slope (at least 1% of the length) for the location of the pipes.

Important: for example, if the length of the trenches is 25 m in total, then the distance between the highest and lowest points of the system will be 25 cm.

A component of a suburban building and a house adjoining area is the drainage system around the house: the drainage device, its features and installation rules for this design must be studied before starting work. Please read the installation requirements before installation. The technology for creating a wall-mounted drainage scheme is popular.

Drainage design effectively removes water from buildings

The process of arranging a drainage structure is different from waterproofing. But the use of these measures in combination will create a complete protection of the building from moisture.

Proper arrangement of the drainage system around the house will help to reduce the level of excess fluid in the area. The drainage device involves compliance with the installation technology and the use of special materials.

Helpful information! The building can be flooded from the outside and inside. Especially if groundwater runs close to the surface.

Constant exposure to moisture can destroy the foundation of the house and provoke the appearance of putrefactive formations, fungi and other pathogenic microorganisms.

The installation of a wall drainage system is carried out even after the installation of all construction work.

A drainage device is required in the following cases:

• the adjoining territory and the rest of the plot are located in a lowland;
• clay and loamy soils prevent the absorption of excess moisture;
• a large amount of precipitation throughout the year and water accumulates on the surface;
• close location of groundwater.

The main types of stormwater and drainage around the house

When deciding how to properly drain around the house, it is worth deciding on important points:

• make calculations;
• in accordance with the conditions of the area, choose a type of design;
• select materials that are suitable for operational and technical characteristics;
• make drainage of the foundation and blind areas.

Related article:

Every area needs drainage. But its organization is a rather complicated and expensive process. Let's consider the best option together.

Features of choice for drainage of the foundation

The type of construction is selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular site. Surface structures are of the following types:

• storm sewers are installed around the household. Differs in simple technology, is established independently. But such a design will not protect against groundwater;
• the linear system is designed to drain the site and the adjacent area. Excess water accumulates in a special well;
• point construction is a way to drain the foundation. In this case, moisture is removed from local sources. Such drainage is covered with gratings that protect the device from debris.

Helpful information! On its site, a combined version is used, consisting of a linear and point systems.

Arrangement of high-quality drainage around the house: turnkey price

Turnkey work will have a higher price than the cost of a do-it-yourself drainage system around the house.

But it does offer:

• quality of work;
• installation in compliance with technological standards;
• correct calculations and selection of suitable materials;
• speed of work and the absence of gross errors.

The cost of arranging a surface storm drain will cost 1500-1900 per linear meter, and a deeper version - 2300-2700 rubles. Plus, the installation of storm water inlets is added to the indicated cost. When calculating the cost, risers falling from the roof are taken into account.

Popular schemes for the garden plot and foundation

Drainage around the house is of two types: drainage of the base of the building and drains garden plot.

To equip the drainage on the site, you should use the following schemes:

• selective option;
• parallel arrangement;
• herringbone.

Drainage systems are open and closed type. Wall and ring options are used. The wall construction is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation. It should be used in the presence of a basement or basement.

Accurate calculations of the passage of pipes and the level of the floor are assumed by the drainage system around the house. The drainage device at the base of the building includes:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile material;
• pipeline;
• a layer of sand;
• ground layer;
• clay layer.

Helpful information! The depth of the trench is selected in accordance with the location of the base of the foundation, from which you should retreat half a meter down.

Order or do a do-it-yourself drainage device around the house?

The cost of a drainage structure depends on the level of drainage deepening and on the length of the building.

The table shows the prices for the work of wall and ring drainage.

Installing a collector well for any of their schemes will cost 35,000 rubles. For do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation on clay soils, it must be borne in mind that precipitation will accumulate in the upper soil layer.

How to do wall drainage

Before arranging the wall system, you will need to carry out the following work:

• surface treatment with a primer solution;
• applying bituminous mastic;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• surface drying;
• distribution of the second layer of mastic.

Mounting technology

The basic order of work on the drainage system consists of the following steps:

• a collector well is placed in a low place;
• using the building level, a recess is made with a slope towards the water collector;
• a sand cushion is made;
• geofabric is laid on top;
• a layer of gravel is formed;
• pipes are installed at an angle;
• connection of pipeline parts using adapters and corner connectors;
• placement of manholes;
• pouring another layer of gravel;
• wrapping highways with geotextile fabric;
• filling trenches with sand or earth.

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Arrangement of ring drainage around the house: how to do it yourself

To create a similar scheme, a trench is made around the building. closed type, which are also made with a slope.

The technology consists of the following steps:

• pouring sand on the bottom and laying geofabric;
• a pillow is created from crushed stone;
• installation of pipes with a slope of 2 degrees;
• installation of wells for inspection;
• rubble mound;
• winding with free edges of geotextile fabric;
• filling trenches with soil and sand.

Installation of a drainage structure without pipes

You can create drainage without pipes. At the same time, improvised materials are used: fragments of brick, concrete, stones, and even plastic bottles. Used bunches of brushwood, long knots and boards. But such designs are not of high quality.

By following the rules of installation technology, you can create a durable drainage system.

Drainage system of groundwater and wastewater in a private house (video)

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