Sawmill: application, design options, drawings, making a homemade one. Do-it-yourself tire sawmill Simple homemade mini sawmills

Wood sawing machine (saw bench) – rather complex special production equipment that requires strict adherence to safety measures during operation. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce the cost of wood construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader understand how to make a sawmill with your own hands, choose a suitable design for yourself and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.

When is it needed?

Interest in the “do-it-yourself sawmill” actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, at a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In the Russian Federation the situation is significantly different. First, price scissors wild log and timber in Russia have already been “divorced” a lot. Second, primary wood processing is a particularly dangerous job, just like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian legislation on labor protection in this regard is draconian.

The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. Store sawdust (for example, for fuel for a stove) long burning) is impossible - they begin to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. It’s easier with them “over the hill” - local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with pick-up. The Russian Federation is by no means poor in timber and Russian manufacturers slab/sheet wood materials“left” parties do not take sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill yourself in the Russian Federation may make sense:

An indispensable condition is if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Renting a timber truck for Russian distances (meaning idle mileage from the garage) for Russian roads in the outback, per ton-kilometer of cargo is significantly more expensive than in Europe.
If the indispensable condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction in the event of a chronic shortage Money. Then, independent sawing of round timber into timber will reduce the construction estimate by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the costs of manufacturing a sawmill. Resp. The construction period will also lengthen, but when there is no money, there is nothing to choose. With sawdust - do what you want, they will turn out once.
The next option is cutting wild logs to order at home, i.e. a foreman on call to the owner's yard. In the Russian Federation, this is probably best option: you can bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to the place of work in a passenger car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is the owner’s problem, and a small one, because... They are also thrown out to him on the site once. They don’t give the master a headache, i.e. you can register, for example. Individual entrepreneur as a carpenter and work “in white”.

Design Features

The main feature of the sawmill is that the cut in it is always longitudinal. It is well known how difficult it is to cut wood along the grain. Unlike circular saw the sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, and in general does not deal with wild logs correct form. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working element (the saw itself) moves along the log being cut; Otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the cut. Large timber processing enterprises also have sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is stationary, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; The centering of the line is ensured by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.

Note: The sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from the butt to the top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and/or break.

What to cut with?

How affordable, durable, convenient and safe to use will it be? homemade sawmill, is mainly determined by the design of its working body. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its operating mode (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of replacing it. And finally, the energy supply at the place of work is important: what is more accessible there – electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.

In sawmills with small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6-hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:

Reciprocating saw bar (old).
Saw blade (item 1 in the figure below).
Saw band (item 2).
Saw chain (item 3).
Chain saw bar continuous action(new, item 4).
Household chainsaw (item 5).

How to drink?

The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and the cut will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical cutting, firstly, reduces material waste, because It is enough to level the log under it only in the horizontal plane. When cutting horizontally, a log needs to be leveled both horizontally and vertically to minimize waste, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hunch”). Secondly, when cutting vertically, the cut (the part of the log being sawed off) does not put pressure on the working part and clings to it much less. Therefore, to saw the same timber vertically, the drive power required is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:

Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill

But, firstly, the risk of injury with vertical sawmills is much higher than with horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of logs under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and ensuring the maximum permissible sawing accuracy according to specifications of up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a homemade vertical sawmill is extremely difficult or even impossible. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal cut.

Structural composition of the sawmill

We’ll talk a little further about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill. First you need to understand the design sawing machine generally. It consists of:

working body - saw (see above and below);
drive to it from the motor;
saw carriage;
rail track (guide) for it;
carriage (cradle) for logs;
grip holders for him;
a frame that combines all this into a single device and ensures its overall strength and reliability.

Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.

Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Secondly, the minimum welding work during assembly. This important point: conducts metal structures during welding; Because of this, it is very problematic to specify the cutting accuracy of a welded sawmill. Thirdly, the carriage rail (item 13 on the right) is made of angle steel, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the support shoes of the carriage are pairs of ordinary rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; trembling of the carriage is the main cause of sawing defects. Another consequence is the carriage feed mechanism without a gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above for horizontal cutting; disc, with a continuous tire and a chainsaw also for a vertical one.

The disadvantage of this machine is the comb log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, as they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will be no thinner than 60 mm. Additionally, material waste will increase because it is impossible to align the log vertically in this machine. However, it is not so difficult to get rid of these shortcomings by using a separate carriage for logs of a simple design, see below.

The operation of the cutting thickness setting unit (in the inset) requires some explanation, which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. The nuts 5 in the insert are welded to the support plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (item 1 in the inset and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (item 20 on the right). There is no need to loosen the locknuts (item 2 in the inset): they will loosen on their own. When the saw is installed in a new position below the previous one, the locknuts are tightened by hand.

Saw like a saw – longitudinal

A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in Fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill is from a flywheel to a crank mechanism through a slider - a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or Babbitt liners (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In former times, craftsmen used carpenter's bow saw blades instead of a saw bar; They also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the tension of the blade during the reverse stroke is ensured by a fairly strong return spring.

The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. low material waste. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:

Low productivity: if the feed of the carriage during the reverse stroke of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the tooth height, i.e. 4 mm, the saw gets stuck.
It is impossible to saw a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the blade immediately gets stuck and wrinkles.
Damp, unseasoned wood does not take, it also immediately gets stuck and breaks.
Very often gets stuck on knots and strands.
If there is insufficient tension on the reverse stroke, the cut sharply worsens - it becomes wide and torn.
The same applies to an excessively strong return spring.

In professional forestry, reciprocating saw bars fell out of use by the end of the 19th century, and among amateurs, with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.

Disk

A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit into a sawmill: it is made of steel of poorer quality than required in this case. When sawing raw logs, the disk material from the circular saw will soon release itself due to heating, the disk will quickly fail or be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade For a sawmill, the pleasure is not cheap. In some sources you can find advice: they say, cut out a round piece from galvanized (!) or duralumin (!!!), attach 2-4 teeth to it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.

Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking because... allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from timber in one pass; For this purpose, angle and multi-disc saw carriages are used (inset at the top left of the figure). However, an industrial circular sawmill is a complex structure, see Fig., which does not work on the “do-it-yourself” topic.

If an amateur gets a sawmill blade (diameter from 600 mm, tooth profile the same as that of a rip saw, see above), he needs to keep in mind the following advantages and disadvantages:

Long resource – up to 5000 hours or more; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
Required for sharpening sharpening machine, there is no way to do it manually.
The cut is not very even, 3-5 mm wide, i.e. material waste up to 10-12% by volume. A “clean cut” disc, which produces a waste of 2-5%, costs 3-10 times more than a simple one.
You can cut without any technical breaks for 6 hours. shift; Maximum performance in this class of devices.
High energy consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in a cut with the side surface of a large area. To obtain the required drive power in kW, multiply the diameter of the log in dm by 1.7.
The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed have virtually no effect on the productivity of the sawmill.
A disk with a diameter of 800 mm can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
Larger diameter discs in amateur designs are very dangerous, because... require a high-precision drive to avoid runout.
The drive is only electric, because The disk should rotate absolutely smoothly at idle. In the tree he’s already got more than enough tugs.

In general, a DIY circular sawmill is definitely not an option. Let's look at the drawings in Fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is the carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: a 1-2 mm misalignment of the rollers when moving the carriage is inevitable. The consequence is a disk misalignment of 6 mm or more. Right there he gets stuck in a tree. Considering the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.

Next, the lower edge of the disk must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish cutting it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first top. What's next? In theory, you need several grooves in the carriage, depending on the thickness of the resulting boards. After each cut, either the carriage is raised, moved forward and lowered back to the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Can you imagine such a design made at home? No need, your head will hurt a lot.

What if it’s simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, it's not easy. It must be laid again so that the next cut runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there’s not a stick, there’s a huge, heavy block of wood.

Well, let’s say we have a strong family/staff, we don’t care about moving logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, this is a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the carriage, or tip over when 2-3 blocks are sawed off (unedged boards of the entire timber for cutting into measuring boards). The holder is located in the very middle of the log. You can't cut on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most evenly drying core block will most likely go to waste, because Due to the repositioning of the log, the thickness will be unacceptably converging on a wedge.

Note: an amateur single-disc sawmill for horizontal sawing is no more convenient or more productive than a vertical one, but its design is much more complex and dangerous.

So, making a circular sawmill with your own hands is an option in one and only case: if you have come up with an improvement to it that is a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all other cases, it’s not necessary.

Band saw

The band sawmill is one of the inventions that produce significant results with trivial technical solutions. The reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of reverse motion. This means that you need to get rid of it in order to get a continuous saw blade. As a result operational properties band sawmill differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines for similar purposes:

Productivity – up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
Saws both seasoned and raw freshly chopped round timber.
The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of a rip saw blade, and the material waste is just as low.
The cutting accuracy is as high as that of a circular sawmill, provided that the saw blade tension is uniform and optimal.
It is impossible to saw logs immediately into pieces of measured materials.
Energy consumption per 1 cubic meter m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a circular sawmill.
To avoid self-release of the tape material, technical breaks in work are necessary: after each wash for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) – 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work – half an hour to an hour; from 6 hour shift to next. the same - at least 2 hours.
The full resource of the working body (belt) is 100-500 hours; re-sharpening is not possible.
The cost of the tape per hour of work is much less than that of a simple saw blade.
The cost of the entire machine is several times less than a disk machine with an angular carriage per cut.
The drive is electric, because The idle speed of the belt needs to be as high as for a disk.

Due to these features band sawmill Finds the widest application in small sawmills. According to most advertisements: “We accept round logs/logs for sawing,” it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).

The simplest way to do rip saw– roll the fabric into a ring and place it on the pulleys, pos. 1 on next Fig.. To prevent injury from the non-working branch of the blade, a protective cover is put on the working part. Making a sawmill with a belt without it (item 2) is extremely dangerous!

The second stumbling block for DIYers here is the belt pulleys. The branded ones have a special slightly convex profile of the side surface (working surface). The belt slides off the cylindrical pulley; flanges (edges) do not help. Some craftsmen tilt the entire sawing unit upward by 1-3 degrees. However, as soon as the tension of the tape weakens (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without protective casing this is even more dangerous than sliding down.

Smarter craftsmen have found a way out: they put the tape on the wheels of cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in Fig. and rice at first. Their profile almost exactly matches the required one, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least enough to cut a whole log. In addition, if thin enough quality materials, then you can get by with a simple friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. The manufacture of the machine is also simplified, because auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:

Video: DIY band sawmill

Transfer to saw

When sawing raw, untreated logs and knotty/twisty and sticky fine-grained wood, the transmission from the drive to the belt (the main one) is also a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristics of the belt are too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. Gear gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will get stuck in the tree and become crushed, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.

The best final drive for a band sawmill is a chain drive. Idling It provides a belt almost as smooth as a belt. And when sawing “bad” wood, the chain’s own inertia pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the inhomogeneities of the wood are successfully overcome. This is the same property chain transmission used, for example in screw wood splitters.

Chain instead of tape

Working body chain sawmill– a chain with saw teeth stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, service life and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length before wear is lower. The saw chain can be re-sharpened (you need a sharpening machine!) and does not require any technical breaks during the shift. The drive can be energy-independent from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.

Disadvantages: firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against wood, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs sanding (that’s why a surface grinder is not often built into it) or will be sold as a second grade. Consequence: increased material waste, up to 15% by volume. Third, in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (cutting fluid, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. The fourth is a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the chain properties: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: re-sharpening and/or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fiddling with them - mom, don’t worry!

Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used primarily. for primary sawing of timber at stock exchanges and harvesting sites. In the latter case decisive role The energy independence of a machine with an internal combustion engine plays a role: it is brought in on a truck or tractor, the wood is unraveled onto blocks and taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, wood losses are often more than compensated by savings on round timber transportation by timber trucks. But this approach, of course, does not benefit the forest as a living community. Both from excessive cutting and from clogging with sawdust.

New tire

Continuous saw bar is cantilever chain Saw, i.e. does not require tension at the end farthest from the drive; it also does not require coolant supply. Do you recognize? This is the “blade” of the chainsaw. Application modern materials and continuous improvement of the design made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable in all respects for domestic use. A sawmill made from a chainsaw at home is also much easier to make than any other; drawings of a frame with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its performance qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as for a chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cutting is carried out simply by rearranging the carriage. But please note:

The service life of the saw motor will be reduced by approx. doubled.
Full canvas resource best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and cheap ones - 10-12 hours.
Every 2-3 hours you will need to re-sharpen, and every 4-6 hours you will need to replace the teeth (if possible for this sample).
The total operating time during the day is 2-3 hours.
Maintenance break until next shift – from 12 hours.
The saw must be designed for both transverse and longitudinal cuts.

The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. Models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example) have both cuts provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal one is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in a sawmill, because... You cannot stop the carriage while cutting is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. “Alternative” manufacturers often have the opposite: the default saw is only a cross-cut saw. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.

Special continuous saw bars are produced for sawmills. Due to the refusal of a transverse cut, their offset (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - same as saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of homemade ones, the Logosol type tire sawmill, center-right in the figure, is of much greater interest. Spring edge supports keep the log from rolling away. The elevators are adjusted separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.

The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 30s, the export of unprocessed wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which had forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber, with standards equal to the size of a log. In the EU, the main domestic logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are plenty of smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working with an acute shortage of raw materials. Given the prices for timber there, calculating the income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing it into boards in one’s yard gave results that made one’s eyes pop. Plus - there is no headache with disposal of sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling it. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with a sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with a clamp. This requires more labor and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Hobbyists have certainly developed many modifications successful development Byström. Their drawings of Logosols and components for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. How to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:

Video: DIY mobile-stationary Logosol “Terya”

The appearance of Logosol is the direct reason for the development of saw bars for sawmills. There are models available for sale that are compatible with household chainsaws: remove the standard blade, install the tire. Thus, the issue with the cost and labor intensity of the drive was resolved: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.

Mini

A further development of Logosol’s idea is a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; With careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and drive, only the support platform and handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.

The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from an angle, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones are the same as the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is necessary, place a channel (bottom right), because in this case, a flat lateral supporting surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing the log on the carriage, leveling it and holding it.

Carriage, grips, clamps

There remains such a problem as a frame with additional components. The one on pos. 1 pic. the left is far from optimal. For one-time sawing for self-construction, it is too complex and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200 mm channel, it will not sag after the first or second dozen logs, which means the machine is completely unsuitable. A stationary sawmill should be made with separate concrete rail tracks and a carriage for logs (item 2; in this case we will not focus on safety precautions - the topic of this article is different).

The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking they use hydraulic jacks in hooks. The log is hung on the hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching it, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and hydraulics, based on sensor signals, immediately levels the timber.

In amateur conditions, the first is not feasible; the second is in no way feasible. In many homemade sawmills, log grippers are made as shown in Fig. below. The log is hung on automatic jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along a guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are tapped with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.

Firstly, such fastening is simply dangerous: vibrations during sawing can cause the grips to become wedged, and this is an accident most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the wood by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over before finishing it halfway. As a result, the cutting quality and material waste will be the same as on a vertical single-disc sawmill, see above.

Carriage

Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage suitable, incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on the road:

materials – ordinary rolled metal without preliminary screening for evenness;
for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
the influence of the quality of welding and warping of the metal from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
prepared base (support) surface – not required;
weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup truck and on the top trunk of a car;
the maximum length of the processed log is 6 m;
its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
leveling and hanging the log - in any way independent of the carriage, see below;
the influence of the flatness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
the reliability of holding the most clumsy, unrooted forest is absolute;
the ability to dismantle the sawn blocks into edged measuring boards/beams without readjusting the sawmill - a must;
security – sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of untrained outsiders is easily controlled.

Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. minis that satisfy the specified conditions are shown in Fig. (left/center – top view). Material – channel 120x60, rod 14 and 16 mm.

Exactly under the M14 holes in the upper flange of the channel, D15 holes are drilled in the lower flange for the passage of the shanks of the hook holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded feet. The plan configuration and location of the grip holders make it possible to reliably hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage like this:

the log is hung and leveled on a pair of auto jacks. An option is to use one jack at a time: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and lift the other one;
the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with the widened part towards the butt and aligned along the axis of the timber. If the log was hung on a hoist, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
the holder hooks are turned out until they touch the log so that their points look inward exactly at each other. A slip by one turn (by M14 thread pitch) does not affect the cutting accuracy;
the log is lowered onto the hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and a support, then first release the jack, and then knock out the support with one sharp blow;
to securely hold a thin light log, you can sit on it and jump;
saw the log using any sawmill using horizontal cuts. The thickness of the last slab in the vast majority will not exceed 40 mm.

Clamps

Full functionality of this carriage will be ensured by 2-5 clamps (3 are almost always enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from Fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the standard holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! Before dissolving into boards/beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on a gun carriage and cut into boards/beams using horizontal cuts.

Bottom line

Let’s take a look, as they say, at a grandma: what kind of sawmill to make with your own hands and in what cases does it make sense.

If you see a range of clients for sawing and/or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - a band on motor-wheels. It will last at least until you have enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in its entirety and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is a side hustle for you, the Logosol sawmill will perform better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy on the farm anyway.

When carrying out construction or carpentry work, lumber is always needed. These can be boards for various purposes, timber for foundations and floors, parts of building structures.

To have sufficient stock necessary materials, you will have to frequently saw untreated logs. Of course, you can already buy finished products, but financial costs will increase several times.

A factory-made sawmill is also not cheap. However, you can make a fully functional sawmill with your own hands at home, and the costs will be significantly lower.

Varieties

Depending on the design of the working part, a homemade sawmill is made of three types:

disc sawmill;
tape;
tire

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Disk installation

Among homemade devices Disc sawmills are the most common type. They have gained wide popularity due to their versatility and ease of assembly.

Most suitable for one-time construction work or for small businesses that do not involve large volumes of production. The basis of this design is a circular saw mounted on an electric motor or on a spindle.

In most cases, a so-called “circular” is made - solid foundation in the form on which the engine and the shaft with the circular saw are mounted.

The base is made of wooden or metal parts, which are fixed in a criss-cross position and secured with a board of a suitable size. Metal plates are fastened on top of the board using bolts.

In the resulting plate it is necessary to leave a slot for the saw and holes for mounting the engine. The holes must be additionally countersunk and then secured with screws.

The saw must be installed strictly in the middle of the resulting structure. The top plate is connected to the base with screws, and the disk insert is fixed in the hole between the plates. The last thing to attach is the thrust bar.

note: when assembling the sawmill, close attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening of all structural elements. An insecure saw blade poses a serious threat to human health and life.

Using a homemade circular sawmill you can make beams, slats different sizes and veneer. The rotation speed of the saw is sufficient to obtain high-quality products with smooth edges and cuts.

Belt type

Installations using band saws are used in the production of lumber on an industrial scale.

Private production in most cases is equipped with homemade sawmills, made on the basis of drawings of factory units. The main advantage of such devices is the ability to quickly cut large logs weighing up to three hundred kilograms.

Manufacturing a band sawmill requires special training and sufficient availability large quantity various building materials:

pipes of various sizes and diameters;
metal corners for mounting the rail system;
channel;
pulleys;
profile pipes for sleepers.

In addition, you will need tools for working with metal - a welding machine, an electric drill, a grinder and a set of fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws).

Work on the manufacture of the device begins with the installation of the stationary part - the frame. The shape of this design resembles the letter “P”; the material is two channels or angles 50X100 mm.

The standard length of the channel is 8 - 9 meters, the height is at least 14 cm. After installing the frame, holes are drilled in it, the gaps between which must be at least one meter.

Afterwards it is necessary to tighten the channels with pipes 25 cm long, fastening is done using bolts the right size and hairpins. After this, the racks on which the sawmill will be fixed are mounted. To increase stability, the structure is additionally strengthened with the required number of braces.

It is important to know: the proportions of all parts must match; for a sawmill 9 meters long, a saw measuring at least a meter is required.

A saw is attached to the trolley, and a steering wheel is installed on the side to control the operation of the unit. The clamps are made of pipes with a diameter of no more than 40 mm; movable hoses are installed inside. Clamps made of metal corners are installed on top of the pipes.

Lastly, the saw blade and motor are installed. It is best to build the structure directly at the site of future work, since the total weight of the band sawmill is very large.

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Tire (logosol)

A homemade unit is fundamentally different from other types of sawmills in its design.

The main task is longitudinal sawing of logs, production of high-quality veneer and slats. Numerous videos on the Internet provide comprehensive information about all stages of installation of a tire sawmill.

This type of sawmill is used in small industries to produce mini workpieces of non-standard shape and size. In homemade units, a chainsaw blade of a suitable size is used as the working part.

The design consists of a profile, working height which is just over a meter. The chainsaw is moved using a trolley.

The exact height is calculated taking into account the height of the worker in order to avoid prolonged stay in an uncomfortable position. A log is placed on the main profile, the saw moves and cuts according to preset parameters.

The main condition necessary for high-quality operation of such devices is sufficient weight and rigidity of the main profile, as well as the presence required quantity supports To obtain an even cutting line, you must have at least four stable wheels and a manual drive.

It is optimal to use a well crank with a drive wheel. To adjust the thickness of the product, rigid fixation jacks are installed.

Making your own sawmill of any type is a labor-intensive and complex process. Whether the waste of time and money is advisable is up to everyone to decide for themselves. In any case, when installing a unit of any type, one must not forget about safety precautions.

Injuries often occur while working with wood, and homemade equipment, assembled insufficiently well, poses a danger to the owner.

How to make a cheap sawmill with your own hands, see the following video:

Since ancient times, wood has been the most in demand building material. And if earlier rather primitive tools were used for its processing, today the latest modern technology is used. For example, in order to cut wood and process it to the required size, builders resort to the help of a sawmill. Unfortunately, such a tool is not cheap and therefore not available to everyone. Home craftsmen found a way out of this situation by making a sawmill from a chainsaw with their own hands. Tips for its design, drawings and video instructions can be found on numerous Internet sites, as well as in our article.

Types and features of chainsaw sawmills

Construction markets offer a large selection of sawmills, which are based on a chainsaw. Fixed in a trolley with rollers, the unit can be manually moved along a pre-laid rail track. A powerful chainsaw or band saw can be used to harvest wood.

For living conditions Large sawmills are most often not required, so the optimal solution would be to make a functional homemade mini-machine. Such a unit will have small sizes, and therefore can be easily moved if necessary.

More often as the main element similar device chainsaw protrudes, which can be purchased at a specialized store or use a Ural brand unit.

Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw: video instructions and drawings

Having the drawings available and having studied the video instructions, it is quite simple to independently make a structure for processing logs, boards and slats. Before starting work, you must select appropriate place. You can install a sawmill using a chainsaw in an old barn, garage, hangar, or even just under a shed. If the room for the unit is closed, then you should take care of the hood.

Chainsaw sawmill - option No. 1

To make the structure, in addition to a chainsaw, you will need:

two channels 8 meters long and 140-180 millimeters high;
two rails;
corners 50x100 mm and 40x40 mm;
segments water pipe 25 cm as ties;
steel plate 4-6 cm thick and 60 cm long;
movable hoses;
pipes with a diameter of 35-40 mm.

Making your own sawmill should start with assembling the base from rails and corners 50x100 mm turned upside down. They must be installed strictly parallel to the floor, so you need to use a building level.

Along the length of the base, according to the drawing, holes are drilled in increments of 1-1.5 meters and with a diameter of 14-16 mm.
Then, according to the number of holes, ties are taken and connected with bolts.
Stands are made from metal squares and the base is placed on them. The distance between the outer posts and the base should be about 100 cm.
To make the structure more rigid, braces between the posts can be welded.

After the base is completed and installed, you need to make a movable cart with your own hands. For this a corner is welded to the bottom of the steel plate 40x40 mm and the product is placed on rollers or bearings. Two corners are welded on top of the plate, to which a chainsaw is attached.

On last stage To make a homemade sawmill, it is necessary to make a structure for fixing the logs. To do this, movable hoses and pipes should be positioned at the required height and secured.

The first version of a homemade sawmill using a chainsaw is ready. There is another way to make a wood processing unit with your own hands. The tools and drawing for it will need the same, however, the design itself is more refined.

Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw - option No. 2

The structure consists of four main components:

Driven saws.
A mechanism for regulating the thickness of the board being produced.
A mechanism for moving the saw part of the structure.
Devices for fixing logs.

Since a chainsaw with a working engine and cutting teeth is already available, you will only need to make both mechanisms and a device for fixing logs with your own hands.

Mechanism for adjusting the thickness of the boards.

Logs are sawed by raising or lowering the base, which must be welded to the plate using four nuts with bent edges. At the top of this device lock nuts must be installed, which need to be tightened after the unit is adjusted to the desired thickness of the material being processed.

Mechanism for moving the saw.

The saw in the structure moves along the frame along guide angles, the distance between which should be 50 cm. To the racks it is necessary weld two rollers or bearings by 20 mm. The lower roller should keep the sawmill from lifting, and the upper one should rest on the guide angle.

Device for fixing logs.

On such a unit logs are secured using two ridges– stationary and moving by means of a screw. After the material to be processed has been installed, the moving comb is secured with screws in a stationary state. Now you can safely begin to operate a homemade sawmill made from a chainsaw.

A sawmill is an impressively sized The unit is quite dangerous to operate, therefore, before you begin assembling it, you should carefully consider the place where it will be used. It should be well lit, ventilated and have free space. The nearby warehouse for finished boards will greatly facilitate the process of processing the material.

For a sawmill with an electric motor, you should very carefully install the necessary switches and automatic machines, as well as install the wiring.

Since the most dangerous elements of the unit are all its cutting and moving parts, when assembling the structure they should be given special attention.

Before starting to operate the assembled equipment, it is necessary to check all fastenings and components, as well as the stability of the structure.

Operating instructions for a homemade chainsaw sawmill

After the structure has been assembled and tested, it must be tested in wood. To do this you need:

Jerky movements when cutting should not be made, as this can lead to the tire stopping.

It should be kept in mind that It is necessary to work in personal protective equipment, which include mittens, a robe, oversleeves and glasses. In addition, you should worry about protection for the moving frame in advance. It can be made from acrylic or transparent plastic. Such guards can protect against saw chain and chips.

A sawmill assembled with your own hands from a chainsaw will allow you to produce high-quality lumber with a cut of the correct shape. Therefore, if you often have to work with lumber, then such homemade equipment, made on the basis of the attached drawings and videos, will become an indispensable thing on the farm.

Allows significant savings if there is a need for constant processing of wood during the construction of houses, on the farm, or if you have your own small production.

Of course, you don’t have to rack your brains and buy a tool, but making it yourself, as mentioned above, will cost much less.

The band sawmill is better known to many as a band saw. Depending on the scope of work, the type of tool is selected.

The sawmill can be belt type, chain or disk type. We are considering tape type manufacturing.

The principle of operation of a band sawmill is very easy to explain using the example of spools of thread.

The whole design resembles the rotation of two spools, between which a thread is stretched. This thread plays the role of a saw, and the distance between the coils is the maximum size of the log.

What a band sawmill allows you to do:

Prepare logs, that is, adjust them to the same size and shape;
Sawing logs according to a given pattern after setting up the equipment;
After sawing, small defects remain that cannot be eliminated using homemade sawmills, so further processing of the wood is done manually.

The band sawmill works as follows: the log is fixed on the platform and remains motionless, the mobile cart begins its movement and cuts the tree, the saw is in a horizontal position.

In order to ultimately get a board of the desired size, it is necessary to initially set the parameters by the operator. The saw acts as a saw blade, which must be well tensioned.

How a homemade sawmill works, see the video.

Before work, you need to prepare the equipment: to do this, sharpen the saw and set the teeth.

What materials are needed to create a sawmill?

It should be noted that materials are selected depending on whether the drawings are made or not, because it is correct drawing is the basis of a quality product, thanks to which the calculation of materials is made:

Pulleys can be taken new or old in good condition;
Pipes of different diameters;
Rails - you can make it yourself from corners. It is better to place the corners edge up, this is necessary in order to extend the “life” of the wheels;
Profile pipes for creating sleepers;
Channel.

In addition to materials, you will need the following tools:

welding machine;
milling machine;
Bulgarian;
drill, it is more convenient to use an electric one;
hammer;
pliers;
sets of screwdrivers and wrenches;
clamp;
bolts, nuts and other fasteners;
rulers, tape measure, squares, etc.;
hacksaw.

Sawmill design

The organization of work is based on the block principle.

It involves various variations of the device, starting from the basic one, where the saw is fed manually, to the most complex units, when the saw is fed automatically, the cutting thickness is set, the electronic system is programmed, etc.

Components of the structure:

to organize the movement of the saw blade, a frame with two guides is used;
screw mechanism for lifting the belt;
hydraulic or spring unit for tensioning the tape;
driving and driven wheels (pulleys);
wheel guard casing;
tape holder;
V-belt transmission;
electric motor;
rail for carrying out the movement of the band saw;
eccentric clamps for holding the block (log);
emphasis;
tank with liquid for wetting.

To create a smooth, reliable product, it is necessary to make drawings according to which the entire structure will be assembled.

At the same time, the drawing must be studied and understood, otherwise you can simply lose not only time, but also money.

First, the bed (fixed part) of the machine is made, which has a U-shape.

It can be made from two channels, which can be replaced with two rails (in the absence of the first materials). If you use rails, they need to be installed so that the sole is on top.

The bed can also be made from corners (50x100 mm).

The height of the channel should be at least 14 cm, the length should be about 8 meters.

Holes need to be drilled along the entire length of the materials in increments of 1-1.5 m. After this, using pipes whose length is 25 cm, the channels need to be pulled together.

Threaded rods or bolts are used.

In this case, the structure is further strengthened with the help of braces, since it is necessary to achieve rigidity of the product. See drawing.
Next, a mobile cart is assembled, the dimensions of which are set depending on the width of the frame, while the cart on both sides should be slightly larger (about 8 cm) than the frame.

The length of the mobile structure should be approximately 60 cm. Most often, the trolley is made of a steel plate, the thickness of which is 46 mm.

A special steering wheel is installed on the side of the structure to provide control of the trolley.

The guides on the sides must be equipped with sprockets to which the control wheel is connected.

The entire structure moves using a tensioned chain, which prevents free movement of the steering wheel.

To prevent the log from jumping out during operation of the sawmill, it is necessary to make clamps that are made from pipes.

It is more convenient to use pipes whose internal diameter does not exceed 35-40 mm, since movable rods will be installed inside.

Clamps must be placed on top of the pipes. The metal corner is the material from which the clamps are constructed. Clamping cam mechanisms can also be installed.

If the clamping elements are less than 15 mm, then there can be no talk about the reliability of the design.

If you work on the engine at the end of the work, you must purchase it in advance so that the proportions of the entire structure are correct.

For the example under consideration (bed length is 8 m), the engine power must be at least 10 kW, and the saw diameter must not be less than 1 m.

Otherwise, the dimensions of the entire structure must be revised to smaller ones.

To make a homemade sawmill work more efficiently, you should pay attention to some recommendations:

The structure must be stable and strong, since you have to work with logs of different weights and sizes;
Equipment assembly work must be carried out directly at the site where it is planned to be placed. This is due to the massiveness and heavy weight of the structure;
It is necessary to constantly monitor the operation of the equipment and adjust the settings, since the design is done by hand, without the use of precise programs and computerization;
Homemade sawmills are “scattered” with shavings, so you need to either build additional structures or clean up after the work is completed;
A wide band cut affects the generation of a large amount of waste;
To provide efficient work for a mobile trolley, it is necessary to use gaskets and plates, and the gaskets must be 0.5 mm thicker than the channel;
The electric motor can be easily replaced gasoline engine. This option will be simpler, because you can use a chainsaw, or rather its engine. The chainsaw blade will serve as a tape. How to make a gasoline band sawmill, see the video;
All fastening elements must be securely fixed to ensure safe work the entire structure;
To ensure efficient operation, the saw must be sharpened and the teeth set apart.

Disc sawmill

Let's look at a simpler type of homemade sawmill.

In order to make a circular sawmill, you will need to find circular saw. An electric motor will be used as a motor.

First you need to make a welded frame on which you will need to place metal plate with slot for disk. From below to the plate you need to attach the plate shaft on bearings and pulleys.

Wheel electric motor connects to the saw with a belt.

To ensure good belt tension, it is necessary to use the weight of the engine itself, and you can also use weights. The circular sawmill is ready.

Good day! Let's not talk for long and get straight to the point. IN this material You are presented with a guide with the help of which you can make a band sawmill with your own hands. So, let's start with the description.

Pulleys that are used in this device, previously owned a combine harvester similar to the Neva, they have a diameter of 300-320 mm. The pulleys are ground down a little, this is done in order to achieve a slight protrusion of the belt. In the future, the belts can be removed completely, this will allow the device to work more quietly and productively.

Turning work is involved here to a minimum. This became possible due to the fact that a half-inch pipe and a pipe that is placed on top of it with a gap of 1-2 mm are used as guides.

First, let's look at the "rails"

For rails, we use a 5 cm corner, which is installed so that the side is on top; most often, it is installed so that the edge of the corner is at the top. This makes it possible for the wheel not to wear out.

We use them as sleepers profile pipe 2.5 by 2.5 cm. Also welded like sleepers, between profile tubes, and a half-inch pipe, which is equipped with claw fasteners. The movement and tilting of the fasteners is carried out in a free mode; the tree is clamped by hitting the clamp with a hammer, which, due to this, jams.

Protrusion of profile tubes beyond the rails is also implemented. These protrusions are equipped with adjusting bolts (M14 by 100 mm).

The profile tubes have “bridges” on top of which the flame is laid. The distance from one bridge to another is 500 mm (for short workpieces).

The pulleys with their bodies (hubs from the Moskvich car) are welded onto the tubes, and the entire structure moves along horizontal guide tubes (half-inch tubes) and is fixed with bolts.

The right (driven) pulley is tensioned automatically using a spring (taken from the KaSiki shock absorber).
The position of the left (leading) is fixed, but there is the possibility of movement when the size in the band saw changes.

A do-it-yourself band sawmill cannot be made without rollers. When developing rollers, it is worth remembering that they must be hardened. The entire sawmill can be done in a garage; the only problem may be with the turning work.

Based on considerations of simplicity, we perform a “roller assembly” using a set of bearings, a pair of identical ones and a slightly larger one at the back.

The “Rollers” are installed on a machined shaft so that it is possible to install washers between the bearings (if the width of the saw changes). The shaft is installed in the same pair of pipes described earlier; the shaft and half-inch are welded so that the axes are offset (shown in blue).

The entire structure is attached on top of the guide tubes in such a way that the unit can be adjusted vertically and moved from side to side with the possibility of fixing (to adjust the opening in accordance with the diameter of the log). We attach a dropper for coolant to the roller, which is installed where the driven pulley is. To make the frame, a channel (100) is used, the height of which is 150 cm. The frame is strengthened using gussets. The frame may “play” a little, it’s not scary. Backlash is present even in factory-made sawmills.

The “Cutting block” is moved over the channels using pin screws. To ensure that the installation of the “cutting block” is rigid, we use bolts with locknuts. Details of the lifting mechanism in the images.