Insulate the roof from the inside. We properly insulate the roof of the house with our own hands, a detailed guide. How to choose the right material for the insulation of a gable roof

Arrangement of the roof is one of the most important stages in the construction of a building. Illiterate installation can lead to disastrous consequences. Proper insulation is especially important pitched roof that ensures the creation and maintenance optimal temperatures in the under-roof and attic space, as well as throughout the building.

Video: testing popular pitched roof insulation

Choosing the right insulation material

Any specialized store is ready to offer at least several types of roof insulation. You should choose the material that is best suited for the building being built. When choosing a heater, you should not be guided solely by the cost or availability of the coating, you should pay attention to:

• Moisture resistance. The less moisture the material can absorb, the better. Ideally, it should be waterproof. This is due to the fact that the insulation that has absorbed moisture, especially if it is wool, loses up to 60% of its thermal insulation properties, collapses and requires immediate replacement.
• Ease. Light weight will not become an additional load on the roof structure. You can determine the mass of a material by its density. The optimal value is considered to be within 50 kg / cu. m. for insulation from mineral wool and 14 kg/cu.m. for fiberglass.
• Fire safety. It is best that the coating does not ignite and does not release dangerous toxic substances into the air when exposed to high temperatures.
• High thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity coefficient must not be lower than 0.05 W/sq.m.
• Form stability. Such material will best adhere to the roof, will not form cracks or slide off the base, exposing its upper part.
• Environmental friendliness. The insulation should not emit harmful substances that manifest themselves as persistent unpleasant odors.
• High resistance to seasonal changes, temperature extremes, heat and frost.
• Durability. The roof does not apply to areas that are customary to repair very often. It is worth choosing a heater for a pitched roof, the manufacturer of which guarantees at least 50 years of flawless operation.

Thermal insulation material, in addition to thermal insulation properties, must have moisture resistance, resistance to temperature extremes, safety and durability.

All thermal insulation materials can be divided into three groups:

• Rigid or semi-rigid

They are slabs of glass or mineral wool of various thicknesses. Great for insulating roof slopes.

• Bulk

Available in the form of polystyrene balls, as well as small granules of slate or cork. Retain heat well. On average, one bag weighing about 100 kg is enough to insulate 1 sq. m. surface.

• Roll soft

They are produced in the form of rolls of mineral, stone or glass wool 8 m long. The width of the coating varies from 75 to 100 mm. As an option, you can find soft insulation in the form of plates on sale.

As practice shows, for a pitched roof, basalt wool is best suited as a heater, which is somewhat superior to glass in terms of thermal insulation properties.

Features of laying wool insulation on a pitched roof

It is known that synthetic construction wools themselves do not absorb moisture. However, the air, which is very abundant between the fibers of the material, is saturated with it very quickly. Therefore, any cotton wool necessarily requires additional protection from excessive moisture in the form of well-equipped vapor and waterproofing. Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in several stages:

• Waterproofing installation. Produced before the installation of the roof. On the outside, an insulating film is spread over the rafters. Its type is selected taking into account the materials of the roofing pie and project documentation. The film is laid with an overlap of about 100 mm across the slope. It is forbidden to mount the waterproofing in an interference fit, since in cold weather it can shrink and break in the fastening areas. The panels are laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per meter. The film is fastened with small galvanized nails with flat wide hats, or staples of a construction stapler. Between themselves, the panels are connected with adhesive tape.
• Lathing installation. It is installed over the waterproofing film. The structure is assembled from bars, the thickness of which should be more than 25 mm. Experts emphasize that the size of the bars is selected depending on the size of the ventilation gap, which must be present in the under-roof space. The crate is fastened with corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws. It is best to make holes in the bars in advance so as not to spoil the waterproofing. To equip the insulation with additional protection from getting wet, the waterproofing is attached not to the rafters, but to the crate. In this case, a counter-lattice is attached over the film, on which the roofing material is mounted. Thus, two ventilation gaps are formed at once: one between the film and the roof, and the other between the insulation and the film, which provides the maximum possible protection against the formation of condensate.
• Roofing material. Produced on a crate. And most coatings can be attached directly to the crate, for others, such as soft roofing, you will first need to lay sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard and only mount the roofing material on top of them.
• Fixing the heater. Produced from the inside of the roof between the rafters. Before laying, it is recommended to unpack the cotton wool and leave it to "lie down" so that it takes its original shape, for about 20 minutes. After that, the material is cut in accordance with the distance between the rafters. It should be 20-30 mm less than the width of the insulation sheet, which will make it possible to fix the material "by surprise". To do this, a canvas of cotton wool is pushed into the space between the rafters. In order to straighten the edges of the sheet, you need to press on its middle. The heater springs and straightens. In the guides on how to insulate a pitched roof, you can find recommendations that it is best to choose the pitch of the rafter legs, given the width of the insulation. This will save you money, time and make installation easier.
• Installation of vapor barrier. From the inside of the room, a vapor barrier film is spread over the insulation. It is necessary to protect the insulation from steam, which can penetrate into the wool from the living room. The insulation is fastened with staples of a construction stapler directly to the rafters.

The vapor barrier film does not allow moisture to pass from the inside of the room into the insulation

• Lathing installation. Final stage- installation of the crate, to which finishing materials will subsequently be fixed.

It should be noted that this method of roof insulation is suitable for residential attic or attic spaces. If you do not plan to live in them, only the floor of the attic is insulated, carefully isolating the ceiling.

How to avoid the most common installation mistakes

Illiterate work on roof insulation leads to serious errors that subsequently affect the operation of the building:

• Wrong choice of insulating films. You should carefully study the vapor permeability of both hydro and vapor barrier. If the second value is less than the first, then during the cold season, condensate will inevitably accumulate inside the roofing pie in conditions of insufficient air exchange.
• Large sag of waterproofing film. If the recommended gap between the heat and waterproofing is not observed, the insulation will get wet. The gap must be equal to the height of the bars of the counter-lattice, but not less than 20 mm. Insulating materials with low vapor permeability can be mounted directly on the insulation.
• Illiterate installation of insulation from the inside of the room. Thermal insulation materials are not recommended to be mounted close to the waterproofing film, since the ventilation gap is destroyed in this way. However, in practice, when installing panels in the inter-rafter space, they can be laid too deep. At the same time, for rigid materials, the edges of the plates begin to crumble and break, which leads to the formation of cold bridges.

It is impossible to mount the insulation close to the waterproofing; ventilation gaps must be present.

Pitched roof insulation is a responsible undertaking. Of course, you can do it yourself, but before that, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the process by reading the installation instructions in building guides or on specialized sites. You can also entrust the insulation to specialists who will professionally cope with complex work.

For a long time in Rus', there were no problems with roof insulation at all: straw was knitted or reed was dried, and that’s it - the roof of the house was reliably protected from both rain and cold. But modern coatings do not have heat-insulating properties at all, and with all the development of progress, up to 30% of all heat flows through such a roof.

Therefore, if you do not want to warm the atmosphere, study the roof insulation from the inside in detail - in this article we will reveal all the points!

Conventionally, roof insulation in the construction world is divided into attic, when the roof slopes are insulated, and attic, when the ceiling is thermally insulated.

Like this? We can say that attics also have their own attic - this is a ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the laid roofing. The fact is that according to all the laws of physics, heat always rises and looks for its way out into the atmosphere. It passes both through the insulation and through the vapor barrier, and together with water vapor. And then, in the eaves plumb line, outside air is drawn in, which passes to the ridge and along the way picks up with it both vapors and excess heat. Through aerators or the same skate, all this is safely removed and does not cause any problems.

Those. in an ordinary, unused roof, the attic occupies the entire space from the ridge to the attic floor, and in the attic, the attic is just a small space under the slopes between the insulation and the roofing. And in the insulation of both, the type of roof is its own approach, which we will now study.

Cold roof insulation technology

If your roof is cold, then the heat-insulating layer should not be on the slopes, but on the floor of the attic. It is here that it stops the heat flow coming from below and prevents the cold from the roof from descending into the lower living space. As a result, the temperature in the attic is kept within + 1-2 degrees, the roofing material is not heated. In fact, such an attic serves as a necessary air gap between the living rooms of the house and the thin roof slab.

All rolled, slab and loose heaters are suitable for attic flooring. Because the overlap of the slope does not have, it does not have any special requirements for the heat-insulating material used: nothing will crumble and will not be exposed.

Pay attention to the fact that after the roof is insulated, properly organized ventilation remains in it: there must be dormer windows opposite each other, ventilation ridges and aerators, and in the cornices - round-the-clock access for outside air suction. As a result, the temperature in a non-residential attic should be as close as possible to the street temperature, and the living space is already separated from it below - competent thermal insulation of the floor.

Now let's take a closer look at the insulation of a cold roof.

Warming with mineral wool

When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, first of all, pay attention to the distance between the slats or logs - it should be slightly less than a roll or mat of insulation.

Usually the thermal insulation of the internal space of the roof is complicated uneven surface attic floors, differences in its height, a large number of slats and bars, not to mention ventilation pipes and electrical wiring:

Ecowool insulation

If you want the house to breathe and the steam to easily go up, then insulate the attic floor with modern ecowool:

Insulation with blown wool

IN Lately blowing - roof insulation with blown wool is becoming more and more popular. The Japanese "insulation" Esbro-Vul II is used here, which does not emit dust, and therefore does not create problems. And the blowing method itself is actually quite simple:

• Step 1. We put a vertical ruler on the floor and mark the required height for spraying mineral wool.
• Step 2. Apply insulation in an even layer to the desired level.
• Step 3. We lay the insulation so tightly that one cubic meter accounted for his 25 kg weight.

Note that this type of insulation in Japan is the most popular, and has already found many supporters in Russia.

Glass wool insulation

And finally, glass wool - if you do not use the attic at all. The fact is that even glass wool closed under the crate sometimes causes irritation of the ENT organs. Why do you have to wear a respirator and goggles when working with it:

Insulation with sawdust

When insulating the roof with sawdust, follow these instructions:

• Step 1. First of all, you need to protect the wooden structure. To do this, we first apply an antiseptic composition, then - fire-bioprotective mixtures, and on top - water repellents.
• Step 2. The next step is to put a substrate (you can use cardboard) and close the seams and cracks, if any, with foam (large) or sealant (small). At the end, we cut the foam that has come out and equalize it with the beams.
• Step 3. Now we fill up the sawdust, in two layers: first, a larger fraction, as well as chips, and then a fine one, so that dust does not form in the room.
• Step 4. But so that rodents do not start on the floor of the attic, in addition to sawdust, mix dry lime and small broken glass.

Warm roof technology

Mansard roof is special design. There is also cold attic, only it is very small, because the insulated attic ceiling is almost closely drawn to it with the help of an additional crate. In fact, there is only space for ventilation, and no more. And ventilation serves to ensure that the heat from the attic does not touch the roofing, on which the snow in winter should remain as a heat insulator, and not melt.

Here is a vivid example of the most standard situation of improper attic insulation: they install the cheapest 15 cm rafters, put fluffy mineral wool in two layers of 5 cm each and cover it all with roofing. Ventilation - only 5 cm, without inflow and exit, because There was no expert around to advise. As a result, in summer - unbearable heat, from which even air conditioners do not save, and in winter - generous frost on the roof. And all because street air is heated most of all in this scheme. In other words, the very small attic that we talked about must be, and far from 5 cm.

And especially carefully in such a roof you need to think over the vapor barrier:

And further. The material for the manufacture of rafters is always designed for a certain weight. So, a roof under soft tiles can also be built from drywall profiles, only it cannot be insulated with heavy basalt wool. Also, the mansard roof needs good forced ventilation so that the insulation does not rot and deteriorate. Therefore, carefully read all the points of the master classes prepared by us:

Warming with mineral wool

Follow this simple guide:

• Step 1. We install hydro and wind protection. If possible, use modern membranes - they are stronger and more durable. In any case, fasten the material with an overlap, and glue all the joints with construction tape.
• Step 2. Now we measure the distance between adjacent rafters.
• Step 3. Using a regular or clerical knife, we easily cut the insulation into the desired pieces and insert it between the rafters.
• Step 4. We install an additional crate between the membrane and the inner lining.

Please note that you need to fasten the vapor barrier membrane with the smooth side to the insulation, and the fleecy side already inside the room.

If the distance between the beams is not more than 60 centimeters, it will be more convenient for you to use square insulation mats:

• Step 1 Inside, under the rafters, it is desirable to finish off the rough crate - so that the insulation has something to rest on. Make the distance between the bars about 20-30 cm. Ordinary uncut wood with medium-sized nails is quite suitable for this purpose, it is only important that the bars are of the same thickness.
• Step 2. After installing the rough crate inside the structure, remove all dust and dirt with a construction vacuum cleaner.
• Step 3. Next, we process everything wooden special tool from fungus, rot and mold. Just use for this purpose not a spray gun, which is less effective, but an ordinary paint brush. With its help, you can achieve deep penetration of the product into the wood, and this is important.
• Step 4. Let the product completely absorb and dry for two to three days.

As a result, all your sheets should lie tightly - a little denser than you need at first glance. This is the only way to avoid the presence of cracks and subsequent freezing of the roof.

And one more thing: ordinary mineral wool boards are not very suitable for insulating roof slopes, because. they do not hold well between the rafters, but the pediments can be insulated with them.

Glass wool insulation

To insulate the roof slopes, get the best glass wool from well-known manufacturers. Such glass wool practically does not contain dangerous glass dust, which most of all annoys workers. Also, even after laying, it does not emit harmful substances, which is even confirmed by the Finnish Institute of Health. After all, it is one thing to throw this “thorn” on the floor of an unused attic, and another thing to cover it with clapboard in a billiard room or private office on the attic floor.

Combined insulation

If desired and expedient, it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside with two different types of heaters at the same time. But one important point must be taken into account - vapor permeability. The fact is that when choosing different heaters for an effective combination, we usually only summarize their heat-insulating properties. But their steam capacity is completely different!

And, if, for example, you put mineral wool down during insulation, and then foam plastic on top, then the water vapor that got into the cotton wool will begin to tend to the colder part of the roof and bury itself in an absolutely non-breathable foam plastic. As a result, all the insulation will simply suffocate and “please” with mold. But on the contrary, it is possible: first we put polystyrene on the bottom of the rafters, and on it already - mineral wool. If some steam passes through the vapor barrier and the gaps between the foam plates, it will easily overcome the mineral wool and enter the ventilation duct. Therefore, there is this rule: upper layer insulation should always have high vapor permeability and thermal conductivity.

And, finally, if a warm roof is to be used as a sauna or an additional bathroom, the insulation and roofing cake in it must be thought out especially carefully.

Insulation of the roof of the house is an important stage in the construction or overhaul of the roof. The choice of technology for installing a heat-insulating layer depends on the configuration of the roof, the type of insulation and the requirements that apply to the room located directly under the roof.

The need for roof insulation

How to insulate the roof to significantly reduce heat loss at home? First of all, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and strictly adhere to the installation technology. A high-quality insulated roof increases the thermal efficiency of the house by 15%, and allows you to turn the attic into a room suitable for year-round use.

The highest requirements are placed on the insulation of the roof of the residential attic of houses located in areas with cold winters. The roofing cake of summer attics or exploited attics may include a thinner layer of thermal insulation. The roof, under which an unused attic is located, is usually not insulated - thermal insulation is mounted on the floor of the attic or the ceiling of residential premises. An uninsulated non-residential attic is well ventilated, which prevents the wooden elements of the roof frame from rotting.

When installing pitched and flat roofs, different ways roof insulation.

Flat roof insulation

How to make an insulated roof during installation flat roof? It should be noted that a flat roof can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside.

The composition of the flat roof pie includes:

• vapor barrier;
• heat insulator;
• waterproofing layer of rolled material;
• bulk layer (drainage + cement-sand mixture).

External insulation is most conveniently performed using mineral basalt wool. You can also use expanded polystyrene and other rigid insulation. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that polymeric heaters cannot be used when installing roofing with high fire safety requirements.

Pitched roof insulation

The roofing pie of a pitched roof is made with insulation along the rafters. It is important to figure out how to properly insulate the roof of the house in order to prevent mistakes that will eventually lead to damage. wooden structures.

The most popular insulation in private housing construction is mineral wool. It is an easy-to-install non-combustible material that can be purchased at a low price. But the very structure of cotton wool contributes to the accumulation of moisture, which causes a significant decrease in the thermal insulation properties of the material, and also provokes decay of the elements over time. truss system. Thus, when creating insulation, it is important to provide proper ventilation and steam and waterproofing roofing cake.

Installation of a pitched roof heat insulator is carried out from the side of the attic during the construction or repair of the roof. If repair work is underway, before laying the insulation, it is necessary to check the condition of the rafters - rotting elements must be replaced with new ones. It is also worth treating all wooden structures with a fire-retardant composition.

Pitched Roof Pie Includes:

• finishing roofing;
• hydrobarrier (layer of waterproofing material);
• heat insulator;
• vapor barrier;
• interior decoration (optional).

Proper roof insulation requires high-quality air exchange, for which it is necessary to create air gaps between:

• roofing waterproofing and roofing;
• insulation and hydrobarrier;
• vapor barrier and inner lining (if provided).

Air circulation (free inflow and removal) is provided by special air ducts, one of which must be located in the roof overhang, and the second - under the ridge.

Materials for thermal insulation of a pitched roof

Roof insulation technology involves the use of various materials. The most popular heat insulators include mineral wool and glass wool (in slabs or rolls), plate polymer materials - polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene. The principles of their installation are similar, but it is worth noting that it is much easier and more convenient to mount plate material.

As a waterproofing, roofing material or a waterproofing membrane is usually used, impervious to water, but capable of removing moisture from the insulation. The vapor barrier can be made from:

• roofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• parchment;
• foil materials laid with foil towards the attic.

To create a roofing cake with high functional characteristics, it is recommended to use a special vapor barrier membrane to create a vapor barrier: it removes condensate outward from the insulation and does not let steam and moisture into the roofing cake.

Stages of work on the insulation of pitched roofs

The scheme of roof insulation is quite simple. First of all, you need to measure the distance between the rafters. Cotton wool insulation boards should be cut according to the results obtained, adding 1 centimeter. This will allow you to fix the heat insulator by surprise between the rafters. This stage of work is greatly simplified if the roofing system is initially designed and installed for the use of plate heaters of a certain width.

If there is no waterproofing between the rafters and the already installed roofing, the hydro-barrier must first be fixed. The membrane should envelop the rafters, it is most convenient to fix it with a construction stapler to the rafters themselves and to the roofing sheathing in the openings between them. The waterproofing must be led under the overhang at the bottom of the roof to ensure the removal of moisture. It should be borne in mind that with this method of attaching the hydrobarrier, the insulation has to be mounted without the necessary air gap. For this reason, it is recommended to use a superdiffusion membrane as a waterproofing.

If there is a waterproofing layer under the roofing, nails are stuffed onto the rafters in increments of about 10 cm. The nails should be located at a distance of 3-5 cm from the waterproofing layer. Between the nails it is necessary to stretch the polyethylene thread or cord, knocking them to the end. This will help create an air gap between the hydrobarrier and the insulation. If the heat insulator is planned to be fixed with a cord, and not with a sheathing for the inner lining, nails must also be stuffed along the outer edge of the rafters.

If, when determining how to insulate the roof of the house, a cotton slab insulation was chosen, then the prepared elements must be slightly squeezed and inserted between the rafters. When using stiffer foam boards and similar materials, it is important that they are accurately sized so that the boards fit snugly into the opening. Warming is recommended to be carried out in two layers. If it is necessary to mount in the opening not solid sheets, but narrower fragments, joining them in length or width, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the second layer do not coincide with the joints of the first. The heat insulator should not protrude beyond the plane of the rafter legs. If the rafters are not wide enough to mount two layers of insulation, an additional beam is nailed to them.

The heat insulator is fixed between the rafters with a stretched cord fixed on pre-stuffed nails. Or, as a fastener, a crate of slats is used, designed for mounting the interior cladding of the room. The slats are nailed to the rafters in increments of 30-40 cm. In this case, the vapor barrier is fastened with a stapler to the rafters before the lathing is installed: the thickness of the slats allows you to create the necessary air gap between the vapor barrier and the sheathing.

When installing a vapor barrier Special attention given to the tightness of the layer. The panel is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, the joints should be glued with adhesive tape in two layers. It is necessary to perform the installation of a vapor barrier around the chimney and at the junctions with the walls with the highest quality. At the final stage, the cladding is installed using wood-containing or gypsum boards.

How to insulate the roof of a house correctly: video, insulation scheme, methods

Find out how to properly insulate your roof. Watch the video on how to insulate the roof of a house using various schemes, methods and types of insulation

How to insulate the roof with your own hands

When building a private house, attention should be paid not only to the thermal protection of walls and floors, but also to the insulation of roof structures. The temperature and humidity conditions of the room, and even the service life of structures, depend on the literacy of roof insulation measures. Work on the installation of thermal insulation material can be done by hand.

The need for insulation

Everyone knows from the school physics course that heated air rises. If there is no thermal insulation, nothing prevents him from leaving the building. Because of this phenomenon, a large amount of heat loss occurs precisely through the roof or attic floors. Lack of adequate protection against cold and warm air loss can lead to the following problems:

• lowering the temperature in the room;
• increased heating costs in winter;
• condensation on the inner surface of the roof;
• the appearance of mold or fungus on the elements of the roof;
• destruction or damage to load-bearing structures, and bringing the house into disrepair.

The insulation of roof structures, as well as the insulation of walls and floors during the construction of multi-apartment residential buildings, must be checked by state or private expertise at the design stage. The thermal insulation of a private cottage completely depends on the future owner, no one checks its availability and a competent choice, but this does not lose its importance.

Warming methods

Do-it-yourself roof insulation largely depends on the design of the roof. There are two types of roofs: flat and pitched. Most often, flat roofs are used for the construction multi-storey buildings, but it is possible to use in the construction of a private cottage. Flat roofs can be constructed in two ways:

In the inversion, the order of the layers has been changed. This technology is used in the arrangement of the exploited roof. As a material for insulation in both cases can be used:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool (in slabs);
• expanded clay.

The latter is quite cheap, but has lower heat-shielding characteristics. In most cases, roof insulation is applied from the outside. This allows you to simplify the installation process and make competent protection from the cold from the point of view of thermal engineering.

The scheme of laying insulation between the rafters

It is necessary to remember the strength of the material; additional measures will also be required to protect the insulation from mechanical damage.

When building a private house, the option with a pitched roof is most often used. It allows you to equip the attic or attic and has a more attractive appearance. Roof insulation wooden house or any other can be done in several ways:

• laying material between the rafters (the most common);
• laying insulation over the rafters;
• fastening from the bottom of the rafters.

Material selection

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house or a building made of other materials is carried out using the following materials:

Rarely used materials include:

• expanded clay;
• sawdust.

Scheme of roof insulation with mineral wool

Bulk materials are used to protect against the cold outside. They have an attractive price, but are quite difficult to install, so they are not widely used. It is better to use more modern technologies.

In general, materials for thermal protection measures must meet the following requirements:

• safety, no harmful effects on humans;
• environmental friendliness;
• small weight to prevent excessive loads on the truss system;
• resistance to crushing and sagging, sufficient strength and rigidity;
• soundproofing characteristics (especially important when using metal roofing);
• resistance to fire (especially important for wooden construction);
• if possible, good vapor permeability, which will provide additional ventilation of the room;
• good thermal performance.

One of the most important characteristics of a material is its thermal conductivity. This value must be specified by the manufacturer. The lower the value, the smaller the thickness of the insulation will be needed. In the absence of constraint in funds, it is better to choose materials such as mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The values ​​of their thermal conductivity depend on the manufacturer and are in the range of 0.03-0.04 W / (m2*ᵒС).

Thickness calculation

It is important not only to choose the right material for insulation, but also to correctly calculate its thickness. Insufficient will lead to condensation, and excessive indicates an irrational expenditure of funds. You can select the value "by eye" based on general recommendations, for example, regardless of the type of roof (pitched or flat), for insulation with mineral wool or polystyrene foam, a layer thickness of 150-200 mm is required.

It is best to perform a full-fledged heat engineering calculation that takes into account modern comfort requirements and allows you to find the perfect balance of cost and quality. For a specialist, the implementation of such a calculation is not difficult. A person far from construction can use examples of calculations or the Teremok program, which is freely available and is quite simple and understandable.

Competent calculations at the design stage are aimed at saving the budget and ensuring the reliability of thermal protection.

Their implementation will not take a large number time, but will avoid overspending during construction and additional costs for repairs during operation.

Flat roof insulation process

Depending on the type of roof, the insulation technology will be different. For flat roofs, the following order of layers is usually observed:

• load-bearing structure (most often reinforced concrete pavement);
• vapor barrier layer;
• thermal insulation material;
• cement-sand screed (reinforced for non-durable materials);
• waterproofing carpet, which acts as a topcoat.

If absolutely necessary, you can work from the inside of the room, but this method has several disadvantages:

• reducing the height of the room;
• transfer of the dew point inside the structure;
• inconvenience of work.

Thermal protection of a pitched roof

Before you properly insulate the roof of the house, you need to understand the order of the work. In the vast majority of cases, pitched roofs are insulated between the rafters. Warming the roof from the inside with your own hands is quite a feasible task. It is important to follow the correct order of laying materials from the bottom up:

• interior decoration;
• bottom crate;
• vapor barrier;
• rafters with insulation between them;
• waterproofing;
• wind protection;
• crate;
• roofing material.

If the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the rafter legs, counter rails are installed. It is better to use modern diffusion membranes as wind protection and waterproofing.

Competent insulation, regardless of the type of roof, requires a careful approach. To avoid problems during operation, it is necessary to choose the right thickness of the insulation, choose a reliable manufacturer and follow the installation technology. The fulfillment of these conditions will allow the roof to serve for a long time and contribute to the preservation of the normal temperature and humidity conditions in the building.

We insulate the roof correctly: how to avoid mistakes

Roof insulation will create heat in the house. How and what is better to insulate the roof of a private house, we will describe in detail in this article.

How to properly insulate the roof of a house: key points, methods

One of the main conditions affecting comfort in a house or cottage is a warm, reliable and durable roof. It should retain heat well, protect from moisture, protect from wind. When solving such a problem as insulating a roof, one should not save on the materials used. The roof is exposed to harsh conditions, experiencing large temperature fluctuations, the influence of precipitation, significant physical exertion under the influence of wind.

The main points of roof insulation

Roof insulation is one of the important stages of building insulation as a whole. It is the final structure of the building that performs the main function of protecting the interior from adverse external influences. High-quality thermal insulation of the roof will provide tangible savings in money during the further operation of the dwelling, reducing heating costs. After all, about 20-30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.

When deciding how to properly insulate the roof of a house, first of all, you should decide on the function of the attic space. If the attic is not planned to be made into a living room, then it is not necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. In this situation, only the attic floor should be well insulated in order to protect the premises of the uppermost floor from the effects of cold and heat loss. In a situation where a residential attic will be arranged in the attic, roof insulation from the inside is a must.

The method of performing work also depends on the design of the roof and the stage at which insulation is performed. The design can be pitched or flat, each of them has its own characteristics when performing work. When choosing a method, one should take into account the current stage of construction, since it is preferable to insulate the roof of the house at the design stage. The technology for performing work is the same for both a wooden building and a brick one.

It should be noted that before you insulate the roof of a wooden house, you need to carefully examine all the details of the roof, rafters for dampness, signs of decay and various damage. Wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic, badly damaged areas must be replaced. Electrical wiring elements located under the roof also require careful checking.

Materials for warming the roof of the house

The modern market offers a huge selection of materials for insulation, the most common include fiberglass and polystyrene boards, foam concrete, foamed glass, mineral wool boards. Each type of insulation is characterized by different thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, strength and other properties. Mineral wool boards have been widely used, which compare favorably with other heaters in terms of their quality characteristics. Their use is acceptable for most types of roofs.

Mineral wool boards are positioned as a fire-resistant material with low thermal conductivity, good waterproofing and noise-absorbing properties. They practically do not deform during operation.

How to insulate a flat roof

To insulate a flat roof, two methods are used:

• The principle of a rolling ceiling - the insulation is laid on top;
• The principle of a false ceiling - insulation is knocked out from the inner surface of the ceiling.

Performing insulation work from the outside is a simpler and more convenient option. Several key points should be taken into account, among which it is necessary to highlight the ability of the supporting structure to withstand the weight of the roofing material and insulation. It is possible that insulation according to the principle of a rolling ceiling will be enough to achieve comfortable living conditions in the house. Priority work on this method is more appropriate under the circumstances. The operation of the premises in the cold season will allow us to conclude whether it is worth doing insulation from the inside, based on the principle of a false ceiling.

For insulation outside the roof, which has a flat shape, it is better to use basalt mineral wool. The choice of high-quality materials is especially important at this stage, since it is impossible to properly insulate the roof without this component.

Phased insulation of a flat roof occurs in the following sequence:

• With the help of a vapor barrier film, a layer is laid that serves as a vapor barrier;
• A layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool boards is arranged on top of the film;
• Waterproofing is laid in the form of a rolled coating of roofing material, synthetic materials;
• Laying bulk material - insulation.

Important! If the work is carried out during the period of precipitation, then it should be noted that the waterproofing coating must be immediately laid on the insulation, not allowing the latter to become covered with water, snow, ice. For large areas, measures must be taken to prevent precipitation from falling onto the roof surface.

Before starting work on the insulation of the roof, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of dust and debris. If there are large irregularities, it may need to be leveled. Thermal insulation boards are glued with special cold mastic or glue. To achieve uniformity of the coating, it is necessary to lay mineral wool with half-overlapping of the seams. Laying an additional layer of slabs is allowed to improve thermal insulation, while the slabs are arranged "in a run", and the joints are glued with adhesive tape. The use of this technology avoids the appearance of "cold bridges".

Recently, the fire method of laying waterproofing has become widespread. Laying is done on mineral wool slabs cement-sand screed more than three centimeters thick. After the concrete has become strong, cleaning is carried out working surface from dirt and excess influx. The waterproofing carpet is glued under short-term exposure to fire, without changing its protective properties. The laying of the material is carried out with an overlap of ten centimeters, which ensures the strength and tightness of the coating.

How to insulate a pitched structure

The pitched roof of houses or cottages often serves as the basis for creating an attic, which allows you to get additional square meters of living space. More stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of the attic from the inside.

The design of the insulated roof is called the “roofing pie” due to the fact that it consists of several layers: a ventilation circuit under the coating, a waterproofing layer, another ventilation circuit (not always arranged), a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier.

Waterproofing helps protect your home from moisture. When water gets under the roof, the insulation begins to lose its properties, wood structures begin to rot. In addition, the air under an insulated roof and outside can differ significantly, the temperature difference causes condensation of moisture in the air on cold structures. Condensation can also occur inside the insulation, but the device of the ventilation circuits allows you to avoid this. Under the influence of supply air, water vapor is removed from under the roof without condensation. The waterproofing layer covers the construction logs and is attached to them with a stapler.

The presence of a ventilation circuit on the roof is a prerequisite for its functioning. The intake of fresh air must be arranged through a gap located on the overhang of the eaves, the exhaust is carried out through a ventilation device on the slope or ridge of the roof. It should be noted that all components of the structure must be ventilated. The ventilation device does not cause any particular problems for normal gable roofs. For roofs with intricate geometry, this task is faced with certain difficulties, since various obstacles prevent the free movement of air: ventilation shafts, a chimney, windows and other structural elements.

The next layer is thermal insulation. The main characteristics of the material that affect the quality of insulation work are thermal conductivity and rigidity. The material must keep its shape, not deform under the influence of environmental conditions.

A vapor barrier layer attached to the rafters is laid on the thermal insulation layer. As a material for its device, a building membrane film is usually used.

The final stage in the insulation of the roof is the finishing of the "roofing cake" from the inside. The finished surface should be sheathed with drywall or chipboard for further wallpapering or other finishing work.

Roof insulation is an important component of the construction process, allowing you to achieve comfortable living conditions. Competent performance of work will ensure an increase in the period of flawless operation of the entire roof structure, eliminating unnecessary repairs.

How to properly insulate the roof of a house

Roof insulation technology. Tips and tricks on how to properly insulate flat and pitched roofs.

How to insulate the roof of a house?

• Pitched roof features
• Step-by-step instruction
• Flat roof and the nuances of working with it

Each owner is concerned about the issue of economical consumption of resources for heating a private house. You can partially solve the problem by performing the roof insulation procedure. Thus, it is possible to reduce heat loss by up to 15%. The complexity and result of the work largely depends on how to insulate the roof and what its design is.

If the attic space is not used, then ceiling insulation is a sufficient measure to insulate the room.

If the attic is not planned to be used, you can limit yourself to insulating the ceiling of the house. The roof itself is insulated if the room under it will be used.

Pitched roof features

The scheme of insulation of a pitched roof.

Before insulating the roof, it is important to find out exactly how this task is performed in accordance with the type of roof. The pitched roof is insulated from the inside. In an old house, be sure to check the crate for the presence of rotten or damp boards. Damaged boards must be replaced with fresh ones, after which all wooden frame elements should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting impregnation.

To make an insulated roof follows from several layers. The presence of the following materials is mandatory: waterproofing, insulation layer and vapor barrier. On request or need, interior decoration is carried out. Between the roof and the insulation, an air “cushion” should be organized, and there should also be a space between the waterproofing and the insulation. This is necessary for the free removal of the resulting moisture. If a decorative finish is planned from lining or chipboard, it is necessary to provide an air gap in front of these layers.

Ensuring air circulation when insulating a pitched roof.

Before insulating the roof, two holes should be arranged between all layers to ensure free air circulation.

How to insulate the roof? To carry out work that is quite realistic to do on your own, you need the following materials:

1. Directly insulating material. Use of mineral wool or glass wool is allowed. The second is available in slabs or in the form of a roll, however, in order to make an insulated roof, it is optimal to use slabs that do not deform. In addition, you can use foam.
2. Roofing material can be taken as a waterproofing material. A film that protects the layers from water, but allows evaporation of the moisture formed inside, is also suitable for this task.
3. For vapor barrier, you can choose one of the materials: roofing material, plastic film, foil, glassine. The recommended option is a special membrane that protects the insulation layer from water and steam, but allows the removal of the resulting condensate.

After choosing the material for each of the layers and preparing the roof, work can begin.

Step-by-step instruction

Between the boards of the frame, blocks of heat-insulating material cut to the width are laid.

1. It is necessary to measure the distance between the rafters, as well as the thickness of the boards. Next - cut the plates of insulating material. At the same time, their width should be 1 cm more than the step between the rafters.
2. If there is no insulation layer between the roof and the frame, it must be laid so that it envelops the frame beams. The material is fixed with a stapler. Having laid it around the entire perimeter, you should bring the lower edges under the bevel to organize the flow of water. Further, the thermal insulation is laid tightly to the previous layer, without forming voids.
3. If there is already insulation under the roof, space should be provided between it and the insulation layer. For this purpose, nails are driven in between the rafters (after 3-5 cm from the waterproofing). Then a thread is fixed on them, after which the nails are driven in until they stop.
4. Fixation of the insulating material can be carried out with a cord. In this case, nails must be hammered along the edges of the frame.
5. The next step is the installation of insulation. Mineral wool is placed between the boards of the frame, while you need to press it lightly, in the future it will take desired shape. The foam is located in the cells between the elements of the frame. If necessary, two layers can be made. When laying slabs, do not match the joints of adjacent layers. It happens that the thickness of the frame boards is not designed for a double layer of insulation. Additional bars can save the situation.
6. Further, as after the previous layer, a thread or cord is pulled over the nails driven into the edges of the rafters. In addition to this method, fastening in the form of a crate of slats is used. They are nailed to the rafters with a distance of 30-40 cm.
7. The next task is to fix the vapor barrier. The canvas is overlapped by 10 cm. The joints of the layers must be sealed with adhesive tape or adhesive tape, and the insulation itself must be fixed with a stapler. It is important to qualitatively fix the vapor barrier at the intersection of the roof and the pipe. The service life of the insulation layer depends on how well this area is insulated.
8. In conclusion, you need to do the interior decoration of the roof in case you plan to organize an attic. Suitable chipboard, drywall or lining. It is important to maintain an air gap between the insulation and finishing material. This can be done using not a stapler, but pressed strips for fastening.

Flat roof and the nuances of working with it

This design involves insulation both from the inside and outside. Before insulating the roof inside, it is necessary to perform external insulation and check whether it is sufficient.

The outer layer is made of mineral wool.

Such a material has properties that are indispensable for insulation - it does not burn, it passes steam well, has low thermal conductivity and lasts a long time.

The scheme of thermal insulation of a flat roof.

An alternative material is styrofoam, but it is not good enough in fire resistance.

For external insulation, the following sequence of layers is assumed: vapor barrier, insulation material, waterproofing and bulk layer. Any type of waterproofing can be used roll material, for example - roofing material, and the bulk layer is made with expanded clay or a mixture of sand and cement.

An important criterion when choosing a material for external insulation is the strength of the supporting structure. You should make sure that the frame and floors are able to withstand the weight of both roofing materials and insulation. In this case, it is better to use a material that is not heavy in weight - polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The execution of work involves the following sequence of actions:

1. Cleaning and leveling the roof surface.
2. Laying a layer of vapor barrier.
3. Insulation boards are installed. Fastening is done with glue or mastic, and the seams and joints must be sealed.
4. Finally, waterproofing is installed. At the same time, it is also worth taking care of sealing the seams.

In the case when the external insulation of a flat roof is not enough, the roof should be insulated from the inside. To do this, wooden planks are screwed to the ceiling in increments of 40 cm. A foam polystyrene plate is glued to these planks using mastic or glue. Then the next one is screwed to the bar, on which the next plate is glued. Upon completion of the overlap of the entire ceiling, a plastic film is attached. You can perform further surface finishing.

When performing roofing work, it is important to observe safety precautions. With the right approach and following the technology, all work can be done independently.

How to properly insulate the roof of a house: analysis of the entire technology of work from A to Z

How to insulate the roof of a house one day and forget about it for at least 30 years? To no repairs, leaks or other problems? It's real! It is only necessary to design a roofing cake correctly, choose an eco-friendly insulation and do not forget about vapor barrier. And what and how to do, we have revealed in detail in our step-by-step master classes - study and apply, everything is simple!

So, the insulation of the roof of the house in detail!

Stage I. Design

The main factor affecting the performance of the roofing cake and its durability is the humidity regime. Ideally, of course, if there is no moisture in the roofing cake at all - in any form. But in reality, it is always there, especially when it comes to a residential building where they breathe, cook and iron.

And how protected the insulation will be in such an environment depends on how competently the roofing pie was designed and how technologically the roof of the residential building was insulated, because there are no such problems with water vapor during the construction of industrial buildings or outbuildings. Just think carefully about what kind of waterproofing you need, what kind of insulation is suitable and how to close it from moisture.

Stage II. Waterproofing

The first step is to purchase high-quality waterproofing for the roof. So, in the application of conventional waterproofing films and in the laying of a diffuse membrane, the principle is far from being the same. The steam released from the insulation settles in the form of condensate and is brought out with the help of ventilation air for both insulators, only with the following difference:

• If a conventional film serves as a waterproofing, steam accumulates in the form of condensation right on it! Those. in the space between the insulation and the film.
• But when using a super-diffuse membrane, steam condenses in the form of small drops directly on the membrane, but not from the side of the insulation, but from the side of the roofing.

And now, what do you think is better for roofing insulation - so that the drops hang directly above it, or are outside the dense waterproofing? Do not forget also that the air from forced ventilation is taken simply from the street, and it is humid (for example, during rain).

Especially all this concerns fashionable metal roofs. The fact is that metal is a cold material, and condensate forms especially willingly for us. And, if you do not carefully consider the ventilation system for the evaporation of these drops, insulation from the first year of life will cease to fulfill its main functions. In general, the principle is quite simple: a "breathing" waterproofing membrane removes excess moisture from the insulation to its surface and successfully gets rid of it along with the condensate formed under the roof. Here is an example of its installation:

But what absolutely cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake of a residential building is glassine, roofing material, simple polyethylene, dense wind protection and advertising banners. And it is best to use modern membranes as waterproofing, which have additional vapor permeability. Such a film additionally removes the accumulated moisture in the insulation up, thereby maintaining its dry state.

So, the first step to a durable and problem-free roof is a high-quality "smart" vapor barrier, breathable waterproofing that can remove excess vapor from the insulation, well-thought-out ventilation. As well as additional systems such as a flow guide (special fixture from Isover) and a roofing system like Paroc Air.

Stage III. Warming

So, at this stage, we select the appropriate insulation for the roof of your house.

Mineral wool: a classic of the genre

Here are the main advantages of insulating mineral wool boards:

• Good soundproofing.
• Fire resistance.
• Relatively light weight.
• No deformation even under heavy loads.
• Durability: service life - not less than 25 years.

Their installation is also not difficult:

It is especially convenient to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool:

If you purchased too thin insulation, then lay it in several layers, always with a joint offset of 20 cm each. It is clear that the more solid flooring we lay insulation, the less possible cold bridges we will have later.

Basalt wool: high environmental friendliness

Basalt insulation (a separate type of mineral wool) for the roof is produced with a thickness of 50-150 cm. Due to their porous structure, they hold heat well, they are difficult to get wet, and even when wet, moisture easily leaves without any damage.

True, basalt slabs have considerable weight and are not easy to work with:

Styrofoam: with extreme caution!

So, polystyrene foam, or polystyrene foam, is polyethylene foam, which is produced in the form of sheets up to 20 cm thick and can be of different density.

Not a single specialist will advise to insulate the roof of a residential building, especially a wooden one, with foam plastic. After all, in such a house, if the thermal insulation was done incorrectly, styrene constantly negatively affects the human respiratory tract, blood, causes headaches and other disorders of the nervous system. For example, in production shops where block foam is packed, many workers complain of a constant dry cough and frequent sore throats. In addition, foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam at a temperature of 80 ° C begin to melt and at the same time become toxic.

But at the same time, extruded polystyrene foam is the only type of thermal insulation that is officially recommended in the design of an inverted roof. All thanks to its resistance to moisture and valuable performance properties.

A good solution in terms of insulation can be the so-called sandwich panel, when mineral wool is placed between two steel sheets. Steam can no longer enter such a structure, and therefore there is no condensation and such a moisture-sensitive insulation retains its properties for a long time.

Backfill insulation: expanded clay, sawdust and foam ball

Infill insulation is popular to this day, although well-thought-out marketing of mineral wool boards is gradually replacing them. The main advantage of bulk insulation is that it can be mixed with almost any material, and even embedded directly into the structure. The most popular types of bulk insulation:

For a residential building, for example, expanded clay is one of the best options:

Vermiculite insulates the attic floor. This natural stone, which is mined to quarries. In terms of its properties, it is close to expanded clay, and is also good because it absorbs odors. For the attic - a significant plus, you see! A foam ball is individually frozen pores of expanded polystyrene. Usually it is mixed with special solutions.

But how to properly insulate the inside of the roof of the house with ordinary sawdust? They often insulate the floor of a non-residential attic by mixing shavings with cement. Here is the technology:

• Step 1. We interfere with the solution: 10 buckets of sawdust per 1 bucket of cement. You do not need to add much water, the main thing is that the mixture is only slightly moist. So, for dry sawdust, take ½ bucket of water, for rotten - just one bucket. First, pour 10 buckets of sawdust into the prepared container, then gradually water them with water from a watering can and mix all the time. Then we pour a bucket of cement into the sawdust and again knead everything thoroughly. In appearance, all this will look like shavings smeared in cement, but if you squeeze a little solution into a fist, it should not disintegrate, nor should it release water.
• Step 2. Now we lift this mixture into the attic and lay it out with a simple tamping with our feet. For insulation, 20 cm of such a layer will be enough.
• Step 3. When the mixture dries, the screed will be a solid layer that will not bend underfoot - just crunch a little.

And if you mix them with dry clay and fall asleep between the lags of the attic floor, then there will no longer be a need for a vapor barrier for the roof.

Clay is also suitable as a binder for sawdust:

Ecowool: excellent vapor permeability

The heat capacity of ecowool can be compared with mineral wool, and other indicators are also pleasing:

1. Fire class A. This material, due to special processing, is classified as difficult to ignite. Even in a fire, it does not support combustion and does not adversely affect the roof structure. As a result, with a strong flame, ecowool turns out just charcoal, which in turn does not allow the fire to spread and high temperature further.
2. The ability to "breathe", maintaining the exchange of air with the environment and withstanding any level of humidity. That is why special vapor barrier membranes are not needed for ecowool.
3. Preservation of properties even at high humidity - up to 23.5%, while other heaters in such conditions lose their thermal insulation by almost half.
4. biological stability. Ecowool is not affected by fungi or insects due to special processing brown.
5. soundproof qualities. Ecowool is a class 2 sound-absorbing material.

This is how the thermal insulation of an ecowool roof usually looks like:

PPU: durability and practicality

The main value of polyurethane foam is durability: 1% moisture in polyurethane foam will change the thermal conductivity of this material by less than 10%. And this is a little. Another feature of the PPU structure is that the cells have a cross-linked molecular wall structure that does not allow molecules larger than a water molecule to pass inside. For comparison: an oxygen molecule is twice as large.

But let's make a couple of points. According to the correct technology, PPU is not poured into the attic, but sprayed. Here the difference is as essential as putting out a fire or putting out a burning object. In addition, the best PPU is afraid of direct sunlight: for the experiment, you can leave a piece under the sun, covering it only with a sheet of metal, and after a few days you will find only a loose substance.

Just decide first whether you need internal thermal insulation, or external:

And the process itself is quite simple. First, the roof is covered from the inside with a 30-cm layer of low-density polyurethane foam coating, only 60-80 kg / m3, and on top - more dense, with a thickness of 5 to 15 mm. The average thickness of both layers is about 8 cm for the snowy Russian regions.

And now about safety: consider roof ventilation so that PPU particles do not enter the living space. After all, depending on many factors (temperature, UV rays, humidity), the walls of such cells are gradually expanded. Usually all this happens within 15-20 years, while according to world standards, the warranty period of thermal insulation should not be less than 25 years. The sprayed polyurethane foam is formed into cells with a temperature of 80-120C, and when cooled to normal room temperature, the cells with gas are partially discharged (and freon and a little CO2 are used as gas, the thermal conductivity of which is worse than that of air). And over the years, air diffusion in PPU continues.

Stage IV. vapor barrier

And finally, in no case do not skimp on the vapor barrier of the roofing cake in the house.

Separately, we note that the pressure of water vapor directly depends on the air temperature. So the warmer, the higher the pressure. Have you ever noticed blistering bubbles on someone's bituminous roofing? This is just the result overpressure which is under waterproofing. The same applies to heaters in a roofing cake: the more places there are accidental ingress of moisture, the worse the vapor barrier used and the higher the air temperature, the worse it is for the heater.

And fix the vapor barrier correctly:

• Step 1. Lay a vapor barrier between the rafters, at least 0.2 mm thick.
• Step 2. Fasten the vapor barrier to the rafters with a construction gun with staples, and seal the joints that we overlap with adhesive tape.
• Step 3. With the same tape, we additionally close the attachment points with brackets. Necessarily!

Have you done everything as we suggested? Now you can sleep peacefully!

How to properly insulate the roof of a house: an overview of roof insulation technology

Everything about proper insulation roofs of a residential building: selection of insulation, hydro and vapor barrier, useful tips. Video and photo instructions with a detailed analysis of all the work

In some cases, roof insulation from the inside is a prerequisite for a comfortable microclimate in the house. These include the conversion of a non-residential attic into a heated attic floor, as well as the replacement of roofing, such as slate, with metal tiles or corrugated board, on which condensation and frost easily form during temperature changes.

Roof ridge structure for insulation

Roof insulation from the inside is carried out using any suitable heat-insulating materials with one condition: they must provide waterproofing from the outside and vapor permeability from the inside. In other words, moisture from condensate should not enter the insulation layer, but at the same time water vapor should be successfully removed from the interior of the attic or attic space.

Principles of roof insulation from the inside

Fibrous insulation materials such as mineral wool are best suited for these purposes. Unlike insulation with foam plastic, foam plastic or polyurethane foam, they conduct water vapor well, and the direction of water vapor removal from the inside to the outside is ensured by using special membrane films.

Moisture removal is necessary not only to reduce humidity in attic room. Fibrous insulation, when wet, lose some of their heat-insulating properties, wrinkle and deform. Therefore, when insulating the roof from the inside, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of layers of the so-called “pie”.

The first layer on the inside is usually a decorative finish, it can be any material: lining, drywall, plywood. Often it also plays the role of a filing that provides support for the insulation. Next, you need a small ventilation gap of 2-3 cm, which provides free air circulation.

The next layer is a vapor-permeable membrane, and the direction of vapor removal should be directed towards the insulation. The insulation itself must be of sufficient thickness for good thermal insulation, at least 3 cm. For a residential attic floor, a layer of insulation from 10 cm is usually laid.

A vapor-permeable waterproofing film with windproof properties is placed on the insulation, while the direction of steam removal should be directed out of the insulation.

Thus, the “heat-insulating cake” protects against the penetration of moisture into the insulation from the outside, but does an excellent job of removing water vapor from the room, which ensures comfortable humidity.

Roof insulation layers

Roof insulation technology

1. Insulation of the roof from the inside begins with the laying of a waterproofing layer. It is more convenient to do this at the stage of covering the roof with roofing materials. Lay it perpendicular to the rafter legs with a slight sag, smooth side up.

   Strips of material are glued with mounting tape so as to exclude cracks and gaps. After that, counter-rails from a 50 mm bar are stuffed onto the rafter legs, and a planed board crate is placed on the bar. Roofing is laid on the board.

   In the case of insulating an already finished roof, the waterproofing is fixed under the rafters using a construction stapler, carefully gluing the attachment points with adhesive tape.

   The rafters must first be treated with an antiseptic, because with this method of fastening, their ventilation is disturbed and rotting becomes possible.

   Laying a waterproofing layer

2. Heat-insulating mats of the selected thickness are laid between the rafters by surprise or with the help of a rough filing. As a filing, you can use thin slats or strong twine, fixed to the rafters with nails. Mats should fill the entire space between the rafters, if necessary, they are cut with a sharp knife. If several layers of mats are laid to give the insulation layer the desired thickness, then the joints of the upper layer completely overlap the lower one. In this case, the lower layer of insulation is placed with a shift or perpendicularly.

   Laying thermal insulation mats on the roof

3. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of the insulation. The film has a smooth surface on one side - it is placed towards the insulation. The rough surface of the film easily absorbs moisture vapor, it should be directed towards the room. Proper laying of the vapor barrier is very important, because the throughput of the film is directed only in one direction, and if it is laid in the opposite direction, condensation will form on the surface. The film is fixed with a stapler, gluing the joints and attachment points.

   Clapboard roof sheathing

4. Guide bars or a profile are attached to the rafters over the vapor barrier, on which the selected inner lining. If the attic finish is not planned, it is possible to make a filing from an edged board with a gap of 5-10 cm, the board is pre-treated with an antiseptic.

We insulate the roof with foam insulation

There are other ways to insulate the roof, for example, the popular method of spraying foam insulation, such as polyurethane foam. For this, no special preparation is required, but the roof lathing is made solid and covered with an antiseptic.

For spraying polyurethane foam, a special installation is required that supplies carbon dioxide under pressure, so it is most often impossible to do it yourself.

To insulate the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to call specialists who will apply a layer of foam of the required thickness to the entire attic space. After expansion and drying, the foam forms a seamless and waterproof layer with low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of this method include its vapor impermeability, therefore, when insulating the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam in a residential attic floor, it is necessary to equip a forced exhaust to remove excess moisture.

Insulation with foam insulation

Thermal insulation of the roof will save up to 25% of heat, and on metal roofs eliminates the formation of ice and condensate, which will extend their service life. If there are living rooms in the attic floor, the insulation layer should be selected in accordance with the heat engineering calculation.

Source: //StroyVopros.net/kryisha/uteplenie-kryishi-iznutri.html

How to insulate the roof from the inside, including types of material with a description and characteristics, as well as methods of work

A house with an insulated roof is always comfortable and requires less energy for heating than buildings with a roof without thermal insulation. Warming the structure from the inside allows you to provide an optimal microclimate in the premises, but for this it is important to choose quality materials and arrangement methods.

Characteristics of insulation options

Arrangement of a heat-insulating layer from the inside of the roof, that is, from the side of the attic, is possible both at the construction stage and with the finished roof. Of particular importance is the variant of the material used for insulation.

Manufacturers produce a variety of structures that differ in characteristics, method of application, cost and features of operation.

To achieve a high level of thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the properties of materials and choose the best one that meets climatic conditions.

The insulation is mounted from the inside of the roof and therefore there is no need to disturb the structure of the roofing pie

The range of thermal insulators for roofing includes both classic and modern materials. The methods of their installation are different, but in any case, care and technology of work must be observed. This will allow you to qualitatively insulate the roof and eliminate the need for repairs for a long period.

Mineral wool: properties and types

Mineral wool is a good and affordable roof insulator. The material is presented in plates or rolls of different thickness, characterized by durability and practicality in operation.

Upon contact with the wood from which the roof rafters are made, mineral wool does not form chemical reactions and does not contribute to the decay of the frame.

A high degree of sound insulation distinguishes this material from many others.

Mineral wool in slabs is convenient to use

The range of mineral insulation includes options with different characteristics. For thermal insulation of the roof, the material must have the following properties:

• the thickness of the mineral wool layer should be from 20 cm for the regions of the middle and colder strip of Russia;
• the service life of a quality structure is up to 50 years;
• density should be from 35 to 100 kg/m3;
• semi-rigid, but not loose or rigid mineral wool is suitable for the roof;
• thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.045–0.056 W / m2.

Mineral wool can have a reflective layer that enhances the properties of the material

To ensure good protection of the attic from the cold, a medium-density mineral component is used. Many well-known manufacturers produce slabs or rolls designed specifically for roofing.

Modern options have a reflective layer that is mounted inside the room. The shiny surface helps keep the heat in the house and prevents the penetration of cold.

The slabs can also be equipped with a vapor barrier film or a super diffuse membrane; materials consisting of layers of different densities are effective.

: insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool

Styrofoam or Styrofoam

White styrofoam boards are cheap and easy to get at a hardware store. Such material consists of compressed polystyrene foam granules and has high sound and heat insulation.

Installation of plates does not require professional tools

Styrofoam in the form of plates has the following characteristics that are optimal for high-quality roof construction:

• high sound insulation of the room even with a foam layer thickness of 2–3 cm;
• low water absorption prevents the structure from rotting;
• high density material provides wind protection;
• the optimal thickness of the expanded polystyrene layer for the roof in most regions is from 200 mm.

Foam boards are affordable, but not durable

Despite good sound and heat insulation properties, polystyrene foam is impractical for insulating the roof of a residential building. This is due to the high fire hazard of the material, instability to ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, expanded polystyrene does not provide air circulation, creating an atmosphere with high humidity in the room.

: roof insulation with styrofoam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The structure of polyurethane foam is porous and has cells filled with a gaseous substance. The material is made from products of petrochemical processing, contains polyols, polyisocyanates. This insulation has a structure with cells of different volumes and wall thicknesses. Depending on this, hard, soft, very soft, elastic and other subspecies of polyurethane foam are distinguished.

Cured polyurethane foam is a porous structure with high elasticity

For insulation of the roof of a residential building, polyurethane foam with the following characteristics is optimal:

• density - 30–86 kg/m3;
• thermal conductivity - 0.019–0.03 W / m;
• compliance with GOST 12.1.044 (flammable);
• water absorption is not more than 1.2% of the total volume;
• layer thickness from 10 to 60 mm.

Polyurethane foam is applied in several layers, and their total thickness reaches 60–80 mm

The arrangement of the roof is carried out using liquid polyurethane foam, which is available in cylinders or containers.

With a large amount of work, special equipment is required, consisting of two barrels with different components of polyurethane foam, a spray device, and a hose for transporting the composition.

The tool consists of two elements that are mixed during application and harden, forming an elastic and porous foam.

: thermal insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

How to choose the best insulation

The choice of thermal insulation material for the roof is based not only on climatic features and characteristics of insulation, but also on the shape of the roof. This is due to the fact that it is not always convenient to mount plate or roll components.

For example, sprayed polyurethane foam is suitable for a tent and cone-shaped structure, which is easy to seal even hard-to-reach cracks. Pitched roofs are easy to insulate with slab or roll materials, as they are mounted in the gap between the rafters.

There are a lot of roof options, but the choice of insulation is carried out taking into account the size and shape of the structure.

The main features are:

• non-toxicity of the insulation and safety for human health;
• incombustibility, optimal degree - G1;
• preservation of a geometric shape by the material, regardless of changes in humidity, temperature;
• no chemical reaction between the heat insulator and the roofing material;
• frost resistance and small specific gravity.

The choice of material is also influenced by its cost. Sprayed polyurethane foam is one costly option that requires specialized application equipment. Mineral wool and polystyrene are affordable and in demand for the insulation of private houses.

Roof insulation methods from the inside

To create a comfortable atmosphere in the house allows thermal insulation of the roof. This process can be carried out by several basic methods that differ in the technology of work and the materials used.

The choice of insulation method depends on the purpose of the attic space.

The method of insulation may depend on the purpose of the attic space. If the space will play the role of an attic, then the roof and floor should be carefully equipped.

In the case when only the elimination of heat losses through the roof is required, it is enough to insulate the floor of the attic.

Depending on the suitable method, the necessary tools and equipment are also prepared, and the vapor barrier is installed.

Full insulation of the attic also involves thermal insulation of the floor

There are three main methods of roof insulation, the features of which are expressed as follows:

• installation of insulation directly on the inner surface of the roof. For this method, slab or roll materials are suitable, which are laid in the space between the rafter legs, and then a small crate is mounted on which a vapor barrier film is attached. At the same time, there should be a gap of about 5 cm between the vapor barrier and the insulation for ventilation and moisture removal;
• spraying method involves the application of polyurethane foam using special equipment. Such a composition forms a foam that quickly hardens, but even gets into small cracks, preventing the penetration of cold. The agent is applied to the truss system from the inside of the roof, and then the vapor barrier is mounted and the attic room is finished;
• for an unused attic, the floor insulation method is suitable. In this case, a complex is created from light logs, in the space between which expanded clay or foam glass is poured. Next, mount the subfloor. At the same time, the roof remains "cold" and does not require insulation.

: features of attic insulation

Roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool: technology features

In addition to classic mineral wool, modern manufacturers present improved versions of basalt or fiberglass insulation.

Such materials are similar to mineral wool, but have much higher technical characteristics than a simple version of the fibrous structure.

At the same time, the installation technology is the same in each case and can be used for foam plastic, foam plastic and other heat-insulating boards.

Insulation with slab materials is optimal for any pitched roofs

Before working on arranging the roof from the inside, you need to consider such recommendations as:

• joints of insulation plates in adjacent layers are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
• if the total thickness of the heat insulator should be 20 cm, then you need to lay 2 layers of 10 cm, and not 4 to 5 cm;
• insulation material should not block ventilation gaps;
• mineral wool slabs cannot be bent, which will lead to rapid absorption of moisture by the material;
• they should fit as tightly as possible to each other and to the rafters.

Stages of roof insulation

Insulation work begins with an inspection of the truss system. If there are rotten or damaged elements, then they must be replaced with new ones. After that, all wooden parts of the structure are treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and extend the life of the insulation.

Rafters must be intact and strong

For work you will need a sharp knife, tape measure, cloves, wooden blocks with a section of about 5x5 cm, strong synthetic thread and a furniture stapler with staples. Basic installation steps:

1. The waterproofing film is laid outside the truss system, that is, under the roofing. They measure the distance between the rafter legs, cut the slabs or roll according to this width. The material is cut directly in the package, which is convenient and does not require any extra steps
2. The roll is rolled out from top to bottom, pressing the material tightly against the rafters. If plates are used, then they are also carefully laid in the space between the rafter legs. The gaps are sealed with mounting foam that is resistant to temperature extremes and humidity. The plates are laid tightly, and then the bars are stuffed onto the rafters under the vapor barrier
3. The laid material is fixed by pulling the thread. To do this, staples are stuffed on each rafter leg, the thread is fastened in a zigzag. A more effective method is to install the bars across the rafters. These elements serve as the basis for the vapor barrier film, which is fastened with brackets and additionally fixed with slats, stretching well along the planes. Installation is carried out with an overlap of about 10 cm, the joints are connected with adhesive tape. The vapor barrier film is fixed with brackets and additionally with rails

Using this technology, it is possible to lay foam, foam plastic and other similar materials. Previously, all cracks are sealed with mounting foam, and there should be no holes in the waterproofing film that facilitate the penetration of moisture. So you can avoid damage to the insulation and ensure comfort in the room.

: thermal insulation of the roof with the material "Izover"

The arrangement of the heat-insulating layer on the roof can be carried out from the inside by observing the work technology. Plate materials most convenient for do-it-yourself installation and therefore in demand in private housing construction.

• Olga Novikova
• print

Source: //stroydom.guru/krysha/uteplenie-kryishi-iznutri.html

Do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside: what materials to choose

A large percentage of heat loss occurs through the ceiling, this is due to the desire of warm air to rise. In contact with the cold ceiling, it forms condensate, which accumulates from the side of the attic. Over time, wooden structures get wet, fungal and mold formations develop, and their integrity is violated.

Significant heat loss leads to an uncomfortable microclimate in the room, in winter it is a low temperature in living rooms, in summer it is unbearable heat. To avoid this, a heat-insulating layer is mounted.

The choice of materials and methods of roof insulation

The choice of roof insulation method from the inside depends on the functional use of the attic space.

In a residential attic or a technical room located in the attic, to reduce heat loss in the cold season, as well as maintain a comfortable microclimate in the hot season, the sloping roof surface and gables on the inside of the room are insulated.

If the attic space is not planned to be used for living or technical needs, then thermal insulation can only be located on the ceiling, and these works can be performed both from the attic side and from the side of the room.

All roofs can be conditionally divided into flat and pitched (single-pitched, double-pitched, tented, hip, mansard, multi-gable).

Insulation of a flat roof for effective heat retention should be done on both sides. Thermal insulation materials are placed from the side of the room, and they are carefully insulated from the outside to prevent moisture from entering the room.

You can use roll or sheet material, or you can insulate the roof with polyurethane foam, by spraying.

As heat-insulating materials in a private house use:

• mineral or glass wool;
• polyurethane foam (PPU);
• expanded polystyrene;
• expanded clay.

Requirements for thermal insulation materials:

• relative lightness, so that there is no additional load on the roof structure;
• moisture resistance; liquid-saturated material loses its technical characteristics;
• low coefficient of thermal conductivity; the lower this indicator is, the better the heat will be kept in the room;
• safety for the health of residents;
• resistance to temperature changes.

To insulate the roof from the inside with your own hands, you will need to first calculate the required layer of thermal insulation. Its size will depend on the selected material and climatic conditions at the location. 10 cm layer of mineral wool corresponds to 35 cm of expanded clay, or 8 cm of expanded polystyrene, 5 cm of polyurethane (PPU).

Important. The more severe the winters in the region, the thicker the insulator layer is used to insulate the roof.

Basic rules for the installation of thermal insulation materials

The roof insulation scheme includes 3 stages, which always remain unchanged:

1. First of all, a waterproofing layer is laid. It is necessary to cover with a film not only the crate, but also the rafters, carefully isolating all the protrusions and various recesses. Areas where communications pass, beams, as well as corners should be isolated especially carefully. Attach the hydrobarrier to wooden elements stapled constructions using furniture stapler or construction buttons. The places where several sections are docked are placed with a 10 cm approach to each other and glued with adhesive tape. To remove accumulated moisture, the edges of the hydrobarrier are led out under the roof overhangs. If the insulation of the roof from the inside occurs simultaneously with its installation, there will be no difficulties with the drainage routes.
2. If the roof is insulated from the inside with mineral wool, then it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to screw self-tapping screws into the beam, drive in nails and pull a strong thread, fishing line or twine between them. Insulation of a pitched roof occurs by placing a heat insulator between the rafters. Install it in a spacer so that gaps do not form at the points of contact with the structures. If possible wooden beams they are also wrapped with heat-insulating materials, because they, in contact with frosty air, become a kind of cold bridge. To fix the insulation between the rafters, slats are stuffed to prevent it from slipping. You can also use a thread grate, for this, self-tapping screws are screwed into the beams, between which twine or fishing line is pulled that can withstand the heat-insulating layer.
3. Proper insulation includes the mandatory placement of a vapor barrier material on top of the insulation. This step is necessary so that the condensate that forms in the attic is not absorbed into the heat-insulating layer. Insulation from the inside with mineral wool over time will lead to filling it with moisture, which it will give to the wooden structures in the immediate vicinity, thereby reducing their service life. The contact of the wooden sections of the roof with wet material will serve as an impetus for the start of the process of decay and the growth of mold fungi. This process can be prevented only by carefully isolating the heat-insulating layer. Fasten the vapor barrier with staples or building buttons to wooden structures.

Important. Foil insulation is much better at retaining heat.

Only in those cases when the technology of roof insulation is carried out exactly, you can count on a positive result.

Mansard roofs

Insulating an attic roof will require much more effort than insulating a pitched roof. This is due to the presence of windows, broken surfaces and a large area of ​​roofing.

Important. If the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the beam, it is necessary to grow it to the required size.

Such roofs are mounted to increase the attic space. They can be made as usual gable, but more pointed, or with a broken roof structure. Like every gable roof, there are 2 gables in their design. Therefore, they can be considered work on their insulation as insulation of a pitched roof.

general scheme of a warm roof device

1. Work begins with laying the moisture-proof material on top of the crate, bringing its edges under the roof overhang, thus ensuring unimpeded removal of moisture.
2. Lay the heat insulator between the rafters.
3. The ceiling is stuffed, which also performs a decorative finishing function, and keeps the thermal insulation layer from falling out during operation.

In this case, the space between the rafters is filled with polyurethane foam by spraying. It is important that the roof space does not have cracks, gaps and holes into which uncured polyurethane foam (PUF) could seep.

This material does not require special surface preparation, has high soundproofing, heat-insulating and water-repellent properties. PPU has a good degree of adhesion to almost all materials.

A distinctive feature of such roofs can be called the presence of window blocks.

It is important to ensure a snug fit of heat-insulating materials to window frames, to seal possible gaps.

flat roofs

Insulation of a flat roof from the side of the room is carried out in cases where large heat losses occur through the ceiling. Most often, flat roofs are made of reinforced concrete floors. Therefore, there is an additional difficulty in fixing the heat-insulating layer.

In order to carry out high-quality installation, in which heat loss will decrease, the base is carefully prepared, all kinds of irregularities, plaster residues are cleaned off and treated with deep penetration primers. It is possible to insulate the roof with polystyrene foam, the plates of which are attached to the base with adhesives, and the dowel is additionally fixed with nails.

Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to install hydro and vapor barriers. All joints and connections are carefully filled with hermetic compounds. If several layers are laid, then the seams are placed apart, this will significantly improve the quality of the insulation.

You can close the insulation system with tension or suspended structures. In cases where the installation of drywall is planned, they are pre-stuffed to the base wooden crate with a beam cross section equal to the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Electrical wires are placed in a protective box, between the layers of foam.

Attic floor insulation

If the attic is not used as residential or technical rooms, then roof insulation from the inside is not necessary. It makes sense to place heat-insulating material on the ceiling and minimize heat loss from heated rooms to the attic. This method will keep comfortable temperature in a residential area, while reducing heating resources.

Such insulation of the roof of the house can be carried out both from the side of the room and from the side of the attic. Consider options for insulating the ceiling from the attic.

As in other cases, work begins with laying a layer of vapor barrier, which will not allow the insulation to absorb the resulting condensate.

If the roof of a wooden house is being insulated, then all beams and ledges must be wrapped with a vapor barrier to prevent rotting.

At the junction of the attic floor and roof slopes, the film is brought up so that its edges protrude at least 5 cm above the level of thermal insulation, and are fixed with adhesive tape (buttons, staples).

In cases where it is necessary to connect 2 sections of the vapor barrier, they must be overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. To effectively save heat and increase the service life of materials, it is important to ensure the tightness of all connections.

If smoke and ventilation ducts, they are also wrapped with insulation to a height of 40–50 cm, having previously installed a vapor barrier layer.

mansard roof insulation scheme

Insulation can be placed throughout the entire floor, but it will be much more efficient to build a cellular system from beams or boards installed on the edge. It is desirable that the height of the ribs of the crate is equal to the total thickness of all layers of thermal insulation.

Roof insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is cut into fragments corresponding to the dimensions of the constructed cells, observing the specified parameters as accurately as possible. Indeed, through the remaining gaps, in case of insufficient dimensions, intensive heat transfer will occur. Too large pieces, of course, can be pressed in, but the quality of heat containment will deteriorate significantly.

Important. Two thin layers of insulation retain a much greater percentage of heat than one thick one.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the surface insulated with mineral wool, after which they begin to install a rough flooring, along which you can move freely if necessary.

Roof insulation with foam

Insulation of the attic floor using foam or polystyrene boards is not difficult. You can easily carry out such roof insulation with your own hands.

Before laying the sheets, you will need to level the base, because only a snug fit of polystyrene can provide reliable insulation. Styrofoam is laid in a continuous layer butt-to-butt or in a cellular crate and all joints are carefully sealed. Having completed the insulation of the roof with polystyrene foam, they mount the subfloor.

Insulation of the attic floor with expanded clay

Insulation of the roof of a private house can be done using expanded clay. Typically, this method is used if the ceiling is mounted from reinforced concrete slabs.

With this method, the degree of evenness of the base is not important, it is enough to repair cracks and crevices, if any, and install the crate. A layer of expanded clay is poured into the formation of the cell and leveled with an ordinary rake. A rough floor is laid on top.

It is possible to replace expanded clay with sawdust mixed with water and cement. The resulting composition is distributed over the base of the attic floor.

The disadvantages of such heaters include the difficulty of lifting them up, as well as the additional load on the ceiling.

Use electrical appliances in the same way as before, and pay 2 times less!

You will be able to pay 30-50% less for electricity, depending on which electrical appliances you use.

Source: //EconomOtdelka.ru/uteplenie/uteplenie-kryshi-iznutri.html

We insulate the roof (roof) from the inside with our own hands

By insulating the roof from the inside with your own hands, you will achieve two important benefits. Firstly, you will be able to get rid of heat losses, which in houses with non-insulated roofs amount to 15%. Secondly, by insulating the attic space, you will get additional space that can be turned into a full-fledged living room.

Roof insulation requirements

Photo of roof insulation

To fulfill effective insulation roofs from inside your house, you will need to use the appropriate materials. They have special requirements that must be taken into account when choosing.

• Density. Thermal insulation properties are higher for those materials whose density is low. For roofing, it is recommended to choose an average density;
• Thermal conductivity. Try to use materials that have the lowest thermal conductivity. So the protective layer will practically not release such significant heat from under the roof;
• Water absorption. This is the property to absorb and retain moisture in the pores of the material. We do not need to accumulate moisture, therefore, when choosing heat-insulating glass wool or mineral wool, be sure to check whether it is hydrophobized;
• Resistant to low temperatures. Most roof insulation materials easily withstand temperatures as low as -50 degrees Celsius. This is quite enough for any region of our country. But specify how many cycles of freezing and thawing the material can withstand;
• Burn resistant. The material must not present a hazard in this component. It is possible to get rid of such a lack of some heat insulators due to special impregnation;
• Chemical resistance. The selected thermal insulation should not collapse or lose its properties under the action of chemical substances. But you must not allow contact with them either;
• Environmental friendliness. Since many equip the roof space under the roof in residential attic, you need to use exclusively safe, environmentally friendly materials based on natural or non-hazardous components.

Considering all the requirements for materials for roof insulation from the inside, the choice will be between several optimal options for heat-insulating roofing materials.

1. Mineral wool. This is the most popular way to insulate a roof from the inside. Choose basalt wool, be sure to ask in the store when buying mineral wool for a product safety certificate. Dimensions, thickness, geometry of products are selected in accordance with the parameters of the roof itself.
2. Glass wool. Not so long ago, glass wool was used very widely in matters of roof insulation. But now the emergence of safer, environmentally friendly materials has brought glass wool to the background. The thermal insulation properties are not bad, the efficiency is at a high level. But when insulating the roof with glass wool, be sure to follow safety measures, wear protective suits, gloves, goggles, protect the respiratory tract from glass dust. For allergy sufferers, such material is contraindicated.
3. Polymer heaters. These include plates made of foam or expanded polystyrene. For the price, a very attractive option for roof insulation, but in practice it has its drawbacks. For starters, polystyrene foam and polystyrene burn easily, emit copious amounts of smoke that is dangerous to the body. They should be chosen for roof insulation only in situations where there are no alternatives.
4. Expanded clay. If you have insulated the floor in the house, expanded clay will be familiar to you. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, but it is incredibly difficult to work with it when insulating the roof from the inside. Theoretically, it is possible to use it, but in practice, not all experienced craftsmen undertake such work.

Stages of roof insulation

Photo of insulation - mineral wool

Now you can begin to consider the main stages of work aimed at warming the roof from the inside. Beforehand, we advise you to watch the video instructions, to get acquainted with all the nuances of thermal insulation clearly, using the example of experienced craftsmen.

The process of internal insulation of the roof includes four main stages.

1. Roof waterproofing installation. It is best to lay the waterproofing layer at the stage of laying the roofing material on the roof surface. The material is mounted perpendicular to the rafters, observing a slight sag. The smooth side of the waterproofing should be facing up. Be sure to glue the strips of the waterproofing sheet with adhesive tape to prevent the formation of cracks and gaps. Then, on the rafter legs, it is required to fill the counter-rails with the help of bars, and lay a crate of boards on them. Laying of roofing material begins on top of the board. If the roofing has already been completed, the waterproofing layer will have to be mounted under the rafters using a stapler. All joints are carefully glued with adhesive tape.
2. Installation of thermal insulation material. Take thermal insulation mats of the required thickness, lay them between the rafters. Laying should be done in a spacer or using a rough binder. The lining is made from thin slats, fishing line, twine, which is fastened with nails on the rafters. Fill with mats of thermal insulation material all the space between the rafters. Excess elements are cut off with a sharp knife. If you want to get the most effective thermal insulation in order to equip the attic for living quarters, all layers of material are laid with an offset from the bottom seam.
3. Installing vapor barrier on the roof. Vapor barrier films have one smooth side, which must be laid in the direction of the insulation material. The rough side is responsible for the absorption of wet fumes, therefore it is directed into the room. Laying the vapor barrier film correctly is very important so that it can work effectively. Having mixed up the laying sides, condensation will soon begin to appear on the surface. The material is mounted with a stapler, the joints are connected with adhesive tape.
4. Installation of profiles or guide bars. They are necessary for the installation of cladding decorative materials and creating the necessary ventilation gap.

Foamed roof insulation

Today, roof insulation with the help of foamed insulation is gaining more and more popularity. A prime example is polyurethane foam.

The method of roof insulation in this way has several features:

• The roof does not need additional preparation from the inside;
• The roof sheathing must be solid, carefully treated with antiseptics;
• For spraying polyurethane foam on the roof, special installations are used. They supply pressurized carbon dioxide. On the video you can see how they function;
• The method of roof insulation with foam insulation requires the invitation of specialists. It is financially unprofitable to purchase an installation;
• A layer of foam is applied to the inner surface of the roof, reaching the required thickness of the insulation;
• When the foam dries, it forms a layer of waterproof, seamless material on the roof, which is characterized by low thermal conductivity;
• The only drawback of insulation with foam insulation is vapor tightness. To eliminate it, you need to equip the attic with an exhaust system. But it is required only for the arrangement of a residential attic.

Insulating the roof from the inside is easy with your own hands. But before starting work, it is necessary to study the theory, choose the best option for insulation and follow the sequence of laying layers of thermal insulation.

articles - material rating: 5.00 out of 5

The roof is a complex multifunctional structure, which is also involved in heat exchange between the attic and the outdoor space. Regardless of how the attic is used by the residents, the roofs of houses are insulated even in the southern regions of Russia. Consider why this is done, how to choose a heater for the roof, and arrange it on your own durable warm roof.

One of the variants of the insulated roof in the section

Why insulate the roof

Availability of an attic important factor for the temperature regime of housing, since even an unheated attic, being a buffer between the street and the ceiling of the upper floor, performs the functions of thermal insulation.

On a cold roof, due to the heat exchange between the attic and the outside, the snow melts - there is heat loss

To reduce heat loss through the ceilings of the upper rooms, the attic floors are insulated, but heat transfer through them still occurs, and in winter it is still a little warmer in the attic than outside.

If the roof is not insulated, then in winter condensation forms on its inner surface, which causes rotting of wooden rafters and battens, flows down and accumulates on the floor.

Roof without insulation

In addition, in the house for six months, or even more, the temperature regime is violated, since the lack of roof insulation makes the attic not only cold in winter, but also hot in summer.

Materials used for roof insulation

The suitability of a heat-insulating material for use as a roof insulation is determined by its following characteristics:

• Density is a parameter that determines the porosity, and hence the thermal conductivity of the material. With a decrease in density, porosity increases and thermal conductivity decreases, which leads to an improvement in thermal insulation properties.
• Thermal conductivity is the ability of a material to transfer heat, the intensity of which depends not only on porosity, but also on the degree of moisture content of the material. With an increase in the humidity of the insulating material, its thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the thermal insulation qualities.
• Water absorption. To reduce the value of this parameter and reduce the value of the moisture factor, fibrous insulation is impregnated with water-repellent (hydrophobic) compounds. When buying mineral wool insulators, preference should be given to materials that have undergone such processing.

In addition to the listed characteristics, the environmental friendliness of thermal insulation is of great importance - the absence of harmful emissions into the surrounding space in working order.

As for the flammability of the insulation, the degree of smoke formation and the toxicity of the smoke formed upon contact with the flame, these parameters are determined according to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings" and SP 4.13130.2013 "Fire protection systems". Confirmation of the insulator's compliance with these requirements is a certificate, which must be presented by the seller at the request of the buyer.

For the thermal insulation of roofs, several groups of heaters are used, differing in physical characteristics. To facilitate the selection of the isolant that best suits specific conditions, we will consider these groups and the materials included in them in more detail.

Mineral wool insulation

This group of thermal insulation materials includes several types of insulating materials produced in the form of rolls or mats:

• glass wool;
• slag wool.

The effectiveness of the use of these heaters for thermal protection of roofs is ensured by the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity (dry);
• incombustibility;
• resistance to temperature extremes;
• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to the effects of microorganisms;
• high soundproofing characteristics;
• ease of installation;
• durability.

stone wool

This thermal insulation material is produced by melting rocks, followed by drawing the hot mass into fibers and combining with phenol-formaldehyde resins used as a binder. The final product has an open cellular structure and, due to the content of organic matter of no more than 3%, can withstand temperatures up to 1000 0 C.

Rolled and sheet stone wool

Since basalt is most often used as a raw material, stone wool is also called basalt.

According to the degree of hardness, basalt wool is divided into groups:

• soft - highly porous roll material made of fibers of minimum thickness, used in places with no mechanical influences (insulation of walls under a ventilated facade, roofs);
• medium hardness - sheet insulator made of fibers of greater thickness, used for thermal insulation of facades with a significant wind load;
• rigid - mats made of thick and rigid fibers, laid under a concrete screed and a "wet" facade.

Soft (left) and hard stone wool

To give the insulation waterproofing and reflective characteristics, another type of stone wool is produced - universal, with one-sided or two-sided aluminum foil.

Foil basalt wool

Stone wool is the most effective of mineral fiber heat insulators, which is due to the following factors: virtues :

• high heat and sound insulation characteristics;
• fire safety (do not burn and do not support combustion);
• high vapor permeability;
• sufficient hydrophobicity;
• high durability without loss of functionality (30 years or more);
• ease of installation.

The disadvantage of basalt wool comes from its advantages - this is a high price. All other consumer claims are the result of the acquisition of low-quality insulation.

Important! Despite the softness of stone wool fibers, it is necessary to work with it in a respirator.

glass wool

Glass wool is a time-tested insulation, originally made from a molten mixture of quartz sand (80%) with limestone, dolomite, soda and borax. Later, the sand was replaced with secondary raw materials (glass cullet), which, without compromising quality, reduced the cost, as a result of which glass wool today is 2-3 times cheaper than insulating material from basalt raw materials.

Produced in the following form:

• rolls - soft material thickness up to 100 mm for the possibility of laying, including on surfaces of complex configuration;
• mats or slabs - rigid and semi-rigid insulating material up to 200 mm thick for outdoor use.

Insulation with improved characteristics (blowing protection, waterproofing) is made of foil or reinforced fiberglass.

Foil insulation Isover

Glass wool fibers are 3-4 times longer than those of stone or slag wool. At the same time, there are no non-fibrous inclusions in it, which provides the material with elasticity and high resistance to compaction under the influence of vibration.

The thermal conductivity of glass wool is in the range of 0.03-0.52 W / m 0 C, which exceeds the performance of polymer insulating materials, but less than that of slag and basalt insulation.

Glass wool passes steam well, withstands temperature changes from -50 0 C to +250 0 C without loss of properties, is not flammable and does not attract rodents. The density of this isolant ranges from 11 to 25 kg/m 3 .

Important! On pitched roofs (a slope of more than 12%), it is better to use a roll insulation that is more convenient for such structures, but with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3.

Glass wool insulation for pitched roofs

The listed advantages determine the high demand for glass wool for thermal insulation of buildings for various purposes, but the insulation also has disadvantages:

• hygroscopicity - due to the ability to absorb moisture from environment glass wool needs waterproofing;
• a wet insulator dries for a long time, and after several wetting it becomes compacted and loses its heat-insulating properties;
• fragile and prickly glass wool fibers penetrate ordinary clothing, irritating the skin, eyes and respiratory tract more than other insulators;

Important! Work using glass wool is carried out in tight clothes using personal protective equipment - gloves, goggles or a mask, a respirator. To protect problem areas of the skin from the penetration of fibers into the pores, use baby powder or talc. After work, you need to take a cool shower with strong water pressure.

slag wool

Slag wool is a fibrous insulation produced from metallurgical production waste (blast furnace slag). A jet of molten slag is blown with compressed air or steam, resulting in the formation of thin fibers (Ø 0.004-0.012 mm, length up to 16 mm), from which a porous canvas is formed by subsequent pressing with a binder treatment. Since blast-furnace slags contain sulfur compounds, iron oxides and manganese, these components are also present in slag.

Blast furnace slag and slag wool

With the advantages inherent in all mineral wool insulation, slag thermal insulation has a number of individual shortcomings :

• hygroscopicity - the material absorbs and accumulates moisture in the air;
• residual acidity of blast-furnace slag causes oxidation metal structures and rotting of wood in places of their contact with thermal protection, especially when it gets wet;
• decrease in thermal insulation properties under the influence of temperature changes;
• instability to vibration - susceptibility to compaction with deterioration in heat-shielding characteristics;
• prickly and brittle fibers - identical to glass wool.

These factors limit the scope of use of slag wool and, as a result, reduce the demand for this inexpensive insulation. For warming wooden houses, especially residential ones, it is better not to use it.

Comparative table of characteristics of mineral wool insulation

Styrofoam

This insulation is one of the varieties of foam and consists of many thin-walled capsules fastened together with air, which makes up to 98% of the total volume of the material. This structure determines the low density, low specific gravity and high thermal insulation characteristics of expanded polystyrene, which is widely used in the thermal protection of civil and industrial buildings.

Expanded polystyrene and foam

Expanded polystyrene is produced in three types:

• non-pressed - a porous material with the ability to absorb water, marked with the abbreviation PSB (suspension non-pressed polystyrene foam);
• press - a dense and durable insulator with closed pores, low water absorption and good heat-insulating characteristics, marked with PS;
• extruded (foam) - the most effective thermal protection, characterized by a small size of closed pores (0.1-0.2 mm), is marked with EPPS letters with a numerical density value (EPPS-25, -30, -35, -45).

Individual properties of expanded polystyrene:

• water absorption - the penetration of water into the material is not more than 0.4% of the volume of the insulating material when completely immersed in water for a period of 10 days;
• low vapor permeability (0.05 mg/m h Pa);
• biological stability - does not react to microorganisms, but is vulnerable to rodents.

Mice damaged insulation

Bulk thermal insulation materials

The most popular heater in this group is expanded clay - an environmentally friendly material produced by high-temperature swelling of natural clay, followed by firing the resulting granules. Expanded clay has all the properties of fired clay, except for density and thermal conductivity, which are much lower than those of ceramics.

Expanded clay is produced in several fractions, differing in the size of the granules and related characteristics:

• expanded clay gravel - 20-40 mm, 10-20 mm;
• expanded clay sand - up to 5 mm.

Expanded clay of various fractions

A fraction of 10-20 mm is used as a roof insulation.

Table comparing the characteristics of expanded clay of various fractions

Advantages of expanded clay :

• environmental friendliness - the absence of any harmful emissions;
• good heat and sound insulation properties due to low thermal conductivity (≈0.16 W / m) and high porosity;
• fire resistance and absolute incombustibility;
• high frost resistance;
• a wide range of bulk density - 250-800 kg/m3, depending on the fraction;
• resistance to chemicals;
• high compressive strength;
• resistance to the formation of fungus and lack of attractiveness for rodents;
• high durability with the preservation of characteristics;
• affordable price.

Expanded clay disadvantages:

• hygroscopicity;
• thermal protection efficiency requires a layer of 15 cm;
• for roof insulation houses internally unsuitable.

Important! Statement that roof insulation expanded clay is the cheapest, but not always true - in the northern regions, the cost of backfilling it, due to the significance of the layer thickness, will exceed the cost of thermal protection from other insulators (mineral wool, foam plastic).

roof insulation device

First of all, it is necessary to determine the method of thermal insulation of the roof, which is tied to the following factors:

1. The newly built roof is insulated from the outside, and the existing one is insulated from the inside.
2. The insulator is selected taking into account the magnitude of the slope - on flat roofs, you can use not only mineral wool and polymer, but also loose thermal protection.

Installation of insulation is carried out in the warm season, and insulation from the outside also requires dry weather.

Thermal protection thickness calculation

Having chosen a heater for a roof, it is necessary to calculate the need for it. To do this, you need to multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof by the thickness of the insulation. The area is determined by multiplying the dimensions of the roof, and the thickness of the insulating material is calculated in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", taking into account the region where the building is located.

The formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation

The resistance of fences to the passage of heat through them (R 0 priv) depends on the region, its independent calculation is difficult, therefore, for ease of use, the values ​​​​of the reduced resistances for Russian cities are summarized in the table:

Table of resistance to heat transfer in the cities of Russia

The thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation is indicated on the packaging of the insulator or in its quality certificate and can have several values:

• when operating in a dry room with a temperature of 10 0 С;
• for use in a dry room with a temperature of 25 0 С;
• for use in wet conditions.

In the case of roof insulation, the first value must be used.

More details about required thickness roofing insulation will tell this video:

Roof insulation from the outside

There is no universal technology for thermal protection of roofing bases, because each roof structure requires an individual approach to solving many interrelated issues - from the material of insulation and the method of fastening to the arrangement of overhangs and ridge. Consider the performance of the types of work required for the arrangement of the roof with mineral wool.

Insulation of a pitched roof from the outside is performed during the construction of a house or a major overhaul of the roof - at the stage when the installation of the rafters is completed.

Work begins from the inside - from the side of the attic, a special vapor barrier film is mounted on the rafters, designed to protect the insulation from steam coming from the interior.

Vapor barrier films and membranes

When installing a vapor barrier, the orientation of the sides of the insulating material must be carried out in accordance with the type of film:

• glassine is laid with the bituminous side inside the room;
• for single-layer films, including those reinforced with a polymer mesh, orientation is not important;
• two-three-layer membranes are placed with a smooth side to the insulation (fleshy - to the room);
• foil vapor barrier is mounted with foil towards the attic.

When choosing a vapor barrier, it is necessary to take into account the value of the Sd index on the package - the lower it is, the higher the vapor permeability of the film.

Laying of vapor protection is started from above - across the rafters with an overlap of the upper strip on the lower one by 10 -12 cm.

Installation of a vapor barrier film on the rafters

Then, wooden blocks are nailed over the film across the rafters with a step of 10-30 cm, arranging from them:

• load-bearing lattice base for laying outside the insulation;
• when finishing walls - a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the facing material.

Depending on what the walls will then be finished with, additional bars can be mounted on top of this crate, but already along the rafters.

Installation from the inside to the rafters of the crate

At the end of the fastening from the inside of the bars, they begin laying the insulation from the outside. Mats are installed between the rafters tightly - without gaps, but without folds. If it is necessary to lay several layers, then the sheets in the tiers are placed with an offset relative to the lower rows - for the mismatch of the seams.

Mineral wool insulation outside

On top of the insulation, it is necessary to mount waterproofing, arranging a ventilation gap of at least 3 cm between them.

If the mats are laid flush with the rafters or are not recessed enough, then to form a gap, the cross section of the beams is increased - wooden bars are mounted longitudinally to them, on which a waterproofing film is laid and fixed with a stapler.

If the rafters protrude above the insulation to the required height, then the waterproofing is attached to them - starting from the ridge, also with an overlap of 10-12 cm and gluing the joints with sealing tape.

Section of the insulated roof

Then, on top of the beams, a transverse crate is made, on which it is mounted top coat roofs.

Thermal protection of the roof from the inside

Insulation from the side of the attic is not considered the main one, it is performed according to the already existing design of the “cold” roof or roof, which was not previously sufficiently insulated from the outside. The number of thermal protection operations, their sequence and execution in a given situation may differ.

Consider the method of insulation "cold" roofs classic construction with mineral wool from within.

cold roof

Important! If old roof leaks, then it will have to be abandoned from its insulation from the inside - in this case, it is necessary to disassemble the outer coating and perform waterproofing again.

Mineral wool mats are cut in such a way that their width is 2-3 cm larger than the pitch of the rafters - this will allow them to be inserted by surprise. If the insulation is recessed in the grooves, then it must be additionally fixed. To do this, longitudinal strips are nailed to the beams in the grooves over the laid mats, and small nails are nailed to them in increments of 10 cm, leaving their caps not recessed. On the heads of the nails, “lacing” is performed between the rafters, which will securely fix the insulation in the grooves.

Fixing the insulation between the rafters with "lacing"

Then, a vapor barrier is attached to the beams with a stapler, on top of which the crate and finishing of the walls are mounted.

If the mineral wool is laid flush with the rafters, then the vapor barrier is also attached to them, after which a transverse and / or longitudinal crate is mounted on top of it, which will provide a ventilation gap, and finishing.

Lathing options for thermal insulation of the roof from the inside

The idea of ​​\u200b\u200binsulating the roof with mineral wool from the inside will complement this video:

Flat roof insulation

Flat roofs are divided into operated and non-operated. In the first case, the roof surface is used as an additional area, therefore, a concrete screed is made over the insulation, in the second case, no reinforcement is made, since only snow and wind are present from the mechanical loads.

Unexploited flat roofs

Insulation of both types of roofs is carried out according to one of two existing schemes:

• single-layer - the thermal protection layer is homogeneous and made of one material, it is used in industrial buildings, warehouses, garages;
• two-layer - the lower layer (70-170 mm) with low strength characteristics has high heat-shielding properties, and the upper one (30-50 mm) is dense, hard and durable.

For arrangement flat roofs most popular the insulation is expanded clay - an insulator is inexpensive and without problems associated with the tightness of the joints.

Work begins with the repair of the old roof - the removal of exfoliated materials and the sealing of cracks. 2 layers of waterproofing are laid on the repaired base, sealing the overlaps of the strips with special adhesive tape. If the roof is concrete, a waterproof underlay is not needed. Dry expanded clay is poured with a layer of 25-40 cm (determined by the formula), leveled and rammed.

"Pie" of a flat roof insulated with expanded clay

On top of expanded clay perform a screed cement-sand mortar, reinforced with a mesh of steel or plastic fittings. After the concrete has cured and dried, 2 layers of rolled waterproofing (roofing material, bitulin) are laid.

Insulated flat roof - platform for a veranda

Applying a decorative finish rubber tiles or artificial lawn, you can arrange a cozy veranda on the site.

Conclusion

Roof insulation in most regions of Russia is not a whim, but a necessity. The amount of work on the thermal insulation of any type of roof is significant, but the technical execution is not difficult. Choosing the right technology devices warm roof and insulating material, thermal protection of the house can really be done independently - by the forces of two or three performers.

The main essence of the article

1. Roof insulation housing outside or from the inside - this is a reduction in heat loss by 15%, an increase in the durability of wooden structures, the arrangement of additional living space.
2. Most modern heaters are suitable for roof insulation, so the question of which insulation is better is relevant only in relation to a particular situation.
3. Thermal protection of the roof from the outside is a type of construction work performed during the construction of a building. Roof insulation Houses from the inside - a corrective operation, but the effectiveness of the result can also be high.
4. Despite the significant amount of work, it is quite possible to insulate the roof with the help of two or three performers without the involvement of professionals.