A simple tire sawmill with your own hands. Tire sawmill. The nuances of the workflow

Jokers can say this: "Repairs cannot be completed, they can be temporarily suspended." Irony is very useful here, since an economic person always has a reason and a desire to build or improve something. It would be for this time, yeah Construction Materials. The building materials market is saturated to the limit. That's just the prices for them can hurt the wallet.

The difference between a home-made tire sawmill and a regular one is that the cutting element here is a tire and a chain from a chainsaw.

And if you think about it, then some of the materials can be made independently. You can definitely prepare lumber with your own hands. It is enough just to make a tire sawmill.

Necessary tools and materials

Tire sawmill has no special design tricks. It differs from a conventional sawmill in that the cutting element here is a tire and a chain from the most ordinary chainsaw. The first versions of such sawmills were made on the basis of a chainsaw. At the moment, craftsmen recommend making sawmills using more powerful gasoline or electric engines. Preference should be given to internal combustion engines. In this case, the sawmill will not need an electrical outlet and can be used away from communications. You can cut logs directly in the forest.

To make a tire sawmill, you will need:

metal channels;
tubes (it is better to have rectangular tubes);
bearings;
engine;
two pulleys;
belts for pulleys;
reducer;
chainsaw tire;
electric welding;
drill.

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Build Order

First you have to collect cutting machine. For a tire sawmill, a frame is made that resembles a cube frame. In the central part of this bed should be a tire from a chainsaw. The tire must be secured on both sides.

The driven sprocket is usually mounted on a vertical holder. The opposite part of the tire is attached to elements that allow you to adjust the chain tension. But this is optional.

It is better to securely fix the tire, and organize the chain tension by moving the drive sprocket. It is not difficult to do this: the drive sprocket is mounted on the gearbox shaft, which is fixed on a metal base with longitudinal slots. It will be enough just to release the fasteners and move the gearbox in the required direction.

We connect the drive shaft of the gearbox with a pulley (on a key). The second pulley will be on the engine. The place for mounting the engine must be organized so that nothing interferes with the movement of the cutting machine of the sawmill. Rollers are used to tension belts. The design of the belt clutch may be different. It is not necessary to make this element yourself: any design from agricultural machines will do.

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How to adjust tire height?

And now you have to think over a system that allows you to adjust the height of the chainsaw tire above ground level. The simplest solution would be to place the entire cutting machine on vertical stands. For this, two pipes are used, on which pipe trimmings are put on. larger diameter. Movement should be free, but without play. External (movable) tubes have holes to which nuts are welded. By screwing the bolts into these nuts until they stop, you will get a reliable fixation of the height. For convenience, on the bearing racks, notches can be made at a distance of 1 cm from each other. So, you can accurately determine the height of lowering the cutting element of the sawmill and get lumber of the required size at the output.

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How to arrange horizontal movement?

And now we will solve the issue of moving the entire sawmill along the log. Unlike conventional band sawmills, where a log is fed to the cutting elements, tire sawmill itself should move along the line of the intended cut. Vertical racks for this, they are welded to a metal base, in the lower part of which wheels (or bearings) are located.

There are sawmills based on chainsaws that move along rails on appropriate wheels. This perfect option, since there is no need to invent anything. In reality, it will be difficult to find all the elements to create such a movable sawmill base. More often used metal wheels that move along the guides. U-shaped channels are used for guides. The wheels in this design must be able to be adjusted in height (minimum 2 adjustable wheels). This design of the base of the sawmill will allow you to achieve the location of all reference points in the same plane.

The guide channels must be welded together into a single structure. You can also make a collapsible design of the guides, then the tire sawmill can be easily dismantled and delivered to the place of the intended sawing.

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The importance of a secure fit

And now you need to take care of fixing the tree. To do this, you will also have to equip a small structure. Usually a metal base is welded from two corners (a corner section of 5 by 5 can be considered optimal). At the bottom of this structure, you need to weld an emphasis with spikes in the direction of the tree. They will keep the tree from any movement.

In the back of the structure, the same emphasis is needed, but having a movable base (along the line of the log). This stop will allow you to cut logs of various lengths. Spikes can be made from ordinary bolts, passed through holes in the stop and fixed with nuts on the inside. Then the bolts are simply sharpened.

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Design features

We can assume that the tire sawmill has acquired its final form and is ready for sawing wood. Do not rush and do not expect to do everything perfectly quickly and accurately. The sawmill must pass more tests, and the operator must learn how to work on it. On this path, certain negative points may lie in wait for you:

Tire sawmill in the upper part is heavier. The center of gravity at a high altitude causes strong deviations in the direction of the tire. Lumber will have a noticeable "ripple". Vibration is felt by the operator very strongly. There are two ways out: either place the engine from the sawmill below, or increase the weight of the lower part.
The sawmill moves along the guides only with great effort on the part of the operator. If the sawmill wheels do not have excessive friction with the guides, then the reason for the inconvenience lies again in the location of the center of gravity. The design needs a counterweight to the engine.
When sawing, the chain stops. A common occurrence with improper clutch adjustment. You just need to tighten the clutch rollers or shorten the cable.

Initially, tire sawmills were made on the basis of a chainsaw.

This caused a number of serious inconveniences. Feeding wood and working with the accelerator of the chainsaw was only possible with the participation of two people. The design of the sawmill described above allows one person to work successfully on it. By moving the cutting part of the sawmill, the operator sees all the moments of sawing and can independently adjust the speed of the bar on the tree trunk. Usually, it takes about 5 minutes to cut a 4-meter log. A chainsaw will do the job somewhat faster, but the cut quality will not be as smooth as with a tire sawmill.

A sawmill from a chainsaw can have a stationary tire arrangement. In this case, the log itself is served. It is not necessary for several people to be present. Supply is provided through the use of chains from agricultural machinery. Such a chain is fixed to a movable trolley on which the log is located. The chain is fixed on sprockets, one of which should be located next to the operator and have a handle for rotation. Such homemade products work no worse than the rest. The only drawback is that such tire sawmills require an additional load on the hands and certain sawing skills from a person.

Residents of suburban areas are often faced with the need to use various woodworking devices that are used for domestic purposes on personal plot. Today in the market of manual and stationary construction tool there is a wide range of wood processing devices, but they are quite expensive. The most popular of them are sawmills. In this article we will talk about how to make a tire sawmill.

The purpose of the tire sawmill

Any construction works or the maintenance of buildings is accompanied by enormous financial costs that are associated with the processing of wood, for example, sawing timber, harvesting boards, making rafters, beams or pieces of furniture.

The main task of a home-made tire sawmill is a high-quality longitudinal cut of logs of any kind of wood to obtain unedged and edged board, veneer, slats, gun carriage, timber and cut thin gauge. Tire sawmill is designed to produce small batches of sawn timber, processing irregular blanks for the manufacture of special sizes of sawn timber.

The petrol tire sawmill does not need a large area and can be easily mounted on a limited land plot. There are stationary devices working from electrical network, and autonomous, functioning on gasoline. The latter option is very convenient for going into the forest and harvesting the necessary lumber on the spot.

The longest workpiece that can be processed on a tire sawmill with your own hands reaches seven meters. In this case, the cross section of the workpiece does not exceed 40 cm.

The average cutting speed with a board length of 3 m from a pine log, with a diameter of 25 cm, will be about 7 minutes on a home-made tire sawmill.

Types of Tire Sawmills

You can independently create two types of tire machines:

with the movement of the working unit relative to the workpieces being processed
with a longitudinal method of feeding logs.

It is impossible to say unequivocally that some sawmill is worse and some better, because both types of sawmills have their pros and cons. For example, while moving the working unit along the workpiece, a person can control the applied forces, ensuring a smoother ride and sawing wood at high speed. And in the case of feeding the workpiece towards the sawing mechanism, the control of sawing is significantly more difficult. The smallest increase in the pushing force of the wood causes a sharp increase in the load on the bar and chain. As a result, the chain may jam or the motor will overheat. However, this version of the sawmill does not have additional wires moving behind the main unit.

Of course, the final choice of device type depends on the individual needs of each person. However, regardless of the type of sawmill chosen, it is worth paying increased attention to creating a high-quality foundation that reduces vibration. Metal channels or rails are the best basis on which the tire sawmill will stand. Blueprints similar devices are present in large numbers on the Internet. You just need to decide on the type of machine and you can start creating.

Before starting the assembly process, it is worth purchasing all the necessary materials and tools. In order to get a tire sawmill, the creation video of which is presented below, you will need:

accurate schematic drawing
metal channel or rail
nozzles of various diameters
electric motor
chainsaw tire and drive sprocket
welding machine and electrodes
electric grinder and drill
hammer, tape measure and chalk.

To make a tire sawmill, you can use the components of a conventional chainsaw. The working part includes a tire, an electric power unit and a clutch system, which are located in a separate housing.

First of all, you need to create a frame in the shape of a rectangle. The tire is located in the center of the base. Taking into account the fact that the frame will be subjected to high loads, it must be securely fastened on both sides. The drive sprocket often has a hole that is designed to mount elements to a high-strength alloy metal axis. The axle makes it possible to avoid moving the tire in a horizontal plane.

To prevent vertical displacement, it is necessary to attach two bearings as tightly as possible to the tire on the axle on both sides. Next, you need to put on a sleeve that clamps the bearings, after which the axis should be welded to one side of the frame.

On the opposite side there will be an electric motor and a chain tension control system. Here you don’t even need to invent anything, just use factory spare parts from a chainsaw. The main drum is mounted on the shaft of the electric power unit and is fixed with a longitudinal key.

The final stage of assembly can be called centering and secure fixation in the body. Special attention during the implementation of work with your own hands, it is necessary to pay attention to the installation of the motor, which will vibrate strongly during sawing. For this reason, it is necessary to provide a rigid frame.

Now you know how to make a tire sawmill with your own hands. Such a unit ensures the implementation of high-quality sawing of wood. The main characteristics of the tire sawmill: accuracy, compactness, low price, simple design, reliability, light weight, ergonomics during operation, ease of transportation.

Homemade tire sawmill, video

Sawing machine for wood (sawmill) - rather complex special production equipment, requiring strict observance of safety measures in the course of work. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce the cost of wood construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader figure out how to make a sawmill with their own hands, choose the design that suits them and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.

When is it needed?

Interest in the "do-it-yourself sawmill" actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, in a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In Russia, the situation is significantly different. First, "scissors" of prices for wild log and timber in Russia are already "divorced" a lot. Secondly, the primary processing of wood is a particularly dangerous job, like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian labor protection legislation is draconian in this respect.

The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. It is impossible to store sawdust (for example, for fuel for a long-burning stove) - they begin to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. “Beyond the hillock” is easier with them - the local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with self-delivery. The Russian Federation is not poor in wood in any way, and Russian manufacturers of slab / sheet wood materials"Left" parties do not take sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill on your own in the Russian Federation may make sense:

An indispensable condition is if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Renting a timber truck for Russian distances (meaning an idle run from the garage) along Russian roads in the outback per ton-kilometer of cargo is much more expensive than the European one.
If the indispensable condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction with a chronic shortage Money. Then independent sawing of round timber into timber will reduce the construction estimate by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the cost of manufacturing a sawmill. Resp. the construction period will also be lengthened, but when there is no money, then there is nothing to choose from. With sawdust - do what you want, they will turn out once.
The next option is sawing wild logs to order at home, i.e. master on call to the master's farmstead. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, this is perhaps the best option: you can also bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to your place of work in a passenger car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is the owner's problem, and a small one, because. they are also thrown out to him on the site once. The master does not have a headache from them, i.e. you can register, eg. IP carpenter and work "in white".

Design features

The main feature of the sawmill is that the saw in it is always longitudinal. How much more difficult it is to cut wood along the grain is well known. Unlike circular saw the sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general irregular shape. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working body (actually a saw) moves along the sawn log; otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the washed down. At large timber processing enterprises there are also sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is motionless, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; alignment of the line is provided by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.

Note: sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from butt to top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and / or break.

What to drink?

How affordable for manufacturing, durable, convenient and safe to use will be homemade sawmill, is mainly determined by the design of its working body. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its mode of operation (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of its replacement. And, finally, the energy supply at the place of work is also important: what is more accessible there - electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.

In sawmills of small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6 hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:

Reciprocating saw bar (old).
Saw blade (pos. 1 in the figure below).
Saw blade (pos. 2).
Saw chain (pos. 3).
Chain saw bar continuous action(new, item 4).
Household chainsaw (pos. 5).

How to drink?

The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and washed down will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical washed down, firstly, reduces the waste of material, because. it is enough to align the log under it only in a horizontal plane. Under a horizontal cut, a log to minimize waste requires alignment both horizontally and vertically, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hump”). Secondly, when sawing vertically, the sawed off (sawn off part of the log) does not put pressure on the working body and clings to it much less. Therefore, for sawing the same timber vertically, the drive power is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:

Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill

But, firstly, the injury risk of vertical sawmills is much higher than horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of a log under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and it is extremely difficult or even impossible to ensure the maximum allowable sawing accuracy according to specifications up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a home-made vertical sawmill. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal gash.

The structural composition of the sawmill

We will talk a little further about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill. First you need to deal with the design sawing machine generally. It consists of:

working body - saws (see above and below);
drive to it from the motor;
saw carriage;
rail track (guide) for it;
carriage (lodgment) for a log;
grips-holders for him;
a frame that combines all this into an integral device and provides its overall strength and reliability.

Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.

Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Second, the minimum welding work during assembly. This is an important point: metal structures during welding leads; because of this, it is very problematic to lay the accuracy of sawing with a welded sawmill in TU. Thirdly, the rail track of the carriage (pos. 13 on the right) from a steel angle, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by the rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the bearing shoes of the carriage are pairs of conventional rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; carriage tremor is the main cause of cutting defects. Another consequence is the carriage feed mechanism without gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design, it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above under a horizontal cut; disk, with a tire of continuous action and a chainsaw, also for vertical.

The disadvantage of this machine is comb-shaped log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will turn out to be no thinner than 60 mm. In addition, material waste will increase because the vertical alignment of the log in this machine is impossible. However, getting rid of these shortcomings is not so difficult by using a separate carriage for a log of a simple design, see below.

Some explanations require the operation of the unit for setting the thickness of the cut (on the sidebar), which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. Nuts 5 on the tie-in are welded to the base plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (pos. 1 on the sidebar and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (pos. 20 on the right). The locknuts (pos. 2 on the sidebar) do not need to be loosened: they will loosen themselves. After installing the saw in a new position below the previous one, the lock nuts are tightened by hand.

Saw like a saw - rip

A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill - from the flywheel to the crank mechanism through the slider - is a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or babbit inserts (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In the old days, instead of a saw tire, craftsmen put blades of carpentry bow saws; they also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the web tension on the return stroke is provided by a sufficiently strong return spring.

The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. little waste of material. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:

Low productivity: if the carriage feed on the reverse motion of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the height of the tooth, i.e. 4 mm, the saw gets stuck.
It is impossible to cut a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the canvas immediately gets stuck and wrinkled.
Raw, unseasoned wood does not take, it also immediately bogs down and breaks.
It often gets stuck in knots and squirrels.
With insufficient tension on the reverse stroke, the cut deteriorates sharply - it becomes wide and torn.
The same - with an excessively strong return spring.

In professional timber processing, reciprocating saw bars went out of use by the end of the 19th century, and among amateurs - with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.

Disk

A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit into a sawmill: it is made of steel of poorer quality than is required in this case. When sawing damp logs, the material of the disc from the circular will soon self-release due to heating, the disc will quickly fail or it will be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade for a sawmill, pleasure is not cheap. In separate sources, you can find advice: they say, cut a round from galvanized (!) Or duralumin (!!!), fasten 2-4 teeth on it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.

Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking, because. allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from the wood in one pass; for this, angle and multi-blade saw carriages are used (top left inset in the figure). However, an industrial sawmill is a complex structure, see Fig., On the topic "do it yourself" does not pass.

An amateur, if he gets hold of a sawmill disk (diameter from 600 mm, the tooth profile is the same as that of a longitudinal saw, see above), you need to keep in mind its advantages and disadvantages:

Large resource - up to 5000 hours and more complete; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
Required for sharpening grinding machine, there is no way to do it manually.
The cut is not very even with a width of 3-5 mm, i.e. material waste up to 10-12% by volume. A “clean cut” disc, giving a waste of 2-5%, costs 3-10 times more than a simple one.
You can cut without technical breaks for the whole 6 hours. shift; maximum performance in this class of devices.
High power consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in a cut with a large side surface. To get the required drive power in kW, multiply the log diameter in dm by 1.7.
The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed have practically no effect on the productivity.
A disc with a diameter of 800 mm can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
Larger discs in amateur designs are very dangerous, because. require a high-precision drive to avoid beating.
The drive is only electric, because. The idle disc must rotate absolutely smoothly. In the tree, he already has more than enough twitching.

In general, a do-it-yourself sawmill is definitely not an option. Consider the drawings in fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is a carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: the rollers are skewed by 1-2 mm when the carriage is moved. The result is a disc warp of 6 mm or more. Immediately - his stuck in a tree. Given the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.

Further, the lower edge of the disc must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish sawing it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first crust. What's next? In theory, the grooves in the carriage need several according to the thickness of the resulting boards. After each washed down, either the carriage rises, moves forward and again falls into the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Do you imagine such a design, made at home? No, it's going to give you a headache.

What if it's simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, not easy. It must be laid again so that the next washed down runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there is not a stick, there is a hefty heavy block of wood.

Well, let's say our family / staff are heroic, we don't care to turn logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then we look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, it's a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the gun carriage, or tip over when 2-3 chopping blocks are sawn off (unedged boards in the entire wood for dissolution on measured boards). The holder falls on the very middle of the log. You can't pee on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most uniformly drying core chopping block will most likely go to waste, because. due to the shifting of the log, it will turn out to be unacceptably converging to a wedge in thickness.

Note: an amateur single-disk sawmill for a horizontal saw is no more convenient and no more productive than a vertical one, but structurally it is much more complicated and dangerous.

So, a do-it-yourself circular sawmill is an option in one single case: if you come up with an improvement in the rank of a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all others, it is not necessary.

Saw tape

The band sawmill is one of the inventions that give a significant result with trivial technical solutions. A reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of a reverse motion. So, you need to get rid of it to get a continuous saw blade. As a result operational properties band sawmills differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines of a similar purpose:

Productivity - up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
It cuts both aged and raw freshly chopped round timber.
The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of a rip saw blade, and material waste is just as low.
The cutting accuracy is as high as that of a sawmill, provided that the saw blade is evenly and optimally tensioned.
Sawing logs immediately into pieces of measured materials is impossible.
Energy consumption per 1 cu. m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a sawmill.
In order to avoid self-tempering of the material of the tape, technical breaks in work are necessary: after each washing down for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) - 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work - half an hour-hour; from 6 hour shift to next. the same - at least 2 hours.
Full resource of the working body (tape) - 100-500 hours; restart is not possible.
The cost of a tape in terms of an hour of work is much less than a simple saw blade.
The cost of the entire machine is several times less than that of a disk machine with an angle carriage for one cut.
The drive is electric, because the idle smoothness of the tape needs to be as high as for the disk.

Due to these features, the band sawmill finds the widest application in small sawmills. According to most of the ads: “We accept a round log / log for sawing”, it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).

The simplest way to do rip saw- roll her canvas into a ring and put it on the pulleys, pos. 1 next. fig.. To avoid injury by a non-working branch of the canvas, a protective cover is put on the working body. Doing a sawmill with a tape without it (pos. 2) is extremely dangerous!

The second stumbling block for do-it-yourselfers here is the tape pulleys. The branded profile of the side surface (working) has a special slightly convex profile. The tape slips from the cylindrical pulley; flanges (rims) do not help. Some craftsmen from this tilt the entire sawing knot up 1-3 degrees. However, if the tension of the tape loosens a little (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without protective cover this is even more dangerous than sliding down.

Craftsmen smarter found a way out: the tape is put on wheels from cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in fig. and fig. at first. Their profile is almost exactly what you need, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least for sawing a whole log. In addition, if thin enough are sawn quality materials, then you can get by with the simplest friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. Simplifies the manufacture of the machine, because. auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:

Video: do-it-yourself band sawmill

Transfer to saw

When sawing raw raw logs and knotty / serrated and viscous small-layered wood, the transmission from the drive to the tape (main) also turns out to be a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristic of the belt is too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. The gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will become stuck in the tree and collapse, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.

The best main gear for a band sawmill is chain. It provides an idle run of the belt almost as smooth as a belt one. And when sawing a "bad" tree, the chain's own inertia pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the heterogeneity of the wood is successfully overcome. The same property chain drive used, eg. in screw wood splitters.

Chain instead of ribbon

The working body of a chain sawmill is a chain with saw teeth stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, resource and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length to wear is lower. The saw chain is subject to resharpening (a sharpening machine is needed!) and does not require technical interruptions during the shift. The drive can be non-volatile from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.

Disadvantages, firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against the tree, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs to be sanded (therefore, a grinder is not often built into a grinder) or will go on sale as a second grade. Consequence: increased waste of material, up to 15% by volume. The third is that in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (coolant, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. Fourth - a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the properties of the chain: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: regrinding and / or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fuss with them - mother, do not worry!

Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used predominantly. for the primary sawing of forests at stock exchanges and at harvesting sites. In the latter case decisive role the non-volatility of a machine with an internal combustion engine plays: it is brought on a truck or tractor, the woods are spread into planks and they are taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, timber losses are often more than compensated for by savings on transportation of round timber by timber trucks. But such an approach, of course, does not go to the benefit of the forest as a living community. And from excessive felling, and from clogging with sawdust.

Tire new

The continuous saw bar is a cantilever bar chain Saw, i.e. tension-free at the end far from the drive; coolant supply is also not needed. Do you recognize? This is the “canvas” of a chainsaw. The use of modern materials and the continuous improvement of the design made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable in all respects for domestic use. A sawmill from a chainsaw at home is also made much easier than any other; drawings of a bed with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its operational qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as the chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cut is carried out simply by moving the carriage. But be aware:

The life of the saw motor will be reduced by approx. twice.
Full resource "canvas" best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and cheap - 10-12 hours.
Every 2-3 hours you will need regrinding, and every 4-6 hours you will need to replace the teeth (if it is possible for this sample).
The total working time during the day is 2-3 hours.
Technical break until the next shift - from 12 hours.
The saw must be designed for both transverse and longitudinal cuts.

The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. For models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example), both cuts are provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in the sawmill, because. it is impossible to stop the carriage while the sawing is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. For “alternative” manufacturers, most often the opposite is true: by default, only a cross saw is used. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.

For sawmills, special continuous saw bars are produced. Due to the rejection of the transverse cut, their extension (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - like a saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of home-made ones, a tire sawmill of the Logosol type is of much greater interest, center-right in the figure. Spring-loaded edging supports keep the log from rolling. Elevators are adjustable separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.

The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 1930s, the export of raw wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through well-established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which have forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber with norms even from a log. In the EU, the main own logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are enough smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working on an acute shortage of raw materials. At local prices for timber, the calculation of income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing into a board-beam in my yard gave results that made my eyes but forehead climb. Plus - there is no disposal headache from sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling them. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with the sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with pressure. This requires more work and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Hobbyists have developed many modifications to be sure successful development Byström. Their drawings of Logosols and nodes for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. And how to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:

Video: do-it-yourself mobile-stationary Logosol "Terya"

The appearance of Logosol is the immediate reason for the development of saw bars for sawmills. On sale there are their models, interfaced with household chainsaws: remove the regular canvas, put the tire. Thus, the matter with the cost and laboriousness of the drive was also decided: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.

Mini

Further development of Logosol's idea - a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; with careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and the drive, only the support platform and the handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.

The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, at the top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from a corner, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones - according to the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is needed, a channel is laid (bottom right), because. in this case, a flat lateral support surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing a log on a carriage, aligning it and holding it.

Carriage, grips, clamps

There was such a problem as a frame with additional nodes. The one in pos. 1 fig. on the left is far from optimal. For a one-time sawing on a self-construction, it is too complicated and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200-mm channel, it will not sag on the first or second ten logs, which means the machine is completely unusable. A stationary sawmill must be made with a separate concreted rail track and a carriage for a log (pos. 2; we will not focus on safety in this case - the topic of this article is different).

The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, hydraulic jacks with hooks are used for this. The log is hung on a hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and the hydraulics immediately level the wood according to the signals from the sensors.

In amateur conditions, the first is hardly feasible; the second is not feasible. In many homemade sawmills, log grips are made as shown in fig. below. The log is hung on car jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along the guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are knocked out with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.

Firstly, such a fastening is simply dangerous: the grips can wedge due to vibrations during sawing, and this is an accident, most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the forest by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over without finishing it to half. As a result, the quality of sawing and the waste of material will be the same as on a vertical single-disk sawmill, see above.

gun carriage

Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage, suitable incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on site:

materials - ordinary rolled metal without preliminary rejection for evenness;
for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
the influence of the quality of welding and warping of the metal from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
prepared base (supporting) surface - not required;
weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup truck and on the top trunk of a passenger car;
the maximum length of the processed log is 6 m;
its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
leveling and hanging the log - in any way independent of the gun carriage, see below;
the influence of the evenness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
the reliability of holding the most clumsy unrooted timber is absolute;
the possibility of dissolving sawn planks on edged measuring boards / beams without readjusting the sawmill is a must;
security - sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of unprepared outsiders is easily controlled.

Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. mini, satisfying the specified conditions, are given in fig. (left/center - top view). Material - channel 120x60, bar 14 and 16 mm.

Exactly under the holes M14 in the upper shelf of the channel, holes D15 are drilled in the lower one for the passage of the shanks of the hook-holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded legs. The configuration in plan and the location of the grippers-holders allow you to securely hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage as follows:

the log is hung out and leveled on a pair of car jacks. Option - one jack in turn: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and raise the other;
the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with a widened part to the butt and aligned along the axis of the forest. If the log was hung on a hoist, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
the hook-holders are turned out until the log touches so that their points look inward exactly at each other. Missing one turn (per thread pitch M14) does not affect the sawing accuracy;
the log is lowered onto hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and prop, then the jack is first released, and then the prop is knocked out with one sharp blow;
to reliably hold a thin light log, you can sit on it and jump;
they saw a log with any sawmill with horizontal cuts. The thickness of the last slab in the vast majority will not exceed 40 mm.

Clamps

The full functionality of this carriage will be provided by 2-5 clamps (almost always 3 is enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the regular holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook-holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! For dissolution into boards / beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on the gun carriage and spread on boards / bars with horizontal cuts.

Outcome

Let's like, as they say, grandmas: what kind of sawmill to do with your own hands and in what cases it makes sense.

If you see a circle of clientele for sawing and / or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - band sawing on auto and motorcycle wheels. It will last at least until it has enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in all its form and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is an auxiliary activity for you, the Logosol sawmill will show itself better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy for it on the farm.

The chain sawmill is indispensable assistant for any builder. Not a single major repair can do without it. This tool is especially relevant for those who live in the private sector and often face construction and repair problems.

What is a chain sawmill?

The principle of operation of a chain sawmill to a certain extent resembles a tape machine: the sawn log is firmly fixed, while the cut is carried out by the saw. The saw is attached to a moving carriage. The difference between chain and band sawmills consists only in the fact that in this embodiment only a chain saw is used, and not a band saw.

The main disadvantage of a chain sawmill is its lower productivity and economy compared to band saws. Despite such disadvantages, people use such machines precisely because of its high cost and convenience, but real craftsmen create chain sawmills with their own hands. Someone wants to save money, and someone just wants to make a machine that fully satisfies all the individual wishes of the master.

DIY chain sawmill

What do you need to create a chain sawmill with your own hands? To get started, you should look at the drawings of the chain sawmill on the Internet. The drawings are different, but any such sawmill consists of a chainsaw, a steel frame and rail guides.

In order to create a chain sawmill, you need to firmly attach a metal frame to the saw bar. The gap between the chain and the frame will be equal to the thickness of the resulting lumber. For this reason, you need to decide in advance which lumber you need. By the way, if you make the distance between the chain and the frame larger, then you can create not only boards, but also timber.

An excellent frame will be obtained from two steel channels, 8 meters long and 0.14 meters high. In addition, you can use rails or metal corners. We need blanks of a perfectly straight shape. Along the entire length of the channels, you need to make holes with a diameter of 14-16 millimeters at a distance of up to 1.5 meters.

According to the number of these holes, special screeds must be made from segments of the water pipe. All parts are fastened with threaded studs or bolts.

After that, you need to assemble all the components of the chain sawmill into a single device and install it on racks. The number of racks depends on the dimensions of the bed. The last posts should be no more than 1 meter from the end of the rails.

To give greater rigidity, you need to fix the braces.

After that, the movable trolley is mounted. It can be created from a steel plate with a thickness of 4 to 6 millimeters and a length of about 0.6 meters. The size of the cart depends on the dimensions of the electric motor.

Next, you can proceed to the selection of gaskets and clamping plates for the trolley. The elements must guarantee the free movement of the mechanism. However, the gap should be minimal. The screed of the gaskets should be done with the help of bolts.

Be sure to eliminate the transverse play by mounting the stop angle to the base of the trolley. The trolley can be put on bearings or rollers. Please note that bearings should be used new, used ones definitely will not work.

The chain must be tightened as much as possible. The steering wheel is mounted on one of the bushings of the side sprockets located along the perimeter of the guides.

In order to create a fixing device for a log, you need to take pipes with a diameter of 3 - 4 centimeters, insert movable rods into them that enter the stopper at the required height with an M8 screw.

From above, clamping parts are attached to the rods, the length of which is not less than 1.5 cm, as well as cam clamps.

After that, you can install an electric motor and a saw with a diameter of 1 meter. Choosing a chainsaw for a home sawmill is also not an unimportant process. The chainsaw must have high power, high efficiency. In addition, its chain must be well sharpened. Making a chain sawmill with your own hands is not difficult. But, remember that in addition to creating the device, it is important to ensure safe operation.

This is how "home" chain sawmills are created. A video of the manufacturing process of such a sawmill is presented below.

Safety at work

With high productivity, sawmills are sources of increased industrial injuries. Many people have heard horror stories on the topic “turned his head away, and there is no longer a finger on his hand.” There are many stories like this and they are all true.

Most reliable method reducing the number of injuries and accidents during the use of such equipment - scrupulous observance of all safety regulations. Before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself in detail with the principles of operation and operating instructions for such a device, as well as with fire safety rules.

The highest level of safety is achieved when the sawmill is equipped with a reverse feed system due to its design.

Chain sawmills, video

A do-it-yourself sawmill is not so easy to make, however, if you wish, you can build this machine for sawing wood yourself.

Residents of small towns are well aware of the role any woodworking device plays in their lives, as many use tools in their work. There is a large selection on the market today various devices for woodworking, with sawmills being the most common. These products are divided into disk, frame and tape. Most stores sell frame construction. It differs in the type of cutting element.

Elements that are needed to make a sawmill:

saw;
chain;
electric motor;
walk-behind tractor;
metal plate;
channel;
water tube;
electric drill.

How to build a tire sawmill?

Such a device consists of a frame, clamping elements, a trolley, rollers, an electric motor, a tire and a file. The frame of the sawmill is light in weight, so it is easy to transport it in the trunk of a car. The tire sawmill can be easily moved and mounted close to the workpiece to be sawn.

On a tire sawmill, you can cut logs of almost any length with your own hands. If the scheme provides for the installation of a large section, then the length of the workpiece can be increased by a few more meters. It is advisable to use such a device in the process of building floors at home. Clamping stops have a simple design. Clamps are placed at the end and at the beginning of the workpiece, and the log is attached with screws to the flags for stop. When sawing, it will be possible to lower the thrust elements to the required level. The drawings of the tire sawmill may be different, but the simplest of them is shown.

The steering wheel is mounted on one of the bushings of the stars, which are located in the extreme parts of the guide elements. After that, you can proceed to the construction of a device for fastening workpieces. To do this, you will need to insert rods into tubes with a diameter of 3-4 cm, which should enter the stopper at the appropriate height. The elements can be fixed with M8 screws. On top of the rods, you will need to fasten clamps and clamping elements more than 1.5 cm long.

The trolley can be built from a metal plate 6-7 mm thick. It should have a steering wheel and a corner for emphasis. Next, it should be installed on rollers. As a chain for moving the cart, you can use an element from the combine. By using a sharp saw blade it is possible to ensure that an even base of the cut is obtained. Such a file should be mounted on a carriage that will move along the frame due to the presence of rails.

This element can be made from several metal channels 8 m long and 0.14 m high. At a distance of 1-1.5 m along the length of the channels, recesses must be made into which ties will be installed from pieces of the tube. The entire structure must be installed on racks. The power mechanism on the tire sawmill is a three-phase electric motor with a power of 6 kW. Sawing speed is 18 m/s. Electrical engine located on top of the corners, which are pre-welded.

The tire and chain on the sawmill are used ordinary. In the process of sawing, the rigidity of the tire eliminates the formation of various defects. Sawing accuracy can reach +/-1 mm per 6 m of length. At the end, you should install a convenient device for fixing logs.

How to make a tire sawmill?

The bed is constructed from channels. Metal corners and rails are also used. Details must be straight. Along the length of the channels, it is necessary to make recesses with a diameter of about 15-16 mm at a distance of 1.5 m.

Based on the number of recesses, screeds are constructed from pieces of a drainage pipe. The elements are fixed with bolts. All components are assembled together and mounted on racks. The number of racks is determined by the length of the device. Along the edges of the rack, guide elements must be placed at a distance of 1 m from the end.

To give the device rigidity, you will need to properly fix the braces. Next, you should mount the cart, which can be built from a metal plate. For the trolley, you need to pick up plates for clamping and gaskets. These details will be responsible for ensuring the smooth movement of the device. It is important to ensure that the clearance is as small as possible. Gaskets should be fastened with bolts. It is recommended to install the trolley on rollers.

A metal profile with several streams is pressed on the motor shaft. The force from the motor through 2 belts is transmitted to the pulley, which is located on the cutting arm. The driven pulley transmits the force through the roller, which rotates on several bearings, to the star and to the chain.

The chain must be used to move the saw trolley and electric motor. The chain and belts on the tire sawmill with your own hands should be well tensioned. Elements must be fixed with several bolts and nuts. Additionally, it is recommended to install a special bolt on the chain tensioner. However, in some cases, the force of the pliers may be enough for a good chain tension. To facilitate its work, the element must be lubricated with engine oil.

Do-it-yourself tire sawmill construction is a complex process, but if there is a desire, even a person without relevant work experience can make such a structure.

How to use such a design?

Next, you need to install the sawmill. It must be fixed on the rails with several rollers for support. Rollers can be built from walk-behind tractor tensioners. It is worth remembering that the chain and the tire must be intended for longitudinal cutting. Every day you will have to change 3-4 chains.

In order to be able to determine the thickness of the sawn workpieces, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a vertical screw, in which, during rotation, the frame will move with the sawing device.

At first, the size must be set according to the ruler, and after a while it will be possible to set the thickness of the logs by the speed of the screw. At the beginning of work, the workpiece must be fixed according to the drawing. The effort with which a homemade sawmill moves along the rail will be small.

How to build a chain structure?

chain sawmill it is advisable to build with your own hands for those people who live in a private house and often perform repair work. First of all, you need to decide where the mini-sawmill will be located. This device is heavy, so it is not easy to carry it. It is recommended to place the structure in the workshop or in the yard.

A homemade chain sawmill is based on several metal channels. Height and length depend on the personal preferences of the owner. Metal blanks must be even. It is worth knowing that a do-it-yourself chain sawmill can also be made from a chainsaw. A drawing of such a design is shown.

At a distance of 1.2-1.5 m along the length of the parts, it is necessary to drill recesses with a diameter of 15 mm. The distance between the holes must be the same. Next, you need to prepare segments of water pipes of 2.5 cm each. Bolts are needed to connect the screeds to the channels. In parallel, it is necessary to assemble and fasten the racks, which consist of channels, tubes and corners. The number of racks may vary depending on the length of the device. For a structure with a length of 8 m, 4 racks must be prepared. The bed should be installed so that the end posts are placed at a distance of 1 m from the ends of the guide elements. To give the structure a horizontal position under the racks, it is necessary to dig the soil. Another option is to install the legs on slats or bars.

Next, on the carts, you need to fix the corners in which the electric motor will be placed. After that, the chain tension is performed. In this case, the actions will be the same as in the case of the construction busbar construction. It is not difficult to build a chain sawmill with your own hands, you just need to follow the sequence of actions.

DIY band sawmill

The manufacturing sequence will be as follows:

First of all, you need to choose a room. The recommended workshop area is 18 m².
The saw blade will remain stationary during operation. The log to be sawn is placed on a trolley that is moved manually. Therefore, you must first install a metal frame to secure the saw. Under it, rails from the corner should be laid, along which the trolley with the log will move.
Sawing will be done in a horizontal plane. You should think about how the height of the saw will change while cutting the log. To do this, the frame can be equipped with a special device that functions on the principle of a clamp.
Next, the base is made. Depending on the dimensions of the blanks, you can use a metal corner or a channel. It will be necessary to ensure a rigid fixation of this frame structure to the place of installation.
At the next stage, the wheels are attached to the bottom of the structure.

A budget structure of this type can be easily built with your own hands. To do everything correctly, you need to decide what type of sawmill will be built. If you follow the technology, you can make a sawmill with your own hands in a few days.