How to store grapes in winter. How to choose good storage material? Germination of cuttings and planting

Propagation of grapes at home using chibouks is a common activity. The material for planting next year is pencil-thin cuttings. Its length varies from 50 – 60 to 70 cm. A seedling is considered high quality if it has 3 – 4 strong buds. Let's look at how to preserve grape cuttings in winter, so that to the beginning warm season they were capable of propagating culture.

When is the best time to take cuttings?

People who are far from growing grapes believe that it is best to cut chibouks in the spring. But this opinion is wrong, because until next year the material will simply rot or dry out. If the cut cutting is immediately inserted into the ground, without allowing it to overwinter in conditions suitable for storage, it will quickly dry out and not even take root. In addition, a wound will remain on the “operated” vine, which will become a gateway for the invasion of grape pathogens. It turns out that it is better to save the cuttings cut in the fall than to spoil the material and waste time.

The shoots are harvested in October, when the processes of vegetation and sap flow in the bushes are suspended. The cuts heal over the winter, and the injured cambium vessels become clogged. Before the beginning of spring, the plants are restored, and the summer resident does not have to worry about their infection.

Petioles are cut from healthy and mature annual vines. The readiness of a plant for reproduction is checked in two ways:

Branch bend. A sufficiently developed branch produces a slight crackling sound.
Iodine treatment of the cut. The stalk is cut off, and its former location is smeared with iodine. If the vine is mature, the cut quickly turns black.

Shoots that are too thin or thick are not used for propagation. Such planting material is considered to be of poor quality. It is optimal to cut cuttings from the middle part of the shoot, which has accumulated reserves over the summer useful substances for wintering in natural conditions. The thickness of the shoots should be 5 - 8 mm. If all conditions for harvesting grape cuttings are met, the chances of rapid rooting and survival of young plants increase significantly.

Conditions for storing pipes

In order for the chibouks to cope well with storage during the winter, the summer resident must create the following conditions for them:

Inaccessibility to rodents.
High humidity level - up to 90%.
The air temperature in the room is from 1 to 4 degrees Celsius.

If the vines are harvested in large quantities for future planting, you can get by with a regular basement. The temperature there is always the same, but the owner must take care to protect the shoots from pests. Periodically you need to visit the cellar and moisten, ventilate and inspect the petioles for damage.

Preparing grape cuttings for storage involves several steps. The most important of these is to provide the material with sufficient moisture. In a cut vine, the water concentration drops sharply. If the cutting loses about 20% of its moisture, it will not be able to become a full-fledged seedling. This cannot be allowed, which means that the prepared material must be transferred to storage as soon as possible. Even if the petiole lies under the bush for one day, the proportion of dehydration will be 2 - 3%.

There is no need to soak fresh chibouks. But a slight soaking is still allowed. To prevent the buds from suffocating and the raw materials from rotting, the vine is placed in clean, fresh water (ideally spring water). The petioles can lie in water from 2–3 hours to several days.

Shoots are protected from pests and possible diseases by processing or iron sulfate(3% concentrate). Then the vines are placed in plastic bags so that the top is visible. Individual specimens are tied in bunches and the cuttings are removed to a suitable room.

What places are there to store cuttings?

Storing pipes in the refrigerator

If the number of cuttings is small and their length reaches half a meter, you can store the grapes until spring in a household refrigerator. The central shelves of the unit are placed so that a niche is formed. The distance between shelves should be at least 10 cm.

The vines are sent for storage in the refrigerator not in a plastic bag, but in a thin cloth or gauze, previously soaked in a vitriol solution. The package is additionally wrapped in cellophane and placed on the refrigerator shelf. Once a month, the contents of the package are reviewed and, if necessary, moistened and wiped with vitriol.

Basement or cellar

If you don't know how to store cuttings in the basement, simply put them in thick polyethylene bags and place them on a shelf. Visit them once a month and check the quality. Moisten dried shoots, correct moldy shoots with a rag soaked in a 3% solution of copper sulfate. Prepare the preparation at the rate of 1 tsp. per glass of water.

If you can get sand or pine sawdust, great. Pour them into bags and insert the pipes. The sawdust will accumulate carbon dioxide. This substance is dangerous for grape pathogens. Also, its presence reduces the consumption of carbohydrates by seedlings. Sawdust and sand should have moderate moisture. Excess moisture harms planting material.

How to store cuttings in a trench

To preserve grape seedlings until spring, some summer residents dig a trench 1 spade deep. A ditch is dug where water does not stagnate. In this case, the chibouks are not wrapped in film, otherwise they will rot. They are immediately placed in the ditch and covered with soil.

In February-March, overwintered material is removed from storage and inspected. Suitable for further landing cuttings are counted, a fresh cut of which shows green color. The bark should be smooth and not flaking. Mold is wiped off the shoots with a clean soft cloth. Low-quality raw materials are rejected. Well-preserved specimens are prepared for planting in open ground.

Setting up a luxurious vineyard on your own property is quick and easy. Even an inexperienced gardener can cope with this. There are several basic ways to plant grapes:

seedlings;
cuttings;
layering.

Cuttings are vegetative propagation method, as a result of which a young plant appears from a part of an old shoot - a cutting. For the propagation process, cuttings of a one-year-old fruit-bearing vine, called chubuks, are most often used. They may be green or woody.

The process is very labor-intensive and not the easiest. However, the success of the operation depends on proper compliance with all instructions.

Harvesting grape cuttings in autumn

In the fall, lignified cuttings are prepared. For the procedure, choose the time after the leaves fall, but before the onset of the first frost. During this period, the buds of the shoots are fully formed and contain a large number of nutrients. They will be able to easily survive the winter and will immediately begin to grow. This is one of the most reliable methods, giving 100% rooting.

How to properly prepare chibouks for storage?

To prepare material for planting, select a healthy grapevine with a diameter of up to 1 cm, and cut off its upper part. Leaves, tendrils, and unripe tops are removed from the cut shoots, keeping 4 eyes.

The upper cut is made a few centimeters above the upper bud. The lower part is cut vertically in three places, forming a cut about 3 cm in length. This procedure will ensure normal metabolism in the cuttings after planting in open ground.

The procedure is carried out with a sharp knife at an angle. It is important to prepare before starting the operation garden tools. To do this, it is cleaned and processed to prevent the spread of diseases.

Attention! Pruning the shanks is extremely important. If you cut the cutting incorrectly, it will dry out or die.

If you are preparing cuttings different varieties, they must be labeled and collected in bundles. This is done to prevent plants from infecting each other while at rest. Then they are immersed in water for a day. Then it is treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and dried well.

After this, they are placed in plastic wrap and sent for storage. The cuttings must survive the winter, get stronger and in early spring they can be planted in open ground on permanent place growth.

Important! Treating cuttings with water and vitriol not only promotes disinfection, but also accumulates a supply of nutrients that will help the plant survive hibernation.

How to choose good planting material?

The success of the operation directly depends on the quality planting material. Before you start pruning, select healthy and strong cuttings.

You need to start with a preliminary inspection of the vine. The color of the shoots should be uniform brown-green. There should be no damage, cuts, stains or rot.

The diameter of a healthy stem should range from 0.6 to 1.0 cm. The length can vary from 12 to 60 cm. A shoot that is too short will not be able to survive the winter due to lack of strength and nutrients. Cuttings that are too long do not store well.

Preserving 2 to 4 buds will allow the plant to quickly take root and immediately enter the development and growth phase when transplanted into open ground.

Conditions for storing grape seedlings in winter

Preserving the chibouks until spring is also a mandatory procedure. Optimal conditions storage temperature is considered to be from 0 to +5 degrees Celsius. It is important to ensure that mold does not form. The storage room should be dark to prevent direct sunlight.

Storage technologies before planting in the ground

During storage, the plant loses half of its nutrients and quickly weakens, becoming unsuitable for planting. the main task procedure is to reduce losses. You can store cuttings in the basement, refrigerator or buried in the ground. Low temperature and darkness slow down vital processes and lead to a decrease in nutrient consumption.

How to store in a basement or cellar?

When storing pipes in the basement, it is important to ensure that the temperature is constant. It should not fall below 0 degrees. Otherwise, the air will become too cold and the vine will freeze. It is important not to allow the temperature to rise above +4 degrees. In this case, the buds will begin to swell and bloom ahead of time. You can regulate the temperature and humidity conditions of the room by providing ventilation and airing.

It is important to ventilate the cuttings themselves. For this purpose in plastic film, which is used to wrap the shoots, make several holes. At least once a month, the film is unrolled and the cuttings are inspected. If mold forms, wipe it with a cloth soaked in a solution of copper sulfate. When the vine dries out, it is moistened with water.

Another popular way to retain moisture and reduce nutrient loss is to use wet sand or pine sawdust. To do this, they are added in small quantities to plastic bag, in which the cuttings are stored.

How to store in the refrigerator before planting?

This method is only good for storing a small number of cuttings, the length of which does not exceed half a meter. In this case, the shelves with cuttings are placed at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other.

The cuttings, prepared and treated with water and vitriol, are wrapped in a thin cloth and placed in plastic bags. Once a month, the packages need to be opened and the vines processed copper sulfate and moisturize.

Interesting! To make sure that the temperature in the bundle meets the standards, experienced gardeners put a thermometer in it for a couple of hours.

In the trench

One of the simplest and least labor-intensive ways to store cuttings is by digging. To do this, dig a shallow hole, place shoots in it and cover it with earth. It is necessary to choose a secluded place where water does not accumulate, otherwise the cuttings may rot. Dry soil will perfectly protect against mold, disease and retain nutrients.

How to save purchased seedlings before planting

Most often, seedlings go on sale in late autumn or winter. However, it is recommended to plant them in open ground in the spring. You can find out how to preserve them before planting from the video.

Harvesting grape cuttings in spring

Green cuttings can be used to propagate grapes. They are prepared in the spring, 2 weeks before the plant enters the flowering phase.

First of all, choose healthy shoots. On the cut cuttings, 2 eyes are kept, and the leaf blades are cut in half.

Next, the chibouks are immersed in water for a day and covered with a cloth. Rooting begins immediately. To do this, prepare containers in which a bottom drainage layer of pebbles is placed, and fertilizer and sand are added. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 4 cm, at a distance of 10 cm from each other.

The containers are covered with film for preservation. high temperature and humidity. During the first month from the moment of planting, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at 100%, air humidity at 85% and temperature up to 30 degrees Celsius.

In subsequent months, the number of waterings is gradually reduced to 2 times a day. After the cuttings germinate, the film must be removed, starting to accustom the plant to natural environmental conditions.

By the end of summer, it is necessary to treat the chibuki with fungicides to prevent the development of diseases. It is recommended to leave the cuttings in this form for a year for full development and begin replanting in the spring.

Germination of cuttings and planting

In open ground it is carried out in early spring. Before starting the procedure, the tufts must be prepared and rooted.

To do this, a couple of weeks before planting, they are taken out of storage and transplanted into plastic cups. This will help the plant quickly adapt and break dormancy.

First, the cuttings are soaked for up to 48 hours in warm water. Then several holes are made at the bottom of the cups. Then earth and humus. Sprinkle fine sand on top. The cutting is placed in the center to a depth of about 4 cm and then watered.

You can learn more about the process from the video.

Main mistakes when choosing and storing pipes

It is important to choose healthy and strong shoots for pruning. They should be about 8mm thick. It is recommended to cut the middle part of the vine, as this is where healthy buds and a large amount of nutrients are concentrated.
During the period of preservation of the chibouks before planting, they lose a large amount of moisture. In order to replenish it, they need to be soaked in water for two days.
To protect cuttings from diseases, they must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate. To do this, add a spoonful of the substance to 1 glass of water.
If cuttings are kept in the ground, they should be protected from rotting. To do this, the outside air temperature should be about 0 degrees. You can mix soil with sand.

Useful video

Learn more about storing chibouks in the video below:

Bottom line

Anyone can grow grapes on their own plot. Cuttings are one of the most economical and successful methods of propagation. Don't be afraid to experiment with grape varieties you like. If you strictly follow the basic recommendations, a rich harvest healthy berries provided for you.

Grapevines cut into cuttings (chubuki) in the fall are the basis of your future vineyard. And the yield and survival rate of the vaccinations in the spring of next year depends on how you prepare or purchase it, how you store it. The main thing is to always remember that the cutting is a living, breathing organism.

SLICING. Grape cuttings are harvested in the fall, in late October - early December. Ideally, after the first frost, before the onset of frost of more than 10 degrees. At this time, the content of nutrients (sugars, starch, etc.) in the vine is maximum; in addition, it has been hardened by low positive and slightly negative temperatures.

The best vines for harvesting are fruit vines. Copper vines often fatten, their buds form in the shade and turn out to be underdeveloped. The thickness, ideally, should be 5-8 mm (like a pencil or a little thicker). True, if the vine is thinner, but has matured well, it is quite suitable for both rooting and grafting. I even like this kind of vine better – it’s more convenient to work with. Thick, finger-thick vines are also suitable for growing grape seedlings: they have a large supply of nutrients. The main thing is that they do not have a loose core of more than half the diameter of the cutting (this is a sign of a fattened vine). Such grape cuttings are poorly stored and rooted.

When harvesting, cuttings are cut not in the middle of the internode, but 2…3 centimeters above the node. This way we leave a sufficient section of the vine under the eye for future possible grafting of grapes. For harvesting, you need to choose healthy vines, without oidium stains, hailstones and others. mechanical damage. It is often written that crooked cuttings are bad. I disagree: they are biologically no different from straight ones. If you adapt to working with them, good luck!

A grape vine (bunch) cut from a bush must be labeled immediately to avoid confusion.

PREPARATION FOR STORAGE. Long vines store best, so try not to cut them unnecessarily. If possible, leave the lashes a meter - one and a half - two.

I’ll say right away about the classification of cuttings: short - 1-2 eyes, medium - 3-4 eyes, and long - 5 or more eyes (classification is conditional, with normal length of internodes). As a rule, 1-3-eyed cuttings are used for germination into seedlings, although 2-eyed cuttings are more convenient if the distance between the eyes is more than 10 cm; One-eyed, and very rarely two-eyed, are grafted.

Quite a lot important role for the viability of the vine is its water content. From the moment the cutting is cut, its water content constantly decreases. If a cutting loses more than 20% of the water it contains during storage, then its chances of becoming a seedling are practically zero, and prolonged soaking will not help. Cut well-ripened wood; under the same conditions, it dries out more slowly than poorly matured wood. Try to ensure that the grape cuttings travel from the cutting site to the storage site with a minimum of moisture loss. Remember: a vine left under a bush loses 2-3% of moisture per day!

If all conditions are met, then soaking before storing is rather harmful. If not, then depending on the degree of drying of the vine, it must be soaked from several hours to two days. The water should be as clean and soft as possible - spring, rain or melt. You cannot soak the vine for more than two days - the buds may suffocate!

If you do not know whether the vine was treated for fungal diseases before storing, then this must be done. Spray (wash) them with a 3% solution of iron or copper sulfate. And before storing it, ventilate the vine so that it does not go into a plastic bag wet.

I would like to particularly focus on this. Bathing in vitriol is necessary if you have received cuttings from other areas, or from people who do not particularly carefully monitor their vineyards.

And if you received grape seedlings with roots, you will first have to disinfect them in vitriol, and then deactivate them from phylloxera using BI-58, bazodin or another insecticide that can be used at low temperatures. Dilute them in water according to the instructions, and dip the roots, or even entire seedlings, into the solution for a minute, and then place them in a plastic bag for a day.

Labor intensive? Certainly! Therefore, it is better to take only cuttings from other areas, and even from your own, if you do not want to deal with pest control yourself. Seedlings can only be taken from trusted, well-established winegrowers who guarantee pre-sale processing. Don’t be lazy, ask what and how they processed it! Remember that the entire territory of Ukraine, especially the areas of industrial viticulture (Odessa, Kherson, Nikolaev and Crimea) is a zone of continuous infection with phylloxera, and its appearance in amateur vineyards is a matter of time and our cleanliness. Moreover, with frequent cases of uncontrolled sale of grape seedlings from industrial vineyards in the south of Ukraine. Once you bring this quarantine pest into your home, you won’t be able to get rid of it!

STORAGE. If we take into account that during storage, stratification and pickling, up to 50% of the stored nutrients are lost, then the vine may be completely weakened by the time of planting. We need to ensure that the loss of carbohydrates during storage of grape cuttings is minimal. The lower the temperature, the lower the respiration intensity, the less energy substances are consumed, but the vine cannot be stored below 0°C - at negative temperatures The cuttings dry out rapidly. Therefore, by the way, it is not recommended to harvest vines in the spring from bushes that have stood uncovered during the winter, because The percentage of sprouted buds in such cuttings is much lower than those harvested in the fall.

It turns out that the ideal temperature for storing vines should be slightly above 0°C. Experiments by scientists have established that at a temperature of +0.4°C it is possible to keep the carbohydrate content in grape wood unchanged until mid-March.

This is, of course, ideal. In our real conditions, the vine is stored either in a trench, or in a cellar, or in a refrigerator in the kitchen. In any case, the temperature should not exceed +8°C, otherwise the buds will begin to swell and bloom. But at this temperature, the cuttings breathe more actively and lose moisture. Therefore, they must be in a humid environment.

The easiest way is to store cuttings in a container. Choose a secluded place, dig a trench bayonet deep and place the cuttings there. Cover with soil. In this case, you cannot pack them in plastic - they will rot! Consider the material of the labels - after several months in the ground they should remain readable. The burial site should prevent stagnation of water.

When stored in the cellar, they are moistened and placed in plastic or polypropylene bags. Once a month, the vine needs to be checked: if it’s dried out, moisten it; if it’s moldy, wipe it with a rag soaked in a 3% solution of iron or copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per glass of water).

Again about the ideal that we need to strive for - this is storage in a cellar, in (slightly) damp sand, or even better - in bags with slightly damp pine sawdust. In this case, the carbon dioxide accumulated in the bag preserves harmful microflora and at the same time inhibits the consumption of carbohydrates (starch) for respiration. The most important thing is to prevent sand or sawdust from becoming waterlogged when planting cuttings. But not everyone has this opportunity...

A small number of grape cuttings, for your own needs: spring grafting or, can be stored in a household refrigerator. In the middle part of the refrigerator, place the shelves so that there is a minimum distance between them (about 10 cm) - you get a niche for storage. Wrap the cuttings in gauze or thin cloth, slightly moistened with the same solution of vitriol that was used to treat the vine, place it in a plastic bag and put it in the refrigerator. Check it once a month. When dry, moisten, and when mold appears, wipe with vitriol solution.

Another tip: before putting the cuttings in the refrigerator, put a thermometer there for a couple of hours (or better yet, overnight). Just in case. For me, this action led to a call to the refrigerator technician: it turns out that the temperature in the refrigerator did not drop below +13°C, with the thermostat set to maximum cold!

Now, as expected, it is +4 ... +5°С. And my wife doesn’t grumble about taking up space in the refrigerator: the cuttings saved a lot of food!

EXTRACT. When extracting, the grape cuttings are wiped with a rag to remove mold and vitriol residues. A well-preserved cutting should not be overdried, have wrinkled or peeling bark, and should be bright green when cut.

Before planting to obtain grape seedlings or grafting, cuttings are cut and soaked for 12-24 hours, sometimes with the addition of stimulants. Planting and grafting are carried out immediately after soaking is completed.

Growing grapes can bring not only good harvest, but also unforgettable pleasure from this process. But for this you will have to try hard and make sure that the grapevine successfully copes with the autumn and winter colds.

If you don’t want to get less and less harvest every year, and then completely plant a new vine, then you will need useful recommendations, given below.

The influence of frost on the condition of the grapevine

Prolonged and intensifying frosts have an extremely negative impact on the grapevine. If you do not take appropriate measures, you can not only lose the next harvest, but also completely destroy the vine.

Destruction of perennial branches and annual growth of grapes. This is a very common situation that can result in the cessation of active germination for them. Their place can be taken by shoots from shoots and dormant buds, which delays the process of obtaining the desired harvest.
Destruction of the above-ground parts of grapes. It occurs quite often and has serious consequences in the future. The good news is that the root system was not damaged by frost, so it will continue to ensure the growth of the vine.
Destruction of buds with increased fertility. Instead of the process of rapid flowering beginning, new shoots will appear. As a result, lost time and poor chances of getting a harvest.

There is also a danger of destroying not only the aboveground part of the grapes, but also the root system. In this case, you can’t even dream of any harvest, and attempts to correct the situation will lead to nothing. This is considered the most critical damage to the grapevine.

Even less frost-resistant grapes need proper care, not to mention those varieties that cannot cope with frost on their own.

The first thing you should do is carefully examine the grape bush. If you come across damaged, diseased or old vines, they must be removed immediately. Those branches that have already produced a grape harvest should also be removed, but after some time. Ideally, at the moment of the first frost.

This time will allow the grapes to get stronger and gain the necessary nutrients, which will significantly increase their chances of successfully withstanding frost. Otherwise, he will be more vulnerable.

Catarrh deserves special attention, as it will allow deep roots to strengthen and take root.

To do this you need to do the following:

Dig a small ditch (up to 20 centimeters) around the grape trunk.
Remove any roots that are flush with the main root.
Prepare copper sulfate and treat the cuts with it.
Fill the dug ditch with dry sand.
Loosen the soil around the grape bush and water generously.

The last thing you need to do is water your grape vine well. Experienced summer residents and gardeners call this process moisture-recharging irrigation. The optimal time for such watering is the end of October or the beginning of November. If October is rainy, then moisture-recharging irrigation will not be needed. Immediately after this, the bush should be covered.

How to prepare a grapevine for the winter and what you should pay attention to

Proper preparation for winter is:

Regular inspection of grape bushes for fungal infections.
Timely removal of damaged and dry branches.
Treatment of the vineyard with fungicides (it is recommended to increase their dosage after harvest).
Fertilize with mineral and organic fertilizers.

It is advisable not to delay covering the grape bushes. The more thoroughly they are covered, the more nutrients will be spent on enhancing life processes. Temperature also plays an important role. A warm shelter will better prepare the grapes for the upcoming frosts.

Pay attention to whether the wood has time to mature. Greenish wood will not only not be able to cope with winter conditions, but will also create a lot of problems for the other part of the grapes through the appearance of fungal diseases and mold.

Aged wood is colored brown and can make a slight cracking sound when bent without deforming. A vine with such wood has a good chance of becoming immune even to severe frosts because it retains warmth.

What you need for mature wood on a grapevine:

A suitable grape variety that can ripen quickly under the climatic conditions of your area.
Maintaining the health of the grape bush.
Removing unnecessary and damaged branches.
Monitoring the load of the vine. An overloaded vine significantly delays the ripening process of wood.
Grape feeding necessary fertilizers from potassium.
Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied before mid-summer. Otherwise, the grapes will begin to waste their energy on creating excess green mass.
Carrying out a thorough autumn chasing (cutting shoots above the fifteenth leaf).

Important note! Minting should be done only after the growth of the vine has begun to slow down. The straight tops of the grapes indicate that the growth process has begun to degrade. If they are bent, then you need to wait a little longer.

After the final pruning of branches and catarosis, it is necessary to ensure good shelter grape bush. You should carefully bend it and tie it in such a way as not to deform its branches. Given changing weather conditions, grapes can be covered on different calendar days.

It is not necessary to rush to the grape bushes to protect them from the first frosts. Such hardening will only benefit them, because the grapevine will become noticeably stronger and gain a certain resistance to cold.

Those shoots that you have cut and pre-treated with copper sulfate should be placed on the ground and their position should be secured with staples. This should be done with extreme care. It is better if there is a bedding of dry branches and leaves under them.

They can show off from above wooden boards with beekeepers. This will increase the space around the stems and become additional protection from frost. After this, you need to cover the shields with any waterproof material. For example, polyethylene or roofing felt. Be sure to add dry branches or a small amount of soil to prevent the material from being blown away by the wind.

Let's sum it up

Caring for a grape bush is a very difficult task not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners and summer residents. The main thing is the sequence of actions and working conscientiously.

As time passes and experience in this area accumulates, you can be convinced that you can prepare grapes for winter using both proven and your own methods.

" Grape

Spring period And most of The summers are busy for most gardeners. Taking care of fruit crops, it takes a lot of time and effort, but it’s so nice to harvest. But it’s too early to relax, because you need to think about how to distribute the fruits for processing, create favorable conditions For long-term storage at home. This review will discuss how you can preserve grapes for the winter.

No matter how long the wait, there comes a time when all the grapes have to be removed from the vine. Of course, it is possible to immediately process it into juices, wine and canning. But an even greater desire arises to enjoy fresh berries filled with multifaceted aroma. Preserving grapes at home for several months is quite possible, given important factors:

crop variety medium or late ripening with loose clusters is selected;
the berry should have dense pulp and thick skin;
when growing grapes yourself, pay attention rules of agricultural technology, they affect the safety of fruits;
Harvesting should only be done when it is ripe(not green or overripe), and work should be carried out in dry, sunny weather;
when removing bunches you need to try do not damage the wax coating, it promotes long-term storage (it is recommended to use rubber gloves for this);
before storage should be sorted damaged or spoiled grapes;
wash collected brushes is strictly prohibited; such a procedure only accelerates damage to the workpiece.

The easiest varieties can be stored at home for up to 5-6 months. These include: Kutuzovsky, Autumn black, Moldavian black, Vierup-59, December, .

Which varieties are suitable for long-term storage?

Before purchasing grapes for planting, you should decide in further ways storage and processing of crops. If you want to harvest fresh grapes for New Year's table, then it is recommended to consider varieties that are suitable for long-term storage and will not create problems during storage.

In memory of Negrul

The variety was developed as a result of crossing Corna Neagra and Datier de Saint-Vallier. A plant with an average ripening period tolerates frosts well, is highly resistant to typical diseases. The grapes are ripening on the bushes cylindrical medium size, weight reaches 400-700 g. The ovoid berries are almost black in color. Each weight is 5-9 grams. The sugar content in fruits is 16-18% with an acidity of 5-7 g/l.

Features of the variety:

fruit covered with a dense wax coating, which ensures long-term storage;
the plant has good immunity;
powerful bush skeleton allows you to harvest increased yields;
insects practically do not attack the grapevine.

Original

This variety has several varieties, the main difference of which is the color of the berries. There are three of them: white, pink and black. All plants are frost-resistant (down to -21°) and long-term storage of berries. This is facilitated by the thick skin of the fruit and a waxy coating.

bunch weight– 400-600 g, some specimens weigh up to 2 kg;
berry shape ovoid, weight of one is 10-12 g;
taste without pronounced notes, but at the same time harmonious;
high yield(with proper care, up to 100 kg of fruit can be removed from the bush).

Fresh berries can be stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 130 days.

Crane Anniversary

A late ripening plant with a growing season of 150-167 days. The vigor of the bush is average, but this does not prevent the formation of large conical clusters, whose weight reaches 400-500 g. There are specimens up to 1.4 kg. The taste is simple, but the sweetness is well felt (18-19% with an acid of 8.5-9 g/l).

Grape Features:

early entry into the period fruiting of a young vine(in the second year after disembarkation);
fertility indicators and productivity tall;
frost resistance(up to -25°);
strong immunity minimizes preventative measures.

Fresh berries can be stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 130 days.

Nistru

The plant is medium-sized with a growing season of 156-167 days. The variety was obtained by crossing Nimrang and Pierrell. Beautiful cylindrical clusters weighing 700-800 grams ripen on the bushes, but there are also real record holders, reaching 3 kg. The brush density is medium. The yellow-green berry has an oval shape, and at the ripe stage it becomes covered with a pinkish tint. The weight of one is 7-8 grams. Sugar content – 16% with acid 7 g/l.

Features of the variety:

strong immunity(allows you to grow crops without spraying);
frost resistance up to minus 21°;
vine does not require shelter for the winter;
good transportability.

Fresh berries can be stored at home at a certain temperature for up to 140 days.

Ways to preserve grapes in winter

Choose the right variety grapes for long-term storage is only half the battle. The second part is in choise suitable method and creation comfortable conditions for the bunch, so that it looks presentable and fresh on the table. Where to store grapes and how long will they last?

In the cellar

Sorted grapes can be stored in a cellar or basement in winter, if it is observed there temperature regime from +1° to +8°. Air humidity is suitable at high levels (70-80%), otherwise the fruits will dry out quickly. However, overmoistening should not be allowed, otherwise rot or mold will soon form on the workpieces. To regulate this process, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the room or install a forced ventilation system. A bucket of quicklime or charcoal placed in close proximity to the stored crop will also help reduce humidity.

Periodically (at least once a week) you need to inspect the fruits; any spoiled berries are carefully removed from the brush and disposed of.

When choosing a place for grapes it is worth giving up proximity to zucchini, potatoes and other vegetables, capable of releasing moisture. It is better to find a secluded corner away from other products.

Using water containers

This method is appropriate to use when storing small amounts of crops. The essence of the method is to cut the bunches together with the vine, after which the long end of the branch is placed in a bottle (or other vessel) with water. The bunch of grapes should hang freely, so the container is fixed at an angle. To prevent bacteria from developing in the water, add a tablet of activated carbon or aspirin to it. This will help prevent rot from forming. When stored this way, the bunches remain fresh for up to 2 months, sometimes until the New Year.

Periodically, the vine should be cut (renewed) to allow the grapes to replenish moisture.

On a wire

The sorted bunches are tied in pairs by the combs. Twine is used for tying. Next, several rows of wire are stretched in the cellar or basement and the brushes are secured with clothespins or thread. The grapes should be placed tightly, but with an interval for air circulation (at least 3-5 cm).

The preparations are periodically inspected to remove damaged berries. The more thoroughly you clean, the longer the fruits will last.

It is better to pull the twine or wire at different heights so that the bunches do not touch each other. It is necessary to line the floor under the hangings with burlap or plastic film for timely collection of fallen berries. If this is not done, a vinegar fly will appear, which will cause bacteria to infect the entire crop.

Application of boxes

Dry materials are used as containers. wooden boxes or tubs. Before filling the tree with fruits, it must be treated with an antiseptic or the container must be fumigated with sulfur. After complete drying, a layer of sawdust or straw (2-3 cm thick) is lined on the bottom. Dry bunches, pre-sorted, are laid out on a layer so that the grapes do not touch each other. Each row is covered with a layer of sawdust. Sawdust material is poured over the brushes, and the container is covered with a lid. There is no need to fill the box with fruits to the very top; it is important that there is a little space left between the lid and the sawdust for air circulation.

When choosing sawdust Pine and spruce should be abandoned. The aroma of pine needles negatively affects taste qualities grapes It's better to give preference fruit trees, as well as poplar or linden.

Proper freezing in the freezer

Preserve the taste and aroma of berries You can also freeze them. Dark and white varieties are suitable for this method, but the former last longer. It is important not to re-expose the grapes to low temperatures.

The sequence of how to properly freeze fruits:

Thoroughly peel the grapes from damaged berries and debris. Rinse them and dry naturally.
Place the brushes on a tray so that the grapes do not touch each other. Place them in the refrigerator for a couple of hours.
Place the tray with the preparation for half an hour into the chamber and freeze.
After aging in the freezer, remove the fruits and package in portions into containers.
Place in the freezer for storage. The storage temperature is set at -24°C.

You can freeze either whole clusters or individual berries. The shelf life with this processing method is 7-8 months.

Before eating, you need to remove the berries in advance and put them in the refrigerator for 18-20 hours for smooth defrosting. If necessary, the process is accelerated by immersing frozen berries in cool water, but with this method the taste is lost.

Light grape varieties are harvested with individual berries directly in sweet syrup. Grape processing sequence:

wash and dry the sorted bunches;
carefully separate every berry;
put on a tray one layer and send to freezer for 30 minutes;
make syrup from water and sugar, cool it;
remove the berries from the freezer and use a spoon water each one generously;
send again for 30 minutes in the freezer;
repeat the procedure after 30 minutes, turning it over frozen fruits;
frozen berries in syrup put in a container and store in the freezer (from -20° to -24°).

If you follow the recommendations of specialists and experienced gardeners, then You can enjoy delicious berries that benefit the body throughout the New Year holidays. In addition, the grapes themselves are worthy decoration festive table.