Caring for an apple tree necessarily includes pruning. Moreover, depending on the season, the age of the plant and the gardener’s goals, the rules for pruning apple trees may change. For beginners, the process may seem complicated, but in reality it is not. Let's look at the nuances and find out how to properly prune an apple tree in one case or another.
For an adult tree, shaping ensures a good harvest, because in order for the tree to bear fruit generously, a lot of light and fresh air must enter the crown. And the fruits that ripened in the light become large and tasty, but the harvest from neglected apple trees is small.
By removing old apple tree branches, you give impetus to the development of young shoots, thereby rejuvenating the trees. Finally, pruning young apple trees improves their survival rate.
Main rules and general principles
Let's look at the basic principles of how to prune an apple tree.
To cut branches, you need to use disinfected sharp tools: it is much easier for harmful bacteria to penetrate through a “soaked” cut. Thin branches (less than 2 cm) can be trimmed with pruning shears; for others, a garden hacksaw is suitable. If the cut branch was dry, the branch should be immediately treated with garden varnish or other wound-healing agent; The cut on a living branch must first be dried for a day.
When to prune an apple tree
Now we’ll find out when to prune apple trees and what time is best to carry out different types of work. How and when to prune depends in part on the local climate.
Winter pruning
In winter, apple trees can be pruned only in southern regions with warm winters. Frozen cuts on branches heal very poorly and often begin to rot, so it is advisable that after cutting the temperature should remain at least +10 °C for at least 2-3 weeks. At the first frost, pruning should be stopped immediately. Accordingly, if you are not sure about your climate, it is better to choose a warmer time of year.
Spring pruning
In the spring, sanitary and formative pruning of the apple tree is carried out. Experts recommend for her the gap between the start of the movement of juices and the time the buds begin to swell.
Spring pruning must include sanitary pruning. Also, pruning apple trees in spring is suitable for giving the desired shape crown and, if necessary, thinning it. It is advisable to trim those branches of the apple tree that grow inside the crown under acute angle. If the sprout is located parallel to an older branch, it is also removed.
When deciding how to prune an apple tree in the spring, you need to take into account the nuance of crop adjustment: if the previous one was bad, the apple tree needs to be pruned hard so that it gains strength. A tree that bears fruit abundantly can be pruned to a minimum.
Formative pruning of a young apple tree in the spring is especially important - this is the best time to cut off the top, reducing the height of the tree.
Light summer pruning will allow the sun to better illuminate the already formed fruits. Also, at the end of June, you can pinch off shoots that are growing too rapidly so that they do not take away the strength of the tree. You need to trim broken and diseased branches as soon as you notice them.
Autumn pruning
Now we’ll find out how to properly prune an apple tree in the fall. If recurrent spring frosts are common in the region, pruning should be done in August: the trees will wake up later next year and this will protect the buds from freezing.
Sanitary pruning of an apple tree in the fall is recommended after leaf fall and harvesting - this makes it easier to detect damaged branches inside the crown. To begin with, it is better to remove large branches, including those that have cracked due to a large harvest. Then trim the shoots growing inside the crown at an acute angle (in winter they can break due to snow), and the “tops”, that is, branches growing upward - they are barren. If there are 2 branches growing from the same place, the weaker one is removed.
Types and patterns of pruning
Let's find out what types of apple tree pruning patterns exist.
Formative
The apple tree seedlings are directly pruned by specialists in order to “balance” the root system and sprouts.
How to prune a young apple tree? The first pruning of an apple tree is recommended a year after planting (when planting in autumn, it is better not to touch the tree until spring).
An annual plant is pinched as follows: the crown is cut off at a height of 0.8–1 m (with the exception of columnar varieties) and the shoots are removed at a distance of up to 50 cm from the soil. When working with annuals, it is necessary to shorten long skeletal branches, which should have 3-5 buds and be 16-20 shorter than the height - so that the longest branches are at the bottom and the shortest at the top. These tapering trees make it easy to harvest. Pruning for an annual apple tree seedling should be carried out before the buds appear.
In the second year we lay down tiers of skeletal branches. Most of crown types suggests that each tier should have 2–5 branches. The optimal distance between tiers depends on the height of the tree. If the apple tree is low or was recently planted, this can be 40 cm, for a tall one - 60 cm. Trimmings from a young apple tree should form approximately equal distances between branches of the same level.
When forming such a crown as a bowl, remove the central trunk to the first fork of the branches. It will be replaced by side branches, forming 2–4 “trunks”.
When pruning a three-year-old apple tree, remove excess branches, except skeletal ones. On a tree that is from two to five years old, branches are shortened by ⅔ of the length. In this case, the upper bud should “look” outward. Until the plant is five years old, all annual shoots are cut off.
If the tree has been formed correctly, it will begin to bear fruit within five years. They will appear on old, strong branches. At this age and up to seven years, skeletal branches are cut in the fall, by about a third of the length, which stimulates the formation of new buds.
For a columnar variety, the apical buds cannot be removed. The rules for pruning such a tree are as follows: each trimmed shoot, on which 2 or 3 buds remain, will produce the same number of large strong branches. If there were more buds (up to 5), the shoots will be smaller. If such a tree is properly formed, it will give 10–15 cm of annual growth.
In this case, when pruning the apple tree after planting, the side shoots need to be shortened, leaving 2 buds so that the shoots are as strong as possible. The central conductor must be fixed to the support. If there are too large shoots close to the soil, they need to be cut off.
At the age of two, the resulting pairs of sprouts are examined. The more horizontal one is left, and the second one is shortened again to 2 buds. A year later, the branches that have already produced a harvest are removed, and the rest are dealt with according to the scheme of the previous year.
During 3–5 years there is a ring cut fruit formations- this way we get a standard.
Almost every gardening forum offers pruning plans. different types crowns in detail, so that even a beginner will understand everything.
Let's look at how to prune an old apple tree.
Rejuvenating pruning of adult apple trees involves removing all branches that do not bear fruit so that young, “fruitful” shoots grow better. Is it possible to trim the skeletal branches? Definitely yes. Also, if the trees are taller than 5 m, you can cut off the top, otherwise the flow of juice and nutrients to the top will take a lot of their energy. Pruning a very neglected apple tree is especially important.
When deciding how to properly prune an old apple tree, keep in mind that it is wrong to cut off too many branches at once and more than 2 m per year - this will weaken the tree and only reduce its yield. This pruning needs to be done annually, but little by little. To do this, it’s good to keep yourself a care calendar.
Sanitary
This type of pruning involves removing diseased, drying and broken branches. This is especially important in intensive apple plantations, where infection can spread to many trees and cause greatest harm. It should be carried out already when you notice the danger. It can be done in any month, but this pruning should definitely be done in spring and autumn, when the branches are bare and easier to inspect.
In the fall, any branch that has cracked due to a large harvest must be removed - in this case, it will not bear fruit, but can serve as a source of infection. In spring, branches that are broken by snow or frozen are often removed.
If two branches are touching and rubbing, one of them also needs to be cut off.
Areas that appear burnt may be infected with black canker, a dangerous fungal disease that can kill the tree. In this case, they need to be examined with a magnifying glass: the diagnosis will be confirmed by small ulcers with dark dots along the edges. Such areas should be immediately removed and burned, after which the wounds should be treated with copper sulfate and covered with garden pitch. After this, the foliage should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
Video “Proper pruning of an apple tree”
From this video you will learn how to properly prune an apple tree in the garden.
Pruning apple trees in the fall is a mandatory procedure. Every gardener should have an idea of how it should be carried out. After all, the apple tree occupies about 70% of fruit plantations in private households and on the plantations of large farms.
This culture is distinguished by its durability, fertility, and can grow in different climatic zones. Regular pruning is directly related to the yield and health of the tree. It hardly makes sense to invite an experienced gardener to small plot Every year. Therefore, you need to know the simplest schemes for pruning apple trees in the fall in order to be able to take care of the trees yourself.
When to prune: apple tree in autumn or spring
Apple trees can be pruned in fall, spring or winter. Each period has its own advantages, the main thing is that active sap flow has stopped or has not yet begun.
In spring, apple trees begin to be pruned early, preferably before the buds swell. When they burst and have not yet opened, but leaves (the so-called green cone) are already appearing, intense sap flow will begin. If you injure a branch at this time, much less cut it, the tree can be harmed. In spring it is important not to be late. It is difficult to do this in the southern regions - there you won’t have time to blink an eye, and just yesterday the apple tree that stood naked not only blossomed leaves, but also formed flower buds.
It is not recommended for amateurs, and even beginners, to prune apple trees in winter. This is usually done by professionals large gardens– they simply have no other time. Everything needs to be done carefully, and trimming several hundred trees (or more) in a week or two is unrealistic. But finding a detachment of competent gardeners for a short time so that they can do delicate and important work, and then disband until next autumn is unrealistic. So they prune commercial gardens in winter.
Important! At negative temperatures near the cut site the bark freezes, peels off, and takes a very long time to heal.
It is in the fall that pruning apple trees will be the least difficult for beginners. It can be carried out in all regions except the northernmost, where apple trees are often grown in slate form. This is where it is best to prune trees in the spring.
Comment! Experienced gardeners can prune apple trees at any time. It is better for beginners to do this in the fall.
Are apple trees pruned in the fall?
So it is better to prune apple trees in the fall. Of course, if there is a lack of time, you can postpone the operation to the spring, but practice shows that at the beginning of the season there is already a lot of work. And in the southern regions, you can simply miss the right moment: yesterday it was still early, tomorrow it will be late, and today there is no way to make it in time.
Beginning gardeners should generally prune apple trees in the fall, so as not to rush anywhere and carry out the operation calmly. Then, if necessary, you can stop and think, re-read a book or article on the Internet. For some reason, the first pruning causes panic in many people. In fact, it is enough to have comprehensive information and a steady hand.
Pruning apple trees in the fall has a number of advantages:
- Injured branches will heal by spring and immediately begin to grow.
- When it's time to prune your apple tree in the fall, other work in the garden is usually completed.
- There is no danger that the heat will quickly set in, and the wound surface that has not had time to heal will be exposed to high temperatures.
- Beginner gardeners can take their time and pruning calmly. But a steady hand is of great importance during this operation.
When to prune apple trees in the fall, in what month
The timing of pruning apple trees in the fall depends on the region. Where the climate is hot, as in the Krasnodar Territory, or moderate (Moscow region), pruners are taken up after the leaves fall. In the Urals and Siberia, early and mid-fruiting apple trees need to be pruned from September to early October, when the harvest is harvested. Late varieties are left until spring - they may not have time to heal the wound surface before the onset of frost.
To make it easier for beginners to prune apple trees in the fall, there are many schemes. But, by and large, they are all very similar.
Pruning goals
You can't just plant an apple tree and expect good harvest. Pruning is one of the main stages of crop care. If you neglect this procedure, you can not only be left without apples at all, but also “introduce” a bunch of diseases and pests on the tree. Then the neglected tree will still have to be pruned, but this will be difficult. It may not be possible to carry out the procedure without the help of a specialist.
It is better to do pruning regularly, from the moment the apple tree is planted. There are:
- Formative pruning with the help of which the crown is given the desired shape and height is adjusted. Conducted for the first few years. After the frame of skeletal branches is formed, it is simply supported. If you start an apple tree and don’t prune it for several years, you’ll have to start all over again. It’s just that novice gardeners are unlikely to be able to carry out the formation of an adult tree.
- Pruning to regulate fruiting. There is a balance between the number of apples and branches, and the growth of shoots that must be maintained. If the apple tree is not pruned, too many fruits may form. Firstly, they can simply break off the branches, and secondly, they will be small and tasteless. In the worst case, a mass of small fruits will set, which the long thin shoots will not be able to hold, and the tree will not be able to provide the required amount of nutrients. As a result, the branches will break, the apple tree will be exhausted, and the harvest will crumble before it has time to ripen.
- Sanitary pruning. With its help, broken, dry, diseased shoots that thicken the crown are removed. If sanitary measures are not carried out, the fruits will not receive enough light, the tree will expend energy to maintain the vital activity of unproductive branches that interfere with the ripening of apples. From diseased branches, infection can spread to healthy ones. Dry and broken shoots not only thicken the crown and complicate care, but also serve as a breeding ground for pests.
- Restorative pruning designed to restore and put in order the crown after severe damage - frostbite, fire, mechanical injuries.
- Anti-aging pruning Apple trees in the fall will extend the fruiting period of the tree. It is even capable of renewing the growing season of very old, but especially valuable specimens.
Annual pruning of apple trees is usually called maintenance pruning. In fact it includes everything possible ways. Simply pruning young trees mostly shapes the apple tree, adults - regulates fruiting, old trees - rejuvenates the crown.
If you do not carry out proper annual removal, standardization and shortening of branches, the tree will bloom beautifully, but the harvest will be meager. It spends all its energy on maintaining numerous useless, fruitless shoots.
Trimming methods
There are two main methods of pruning:
- Shortening, enhancing growth and formation of lateral shoots. In this case, part of the branch is removed.
- Thinning, which consists in removing the shoot completely. It allows the remaining branches to gain maximum strength and bear fruit well. Thinning pruning also lightens the crown.
Trimming degree
Trimming fruit trees differs as follows:
- Weak: 20-25% of the length is removed from 1/3 of the young branches, 1/3 is cut into a ring, 1/3 is left as is. As a result, next year the growth will be no more than 10 cm.
- Moderate. At the same time, in the fall, from 40 to 50% of the growth of the apple tree should be cut off by 1/3, and the same amount should be completely removed. The result is normal growth, no tops.
- Strong. More than half of the young branches are shortened by half in the fall, the rest need to be cut off completely. Usually used on neglected, unkempt trees. Such pruning will contribute to the appearance of a large number of tops.
Reference! A top is a fatty (non-fruit-bearing) shoot growing straight up.
Preparation of tools and materials
Any diagram explaining how to prune apple trees in the fall will require a whole set of tools. All of them must be sharp and clean before starting work:
- ratchet pruner– for shoots thicker than 20 mm;
- ordinary pruning shears– for thin and young branches;
- loppers (secateurs with long handles) - for hard-to-reach shoots;
- saw - for thick branches;
- garden knife - used to clean the wound surface.
To treat areas where apple tree branches are pruned, use oil paint or a mixture of mullein and clay, diluted with a solution copper sulfate. You can take garden varnish prepared in a special way. Ordinary late autumn does not apply.
Comment! Wound surfaces remaining on thin (less than 10 mm in diameter) branches do not need to be treated.
Apple tree pruning technology
Video of pruning apple trees in autumn for beginners and inexperienced gardeners:
On a side branch
It happens that two branches form a fork and grow from almost the same point. One of them needs to be trimmed in the fall, using a saw for thick shoots and pruning shears for thin shoots. After this, the wound is treated. This type of pruning is called transfer (side branch).
On the ring
Both thick old and young branches often have to be cut off completely, “to the ring.” With young shoots this operation is easy. But with old branches you need to act carefully and correctly:
- if you leave a knot, many tops will form next year, the bark may peel off, and the wood may rot;
- if you cut it short, a hollow will form, and the wound will heal for a long time and badly.
Reference! A ring is an influx of wood at the base of a branch.
You need to trim correctly. On a thick branch, first make a cut on the underside of the ring, then remove it completely. Otherwise, this part of the crown will definitely break off when pruning, the bark will break off, exposing part of the trunk. Then the wound must be cleaned with a garden knife and treated with mullein with clay or oil paint.
A video for beginners will help: pruning old branches on apple trees in the fall:
On the kidney
When shortening the shoots in order to give them the desired direction of growth, enhance branching and form more fruits, the branches of the apple tree are pruned into buds. The cut is made at an angle of 45⁰, the length of the hemp should be within 0.5-1.0 cm:
- close proximity can damage the kidney;
- a distance of more than 1 cm will cause the shoot tip to dry out.
The shoots are trimmed exclusively to the outer bud. This way the young branch will grow outward.
Proper pruning of apple trees in autumn
There is no single scheme for how to properly prune an apple tree in the fall. But there are many ways to form a crown. The most common:
- sparse-tiered pruning;
- oblique and horizontal palmette;
- paddle trimming;
- Taganrog boat.
In addition, an old tree, a young tree, and one that has entered full fruiting are pruned differently.
The correct crown of an apple tree is easy to form and maintain only if you begin to care for it from the moment of planting. Pruning a neglected tree is difficult for beginners, and many mistakes can be made that will cause severe damage to the plant. It is better to invite a specialist in the fall. He will not only prune the apple tree correctly, but also give advice on how to maintain the crown in the future.
Pruning apple trees in the fall after planting
Immediately after a young apple tree is planted in the ground in the fall, it needs to be pruned. The main shoot is shortened to 0.9 m; if it is short, the top is removed. Side branches are cut off by 70% (of course, if there are any). Those located 40 cm from the grafting site and below are completely removed.
As the apple tree grows, its trunk will stretch. In an adult tree, the lower branches will be just at the right height to harvest without difficulty.
Pruning young apple trees in autumn
The formation of an apple tree in the fall begins after rooting - after 2-3 years. It should be taken into account that the most productive branches are located almost horizontally, but the vertical ones almost do not produce flower buds, and therefore no apples.
First, in the fall, the skeleton of the tree is formed. To do this, leave the 3 or 4 strongest branches growing in different directions, the rest are cut into a ring. The same operation is carried out with the second tier (if there is one). Skeletal branches need to be cut to the outer bud, shortened by 1/3.
Sometimes all the shoots grow upward. This can be corrected by installing spacers and tying the branches to them, gradually bending them down.
Pruning young apple trees in autumn, video for beginners:
How to prune a fruiting apple tree in the fall
By the time it begins to bear fruit, the apple tree should already be formed; in the fall, maintenance pruning is carried out mainly. First, remove all broken, diseased, dry branches and tops. Then the shoots that thicken the crown, grow inwards and weak shoots are cut off.
The apple tree is carefully inspected, intersecting and lateral branches are removed. The result should be a well-ventilated and illuminated crown.
Scheme on how to prune apple trees in the fall:
How to prune an old apple tree in the fall
Pruning an old and fruiting apple tree in the fall is no different. But if the harvest has decreased, the tree needs rejuvenation.
Old skeletal branches should be trimmed one by one in the fall at an angle of 45⁰, leaving a stump small size. This is done so that the tops grow in the spring. They are removed, leaving 1-2 strong and well located ones. Then they bend it to the sides using a thick rope and pegs driven into the ground. Gradually, pruning will form a new skeleton and crown.
Important! Only one skeletal branch can be removed each fall.
It is for apple trees that drastic pruning is often used, aimed at rejuvenating the tree. In this case, the trunk is completely removed, leaving a stump. It is cut at an angle of 45⁰, the wound surface is cleaned, and treated with a solution of copper sulfate to avoid infections. Then coated with oil paint.
Apple tree care after pruning
When the pruning is completed, in the fall the apple tree needs regular inspection of the wound surface. Old thick branches require close attention. When pruning is completed, they are treated with oil paint, a mixture of mullein and clay, or garden varnish. The procedure may have to be repeated several times, or even a bandage soaked in clay and copper sulfate solution must be applied to the injured surface.
After pruning in the fall in dry weather, the apple tree must be watered. It is useful to feed the tree with fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus, even if this has not been done before. Tree trunk circle mulch with humus.
In late autumn, the trunk of the apple tree needs to be whitened. Moreover, up to the age of 5, chalk is used for this, after that - lime. In the northern regions, the trunk is wrapped in jute or burlap - this will not only insulate the tree, but also protect the bark from hares.
Conclusion
Pruning apple trees in the fall is not the easiest procedure. For beginners, it can be fraught with physical and psychological difficulties. The main thing is a steady hand, confidence and knowledge of the basics of pruning, and experience will come with time.
Tree pruning is the key to any gardener's success. Fruit trees require constant and careful care. Only in this case will they produce a regular and abundant harvest. Surely many gardeners have encountered the phenomenon that a neighbor in the countryside collects more fruits from one plant than you from the entire plot. This indicates that your neighbor is carrying out proper care behind your trees, which you unfortunately neglect. From this article you will learn why pruning fruit trees is needed and how to do it correctly.Purposes of tree pruning
This procedure is carried out with the aim of extending the life of plants, stimulating their growth and obtaining a large harvest. After all fruit trees on personal plot Planted specifically for the purpose of producing fruit. Besides, Garden pruning helps protect trees from pests and possible diseases.
In general, plants need comprehensive care; pruning alone will not be enough to obtain a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to fertilize, water and spray the garden. And then your fruit trees will be beautiful, healthy and, most importantly, fruitful.
The fact that pruning trees plays a big role in obtaining a harvest does not mean that this activity should be carried out whenever you want. There are certain timing and methods for carrying out this procedure. Failure to follow these rules will have the opposite effect on the trees and you risk instead blooming garden get a bunch of stunted plants.
Types of pruning
By removing excess branches from the crown of a tree, you greatly slow down its growth. Experienced gardeners have long noticed this feature than larger tree, the smaller its fruits. The following types of plant pruning are currently practiced:
Crown forming
This is done to obtain a bountiful harvest by forming the correct crown of the fruit tree. Typically, such pruning is carried out in the period from 2 to 4 years of life of the seedling on your site.
The branches are pruned in such a way that the stronger shoots form a reliable frame that protects the weaker and thinner branches. This must be done in such a way that the branches inside the frame receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. It has been noticed that trees with properly treated crowns begin to bear fruit earlier and produce more yield..
Regulating fruiting
The regularity of the resulting harvest depends on this procedure. The essence of this pruning is as follows: depending on the variety of seedling, the shoots are shortened by a certain number of buds. This number can vary from 3 to 12.
Restorative
It involves removing old, broken or diseased branches.
Rejuvenating
This type of pruning is only relevant for mature trees. Old branches are removed or shortened, leaving only young shoots. It is recommended to carry out this procedure approximately every four years.
Trimming methods
Novice amateur gardeners are concerned with the question of how to properly prune trees? We have already told you about the types of this procedure. Now it’s worth talking about the methods. Currently, two such methods are known. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.
Shortening
The idea is to prune young shoots. This is done to prevent the growth of shoots outside the crown..
This is done like this: choose a shoot that grows outward and has more than one bud. For example, if there are three buds on a shoot, it is recommended to cut off one. Next year, the pruned branch should produce three young shoots. One of them will definitely grow in the direction the gardener needs, that is, not outward from the crown, but parallel to the ground. This shoot is left, the other two are cut off.
Thinning
This type of pruning of fruit trees is considered the safest for the health of the plant. In this case, the branches are not pruned, but completely removed.
It is necessary to remove the branch at its very base. Usually there is a subtle fold of bark in this place. This fold should remain intact. Then the cut site will quickly be covered with bark, which will significantly reduce the risk of disease.
Selecting Tools
The choice of tools for pruning fruit trees plays a big role. Tools should not only be comfortable, but also well sharpened. This will not only allow you to quickly necessary work, but will also cause less discomfort to the seedling.
Here is a list of tools that should be present in any gardener’s arsenal:
Secateurs
This is probably the most popular and frequently used tool in gardening. When purchasing these garden shears, you need to pay attention to following points: weight, sharpening and operation of the mechanism.
If you purchase a tool that does not fit your hand or is difficult to operate, the work of pruning fruit trees will take a lot of time and effort.
Hacksaw
Not experienced gardeners They often use ordinary carpenter's tools to work in the garden. This is a fundamentally wrong approach. Although a construction saw will provide a faster work process, it will cause irreparable damage to the tree. Therefore, it is best to purchase a special garden hacksaw.
Air pruner
This tool's operating principle is no different from ordinary garden shears. The only difference is the telescopic design of the device. Thanks to it, without using a ladder, you can cut branches located at a decent height from the ground.
Gasoline saw
This tool is used to trim thick branches from old trees.
How to prune correctly to increase tree productivity
Many novice gardeners do not pay due attention to this procedure. Why bother with pruning if the tree already bears fruit beautifully, they say. But high yield It will happen only in the first three years, then it will decline sharply.
The crown plays a major role in the fruitfulness of a tree. It is recommended to trim and shape it from the beginning of planting the seedling in the ground. The crown should not be very thick and high. Otherwise, the abundance of branches will not pass through Sun rays, which will impede the development of fruits. In addition, processing and spraying heavily dense trees is very problematic. Accordingly, the plant will often get sick.
Pruning the garden is also necessary to ensure that the branches grow in the same direction. A chaotic accumulation of branches not only reduces the yield, but also makes harvesting difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to completely remove all shoots that grow strictly upward or downward.
Horizontal branches should not be removed; it is on them that most fruits are formed. IN as a last resort You can trim them slightly so that the branch does not break due to the abundance of fruits.
Do not leave dried, broken or frozen branches. They affect not only the yield, but also the lifespan of your garden.
IN winter time, especially with the onset of severe cold, it is recommended to trim the crown. This will allow the plant to recover faster from frost and, accordingly, produce more harvest.
When to prune
Why you need to prune fruit trees and how to do it correctly, we figured it out. Now we should talk about what time of year is best to do this.
Trimming garden trees takes place at any time of the year. But it is worth considering some factors. For example, the region of the country where your garden is located. Considering the vast expanses of our Motherland, each region has its own climatic conditions.
For example, in the south it is recommended to do this because there are no severe frosts there. IN middle lane In Russia, and in the north of the country, fruit trees should not be pruned. Otherwise, during severe frosts, the tree may get sick and die.
Considering these features, we can conclude that the optimal time for cutting branches is early. Until the buds begin to swell. Therefore, first of all, attention is paid to old trees. Buds form on them much earlier than in young plants.
It also has its own characteristics. In general, experienced gardeners and biologists advise choosing for pruning the period when the garden is resting.
Fruit tree pruning is the most effective way increasing its fruiting. Following the basic rules for pruning apple trees allows you to achieve a harvest even from young tree. By giving an apple tree one shape or another, you can not only get a high yield of apples, but also aesthetic pleasure in the beauty of a healthy tree.
Types of branches and buds
A branch that is a continuation of the trunk is called a leader or central conductor. Branches of the first order grow from the trunk, and branches extending from them are branches of the second order. Growth is branches grown in one season. The side shoot located next to the growth of the leader is called a competitor. Branches that produce a harvest are called overgrowing.
The buds that form future flowers are called floral buds. Growth buds give rise to shoot development.
Flower and growth buds
Tool
For pruning apple trees, you must have pruning shears. In order to trim hard-to-reach and thicker branches, you need to purchase pruners with long handles. When working with pruners, the branch is placed closer to the base of the cutting blades. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a garden knife with a curved blade. Double-edged garden saws produce a smoother cut on one side than the other. Such saws can damage neighboring branches, so working with them requires caution. Saws with a curved blade and teeth on only one side are used in more cramped pruning conditions for small branches.
When cutting, it is important to keep the tool level, otherwise the cut will turn out torn. For convenience, it is necessary to use a tool that matches the thickness of the branches, which is cleaned and lubricated upon completion of work.
Formation of a young seedling
Apple tree shapes
On small garden plots They try to grow apple trees on a medium and low trunk (part of the trunk from the beginning of the growth of skeletal branches to the root collar). In this case, the tree is given various shapes using pruning. The choice of tree crown structure is often determined not only by aesthetics, but also by the opportunity to get a good harvest in a small area.
1. Cordon. This crown shape allows trees to be planted more densely, and also greatly facilitates the work of caring for the apple tree. The branches are most often placed at an angle of 45°.
2. Palmette. This shape makes it possible to place the branches in the same plane. Its skeleton is the central trunk and branches of the first order. The distance between them is 40 cm. To form an apple tree using the palmette method, support is needed. An apple tree formed on a trellis can serve as a natural fence.
3. Bowl. With this method of forming the crown, the tree branches get evenly sunlight. Harvesting with this form is greatly simplified.
The creativity of gardeners knows no bounds, and today you can find more and more new forms of apple tree crowns.
Formation of the “Dwarf Pyramid” apple tree
This type of crown formation is quite widespread in gardening. It allows you to receive easy care big harvest of apples. The tree is formed in relation to the central conductor (approximately 2 m high) and side branches. The crown tapers gradually towards the top of the tree.
Proper pruning branches promotes rapid healing of the cut. Therefore, when cutting branches, you must follow the basic rules:
- The selection of tools is made taking into account the thickness and age of the branch.
- A high-quality garden varnish for a wounded tree is a medicine that will protect against disease infection.
- It is very important to make the correct cut of the branch. The figure shows the main errors in kidney sections.
1 - too long, causes death; 2 - too close, interferes with bud growth; 3 - cut too oblique, causing tissue injury; 4 – correct, promotes healthy growth
- If the entire branch is removed, the cut is made in accordance with the photo below. Cuts 1 and 2 are incorrect, will heal slowly, and the branch may dry out completely.
- If an unnecessary branch is removed with a saw, then to avoid breaking off, a small undercut is first made from below, and then a complete sawing is made from above.
- If after sawing the cut is not smooth, it is cleaned with a knife.
- After finishing the work, the cut must be treated with garden varnish, spreading it in a thin layer. A thick layer can dry out and fall off, exposing the cut.
In order to stimulate the formation of upper branches, the seedling is pruned in the first year. Leave about 50 cm. Cut the branch to the bud in the opposite direction from the graft.
Next spring, the central conductor, as well as the side branches, are shortened to 20 cm from the beginning of the annual growth. The cut is made to the kidney. In summer side shoots that interfere with the main skeleton are shortened to 7-10 cm. Second-order growth is left one leaf long.
The third year repeats the pruning of the previous one. The growth of the central conductor is shortened to 20 cm in length, which significantly stimulates the growth of lateral shoots. The cut is made on the bud in the opposite direction to last year's.
In May, all growth of the central conductor is removed. During the summer, lateral growths that have reached a length of 45-50 cm are made shorter, leaving 3 leaves. Shoots of second-order branches are shortened by one leaf from above.
Strongly growing branches are removed completely. You can maintain the horizontal position of fruiting branches by cutting downward growth. To maintain the shape of the pyramid, the upper branches are also cut off.
Pruning a mature tree retains the same rules. In spring all growth is removed last year central conductor. To prevent thickening, it is necessary to thin out overgrown branches. All vertically growing branches that violate the pyramidal shape are also removed.
Pruning to increase fruiting
Four-year-old apple trees begin to actively bear fruit, so their growth slows down. At this time, the formation of a strong skeleton becomes important. This will give the tree the ability to withstand increasing fruit loads. Only after this can you proceed to detailed pruning of overgrowing branches.
If you cut off one year's growth in the spring, leaving 4 buds, then in the summer shoots (1-2) from the upper buds will appear on the branch. In the spring of the second year, two buds that have not formed growth must be left on this branch. The remaining growth buds degenerate into flower buds and will produce a harvest in the third year. Further, overgrowing branches are formed on this branch. If the overgrown branches thicken in the future, they are thinned out.
Tree pruning for rejuvenation
Over time, the apple tree may stop bearing fruit. One of the reasons for this may be the very dense crown of the tree. Thinning revives fruiting of the apple tree. Remove all crossing, weak, broken branches. Pruning is carried out gradually over several years. Then it will be possible to avoid weakening the tree. Branches not affected by pruning will produce a harvest soon (2-3 years).
Pruning carried out in early spring, significantly accelerates growth, while summer growth slows it down. Therefore, in the summer, unnecessary side branches are pruned.
Fruits most often grow on horizontal branches. To increase fruiting, strong vertical branches are tied into arcs, oriented horizontally. They will begin to bear fruit soon.
If the area around the tree is heavily overgrown with weeds and it does not receive enough nutrition, this can also lead to the cessation of fruiting. In this case, a support is installed, the weeds are removed, and then all growth of one year is shortened. To improve the health of the tree, all ovaries are removed within 2 years.
Seasonal pruning of apple trees
Pruning an apple tree in early spring greatly stimulates the tree's growth. It is carried out before the kidneys begin to develop. Summer pruning, on the contrary, will slow down growth and is suitable for removing unnecessary fast-growing, damaged and dried branches. Autumn pruning is, like summer, sanitary in nature. It is carried out after the leaves fall and before frost appears. In this case, the apple tree has time to heal the wounds and prepare for winter.
Caring for the tree and timely, simple care work will certainly reward the gardener with a healthy and abundant harvest of these amazingly healthy and tasty fruits.
It's autumn outside. It's time to take care of orchard. The article will discuss such an important matter as pruning trees: when should it be done and how to prune a tree correctly.
All fruit trees and shrubs need pruning. This is done so that the trees grow and bear fruit more actively, so that the crown is less massive, and to reduce the number of harmful microorganisms that “love fruit trees.”
One-year-olds have already been shown pruning to form a crown. A ten-year-old tree needs rejuvenating pruning. It is necessary to cut the crown of the tree to the seven-year level. All trees need pruning.
In the spring, when the temperature remains stable at zero, you need to start pruning apple and pear trees. And when the leaves bloom on the trees, they prune with stone fruit.
It is recommended to use either new or sharpened tools in the work so that the cutting diameter is smaller. To avoid injury and further death of the tree, it is not recommended to trim with a rusty tool. Required Tools for tree trimming:
— it’s better to take the simplest pruning shear;
- garden varnish helps rapid healing of wounds;
— glasses are needed to avoid injuries during work;
- gloves will be needed to avoid injuring your hands;
- without a ladder - stepladders cannot cut branches;
Before pruning, it is recommended to make a plan and carefully consider for what purposes and which branches need to be pruned, and this may be; increase productive branches, thin out the crown, remove diseased branches. Types of pruning have their own characteristics.
1. Formative pruning creates a crown while maintaining fruiting. A crown silhouette is formed that is resistant to various types of loads. If pruning is done at the end of winter, the tree's growth will accelerate, and if it is done at the beginning of spring, the tree's growth will slow down.
2. Regulatory pruning regulates the main branches, the fruits grow larger.
3.During restorative pruning, damaged branches are removed.
4. Anti-aging pruning is carried out for old trees. Branches that produce small fruits or with a small number of ovaries are removed.
There are several ways to trim, here are the main ones:
1.Pruning to a bud helps the branch grow in the desired direction. You need to cut the branch in front of the bud at an angle. Where the bud points, the branch will grow there.
2.Pruning into a ring helps remove branches that are in the way of others. At the junction of the branches, pruning occurs along the outer ring.
After trimming, it is imperative to process the cut. This is done using garden varnish or paint on drying oil.
The best time for pruning is considered to be autumn, winter, early spring, when there is no sap flow. In autumn, sanitary pruning is mainly carried out, removing dry, damaged or infected branches. In winter, in relatively warm weather, pruning can be done, so even wounds heal faster.
In spring, pruning must be done before sap flows. In summer, the tops are mostly cut off to form a crown. But infected branches must be immediately pruned at any time of the year and burned.
A novice gardener needs to strictly follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.
