Cutting a window in a wooden house – Making door and window openings in a wooden house. How to make a doorway in a wall from timber

Hello, Semenych. Please tell me how to transfer doorway interior door in wooden house? The wall material is logs. Thank you in advance!

Evgeny, Barnaul.

Hello, Evgeniy from Barnaul!

There is little good in such a transfer, because, firstly, the structural strength of the structure decreases ( interior wall, as a rule, is the same load-bearing structure as the external walls of the log house, since elements often rest on it rafter system or interfloor covering). Secondly, the old doorway needs to be repaired, but during such an operation the place of repair will be visually noticeable, which not all clients like, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to fit the “patch” perfectly. Or do we have to close this whole business with various decorative elements.

Technically, this is done approximately as follows. On both sides of the old doorway, technological racks made of metal assortment or wooden board with a cross section of at least 10*5 centimeters. For greater strength, such racks can be located in pairs, opposite each other on both sides of the wall. The height of the racks is no less than the height of the door, preferably 15-20 centimeters more in order to capture the first solid log above the door opening. Through the holes in the racks they are secured to the walls. The goal is to prevent the logs from falling out in one direction or another.

After this the old one is dismantled door block along with the door panel. A new doorway is marked. In some cases, depending on individual characteristics buildings, next to the future opening, exactly the same technological racks mentioned above can be installed. This is done if there is a threat of wall collapse. But this is determined by the location; see for yourself how “flimsy” the wall is.

A new doorway is cut out with dimensions completely identical to the old doorway.

The previously removed door block is inserted into the cut, preferably without the door panel, which is installed only after the block frame is aligned strictly in accordance with the vertical level in two planes. This refers to planes “neither to the right nor to the left” and neither to one side of the vertical wall nor to the other.

The cut is made with a chain saw or reciprocating saw, hand hacksaw It’s also possible, but this requires appropriate skill, since the hacksaw blade can move to the right or left. You can also saw with a circular saw, but it’s better on one side, and then finish it with a hacksaw, it’s more convenient.

If you are making a cut with a power tool for the first time, then first cut on one side at a risk, five centimeters deep, no more, along the entire contour of the opening.

Then, on the other side of the wall, you will need a partner who will tell you whether you are moving the bar or saw blade too far away from the mark when making a through cut.

Fastening through vertical and horizontal frame elements. There are usually three fastenings on the vertical ones. Above, below and in the middle. By top crossbar and along the threshold (if any) - from one to two fastenings. It is preferable to use self-tapping screws, so that if further adjustment is necessary, the screws can simply be unscrewed. When fastening with nails, this will not work; there you will “punch” it so hard with a nail puller that there will be dents and sometimes you will have to use it. However, all these are related little things that need not be discussed.

Then, if necessary, fill the gaps between the ends of the wall logs and the block frame with insulation or macroflex foam. If foam is used, then a transverse block is inserted in the middle of the height of the frame, since otherwise the foam can bend the vertical elements to such an extent that the panel will not fit. Frame the opening with platbands.

You close the old opening either using cut logs from the new opening, or with other material (panels, sheets, blockhouse, clapboard, imitation timber, etc.) or other decorative elements to your taste.

Remove all technological supports around the old and new openings.

/In rare cases, they can be left when there are doubts about the strength and stability of the wall after moving the door. With the sealing of these racks with decorative elements, most often in the form of vertical polished boards installed in the form of boxes. But, I repeat, this is decided locally and as needed./

All. Good luck!

Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors, windows:

Doors

Installation of doors in an opening made of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
Installing a metal entrance door in a log house

It is difficult to imagine a house without doors and without windows. Cutting out windows and doorways in a wooden house is a whole art, because even a slight deviation from technology can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, if window and door openings were cut incorrectly, they may simply be squeezed out during the natural shrinkage of the house.

It is necessary to start cutting openings in a wooden house during the shrinkage period, after.

Technology for cutting window and door openings

Openings for windows and doors can be cut in two different ways:

The openings are cut after the house has completely settled. Initially, a solid wooden frame without window or door openings. And only when the house has completed its final shrinkage (usually after 12 months), window and door openings are cut along the intended boundaries. It should be noted that due to the significant amount of waste generated, this method of cutting openings is much more expensive.
Window and door openings are cut directly during the manufacturing process of the log house. At the same time, in the places of the openings it is necessary to make cuts for the joinery and cut vertical grooves at the ends of the walls. Bars are subsequently inserted into these grooves, the task of which is to perform a guiding function during the subsequent shrinkage of the house. The remaining gap in the upper part of the grooves is insulated. Strict adherence to construction technology guarantees smooth, beautiful and compact openings for windows and doors.

Whatever cutting technology you choose, you should mark the locations of windows and doors in advance so that it does not turn out that dowels and dowels are already installed in place of the windows or doors. Installation of dowels and dowels must be done on those walls where it is planned to cut down more than two windows. Otherwise, such a wall may sag under the weight of the roof.

Currently, cutting out window and door openings occurs as follows: they begin cutting down the log house, leaving openings that are somewhat smaller in size than required by the project. Then, in the middle of the opening, one continuous crown is passed through (as when constructing a blank wall). This is done every 3-4 crowns. These logs are cut only after the house has completely settled. It should be noted that window and door openings with this cutting method are usually made several centimeters narrower than necessary, which simplifies the process of final alignment of the openings.

Cutting out the openings is carried out using a chainsaw, while the upper and lower logs are cut only halfway, which simplifies the further implementation of the staking.

Framing is a process of casing openings, which prevents their deformation. Thanks to the socket, the crowns of the timber can move freely during vertical shrinkage, preventing the logs from being squeezed out.

Errors when cutting window and door openings

Among the main mistakes that are often made when cutting out window and door openings are the following:

They begin to cut openings directly during the process of cutting down the house. During the shrinkage process, logs may be squeezed out.
Immediately cut out the openings of the required size. As a result, after final alignment, window and door openings are large sizes than required.
They forget to trim the openings, which leads to their deformation.
Dowels are not installed on walls with two window openings. The weight of the roof may cause the wall to sag.
Use polyurethane foam instead of mineral wool

Dreaming of creating your own cozy corner, you decided to build log house . And so, taking timber as the basis for your future dacha, you unwittingly encountered a problemmaking window and door openings in a wooden house. With your own handsit may seem impossible, but it is not. The main thing is to accurately understand the process and technological features the task assigned to you.

General information on creating an opening.

Under construction.

The opening is made at the stage of construction of the log house

The hardest thing in any business is getting started. Modern methods construction plans provide for marking for future doors and windows at the stage of building construction. That is, the opening is cut out initially, and at the end of construction you have ready-made holes.

How it's done?

It is very simple, having decided on the location and dimensions of the opening, and in the process of assembling the crowns of the building, cut out the required size in the log at intervals of 3-4 crowns. This is done to prevent possible extrusion of the crowns, and after construction is completed, these “crossbars” are cut out.

Tip: make the opening 1/10 of the original size, this will help with further alignment.

This technology is perfect for both simple and rounded logs. Profiled timber makes it even easier to form an opening and does not require a “crossbar”.

After construction.

An opening is cut into the wall of the log house

As an option for making window and door openings in a wooden house, cut an opening in a ready-made wall with your own hands. This is done using a regular bino/electric saw. The first and last logs are cut into ½, which will make the trimming process easier later on. All irregularities are removed using a chisel and plane.

Applicable to all types of logs. If the building is made of laminated veneer lumber, caution is necessary due to possible chipping and peeling of the glued boards.

It is worth remembering that you need to cut the opening in a place where there are no wooden stakes (pins) holding the timber together.

Tip: for marking in case of cutting, you need to use laser level and plumb lines, otherwise the result may be unexpected.

When making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands, first of all you need to frame the opening using one of the types of frames.

Why is this necessary?

A frame or casing is needed to protect door and window openings from natural shrinkage and shrinkage of wooden logs during the operation of the building. It protects the integrity of doors and windows and prevents their deformation. The casing is made in the form of a prefabricated frame consisting of sidewalls, a top and a window sill board (threshold).

The process of making a socket is the same for all types of timber and is divided into the following stages:

Cutting “grooves” or “tenons” in the end of a log.
Manufacturing and fitting of casing parts (technology varies depending on the type of casing).
Sequential collection of all parts of the casing.
Installation of a window or door.

Options for lining window openings:

Monolithic connection

There are mainly three types of pigtails.

Let's look at the easiest one to implement.

Monolithic connection. There are two subspecies.

In the first case, using a chisel or chainsaw (if possible), a cut (“groove”) is made in the end of the beam up to 10–12 cm deep. Next, using the same tools, a corresponding tenon is cut out in the board for casing (usually a board 5 cm thick and 15-20 cm wide is used).

All sides of the casing also have additional grooves at the end. The sidewalls have a T-shaped protrusion measuring 5 cm, and the upper and lower parts have a U-shaped depression. They serve to link the pigtail into a more stable structure.

This method is called T-shaped or otherwise in the deck.

The second option, U-shaped (or in a log), is fundamentally no different and the main difference is that the tenon will be on the log, and the groove is made in the socket board.

The side parts of the frame are installed first, then they are wedged with a window sill board, and the top is installed last, also by spreading the side parts.

The procedure for assembling casing and installation for doorways.

Although the preparation and installation process is similar to the window casing option, there are some differences.

Having chosen the type of monolithic connection (P or T) and cutting the corresponding positions, first of all you install the sidewalls of the casing. Next, with the help of additional grooves, the lower part of the casing is spaced. The last thing to install is the top. It is necessary to make a casing for the casing (you can choose any suitable material). The casing acts as an insulating component and will prevent drafts.

Note: between the top and the beam of the building there should be a space within 1/20 of the height of the window/door opening. This is the so-called clearance for timber settlement. The gap itself is filled with a sealant and hidden under the casing.

Installation of the top

All connections are sealed and fixed with the help of creepy nails (although in doorways, rigid installation of the threshold in clusters is sometimes allowed).

This should under no circumstances be allowed in the process of making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands.

Firstly, you shouldn’t rely on your diamond eye, your trained hand and your dad’s old level. Only precise marking with the help of modern devices will give the desired result!

Secondly, if you forget or don’t consider it necessary (and why am I building a bathhouse, it won’t allow landing) to leave a gap between the top and the log, you risk being left, as they say, “No windows, no doors.”

The third thing to remember is measure twice, cut once. It’s better to try everything on several times than to try to seal the cracks and get rid of the draft later.

Strengthening a structure with liquid nails

Under no circumstances should you set the casing on a “hard” coupling with the beam, even if you just have a bathhouse. After heavy rains and a period of scorching sunshine, the beam can move to the side and the casing simply turns out.

You should not skimp on antiseptics and other woodworking materials; cases of timber rotting in grooves and other contact areas due to moisture penetration are not uncommon.

Do not try to use a metal hammer or sledgehammer when bracing the sides of the frame, the upper and lower boards. This will cause the wood to deform. There are special rubberized or wooden options.

Installation video

What you wanted to do but forgot or some useful tips.

Glued laminated timberIt is worth trimming with more “gentle” devices than a chainsaw, for example, grinder in order to avoid its structural damage.
Before you begin installation pigtails, it is worth carefully checking its connections with other parts again (assemble it several times outside the opening, insert individual parts into the opening and check their adhesion)
Oddly enough, tow is perfectly suited for sealing cracks and is quite elastic at the same time.
One of the options for sealing between the top and the beam can be ordinary glass wool (you should stuff it tightly into the gap and cover it with a platband); it retains heat well and has excellent shock-absorbing abilities.
Try to keep yourself away from large window openings and attics - this greatly affects the stability of the log house.

Lastly.

Thanks to modern construction technologies you can choose any right size windows or doors, and if you made a mistake in the calculations, or something simply went wrong during the installation process, you can always order a door or window of a larger area. And in order not to tempt fate in the future and not try to master making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands, it is better to invite the hands of a professional and a master of his craft.

Construction of an opening in the load-bearing structure brick wall, designing an arch in an apartment is not a very simple process. In this case, the structure of the building is damaged, the consequences of which can be fatal. However modern technologies allow you to significantly minimize the risks of weakening the structure while complying with the required technology.

This article suggests learning how to properly create an opening in a load-bearing wall with your own hands.

Before starting work, it is necessary to legitimize the proposed changes in the supporting structures.

For this:

A plan is drawn up that describes all the redevelopment actions, including the last little details.
The project is submitted to the appropriate organization for review.

Advice: Only if you have permission to construct an opening can you begin to carry out the planned reconstruction of the apartment and coordinate the project for its redevelopment.

It is possible to estimate what the cost of making an opening in a load-bearing wall will be only by deciding on the contractor.

The project and all work can be:

Design and implement it yourself. Responsibility for the strength of the structure will be entirely on the owner of the premises, and the cost determines the type of tools and materials used to strengthen the opening.
Contact a construction company. The cost is quite high, but all responsibility, in this case, for the result of the work will lie with the company that undertook the work.

Before drawing up a project, you need to determine the following information:

Determine what material was used in manufacturing load-bearing wall.
Opening width.
Number of floors of the building.
The thickness of the load-bearing wall and the presence of defects in it.
How the ceilings are located, their appearance and heights from the floor to them.

This data is necessary to calculate the structure and how much reinforcement of the opening will be required for the load-bearing wall.

Advice: With an increase in the number of floors of the building and the width of the opening, the number of defects will increase: cracks, potholes, bends. In this case, the lintel over the opening should be made more reliable. But even in the absence of such flaws, it is necessary to use steel channels, which makes the structure more rigid in combination with the not too high cost of the material.

How to strengthen a lintel over an opening

Before starting the construction of the opening, it is necessary to install a lintel.

A part of the wall will rest on it, which will remain above the future opening, which will remain from:

Floor resting on the wall.
Walls of the upper floor.
Roof structures.

The safety of the wall structure and the entire house depends on the rigidity of the lintel. When developing lintel drawings, it is necessary, in addition to previously obtained information, to take into account several more factors, which should be:

The dimensions of the opening relative to the entire wall area.
The distance between the opening and adjacent walls.
Dimensions from the ceiling to the upper border of the opening.
Type and placement of floor slabs.

Tip: You should not design the jumper yourself. To do this, you need to contact an experienced designer, who will decide whether, when making a lintel, it will be necessary to additionally support the floor slab in order to reduce the load from the wall. This is necessary when making a very large opening. The designer selects the material for making the ceiling over the hole in the wall.

There are several ways to strengthen the lintel.

How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall

It's easier to make a hole in a brick wall.

Wherein:

It is enough to remove one row of brickwork
All remaining rows can be removed without much difficulty.

Reinforced concrete is more difficult to dismantle.

You will need:

Bulgarian.
Hammer.

Advice: Technology for dismantling a certain area in concrete wall depends entirely on its thickness. The best option, which should be used to cut an opening - cutting concrete into cubes.

Instructions for cutting the opening:

The grinder disk is immersed into the wall to its full depth.
Vertical slits are made in increments of approximately 60 centimeters.
Horizontal lines are then cut with the same step.
The resulting cubes are knocked out with a puncher.
The following layers are removed in the same way.
If the thickness of the load-bearing wall is standard, such notches are made on both sides. In this case, the internal residue is removed in one cut.

This method is used for internal load-bearing walls located in panel houses. In external load-bearing walls, cutting will need to be done several times on each side.

Final design of the opening

The final completion of the reinforcement of the metal structure is as follows:

They are connected by welding with transverse channel plates on both sides of the wall. Plates are used with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and a width of more than 5 centimeters, which depends on the instructions in the developed project and technical specifications.
The elements are distributed in increments of 30-40 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the completed opening.
At the same time, the channel is welded in previously inaccessible places until the opening has been cut.
Plastered inner part opening with the installation of a reinforcing metal mesh, which will be welded onto the channel.

Advice: All holes and potholes obtained after working with a hammer drill should be filled with solution to the maximum. Special attention you need to pay attention to the butt seams between the channels and the wall.

How to make an opening in a wooden load-bearing wall

To make an opening in a wooden house made of timber you will need:

Plumb.
A ruler or even strip one meter long.
Marker.
Pencil.
Locksmith's hammer.
Carnations.
Gasoline or electric saw.
Bars 100x100 millimeters, length equal to the height of the room.

If, when sawing through an opening, the wall of a house made of timber begins to bend to the side, then in order to prevent such problems it is necessary:

Drill through holes for the bolts in these beams and the wall of the house, one step apart.
The prepared bars are placed on both sides of the wall of the house.
In places of deflection they are tightened with bolts.

Sawing of the opening can be resumed.
After installing the frame, the bars are removed, such an element itself strengthens the opening.

Tip: Before you start sawing the opening, you should make sure that there are solid logs above the opening; they will distribute the future load on the walls evenly on different sides of the opening.

When making any changes to the layout of the apartment, it should be carefully studied routing. The construction of a load-bearing wall in the ground is described in detail in this document, which has been approved by government authorities. The structure of external non-load-bearing walls, which can also be supplemented with an opening, but with a lighter structure, is also described here in detail.

The video in this article will show you how to properly complete any opening with all the details. If you change the structure of a house without authorization, you can get irreversible consequences, the lives of many people depend on the correct performance of all work.

A frame or casing - what is it, why is it made, what types of connections are used, how to design a window and doorway in a log wall? These questions often arise for many owners. land plots who decided to build a bathhouse or other wooden building with your own hands.

Pit or casing(casing), which is the same thing, is a prefabricated wooden frame inserted into the opening wooden wall for its rigid fastening, and subsequent installation of doors or windows in the reinforced opening.

Of course, this is a simplified interpretation of the properties of the pigtail. In fact, it carries a number of basic design functions that prevent windows and doors from deforming during operation. These include the following properties:

Creating a strong connection in the opening of the cut crowns of the log house.
Providing a gap between the window (or door) frame and the upper adjacent log, which is necessary to compensate for the settlement of the log house.
Creating a sliding connection between the casing and the ends of the cut logs. This property prevents deformation installed windows and doors during the settlement of the log house, as well as when their overall dimensions change under the influence of atmospheric phenomena, for example, when high humidity- increase, and at elevated temperatures - decrease, and vice versa.
Reliable fastening in the casing of windows and doors.

Options for casing connections in wooden wall openings

Connection "in the deck"

With this type of connection, everything is done in a mirror image - a tenon is processed in the logs, and a groove is processed in the jambs. The assembly of the pigtail is carried out in the same order.

Connection of the “finishing” casing

According to the method of processing the materials, the butt can be of two types: “rough” or “finish”.

The draft version of the casing is used when the walls will be sheathed with decorative building materials(lining, siding, etc.). In this case, all roughly processed logs and the log itself must be covered with finishing materials.

The second option assumes that it will be installed in the opening without further processing and will, in addition to its main function, also perform a decorative one. For example, if the walls of a log house are made of rounded logs or profiled timber and you want the interior of the bathhouse to be as close as possible to its original appearance.

The finishing casing is installed using embedded bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, which are inserted into the corresponding vertical grooves under these bars. The jambs, made in the form of a quarter (the letter “G”), are installed in the opening, secured to the embedded bars and spread out with the lower and upper boards. The quarter is located on the outside of the frame and will serve as a support for window or door frames.

To seal the joints, stitched linen wool is used. All irregularities and damaged areas of the casing are covered with platbands from the outside and inside log house At the top of the casing, a gap of 6-10 cm must be left to the upper crown to compensate for the settlement of the log house, and it is filled with heat-insulating material, for example, basalt wool, jute, moss, etc.

How to frame window and door openings

Openings for doors and windows are cut either after the log house is completely assembled, or during its construction. If the structure is planned to be used after final settlement, then the best option there will be cutting of the opening after all construction work. Otherwise, it is possible to select an opening directly during the construction of wooden walls.

With any method, to prevent logs from being squeezed out above the openings, it is necessary to drive or mark places for dowels (2 pieces per opening). Otherwise, under the weight of the upper part of the frame, deformation of the logs, casing, window and door frames may occur. It is important to provide correct location dowels so that when cutting down the opening they are not removed along with the cuttings of the logs.

To make it easier to navigate, you can mark the dimensions of the openings or, when building walls, make one crown with a hole that follows the width of the opening. If an opening in the wall is made during the construction process, then it dimensions reduced with guaranteed tolerance for subsequent finishing.

One of the options for installing a casing after the construction of a log house may be the technological process presented below:

It is also useful to watch this video, which will complement this article:

So, all the work on decorating the openings in the wall has been completed. Now you can begin installing doors and windows. True, this is usually done after they are erected