Installation of 90 degree interior door frames. Choosing trim on the door. Video - Do-it-yourself installation of plastic trims

In this article I will tell you how the assembly is carried out door frame, namely how to cut and assemble a door frame in two different versions:

Wash down the boxes at 45°
I washed the boxes down at 90°.

box with seal

An interior door consists of a door leaf, hinged hinges, mortise lock or latch, as well as the door frame. As a rule, the door frame for doors of the middle price class is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “designer”, that is, in disassembled form. The box consists of three profiled wooden beams, covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; horizontal beams are 1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.

For some manufacturers, the door frames are already sawed off and cut at an angle of 45°, just to the size of the door leaf and are completely prepared for assembly. But most boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.

Let's consider two options for assembling the door frame

Option 1. Sawing and assembling the box at an angle of 45°

Correct joining of the door frame in the corners

Washed down the boxes on the miter box

The door frame is ready for assembly

Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a web size of 2000 mm and finishing floor covering at 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finished floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
Check the box inside Box beams according to the required length of the canvas.
Saw off the excess at an angle. The cutting angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical beams of the box must be the same.
Do the same procedure with a horizontal short beam. The only difference is that you have to saw off from both sides. Be careful with the sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure twice, cut once.

When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.

Option 2. Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Door frame view for direct connection

Door frame connection at 90 degrees

Preparing for Direct Box Connection

With this assembly option, in vertical racks the future box is removed, the so-called box ledge, to the thickness vertical beam. See picture.

Assembling a door frame step by step

Assembling a door frame with a gash

After preparing the box, we begin assembling it.

Place the prepared parts of the box on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with screws, two screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90°, the self-tapping screws are screwed in at right angles (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo top right). The box is "almost complete."

In order to maintain parallelism of the vertical posts and the same distance between them according to the size of the door leaf, place the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, since it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.

Fixing the canvas in the box for its correct assembly

Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. There are several ways to do this.

Ways to fix the door frame in the desired position before installation

Method 1. Secure the door frame using thin slats. Nail the slats perpendicular to the posts, using thin nails to the very edge of the vertical posts. There should be two slats: in the middle and at the bottom.

Mounting angle for box assembly

Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid force angles with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the force angles, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal beams. But I recommend adding another fixing bar to the bottom of the box.

The assembly of the door frame is completed, remove the door leaf from the frame. Assembled box ready for installation.

That's all! Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Especially for the site:

Doors are often purchased in a disassembled state, when the leaf is separate, and the door frame is generally just a set of profile timber. True, you shouldn’t be afraid of this, since the process of assembling a door frame with your own hands is quite simple.

Door frame installation tools

rotary miter box,
hammer drill and screwdriver,
hand saw,
carpenter's level and plumb line,
Bulgarian,
pry bar, nail puller, hammer,
set of hardware.

Preparatory work

So, you already have a model of your future interior door and have prepared the tools. Now, in order to install a new door frame, you need to dismantle the old doors.

To do this, first remove the platbands, and then, trying not to harm the wall, remove them using a hacksaw, pry bar, etc. the necessary tool old door frame.

If her fasteners If you can't turn them out, you can simply saw them through with a sander. After this, it would be useful to carefully examine the wall to determine whether it needs to be strengthened.

If you find many cracks on the surface, and the surface begins to crumble under slight impact, then for the reliability of installation and durability of the new door you will need to additionally carry out concrete strengthening work doorway.

We take measurements and assemble the box

Without exaggeration, this part of the work when installing a door frame can be called one of the most important. Here you will need to accurately calculate the length of the racks, as well as the upper lintel with or without a threshold (the lower bar in modern doorways, as a rule, is not done). The width and height of the door frame should ideally be 2-3 cm smaller than the size of the doorway, so that the gap between the bars and the wall is no more than 1-1.5 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the opening dimensions are much more sizes doors and, accordingly, boxes. If the difference is relatively small, then a block of appropriate thickness can be filled across the entire width of the opening. If the discrepancy in size is significant, then the opening is filled with bricks, or part of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard. But in any case, to avoid unnecessary expenses and effort, dismantle in advance old door, measure the dimensions of the opening, and buy according to them new door.

There are several options for assembling the box, but the two most popular of them are with fastening the beams at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. For each of them different measurements are taken.

Advice. In some cases, when arranging the interior, it will be justified to use it - where there is not enough space for classic drop-down doors.

We fix the bars at an angle of 45 degrees

The length of the vertical bars in this case is the sum of the height of the door opening, the thickness of the upper lintel, the threshold (if any) and the size of the required gaps at the top and bottom. The latter are usually taken at 3 mm. Naturally, both vertical beams must be equal in length.

The lengths of the lintel and threshold are calculated by adding the width of the door itself, the thickness of each vertical beam and the same gaps. Remember that to fasten door frame elements at an angle of 45 degrees, you need to thoroughly calculate the dimensions, make the necessary markings, and then cut the timber.

The connection is fixed with a pair of screws into pre-drilled holes. The screws are screwed into the bars at an angle of 45 degrees, and if drilling is not done in advance, the wooden profile may simply crack.

We fasten the bars at an angle of 90 degrees

In this case, the horizontal profile of the door frame will overlap the vertical one. Accordingly, the dimensions of the vertical bars will be determined as the height of the door itself plus a pair of 3 mm gaps at the top and bottom.

This is for the option with a threshold. If the latter is not present, then instead of 3 mm of the bottom gap you will need to add a whole centimeter, i.e. 10 mm, so that the door does not cling to the covering on the floor.

The width of the threshold and the upper lintel will be calculated as the sum of the width of the door leaf, the double thickness of the vertical beam and a pair of 3 mm gaps. In addition, so that the protruding part of the profile on which the door rests when closing does not interfere with connecting the bars to each other, it will be necessary to make landing holes.

That is, the narthex - the protruding part along the edges of the horizontal bars - will simply need to be cut to the width of the vertical profile. To do this you will need a minimum of tools:

hacksaw,
carpenter's hammer,
chisel.

Accordingly, with a hacksaw you will need to carefully make a cut to the width of the protruding part of the profile, and then using a chisel and a hammer, simply chop off the unnecessary piece of the profile and clean the surface. Fastening is carried out similarly with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees.

Installing hinges

This is also a fairly simple, although important, step in installing a door frame:

Decide how the door will open (inward or outward) in order to choose the side on which you will need to hang the hinges;
Place the door leaf and frame on a flat surface;

Measure 20 cm from the top and bottom edges of the door leaf and make marks for installing hinges;
Attach the hinges to the end of the door leaf at the marking site, trace them along the contour, and then carefully draw them along these lines with a sharp knife;

Next, in this place, using a chisel, you will need to make a recess with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop so that the latter does not extend beyond the structure;
Mark the place in the made recess for the screws, drill the corresponding holes and secure the loop;

Inserting hinges into a door frame using a router

Do the same on the door frame with the second side of the hinges.

When buying a new door, you need to think about the installation process. You can invite specialists, but if you want to save as much as possible, you can always do the installation yourself. Let's talk about the specifics of such work in detail.

Installing a door frame is a critical step. From correct installation depends on how everything works door block.

Special attention requires installation of a door frame. Depends on this operational properties any door. Let's consider different variants installation of the frame, taking into account the complete set of the door block and the material used for production.

In order for the installation of the door block to be successful, everything needs to be carefully thought through, measured, and selected. Examine the opening you plan to close beautiful facade. In old rooms, walls and openings do not have ideal lines. The same can be said about new houses. Measurements of the opening must be careful from all sides.

Depends on the accuracy of measurements right choice door frame and leaf.

If the door is not manufactured according to custom sizes, you must select ready-made option, which has certain standards. After taking measurements, you can understand what to do with the doorway, which should not differ much in size from standard fabric. For example, with a portal width of 900 mm, 800 is possible. The remaining millimeters will be required for the door frame and technological gaps.

Having determined the size of the product, we select the door configuration. On the racks construction stores You can find three types of kit:

single leaf - you need to purchase the door frame yourself (usually wooden beam without decorative finishing), hinges, lock, extensions, platbands;
a leaf with a door frame made of the same material (solid wood, MDF), can be equipped with platbands;
full set door block assembled at the factory - installation requires only strength and assistants to level the door.

The choice of product depends on the consumer. The longest and most difficult way to install a frame is to purchase the first version of the door, when all the elements of the block must be purchased and assembled yourself. Therefore, let's look at this option in more detail. After studying our instructions, you will be able to install any door without the involvement of unauthorized persons.

Installing a door frame from the first to the last step

Let's assume that the walls of the doorway are already prepared for installation work, the doors are selected according to the size of the opening. For clarity of the process, a separate canvas and timber for the box was chosen.

Installation of a door frame takes place in several stages, starting with preparing tools and sawing off excess length from the frame strips.

Let's prepare a place for everyone necessary elements. A flat floor covered with cardboard or oilcloth is suitable for this.

For installation we will prepare the following items:

canvas;
timber - 3 pcs.;
extensions if the wall is wider than the door frame;
platbands;
loops - 2 pcs. (for interior door), 3 pcs. (for input);
lock;
self-tapping screws;
dowels;
power saw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
miter box, square, tape measure;
drill with different attachments and drills;
screwdriver with attachments;
hammer or mallet;
any building level;
polyurethane foam with or without a gun;
masking tape to avoid staining the surface or to secure some elements.

We have listed everything in general. Now let's look at the step-by-step installation of the door frame.

Preparing elements

Unpack the door leaf and door frame elements (if they are included).
Inspect the product and accessories for completeness and absence of defects. After installation, it will not be possible to return a defective door.
Place the door panel aside, we will need it later.
Lay out the timber for the box on the floor. If the parts for the frame are purchased separately, they must be adjusted to the size of the canvas and the opening.

This is where the process of assembling the box begins. There are several ways to assemble vertical and horizontal door frame pillars:

Assembly in groove

This method involves connecting elements with an overlap. A certain groove must be made in the vertical bar, allowing the vertical bar to be connected flush with the horizontal one.

One way to install a door frame is to assemble the elements into a groove.

Many factory models provide just this assembly option. You can also make a groove with your own hands if the racks are assembled from construction timber, not MDF blanks.

First, let's take measurements to cut the parts to the required length. We measure the doorway at several points. We take the smaller result as a basis, not forgetting to leave a distance for polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to know the dimensions of the door leaf, adding gaps for the free movement of the door in the frame. 3–5 mm on each side is enough. Let's take a door leaf 800 mm wide and 2000 mm high as a basis. The door frame must have the following dimensions:

for a door with a threshold - 806x2006 mm;
without a threshold, we will take into account a larger gap for opening the door - 806x2010 mm.

The door to the bathroom and toilet is usually installed with a threshold.

Installation of an interior door with a threshold is required only for the bathroom and toilet.

The remaining openings do not require a threshold so that movement is free of obstacles.

How to correctly measure the opening and calculate the size of the vertical and horizontal strips can be seen in the video presented at the end of the article.

In the upper part of the vertical posts we make recesses for installing a horizontal bar, which should stand upright. We calculate the length of the horizontal bar taking into account the thickness of the beam and the recess in it. If the width of the entire box must be 806 mm, the horizontal strip will be smaller. Let's assume that the beam has a thickness of 30 mm. We will make a 10 mm groove in each rack. So, 806-20=786 mm is the length of the horizontal beam installed in the groove.
We mark the size of the groove on the vertical slats of the box, making an indent of 10 mm from the outer edge and 30 mm from the top end.
Carefully remove the marked part of the timber. Do the same with the second stand.
We check the connection of the elements and the correct size.
We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes with a drill.

The first method of assembling the door frame is now complete.

The second method of assembling door frame elements.

This method has a slight difference in cutting down the rack elements.

Measurements are carried out using the same method as in the above-described version of assembling the box into a groove. The only difference is the length of the horizontal bar. It should be the entire width, i.e. 806 mm, because the edges will be filed at 45 degrees.
After the timber has been sawed to desired length, it is necessary to make cuts at the required angle. To do this, take a miter box, which will become a template. If such a tool is not available, make the cut by eye.
We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, driving them inside at an angle of 45 degrees.
Check the dimensions again.

Perhaps this is the most easy way door frame.

Assembling the box at an angle of 90 degrees is the easiest and affordable way to assemble the box with your own hands.

For self-installation He fits better all options. No special skills or special tools are required here.

Only the horizontal strip needs to be cut to a slightly smaller size, taking into account the thickness of the vertical posts. In our case it is 60 mm, i.e. 806-60 = 746 mm.
Connect all the elements together using self-tapping screws. Use two on each side. Don't forget to drill holes to prevent the timber from cracking. Drive the screw caps inside the timber.

Choose any method of assembling the door frame you like.

installing only the box in the opening, and then hanging the canvas;
installation of the entire kit.

Usually the second option is used, because hanging the canvas after installing the box in the opening is quite difficult and can only be done by specialists.

Installation of fittings and door leaf into the frame

The hinges must be screwed to the assembled frame. The hinges may be different, but despite this, the installation of hinges is not much different:

We make markings on the vertical post, taking into account the opening side of the door leaf. Step back 200 mm from the top edge and attach the hinge strip to the beam. Using a pencil, outline the outline along which we will make a notch to secure the loop. Make the same markings for the bottom loop.
Using a chisel, chisel and hammer, remove the excess wood to create the desired groove.
Try on the loop, if everything is fine, fasten it into the seat.
We will do the same manipulations with the canvas.
After installing the hinge, we lay the panel inside the door frame.
We check for the presence of the necessary gaps, place cardboard so that the canvas does not move while installing the block in the opening.

The most crucial moment comes - installing the kit in the doorway.

Installing the box in the doorway

At this stage you need to call an assistant.

The stage of installing the box in the interior opening is the most difficult moment. Be patient, attentive, careful.

The door block is quite heavy, and the work must be done with maximum precision.

Lift the product into a vertical position and move it to the opening.
Install in the opening, moving it to the extreme point of the wall. If the width of the box beam is not enough to cover the entire wall, installation of door trims at this stage.
Using any convenient level, we position the door block in the opening. For fixation, take wedges, which can be removed after securing the box to the walls.
Place spacers on all sides, adjusting the level of vertical and horizontal planes.
After making sure that the door block is installed correctly, secure the frame to the wall with self-tapping screws. To do this, drill holes in the vertical posts and the wall. metal box It is better to attach it to anchors in pre-installed dowels.
It is also necessary to secure the horizontal bar. It is enough to use two self-tapping screws for each rack. They will securely pull the door frame to the walls.
Check the operation of the door leaf. It should not touch any rack.
We move on to inserting the lock into the door. We have already talked about how to do this in one of our articles.
Coming final stage installation of a door frame with a leaf - foaming all gaps. Don't rush to squeeze out a large number of foam. It has the property of swelling, which can lead to deformation of the rack elements. Do this in small portions, moving from bottom to top. The foam should fill all gaps, providing thermal and noise insulation for any door. Before you start blowing foam, cover the uprights of the box with masking tape to prevent damage to the surface.
After drying, remove any excess foam with a utility knife.
All that remains is to install.

The installation of the door block is now complete. You can do all the work yourself, because it is not difficult if you have such a guide.

How much can you save by installing any door yourself?

Not all door manufacturers or sellers offer free installation. The price for installing a door frame and leaf sometimes reaches high levels. On average, prices for specialist services vary depending on the cost of the product and the complexity of the work. The figure can reach half the price of a door block. The cheapest door in a complete set will cost at least 6,000 rubles. This means that installation will cost around 3,000 rubles. We took the average value for the installation service. The price can reach high levels. Therefore, the savings when installing a door frame with your own hands are significant. What if you bought not just one door, but all of them? You can calculate the result yourself.

Double door it is installed in the same way as a single-leaf one, requiring only more time and hanging two panels.

There are no difficulties. Using the installation example discussed in our article, you can install an MDF door frame with your own hands. It usually corresponds to the size of the selected product and there should be no problems.

Door trims are made of natural wood, laminated MDF board or plastic. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages; you should select a specific type of platbands taking into account the specific installation location, the overall interior of the room and your own preferences. They differ slightly in price, but the difference is not so significant that it has a decisive influence during the choice.

There are several ways to attach the platband depending on the angle of the connection.

Joining with cutting ends at an angle of 45°

The most common and most universal method. Allows you to completely hide the places where the cuts are made and looks beautiful.

Joining with cutting ends at an angle of 90°

A very simple method, it has two options: the open ends of the cut are located vertically or the visible ends of the cut are located horizontally.

Joining with cutting of ends at 90°, elongated horizontal casing with imitation lintel

It is rarely used and only for creating exclusive interiors.

Fixation of platbands can be carried out with special thin nails with or without a reduced head diameter. Professionals work with a pneumatic gun, but it’s not worth buying one for one bath. The length of the nails is within two centimeters.

The second method of attaching platbands is using liquid glue. From the point of view of builders, both methods are equivalent; each can be used with the same quality of installation of platbands. A small advantage of using glue is that there are completely no visible fixation points. But the heads of the nails can also be recessed a little and painted over with a construction marker of the appropriate color.

Platband prices

platbands

Cutting platbands

It is better to cut moldings using a special trimming machine electric saw. The saw table is installed under different angles, the cut is perfectly smooth, there are no chips or roughness. Such a saw is relatively inexpensive, and will always come in handy during the construction of a bathhouse. If necessary, it can be detached from the metal table and used as portable tool– very convenient at any construction site.

Electric miter saw – photo

Important. When trimming trims, check the serviceability of the tool.

The saw must be sharp and even, preventing even the slightest wobble in the bearings of the electric saw. Press the side edges of the molding tightly against the thrust surfaces of fixtures or tools; the presence of even the slightest gaps will create big problems during installation.

Don't want to buy it? Then you should buy a factory-made miter box or make it yourself. The miter box allows you to trim moldings at an angle of 90°, 45° or 30°.

You should not buy a Chinese low-quality miter box. They make it from recycled polyethylene, and during cooling it shrinks greatly, and the position of the thrust planes changes. We advise you to check the device before starting work. Saw off several pieces in different positions, join them together with cuts and check the corners.

Let us consider in more detail the installation methods for both plastic and wooden or MDF platbands.

Prices for a hacksaw for a miter box

miter box hacksaw

Installation of wooden or MDF trims with the ends cut at an angle of 45°

Step 1. Preparing the surface of the doorway and trim

Using a construction knife, carefully cut off the protruding polyurethane foam; do not damage the door frame during cutting. You need to be especially careful when working around the visible corners of the box covered with self-adhesive polyethylene film.

Check the position of the plane of the wall and the box. Take a straight strip and check the position of the wall and frame around the entire perimeter of the doorway. If there are problems, you will have to solve them during the installation of the platbands. We will describe how this is done below. The ends of the lower part of the platbands must be cut off - during transportation or long-term storage they could get damaged.

For one door you will need four long and two short trims. You need to saw off with a length margin of 3÷4 centimeters.

Step 2. Mark the position of the trims

The door frame has rounded corners, a right angle only on the side of the extension. We recommend installing the platbands in such a way that the rounding does not close. From the side of the extension, accordingly, the corners of the platband must exactly coincide with the corners of the extension.

The platband should not interfere with opening and closing the door

Important point! Platband should not interfere with work door hinges and "answer" door lock. Place the trims against the door frame and use a thin pencil to make marks at the top of the frame. They will be located 2÷3 millimeters above the joining angle of the door frame. These marks indicate the height of the long vertical trims and the width of the short horizontal trims at the lower corners of the joint.

On the extension side, we recommend placing marks on the trim 1÷2 millimeters below the corner, this will allow them to completely cover uneven or damaged surfaces of the extensions. If the extensions are in good condition, then you can install the platbands flush to them.

We do the markings slowly

Step 3. Attach vertical trim to the marks and make marks on them at a certain height

Step 4. Cut the vertical trims at an angle of 45°

Don't give a big serve cutting tool, the cut should be as smooth and clean as possible. When cutting, take into account the width of the cut; in some saws it can be up to three millimeters. Step back from the mark you made by the width of the cut.

Step 5. Start nailing the prepared trims

First two vertical ones, and then a horizontal one.

The heads of the studs can be recessed a little and sealed with acrylic sealant to match the color. The same sealant can be used to seal cracks along the entire perimeter of the installed platbands and door frames and in the upper corner areas where the cuts join.

Important. The use of sealant to seal cracks indicates a low qualification of the performer. If you have little experience, then it is better to practice a little with cuts than to eliminate the defect later. Nail the first trims on the inconspicuous side of the doors, get some practice.

Problems may also arise due to the fault of the bathhouse builders; let’s look at some of them and how to eliminate them. Most often, the plane of the wall does not lie on the same line with the plane of the door frame. The door frame is either too recessed or, on the contrary, protrudes too much, or is generally made at a slope. In this regard, the platbands cannot fit tightly to the doorway; large gaps appear in the corners of the joint, regardless of the precision with which the cuts are made.

There are several ways to solve such rather unpleasant problems.

Wood sealant prices

wood sealant

Aligning the plane of the platband with the wall

The first way. The simplest, but, unfortunately, not always applicable. With its help, you can correct the non-parallelism of the planes of the wall and frame within 2÷3 millimeters. How it's done?

Step	Description
Step 1.	Place the trim in the intended place, press it tightly against the box. It will move a little away from the plane of the wall, estimate the width of the gap between it and the wall. If it is within 2÷3 mm, then the gap at the joint is removed without the need for construction work.
Step 2.	Place a pad the same thickness as the size of the gap on the work table of the saw or miter box. The lining should be narrow, not the entire width of the casing, just a few millimeters; it should only slightly raise one side of it during filing.
Step 3.	Press the platband tightly to the work table in this position, the lower plane of the platband on the stop side should rise slightly above the table. Carefully cut the end in position. The cut end should have a 45° angle to the axis and be slightly inclined towards the surface. Now, in the “broken” position, the joint of the two platbands at the joints will be tight, and there will be no need to seal the cracks with acrylic sealant.

The second way. Wooden trims due to violations of manufacturing technology may have uneven surfaces or warping. Of course, ideally their quality should be checked at the time of purchase. If the defect is discovered already during the installation of the platbands, then the warping is easily eliminated. Place the vertical and horizontal trims so that the cuts lie evenly. Drive a nail into the end, it will fix them in correct position and not allow it to move.

The door frame is too recessed into the wall. You'll have to chisel the wall - the work is dusty, noisy and dirty. Place the trim against the box and draw a line on the wall. Bulgarian with diamond blade or use a saw (depending on the wall material) to cut a line along the wall. And then you need to choose a niche for the platband. This can be done with a grinder, chisel, etc. Constantly check the depth of the groove. If in some places the niche is too deep, fill the recess with plaster or cement mortar and immediately place the platband in the desired depth position for a few seconds, this will help you make a niche more accurately. So you need to go around the entire door around the perimeter.
If you have a casing from natural wood and has a decent thickness, you can remove its back side a little with a plane. Work very carefully, do not rush, it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Video - How to attach platband without nails

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors

Installation of platbands with cutting ends at an angle of 90°

Cutting the ends of the casing at an angle is rare; such a door does not look very nice. Only completely inexperienced masters can do this. It is better to make open ends of the cuts on top of the vertical trims; in this place the cut end is hardly noticeable.

Sections must be sanded with fine sand. sandpaper. Sanding should be done carefully so as not to damage the laminate on the front surface of the casing. The cut areas should be painted over with carpenter's markers to match the main color. All other operations, except for the angle of the ends, do not differ from those described above.

When attaching the platbands with liquid glue, you should keep them in the desired position for several minutes. Carefully monitor the accuracy of the connection at the joints. Unevenness on the wall or problems with the quality of the platbands can widen the gap. To prevent this from happening, first fix the corner of the joint with a nail or place pads under it, taking into account the size of the gap between the platband and the wall. Only after this can you press the platband to the entire surface and wait for the liquid glue to cool.

Nail the first nail in the middle of the casing; this will allow you to rotate it slightly for a tight connection at the corners of the cut. Only after the corners on all sides of the door are positioned correctly can you drive in nails to secure them. The distance between the nails is approximately 15÷20 centimeters. You need to check the distance by lightly tapping the platband. You will immediately find out in which places the platband does not fit tightly; drive additional nails into them.

If during driving the nail does not reach the end and becomes bent, do not pull it out. Gently pinch the remaining part with pliers and rotate it left/right until it breaks off. Why shouldn't you pull it out? The nail could not be hammered in for a “valid” reason beyond your control, which means that the second one will not fully fit into this place. It is much better to hammer the new one right next to it, there will be fewer holes in the trim.

You can increase the tightness of the platbands across the entire width using polyurethane foam. Apply it with reverse side platbands in a thin strip along the entire length from the side of the wall, give three to four minutes for partial drying. Otherwise, the foam will not stick to the surface. Next, arrive the platbands in the recommended way. After the mounting foam has completely dried, carefully cut off the visible part; the gap can be sealed with sealant. Although, if you don’t overdo it with foam, it shouldn’t protrude. During pressing, the ability of the foam to increase volume is significantly reduced.

In conclusion we will give practical advice for working with an air pistol. It is designed in such a way that there are holes on the side for air exhaust. The piston is constantly lubricated with machine oil; when air is exhausted, it comes out tiny particles. When the studs need to be driven into the end of the trim, an oily stain from the escaping air always forms on the white wall. Be sure to place clean paper between the gun and the wall.

If you have platbands white– do not lubricate nails with oil, the oil will leave a stain at the entry point of the nail.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installation of MDF or wooden trims

Video - Errors when installing trims and interior door trims

Installation of plastic platbands

In some cases, plastic platbands are difficult to distinguish from natural ones; in terms of their performance indicators, they satisfy most owners. You can choose any color, thickness and width. The kit includes connecting elements for corner cutting, mounting and front profiles.

How to install them?

Step 1. Mark the mounting profile

The mounting profile is plastic product with special protrusions-latches for the front profile. There is no need to mark the mounting profile very precisely; it subsequently closes and becomes invisible. The cuts in the corners of the platbands can be a few millimeters apart; the gap does not play a critical role. The distance is taken as described in the above section on MDF installation and wooden platbands.

Step 2. Cut the mounting profile blanks

You will need four long vertical ones and two short horizontal ones. You need to cut at an angle of 45°. You can use an electric miter saw, a device for cutting at an angle (miter box), or an ordinary grinder with a thin metal disc. The mounting profile can be 5÷10 millimeters shorter than the front one. This makes it easier to take measurements.

Step 3. Fix the mounting profile to the wall

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.

Very important. The mounting part of the platband cannot always fit onto the box, especially a thin Chinese one, and installing it on the wall requires the ideal quality of the latter. The best option– the walls are made of plasterboard, sheet plywood or OSB boards. Plaster is the worst option. If the quality of the plastering “wants better,” then you will have to use a spatula to trim the strip near the door frame. Otherwise, the profile will bend in a wave-like manner during attraction, and this is unacceptable.

The mounting profile is fixed with self-tapping screws in special seats. If you need to screw in screws more often, no problem. Drill a small entry hole in the plastic and screw in the screws. This is what some masters advise. We advise you not to drill any special holes; the self-tapping screw screws in just fine. You need to start by fastening the center of the profile; screws are screwed in at the edges only after checking the position and correcting errors.

Step 4. Take the dimensions of the front profile taking into account the thickness of the connecting elements of the corner cuts

In most cases, their thickness does not exceed two to three millimeters. But there is much more, it all depends on the manufacturer of the platbands. Dimensions are taken from the floor to the corner of the box.

Step 5. Saw off two vertical trims at an angle, secure them in the mounting profile

One of the advantages of plastic platbands is that the front profile can be moved in the installation room and in this way its position can be precisely adjusted. It is advisable to install only vertical trims at first.

Step 6. Insert connecting profiles into the sawn-off ends of the front vertical trims

File one end of the horizontal face profile and insert it into the mounting profile. In this position, measure the place for sawing off the second end. Immediately keep in mind the thickness of the connecting profile.

Step 7. Saw off the face profile at a 45° angle and insert it into place

Electrical, telephone or Internet cables can be installed in the hidden cavities of plastic trims. Thanks to the corner fittings, the joints are always very neat; there is no need to use sealant to eliminate cracks.

It is better not to install plastic trim on walls covered with clapboard. If you really want it, then you need to prepare for it ahead of time. Before installing the door frame around the perimeter of the doorway, you should nail wooden slats approximately 0.5÷1.0 cm thick. It must be nailed carefully into the convex places of the lining profile. Make sure that the slats do not bend in a wave-like manner. When installing the door frame, you need to align it with the level of the slats. On the opposite side of the door frame, the alignment is done by adding.

We do not recommend purchasing factory-made boxes for a bathhouse; they are not very durable and can completely lose their load-bearing capacity during prolonged contact with water. In addition, the factory boxes are very narrow, in most cases it is necessary to install additional strips. It is much more profitable to purchase only in the store door leaves, making them yourself is difficult. And you can make the boxes yourself, and you will immediately select the desired width, making them stronger and more durable.

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of plastic trims

They can significantly decorate the interior of a room; they can be made from either natural wood (the most expensive option) or plastic or MDF. Plastic decorative trims have a full set of additional elements that simplify the installation process. With wooden ones you will have to tinker.

Decorative trims - photo

Their installation begins with cutting down the upper corners. When taking dimensions, you need to keep in mind not only the position of the platband in relation to the door frame, but also the combination of patterns. Some trims have special technological places to facilitate the combination of patterns, and some need to be selected very carefully. Especially many problems can arise during the joining of the top and side trims. If you have little experience performing such complex work, - better not take it. Don't waste your time and money in vain.

Video - Installation of decorative trims

The platband is a door element that performs a decorative function, covering the seam between the doorway and the frame. The quality of its installation depends on appearance doors, so you need to approach this process responsibly.

Types of platbands

Platbands differ depending on the material from which they are made. They can be made from:

wood;
plastic;
metal

Each of the materials used has its own characteristics. Metal platbands are made of aluminum or steel.

Plastic ones have a wide choice color solutions. They are cheap and can be installed using liquid nails. Plastic casing is flexible, so it is successfully used on uneven walls.

MDF trims have their own nuances when fastening. When using nails, you need to make blind holes for them so as not to damage the material during the nailing process.

The shape of the platbands can be:

flat;
curly;
rounded.

Flat and rounded ones can be purchased at any store. Figured ones are usually made to order.

Depending on the installation method, the following types are distinguished:

Mounting methods

Attaching platbands with your own hands can be done in two ways:

How to install platbands depends on their type and material of manufacture. So, telescopic ones are attached only to liquid nails. You can install the rest in one or another way.

Installation features

Installation of cashing is carried out after installing the door and finishing the walls of the room, but before installing the baseboard. If the box is placed correctly and is flush with the wall, then nailing the platbands with your own hands will not be difficult.

If cashing needs to be attached on both sides of the door, then start with the one where the hinges are located. In this case, when fastening, one feature must be taken into account. It is impossible to install the platband flush with the door frame, because the fittings will interfere. Therefore, an indent of several millimeters is made from the corner of the door frame. This distance is maintained when attaching the horizontal and second vertical strips. The installation of platbands on the doors from the reverse side is carried out without this indentation.

Joining of platbands

The vertical and horizontal strips must fit together correctly to ensure attractiveness. doorway. The platbands can be secured by joining them together at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees.

Cutting an angle at 90 degrees is used when the form of cashing interior doors flat, that is, it is a rectangle in section. It doesn’t matter whether the joining seams are located horizontally or vertically. After sawing, the sections are processed acrylic paint or varnish. An angle of 90 degrees is also suitable for decorating with capitals - decorative element, giving the door a luxurious look.

An angle of 45 degrees is used when installing figured and rounded platbands. It ensures perfect joining of horizontal and vertical planks. You can make such an angle using a miter box, a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw, drawing a cut line.

Tools for work

Installation of platbands is carried out using the following tools:

pencil, square;
roulette;
miter box;
hammer, nails.

Instead of a miter box, a jigsaw or hacksaw is quite suitable.

Installation process

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands begins with measurements. It is necessary to correctly and accurately measure the height of the opening. This can be done with a tape measure, then transfer the measurement to the bar or apply the cash to the opening and actually mark the place where you need to make a cut on the inside of the corner. External corner is defined as follows. The width of the casing is added to the inner side and the place on its outer side is marked.

Do the same with the second vertical bar. You should not blindly transfer the opening height values obtained when measuring the first casing. The distance from the floor to the top of the opening may vary.

In order to correctly mark a horizontal bar with your own hands, the vertical ones are attached to two nails: one is nailed near the floor, and the second is at a distance of a meter from the first. The vertical strip is pre-prepared by cutting at 45 degrees on one side. It is applied to the installation site, leading behind the vertical bar where there is no saw cut and in fact marking the angle that needs to be made.

After marking and filing the corners of the plank, you need to nail it with nails or glue it around the perimeter of the doorway. A fastening step of 15-20 centimeters is used for doors that are often used. For balcony or storage doors, 50 centimeters between nails will be enough.

Elimination of defects

If this is your first time installing platbands with your own hands, then not everything may be perfect. The cracks formed as a result of improper sawing can be hidden with wood putty or a wax corrector, selecting the required color.

Telescopic trims

Telescopic trims are installed on interior doors using special slots and grooves, which are provided at the manufacturing stage. Their peculiarity is that fastening is possible only perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, gaps will be noticeable, and the appearance of the doorway will leave much to be desired.

Do-it-yourself installation of telescopic trims is possible on doors with different opening widths. This is achieved due to the fact that the slot can not be completely inserted into the groove if the opening is larger than intended standard size. If it is smaller, then the protrusion can be filed down.

For openings with very thick walls, the width of the uncovered area is hidden using telescopic extensions.

Installing trim on interior doors with your own hands is not a complicated process. Knowing the installation process and types of cashing, you can choose suitable option in each specific case.