Wooden crafts They always look interesting, especially when turned, when a beautiful and unique wood structure emerges. Even if the elements, when turned, turn out to be identical in shape and size, you will not find two identical ones.
It is known that one of Peter I’s hobbies was working on a lathe, perhaps something like this.
Therefore, no one would call this a “royal” task, but many people can make a wood lathe with their own hands, and there are many options simple solutions here is mass. We will offer you several successful, in our opinion, implemented projects.
What can a wood lathe be made from?
Making such a machine is not that difficult. First, let's look at its circuit diagram.
The headstock is rigidly attached to the frame. It can contain either an electric motor or a device with pulleys to which torque is transmitted from external motor. This may be a self-centering chuck, a crown washer, or a faceplate with a tapered threaded rod. The tailstock can move along the bed and has a device for centering and pressing the workpiece. The stop is also movable relative to the frame in 3 planes.
The bed of a homemade wood lathe can be made either from metal or from wood itself or thick-layer plywood. Either the entire headstock or at least the main elements of the headstock and tailstock must be made exclusively from metal.
Most often, corners are used to make a metal frame - they are the easiest to tighten and fasten the moving elements of the machine and they have a high degree of dimensional stability. But you can use a channel or profile pipe.
Sometimes a groove is milled in the channel for moving elements.
The design solutions of the headstock and tailstock may be different, but the main condition - the ideal alignment of their centers - must be strictly observed. If the role of the headstock is performed by the electric motor itself, then the height of the tailstock is adjusted to it.
This is the simplest way to drive a lathe, but the motor parameters should be close to universal:
- rotation speed 1500 rpm;
- power – from 120 watts.
The output shaft of such an engine can be machined under a Morse taper to mount a three-jaw chuck from an electric drill, in which either a threaded rod or a crown is clamped. Less often, a large self-clamping chuck is installed on the engine shaft through a faceplate, which must be turned separately.
Craftsmen make wooden full-size lathes rather than from practical considerations, but out of love for the material itself and to demonstrate its design capabilities, although these can be fully functional devices that are in no way inferior in practical terms to their steel counterparts.
True, it will take 2 times more time to produce such a beauty than to produce a metal one, but this is compensated by the difference in the cost of materials.
DIY metal lathe for wood: drawing
For those who do not want to reinvent the wheel, we offer a drawing of a wood lathe that is universal, in terms of the dimensions of the processed parts, created on the basis of 50x50 steel angles.
The drawing does not indicate the diameter of the hole for the central shaft of the headstock, because it will depend on the selected type of drive, and only the distance to its center is indicated. Also, if a shaft with pulleys is installed in the headstock, then this particular part will need to be made in two copies and the second one will need to be installed at the rear of the headstock. Of course, you can also install a tube with bearings on which the central shaft with pulleys located outside the headstock rotates.
On such a machine it will be possible to make table legs and even balusters. If you need longer turned products, the bed will need to be lengthened. Make all other parts of the specified sizes, except perhaps also slightly increase the length of the stop.
You can buy a cutting tool for a wood lathe or make it yourself.
The main cutters are: reyer - a passing or roughing cutter (in the photo 2 and 3 on the right) and meisel - a finishing cutter (in the photo - 2 middle cutters). The rest are used to obtain sharp indentations various shapes(left) and rounded recesses (right).
A small metal lathe can be made as shown in the video, which also shows the dimensions of all parts:
But for turning a large number, especially long, parts of the same type, it is worth thinking about making a machine with a copier.
Do-it-yourself wood lathe with a copier: video
Actually, the machine itself can be the same as proposed above, only its design will need to be modified, and one of the universal woodworking power tools will need to be used as a cutting tool - most often it will be a grinder.
The template for the product is correct cylindrical, carved using a copier, serves as a smooth strip. If you need to get a complex multi-stage shape, then its profile is cut out on a flat template. It can be metal, plywood, wood, plastic, etc. and installed in different places, depending on the design features of the machines.
Let's look at the structure of one of these machines.
The workpiece in this machine is clamped between the crown of the headstock and the stationary cone of the rear. The tailstock cone is secured with a lock nut.
The copier is mounted on a rotary shaft on 2 bearings and a tension roller from an automobile timing drive, allowing it to move freely along the shaft.
The shaft, in turn, is mounted on the base also on bearings, allowing it to easily rotate around its axis.
A grinder is rigidly mounted on the copier, with paired discs installed on it with a slight offset, allowing for higher quality and cleaner turning.
Saws should be taken with pobeditovy tips and large teeth, which promote better removal of chips.
The template can be attached to convenient location, which does not interfere with turning. The profile pattern is transferred from the template to the copier using a leash, but its shape and length must be consistent with this location. The thinner the tip of the leash, the more accurately it will transfer the shape from the template to the workpiece, but at the same time it must be quite hard and rigid.
An interesting option is when the role of a template is played by a reference part. The system proposed by the author of the following video provides just such an opportunity, and adjustments to its fastening allow you to make some adjustments to the thickness of the replicated turned parts.
Using a manual grinder instead of a grinder circular saw, with the template placed in front - also a rather progressive type of wood lathe with a copier. It allows you to make it more compact, but combining the control handle with the leash does not allow you to make it thin enough, so a very accurate transfer of shape will not happen with this arrangement.
And there should also be two disks on the saw.
DIY wood lathe from a drill
Of course, the easiest way would be to make a wood lathe using a standard power tool, primarily a drill, although there are also factory-made devices.
It is desirable that the drill has sufficient power, a locking button in the on position and speed control.
Let's look at several schemes and start with the simplest one, when the use of a tailstock is not required. This is possible when producing small-diameter and not very long products.
In this case, a rather convenient way to secure the drill itself is to install a piece of threaded rod or the threaded part of a powerful self-tapping screw in the drill chuck, and drill a hole of the appropriate diameter in the workpiece for them. Any block of appropriate height will do as a stop.
And here is the relevant video:
If you can’t do without a tailstock, then a mechanic’s vice can partially perform its function; you just need to position the drill relative to it when fastening it.
And yet, the most common are homemade lathes based on drills, which have a wooden frame and, at a minimum, primitive tailstocks.
By the way, the role of a crown fixed in a self-clamping drill chuck can be successfully performed by feather drill on wood. To prevent it from starting to remove chips from the end of the workpiece when bringing the tool in, at this end you need to make a slot for the wings of the drill and drill the center.
The lathe shown in the video is made from powerful drill, is not much inferior to stationary machines designed for processing parts of the same dimensions, and its ability to obtain higher speeds than theirs makes it possible to produce higher quality finishing products.
To create a home lathe, you can use not only a drill, but also an angle grinder.
True, it is desirable that it have speed control, because 10 thousand or more rpm is too much for such machines.
For home craftsmen who know how and prefer to work with metal, we offer this design of a lathe made from an electric drill.
But a self-clamping chuck as a tailstock can be used in any other design.
AND small video lastly. It may seem that this is a toy machine, but with its help you can actually make a fairly large list of useful things: from door handles and handles for hand tools to chess pieces.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
For the real owner of the house, there is a huge amount of work in the house and in the country, which will be more convenient to do with the help of the made DIY wood lathe. Production machines are quite expensive, especially since you can’t buy enough of everything you need. But if available electric drill, free time and a certain level of skill, you will soon be able to grind a variety of wooden parts.
Homemade wood lathe with your own hands
Maybe a lathe is not the most necessary thing in the household, but if you understand the principle of its operation, and even manage to make the most basic elements for finishing and construction, then this will be a serious reason to be proud of yourself as a true jack of all trades.
Details that can be made using homemade wood lathe with your own hands, may be different. It could be the legs garden furniture, balusters for railings and balconies, even details, because it is the curly elements that will distinguish your product from others for which planed rather than turned wood is used. In addition, the smooth surface of the parts allows you to use more comfortable things without worrying about sharp edges and splinters.
The main elements that you will need to construct the entire structure are the base, otherwise called the bed, as well as the front and rear supports, between which the workpiece is located. The sizes you plan to work with will depend on overall size finished machine. For some, the size is suitable, and therefore a rather modest beam can be used for the frame, but for others, the size of the garage itself will not be enough, accordingly, the frame can reach impressive sizes. In any case, its main task is to ensure that the entire structure remains stable during operation, even at high engine speeds. The material for the bed or frame can be timber or metallic profile.
The second mandatory element is the leading center - this is the point at which the motor is connected, which will rotate the workpiece being processed. You can find many ways to create turning and milling machine DIY woodworking using different engines. You need to know that the design will work with an engine of any power, but only sufficiently powerful engines have the ability to cope with wide and long pieces of wood, and even process it efficiently. Therefore, if you need a machine for a small amount of work, but constantly, for example, you always make things with your own hands, then it is better to use a fairly powerful motor, which most electric drills have.
The third mandatory element will be the driven center, it is located at the other end of the frame, secured so as to hold the second end of the workpiece and support the rotation that the driving center transmits through it. At the most simple designs it can be fixed in one position and in order to change the size of the workpiece you will need to unscrew the fasteners at the base and move it along the frame in one direction or another. In other designs, the possibility of moving it along a horizontal axis is provided in advance.
Putting together all the main elements into a single constructor is a little more difficult than making one. We must remember that both centers must be strictly at the same level, this is necessary so that during operation the workpiece does not vibrate and the turning occurs in accordance with the technology. Everything must be securely screwed, verified, nothing should fly off or fall out during the work, since we are talking about important aspects safety precautions.
Do-it-yourself wood lathe drawings
Of course, it is much more difficult to understand the structure of a homemade unit by ear, so it is better to resort to assembly instructions DIY wood lathe, drawings With symbols and, of course, photographs of the main elements. Having dealt with them, you will see that putting it all together is no more difficult than making it, especially if you strictly follow the instructions.
Before you is the simplest drawing, according to which, if you have a hand-held electric drill on the farm, you can assemble DIY wood lathe. Video with the process of working on a similar unit, it can tell you the assembly sequence. First, on the frame, which is fixed to the table surface with a latch, in order to be strong and motionless (1), you must install the base for the leading center - the front support. In the diagram, this part is indicated by the number 2. The task of this part is to become the place where the drill head is inserted and where it can be placed, being securely fixed. Later we will look in more detail at how it should be arranged.
The rear support, which we see at number 4, is designed to secure the driven center in it; it can either move along the horizontal line of the frame or always remain in one place, secured with self-tapping screws. As you can see, fasteners No. 1 are designed so that both one and the second structural part are mobile, which greatly simplifies the task when the workpieces have a significant difference in overall dimensions.
The next drawing is the design of the front support, inside which the drill is fixed. As you can see, there is always a hole in the adjustable system so that you can place the tool inside and securely fix it there, and then take it back out by unscrewing the screws. It is best to place the drill upside down, so it will be much more stable, which is very important for proper operation systems. At the same time, the correct operation of its drill will not change in any way.
Make a wood lathe with your own hands
An important step in how make a wood lathe with your own hands- this is a driven center device, so it should also rotate, repeating the movements of the drill. To achieve this, you need to place a bearing inside it, which will help achieve this result.
You can easily take such a thrust bearing from any unit of a suitable size. Based on the experience of craftsmen who have performed similar manipulations, a release bearing from a VAZ car may be suitable. The entire structure is welded so that the reliability of the components is maximized - the tip will be a sharpened bolt, which will have to plunge a sufficient number of centimeters into the workpiece. It is welded onto a washer, which is welded to the bearing housing, and on the other side, through another washer, a pancake bolt with threads and a lock nut is welded, which helps adjust the length of the center and fix it in the selected position.
The tools you will need are welding machine, grinder, a screwdriver, with which the fastenings of the headstocks (supports) are fixed. Now we can proudly say that for DIY wood lathe chuck ready.
The center of the structure should not be on the same axis, located between the leading and driven centers, but slightly lower. After all, it is on him that the emphasis will fall hand tools, and the angle must be sharp, but it must still be there. Even if you make the very base of the center from wooden block, then it is still recommended to make its top out of metal. Typically, rolled metal is ideal for this purpose - a corner that allows you to rest the tool securely against it; it is durable and does not deform even at high speeds.
DIY wood lathe photo
Operating principle DIY wood lathe, photo which you see in our article today is quite simple. In the hole that we thoughtfully designed in the front support, a drill is inserted and tightened well in a vice, secured with a nut.
After a gap equal to the length of the workpiece being processed, a tailstock is installed, which, after the workpiece is installed between the drill bit and the sharpened bolt, is tightened with a lock nut. Check the strength of the seat of the piece of wood inside; it should not come out from both ends, it should be firmly seated.
On the left side you have the drive, on the right side you have the tailstock, and in the middle there is a metal angle. You turn on the drill and the workpiece begins to rotate at a speed that is set as the operating speed of the power tool (of course, it’s very good when you have the ability to manually adjust the torque on the electric drill). Arm yourself with a sharpener and move it evenly along the surface of the metal corner, remove shavings from the workpiece, so that the work is safe, be sure to wear not only thick protective gloves, but also plastic glasses, as well as a respirator to avoid getting caught small particles wood shavings into the respiratory tract.
It is very difficult to make such things if you do not have the opportunity to make the main components to order in the factory. After all, the principle of operation of any copier is that there are additional elements, which move in several planes at once, which will make it possible to obtain identical products at the output. Without a programmed machine, doing this yourself is very difficult. On the Internet you can find several videos with examples of how certain ideas are brought to life, but be prepared that the process of debugging the copier’s operation can be quite lengthy. According to reviews from those who have made similar devices, it will be somewhat easier to make a slightly different one functional features a milling and copying machine based on a conventional milling machine.
All photos from the article
From wood you can create many of the most various products, but certain equipment is required to carry out the work. Almost anyone can make a simple lathe home handyman, its manufacture does not require many elements; it consists of several main parts.
We will look at how to assemble the structure and what components will be needed for the work. After spending a little time, you will get a reliable and practical design for wood turning.
What you will need to carry out the work
To manufacture the structure, various improvised components are used; the option discussed below is a kind of guide; you can change the elements for others, provided that reliability and performance are ensured. Let's look at what tools should be on hand to get the job done:
| Welding machine | Necessary for the manufacture of a strong and reliable frame, as well as for other components. If you do not have the skills to work with this type of equipment, then it is better to use the services of a specialist; the price of the services will not be too high |
| It is difficult to imagine any work with metal without this tool; it is used to cut and grind various elements. Most often, small devices with a disc size of 125 mm are enough; do not forget to stock up on cutting and grinding discs in advance, since during intensive work they are used up very quickly | |
| Thread cutting tools | Threading on connecting and fixing units is often required. For external threads, dies are used, for internal threads, taps are used. Naturally, the thread pitch on both elements must match |
| Drilling equipment | It could be stationary machine or electric drill. There are also manual options, but working with their help will take a lot of effort and take a long period of time. It is also necessary to have a set of drills on hand so that you can quickly make holes of different diameters |
Important! Also, take care in advance of supplying electricity to the equipment location, especially if a three-phase motor will be used.
Design and features of its assembly
First, let's figure out what the equipment consists of. The easiest way is to find ready-made drawings of a wood lathe - making them yourself without the appropriate experience is very problematic.
Machine components
Each element is very important, and without it it is unlikely that the structure will be assembled:
- The frame serves as a support for all elements, so increased requirements for reliability and strength are placed on it. Most often, a channel, angle or profile pipe with square or rectangular cross-section. The thickness of the elements must be sufficient to withstand even significant loads without harm to the structure, because maintaining geometric parameters is very important.
A homemade lathe for woodworking is a very useful thing for a true craftsman’s home; with its help you can make a variety of useful or simply beautiful things
The summer before last I made a wood lathe. Some design flaws have come to light and I will fix them next summer in the workshop (in a rebuilt barn at the dacha, by the way, look at what a beautiful fireplace for the dacha you can make with your own hands, as well as a homemade one solar collector For summer cottage). Dimensions of the machine; length 800 mm, width 400 mm, height 350 mm. Allows you to sharpen workpieces with a diameter of up to 250 mm and a length of up to 200 mm (on a faceplate, i.e. without centering with a tailstock) and with centering with a tailstock up to 400 mm. General view photo 1.
A homemade wood lathe consists of:
In the manufacture of a lathe, ordinary metalworking tools were used:
- drill with drill bits
- files
- small angle Sander(grinder with cutting and cleaning discs)
- electric welding machine with 3 mm and 2 mm electrodes.
Purchased on the construction market a metal profile (channel) and an angle, some pipes of two diameters (so that one pipe fits into the other), a 40 mm strip and a 20 mm strip. only for the amount of 600 rubles. Photo 2. The necessary fasteners were found in the garage. I purchased a drive belt from some machine separately (to fit the length).
The headstock from the sharpener met all the parameters - a high-mounted axis of rotation, protected thrust bearings on the axis, four alloy washers for fastening abrasive discs. Replaceable disks are attached to two washers on the left side to change the rotation speed, and on the right side there is a faceplate for installing the blank (also made from one of the washers)
The photo also shows part of the drill (an old burnt Soviet one) - a chuck and a metal body. This is precisely the most unfinished component of the machine.
Disadvantages: the stand is rather weak, no lead screw to move the headstock (moved with a lever and secured with a nut). The chuck itself is comfortable and allows forces along the chuck axis by default.
Photo 4 shows a bed with a support. It can move along the frame and across it, and is fixed with a wing nut. On the support there is a stand (pipe in a pipe) for adjusting the height of the stop bar for the cutters.
To select the diameters of the pulleys (i.e., change the rotation speed of the workpiece), a graph (found on the Internet) was used - the dependence of the rotation speed on the diameter of the workpiece and the hardness of the wood. Two frequencies are selected that overlap each other. Moreover, for some minor works with hard wood you can use a sharpener motor i.e. with the drive turned off (removing the belt and turning off the motor). This way I can set three rotation speeds - 800, 2000, 3000 rpm. , practically covering my needs.
In the photo we see a rubberized cartridge on the axis of the electric motor, which plays the role of a drive pulley, two driven pulleys (each made of two layers of ten-millimeter plywood) and a faceplate with holes for screws securing the workpiece. The faceplate is simply screwed onto the sharpener axis (i.e., the headstock) after installing the blank.
To mount the motor, a platform is made of thick plywood, and the headstock stands on it (thereby increasing the possibility of turning larger diameter). To adjust the belt tension, the motor stands on a small plate (no photo), which has the ability to move along the platform and be fixed on it. As a rule, professionals who have chosen this job or hobby make the equipment themselves - cutters different types. I bought ready-made and inexpensive ones for the first time - five cutters for 350 rubles each.
To process cylindrical or cone-shaped wooden blanks, you need a wood lathe. Woodworkers prefer not to install expensive production equipment in their home workshops industrial production, but make a mini version of it yourself.
Homemade turning station Anok for wood costs much less than factory-made analogues, and its characteristics, if properly executed, will not be inferior to factory-produced equipment.
In contact with
Machine capabilities
Device lathe woodworking can be quite simple. But in order for the milling unit to successfully perform its functions, before manufacturing it, study the specifics of the equipment itself and its use.
- front and rear stock;
- frame;
- electric drive;
- special fasteners;
- block for regulating rotation speed.
There should also be a special stop for incisors of different shapes. For complex operations there must be possibility of workpiece displacement relative to the axis of rotation.
The main element of the machine is the electric drive. Most often, its role is played by a three-phase electric motor. Therefore, a three-phase power supply line is required to the workshop.
Rotation frequency electric motor design should not exceed 1500 rpm. Depending on the type of motor, its connection to the network is carried out in a “star” or “triangle”.
The most common dimensions of a homemade unit:
- height - 350 mm;
- width - 400 mm;
- length - 800 mm.
Such dimensions make it possible to process workpieces with a diameter of up to 250 mm and a length of up to 200 mm without centering using a tailstock. The workpiece is attached to special faceplate. When using the tailstock for centering, the length of the workpiece can increase to 400 mm.
Self-production
The electric drive can be an old electric sharpener, which is designed for two sharpening stones. Depending on the device, this element can perform in the design homemade machine headstock functions.
Parts of a powerful old electric drill can be used as a tailstock. The bed is being manufactured made of thick-walled metal profile.
For manufacturing you will need the following metalworking tools:
- files of different grain size and size;
- hand-held electric drill and a set of drills for it;
- corner Grinder- grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- electric welding machine and electrodes 2 mm and 3 mm.
You will also need certain building materials, namely:
- thick-walled metal corner;
- channel;
- two pipes - the smaller one should fit into the larger one;
- steel strips 20 mm and 40 mm wide;
- fasteners;
- drive belt.
A video demonstrating the stages of creating the unit will help you design a wood lathe with your own hands. Look at it before drawing.
An electric sharpener is suitable for making a headstock, since the axis of rotation is located high, and the unit also has four carbide washers.
Two of them are used for installation sharpened on the shaft interchangeable disks of different diameters, with the help of which the rotation speed is changed. On back side Using one washer, a special faceplate is made to secure the blank.
The shaft is driven by pulleys of different diameters, which provide rotation speed (rpm): 800, 2000, 3000. If possible, a combined pulley with different diameters is manufactured seats for the drive belt.
Bed, tailstock, stop
From an old hand-held electric drill, the front part of the body and the chuck are taken out, which serve to create the tailstock. In this case, choose a drill with a metal body.
To secure the machine, a stand is made, which is fixed to the machine bed so that the unit can be moved along the longitudinal axis of the unit. Chuck device allows significant longitudinal loads to be placed on it.
The bed is made from pieces of channel material. Its elements are connected by welding. To install the electric sharpener, a platform made of thick plywood is fixed to the frame.
The electric drive is installed on a special plate, which is fixed to the table where the frame is installed. The plate is made in such a way that it can be moved in the direction of movement of the belt. This achieves adjustment of the speed of rotation of the headstock shaft.
A caliper is fixed to the frame, which can smoothly move across and along the frame. The caliper is made of 2 pipes of different diameters. The assembly is secured with a wing nut. A stop bar is attached to the support, where the cutters are located during operation of the machine.
You can make cutters yourself using tool steel plates or simply buy them. A set of working tools costs from 300 rubles. The cost determines the quality of the cutters and their quantity in the set.
Washing machine motor equipment
- Prepare the basis for placing the structural elements. Connect the beams with crossbars and additionally secure them with two corners at the top.
- Attach the motor to the headstock.
- The base of the tailstock is a spinning center that is attached to a support.
- The support for the rear beam is made from a corner. The clip is threaded onto the support axis and welded to the guide beams. The tailstock and stop are movable.
- To fix the moving elements, holes are prepared.
- The prepared parts are fastened together using spot welding.
Mini machine
The machine, whose dimensions do not exceed 20-30 cm, can be made from a motor and a power supply from a Soviet-made radio. This machine can be used to process various small wooden parts of handles, key chains, etc.
Assembly:
- From metal sheet(1-2 mm) a box is made for the engine. The plate is given U-shape, a hole for the shaft is prepared.
- A supporting frame, a tailstock and stops for a compact engine are made from a wooden block (2-3 cm thick).
- Wooden squares are cut and stacked. Fixation can be done with PVA glue.
- The “tower” is secured with four self-tapping screws.
- A metal rod is placed on the engine pulley, and a point for placing the holder (screw) is marked.
- The counter holder on the motor side is a faceplate.
Podruchnik
A tool rest is a support for a cutting tool. This element is extremely important for worker safety. If the workpiece jumps out of the clamps, the entire structure will fall.
If, due to the unreliability of the tool rest, the cutter is pulled out of your hands, there will be an injury!
When making a bracket for a hand rest, it is recommended to provide the possibility of both horizontal movement, and rotation around the mounting axis. No vertical movement is needed, just minor adjustments. The support plane must be in the same horizon as the axis of rotation of the workpiece.
This information may seem unnecessary, but since safety comes first, we will focus your attention on the following:
- The workpiece must rotate on the worker (on the cutting edge).
- Before processing with cutters, give the workpiece a shape as close to cylindrical as possible. For this purpose, you can use a rasp that is pressed with a plane.
- It is safer to press the cutter against the workpiece under acute angle. Further, as the shape is given, the angle is drawn onto a straight line, without separation from the surface.
- Don't try to get smooth surface cutting tool, sand with sandpaper. Wear gloves to avoid getting burned due to friction.
- For processing hard rocks For wood, set high speeds; for processing soft wood, set low speeds.
Basic operating rules
Information on how to operate the machine can be obtained from the training video. It will introduce you to work rules and safety standards.
The general rules include a number of points that require mandatory implementation. The main ones are the following:
- The workpiece must be free of knots and defects.
- Installation and fastening of the workpiece is carried out using special fasteners, which are located on the headstock shaft and on the rear panel.
- The number of revolutions is made by rearranging the drive belt on the drive pulleys with different sizes seats.
- During the processing process, the actual dimensions of the workpiece are periodically measured.
Operating a woodworking lathe requires experience, as one awkward movement of the cutter can ruin the workpiece.
The frame must be manufactured with special care to ensure good stability during operation. The quality of work of other components depends on the quality of manufacturing of this element. The disadvantage is the high labor intensity when changing the spindle speed.
The choice of rotation speed of the headstock shaft depends on the size of the workpiece and the type of wood. A special table of the dependence of the rotation speed on the wood and the diameter of the workpiece will help you select the rotation speed.
