High-quality laying of paving slabs with your own hands. Laying paving slabs yourself

Sidewalk modules have gained popularity among the country's population. Correctly selected instructions and installation paving slabs with your own hands, will reduce the cost of landscaping local area and be proud of your own achievements as a builder.

Tile pavement covering - affordable, inexpensive material to decorate the area around country house, driveways. Thanks to the options:

frost resistance;
practicality;
resistance to mechanical stress;
durability;
other.

The construction market offers a selection of tiles based on color, texture, shape, and size. Picking up type of coating in accordance with overall design plot, create a single harmonious ensemble that will transform Vacation home and the courtyard around it into a complete picture.

The advantage of tiles is their durability summer heat, this material is not:

softens;
fades;
deformed;
releases harmful substances.

Sand between the joints allows rainwater to freely seep into the ground, leaving no puddles and creating comfort in the area.

How to choose sidewalk modules

When considering a landscaping project suburban area mark areas of different loads:

car parking lot;
access part of the territory;
area around the house made of tiles;
footpaths;
recreation area.

Based on the estimate received, the thickness of the fragments and the amount of material for the sand and gravel cushion are selected. Color tiles to be laid in harmony or contrast with the background of the house. If it is difficult to determine the color, it is better to opt for light gray tones - this shade is considered universal.

The quality of the future tiles plays a special role. Therefore, it is better to purchase or order roofing for the adjacent area through an online market from manufacturers or building materials stores. Read reviews from former clients, look at certificates, talk to neighbors and friends who have already encountered this problem.

Don’t skimp on purchasing tiles, because this material lasts for many years and looks attractive - the areas lined with these tiles are located in plain sight.
Looks prettier, easier to style due to Not correct form- errors are not so noticeable. Square and rectangular fragments are more difficult to lay down; here the deviation from geometric correctness immediately catches the eye!
If tile fragments are selected different shades, you can spend time, but lay out patterns or drawings.
Based on the drawn up project, you should carefully calculate the number of tiles, the volume of sand, gravel or cement. You need to mark the area using rope and pegs. Making such devices is simple and quick, so there will be no delays.
When laying the tiles, a gap of 2mm remains between the two segments. If the tiles do not fit tightly to the building fragments, cut them using a grinder using a stone circle.

Installation instructions

Correctly selected types of paving slabs - great addition design solutions plot, emphasize the relief of the territory and the originality of the created landscape. In order for this beauty to please the eyes of owners and guests, you should remember some rules for installing it yourself and competent instructions will help with this.

Required materials and tools

Depending on the use of the future site, tiles or concrete pad.
When choosing a coating, you need to take into account the external design and operational parameters of the product. The parking area is more durable than the pedestrian path.
Before starting work, you should carefully study the technical process and choose a tool that is comfortable to use with your hands.
Before purchasing tiles for a site, they draw up a design for the location of platforms and paths to correctly calculate the amount of material.
During installation of the tiles, a slope is made to allow unimpeded flow of water from the paths onto the lawn. The slope is maintained at 5mm per 1m.

Laying process

When laying tiles by hand, do not miss important points and do everything right. First step preparation of the base or cushion is considered. From the degree of quality preparatory work The beauty of the future site and the service life of the tiles directly depend.

We select excess soil from those areas where the tiles are laid with our own hands. If these areas are planned for laying utility networks, lay the pipes in advance. Crushed stone and gravel are chosen in small or medium fractions. If a pedestrian path is being laid, the cushion should be made up to 15cm deep. For parking, deepen the base to 20cm. These dimensions will be obtained after thoroughly compacting the poured material. Next, we prepare a sand cushion with our own hands, laid on a layer of gravel.

Step-by-step video of preparing the base for paving slabs:

However, there are situations when the soil on the site is difficult, there are many uneven areas, etc. Instructions on how to correct this point are presented below.

Having compacted the first layer, cover the area with geotextile to prevent sand from mixing with crushed stone in the future. Then the sand is compacted: a thick layer is not made here, 5cm is enough. Check the horizontality of the platforms using building level. Identified inaccuracies are additionally sprinkled with sand and compacted again.

If the soil in the work area is characterized as weak, geotextiles are laid in 2 layers: before and after gravel. This once again enhances the strength of the base.

The base is ready, now all that remains is to prepare the mixture on which the tiles will lie. This mixture is prepared in the following ratio: 1 part cement and 5 parts sand. Spread the composition on top layer of the last pillow 5 cm and compact.

Now they begin, during which they should Constantly check the levelness of the site with a building level.

Video: laying paving slabs with your own hands

The process of laying the tiles is complete, now all that remains is to fill the surface of the laid covering with fine sand and rub it along the joints between the modules.

Paving slab repair

Care for this coating: can be swept, washed even with chemicals. If one or more tile fragments are damaged, it is easy to repair the coating:

Get the damaged fragments;

Level the sand cushion;

Lay new tiles;

Fill the seams with new sand.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to show one video on how not to lay paving slabs:

To ensure that paving slabs last a long time, do not work in wet weather, do not use backfill other than sand, and do not drive cement into the joints. After finishing the laying work, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the site, crushed stone is poured and a curb stone is installed. For strength, it is filled with cement. The construction of a border will prevent the modules from spreading and loosening. The platform will be given special strength by a 2.5 cm mortar cushion, under which there is a reinforced concrete base.

The many advantages of paving slabs make it a material that is increasingly being chosen for arranging paths and sidewalks. Regardless of the purpose of the sidewalk, we can find thin and thick tiles in the form of paving stones. There are options that meet the requirements for sidewalks, driveways, and even allow you to make a road for heavy vehicles.

Unfortunately, despite the many advantages that this material has, it also has a rather serious drawback. The cost of its installation and leveling is approximately twice its cost. That's why many people are looking to save on installation costs by trying to handle the entire process themselves, especially when installing paving in their own yard, driveway, or deck.

Is it possible to lay paving slabs on sand without sand? How to prepare for work and what is required for it? Which sand is best to cover? How to avoid the most common mistakes and, finally, how to correctly lay paving stones on sand step by step? You can find everything in this article necessary advice and recommendations on these issues.

How to design a sidewalk surface?

Before you start laying, you should think about the layout of the path. You need to plan the width and pattern to minimize the need to cut the tiles. This will allow you to work faster and without unpleasant surprises in the form of cracking slabs, curved elements or installation difficulties.

Photo. Cutting tiles is quite a fiddly job, so it's best to avoid it if possible when planning your path pattern

When planning the layout of a deck or walkway, we must also consider water drainage. Can be arranged different variants water drainage:

linear outlet;
in the form of gutters in the sidewalk;
plan for elevation changes.

The height difference is planned towards the ground adjacent to the tile, for example, into a lawn. It should be borne in mind that the surface of the pavement should be raised above the surrounding area so that we can avoid its contamination by water flows, in addition, this facilitates the penetration of water into the ground. Correct location will allow the tiles, even after rain, to dry quickly and be always clean.

When purchasing tiles, you need to pay attention not only to their decorative qualities, but also to their thickness. Different sizes suit different purposes. Tiles with a thickness of 4-6 cm are used for paving walkways, sidewalks, or decorative strips around the house, while for surfaces with increased load (entrances to the house and garage), you should choose an option with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm.

Before you start, you need to prepare the following tools:

You will also need the following materials:

sand;
cement.

Carrying out the work step by step

Creating a sidewalk always includes several stages, which, depending on many parameters (type of soil, nature of use of the sidewalk, pattern) may differ slightly from each other.

Stages

The following general stages can be distinguished:

Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment.
Marking and preparation of the site.
Installation of curbs.
Laying tiles.
Grouting and final work.

Most installation work different tiles will be the same, with a difference in step 4. Depending on the type of paving: stone, paving stones or paving slabs, the material is laid slightly differently, using different bases.

Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment

Laying the tiles begins by transferring the project to the ground. It is important to plan the shape of the path or pavement, determine the location of control points, preferably where it is important to ensure that the pattern is laid correctly or where there are some changes that need to be taken into account. For planning, pegs and string are used to “draw” the shape of a path, platform or road.

Marking and preparation of the site

Work begins with the formation of a recess that corresponds to the course of the sidewalk. The depth of the excavation depends on the use of the sidewalk - the higher the load, the greater the depth should be, since the thickness of the base should be greater. The following depth is recommended:

for sidewalks, paths, terraces - the depth should be from 15 to 20 cm;
for more heavily loaded areas, for example for car paths, this depth is at least 50 cm.

The depth of the excavation also depends on the type of soil:

on sandy soils, it may be less;
on clayey ones, where it is necessary to remove the impermeable layer, the recess should be larger.

In small areas, usually excavation manually, and for large areas it is worth using specialized equipment that can be rented.

The earth from the recess must be carefully selected. Soil can be moved to the site, especially if its volume is large, and transportation will require professional equipment. It is important to select all the fertile soil layer, as it is very valuable and can be used to create flower beds and beds.

The bottom of the recess must be level, smooth and of regular shape - if we are planning drainage in the form of a height difference, the bottom of the pit should be properly formed when planning the drainage. The difference should be about 1 - 2%. Once all the required soil layer has been selected, you can begin compacting the site.

Installation of curbs for paving slabs

To clearly define the course of the pavement surface and give it the desired stability and durability, you need to install curbs. The edges of the curb are fixed on a cement foundation. Curbs take a lot of load from the surface, so they should be installed very carefully and diligently. They are a frame that enhances the surface of the sidewalk. The edges should be planned so that their surface is flush with the surface of the tile. The transition from the surface to the curbs should be smooth. The size of the border, as well as the tiles, depends on the type of substrate, as well as on the nature of the use of the surface. Borders can vary in thickness, height and strength.

Drainage installation

Drainage is installed on the prepared surface.

Water drainage can take two forms:

After the above work, you can begin preparing the substrate. This work takes place in several stages, depending on what kind of soil we have and what kind of surface we plan to create. Preparing the base can be done in several ways. The base consists of several layers:

native soil;
crushed stone;
bedding, sometimes without a layer of crushed stone.

After removing the fertile layer, the soil is strengthened. For this purpose, remove the backing with a shovel, and then mix this layer with cement. Mixing is done using a rake. After completing this work, compaction is carried out using a manual or mechanical tamper.

Then they make the base. This is a layer that can consist of a mixture of screenings, gravel, crushed stone or clay, the thickness of which ranges from 5 cm and above - depending on the use of the sidewalk. Then the base layer is leveled, compacted and the bedding is scattered on it.

Which sand is best to work with? The backfill is usually fine sand or sand mixed with cement. This layer is not compacted, it is simply leveled and installation begins. Sand will compensate for any possible curvature of the path, which should not be too large! Depending on the type of paving slabs - stone or concrete, and also depending on the type of substrate, these steps differ from each other, which will be described below.

Laying paving slabs should begin after opening all packages. This will avoid possible color differences between products from different batches. When laying the sidewalk, you should use elements from each package.

Laying tiles with your own hands - video

Laying stone paving slabs and paving stones

Stone paving slabs are used on open areas and in private households both for roads and on sidewalks, ramps or platforms. It looks very stylish and elegant, and works well in households decorated in both classic and modern styles. You can find stone tiles in the market that vary in size, thickness and shape.

Stone paving stones

Stone sidewalks require the use of stone curbs. Sometimes they also work well with curbs made of cobblestones, which, like others, must be attached to a concrete base. The base for paving stones is gravel, screenings or a mixture of both. A layer of fine sand is poured onto such a base and then the paving stones are laid. If the soil is permeable and you plan to use it for walking paths or driving with light loads, then you can abandon the gravel layer and lay stone paving stones on a layer of sand 5 cm to 20 cm thick.

Stone paving stones are laid 2 cm above the level. After installation, each element is driven in rubber mallet, then fill the cracks with fine-grained sand, sweeping it into the cracks. This arrangement is ideal for patterns such as waves, fans or circles.

If you plan to lay long stone cobblestones in a pattern with lines, you may need a base in the form of crushed stone 17 - 23 cm thick. A layer of sand is poured onto it and then laying is carried out.

Stone tiles

Stone paving is most often used in pedestrian areas and the process is similar to the paving stone installation above. The tiles are laid on sand, a layer of which is 15 cm thick - on permeable soil. An area with impermeable soil where water stagnates is not very good decision. Therefore, in this case, two layers will be used as a foundation: the first (which is deeper) - gravel mixture, i.e. a mixture of sand and gravel of various fractions (15 cm thick), and the next layer is sand in a layer having a thickness of 2 - 3 cm.

If we are laying large tiles, it is not always necessary to use borders. To stabilize the entire structure, cementitious fixation can be used.

Concrete pavers are the most popular paving solution today, primarily due to their attractive price, but also due to their good technical parameters and a large selection of options. Unfortunately, sometimes due to excessive patterns and colors in the composition, we get an ugly, tasteless and tacky result. Therefore, when choosing paving stones, it is important to think carefully about the design of the sidewalk or area with which it will be paved.

Concrete paving stones are currently produced in four thicknesses: 4 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 10 cm.

Depending on the purpose, different material thicknesses are chosen:

4 cm – for sidewalks or decorative strips around the building;
6 cm – for areas with low load (pedestrian and light transport roads for cars weighing up to 3.5 tons);
8 cm – for street roads and parking lots;
10 cm – roads for heavy Vehicle, buses and other heavy-duty vehicles.

Most often, concrete pavers are produced in various colors. There are exquisite options, the surface of which is decorated with crumbs, and the texture can be more decorative. There are also products that are deliberately aged or stylized, hence their great popularity.

The advantages of this material include relatively simple assembly, dismantling or repairing any damage. Concrete cubes are also very resistant to stress, abrasion or external factors.

Concrete paving stones

This type of coating is laid in accordance with the type of substrate and the purpose of the surface (pedestrian, driveway):

The paving stones should be placed 1.5 cm above the level, the joints should be about 2-3 mm. The seams are filled with sand and the surface is wetted so that it settles. This is repeated until the seams are completely filled. Then the surface is cleaned and, if necessary, compacted with a vibrating plate with a plastic cover.

Paving stones have many advantages, which is why they are often used as paving paths and sidewalks in private homes.

In the design of access roads, the organization of sidewalks and the improvement of courtyard areas, probably not best material than paving slabs. Strength, durability and stylish appearance This material makes it the most popular coating for decorating a suburban area.

DIY technology for laying paving slabs. Photo

Tiles are produced in a wide variety of types of any size and design, so design paths in the desired style won't be difficult. Despite the apparent complexity, the process of laying paving slabs is a fairly simple job, so you can pave garden paths in a weekend. Landscaping a large yard, of course, will take more time, but with a helper, such an undertaking can be completed in a couple of weeks.

Don't rush to get to work. First, understand the main types of paving slabs, choose the material that is best suited for doing the work yourself and will be in harmony with the design of other objects on your site. Note that now on the building materials market you can find stamped and vibration-cast samples. Despite the higher price of the latter, they will add beauty and solidity to your sidewalks, and will also delight you with their durability.

When choosing a material, you will also be faced with the issue of thickness, which different types finishing varies from 20 to 60 cm. Please note that the paths made of paving slabs on which people will drive cars, should have a minimum of 40mm coating, and access roads for freight vehicles should be constructed of material of the maximum thickness.

Don't go for paver, diamond, or brick tile patterns. Remember that strict geometry will not forgive the mistakes common to beginners. The color of the product can be any, but practice shows that concrete without dyes better withstands the harmful effects of low temperatures. In addition, the cost of colored tiles is slightly higher.

What materials and tools are needed for laying tiles

The consumption and quantity of materials required for landscaping the yard depends on the area being covered and the features of the landscape. You will have to prepare:

Paving slabs. The more accurately the calculation is made taking into account pruning, the less waste will remain, which will allow you to save a little.

Let's start laying tiles

The first thing to do is analyze the landscape and determine in which direction the site will be sloped. A slight slope must always be present, otherwise puddles after rain and melting snow cannot be avoided. It is best to make a slope towards the street, taking its level as the reference line. Laying tiles step by step will avoid mistakes and speed up the work.

Along the zero line, towards which the slope will be made, it is necessary to hammer two pegs and pull the cord, checking its horizontal position using a level.

From each peg to the starting point of the sidewalk, stretch one more cord, driving in a couple of additional supports. At the same time, make sure that they are slightly above the zero point. This will ensure the necessary slope. By the way, just a couple of degrees is enough to prevent water from stagnating in the area.

Stretch a cord between the starting pegs, parallel to the zero line. Remember the need for accurate measurements and horizontality, which must be constantly monitored with a building level. If you did everything correctly, then the threads will indicate the plane of your future path made of paving slabs with an inclination in the desired direction.

If the width of the area being developed is wider than the rule used, then the surface must be divided into strips. Their width is made 10-20 cm less than the length of the tool used. Marking is carried out by driving additional pegs along the starting and zero lines, pulling the cords parallel to the boundary markings. At the same time, strictly observe the levels on both sides.

Align the paving slab path so that it is parallel to the imaginary plane formed by the cord system. To do this, remove the soil in places that are close to the threads and add a level into the depressions. As for the distance from the ground to the cords, it is taken equal to twice the thickness of the tile. It should be said that this work is rough and does not require high precision.

Compact the soil along the marked area. Special attention should be given to sprinkled areas with a loose structure. The tamper used must be solid. For example, an excellent tool is obtained from the support arm of an excavator, to which a handle is welded.

Critically evaluate the degree of preparation of the area and begin preparing the sand-cement mixture. To do this, mix 6 parts sand with 1 part cement. It must be said that this does not require special precision and accuracy, so the components can be measured “by eye”, and the composition itself can be prepared directly on the ground. It is better to carry out the work in the off-season, since sand requires high humidity.

Distribute the prepared composition evenly on one strip and compact it. In this case, the height of the sand-cement layer should be approximately equal to the thickness of the paving slabs.

Under the side cords marking the edges of the strip, place metal pipes, providing a gap to the tensioned threads, about a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile covering. Maintain parallelism and slopes of cords and pipes.

For the next stage you will need knee pads, and since you will have to literally crawl on the ground, change into shoes and pants that you don’t mind. Kneeling, pass the rule under the cords and place its edges on steel pipes. Now to level the area, just run the tool along the steel guides. Add the prepared mixture to the depressions and compact it, then apply the rule again. This way you will get a perfectly even strip.

Discard convex, propeller-bent and concave tiles - they can be used for trimming. If necessary, distribute straight specimens by type and color and place them next to the prepared area.

Laying paving slabs begins with the outermost element, carefully aligning its edges with the cords. After this, tap the surface of the tile with a rubber hammer, pressing it flush with the markings. You may need to add or remove some of the mixture using a trowel or trowel.

Lay the next pieces in the same way, alternating elements if necessary to select a color or shape. Laying lead "from yourself". This will allow progress without destroying the prepared layer of sand-cement mixture.

Having finished one strip, begin preparing and laying the next one. It is better to avoid obstacles that may appear on your way using whole tiles. The remaining gaps will require trimming and adjusting in place. It is better to leave this work for later.

The gaps that cannot be avoided when laying tiles are filled with the same mixture of sand and cement that is used to prepare the base. Make it a rule at the end of the working day to evenly cover the surface of the laid area with the loose compound, then sweep it with a broom a couple of times, filling the gaps with the mixture. The process of eliminating cracks is called sweeping. If used colored tiles, then sometimes an unaesthetic cement coating may remain on it. This feature does not indicate poor-quality coating and is due to the use of dyes and the specifics of production. In this case, it is better to abandon cement and sweep the gaps with clean sand.

Even if your site has a perfectly rectangular shape, and you calculated the width of the stripes in strict accordance with the dimensions of the paving slabs, you cannot do without trimming yourself. To do this, determine in each specific case desired configuration fragment and cut it off using an angle grinder and diamond blade for concrete work.

If your plans include arranging flower beds, then their boundaries must be marked using a cord and bevels. In this case, the protruding parts of the tiles are cut off with a grinder.

The edges of the paths with laid tiles, flower beds and lawns will never look complete without borders. To install restrictive elements, dig a trench along the entire adjoining line. Its depth is selected individually, based on the size of the curb stone and its height above the level of the site.

Stretch the edging cord, maintaining equal distances to the tiles throughout the area. Thus, the necessary bias necessary for the aesthetic perception of the painting will be observed.

Using a rubber hammer and removing or adding soil, install the curb sections along the cord. To prevent them from moving, secure the edging elements with a thick sand-cement mortar.

Cut tiles are installed in empty cells near the curb and unfilled spaces near obstacles. In this case, the decision on the degree of pruning is made in each individual case. Since the soil may have crumbled when digging a trench to border the area, restore the foundation using a tamper.

In those places where the tiles border the gate, use mortar rather than loose cement-sand mixture. This will avoid moving the outer rows of tiles in particularly loaded areas.

Our instructions should be taken as the most complete and thorough method of laying paving slabs, which is used when arranging a yard or other large areas. If you need to improve sidewalks and garden paths, then the preparation and some aspects of the work of laying tiles can be simplified.

Schemes for laying paving slabs

A wide range of colors, many shapes and design solutions make tiles an excellent tool for arranging a courtyard area. Wide range of possibilities in terms of design and affordable cost are complemented by practicality and reliability, which allows this material to occupy a leading position among finishing coatings for many years.

The variety of modern paving slabs makes it possible to create various color and geometric patterns with your own hands, which significantly increases the aesthetic value and helps to adhere to the chosen style in the design of a suburban area.

You can create an interesting pattern by using several types of paving slabs and laying them in a certain way. You can come up with a drawing yourself or use the options presented below:

the first pattern is characterized by laying paving slabs in a row with alternating colors, placing one color along the borders of the path, and distributing others between them;
in the second case, two colors of different thicknesses are alternated in the form of a stretched letter M;
A complex geometric pattern in the form of a labyrinth or an alternating twisted spiral, made in a color different from the base, looks very impressive;
a pattern of repeating squares, diamonds or rectangles will help decorate your yard in a simple style, however, precise geometric shapes will not tolerate unevenness and will require special care from you when laying;
diagonal or checkerboard two-color laying of paving slabs exists in huge variations with different line thicknesses, sizes and shapes of the parts placed in a checkerboard pattern.

The proposed pictures have fairly simple but effective patterns that can be repeated by beginners. Using rectangular or shaped tiles, you can emphasize certain advantages of your yard.

It should be understood that the paving surface will look great even with the most simple two-color pattern. It is best to lay the tiles step by step, carefully and in full accordance with the recommendations of specialists, achieving a perfectly flat and neat surface. And vice versa, even the most expensive and beautiful finishing material, laid according to an intricate pattern, will look clumsy and unsightly if the work is done haphazardly, with unevenness and height differences across the entire surface.

Photo gallery

In the photographs below you can see what capabilities ordinary paving slabs, laid with passion, have. Combination color range and the pattern on the surface of the paths makes them bright and unforgettable. The implemented projects will help you decide on the color and shape, serve as inspiration, push you to start active actions to improve the local area.

Do you want to improve your yard? In this case, you should figure out how to organize the laying of paving slabs. You may think that this will take a lot of time and effort, but in reality everything is quite simple. You can pave the paths literally in a weekend, and you don’t even need a helper. Today there are many types of tiles for paving the sidewalk, so choosing the right color and texture is not difficult.

Deciding on tiles. Assembling the tool

When choosing tiles, focus not only on your preferences, but also on operational properties material. What part of the yard do you need to landscape? Ask the manufacturer: can paving slabs withstand heavy equipment, such as a car? Or is it designed solely for human weight? This is important because the path on which your car will drive must be especially durable, unlike an ordinary garden path on which only the human foot will step.

To successfully pave paving slabs you will need the following tools and building materials:

Cord-ordering.
Master OK.
Mallet made of wood or metal.
Manual or mechanical ramming.
Building level.
Pipe of any diameter or I-beam.
Wooden or metal pegs.
Broom and rake.
Sand and cement.
Watering hose or watering can.

Before purchasing the required amount of tiles for the sidewalk, calculate the dimensions of future paths and areas, and also think about the layout of the site. To do this, you may need a drawing of the tracks. The easiest way to create it is to transfer the plan of the territory adjacent to the house onto graph paper, and then draw the proposed paths on it.

It is very important that the paths made of paving slabs are paved at a certain slope, with the calculation of 0.5 cm per meter. This way, water will be freely drained onto the lawn or into wells.

Marking the paving area

After the drawing is ready, and the necessary construction material and the tool has been purchased, you can begin marking paths and areas.

Try to stick to the created project as closely as possible. If we are talking about paving paving slabs in the garden, then it is better to make the path winding.

To avoid cutting the tiles, make the length and width of the paving plane multiples of the dimensions of the tile itself. This way you can create a more durable paving surface. Then mark the paths. Use pegs, tape measure and cord. Don't forget to leave a margin that matches the width of the curb. Now you should dig a small ditch around the perimeter.

Walk along the intended route and think about whether you are completely satisfied with such moves around the site. Then you can proceed to the next stage.

Let's start laying out the foundation

First of all, it is necessary to remove debris, stones and a layer of turf from the marked area. To level the area of the outlined paths, you should remove excess soil in high places and add it to the depressions. While working, do not forget about the slope necessary for rainwater drainage. It is better to do it towards the street, and not towards the house. Level the base using a rake. Then tamp it down. If you have to work with soft soil, moisten it with water before compacting. This will help you avoid uneven settlement of paving slabs.

Calculate the depth of the base with a margin, because during the compaction process the sidewalk will shrink. Usually, for paving tiles, a 20-30 cm recess is made, based on the layer of sand and the thickness of the tile. The angle of the track can be longitudinal, transverse or longitudinal-transverse. At this stage, if necessary, carry out all communications. To prevent the growth of weeds, place geotextiles on the base before pouring sand.

Now you need to measure the height of the sand embankment, which cannot exceed 7 cm. Stretch a string cord between the stakes. Fill the entire area of the path with sand, and then level it using a rake. Fill it with water so that puddles form on it. If you are lucky and it is sunny on this day, then you can start leveling the surface after 3 hours; do it with a profile. In gloomy weather, leveling should be started only after a day. As a result, you should have a smooth and Smooth surface.

At the next stage, you need to prepare a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 8:1. The height of laying this mixture should not exceed 4 cm. For convenience, measure the indicated height of the mixture on the pegs and pull the cord again. Fill it in and level the surface using a channel. As a result, you should have a flat surface again. Compact each layer thoroughly!

Installing a curb. Laying paving slabs

Even at the marking stage, you had to dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the path. This way you can emphasize the accuracy of the geometric shape of the laying area. The ditch should fit 40% of the entire height of the curb stone, which also takes into account a five-centimeter layer of sand at the base of the trench. To improve the strength of the curb, install it on a concrete solution, carefully pouring the base.

And again, before starting the installation process, you should pull the cord along the chamfer at a predetermined height. Start laying paving stones from the curb. Pay special attention to the first row, strictly adhere to the height of the cord. Stick to the diagonal direction. In order to avoid trampling the base by the stacker, start the work "on your own".

Strictly monitor the tightness of the tiles; gaps of more than 2 mm are unacceptable. Of course, it is impossible to comply with these requirements on turns and bends, however, even here you need to make minimal gaps. Press each tile firmly into the base; you can use a rubber mallet to do this.

When paving paving slabs, you can use crosses, this will allow you to create perfectly even spaces between them. If you notice any unevenness in the process, use a trowel to remove or, conversely, add a layer of sand under the tile and tamp it down. To carry out these processes, use a mallet and a building level.

Once installation is complete, check the path for unevenness. If there are any, correct the deficiencies immediately. Now remove the crosses from the gaps and sprinkle them with a mixture of sand and cement. Sweep the paths and water them with water. Re-inspect the masonry, and if the mortar has sunk in the seams, then add it until it is completely filled.

It is unacceptable to use sand with salt impurities, because during operation white stains will appear on the paths and platforms, which will spoil the appearance of the masonry.

The laying of paving slabs is now complete! After three days, you will be able to begin active use of the new tracks! Now you can think about starting a business, because you have already gained a certain amount of knowledge about paving paths from paving slabs!

Do you have experience working with paving slabs? Did you encounter any difficulties during the work process? What helped you cope with them? Have you come up with an innovative masonry method that simplifies the process? Share your experience with us! We appreciate your skills and work! Write your comments on the article.

Video

You can see how to lay paving stones along a string below:

Photo

Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in a country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to high-quality implementation of both is correct styling paving slabs.

Many people trust this to professionals, trusting that they know their job. Is this so? Will a hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?

The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

It will be a good help step-by-step instruction, in which, in addition to the order of work, all the nuances of this rather simple and exciting process. Where the result appears with the first tile laid.

Preparation for laying paving slabs

Planning is a guarantee that a homemade track will not let you down for a long time.

Site layout. Few people dare to lay out the entire space on the site with tiles, just as it is difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. Perfect option- think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. This way the lawn is preserved, and there is no need to knead the dirt when it rains. In addition, you do not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.

Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground from other types of paving. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt from heating, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and is not demanding in care. The path, lined with paving slabs, allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil and soil (environmentally friendly).

Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that, according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibrocast (possibly self-production) and vibration-pressed (made in industrial conditions). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a base of different composition. All these factors determine the technology for laying paving slabs.

Tile covering of paths and platforms - parameters

A comparative analysis of tiled paving is provided in the table

The type of soil also influences the choice of base for paving slabs. Movable soil requires a device concrete base even under a pedestrian path, but the dense one allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion and under a car.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:

provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on a concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between the concrete and the tiles. Consequently, the possibility of swelling of sections of the track is eliminated. The optimal slope of paving slabs is 1 cm per 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage must be placed between the curb and the tile sheet;

correlate the size of the tiles with the dimensions allocated for the path. The wider the track, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout faster and easier, but in fact, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tile are directly reflected in the mass, the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such slabs are difficult to lift, move, or level. While adjusting the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;

lay (bring up) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, it is recommended to lay under the path in the most likely places where future communications will pass. plastic pipes diameter 50 mm;

Installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid cushion must dry out. Optimal humidity the base is the guarantee that the tile will not spread over time;

the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly level. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;

choose optimal size tracks. It is reasonable to select the width of the path based on the size of the paving slabs, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between them. In this way, it will be possible to avoid labor-intensive and not always beautiful cutting of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. Use of imitation natural stone, circular pattern, complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to think about the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.

Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings

To create a beautiful tile path, you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or diagram of laying paving slabs will help not only to visualize the project, but also to calculate the required amount of material.

The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.

Considerable room for maneuver is created by the use of rectangular paving slabs, with standard sizes 100x200 mm, “paving stones” or “brick” type. They give greatest number styling options.

Traditional options for laying paving slabs:

1. Geometric styling. Can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.

By playing with colors and tile layout you can create unique design garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and Old city, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge sheet, hexagon or honeycomb).

2. 3D illusions - paving slabs with a 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a clever technology for deceiving the eye.

An example of which is provided below, does not have a diagram in the classical sense. Involves laying out tiles in artistic disorder. If the tiles are monochromatic, then the size of the tiles varies during laying; if they are multi-colored, the colors vary.

4. Artistic laying of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of the diversity various options styling The complexity of the design is determined by the skill or perseverance of the artist.

Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs

For work you will need: sand, cement, tiles, curb. The following tools will be useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber hammer, long rule, level, tamper, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because work takes a lot of time focusing on these parts of the body.

Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs

Marking the site consists of determining the contour of the future path. The area around the entire perimeter is marked with pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out the tiles, it must be pulled strictly according to the level.

Stage 4 - preparing the base for paving slabs

To install the base you need to remove upper layer turf, level the bed, pour water and compact it with a tamper. Dense soil does not require such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.

Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.

The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For car path(platforms) the layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many people place geotextiles under the gravel and on top of it to eliminate the possibility of the cushion being washed out. groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of crushed stone. sand to level the base.

Stage 5 - Technology for laying paving slabs

Step-by-step instruction

1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or curbs

The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tiles from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.

The curb is installed on a leveled base. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).

You can install a plastic border for tiles

The border can be installed flush with the tiles or protrude a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tiles just above the curb (curb) by 5 mm, this is a gap for shrinkage.

There are three types of base:

Laying paving slabs on sand.

In this case, the distance between the curbs (or the tensioned thread if they are absent) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is watered with water using a spray bottle and left to dry a little. Next, it is leveled and compacted. The laying is done on moist, but not wet sand.

On the base prepared at the fifth stage, a second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcement mesh. The mesh is covered on top with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:4.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.

The composition of the “pie” is shown in the diagram.

Note. Laying tiles on concrete is not the best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water gets trapped between concrete and tiles and when sub-zero temperatures leads to deformation of the track.

3. Laying tiles

Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.

How to lay paving slabs correctly:

the tiles are laid from the lowest point upward;

The masonry is carried out using the manual method. That is, when performing work, the master moves along an already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;

Installation of tiles in a circular manner begins from the center of the pattern.

the beginning of installation occurs at the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: Entrance door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.

The tiles are not laid out in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.

When starting to lay, the first thing to do is pull the cord across the width of the path, and level the first row of tiles along it. The horizontal line should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.

"Planting" paving slabs The tiles are placed in the intended place and installed accurately by lightly tapping them with a rubber hammer. If the tile falls under it, add sand or a mixture.

The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). Exact gaps are maintained using crosses (but this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).

Some manufacturers have provided limiters (remote locks) on the tiles, allowing installation without the use of additional accessories at the same distance from each other.

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Appeared new technology- paving slabs that glow in the dark. Installing such tiles will mark the boundaries and make it safer to move along the path at night. Glowing paint is applied over the tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.

Another option for decorative path lighting is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the laying process, brick blocks are installed - LED lights powered by electricity or solar panels.

Stage 6 - Grouting the joints of paving slabs

In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the seams between paving slabs is done in two approaches. To begin with, pour a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand onto the laid tiles. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is swept between the seams. Then a layer of sand (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a 1:1 ratio (for a cement-sand or concrete base) is poured onto the path and the seams are also filled (spilled) using a broom.

You can purchase a ready-made dry mixture for filling the seams of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles/25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles/25 kg).

At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.

Important. The distance between the curb and the tiles is not concreted, and is also filled with dry mixture.

Note. Professionals advise vibrating the seams with a special board, but users argue that in private construction this is unnecessary.

Caring for paving slabs

It’s not enough to know how to lay paving slabs; you also need to provide them ongoing care so that it lasts the billing period. Simple maintenance consists of periodically sweeping and washing the paving slab path (to ensure that the colored tiles remain as beautiful). IN winter time Do not use metal shovels to clear snow, and do not use crowbars or ice axes to remove ice, and also sprinkle the path with anti-ice compounds containing salt.

Water repellent for paving slabs

The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role precisely in winter, when water penetrates the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, cavities, and color changes.

To prevent this, use protective impregnations - water repellents for paving slabs

Water-repellent compounds (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tiles from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only saturate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “saturation” with water (provide water-repellent properties).