Homemade chain sawmill drawings. DIY chain sawmill. Carriage, grips, clamps

Repair or construction of a private house, construction of a bathhouse or processing of felled trees are all activities that can be carried out by a mini sawmill.

But will you really have to spend a lot of money to purchase such a unit? Many knowledgeable craftsmen who offer drawings of chain sawmills online believe that no. And if you are willing to spend a little time and effort, you can try making a chain sawmill with your own hands.

What will it take? Any chain sawmill " homemade» consists of parts such as a chainsaw, a steel frame and rail guides.
To make a chain sawmill, a metal frame should be attached to the saw bar. The space between the tire and the frame will be equal to the thickness of the resulting board. Therefore, you should decide in advance what it will be and prepare a drawing of a home chain sawmill.
By the way, if you increase the distance between the tire and the frame, you can get a homemade tire sawmill for sawing timber.
Selecting a chainsaw for a mini chain sawmill is another important step. Such a unit must be powerful, economical and have good chain sharpening.
Will a DIY chain sawmill work efficiently?
Many people are interested in the question of whether homemade chain sawmills will be as reliable as industrially manufactured mini chain sawmills. It is impossible to answer this unequivocally, because everything depends on how well the work is carried out by the home craftsman.
And here, durable rail guides are one of the most important requirements, without which it is impossible to create a reliable chain sawmill. A well-thought-out mechanism for fastening logs is also very important.
Safety rules for those who decide to make a chain sawmill with their own hands
There is no doubt that a DIY chain sawmill is quite possible. However, it is important not only to assemble such a device, but also to ensure the safety of its use. Perhaps this is the most important thing in which factory-made chain sawmills are superior to similar home-made designs.
However, subject to a number of rules, home-assembled mini chain sawmills can also be quite reliable and productive.
The most important thing is not to use low-quality metal or used bearings when assembling a homemade chain sawmill. It is also advisable to install a new chainsaw with sufficient power.
Don’t forget that competently drawing up a detailed and thoughtful drawing of a chain sawmill is already half of your success.

Safety at work.

The most popular lumber in construction is produced on sawmills of various capacities. With high equipment productivity, sawmills are sources of increased industrial injuries. Many of us have heard real stories on the topic of “I gape, but my finger is no longer on my hand.” And there are practically no exaggerations in such stories.

The only reliable way to reduce the number of injuries and accidents when operating such equipment is strict compliance by all employees with industrial safety regulations. The general list of dangerous and harmful factors in such production is quite extensive. It includes both dangers from injury from cutting tools, mechanical injuries from moving and rotating parts of machines and mechanisms, as well as back injuries common to many industries during high physical exertion, damage to the organs of vision and breathing from dust and shavings released during wood processing, falling from a height of various loads and workpieces, injuries when lifting heavy objects.

Even before starting work, all employees must study the principles of operation and operating instructions for existing equipment, the rules and procedures for storing blanks and finished products, the principles of troubleshooting and troubleshooting technology, fire safety rules at work, internal labor regulations and the work organization system.

You must immediately take into account that workers should not find and fix problems with electrical installations and equipment on their own. To ensure occupational safety, any sawmill must provide reverse feed due to its design. For sawmills with continuous supply of material, they are equipped with remote control on/off supply.

When carrying out work on four-roll sawmill frames, logs no shorter than 3 m must be sawed. If it is necessary to process shorter logs, the sawmill must be equipped with additional mechanisms. And to work with ridges shorter than 1.5 m, special eight-roller frames are used. Processing of beams and logs shorter than 0.8 m on sawmill frames is not allowed. Operational safety is additionally ensured by the brake of the sawmill, which allows for recoilless braking.

Review of some models

ELECTRIC BUS SAW MACHINE is designed for longitudinal and diagonal high-quality sawing of wood of any species of a given thickness. The mini-sawmill can be used to produce veneer, carriage, edged, unedged boards, thin gauges, timber of regular, complex, triangular and multi-faceted profile sections.

Installation and installation of the mini-sawmill is carried out independently, consultations on installation and maintenance are free. In some cases, anchors are placed under the rail track of a tire sawmill (if there is no level ground or the installation is stationary), it is advisable to “shoot” the rail track with a level, the tire on the carriage is aligned in a plane close to the ideal horizontal relative to the rail track using a precise measuring instrument (not a level), then carefully attaches what you want to saw.

Tire sawmill petrol 6 hp
The petrol sawmill is designed for longitudinal sawing of wood of any species of a given thickness. The mini-sawmill can be used to produce veneer, carriage, edged, unedged boards, thin gauges, regular, complex, triangular and multi-faceted profile sections.
	High quality - sawing wood, accuracy, compactness, low price, simplicity of design, reliability (there is not a single gearbox), light weight, ease of transportation (on a car trailer), installation (on a flat area), does not give a "wave, bristles", economical in operation, environmentally friendly and not noisy view sawmills, safety, durability. Installation and installation are carried out independently, consultations on installation and maintenance are free. In some cases, anchors are placed under the rail track (if there is no level ground or the installation is stationary), it is advisable to “shoot” the rail track with a level, the tire on the carriage is aligned in a plane close to the ideal horizontal relative to the rail track using an accurate measuring tool (not a level), then carefully attached what you want to saw.

Tire petrol sawmill- with Honda engine 13 hp.
Petrol TIRE SAW MACHINE with 13 hp engine. has greater power, which increases productivity (6-7 m3/shift) and eliminates chain sticking. And it is possible without loss of traction to install a longer tire.
	The engine life of the Honda engine is 1.5 times higher, and it is characterized by silent operation. Installation of the tire sawmill is carried out independently. Consultations on installation and maintenance are free. In some cases, anchors are placed under the rail track of the sawmill (if there is no level ground or the installation is stationary), it is advisable to check the rail track with a level, the tire on the carriage is aligned in a plane close to the ideal horizontal relative to the rail track using a precise measuring tool, then what you want to saw is attached.

Petrol mini sawmill PTSM3B (based on the Stihl MS 660 high-power chainsaw)
The petrol TIRE SAW MACHINE PTSM3B (Stihl MS 660) is used for diagonal and longitudinal sawing of any wood (including hard) species into products of a given thickness. The mini-sawmill is used for the production of unedged and edged boards, thin gauges, regular and complex timber, veneer, carriages, etc.
	Petrol tire sawmill PTSM3B produced on the basis Stihl chainsaws MS 660 (power 7 hp), it is distinguished by high power and, consequently, productivity (5-6 m3/shift) and eliminates chain jamming. It is also possible to install a longer bar without losing traction when sawing. This mini sawmill has gained recognition due to its versatility. First, using a professional Stihl MS660 chainsaw and a cross-cutting bar, you can prepare the lumber, and then cut the logs into boards by installing the chainsaw on a mini sawmill and changing the bar and chain to a longitudinal one. The chainsaw is easily installed using a special bracket, connected to the gas lever and you can cut logs into boards.
Thus, you have an excellent professional chainsaw for felling forests and a device in the form of a mini sawmill that allows you to cut a log lengthwise and obtain the final forest product (board, timber, etc.). Installation of the tire sawmill is carried out independently. Consultations on installation and maintenance are provided free of charge. In some cases, anchors are installed under the rail track of the sawmill (if there is no level ground or the installation is stationary), it is advisable to check the rail track with a level, the tire on the carriage is aligned in a plane as close as possible to the ideal horizontal relative to the rail track using a precise measuring instrument.

To calculate shipping costs:

The volume of the electric mini-sawmill is 1.5 m3 per package, weight 150 kg.
The volume of the petrol mini-sawmill is 1.8 m3 per package, weight 150 kg.

Types of sawmills and other woodworking machines.

IN last years There has been a tendency to use natural materials in construction, furniture production, and in many other areas. environmental materials. These include, first of all, wood, which has become the main material in the construction of modern country houses and cottages. Significant increase in volumes suburban construction was the main factor in increasing demand not only for wood.

Woodworking equipment is designed to carry out a full technological cycle for wood processing: from sawing, drying wood to assembling and finishing finished products. Types of general-purpose woodworking equipment include woodworking machines and sawmills.

Woodworking machines are equipment designed to give wood a given size and shape. Woodworking machines can process materials, semi-finished products (boards, beams), parts of various wooden structures or ready-made products (parquet, doors, furniture). Woodworking machines are used to carry out several technological procedures.

According to the method of wood processing, they are distinguished:
band saws
jointers
Thicknessers
milling machines
CNC milling machines
tenoning
drilling
slotting
turning
grinding machines, etc.

Band saws and circular saw woodworking machines are used for cutting wood materials, blanks, as well as panel materials - plywood or particle boards. To create one or two base surfaces in one pass, jointing woodworking machines are designed, which can be either manual or mechanized. Thicknesser woodworking machines are used to process workpieces to size for a given thickness, and to form tenons and lugs on adjacent parts when connecting them at an angle, woodworking equipment such as tenon cutting machines is used.

For milling straight and curved surfaces, as well as for profiling moldings and processing edges, woodworking milling machines with a lower or upper spindle are used. Drilling through/non-through holes occurs on special drilling and slotting machines, and woodworking lathes are used to obtain cylindrical, conical, and complex shapes of workpieces.

In construction wooden houses, cottages, the use of rounded logs has become widespread. Rounding machines are a special type of woodworking equipment designed to perform all the necessary operations for the manufacture of a log house. On rounding machines there is a procedure for round processing of logs (rounding), making a longitudinal laying groove, compensating cut, and also obtaining a crown cup - an element of transverse fastening of cylindrical parts.

Rounding machines are distinguished by their optimal dimensions and energy intensity. They don't require preliminary preparation logs for rounding. Thanks to the use of a rounding machine, the maximum possible smooth surface workpieces, since it is possible to adjust the speed of movement of the carriage and the speed of rotation of the log. Rounding machines are used to produce cut and tapered logs, as well as logs with variable diameters.

Rounding machines have a lot of useful properties:
optimal dimensions;
low energy intensity;
does not require preliminary preparation of logs for rounding.

Thanks to the use of a rounding machine, the most smooth surface of the workpiece is obtained, since it is possible to adjust the speed of movement of the carriage and the speed of rotation of the log. Rounding machines are used to produce cut and tapered logs, as well as logs with variable diameters.

Round timber sawing machines are divided into three main types:
frame sawmill,
circular saw or circular sawmill,
band sawmill.

The most widespread are band sawmills, which have found their application in wood processing and repair and construction industries. Band sawmills are used for longitudinal sawing of various types of wood into boards and beams. There are three types of band sawmill: vertical, horizontal and corner. To choose a sawmill that is right for your needs, it will be useful to learn about what each of these types is intended for, what its advantages and disadvantages are over others.

Using vertical sawmills, logs are sawn into beams and boards of the required thickness. This is very convenient, however, such a machine is not enough to carry out complex processing of beams, for example, rounding. When purchasing a sawmill of this type, you should pay attention to where the machine control panel is located. The number of gripping stands is also important.

Thanks to horizontal sawmills, edged or unedged boards and beams are produced. For this purpose, round timber is used for processing. Horizontal sawmills can be of two models - with mechanical supply of material to the machine, or wood supply is carried out manually. If you decide to buy just such a sawmill, then an important parameter that needs to be taken into account is the maximum diameter of the log that can be worked with on the machine. It is also worth paying attention to the way in which the logs are fed to the machine.

Band sawmill

And finally, the third model of a band sawmill is a machine located at a certain angle. Using this type of sawmill, you can divide boards and wooden panels into blanks, which are later used somewhere else. Therefore, when purchasing such a sawmill, you need to pay attention to such parameters as the maximum height of the workpiece, the angle of inclination, as well as the dimensions of the working surface.

The cutting tool for band saws is a 40 mm wide band saw, which is driven by an electric motor. Band sawmills are distinguished by small cuts or high output of lumber on edged boards, reaching up to 70%. Other advantages of a band sawmill include quick adjustment of the cut for each specific board, the ability to saw large-diameter logs, and the cleanliness of the cut surface. However, it must be taken into account that when working with wood coniferous species Resin adheres to the cutting edges of the saw and to the moving parts of the sawmill, which significantly complicates the operation of the band sawmill.

Disc sawmills or “lumber machine”. We are talking about the same woodworking equipment. The functionality of the circular sawmill allows you to cut logs with high dimensional accuracy. This is an important advantage.

There are several principles of operation of a circular sawmill:
A stationary log is sawed with one or more saws located on the same plane;
A stationary log is sawed with one rotary saw or two saws located 90 degrees relative to each other;
The log moves and is sawed by two saws located 90 degrees relative to each other; The log moves and is sawed by one or more saws located on the same plane;

Band sawmills allow you to saw round wood longitudinally into boards, beams, sleepers, and veneer. To prevent changes in the dimensions of workpieces during their subsequent mechanical processing or in finished products, a procedure such as wood drying is necessary. Drying of wood must be carried out before starting work on milling, sanding, gluing and applying a protective and decorative coating to wooden workpieces. Removing excess moisture from wood significantly improves its performance characteristics and extends its service life.

Special drying chambers are designed for drying different types of wood. For a long time, wood was dried in air, the so-called natural method. Now, with the advent of wood drying kilns, this form of drying is no longer necessary.

The main types of wood drying chambers include:
aerodynamic drying chambers;
Microwave drying chambers;
convective drying chambers;
condensation drying chambers for wood.

All of the listed types of wood drying chambers have their advantages and disadvantages, but the most common type of this equipment is convective wood drying chambers.

The technology is that the heat in drying chambers transmitted by air passing through a heat exchanger: the air passes through the board bags and ensures an efficient drying process. For one or another stage of wood drying, you can change the parameters of the air flow: temperature, speed, direction, as well as humidify the air or, conversely, reduce the humidity in the chamber.

Comparison

When choosing the best option sawmill equipment, you should first of all pay attention to the most important advantage of band saws and container multi-saws compared to multi-saw disk machines; this advantage lies in the low cutting height. You may ask, is this advantage really that important?

The size of the cut of a disk machine, as a rule, ranges from 5 to 6.2 mm. The tire sawmill produces an even larger cut. For example, you can take a cutting map of a thin log with a diameter of 180 mm and a material with a cross-section of 124x35, it is obvious that the total cutting area will be 4377 mm2. If the cross-section of the log is 90x90, then 17.2% of the wood will go to sawdust. If you process at least 900 m3 monthly, then you should not pay attention to such wood loss, because the volumes processed compensate for the loss. If production volumes are small, then it makes sense to use technologies that do not differ high performance, however, allowing you to saw wood with minimal losses. Thus, for small production volumes, it is more advisable to use band saws or container multi-saw machines, but not busbar sawmills.

If you use a band saw, the cut size will be 2.2-2.5 mm. With a log with a diameter of 180 mm to obtain lumber with a section of 124x35, the cut area will be 1765 mm2. Thus, only 6.9% of the wood will go into sawdust. A comparison of this figure and the cross-section of the log (3.14x90x90=25447 mm2) allows us to conclude that 1765/25447x100%=6.9% of the wood is sawdust. If 600 m3 of roundwood is processed within a month, then the volume of wood that goes into sawdust is 41 m3 of wood.

Let's compare. If you process 600 cubic meters of roundwood per month, then 41 cubic meters of it will be used for sawdust. If this amount of wood is processed on multi-saw disc machines, then the sawdust will amount to 100 cubic meters of wood. Thus, when using band saw machines, the material savings will be 59 cubic meters or 10% of the total amount of wood. Tire sawmills, which produce a wide cut, are used, as a rule, by private traders or small farms to process minimal volumes, for which the yield of wood does not matter.

Is it worth constructing a tire sawmill yourself?

The processing technology is as follows: the log is fixedly fixed, while its cutting is performed using a moving saw (chain saw). The part is fixed on the carriage.

Do-it-yourself tire sawmill manufacturing technology

A frame is made from 2 steel channels, having a length of 8 meters and a height of 0.14 meters. In addition, you can use rails or metal corners. The blanks required are those that have a perfectly straight shape.

Holes are made along the entire length of the channels (diameter 14-16 millimeters) at a distance of up to 1.5 meters.

According to the number of holes, special ties are made from sections of water pipe. The parts are secured using threaded rods or bolts.

The components of the structure of a do-it-yourself bus sawmill, which have already been prepared, are assembled together and installed on racks. The number of racks depends on the length of the bed. The outer posts must be placed at a distance of up to 1 meter from the end of the guides.

To give rigidity to the structure, it is rational to fix the braces.

Gaskets and clamping plates for the trolley are selected. The elements must ensure free movement of the mechanism. At the same time, an extremely minimal clearance is required. The gaskets are tightened using bolts.

Transverse play can be eliminated by attaching a stop angle to the base of the trolley. The trolley can be placed on bearings or rollers.

A chain is used to move a cart with a saw and motor. The chain should be as tensioned as possible on the tire sawmill with your own hands.

The steering wheel is mounted on one of the bushings of the side sprockets, which are located at the edges of the guides.

A fixing device for a log is being manufactured. Pipes with a diameter of 3-4 centimeters are taken. Movable rods are inserted into them, which enter the stopper at the desired height with an M8 screw.

Pressing parts with a length of at least 1.5 cm and cam clamps are fixed on top of the rods.

An electric motor and a saw with a diameter of 1 meter are installed.

Do-it-yourself bus sawmill, on which beams and boards are made different sizes, slats, ready!

Prices / Order

Firms

Do you know which area of ​​business has always been considered one of the most profitable? The correct answer is a business related to the production and sale of building materials. Today, many entrepreneurs who are just about to open their own business are thinking about what type of activity to choose so that the project begins to generate a stable income with minimal financial costs. Of course, in the construction industry there are quite a lot of options for making money, but among the most promising and highly profitable, it is worth highlighting your own sawmill.

business sawmill

Based on the foregoing, it becomes quite clear why many businessmen are interested in how to open a sawmill in order to ensure sufficient profitability. There is no need to worry about this, since the profitability in this area is consistently high. If you want to start your own sawmill, then it will be enough for you to have a starting capital of at least 20,000 US dollars.

Also, to open a sawmill, you will need to find an area larger than 30 m² and approve all permits with the relevant authorities, without which it will be impossible to cut down forest in the selected area.

As for the organization of the production process, it must include equipping the territory with all the required elements. These elements include the following:

convenient access roads;
location of the canopy and sawmill in the correct place allocated for them;
construction of warehouses for storing raw materials and finished products (warehouses must be built based on the following calculation: each of them must store half of the monthly reserve).
Among other things, one cannot help but dwell on the choice of the sawmill itself. It is worth noting that it is most advisable to purchase a sawmill model that was produced not by a domestic, but by a foreign manufacturer. If we compare the cost of a previously used Finnish sawmill with a new domestic sawmill, it is almost the same, but its quality is much better. On average, you will have to pay about $3,500 for a sawmill. If the goal is to organize a small sawmill, then it makes sense to use such types of machines as mini sawmills, frame saws or band sawmills. They will be able to fully service large volumes of production.

Those who have been in this business for a long time recommend that beginners opt for a band sawmill. This type of sawmills not only low level consumption electrical energy, but also a low level of waste generated during the production of lumber (no more than 17%). With a power of 50 kW, the band sawmill pays for itself in less than five months of use.

business sawmill

After the sawmill is installed on your site, you will definitely need to organize a special canopy over it. It serves to protect the sawmill from rain, snow, etc. The approximate square footage of the room allocated for the sawmill is at least 10×20 m, and the height is from 5 m.

Monthly costs, including taxes, electricity, raw materials and the salaries of two employees, are close to $16,000.

Now let's calculate the volume of production required to make a profit: 1 m³ of raw logs will cost $80, and the price of finished products(eurolining, boards) above $180/m³, therefore, your sawmill must produce at least 700 m³ of products monthly.
Thanks to the crisis situation that is currently developing all over the world, the sawmill has turned into an investment project that anyone can enter. Now the idea of ​​opening your own sawmill is very promising and in demand, because profitability of this production can reach 100-150%.

What keys do we use?: chain sawmill homemade chain sawmill mini chain sawmill chain sawmill + do it yourself

A DIY chain sawmill in most versions is a regular chainsaw, rigidly mounted on a metal structure for smooth movement along the material being cut. With this device you can cut long logs into pieces of the required length with good quality surfaces The disadvantage of all chain sawmills is the large cutting width; the percentage of waste is higher compared to other types of devices.

A chain sawmill, when using an electric motor, must be equipped with the necessary equipment for starting and protection.

Craftsmen have developed several versions of devices, sometimes copying industrial ones, sometimes completely unique. Materials and parts for many devices were used from completely unexpected old mechanisms - bicycles, cars.

Manufacturing a stationary sawmill will cost much less than a purchased option, but requires certain experience and skills. You must be able to work with metal, producing high-precision parts, and be good at electric welding. Some parts need to be made on a lathe.

Therefore, before starting a project, it is advisable to carefully weigh all the pros and cons.

Selection and preparation of a site for a sawmill

To install a sawmill, a free space of approximately 3 x 6 m is required. When choosing, you need to take into account the possibility of supplying/removing material and storage space. If possible, the device should be located indoors or at least under a canopy. The roof will protect the equipment from weather conditions and allow you to work in the rain.

The surface must be flat, without significant slopes. It is necessary to provide for water drainage during rainy weather and snow melting so that puddles do not form. It is advisable to start manufacturing the sawmill at the installation site. The best option would be a concrete surface.

To move the saw you need to prepare two rails or channels. The main requirement for them is perfect evenness without the slightest bends. The length will depend on the expected length of the logs for processing, usually from 4 to 8 m. The workpieces must be fastened together, precisely maintaining the distance between them. The fastening can be made permanent, using electric welding, or dismountable, using bolts. For connection, use an old water pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm or other material available. The fastenings should be located in increments of 1-1.5 m. It is important that both workpieces are in the same plane, without distortion, otherwise the cart with the saw will change the angle of inclination relative to the log when moving, and the cutting surface will be uneven - “helicopter-like”. After installing the travel paths, you need to install racks to secure the log. They can be made from any metal profile of sufficient rigidity to withstand the weight and shock of the logs. The racks must be positioned as follows:

• the first one along the saw path should be at a short distance from the edge of the trolley with the saw installed in the initial position;
• the distance from the first to the last rack should be less than the length of the processed logs by approximately 0.5 m;
• the intermediate posts must be distributed evenly between them.

The racks must be installed on the surface in one plane with sufficient strength, so as not to sink under the weight of the log. The plane of their installation must be parallel to the plane of the travel paths.

Log clamps must be installed on the posts. Their design can be any of the available materials. The basic rule is that the clamps should not interfere with the passage of the saw and should be able to fix logs within a certain thickness range.

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Making a moving trolley

You can make a chain sawmill with your own hands in two versions, depending on the position of the saw:

• the tire is located in a horizontal position;
• vertical tire arrangement.

In the first case, the cut will take place along a horizontal plane, the sawn material will be on top of the log. In the second, the cut is vertical and the sawn-off part will be on the side.

To make a trolley, you can use a square profile pipe, angle or other material with the required strength.

The dimensions of the cart will depend on the length of the tire used, the weight and the size of the engine. The cart must be in stable equilibrium in all engine positions. The width of the frame must correspond to the width of the mobile tracks.

It is advisable to use carriage-type wheels with a side that prevents derailment. The diameter of the wheels should ensure smooth, effortless movement.

Assembly can begin by making two side frames with wheels. Then they need to be installed on the rails opposite each other, fixed and assembled the upper part. It is advisable to make all connections using electric welding. In the corners, to increase rigidity, it is necessary to weld jibs or corners made of sheet steel 3-4 mm thick.

To mount the engine you will need a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 to 8 mm. If the engine is light in weight, the nuts for the studs that move the saw can be welded to the sheet after cutting out the holes. For engines of significant weight, it is better to make an additional reinforced frame. The assembly of the structure must be carried out on a trolley, having prepared all the elements. First you need to assemble using “tacks”, connecting the parts so that they can be easily cut or torn off. Then you need to check the design for assembly accuracy. The main points to check should be:

• easy movement without significant effort of the saw throughout the entire permissible space;
• precise position of the tire without tilting, corresponding to the plane of movement;
• rigid, without movement, position of the entire mobile structure.

If the design has passed the test, you can begin welding all connections.

Chain sawmill- an indispensable assistant for any builder. Not a single serious repair can be done without it. This tool is especially relevant for those who live in the private sector and are constantly faced with construction and repair problems.

Description of the bus sawmill

According to the principle of operation, a tire (chain) sawmill is to some extent reminiscent of a band sawmill: the tree trunk being sawed (board, log) is also in a stationary, fixed state, while the cut is made by the saw. The saw itself is mounted on a moving carriage. The only difference between a bus sawmill and a band sawmill is that the bus sawmill uses exactly chain Saw, not tape.

But why chain, if today there are more effective varieties of sawmills? The problem is that working with a tire sawmill is not as highly productive and economical. Despite these shortcomings, many people use this type of sawmill due to its cheapness and convenience, and true craftsmen even make chain sawmills with their own hands. Some people save money this way, while others simply want to create a tool that would fully meet the individual wishes of the master.

Chain sawmill video:

Homemade chain sawmill

So, how to make a chain sawmill yourself? First of all, decide on the place where the sawmill will stand. The problem is that this is far from the lightest tool (mainly due to the heavy frame), and it will be difficult to constantly drag it around. Find out where the chain sawmill will be most often used. This could be a workshop, garage or yard. After this, you can begin to create the main structure.

As a basis, you need to take two metal (mostly steel) channels or two rails. Height and length vary depending on the wishes of the master. The average design includes 2 channels or rails 1.4-1.5 cm high, 8 m long. The main condition for the base is perfectly straight metal blanks. The performance of the sawmill itself will depend on this.

Next, at a distance of 1-1.5 m along the length of the workpieces, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 15 (+/- 1) mm. The distance between these holes must be the same, so measuring work should be carried out first. The number of holes will depend on the length of the step and channel, so it can be anything. We will need the same quantity of sections of water pipes, each of which should be 3 quarters in length, 2.5 cm each. To connect the ties with the channels, you will need bolts. At the same time, the racks, which can consist of channels, pipes or ready-made corners, are assembled and fastened (by welding or M12 bolts). The number of posts varies depending on the length general design. In the case of a long bed of 8 meters, there will be 4 racks. The frame is installed on these racks so that the outer racks are at a distance of 1 m from the ends of the guides. To ensure the rigidity of the base, braces are installed, and to give a horizontal direction, soil is dug under the posts or the legs are placed on boards, bars, etc. This once again confirms the need to create a chain sawmill directly at the place where it will have to work.

After manufacturing the main structure, we begin to create a movable cart. The basis is a steel plate. Its length must correspond to the dimensions of the electric motor. On average, 60 cm. Plate thickness - 5 (+/- 1) mm. Free movement along the length of the guides will depend on the thickness of the clamping plates and spacers. When choosing the thickness, take into account the fact that the gap should be as small as possible. The clamping plates and spacers are fastened with 8 M8 bolts. At the bottom of the cart a corner stop of 4 cm by 4 cm is attached, and at the top they are attached (here would be better suited welding) two other corners on which our electric motor will be installed in the future. To allow the cart and electric motor with the saw to move, a chain is used. It is tensioned as much as possible so that the work of the sawmill is much more accurate (a loose chain will not be able to ensure the tool operates correctly).

In principle, our sawmill is already ready. It remains to finalize some details that will make cutting a more convenient and faster process, and to install the engine with the saw. To fix the sawn trunk (logs, boards) use special device, made from pipes with a diameter of up to 4 cm (but not too thin). They should include moving rods that are fixed at the desired height. On the rods themselves there are clamping mechanisms and clamps that will provide the necessary fixation.

For the above parameters, a saw with a diameter of 1 m, as well as a 10 kW electric motor, are ideal. When creating the base, as previously written, the wishes of the master are taken into account, so everyone sets their own individual parameters. It could be a sawmill for less powerful engine and not like this big saw(mini-sawmill), or vice versa. Make sure that the base and the “heart” of the chain sawmill match.

Now you have your own working chain sawmill. The price of such a tool on the retail market ranges from $1000 and above. Working with a homemade tire sawmill is no more difficult than working with a purchased one. The log is placed and secured with the clamps already on the rods. The engine turns on, the steering wheel turns, and the cart sends our log for a smooth, beautiful cut. The trolley moves in two directions, which is convenient and will minimize possible operating errors. Check the saw fasteners from time to time, follow chain saw safety rules and keep the saw sharp (always replace the old one if necessary). You can also find drawings of chain sawmills on the Internet (construction forums).

Wood sawing machine (saw bench) – rather complex special production equipment that requires strict adherence to safety measures during operation. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can greatly reduce the cost of wooden construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader understand how to make a sawmill with your own hands, choose a suitable design for yourself and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.

When is it needed?

Interest in the “do-it-yourself sawmill” actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, at a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In the Russian Federation the situation is significantly different. First, price scissors wild log and timber in Russia have already been “divorced” a lot. Second, primary wood processing is a particularly dangerous job, just like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian legislation on labor protection in this regard is draconian.

The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. Store sawdust (for example, for fuel for a stove) long burning) is impossible - they begin to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. It’s easier with them “over the hill” - local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with pick-up. The Russian Federation is by no means poor in wood, and Russian manufacturers of board/sheet wood materials do not accept “leftist” batches of sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill yourself in the Russian Federation may make sense:

• An indispensable condition is if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Renting a timber truck for Russian distances (meaning idle mileage from the garage) for Russian roads in the outback, per ton-kilometer of cargo is significantly more expensive than in Europe.
• If the indispensable condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction in the event of a chronic shortage Money. Then, independent sawing of round timber into timber will reduce the construction estimate by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the costs of manufacturing a sawmill. Resp. The construction period will also lengthen, but when there is no money, there is nothing to choose. With sawdust - do what you want, they will turn out once.
• The next option is cutting wild logs to order at home, i.e. a foreman on call to the owner's yard. In the Russian Federation, this is probably best option: you can bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to the place of work in a passenger car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is the owner’s problem, and a small one, because... They are also thrown out to him on the site once. They don’t give the master a headache, i.e. you can register, for example. Individual entrepreneur as a carpenter and work “in white”.

Design Features

The main feature of the sawmill is that the cut in it is always longitudinal. It is well known how difficult it is to cut wood along the grain. Unlike circular saw The sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general irregular shape. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working element (the saw itself) moves along the log being cut; Otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the cut. Large timber processing enterprises also have sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is stationary, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; The centering of the line is ensured by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.

Note: The sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from the butt to the top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and/or break.

What to cut with?

How affordable, durable, convenient and safe to use a home-made sawmill will be is mainly determined by the design of its working part. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its operating mode (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of replacing it. And finally, the energy supply at the place of work is important: what is more accessible there – electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.

In sawmills with small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6-hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:

• Reciprocating saw bar (old).
• Saw blade (item 1 in the figure below).
• Saw band (item 2).
• Saw chain (item 3).
• Chain saw bar continuous action(new, item 4).
• Household chainsaw (item 5).

How to drink?

The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and the cut will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical cutting, firstly, reduces material waste, because It is enough to level the log under it only in the horizontal plane. When cutting horizontally, a log needs to be leveled both horizontally and vertically to minimize waste, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hunch”). Secondly, when cutting vertically, the cut (the part of the log being sawed off) does not put pressure on the working part and clings to it much less. Therefore, to saw the same timber vertically, the drive power required is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:

Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill

But, firstly, the risk of injury with vertical sawmills is much higher than with horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of logs under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and ensuring the maximum permissible sawing accuracy according to specifications of up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a homemade vertical sawmill is extremely difficult or even impossible. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal cut.

Structural composition of the sawmill

We’ll talk a little further about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill. First you need to understand the design sawing machine generally. It consists of:

1. working body - saw (see above and below);
2. drive to it from the motor;
3. saw carriage;
4. rail track (guide) for it;
5. carriage (cradle) for logs;
6. grip holders for him;
7. a frame that combines all this into a single device and ensures its overall strength and reliability.

Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.

Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Secondly, the minimum welding work during assembly. This important point: conducts metal structures during welding; Because of this, it is very problematic to specify the cutting accuracy of a welded sawmill. Thirdly, the carriage rail (item 13 on the right) is made of angle steel, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the support shoes of the carriage are pairs of ordinary rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; trembling of the carriage is the main cause of sawing defects. Another consequence is the carriage feed mechanism without a gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above for horizontal cutting; disc, with a continuous tire and a chainsaw also for a vertical one.

The disadvantage of this machine is the comb log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, as they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will be no thinner than 60 mm. Additionally, material waste will increase because it is impossible to align the log vertically in this machine. However, it is not so difficult to get rid of these shortcomings by using a separate carriage for logs of a simple design, see below.

The operation of the cutting thickness setting unit (in the inset) requires some explanation, which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. The nuts 5 in the insert are welded to the support plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (item 1 in the inset and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (item 20 on the right). There is no need to loosen the locknuts (item 2 in the inset): they will loosen on their own. When the saw is installed in a new position below the previous one, the locknuts are tightened by hand.

Saw like a saw – longitudinal

A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in Fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill is from a flywheel to a crank mechanism through a slider - a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or Babbitt liners (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In former times, craftsmen used carpenter's bow saw blades instead of a saw bar; They also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the tension of the blade during the reverse stroke is ensured by a fairly strong return spring.

The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. low material waste. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:

• Low productivity: if the feed of the carriage during the reverse stroke of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the tooth height, i.e. 4 mm, the saw gets stuck.
• It is impossible to saw a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the blade immediately gets stuck and wrinkles.
• Damp, unseasoned wood does not take, it also immediately gets stuck and breaks.
• Very often gets stuck on knots and strands.
• If there is insufficient tension on the reverse stroke, the cut sharply worsens - it becomes wide and torn.
• The same applies to an excessively strong return spring.

In professional forestry, reciprocating saw bars fell out of use by the end of the 19th century, and among amateurs, with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.

Disk

A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit into a sawmill: it is made of steel of poorer quality than required in this case. When sawing raw logs, the disk material from the circular saw will soon release itself due to heating, the disk will quickly fail or be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade For a sawmill, the pleasure is not cheap. In some sources you can find advice: they say, cut out a round piece from galvanized (!) or duralumin (!!!), attach 2-4 teeth to it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.

Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking because... allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from timber in one pass; For this purpose, angle and multi-disc saw carriages are used (inset at the top left of the figure). However, an industrial circular sawmill is a complex structure, see Fig., which does not work on the “do-it-yourself” topic.

If an amateur gets a sawmill blade (diameter from 600 mm, tooth profile the same as that of a rip saw, see above), he needs to keep in mind the following advantages and disadvantages:

• Long resource – up to 5000 hours or more; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
• To sharpen, you definitely need a sharpening machine; you can’t do it by hand.
• The cut is not very even, 3-5 mm wide, i.e. material waste up to 10-12% by volume. A “clean cut” disc, which produces a waste of 2-5%, costs 3-10 times more than a simple one.
• You can cut without any technical breaks for 6 hours. shift; Maximum performance in this class of devices.
• High energy consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in a cut with the side surface of a large area. To obtain the required drive power in kW, multiply the diameter of the log in dm by 1.7.
• The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed have virtually no effect on the productivity of the sawmill.
• A disk with a diameter of 800 mm can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
• Discs larger diameter in amateur designs they are very dangerous, because require a high-precision drive to avoid runout.
• The drive is only electric, because The disk should rotate absolutely smoothly at idle. In the tree he’s already got more than enough tugs.

In general, a DIY circular sawmill is definitely not an option. Let's look at the drawings in Fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is the carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: a 1-2 mm misalignment of the rollers when moving the carriage is inevitable. The consequence is a disk misalignment of 6 mm or more. Right there he gets stuck in a tree. Considering the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.

Next, the lower edge of the disk must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish cutting it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first top. What's next? In theory, you need several grooves in the carriage, depending on the thickness of the resulting boards. After each cut, either the carriage is raised, moved forward and lowered back to the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Can you imagine such a design made at home? No need, your head will hurt a lot.

What if it’s simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, it's not easy. It must be laid again so that the next cut runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there’s not a stick, there’s a huge, heavy block of wood.

Well, let’s say we have a strong family/staff, we don’t care about moving logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, this is a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the carriage, or tip over when 2-3 blocks are sawed off (unedged boards of the entire timber for cutting into measuring boards). The holder is located in the very middle of the log. You can't cut on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most evenly drying core block will most likely go to waste, because Due to the repositioning of the log, the thickness will be unacceptably converging on a wedge.

Note: an amateur single-disc sawmill for horizontal sawing is no more convenient or more productive than a vertical one, but its design is much more complex and dangerous.

So, making a circular sawmill with your own hands is an option in one and only case: if you have come up with an improvement to it that is a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all other cases, it’s not necessary.

Band saw

The band sawmill is one of the inventions that produce significant results with trivial technical solutions. The reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of reverse motion. This means that you need to get rid of it in order to get a continuous saw blade. As a result operational properties band sawmill differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines for similar purposes:

1. Productivity – up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
2. Saws both seasoned and raw freshly chopped round timber.
3. The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of a rip saw blade, and the material waste is just as low.
4. The cutting accuracy is as high as that of a circular sawmill, provided that the saw blade tension is uniform and optimal.
5. It is impossible to saw logs immediately into pieces of measured materials.
6. Energy consumption per 1 cubic meter m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a circular sawmill.
7. To avoid self-release of the tape material, technical breaks in work are necessary: ​​after each wash for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) – 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work – half an hour to an hour; from 6 hour shift to next. the same - at least 2 hours.
8. The full resource of the working body (belt) is 100-500 hours; re-sharpening is not possible.
9. The cost of the tape per hour of work is much less than that of a simple saw blade.
10. The cost of the entire machine is several times less than a disk machine with an angular carriage per cut.
11. The drive is electric, because The idle speed of the belt needs to be as high as for a disk.

Due to these features, the band sawmill is most widely used in small sawmills. According to most advertisements: “We accept round logs/logs for sawing,” it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).

The simplest way to do rip saw– roll the fabric into a ring and place it on the pulleys, pos. 1 on next Fig.. To prevent injury from the non-working branch of the blade, a protective cover is put on the working part. Making a sawmill with a belt without it (item 2) is extremely dangerous!

The second stumbling block for DIYers here is the belt pulleys. The branded ones have a special slightly convex profile of the side surface (working surface). The belt slides off the cylindrical pulley; flanges (edges) do not help. Some craftsmen tilt the entire sawing unit upward by 1-3 degrees. However, as soon as the tension of the tape weakens (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without a protective cover, this is even more dangerous than sliding down.

Smarter craftsmen have found a way out: they put the tape on the wheels of cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in Fig. and rice at first. Their profile almost exactly matches the required one, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least enough to cut a whole log. In addition, if thin enough quality materials, then you can get by with a simple friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. The manufacture of the machine is also simplified, because auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:

Video: DIY band sawmill

Transfer to saw

When sawing raw, untreated logs and knotty/twisty and sticky fine-grained wood, the transmission from the drive to the belt (the main one) is also a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristics of the belt are too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. Gear gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will get stuck in the tree and become crushed, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.

The best final drive for a band sawmill is a chain drive. Idling It provides a belt almost as smooth as a belt. And when sawing “bad” wood, the chain’s own inertia pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the inhomogeneities of the wood are successfully overcome. The same property of chain transmission is used, for example. in screw wood splitters.

Chain instead of tape

The working body of a chain sawmill is a chain with saw teeth stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, service life and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length before wear is lower. The saw chain can be re-sharpened (you need a sharpening machine!) and does not require any technical breaks during the shift. The drive can be energy-independent from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.

Disadvantages: firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against wood, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs sanding (that’s why a surface grinder is not often built into it) or will be sold as a second grade. Consequence: increased material waste, up to 15% by volume. Third, in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (cutting fluid, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. The fourth is a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the chain properties: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: re-sharpening and/or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fiddling with them - mom, don’t worry!

Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used primarily. for primary sawing of timber at stock exchanges and harvesting sites. In the latter case decisive role The energy independence of a machine with an internal combustion engine plays a role: it is brought in on a truck or tractor, the wood is unraveled onto blocks and taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, wood losses are often more than compensated by savings on round timber transportation by timber trucks. But this approach, of course, does not benefit the forest as a living community. Both from excessive cutting and from clogging with sawdust.

New tire

The continuous saw bar is a cantilever chain saw, i.e. does not require tension at the end farthest from the drive; it also does not require coolant supply. Do you recognize? This is the “blade” of the chainsaw. Application modern materials and continuous improvement of the design made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable in all respects for domestic use. A sawmill made from a chainsaw at home is also much easier to make than any other; drawings of a frame with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its performance qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as for a chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cutting is carried out simply by rearranging the carriage. But please note:

• The service life of the saw motor will be reduced by approx. doubled.
• Full canvas resource best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and cheap ones - 10-12 hours.
• Every 2-3 hours you will need to re-sharpen, and every 4-6 hours you will need to replace the teeth (if possible for this sample).
• The total operating time during the day is 2-3 hours.
• Maintenance break until next shift – from 12 hours.
• The saw must be designed for both transverse and longitudinal cuts.

The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. Models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example) have both cuts provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal one is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in a sawmill, because... You cannot stop the carriage while cutting is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. “Alternative” manufacturers often have the opposite: the default saw is only a cross-cut saw. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.

Special continuous saw bars are produced for sawmills. Due to the refusal of a transverse cut, their offset (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - same as saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of homemade ones, the Logosol type tire sawmill, center-right in the figure, is of much greater interest. Spring edge supports keep the log from rolling away. The elevators are adjusted separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.

The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 30s, the export of unprocessed wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which had forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber, with standards equal to the size of a log. In the EU, the main domestic logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are plenty of smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working with an acute shortage of raw materials. Given the prices for timber there, calculating the income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing it into boards in one’s yard gave results that made one’s eyes pop. Plus - there is no headache with disposal of sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling it. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with a sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with a clamp. This requires more labor and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Hobbyists have certainly developed many modifications successful development Byström. Their drawings of Logosols and components for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. How to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:

Video: DIY mobile-stationary Logosol “Terya”

The appearance of Logosol is the direct reason for the development of saw bars for sawmills. There are models available for sale that are compatible with household chainsaws: remove the standard blade and install the bar. Thus, the issue with the cost and labor intensity of the drive was resolved: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.

Mini

A further development of Logosol’s idea is a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; With careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and drive, only the support platform and handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.

The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from an angle, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones are the same as the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is necessary, place a channel (bottom right), because in this case, a flat lateral supporting surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing the log on the carriage, leveling it and holding it.

Carriage, grips, clamps

There remains such a problem as a frame with additional components. The one on pos. 1 pic. the left is far from optimal. For one-time sawing for self-construction, it is too complex and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200 mm channel, it will not sag after the first or second dozen logs, which means the machine is completely unsuitable. A stationary sawmill should be made with separate concrete rail tracks and a carriage for logs (item 2; in this case we will not focus on safety precautions - the topic of this article is different).

The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, hydraulic jacks with hooks are used for this purpose. The log is hung on the hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching it, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and hydraulics, based on sensor signals, immediately levels the timber.

In amateur conditions, the first is not feasible; the second is in no way feasible. In many homemade sawmills Log grippers are made as shown in Fig. below. The log is hung on automatic jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along a guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are tapped with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.

Firstly, such fastening is simply dangerous: vibrations during sawing can cause the grips to become wedged, and this is an accident most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the wood by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over before finishing it halfway. As a result, the cutting quality and material waste will be the same as on a vertical single-disc sawmill, see above.

Carriage

Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage suitable, incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on the road:

1. materials – ordinary rolled metal without preliminary screening for evenness;
2. for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
3. the influence of the quality of welding and warping of the metal from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
4. prepared base (support) surface – not required;
5. weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup truck and on the top trunk of a car;
6. the maximum length of the processed log is 6 m;
7. its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
8. leveling and hanging the log - in any way independent of the carriage, see below;
9. the influence of the flatness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
10. the reliability of holding the most clumsy, unrooted forest is absolute;
11. the ability to dismantle the sawn blocks into edged measuring boards/beams without readjusting the sawmill - a must;
12. security – sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of untrained outsiders is easily controlled.

Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. minis that satisfy the specified conditions are shown in Fig. (left/center – top view). Material – channel 120x60, rod 14 and 16 mm.

Exactly under the M14 holes in the upper flange of the channel, D15 holes are drilled in the lower flange for the passage of the shanks of the hook holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded feet. The plan configuration and location of the grip holders make it possible to reliably hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage like this:

• the log is hung and leveled on a pair of auto jacks. An option is to use one jack at a time: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and lift the other one;
• the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with the widened part towards the butt and aligned along the axis of the timber. If the log was hung on a hoist, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
• the holder hooks are turned out until they touch the log so that their points look inward exactly at each other. A slip by one turn (by M14 thread pitch) does not affect the cutting accuracy;
• the log is lowered onto the hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and a support, then first release the jack, and then knock out the support with one sharp blow;
• to securely hold a thin light log, you can sit on it and jump;
• saw the log using any sawmill using horizontal cuts. The thickness of the last slab in the vast majority will not exceed 40 mm.

Clamps

Full functionality of this carriage will be ensured by 2-5 clamps (3 are almost always enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from Fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the standard holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! Before dissolving into boards/beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on a gun carriage and cut into boards/beams using horizontal cuts.

Bottom line

Let’s take a look, as they say, at a grandma: what kind of sawmill to make with your own hands and in what cases does it make sense.

If you see a range of clients for sawing and/or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - a band on motor-wheels. It will last at least until you have enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in its entirety and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is a side hustle for you, the Logosol sawmill will perform better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy on the farm anyway.

When it is necessary to process a large number of boards and wood, it is best to use a self-made sawmill. Many people believe that it is best to purchase a ready-made unit, but making it yourself will not work a lot of work. The main thing is to decide what the volume of work ahead will be, as well as the wood, after which you need to choose the type of sawmill to successfully complete the task.

Assembling the unit with your own hands, Special attention should pay attention to safety issues, because such a device is considered a high-risk item. Manufacturing various types sawmills are presented further in the video.

The principle of operation of the sawmill

Explain, how does a sawmill work, using the example of spools of thread. This device resembles the rotation of two spools with a thread stretched between them. It is this that acts as a saw, and the distance between the coils will be optimal size logs

A DIY sawmill allows you to:

• adjust logs to one shape and size;
• saw logs according to a specific pattern after the equipment is set up;
• After sawing, small defects often form that cannot be eliminated, so the wood has to be processed manually.

The sawmill works as follows:: a log is fixed on the platform, which remains motionless, and at this time the mobile cart starts moving and cuts the tree. The saw must be in a horizontal position.

In order to obtain boards of the required size, the operator initially sets the necessary parameters. The saw blade acts as a saw, and it must be well tensioned.

How to make sawmills with your own hands

The most Common types of sawmills are corner, strip and chain., as well as devices assembled using a chainsaw.

Band sawmill

Collect sawmill belt type doing it yourself at home is quite difficult. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to achieve maximum coherence of all its constituent elements in the process of work. In addition, you will need the necessary components and special tools, but the main thing is that you have the necessary drawings at hand. The finished structure must work with material whose weight is about three hundred kilograms. In addition, it is necessary to adjust the adjustment of the threaded thickness and observe safety precautions.

DIY sawmill assembly carried out on a site of the required size, which should be prepared in advance. The device will require special wheels and band saws. Then, in accordance with the drawings, the frame of the future unit is assembled. Work on the frame begins with the manufacture of special rails. To do this, you can pick up a corner and install one of the sides up. Then the wheels are installed, maintaining maximum strength.

Between two corners, set parallel, sleepers are made from a profile pipe, which are designed to ensure their reliable fastening to each other. To this profile pipe Weld fasteners for logs that move freely in all directions. Then, according to the drawing, the cart is assembled and the wheels are attached to it.

Finally, the electric motor is installed, connected through a special pulley to the operating mechanism of the device.

Chain sawmill

The principle of operation of such a homemade product reminds band sawmill , the only difference being that it uses a chain saw. The design of such a device is much simpler and smaller in size, which means that it is much easier to make it yourself. The chain sawmill is installed on a flat area so that it can be conveniently approached from any side.

Assembly of the chain device It begins with making a frame from a metal profile. Having assembled the main part, they make several technological holes, while maintaining extreme accuracy. The number of holes depends on the step length. Then they begin to assemble the racks and install the frame on them, after which additional stiffeners are made. This creates the basis of a chain structure.

In addition, it is necessary to assemble a movable cart for the sawmill with your own hands. To do this, prepare the base and attach the stop, gaskets, clamping plates and mounts for the electric motor to it.

Then the trolley is mounted to the frame, fasten the engine with the saw, tighten the chain and that’s it, the DIY chain sawmill is ready.

Corner or disc sawmill

If there is a need for radical cutting of boards, then it is best to use a corner or disk design.

Corner The sawmill has many functions and is used for large volumes of work. It is best to make such a design yourself, because finished equipment is very expensive. To assemble it, you should use the appropriate drawings, and before starting work you need to purchase all the necessary components and components.

First, a frame is assembled from metal pipes and high-strength guides. All joints are fastened by welding. It is best to use rails as guides. Then the carriage is assembled. During assembly, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of all dimensions indicated in the drawing.

In the corner or disc sawmill is installed Gas engine high power, which effectively affects the process of sawing wood. The engine is mounted on the structure frame and connected to the working elements through special holes. Most often, such sawmills are equipped with chain transmission, but in some cases this leads to overheating of the drive itself. When assembling the drive, it is necessary to pay due attention to safety precautions and eliminate possible risks during its operation.

Chainsaw sawmill

IN living conditions most often such a large sawmill is not required, therefore, the optimal solution in this case would be a mini-machine, which you can also make yourself. There are several types of mini sawmills, they have small sizes and if necessary, they can be easily moved to another place. Such a device is made using a chainsaw, which acts as the main element.

To make a mini sawmill from a chainsaw with your own hands, you will need:

• two channels;
• corners;
• rails.

The work begins with assembling the frame, on which it is necessary to drill several technological holes. Then install the ties from metal pipe. They are fastened with mounting bolts into pre-drilled holes. During installation, be sure to control the angles between the elements: they must be straight.

To strengthen the frame, several stiffening ribs are mounted. Then the movable cart is assembled from a steel plate. Two corners are welded at the bottom of this plate, after which it is placed on bearings or rollers. Two corners are welded to the top of the movable cart, intended for mounting a chainsaw.

Finally, a special structure is installed for fastening the processed logs.

DIY sawmill video.

Because The sawmill is considered a rather dangerous unit impressive in size, then before assembling it with your own hands, you need to carefully consider where it will be used. Good for this:

• barn;
• garage;
• ordinary utility room with a concrete base.

Such a place should be well ventilated, spacious and have sufficient lighting. A place for this device can also be found on the street, but a canopy must be equipped for it.

If the sawmill has an electric motor, then you need to carefully consider the installation of wiring and installation of the necessary switches and machines. If there is a warehouse for finished boards near the place of work, this greatly simplifies the whole process.

When assembling the unit with your own hands, special attention must be paid to its cutting and moving parts, which are considered the most dangerous elements. In general, safety precautions should be observed when operating the device.

After assembling the sawmill and before starting work, be sure to check all fastenings and components, as well as the stability of the structure. The first start of the device is carried out after following all the necessary recommendations.

Thus, making a sawmill with your own hands is not a difficult task. These devices are different types and the process of their assembly is presented in the video. You should also definitely use the drawings so as not to make any mistakes. When operating a sawmill, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, because this is a rather dangerous device.