Flexible (or bitumen) tiles are the undoubted leader among commonly used materials for roofing. It is used in the field of low-rise construction and is perfect for decorating the roofs of residential buildings and various other buildings. Bituminous shingles, the installation technology of which is quite simple, has a lot of advantages due to its performance characteristics. Let's consider how the process of decorating a roof with this material occurs, whether it is complicated or whether the work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.
Bitumen shingles are a fairly soft roofing material, but at the same time strong and durable. It is made on the basis of fiberglass, which is covered on both sides with a layer created on the basis of bitumen. Its outer side - the front - usually has a special topping made from mineral chips. Its function is to provide protection from external influences such as precipitation and wind. In addition, due to this coating, bitumen shingles acquire a rather beautiful appearance.
The bottom layer of material covers sticky layer, which allows you to easily stand on the prepared base. It helps the tiles withstand the onslaught of bad weather, and also increases their airtightness.
On a note! Bituminous shingles first entered the building materials market at the beginning of the twentieth century. It appeared in America thanks to Henry Reynolds, a specialist at the Grand Rapids company. By the mid-twentieth century, about half of all low-rise buildings in the United States were covered with this roofing material.
The service life of bituminous shingles, if they were laid correctly and operated in compliance with all standards, is at least 30 years. It can be used on any roofs, including those with complex geometric shapes. The material does not place additional load on the rafters or foundation, is quite durable, and is not inferior in quality to the metal tiles that many are accustomed to. In addition, its installation is simple, and a large selection of colors/shapes allows you to match it to any style of home.
What is important to consider?
So, the installation of this material is quite simple and understandable even for novice craftsmen. However, in any case, it presupposes compliance with certain norms and rules, so before starting installation work It's important to get to know each other. So, what is important to remember when laying bitumen shingles:
- basis for such roof covering must be smooth, carefully leveled, sufficiently rigid and continuous;
- the roof must have excellent ventilation;
- When laying, it is important to observe the temperature regime, and therefore it is recommended to install this coating in the summer. The outside temperature should not be less than +5 degrees;
On a note! Installation of this type of tile can be carried out at a lower temperature, but in this case the material must be supplied to the roof from warm room and should not be stored until work begins outside. In cold weather, the adhesive layer must be warmed up with a hairdryer before installation.
- The timing of the work directly depends on the size of the roof, the experience of the craftsman and the type of material. On average, installation of bitumen shingles takes about 2-40 days. In the first case, the time indicator is optimal for a simple roof with two slopes. The more complex the roof, the longer it will take to tinker with laying the covering;
- The angle of the roof slope where bitumen shingles are mounted can vary from 10 to 90 degrees.
GOST 32806-2014. Bituminous tiles. Are common technical specifications. Downloadable file (click the link to open the PDF in a new window).
The right foundation is the key to success
As mentioned above, bitumen shingles are very demanding on the quality of the base on which they are laid. It must be continuous and carefully leveled. The materials for its creation can be different - plywood, wood, OSB boards etc. It is important to remember that when laying slabs or sheets of material, a small gap is always left between them. It will provide the possibility of compensatory expansion when the material increases in size under the influence of humidity or temperature. Otherwise (if there are no gaps) the roof will go in waves. The sheets are fastened to the sheathing using self-tapping screws or nails - the main thing is that their heads are recessed into the material.
Attention! The larger the step between the individual boards of the sheathing on which the sheets are laid, the thicker the material should be.
Table. Dependence of material thickness on lathing pitch.
| Step between individual sheathing elements, mm | Boards, thickness in mm | Plywood, thickness in mm | OSB board, thickness in mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| 600 | 20 | 12 | 12 |
| 900 | 23 | 18 | 18 |
| 1200 | 30 | 21 | 21 |
| 1500 | 37 | 27 | 27 |
Ventilation arrangement is also of great importance. These should be vents, openings to allow fresh air to enter, and openings for air to escape from under the roof.
Preparation for installation
For installation work soft tiles The following tools will be required:
- metal scissors;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- small spatula;
- construction hairdryer
Among the materials, the bitumen shingles themselves are useful, as well as mastic for creating hermetic joints, self-tapping screws, roofing fasteners, lining carpet or roofing felt, material for steam, hydro and thermal insulation, double-sided adhesive tape.
The installation process of flexible tiles
The technology for installing this type of tile is known to many craftsmen, as it has long come into use and is used quite often. Installation involves several stages of work - laying the underlay carpet, installing the eaves strip, laying the bitumen shingles themselves, designing the roof ridge and pipes.
Installation of eaves overhang
Step 1. The plank is applied to the edge of the blood, while a small protrusion of 10 cm extends beyond the roof boundary. This is necessary for the correct joining of the part with the gable strip. These elements are required to ensure protection of the roof from external factors.
Step 2. The eaves strip is fixed in its place with roofing nails at intervals of 15 cm, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern. The individual elements of the plank must be connected with an overlap, which should be at least 10-15 cm.
The bar fastening step is 15 cm
Step 4. The lower and upper edges of the plank are bent along the pediment using a hammer. Better to use rubber hammer. The curved edges are additionally fixed with a roofing nail.
Installation of the lining layer
The underlay carpet will not only provide good surface for styling flexible tiles, but also additional waterproofing of the roof.
Step 1. The self-adhesive underlay carpet is laid parallel to the eaves of the roof with the plant on it, while about 2-3 cm should remain to the edge of the eaves. The strips are glued parallel to the eaves so that subsequent sections of material overlap the previously laid ones. The overlap is at least 10 cm. Strips of material are glued from bottom to top onto the surface of the base - this way you can achieve better protection roofs from leaks. The roll is carefully rolled out, and protective film is gradually removed from under it.
Step 2. In the area where the chimney pipe is located, the lining carpet is cut in accordance with its shape and glued onto it with a little adjustment.
Attention! Underlayment carpet is required for installation in the roof valley and on the eaves. If the angle of the roof slope is 18 degrees or more, then the remaining surface of the base does not need to be covered. If the slope angle is 12-18 degrees, then the entire base will have to be covered, otherwise the roof will leak.
Step 3. Above the location of the self-adhesive carpet, a carpet with mechanical fixation can be used. It is rolled out over the roof surface so that its individual strips overlap by 15 cm; the same overlap is observed when laying the edge of the material on a previously laid self-adhesive carpet.
Carpet end overlap - 15 cm
Step 4. The overlap of a carpet with mechanical fixation onto a self-adhesive carpet is carried out by gluing a thermoactive strip. It will ensure reliable sealing of the joints.
Step 5. The underlayment is secured using nails and a hammer. It is desirable that the fasteners have a wide head. Step – 20 cm.
Step 6. All overlaps between sections of the lining carpet are coated with a thin layer of bitumen mastic to improve the sealing of the joints. It is most convenient to apply mastic using a metal spatula. The thickness of the composition layer should not exceed 1 mm.
Step 7 After laying the underlay carpets, the roof gable is covered with a gable strip.
Step 8 The edge of the plank is trimmed to the shape of the roof.
Step 9 The pediment plank is fixed with nails hammered in “checkerboard” in increments of 15 cm.
Step 10 In the valley area, an underlay carpet is also laid so that from the axial part of the valley it extends 50 cm to each side of the roof. At the bottom of the axis, a tongue of a certain shape is made on the carpet, which will allow rainwater to be drained evenly and correctly.
Next begins one of the most critical stages of roof covering – installation of the tiles themselves. Before starting work, it is recommended to apply markings that will allow the material to be laid neatly and evenly. This is especially important if the roof geometry has an unusual shape.
Step 1. The first row of tiles is mounted at a distance of 15 mm from the bend of the eaves strip. Before laying, the corner of the first sheet of tile is trimmed - this is necessary to drain rainwater.
Step 2. WITH wrong side a thin layer of mastic is applied to the tiles that will be located in the first row along the edge. The composition is also applied to the part that will lie on the gable plank.
Step 3. Missed bitumen mastic The tile is glued to the place chosen for it. In this case, it is important to leave 1.5 cm free to the edges of the gable and cornice strips. This is necessary for proper and efficient water drainage.
Step 4. The tiles are nailed with special roofing nails, which are equipped with a wide head. The first nail is driven in at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the material.
Step 5. Each shingle is secured with 5 nails, 2 of which are driven at the edges, the rest are evenly distributed in the middle of the shingles.
Step 6. In places adjacent to the gable part of the roof, each tile in subsequent rows is coated with bitumen mastic.
Step 7 The second row of tiles must be laid with the shingles offset relative to the first. The displacement can be 15-85 cm. The second row of tiles is laid with an overlap on the first, previously laid.
Step 8 A special valley carpet is laid in the valley area. The material is rolled out so as to cover the entire valley. WITH reverse side the edges of the material are coated with mastic at a distance of 10 cm from the edge.
Step 9 Additional fixation of the carpet is done using nails. They are hammered around the perimeter in increments of 20-25 cm.
Step 10 In the valley area, by analogy with conventional slopes, bitumen shingles are also installed.
Step 11 Along the axis of the valley, the tiles are trimmed at a distance of about 10 cm using a sharp knife.
Step 12 At the edges, the tiles along the axis of the valley are also trimmed (corners are trimmed) to drain rainwater. Also, each shingle is coated with mastic.
Step 13 The other part of the valley is designed in the same way. Thanks to this design, a gutter 10-15 cm wide is formed, through which water from the roof will easily flow into the drain.
Step 14 The edge of the roof (that is, its outer break) is formed using ridge-eaves tiles. Several shingles are breaking off on individual elements.
Step 15 The resulting elements have a self-adhesive strip on the reverse side. They are laid sticky side down on the edge of the roof, overlapping each other. The overlap is 3-5 cm. Also, the petals are additionally fixed with nails on each side of the slope - 2 nails per slope. The roof ridge is designed in the same way.
Video - Installation of flexible tiles
Installing roll tiles
Rolled tiles are in demand due to their simplicity and ease of installation, as well as high speed of work. It is also mounted on a perfectly flat solid base.
Step 1. The installation of cornice and pediment strips is carried out by analogy with the previous instructions.
Step 2. To improve adhesion, the surface is treated with a primer.
Step 3. It is recommended to install roll tiles vertically relative to the ridge or eaves of the roof. First of all, the roll is rolled out and a piece of the required length is cut from it, equal to the length of the roof slope. It is most convenient to cut using a long metal ruler or rule.
Step 4. The resulting segment is tried on in place.
Step 5. To make installation easier, the protective film is peeled off from the upper part of the backside and the rolled tiles are glued to the base in this place.
Step 6. The eaves and gable strips in places where roll tiles will be laid on them are coated with mastic.
Step 7 The protective film is pulled out from under the tiles, at which point the tiles are pressed against the base.
Step 8 The material is additionally fixed to the base with roofing nails.
Step 9 Roll tiles are installed in the same way in the valley of the roof.
Step 10 Excess material at the edges is trimmed in accordance with the shape of the roof.
Step 11 In the lower part of the valley, when cutting off excess material, a small shaped cutout is left, which will ensure uniform and effective removal water from the roof.
Step 12 The material is pierced with nails along the perimeter. This will further secure it in the valley. Step – 15-20 cm.
Step 13 A trench is formed from the material. To do this, another piece of rolled tile is laid overlapping the previously laid section in the valley.
Step 14 It is fixed in the upper part with nails.
Step 15 The next segment is tried on in place. At this point, it is important to ensure that the pattern on individual pieces of material matches.
Step 16 The protective tape is peeled off from the edge of the rolled tiles, and the material along the edge is pierced with nails. The last nail is driven no closer than 30 cm from the valley axis.
Step 17 The next piece of material is laid overlapping the previously laid one. The protective film from this part is carefully removed.
Step 18 After completing the valley, the excess rolled tiles are cut off. A board is placed under the layer of material to protect the bottom layer from cuts. The distance from the undercut to the valley axis should not exceed 7.5 cm.
Step 19 The overlap must be coated with mastic to increase the tightness.
Pattern for a chimney
Step 22 Complex junction units are additionally coated with mastic.
Step 23 On ribs and skates simple patterns are fixed mechanically, that is, using nails.
Step 24 The next tile elements overlap the nails of the previously laid pieces.
This is how you can quickly and beautifully decorate the roof of any small building. Bituminous shingles will provide good waterproofing of the roof and give it an original look.
Video - Installation of flexible roll roofing (tiles)
Roofing work, when the technology of laying soft tiles is used, requires the sequential performance of several tasks.
The materials used for work, including bitumen shingles, must comply with current standards and regulations.
Before performing roof installation work, it is necessary to prepare the surface on which they will then attach roofing material. This can be either a solid surface or made in the form of a lathing. A variety of materials can be used for such purposes. Wood is most often used.
To create a continuous deck on which flexible tiles will be mounted, you can use moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant particle board, tongue-and-groove or edged boards. When creating such a surface, it is necessary to leave a gap of three millimeters between the individual elements to compensate for the thermal expansion of the parts when the temperature changes. The edges of the plywood must be secured with self-tapping screws or rough nails.
In order to ensure long service wooden elements structures, they must be treated with antipyrines and antiseptics.
Both wind load and static load from fallen snow have a serious impact on roof elements, including soft tiles. When designing a roof, it is necessary to take into account its height, which should be determined depending on the strength and direction of the prevailing winds and the amount of snow falling. Based on this data, you need to use rafters of the required thickness and with the right step. This and also right choice The thickness of the material forming the surface for laying the roof will allow the roof to withstand the resulting loads. You can be guided by the data given in the table below.
Of great importance for the long-term operation of the roof, including when the technology of laying soft tiles is used, is ensuring temperature regime. This is especially important when there is a residential attic. Ventilation and ventilation of the roof serve such purposes. This avoids the appearance excess moisture and mold formation on roof elements. Natural ventilation is formed thanks to thoughtfully built-in elements:
- hole for air intake;
- channels or vents for its circulation;
- exhaust holes.
Often, the house design provides for covering the eaves overhangs with siding. In this case, it is necessary to additionally install ventilation grilles or so-called soffit strips. They ensure the flow of air into the vents. If the cladding is done with clapboard, then ventilation can be provided in accordance with the figure below.
The size of the air circulation channels is determined by the slope of the roof slopes. At an angle of inclination of more than 20 degrees, the vents must have a height of at least five centimeters. At an angle of inclination less than 20 degrees, this height should be eight centimeters.
Exhaust elements can be made in the upper part of the roof as follows:
- grilles on the exhaust openings on the side parts of the roof;
- ridge aerator;
- hood with access to the roof.
Installation of the lining layer
This is carried out to eliminate possible roof leaks.
According to current standards, if the roof slope is more than eighteen degrees (1:3), additional roll waterproofing material is located along the end and eaves edges of the roof, which are considered the places where moisture is most likely to penetrate, to a width of at least 40.0 cm from the edge. It would be best to bring this material to the surface of the facade. The roof ridge is also additionally covered with insulation of at least 25.0 cm on each side.
If the roof slope is from twelve to eighteen degrees, an additional layer under soft tiles is laid over the entire surface of the roof slope. This operation is performed from bottom to top, overlapping between layers. The rolled material is fastened with special galvanized nails with an enlarged head every 20.0 cm. The joints are additionally treated with bitumen mastic.
Before carrying out work on installing the base, if this is provided for in the project, it is necessary to attach hooks to the overhangs of the rafters for installing a suspended drainage system.
Laying end, cornice, parts and valleys
The roof overhangs must be reinforced with metal end and eaves strips on top of the lining layer. The planks are laid overlapping; for their fastening, roofing nails are used in increments of no more than 12 cm. Flexible self-adhesive tiles are laid end-to-end along the eaves on top of the metal plank.
Installation of tiles begins with the removal of the protective film, each tile is fastened with nails to the base. A special valley carpet is laid in the valleys. All rolled materials are additionally secured to the base with nails at the edges and treated with bitumen mastic.
Laying flexible tiles
If a dormer window is provided, then when installing flexible tiles, it is necessary to mark the slope to ensure correct joining of the shingles after the window.
To ensure that the color of the roof is uniform during installation, tiles from several packages are used simultaneously. Bituminous shingles are laid in rows, from the edge of the roof up to the ridge. Work begins from the bottom of the slope from the center of the cornice in the direction of the gables.
The initial row is installed so as to ensure a distance of 2.0-3.0 cm between the lower edge of the tile petals and the beginning of the ridge/eaves tiles. The outermost tiles, from which the installation of the second row begins, is cut so that the roof pattern is formed and the mechanical fasteners of the previous one are overlapped row. Cut off the tiles along the edge gable cornice and treated with bitumen glue to a width of ten centimeters.
Fastening tiles
The installation of flexible tiles begins by removing the protective film from the shingles, then each tile is secured to the base using nails, usually 4-5 pieces. The next layer breaks through the previous one too.
Subsequently, under the influence of solar heat, the tiles will stick together and stick to the sheathing.
Making connections
Where the roof slope meets the wall, a triangular-shaped lath is nailed and soft tiles are placed on it. A strip of valley carpet is placed on top and glued with bitumen mastic. The approach of the strip onto the wall should be at least 30.0 cm, and in areas with heavy snowfall the approach should be increased. The junction is covered with a metal apron on top and treated with bitumen mastic.
Sealing the outlets of chimney pipes is carried out in a similar way, see the figure below.
When the cross-section of a brick pipe is more than 0.5x0.5 m and its location is across the slope, it is advisable to install a groove to avoid the accumulation of snow behind the pipe.
To pass antennas, communication pipes through the roof and seal roof passages, special passage elements for bitumen shingles are used, which are secured with nails.
The rows of soft tiles laid on the so-called penetration are cut and then glued to the flange with bitumen mastic. Then the required roof outlet is mounted on the passage element.
Ridge tiles are used for this. It is divided into three parts according to the perforation on it, laid with an overlap of five cm. The ridge tile is located with the short side along the line of the slope.
The installation of soft tiles is carried out in warm, dry times.
Most people call roofing made from bituminous shingles “flexible tiles” or “soft roofing”, however correct name roofing material “asphalt shingles” - bitumen shingles. Like any roofing, this type of tile requires compliance with installation standards and technological rules. A wide range of this modern roofing material allows you to choose best option at a very reasonable price.
Preparation and construction of sheathing
The building materials used in asphalt shingle roofing must comply with regulated standards. The installation technology involves the construction of a high-quality base to which the roofing material will be attached.
The main requirements for the sheathing material are to use tongue-and-groove or clean-edged boards natural humidity, the width of which is about fifteen centimeters. All joints of mounted boards must be placed on supports.
The length of the sheathing board must cover at least two spans. In addition, it is necessary to leave a gap between adjacent boards, which is about five millimeters. This space allows the wood to expand unhindered during changes in temperature and humidity. The core of the wood should be located towards the outside of the structure.
If you intend to use moisture-resistant sheet plywood as a base, then you should pay attention to the dimensions of the spans between the rafters. The joints of the plywood sheets should be located on the rafters themselves. In addition, the thickness of the boards and plywood sheets used for sheathing depends on the distance between the rafters:
- with a rafter pitch of 60 cm, optimal thickness the boards are 2 cm and the thickness plywood sheet cannot be less than 1.2 cm;
- with a rafter pitch of 90 cm, the optimal thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the thickness of the plywood sheet cannot be less than 1.8 cm;
- with a rafter pitch of 120 cm, the optimal thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the thickness of the plywood sheet cannot be less than 2.1 cm.
Providing high-quality ventilation will prevent excess moisture and mold from accumulating on the wooden structure. For correct calculation size ventilation ducts it is necessary to take into account the slope angle. With a slope of more than twenty degrees, the height of the vents should be about five centimeters. With a slope of less than twenty degrees, vents are made with a height of eight centimeters.
The main exhaust elements should be presented:
- grilles made on the exhaust openings along the roof edges;
- ridge aerator;
- hood, with unhindered access to the surface of the bitumen roof.
A rigid and even base for the tile covering must be thoroughly impregnated with antifungal agents and protective fire-resistant compounds.
Laying the lining layer
A high-quality and well-made lining will protect the structure from the destructive effects of moisture in the event of sudden leaks of bitumen shingles.
Direction and technology of laying carpet under a flexible roof
Modern construction standards provide for the following indicators of the lining layer:
- a roof slope of ≥ 18 degrees assumes a 1: 3 ratio and a parallel arrangement of waterproofing relative to the end and eaves of the roofing edges;
- a roof slope of more than 12 but less than 18 degrees requires an additional underlay layer on the entire roof surface.
Overlaps should be taken into account and performed from bottom to top.
Installation of roof elements
All roof overhangs need to be reinforced with metal strips. They are provided on top of the lining at the ends and cornices. Installation is carried out using special roofing nails in increments of twelve centimeters.
At the next stage, special self-adhesive tiles are installed, from which the protective film is removed before installation. The tiles are glued end to end along the cornice and then fixed.
If there is a valley in the roof structure, it is necessary to lay a special carpet, which is secured on both sides. After fastening, the carpet is coated along the edges with bitumen mastic.
Do-it-yourself bitumen shingles installation technology
The immediate process should begin with mixing shingles, which are taken from several packages at once, which allows stabilization color scheme the entire roofing surface.
Endova
When laying bitumen shingles, you can use three methods of waterproofing the valley:
- the “open valley” method involves the use of rolled materials;
- the “crossed valley” or “braid” method involves the use of tile regular shingles;
- "sloping valley" or "undercut" method.
Instructions for laying shingles
It starts from the bottom of the roof, from the eaves center. The approximate installation start point is located in the middle of the ramp. Direct installation of bitumen shingles is carried out in rows in a vertical direction, moving from the central part to the gables.
The first row is laid with a gap of two or three centimeters, which should be located between the cornice tiles and the lower tile edge.
The edge of the second row of tiles, laid vertically, must be trimmed to form a beautiful pattern and disguise the fastenings of the first row. If necessary, all tiled elements must be cut strictly along the edge of the gable cornice and the cut points must be treated with bitumen glue. The processing width must be at least ten centimeters.
Additional fastening of the laid tile shingles is carried out using roofing nails, which should be driven in two adjacent rows. When hammering, the nail should secure the first and second rows at once. It takes about four to five nails to attach each shingle.. Solar heat allows the bitumen tiles to firmly adhere not only to each other, but also to be properly fixed to the sheathing.
Fastening tiles to a ridge
Most often, a special type of flexible tile is used to install a roofing ridge, which is called ridge-eaves. The individual elements of this tile have special perforations that divide it into three segments. Before installation, the film is removed from the adhesive base, and folding along the center line is used for installation.
When laying ridge tiles, the overlap method is used, which should be about five centimeters. The short part of the ridge tiles must be placed parallel to the slope lines. Roofing nails are used as fasteners. The standard consumption of hardware is about four fasteners per element: two hardware on one side and two on the other.
If shingles of ordinary tiles are used as ridge elements, then you need to carry out a few simple manipulations:
- shingles are cut into trapezoidal segments;
- a construction hairdryer melts the anti-adhesive film on the back side of the shingles;
- heated ridge elements are bent along the ridge.
With this method, one shingle can cover about 0.6 linear meters. roof ridge.
To install the aerator tape, special slots should be cut on the sides of the ridge part. At the next stage, grabbing the slots over the ridge, fastening should be done on both sides of the aerator tape. Next, the ridge tiles are installed in any convenient way.
For more information about installation technology, watch the video.
Cost of roofing work
Prices for roofing using bitumen shingles directly depend on several circumstances. The maximum value for pricing is the volume of work performed and related services:
- Turnkey installation of flexible bitumen shingles with the necessary components usually includes:
- performing ordinary coating;
- installation of end, cornice and ridge strips;
- arrangement of valley and junctions.
Such work will cost the consumer 370 rubles per sq. m. meter.
Additional installation of the base and hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof costs about 170 rubles per sq. m. meter, and installation of wall and ridge aerators - from 410 rubles per line. meter.
Moreover, as additional work Installation of strips, junctions, drainage systems and snow retainers can be carried out. The cost of such work depends on the volume of work and the cost of the material.
Let's sum it up
You should not neglect the installation of a lining carpet, which protects the roof structure in case of possible leaks.
Roof overhangs must be reinforced with metal strips of eaves and end type, which are mounted on a layer of underlay carpet.
At the junction of the roof slope and the walls, a triangular metal strip must be fixed, on top of which a covering of bitumen shingles is mounted. The next step is to lay the valley carpet. The adhesive for installing tile coverings is represented by bitumen mastic.
A roof covering made of bitumen shingles lasts a very long time, but the roof should be thoroughly cleaned and washed with antiseptic detergents every five years. In addition, it is necessary to regularly check the patency of the ventilation holes.
Roofing made of bitumen tiles is deservedly popular in most countries of the world, Russia is no exception. The buyer's choice is quite wide: products from large domestic manufacturers: Ruflex and TechnoNIKOL, roofing from a number of European, North American and South Korean companies. IN last years and Chinese manufacturers are showing an active interest in promoting their products on the Russian market.
Bituminous shingles are soft multilayer plates 3-5 mm thick. The base is fiberglass (in cheap versions the base is cellulose), impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition containing a mineral filler. The upper (outer) part of the tile is covered with colored stone chips (basalt or slate), it serves as protection and determines the appearance of the tile. The lower surface is partially covered with an adhesive layer and protected with film. In some versions, the lower part is sprinkled with fine silica sand, and glue is partially applied on top.
Sheets of tiles from different manufacturers may have different sizes, but the length of the plates is usually one meter. Width - 30-35 cm. In this case, half of the plate is covered by the overlying one, providing a double overlap of the material. The shape and colors of bitumen shingles can be very diverse. They often imitate natural, traditional coverings: wood shingles, slate roofing.
The Russian Shinglas tile has this shape. Meter length is typical for almost all European manufacturers
In the “table of ranks”, among other roofing materials, flexible bitumen shingles can be classified in the middle price category. Depending on the quality domestic market tiles cost between 200-500 rubles per m2. At a reasonable price, the material has quite attractive characteristics:
Bituminous shingles quite successfully imitate natural shingles, decorating this wooden frame. There is a ventilated ridge at the top of the roof (pictured top left)
- The service life of high-quality bitumen shingles is quite long - at least half a century. At the same time, the roof can also be used in the northern Russian regions. The maximum guarantee is provided by the manufacturer “Ruflex” from Nizhny Novgorod; all Finnish products are good. On the other hand, when buying cheap products made in Canada, the USA and China (at home, such roofing is sold from 3 USD), you should not expect the same durability from them.
- Since the sizes of the tiles are small (one row in height), cutting the material even on roofs of complex shapes is practically waste-free. When using molded additional elements (ridges, valleys), there are also no trimmings.
Flexible tiles are economical to cut for any roof shape
- Flexible tiles are quite easy to install. No need to have complex instrument and be highly qualified. It is enough to know the basic basics of carpentry, follow the manufacturer's recommendations and be careful.
- Bitumen-polymer reinforced material creates a continuous sealed roofing covering on the roof. Unlike sheet materials, there are no gaps. This is of greatest importance in the valley zone (gutter), where, in the presence of leaks, snow and ice can penetrate and gradually destroy this unit. This does not threaten bituminous shingles. The non-breathability of a flexible roof requires mandatory ventilation of the under-roof space.
- Bitumen shingles, being a flexible material, make it possible to install roofing on roofs of rather complex shapes and curved surfaces.
Asphalt shingles are great for pretty complex roofs. Using different shaped plates on the same roof (right) allows you to create an interesting pattern
- Flexible tiles are elastic and can withstand slight deformations of the base without compromising the integrity of the surface.
- Bituminous shingles do not form condensation, best dampen the sound of rain and are non-electrically conductive (in most cases there is no need for lightning protection). The surface sprinkled with stone chips is completely non-slip. You can safely walk on the roof; there is no need for snow guards.
- Flexible roofing has a low weight - 7-9 kg, which allows you to save on the cross-section of the elements of the rafter system. On the other hand, quite high requirements are placed on the foundation for the roof: it must be strong, continuous and even.
- Bitumen roofing is quite attractive; a wide variety of shades and tile configurations allows you to diversify architectural solutions houses with pitched roofs.
Preparing the base
To lay flexible tiles, a continuous base is arranged. You can use sheet materials: OSB, moisture-resistant plywood. A good option is a solid flooring made of smooth, calibrated edged (not tongue-and-groove) boards, between which gaps of approximately 4 mm should be left. It is imperative to leave gaps, otherwise, when humidity increases, the wood may swell and the flooring will “rise.” It is also necessary to leave a gap of 3 mm between sheet materials. The best way fasteners - using self-tapping screws, you can use rough nails.
This is how sheet materials need to be secured. The long side must be parallel to the eaves overhang, and the sheets must be staggered. If boards are used, their joints must also be distributed over different rafters
OSB and plywood must have a minimum thickness corresponding to the pitch of the rafters:
- With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the sheet material should be 12 mm, the boards 20 mm.
- Step 75 cm - plywood or OSB 15 mm, board 22 mm.
- Step 90 cm - plywood or OSB 18 mm, board 25 mm.
- Pitch 120 cm - 22 mm and 30 mm respectively.
- Pitch 150 mm - 28 mm sheet and 40 mm board.
The given figures are valid for the Moscow region, with large snow loads the thickness of the base material will have to be increased.
In this case, the solid flooring is made of moisture-resistant oriented strand boards (OSB). They are located across the slope and staggered.
It will be better if the rafter pitch does not exceed a meter. If sheet materials are used, the pitch of the rafters should be made a multiple of the size. This is 62.5 cm for OSB with a sheet size of 250 cm and 75 cm for plywood with a size of 150 cm, variations are possible. If the distance between the rafters is large, you will either have to increase the thickness of the sheathing materials (this is not cheap) or install additional load-bearing sheathing underneath.
Roof design option. In this case, a counter-batten and an additional sheathing are located on top of the rafter beams, supporting the base for the tiles made of OSB sheets
Rafter system It is recommended to pre-treat the materials for the foundation with a fire-retardant compound.
Ventilation device
Bitumen shingles are a sealed, windproof and airtight roofing material. Therefore, the installation of a roof made of bitumen tiles requires the mandatory organization of ventilation of the under-roof space. If the attic is ventilated, it is enough to do ventilation holes in the gables. With a combined roof, a counter batten 35-40 mm thick is attached to the rafters, and the sheathing is mounted on it. Air channels are formed between the individual corner rails. At the bottom the air enters the filing, at the top it exits through special devices: ventilated ridge or aerators. It is not necessary, but it is advisable to lay a waterproofing membrane between the rafter beam and the counter-batten, since it costs little.
Ventilation schemes for the under-roof space. For a simple roof, the most effective and inexpensive option is a ridge aerator.
Subtleties of installation technology
The technology for installing bitumen shingles for different brands is approximately the same, but there are minor differences. The recommendations given are valid for most products. However, after purchasing the material, it is necessary to obtain from the seller instructions for installing this particular brand of tile and follow it exactly:
- Storm system can be hung on two types of hooks. The first is attached to the sheathing and does not affect the roof in any way. The second one is mounted on the edge of the roof and must be secured first. It is necessary to calculate the required slopes and place the hooks at the required marks. If necessary, embed them into the base material.
Hooks drainage system option A (left) is attached to the beginning roofing works
- The lining layer is made of rolled bitumen or bitumen-polymer material. Many manufacturers offer several options. For small roof slopes (on average 10-18°), the entire roof area is covered with lining material. The rolls are laid with an overlap (at least 8 cm on the long side and 15 cm on the short side), the joints are coated with bitumen mastic. The lining material is secured with galvanized roofing nails at intervals of 20 cm.
Scheme of continuous laying of underlay carpet. When laying horizontally, start from the bottom, nails are placed along the edge of the canvas in increments of 20 cm
Additional strips of lining material are glued to the valleys and inclined ribs before the general gluing device is applied.
Valleys and ribs must have an additional lining layer: it is installed at the very beginning
For slopes greater than 18°, a continuous underlayment layer is not necessary. It is enough to roll out the rolls along the contour of the roof (40 cm or more from the edge), in places of fractures (ribs, valleys) and junctions. However, if the “lining” is continuous and with a greater slope, it will definitely not be worse.
- Metal cornice strips are installed along the gables and cornices on top of the lining layer; they will be covered with tiles on top. The planks must overlap at the joint, the spacing of roofing nails should not exceed 12 cm.
The overlap of the cornice strip is approximately 5 cm, the nails should be placed staggered
If there is a gable (possibly sloping) on the roof of a complex shape, on which it is necessary to organize water drainage, preventing it from flowing out, it is necessary to form a small side under the eaves strip.
- The next step is to glue and nail the valley roll carpet.
- Now you can begin installing the cornice strip. It is glued and nailed along the entire lower overhang.
- To accurately glue the main roof, the roof surface will have to be marked. Chalk is used more often. Mark the upper edges of the plates with the step specified in the instructions for the purchased tiles.
Valley knot. It can be seen that there is a lining layer at the bottom, a valley strip on top, a cornice strip is glued onto it, and finally the main roof. Valleys, all fractures and contours are glued with mastic
- We begin laying row strips of bitumen shingles. The first step is to mix the tiles. The fact is that it may have a different shade in different packages; this is allowed by all manufacturers. To avoid visible differences in color, tiles must be taken alternately from different packs. Moreover, the packages are selected randomly, and not in order.
We lay the tiles from bottom to top. The roof slope in this case is higher than 18°, there is no need for a continuous lining
We start the first row from the bottom, retreating 1-2 cm from the edge. We remove the film. As a rule, it is on the bottom and top, on the adhesive layer.
It is better to start installation from the middle, closing the joint of the cornice strip. We step back a little from the edge. Before installation, remove the protective film where necessary, otherwise the plates will not stick together
For fixation, galvanized nails with a thin, wide head are used. They are hammered in such a way that the caps completely overlap the overlying sheets. Location of fasteners for various types tiles are different.
Don’t forget to glue the metal strips and all the edges of the roof planes with mastic
- Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the design of the valley. There are two options: open and braided. With the chute open ordinary tiles Do not bring the valley to a fracture by 7-8 cm on each side. Attention ! Some “masters” prefer to cut the tiles directly on the valley, already glued. This should not be done under any circumstances. Together with top layer the knife will also damage the valley carpet. This seemingly small negligence is the cause of the lion's share of leaking roofs.
“Open” valley knot. Don't forget to apply glue. In order not to damage the underlying layers, the tiles should be cut not on the roof, but on an OSB sheet or board before installation
A braided gutter is safer than an open gutter. At first glance, its structure is more complicated, because the stripes need to be braided alternately, like braids. But experienced experts say that with the right approach, this option is simpler, since there is less marking and cutting required.
The braided valley is laid like a braid: the plates alternately pass through the groove. The overlap on the opposite slope should not be less than 30 cm, and the nails should not be located closer than 15 cm from the valley fracture
- The roof is crowned with a ridge. In most models, this is a strip divided by perforation into separate elements. The ridge parts are separated, bent in half, the protective film is removed from the bottom of the adhesive layer and fastened with four nails so that they are hidden under the next sheet. Overlap - 5 cm.
Horizontal ridge and inclined rib hip roof are issued in the same way
- The junctions of chimneys and vertical walls are pre-pasted with a special carpet (often a lining). The carpet is placed 30 cm onto the roof, with a 20 cm overlap. It is recommended to install a metal apron on top.
The metal apron is secured with dowels, the joint with the pipe is sealed silicone sealant
- Typical roof passage elements (ventilation, antennas) have a special design and complete seals.
The passage seals are secured with nails, and ordinary tiles are glued on top.
- Don't forget to provide ventilation outlets. The most inexpensive and effective option is a ventilated ridge. Standard aerators can be used.
Design of a ridge aerator. You can use ready-made plastic. It is easy to install, but will cost more
So, now we see that installing a roof made of bitumen shingles is a relatively simple task, however, it requires care and careful adherence to the manufacturer’s instructions, which you need to have on hand during work. Tools you will need: a hammer, a tape measure, a marking cord, metal scissors, a sharp shoe knife. Makes work easier and allows you to use screws at the base preparation stage cordless screwdriver. You also need to keep in mind how to mark the roof: chalk for bitumen, pencil for wood.
Bituminous shingles (also called flexible shingles) in Lately is becoming more and more popular. This is explained by its high technical and operational qualities; bitumen shingles are quite light, durable, and thanks to their flexibility they can easily be used on a roof of any configuration. Its advantages also include the fact that the minimum service life is at least 30-35 years, and some manufacturers guarantee up to half a century of operation of bituminous shingles.
From the point of view of operation, it is in no way inferior to metal tiles; thanks to its “softness” it has good soundproofing characteristics. The ease of installation also speaks in favor of choosing bitumen shingles; you can lay bitumen shingles with your own hands. Thanks to the variety of colors you can choose suitable option for any roof.
What are bituminous shingles made of?
As a rule, shingles are based on durable fiberglass, with layers of improved bitumen on either side of it. A layer of powder made of mineral material is placed on the front surface of the bitumen shingles (it serves rather an aesthetic role), and microscopic particles of mineral material reduce the noise from rain.
On the underside of the sheets of flexible tiles there is a self-adhesive layer and a protective film, which is removed immediately before laying the sheet.
What tools and materials will be needed to install bitumen shingles?
In order to lay bitumen shingles with your own hands you will need:
- sealant;
- special bitumen-based mastic;
- underlay carpet;
Instead of a special underlay waterproofing carpet, you can use ordinary roofing felt.
- the tiles themselves in the required quantity;
- galvanized roofing nails with a wide head;
- ventilation elements (usually purchased together with tiles);
- ridge-eaves tiles;
- shaped elements for strengthening the cornice and end part of the roof;
- pass-through elements;
- hammer;
- metal scissors;
- a small trowel for applying bitumen mastic;
- tile cutting knife
When calculating the required number of tiles, you need to remember that the consumption indicated on the pack corresponds to the area of the roof slope at an angle of 45°.
Technology for laying bitumen shingles
The main disadvantage of flexible tiles is the increased requirement for the evenness of the base. Due to the fact that bitumen shingles are a rather soft and relatively thin material, even a small unevenness will stand out against the background of the roof, and a leak may also form in this place. Therefore, to construct a base for flexible tiles, it is recommended to use only dried edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.
Builders most often give preference to oriented strand boards.
After installing a level base, you can proceed directly to laying bitumen shingles.
- On preparatory stage underlayment needs to be laid. Depending on the steepness of the slope, it is installed either on the entire roof, or only in the most critical places from the point of view of water resistance - on the ridges, overhangs and valleys. If the steepness of the roof slope exceeds 18°, then you can do without a continuous underlayment.
Laying flexible tiles directly on concrete is prohibited.
It is desirable that the waterproofing carpet be laid in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom of the slope, overlapping the strips waterproofing material– 10 – 15 cm. It can also be installed in the longitudinal direction, but from the point of view of waterproofing this option is worse. Particular attention should be paid to the valley carpet; it is advisable to make it from a single piece of waterproofing material, without joints.
- The eaves and end parts of the roof should be reinforced with special shaped elements (metal strips). They must be installed with an overlap of up to 5 cm. The planks are attached to the base with nails, the distance between them is up to 12 cm.
Even before laying asphalt shingles, you need to think about fixing the gutter. Sometimes for this purpose a wooden plank is nailed to which the gutter is attached.
- After strengthening the eaves and the front part of the roof, they begin to install the tiles. It is better to mix sheets from several packs first. The fact is that even tiles from the same batch may differ in color; mixing the sheets will make this difference in shades unnoticeable.
Do-it-yourself installation of bituminous shingles begins with the installation of eaves-ridge tiles on the eaves overhang. It can be purchased separately or you can use ordinary flexible tiles for this, having previously cut off the petals from it.
- Then they begin laying the main part of the tiles. As a rule, the hollows are completely lined with tiles before the main part is laid. You can do this in parallel with laying tiles on the slopes, but in this case, in the hollow, the tiles should be 2-3 rows ahead of the tiles on the slope. Each subsequent sheet in the hollow is glued to the previous one (the overlap is 10 cm).
Along the edge of the roof, the tiles are carefully coated with mastic (a strip 10 cm wide) and glued to the base. This allows you to protect the roof from slanting rain. It is recommended to start laying shingles from the middle or lower corner of the roof slope. Starting from the 3-4th row, you need to pay attention to maintaining the geometric pattern; to control the correct installation of the roof, first mark it or use a thread mooring.
- To install pipes, it is recommended to use special passage elements; they can be purchased along with the tiles. In this case, the passage element is nailed to the roof with galvanized nails, the area around it is coated with mastic, a corresponding cut is made in the tile and it is glued around the pipe.
- Separately, it is worth considering the connection of tiles to brick pipes or vertical walls. In this case, a wooden triangular strip is installed between the wall and the base, to which flexible tiles are attached). To ensure waterproofing, a waterproofing layer is attached to the top of the brick wall (pipe). roll material using a metal strip (the space between the strip and brick wall filled with sealant).
Usually the overlap should be at least 30 cm, but in cold climates - at least 70 cm.
- The technology for laying bitumen shingles also includes the installation of a ridge aerator. First, you need to trim the ridge, install the aerator itself on the resulting device, and glue bitumen shingles on top of it.
