Thermal insulation of the attic space yourself. How to insulate an attic from the inside - do-it-yourself thermal insulation of an attic roof. So what is the best way to insulate an attic?

If the attic space remains uninhabited, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with insulation of the ceiling). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create such conditions that the entire roofing system will serve for a long time.

Let us say right away that all wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with fire retardants. All elements located on the street side are treated with compounds for exterior work. Treat all wooden parts facing the interior with impregnations for interior work. If you use a composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If it’s the other way around, the wood outside may be damaged: the degree of protection is insufficient. Therefore, do not save on this matter.

More. Before describing how to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this purpose, special ventilation holes. Through them, air escapes from under the roofing material, carrying away excess moisture. And it must get under the roof deck through the overhangs. There is absolutely no way to do everything hermetically. This is where the air intake comes from. This is the only way the condensate will dry out in a timely manner and the roof will last a long time.

Proper insulation of the attic

To ensure that the attic floor is warm in winter and cool in summer, there are no problems with high humidity, and icicles do not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, steam and waterproofing are comprehensive solution and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is also walls attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• internal cladding (plasterboard or lining);
• sheathing;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and parameters of the insulation, for middle zone Russia is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• sheathing;
• roof covering.

The photo shows the insulation of a broken line mansard roof in graphic form. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is placed above the insulation (indicated blue). Its purpose is to prevent condensation that has formed or seeped through the roof covering from getting into the insulation and to remove the steam that did get into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with vapor permeability from 1500 g/m2. This layer is often called waterproofing (that’s what it actually is), only the waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it is laid exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and laying closely on the insulation. Often, to save money, it is rolled out over the rafters, but not by pulling it, but by making a sag of 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets to the surface, and then rolls down and is removed outside the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must extend into the drainage gutter. Then moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls out across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row runs into the gutter. The next one rolls out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. At the ridge, the membranes on both sides are cut along the upper edge and secured. A strip rolls along the ridge, going down from one side and the other of the roof. This creates a coating along which water flows all the way to the drainage gutter.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about vapor barrier. This should also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not fit: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be minimal. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When used as insulation mineral wool this is very important: if it gets wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and if it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it will completely crumble into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with one panel overlapping the other. Moreover, these joints are glued with special double-sided vapor-impermeable tape (it looks like adhesive rubber). An ordinary painter's or stationery tool will not work. They do not provide 100% steam protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

There is a line marked on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer begins (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the joists using staplers or, as in the figure, with internal sheathing slats for installation of the sheathing. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry out the finish and membrane. This gap is desirable, but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

Thermal insulation

How best to insulate a sloping roof is a complex question and there is no clear answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg/m3. Since the attic roof usually has a large angle of inclination, soft materials can slide. It is for this reason that it is better to take slabs. Although in this case you will have to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the size of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the slab so that the material fits between the beams and holds well.

Thermal insulation must be laid so that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, 200-250 mm of mineral wool is usually required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the slab becomes tight, eliminating the presence of cracks. If the width is larger/smaller, you have to cut the material. In this case, the chance of getting a smooth edge is small and there are a lot of residues left.

If the dimensions of the rafters do not allow laying all the insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across the side of the room. The remaining insulation is placed between them. A vapor barrier and, if necessary, lathing for finishing are already attached to the top. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely eliminated, even covering the rafters. This method requires slightly higher installation costs, but the attic will definitely be warmer, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate an attic roof: work order

The good thing about the attic floor is that it allows the completion of construction to be extended. It is immediately necessary to lay and secure the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, along with the sheathing and roofing material. And insulating the attic can be done from the inside after some time.

But please note: the waterproofing layer must be installed together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not install this membrane. As a result, it is either necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this deficiency. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal condition of the materials.

We insulate from the outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

With this option, working with insulation is not difficult: it is easy to lay, it rests on the sheathing (laces).

Insulation from the inside

This option allows you to postpone the interior finishing for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the rafter system, here is what you need to do:

• roll out and secure the waterproofing;
• fill the sheathing (if necessary, counter-lattice);
• install roofing material.

For the first stage, this is all the necessary work. Once you are able to continue, you will need to insulate the attic roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make an enclosing structure that will prevent the insulation from being pushed out higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed somehow: it tends to fall on your head. The order of work is as follows:

A few notes on how thermal insulation material can be laid. If these are mats made of high-density mineral wool and their width is slightly larger than the pitch between the joists, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is installed, everything is more complicated. When insulating the attic roof from the inside, it is laid from bottom to top. Take the lace construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it against the slats, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you secure the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the attic roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg/m3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope cake, settling down, and the thermal insulation of the attic roof deteriorates.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating an attic roof is mineral wool. She is good, but not at all ideal: she is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)

The roof is sheathed with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polystyrene foam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing brands (with special additives). It is better to use them for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polystyrene foam: low price. It is easy to install: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed polyurethane foam. It’s convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with polystyrene foam: just order the slabs the right size- 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and place them tightly. Due to their elasticity, they hold up very well.

A ventilation gap is also left on the roof side and waterproofing is installed. But it protects the wooden structure more, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, practically does not absorb it, and does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, it is necessary in the attic good system ventilation, and this is an additional cost.

EPPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene foam. It also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps through which heat can escape. Another plus: extruded polystyrene foam is not liked by mice and insects; fungi and mold do not grow on it. What limits its use: a respectable price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Extrol, STIREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX, Styrofoam, KINPLAST, Teploizolit, GREENPLEX. Although the technology is the same, there are some differences in characteristics, so compare when choosing.

Not long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increasing in size many times over, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is, perhaps, the only way today to correct the situation and efficiently insulate the attic if, when installing the roofing, they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ecowool

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W/m² °C), but has a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition will be poured. In case of mansard roof the side parts are rafters; sheet material (fibreboard, gypsum fiber board, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool emerges under pressure. It fills all cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the insulation materials described above: it conducts vapor. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume and then release it. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated naturally, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be the same, as should the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

not uncommon today. Increase due to the attic useful square meters- The easiest way. But in order for it to last throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to insulate an attic from the inside if the roof is already covered roofing material. Let's figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.

And although many people believe that the attic is a type of attic, in fact, it is a completely different room, which differs in size from the first. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.

In all other respects, this is an attic space, enclosed by a rafter system with a roof laid on it. If the roof is gable, then the attic is enclosed on both sides by gables - vertical walls supporting truss structure. It is in them that doors with access to the adjacent balcony are made. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.

The technology for assembling the rafter system and roofing material is that it is necessary to lay between them, protecting wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the side of the roofing. This is a kind of safety net. Mainly used on roofs waterproofing material roll type, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and attached to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight slack in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be secured with tape or self-adhesive tape.

Then wooden slats, called counter-lattice, are laid along the rafters, and transverse slats, called lathing, are mounted on them. The roofing material with fastening is laid on the latter.

The view from the inside of the attic shows rafters covered with a waterproofing layer on top. This is the design that will be needed. The question of how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires first of all the determination of the insulation, or rather, its selection. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with them all, and we will definitely identify the best one.

Insulation for attic roofs

It should be noted that the slope of the slopes that define the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed by rafter legs. It is between them that the thermal insulation material will need to be laid. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear shapes. This means that to insulate the attic roof of a private house, you will have to choose slab material. Such insulation materials include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.

But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique insulation technologies that do not use dense materials. One of them, which has shown itself on the most positive side, is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.

Mineral wool

The definition of mineral wool includes several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When the conversation turns to attic insulation, we should talk specifically about the basalt variety, as the best today. It was her specifications and we will consider it.

Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:

• P-75– used for insulation of pipes and horizontal surfaces;
• P-125– this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate attic walls from the inside with your own hands;
• PZh-175– for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
• PPZh-200– a very dense material used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.

Expanded polystyrene boards

This material is often called polystyrene foam, which is correct. It’s just that polystyrene foam boards differ in density from the type that is used for packaging. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, resistant to mechanical stress and humidity.

Let us immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof it is better to take polystyrene foam boards with a density of at least 25 kg/m³.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of a polyol and a polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and applied under pressure to the insulation areas through a hose and sprayer. In fact, polyurethane foam is a liquid substance that quickly hardens in air, turning into a hard and fairly durable coating.

The quality of insulation is based on the thermal conductivity characteristic. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.

But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest and requires special equipment to apply it. However, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations that weigh only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to rent it from friends or rent.

And several more types of thermal insulation materials, which are used less frequently when insulating a roof from the inside with your own hands.

Glass wool

Ecowool

Penofol

How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the process

So, we’ve decided on thermal insulation materials. Now let's look at how to properly insulate an attic roof.

Attention! When insulating an attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer being laid must be equal to the width rafter legs, the width of the insulation should be slightly larger than the distance between the rafters.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside: video and photo instructions

Photo	Description of work
	The mineral wool is laid out on the attic floor. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation fits tightly between the elements of the rafter system without leaving.
	Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently flat, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell.
	Therefore, transverse slats are placed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs.
	Instead of slats, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled over nails driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs.
	Insulation is laid under the padded slats.
	All that remains is to cover the thermal insulation cake with waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapors from penetrating the thermal insulation layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity it begins to lose its properties.
	The waterproofing membrane is nailed with nails or metal staples to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping stripes, starting from bottom to top.

Attention! If one layer of mineral wool for insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands is not enough to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the slabs of material must be laid offset relative to each other. The joints between slabs in one layer should not be allowed to coincide with the joints in the second layer.

Insulating the attic with foam plastic

As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards to insulate the attic. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to install protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof a hydro- or vapor barrier membrane was not used under the roofing material, then PP slabs are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.

Photo	Description of work
	As in the case of mineral wool, polystyrene foam boards are cut to fit the distance between the rafters.
	The slabs cut to size are laid in rafter system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future as a means of removing not only moist air vapor, but also some harmful components of the roof itself. thermal insulation material. Without forming this gap, PP cannot be laid.
	Another layer is laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is attached to the rafters using self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer.

It is very important to mix the insulation components correctly; their ratio should be 1:1.

Insulation of roofs of different geometries

The methods of thermal insulation of a pitched roof, in which the slope is one plane, were described above. But attics are also formed under sloping roofs, so the question of insulating a sloping roof from the inside is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially when it comes to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.

A sloping roof has a junction of two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, in the area where the two systems are connected, it is necessary to lay insulation materials without butts. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.

With a sloping roof, the attic space is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built precisely at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes located in the same transitional plane are insulated, and then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it is difficult to carry out thermal insulation of the upper slope or the goal is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limiting itself to insulating the ceiling.

What mistakes can occur when insulating an attic from the inside?

Answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside attic room with your own hands, you need to understand that this process itself is simple (not counting the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the final result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to pay attention to:

1. Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier underneath the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
2. There must be a gap between the thermal insulation cake and the roofing covering, which is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the sheathing, which is mounted on the counter-lattice.
3. If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13°, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leaks.
4. If skylights are installed on roof slopes, care must be taken to install them airtight. It’s better not to do this yourself; call specialists.
5. If the thickness of the purchased insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then slats can be punched along the lower edges of the latter.

So, we looked at how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.

The attic is not just a place to store unnecessary things. If you arrange it correctly, you will get a separate living room. Therefore, repairing the attic and especially insulating it is of interest to many home owners.

Insulation of the space under the roof is the main condition for comfortable living, and this is where the arrangement of this territory should begin. Before you begin repair work, you need to figure out which better material choose to insulate the attic, what to pay close attention to.

Insulating the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered: preparing the room

Insulating the attic from the inside

Not every attic can be called an attic. This type of attic space is distinguished by a sloped roof. In such a room, the height to the ceiling should be at least 2.5 meters.

Important! When carrying out installation work, you should Special attention pay attention to window insulation.

Making an attic and equipping it as a full-fledged living space is a very tempting idea, the implementation of which is actively pursued by building owners.

Before you buy a material, you should know what properties the insulation should have:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• minimum level of water absorption;
• safety;
• non-flammability;
• no shrinkage.

All these points are important to consider when choosing insulation for your attic. But the most significant are insulation from heat loss and waterproofing.

The attic is located under the roof and is therefore a rather cold room. A large temperature difference between the outside of the building and the attic space itself often leads to the accumulation of condensation. Moisture negatively affects construction, as well as Decoration Materials, leads to their damage and destruction.

What is the best way to insulate an attic floor in a private house?

Construction materials, including for internal use There are a lot of any rooms. To know which insulation is best to insulate the attic, you should take into account design features specific building, as well as climatic conditions in the region of residence.

Styrofoam

Foam insulation

This is one of the most popular insulating materials, which has won the love of builders and repairmen due to its low price.

The cost of polystyrene foam is its main advantage, but it is far from the only one:

1. This material is highly moisture resistant and does not absorb water. If you additionally coat it with a special impregnation, then the drops will simply flow down it.
2. Lightness is another advantage of polystyrene foam. It is easy to transport and convenient to work with. They do not create any additional load on the roof or supporting structures.
3. Another “plus” of the material is its excellent thermal insulation properties, so it is suitable as insulation for the attic.
4. The material can be easily cut using improvised means in any direction. It will not be difficult to fasten its sheets. A person without construction skills can handle laying polystyrene foam. This is not capricious material at all.

But before you choose this material, you should know what density of the canvas is needed to complete the task. After all, the comfort of the room depends on this.

Minvata

Insulation with mineral wool

Another type of popular and worthy means for thermal insulation is mineral wool. It is a bit like medical cotton wool due to the presence of fibers in the structure of the fabric. Mineral wool is sold in rolls, so transporting it and working with the material will not be particularly difficult.

This is an excellent attic insulation material. It does not allow heat to pass through and practically does not absorb moisture. This combination of characteristics makes it popular in construction. Even if the mineral wool gets wet, it will dry very quickly without deteriorating at all.

This material belongs to the class of environmentally friendly, it is safe. It doesn’t matter what the roof is covered with and how hot it gets in the summer, there will be no problems with mineral wool. Moreover, mice do not gnaw it, and bugs do not grow in it. This is where mineral wool compares favorably with polystyrene foam. The fibrous material also blocks sound.

Quite convenient. The material has elasticity, although it seems fibrous and soft. It will stick well between the rafters if the sheets are fixed correctly.

Ecowool

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool is not layers, but a crushed substance. It tightly blows out all the cracks, small holes, as well as the space between the ceiling and the rafters. It is unlikely that you will be able to do this yourself, because blowing it out requires special equipment. Insulating a roof with ecowool is an expensive proposition. But this type of insulation has its advantages: the insulation effect is high and there is not a single draft in the room.

The basis of ecowool is natural components: paper, which is similar in characteristics to wood, takes up 80% of its composition. Despite this, the material saves heat well and is in no way inferior in efficiency to synthetic insulation.

Ecowool also contains borax. This is an antiseptic that fights various fungi and microorganisms, and of natural origin. Therefore, when insulating with such a product, you should not worry about the possible appearance of fungus or mold; with borax in the composition of ecowool, this will not happen.

Ecowool insulation requires a fairly thin layer, but this is enough to provide high thermal insulation and block noise. The material will last for a good ten years without deteriorating its characteristics. Taking all this into account, the high price of ecowool is fully justified by its properties and durability.

Polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The most progressive and reliable substance for insulating a cold attic and other rooms is polyurethane foam. It surpasses in its properties all of the above listed insulation materials. It is advantageous in that during installation it does not provide any gaps, joints, or cracks through which cold air flows penetrate into the living space. It is one of the most durable materials, with correct installation it will serve the house for at least 30 years.

This material does not shrink, even with wooden roof near the house, which is characterized by deformation over time. Polyurethane foam has a solid structure, which ensures its complete moisture resistance. Therefore, when insulating with this material, there is no need to additionally install a layer for insulation from steam and moisture.

With all these advantages, polyurethane foam has one significant disadvantage, due to which it is not always used for insulating residential premises from the inside. To apply this substance, a special, rather expensive technique is required. Buy it yourself for construction work doesn't make sense, it's easier and cheaper to rent.

The application of a thermal insulation layer of polyurethane foam should be entrusted to a person who has experience working with this material. After all, this is not very simple and requires some skill. You won't be able to insulate an attic on your own.

Expanded polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene foam for insulation

No less popular is the use of polystyrene foam. This is a unique material that has a number of positive aspects. You can insulate any attic with extruded polystyrene foam yourself. The material is quite light and fits perfectly on any surface.

If installed correctly, the product will reliably protect the room from the cold and will last for decades. In order for the attic insulation of a private house to be insulated with polystyrene foam, top level, you just need to follow the basic rules of installation and preparation.

How to carry out insulation work?

Effective insulation attic

Each insulation has its own nuances, features and installation rules. It should be installed following the manufacturer's recommendations. But there is also general rules insulation process, which do not depend on the substance chosen for insulation. Several mandatory stages are always present in them.

The first layer is to install waterproofing material. It provides protection against destruction due to moisture penetration. The special film must be laid overlapping, with a good overlap of one layer over the other by at least 10-15 cm. A construction stapler will help securely secure the material. At the joints of the film, it can be further strengthened with tape.

If the project provides for it and there is a need for it, then the sheathing is filled. Ordinary wooden slats are suitable; their width can be from 8 to 10 cm. The slats are fixed to the rafters in strictly parallel rows. The distance between the slats is about half a meter. Each component of the sheathing must be checked using a building level, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid the appearance of defects and defects in the roof during its further operation.

Next comes the turn of the heat-insulating substance itself. It is mounted on the sheathing or rafters; the method of fastening depends on the type and characteristics of the material. If it is presented in the form of rolls (for example, mineral wool), then it is simply cut into strips of the required size so as to be distributed between the rafters.

Important! The thickness of the insulation used for attic floor must match the width of the joist.

The ratio of the thickness of the material and the space must be taken into account, first of all, when insulating the attic space with mineral wool and then installing drywall. In this option, the entire space must be filled with insulating material.

This multi-layer pie-like structure is completed by a layer of protective film material against steam. Perfect for her role polyethylene film, you can also use glassine or roofing felt. When laying a vapor barrier, just like when installing a film for waterproofing, the film is overlapped. But they fasten it not with a stapler, but by wooden slats small thickness. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. The joints are insulated by gluing with tape.

Now all that remains is to execute finishing coat. It is attached directly to the bars or to the sheathing. At this stage you should consider the weight decorative elements. If rather heavy materials are selected, then for their reliable fastening you will have to install an additional frame, for example, from metal profile.

As additional thermal insulation for the attic floor, an excellent option is isospan FS, FD, FX for the attic floor. All types not only have vapor barrier functions, but also combine the effect of reflecting thermal infrared radiation.

The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic

Attic insulation scheme

In order for insulation work carried out on your own to be truly enjoyable, you must follow the basic rules for carrying it out. Key moment– this is laying a waterproofing layer, because without it, all materials that can get wet and dry lead to the penetration of cold into the room.

To avoid negative consequences or at least minimize them, you should listen to the advice of experts:

1. Before starting work on insulating the attic, you need to check the angle of the roof. If it is less than 13 degrees, then precipitation will begin to accumulate on such a roof - snow and rainwater. Stagnation of moisture will provoke the appearance of rust spots, cracks, crevices, and moisture seepage. These phenomena will damage the insulation.
2. Insulating the attic walls and the roof itself with special insulating compounds is an important part of the work, but you should not limit yourself to this. It is equally important to insulate windows, preferably according to the Swedish scheme. Perfect option– entrust this to specialists, then there will be no leaks. And you certainly shouldn’t insulate windows yourself if they are not located strictly vertically, but at an angle.
3. We should not forget that any material for thermal insulation requires ventilation. It is also important to ensure that it can dry out if it gets wet. To allow air to circulate, you will need to leave a gap of a couple of centimeters between the insulation layer and the roof.
4. It is necessary to observe the sequence and number of layers for insulation from steam and water; you cannot skip any of them.
5. If the height of the rafters is not enough due to an impressive layer of thermal insulation material, it is necessary to increase it by installing special slats. It is quite possible to do this yourself.

So simple, but important tips will be able to help with insulation work, ensure its high quality, the absence of errors and miscalculations that will have to be corrected and redone. If you are not confident in your own abilities, have sufficient experience repair work, it is best to invite a professional to arrange the attic. His services will not be cheap, but the results will be excellent.

A house with an attic is often the dream of every homeowner. In the attic room you can arrange both a bedroom and an office. But to create comfortable and cozy rooms, first of all it is worth making repairs, including insulating the attic from the inside.

Insulating an attic is a responsible and time-consuming job. Of course, you can entrust this process to specialists, but you can insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

When performing various repairs, in particular insulating the attic from the inside, you should decide what the premises will be equipped for. It should be understood that due to the absence of a “thermal cushion” in the upper part, which was replaced by ceiling windows, the room is quite cold in nature. Based on this, insulation must be performed efficiently.

And here some difficulties arise. Each building has its own individual architecture; it is necessary to take into account the shape of the roof and the physical characteristics of the material of the roof and walls. Difficulties often arise from uneven surfaces. And to drain the condensate, it is necessary to make waterproofing. It should also be taken into account that after end walls Attics receive more heat, which is why they also require insulation.

Which insulation to choose for the attic

Having decided on the specifics of choosing a room, it is worth deciding on the choice of materials, namely, how to insulate the attic from the inside. So, the choice of material can be influenced by some undeniable factors, namely:

• roof parameters;
• roof structure;
• climatic features.

So, there are several types of materials that can be used to insulate the attic from the inside:

• Polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest and most popular types of insulation material. Easy to install. However, its vapor permeability is significantly reduced. It can be seen from this that when using this type of material, the room may be exposed to dampness, and as the rafters dry out, unwanted gaps may form;

Read detailed instructions on how to insulate an attic from the inside with polystyrene foam.

• Expanded polystyrene. An analogue of polystyrene foam, but with slightly increased physical strength characteristics. It is quite durable, retains its shape well, is not afraid of high humidity and, very importantly, does not burn. It deserves special attention that insulation requires a not very thick layer - 5-10 cm.



Mineral wool is absolutely ideal solution in all its parameters. It has a high density, is moisture resistant, has the property of fire safety and weakly transmits heat. This material is more durable, and if we consider it as a sound insulator, it is more effective. Vata can withstand low temperatures. However, when working with it, special precautions should be taken into account;

• Cellulose wool (ecowool) refers to a heat insulator made from dust-free materials. It contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulating layer and the wood in contact with it. Ecowool is able to penetrate into the smallest voids, filling them. This is an environmentally friendly material that can “breathe”; moreover, it is not afraid of moisture and does not support combustion. Ecowool is not harmful to health, unlike mineral wool, for example;
  

  

• Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying to absolutely any surface. Using this material to insulate the attic, you can create a monolithic layer without existing gaps;
• Foil materials that function not only as insulation, but also work as a mirror reflector that prevents heat from escaping outside. To create the desired effect, this material should be deployed with an aluminum coating inside the room, leaving a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

Of course, when choosing material for insulation, the last word belongs to the owner of the house. When working with any insulating material, safety precautions must be observed. Required: gloves, safety glasses and long sleeves.

Stages of insulating an attic from the inside

The process of insulating an attic takes place in several stages, in addition to choosing the material:

• Roof insulation;
• Insulation of walls;
• Floor insulation.

Roof insulation in the attic

First, it’s worth telling what the process of insulating an attic roof from the inside should consist of. Stages of work:

• Main roof covering;
• Waterproofing device;
• Laying thermal insulation;
• Vapor barrier;
• Finishing work.

The initial stage, after the existing main roof covering, is waterproofing, which is laid along the entire height of the supports, from the bottom to the very ridge of the roof. Before laying the material, all wooden roof elements are treated with an antiseptic. If there are rotten or moldy parts, they must be replaced. Knowing the coefficient of thermal conductivity, you should make a decision to eliminate possible heat loss, whether one layer of insulation will be enough or whether it is worth laying a second layer. In the place where the insulation is laid to ensure ventilation, when installing this material, a gap is left between it and the roof. If the roofing material is wave-shaped (tiles, metal tiles), then the layer is left at least 2.5 cm. And if the roof is made of flat-format material (steel sheets, rolled materials), the space between the insulation and the roof should be doubled.

Thermal insulation is carried out by laying the selected material on top of the waterproofing layer.

The next stage is vapor barrier. The material is a special film, which appearance It can be like a regular film, or it can be in the form of a membrane, foil or perforated film. The film is attached to the rafters using a construction stapler.

Decoration of the premises. On at this stage the following occurs: fastening of plastic, drywall, lining, moisture-resistant chipboard, fiberboard or plywood sheets. At the same time, it needs to be fastened close to the vapor barrier, or it can be mounted on a thin type sheathing made of individual slats. Then, if necessary and desired, you can paste wallpaper, varnish or paint.

Insulation of walls in the attic from the inside

Insulation of attic walls is carried out when the roof does not reach part of the floor. So, when insulating walls, you should go through several stages to achieve the final result:

Treating wood with antiseptic

• Treating walls with an antiseptic, removing dust and dirt;
• Sheathing the roof surface from the inside using beams or untreated boards;
• Waterproofing;
• Laying a layer of selected insulation;
• Vapor barrier layer;
• Wall decoration.

A distinctive feature of wall insulation work is the absence of sheathing, unlike the roof. The rest of the process follows the same method as insulating the attic roof.

After treating the walls with an antiseptic, a vertical frame is installed on the surface of the walls made of timber or untreated boards. The beam is attached to the wall using metal corners or dowels.

Waterproofing walls involves laying material into the cells of the frame. Afterwards, the first layer of the selected insulation is formed.

The vapor barrier layer is fixed on top of the first layer of insulation. The vapor barrier material is a film, as mentioned above, which should fit tightly, without any sagging.

Wall finishing is carried out using facing materials: OSB boards, plasterboard, which are attached to a frame made of metal profiles or wooden blocks.

Insulating the floor in the attic

Basically, the attic floor is made in the form of a wooden structure. And to create complete and final comfort in the room, the floor also needs to be insulated. And floor insulation also takes place in several stages:

• Removing old floor covering;
• Inspection of logs, detection of damage and defects, elimination of defects;
• Fixing the vapor barrier film;
• Laying the first layer of insulation;
• Laying the second layer of vapor barrier;
• Sheathing joists.

The vapor barrier film is installed along the entire length and width of the insulated surface. The film is attached construction stapler. In this case, the film must exactly follow all the lines of the joist system, closely adjacent to the beams.

The first layer of insulation must be laid between the joists. Next comes the stage of laying a vapor barrier layer, which will become the second layer. Accordingly, the vapor barrier material is laid on top of the insulation.

And the final stage will be facing the logs using front coverings made of OSB boards or wooden boards.

Video to help: insulating the attic with Isover mineral wool Profi 100 mm and Ursa Pure One 50 mm

The video shows the process of insulating the attic floor from the inside with two mineral wool-based insulation materials - Isover Profi 100 mm and Ursa Pure One 50 mm. The total insulation layer is 250 mm. To fix the insulation between the rafters, a lathing (beam 50×40 mm) is used, and garden twine is additionally used to reduce the sagging of the mineral wool, which is attached to the beam using a stapler.

It is a known fact that in Russia, at least 5 months a year (in the northern regions - all 8) a heating system operates in any living space of the house. And in the open air at this time there is a noticeable cold. And, if we are talking about the attic, which has the largest area of ​​​​contact with the open atmosphere, then you should take this seriously. After all, in winter there is a serious temperature difference on both sides of the roof and the gables of the attic, which is why the heat flow always moves towards the source of the cold - out. And the task of insulating the attic is to stop this flow and minimize heat loss, for which purpose materials with low thermal conductivity are used, in simple terms - insulation.

But it's not that simple! Therefore, first of all, it is important to decide which insulation is best for the attic - based on the materials of its manufacture, planned operation and expected internal temperature. With us you will easily understand everything!

Requirements for attic insulation

So, what insulation can be called the best for an attic roof? It all depends on what exactly you expect from it, because for thermal insulation of the attic of baths and saunas, where fire-hazardous chimneys pass, it is difficult to come up with something better than basalt insulation, which can withstand up to 1000°C, but for insulating an ordinary attic summer house This is a losing option: mice will eat everything. But what do you need?

Each material has its own valuable properties and disadvantages. When choosing a material for attic insulation, most people are interested in such aspects as:

1. Thermal insulation qualities.
2. Economical.
3. Durability.
4. Ease of installation.
5. Water-repellent properties.
6. Noise insulation
7. Versatility

But let's approach this issue from a professional perspective. Of course, the most valuable quality is still the ability of the insulation to retain heat:

The second important point: is it possible to insulate both the pitched walls of the attic and the floors with the same insulation? Therefore, pay attention: if the name of any insulation contains the word “station wagon”, then it can be used both for roof insulation and for walls, floors and ceilings. For finishing the attic - this is the most best option: we buy the material we like and immediately finish the walls, gables, and floor. Fast, and less problematic - now all insulation will have the same properties and will last the same long time.

And now about sound absorption. But why does the roof need soundproofing, since there are no neighbors behind it, no trampling feet? Let's put it this way: for those whose house has a metal roofing (profile, metal tile), and it has rained at least once, such questions do not arise. It is clear that a non-residential attic can still be left without sound insulation, but when arranging a residential attic, it is important to understand that comfort is, first of all, silence.

The choice of insulation for the attic directly depends on what its supporting structure is made of: reinforced concrete, metal or wood. And the more flammable the material of the same rafters, the less flammable the insulation should be, so that later the “bohemian” space does not burst into flames like a match.

And finally, for attic insulation, due to the presence of constant water vapor in the room, the most valuable quality is still hydrophobicity:

Now let’s talk about which insulation material is most suitable for the attic roof of your particular home.

How do you insulate an attic today?

The most popular materials for attic insulation are insulation based on mineral wool and fiberglass, and newer and still little studied in everyday life are ecowool, foil boards and natural materials.

Glass wool: you want it and it hurts

Fiberglass wool is one of the most inexpensive options. Its installation is simple, there is no toxicity to humans when closed, and the lack of organic matter makes such insulation unattractive to small rodents. And the most important thing is that glass wool has a second degree of fire safety, which is quite a lot.

The only significant drawback is fine glass dust, which gets on the mucous membranes of the eyes and causes damage, and the skin begins to itch very much. Those. For such work, you cannot do without special closed clothing, gloves, a respirator and glasses with rubber elements. Clothes will have to be destroyed after installation work - no amount of washing will save them. Let us note that those who have ever, through carelessness or stupidity, worked with glass wool with their bare hands, then avoid it throughout their lives.

Mineral wool: priority is warmth

Mineral wool is much more flexible in this regard. It consists of synthetic fibers and small crumbs of stone, clay and much more. Fiberglass may also be present in it, but not much. Thanks to its light weight, excellent vapor permeability and low hygroscopicity, this material can hardly be overestimated. On sale you will find it both in the form of rolls and in the form of slabs, the most different sizes and thickness - from 50 to 100 mm.

Heat is retained in mineral wool due to its multilayer structure, in the layers of which air is retained. Moreover, this insulation is also vapor-proof, i.e. "breathes". And unlike foam plastic, small rodents do not grow in mineral wool.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that mineral wool quickly collects dust and is not resistant to moisture, and therefore its waterproofing must be thought out especially carefully. As for the fire safety of mineral wool, quartz sand can even retard fire if such a nuisance happens.

The most popular brands of mineral wool for attic insulation are Izover and Ursa.

Isover as an insulation material is valuable not only for its thermal insulation qualities - it has high noise absorption. That's why, if you are planning to equip the attic of your house as a nursery or home cinema, then opt for this insulation. Then your evenings will be relaxing!

Where does this property come from? It's all about the specially created air lenses of this insulation. And, as you remember from the school physics course, materials of different densities together significantly impede the passage of sound vibration. For example, after insulating a roof with metal tiles with Izover, the sound of rain will no longer be heard.

But Ursa insulation is supplied for sale in a convenient soft roll. As the manufacturer promises, Ursa insulation is made from a natural composition - fiberglass and quartz sand. Nothing harmful or dangerous to humans and environment there is no. And at the same time, it retains heat remarkably well, absorbs noise, and is not liked by insects and rodents due to its inorganic origin.

And mineral wool lasts for 50 years, without any signs of rot, bloom or decay.

Basalt wool: an environmentally friendly option for mineral wool

The safest and most famous type of mineral wool is basalt. Let us remind you that basalt is natural material, a stone that is melted in a factory and turned into fine fibers. Yes, this insulation really does not burn up to 1000°C - after all, this is the melting point of the stone. But mice really adore him, although at such a height as the attic, it’s easier to deal with them, don’t you agree?

Among the popular brands of basalt wool is Rocklight: excellent heat and sound insulation, non-flammability, ease of installation. In addition, the price of this insulation is pleasantly surprising, because... the quality is quite high. The fire safety of this insulation is excellent: it can withstand even temperatures of +1000C for some time.

Rocklight is also quite durable, does not cake, and its vapor-permeable properties are maintained throughout its entire service life. Fungus never grows in this insulation; the walls “breathe,” which is important for an attic.

Extruded polystyrene foam: an easy solution

Extruded polystyrene foam is attractive to many due to its simplicity and ease of installation, as well as the absence of itching on the skin. No discomfort! The insulation process itself looks like you are putting together a puzzle. But the price of this insulation, of course, will surprise you a little - the cost is low.

But the attic is rarely insulated independently, with polystyrene foam alone: ​​this material is more valuable in combined insulation. Like in this example:

Polystyrene foam: cheap, cheerful and risky

One of the most inexpensive roof insulation materials. First of all, polystyrene foam is good because it can be easily installed with your own hands, without calling any specialists, and it is especially convenient for sloping walls of an attic or roof.

Polystyrene foam has several density levels. That is why this material has good sound insulation, and therefore the loud noise of drops knocking on a metal roof can be forgotten for a long time. Polystyrene foam is also good because it does not shrink over time.

The rigidity of the foam used determines how strong the material will be under compression and bending. But the denser the material, the greater its flammability will be, so to insulate the roof, do not try to choose the hardest insulation materials - after all, you will not walk on them.

PPU: we reach the most inaccessible places

When the attic is insulated from the inside with sprayed polyurethane foam - polyurethane foam - the housing under the roof will be completely residential. And, I must say, this is really excellent thermal insulation, and many other qualities:

1. PU foam has excellent thermal protection properties: only 2.5 cm will protect the attic from cold sweat in the same way as 8 cm of mineral wool. Only polystyrene foam can be called fairly close in thermal conductivity to this material, which copes with its task almost twice as bad.
2. Here is another valuable advantage: when insulating with polyurethane foam, you will not need either a frame or special fasteners. And the most valuable thing is that PU foam has no seams, whereas seams are always cold bridges.
3. Also, if hoods and chimneys pass through the attic, around which it is especially difficult to create a seal, give preference to this insulation. The same applies to any complex shapes and surfaces.
4. And finally, what do you think is most afraid of? attic insulation? Of course, moisture! And it’s not so easy to protect yourself from it right in the under-roof pie. Unless, of course, we are talking specifically about polyurethane foam, which does not dampen at all and easily contacts any roofing material. And at the same time it is also vapor permeable!
5. Polyurethane foam also has excellent adhesion to any surface.
6. Unlike expanded polystyrene, which is close to polyurethane foam in its thermal insulation properties, this material is also vapor permeable, i.e. "breathes". What a valuable quality for an attic!
7. PUF is not eaten by mice, is not worn down by insects, it does not rot or mold.

The only disadvantage of such insulation is that it is impossible to spray polyurethane foam on your own, without equipment. You will have to either hire an entire construction team or get a competent contractor.

Natural wool: environmentally friendly, but problematic

Yes, in some areas, especially in the Caucasus, natural wool and felt are actively used as roofing insulation. And these are completely acceptable materials: wool felt is listed in SNiP as a vapor-permeable building material. And its insulation coefficient is the same as that of basalt insulation - 0.045 W/mS.

Most often, such wool is placed in bags, and in dense rows they are placed on the roof. But sometimes they are used in roofing pie as a full-fledged insulation, pre-treated to prevent unpleasant odors.

Wool in the Caucasus is very cheap due to the large number of sheep. Therefore, it is easier to insulate with this material, which can be found in excess, than to purchase ready-made and expensive ones. And the disadvantages are quite significant: these are insects and rodents that simply adore everything natural.

Ecowool: simple and environmentally friendly

Another very interesting new product is the so-called ecowool. It is made from newspaper waste, finely cut and processed so that it does not burn or rot. As for the fears of many citizens that newspapers contain dangerous lead, this technology has long been a thing of the past.

True, it is unlikely that you will be able to insulate an attic with eco-wool yourself - construction companies are engaged in this new product.

Now we come to practice. And the last question that you ask yourself when purchasing the selected insulation for the attic is whether to buy it in mats or rolls?

What is more convenient: rolls or mats?

In fact, the form in which this or that insulation is sold plays a big role for many ordinary people. Some people prefer to work only with slabs as they are more convenient, but for the majority, rolls seem rational: rolled out and secured, what could be simpler?

Let's put it this way: with roll material really convenient to work with. They rolled it out to the required length, cut it, and rolled the cut piece. They brought a new skein to the right place, rolled it out again, straightened it and secured it. Roll insulation is also convenient because, with a standard distance between rafters of 61 cm, the roll is easy to cut with a regular knife in half, and its halves will fit perfectly into their niches - just roll them out:

But in practice, for many, packing rectangular slabs turns out to be less convenient, which leaves the most waste. But it is easier to transport, and the insulation in it does not bend, like in a roll, which is a critical issue for many materials:

And finally: when buying insulation, be sure to pay close attention to the integrity of the packaging, otherwise you won’t end up with problems later. The insulation packaging must be completely sealed, slightly compressed, without a single scratch or torn film. This is the only way to prevent moisture from getting to the insulation before installation begins.

Now imagine what happens to insulation in poor-quality packaging: moisture and water vapor penetrate the material through holes and slits (and this stuff is everywhere), the insulation gets wet in places and changes its geometry. On site, you unpack the roll or slabs and begin installation, and then it turns out that the insulation, swollen and heavy in places, does not fit together in any way, the cracks are visible even to the naked eye. Having somehow suffered, you cover all this stuff with clapboard or drywall - and that’s it! We don’t leave finished insulated walls unfinished, even for several hours - why? And as a result, not dried insulation ends up in a closed and dark space - an ideal place for the development of mold. The consequences are usually not pleasing to the eye, but you will know about their presence by unpleasant smell from under in just a few weeks.