How to plant adenium. Propagation by apical cuttings. Originally from the desert

Seed propagation of succulents has its advantages and disadvantages. Having decided to grow adenium from seeds at home, the gardener understands that, first of all, he wins in several ways: he receives a flower with a charming caudex already in the first stages of development, and also protects the new plant from viruses that are not transmitted by seeds.

However, we should not forget that the varietal characteristics of the mother succulent are not preserved with this method of growing adenium; most likely, the flower will repeat the characteristics of distant relatives that served as the initial basis for creating the variety or hybrid. If we compare the time and effort spent on germinating seeds and rooting cuttings, the conclusions are contradictory - for some it is easier to tinker with cuttings, for others it is easier to care for seedlings.

The main thing is obvious - by correctly following all the tips and recommendations on sowing seeds and caring for seedlings, you get a significant number of new, cute, fat ones that literally from the first days of their life charm with their unusual stem and lush crown.

What do adenium seeds look like?

The length of adenium seeds ranges from 8–10 mm to 15–18 mm. Outwardly, they look like light, wrinkled cylinders, almost identical in diameter along the entire length of the seed, but there are also barely noticeable thickenings.

The florist, having received planting material adenium, is puzzled: where is the top and where is the bottom of the seed? Which side should be buried in the ground? The answer is simple - lay it out sideways, this makes it easier for the sprout to germinate and appear above the surface of the soil mixture.

Preparation of planting material

The happy owners of the treasured seeds immediately try to figure out how to properly prepare them for planting. Experienced owners of adeniums disagree - some immerse them in a fungicide solution, others in clean water, others believe that all these additional procedures can be dispensed with; high-quality seeds will sprout very quickly.

If the seeds are correctly collected, prepared for storage and transportation, they have a high germination rate. The under-dried ones rot and become moldy, while the over-dried ones die and do not sprout.

Through trial and error, experienced flower growers came to the conclusion that pre-prepared adenium seeds produce better seedlings, which later develop faster and are resistant to various diseases and adapt more easily when conditions of detention change.

1. Soak for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide, for example, phytosporin, to suppress the possible pathogenic environment on the outer shell of the seeds.
2. Next, immerse the seeds for 2 hours in a solution of a phytohormone or any growth stimulant, for example, epin, zircon or ribava.
3. Seeds that float to the surface of a particular solution are discarded; they are unsuitable for sowing and will not sprout.

Preparation of soil mixture and selection of dishes for sowing

While the seeds are being pre-sowed, it is advisable for the grower to prepare a soil mixture and a suitable container. For group plantings, a shallow plastic container with a transparent lid will do; for single plantings, any plastic or ceramic pot, preferably small in volume. Practice has shown: the larger the pot, the more likely errors with watering are.

Many gardeners have had failures with germinating seeds in various substrates, so they agree that it is best to sow adenium seeds in perlite or in a mixture of leaf soil and sand.

The following mixture options are also possible:

• 1 part leaf humus;
• 2 parts coarse river sand;
• 1 part charcoal in pieces up to 3 mm in length;
• 1 part bark the same size as coal.

Thai flower growers germinate adenium from seeds in a soil mixture of the following composition:

• 2 parts coco peat;
• 3 parts sand;
• 1 part leaf humus;
• 2 parts rice husk.

After pre-sowing treatment, planting material is removed from the solution and allowed to dry for 10–15 minutes.

1. Pour soil mixture or perlite into the prepared container to a level that does not reach the edge of the vessel wall by 10–15 mm.
2. The contents of the container are spilled with warm, settled water, and the excess is drained from the pan.
3. Seeds are laid out horizontally on the surface of the soil mixture.
4. Sprinkle them with a layer of substrate 5–10 mm thick.
5. Spray from a spray bottle.

Caring for crops at home

A mini-greenhouse is built over the crops. In a plastic container, just cover the container with a transparent lid. The pot or small glass is covered on top with a plastic bag or glass jar, a plastic mineral water bottle with the neck cut off will also work.

The container with the crops is placed in a warm place in which the average temperature is constantly maintained at 30 degrees above zero; permissible deviations– 22–35 degrees. Lighting is bright and diffused during the first two weeks after sowing.

If the seeds were pre-soaked before planting, they are not moistened for the first 2 days, then watered until two leaves are formed, without drying the earthen ball between waterings. The mini-greenhouse must be ventilated daily to avoid the appearance of mold on the surface of the soil mixture.

The first shoots appear after 1–8 days, the maximum germination period is 2 weeks. Seeds that do not sprout during this time are considered no longer capable of life.

Basic recommendations for caring for seedlings and grown seedlings
The first shoots look like plump, leafless cylindrical columns sticking out from under the earthen clod. When adenium seedlings develop two leaves, the lighting for them is gradually increased to the level of light required by an adult succulent.

At the same moment of caring for seedlings, the intervals between successive waterings are increased, that is, their frequency is determined based on the slight drying of the earthen clod between waterings.

For seedlings aged 1 to 2 months, foliar feeding can be done with a mineral complex containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal quantities: N: P: K=20:20:20.

Transplantation into separate containers and further care

Plants that have reached 2 months from the date of sowing are transplanted into separate pots, but this can be done later - at 3 or 4 months. The containers are filled halfway with expanded clay, and soil for succulents with the addition of sand is poured on top.

They try to disturb the root system of the seedlings as little as possible, so it is advisable to just carefully roll them over with a lump of earth, without freeing the roots from it. Watering is maintained moderate, with light drying of the top layer of the soil mixture.

A week or two after transplanting the seedlings, the already mentioned mineral fertilizers with the same composition, but the concentration is reduced fourfold compared to that recommended by the manufacturer in the instructions. Further feeding of seedlings is carried out once a week, alternating root with foliar.

From 4 to 6 months, the composition of the mineral complex is changed using the following: N: P: K = 8:15:15. For root feeding, a concentration of ¼ as specified in the instructions is still used, and foliar nutrition is carried out once a week, alternating with root feeding and a mineral complex of the specified composition.

Adeniums grown from seeds bloom in the 2nd–3rd year, but it is not uncommon for 6-month-old seedlings to form buds.

Florist mistakes when germinating adenium seeds

the main problem seed method reproduction of adenium - lack of seedlings. Most flower growers blame low-quality seeds and the manufacturer, who violated the technology for collecting and preparing planting material for storage.

However, the fact that the seeds did not germinate may also be the fault of the grower. Lowering the temperature of the crops by at least a couple of degrees below the thermometer reading of +20 degrees in the room leads to the death of the hatched sprouts.

Violation of the ventilation regime of the mini-greenhouse leads to the formation of mold on the surface of the soil mixture and, as a consequence, to the rotting of fragile sprouts. The situation is similar with the overmoistening of the earthen coma - rotting begins at the base of the stem, and it is impossible to stop the process.

Another common mistake when sowing seeds is not planting them deep enough, which leads to the sprout emerging from the ground along with the shell - the skin, which usually slides off during germination through a centimeter layer of soil mixture. If it does not fall off on its own after 1–2 days, it will have to be removed manually, because otherwise the seedling may die.

To do this, the skin is moistened with water using a brush or spray bottle. After 5 minutes, carefully remove it with tweezers, being careful not to damage or tear off the cotyledon leaves. If it doesn’t work on the first try, moisten it again with water and repeat all the steps again.

Sowing seeds

Growing adenium from seeds is very exciting activity. Still would! Few plants can boast of pot-bellied shoots already on the third (!) day. I can’t even believe that such a fat man “hatches” from a generally small seed. And it doesn’t matter what time of year it is, the main thing is to comply with 2 simple conditions.

1. The optimal germination temperature is 30-35 0 C. The minimum is 28-29 0 C.
2. The planting mixture must be loose, breathable and sterile(!).

That's all. The better these 2 conditions are met, the higher the germination percentage will be. And vice versa, if you neglect them, you may not get shoots at all.

Let's move on to the sowing process itself in 12 steps:

1. Soak the seeds for 2-4 hours in warm water .

Calibri;mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;color:black">The procedure is optional, but basically everything manufacturers they advise you to do it. Most experienced Russian adenium growers Adenium seeds are not soaked, because this can cause them to rot and reduce the percentage of germination. So, in this matter the choice is yours.

Water should be warm throughout the soaking time. If you cannot provide this condition, it is better to refuse the procedure.

You can simply soak it in water, which is ineffective, or you can soak it in solutions of a fungicide (30 minutes) and/or a growth stimulator (remaining time).

Common fungicides: , pink. I do not recommend using Maxim. In general, this is an excellent fungicide, but when tested on adenium seeds, “Maxim” significantly delayed seed germination and reduced the % germination rate.

Common stimulants: , , , , "Ribav", "Energin".

2. Prepare the planting mixture. It, as already mentioned, should be loose and aerated.

To do this, take 50% of purchased peat-based soil (for cacti or universal) or coconut substrate (from). Of the common brands suitable: “Terra vita”, “Garden of Miracles”, “GreenWorld”.
It is not recommended to use peat directly, because it has high acidity, which prevents seed germination.

The remaining 50% is leavening agents. The following are suitable: perlite, vermiculite, fine expanded clay, expanded clay chips, brick chips, foam balls, (river, quartz, but not construction), small pieces of charcoal.
Which baking powder to use depends on what you have. Advice: don’t get too carried away with charcoal and vermiculite, but perlite can be used as the only baking powder at 50%.

Instead of pieces of charcoal as a natural antiseptic, it is recommended to add a small amount (5-10%) to the seeding substrate.

3. Prepare the landing container (action No. 1 in the photo) . Anything that has a flat shape and where there are (or can be made) a lot of drainage holes (most conveniently using a heated nail or awl) is suitable as such. These can be low pots, plastic margarine containers, and cups. If you have a greenhouse for seedlings, use it, or plastic packaging for food products with lid.

The substrate is moistened as needed. Try to keep the seed mixture moist, but not wet (!). If you accidentally watered more than necessary, the greenhouse should be ventilated until the excess moisture evaporates.

12. After the appearance of mass shoots (see photo), we transfer to windy place. Without heating, seeds will not germinate, so heating must be maintained throughout the entire period of seed germination.. You can do a little “excavation” and look at them. If, when pressed lightly, the seed sinks and bends strongly, it means that it will no longer germinate.

Under favorable circumstances, the first shoots mIt will appear on the third day. On average from Adenium obesum seeds germinate in 2 weeks. Sometimes the period increases up to a month This is especially true for arabicums and socotranums. Mini adenims also have a longer period of germination. Errors when sowing.

Very beautiful flower in the form of a bush, belonging to the Kutrov family. This is a plant with a fleshy trunk, thickened at the base. The trunk is covered with numerous short shoots. The homeland of adenium is South-West and East Africa, as well as the territory of the Arabian Peninsula. Growing adenium from seeds is quite difficult, but possible. If you want to have this beautiful flower, use our tips.

A little about adenium

Today there are only five varieties of this exotic flower. at home it became possible only after he was grafted on oleander. This technique stimulated the abundance and brightness of exotic flowering, as well as its resistance to various diseases and pests.

In indoor floriculture, the most popular are: Nerum obese and Adenium. These are small plants that bloom with beautiful flowers.

In the wild, this succulent reaches a height of two meters. The leaves have a wide variety of colors, depending on the variety and type. Most varieties have green, oblong or round leaves with pointed tips. The length of the leaf blade is 5-6 cm. There are also varieties with variegated leaves or hybrids with narrow long leaves.

Flowering of adenium begins in summer and ends in autumn. The flowers are very beautiful, varied in color and shape. Their size varies from three to thirteen centimeters in diameter. Adenium is an unpretentious, low-growing indoor plant, characterized by slow growth and early lush flowering. Therefore, this flower is ideally suited for growing indoors.

Growing adeniums from seeds at home

This process consists of several stages:

1. Before planting, the seeds are soaked in water for three hours, but this procedure is not mandatory. Some gardeners do not recommend doing this, as this can cause rotting of the planting material and a decrease in its germination rate. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide here.
2. Warm water is used to soak the seeds. Thirty minutes before the end of the soaking time, it is advisable to place the seeds in any growth stimulator. To the very effective drugs include Fitosporin, Epin, Zircon and Energin. You can also dip the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Experienced flower growers It is not recommended to use the growth stimulator "Maxim". It delays the process of seed germination and reduces their germination rate.
3. In order for growing adenium from seeds to be successful, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil substrate for planting it. To do this, you need to mix peat soil for cacti or succulents with baking powder in a 1:1 ratio. Perlite, brick chips, coarse sand, vermiculite, crushed expanded clay or small pieces of charcoal can be used as a leavening agent.
4. The most the best option there will be perlite. Instead of peat, you can use coconut substrate.
5. After preparing the soil, you need to select a planting container. Adenium is planted in small pots with drainage holes. This plant can also be planted in any plastic container or low glasses.
6. At the bottom of the planting container we lay a drainage layer of expanded clay, brick chips, pieces of foam plastic or charcoal.
7. Then we fill the pot to the top with a pre-prepared soil substrate, and place adenium seeds on its surface.
8. Sprinkle the seedlings on top with a thin layer of the same soil for planting or simply press them down.
9. After planting, the seeds should be covered with a transparent film or cut plastic bottle. If the seedlings are planted in plastic cups half filled with soil, they can be covered with cling film.
10. Further care for the seeds at home consists of regularly irrigating them with warm water from a spray bottle. If the seedlings are planted in a moisture-intensive substrate, the planting material does not need to be moistened.
11. To avoid confusion, mark varieties immediately after planting.
12. After sowing, the seeds need warmth. Therefore, they can be placed on the dryer in the bathroom or next to the heating device.
13. Do not forget to periodically ventilate the plantings, at least twice a day - morning and evening. When the seeds germinate, after about a month, the shelter can be completely removed.
14. Moistening the soil with seeds is carried out as needed. The soil substrate should be slightly moist, but not wet.
15. In case of accidental overflow, plantings are ventilated until the moisture evaporates.
16. After the seeds germinate, they are placed in a well-lit, warm place to ensure further growth and development of the seedlings.
17. IN optimal conditions seeds can germinate as early as the third day after planting. Germination time seed material adenium can be different, depending on the variety. For example, adenium obesum seeds germinate within two weeks. The first shoots of socotranums or abaricums appear no earlier than a month later.

Seedling care

When the seedlings get stronger and have one pair of leaves, they are planted in separate containers. This procedure will need to be repeated at least three times throughout the year. Adenium grown from seeds will bloom no earlier than two years from the moment of sowing. Basic care for young adeniums at home is the same as for adult specimens.

Adenium is a drought-resistant plant that actively develops in good light. This is perhaps one of the few flowers that are positively affected by direct sunlight. The tropical shrub loves frequent but moderate watering. In the summer heat, the plant needs to be moistened more often, and in winter, watering must be limited, since at this time of year the adenium enters a dormant period. Each moistening of the soil is carried out after the upper clod of earth has dried out. It is very important to avoid overwatering the flower, since this succulent, like many others, is damaged by rot.

Adeniums can be replanted no more than twice a year. Adenium is not picky about air humidity, so it does not need to be sprayed.

During the process of growth and development, this plant needs feeding. Liquid mineral and organic fertilizers are applied once every thirty days during the growing season and at the flowering stage of the succulent. To obtain densely leafy bushes, fertilizing with a high nitrogen content is applied at the beginning of the season. The splendor and duration of flowering can be achieved with the help of preparations containing phosphorus and potassium.

Dangers to adenium

Adenium windowsill garden is very rarely affected by diseases and pests. Only due to improper care on this exotic flower a scale insect may settle in, spider mite or mealybug. For the purpose of prevention and treatment of affected specimens, an insecticidal solution is used.

The greatest danger to adeniums is root rot. To avoid its appearance, the plant is planted in light and breathable soil. IN winter time years when daylight hours are shorter and the room temperature is below twenty degrees, watering is reduced to a minimum.

Growing adenium from seeds at home is not difficult at all. Knowing the agricultural technology of the plant, providing it with proper care and attention, you will certainly succeed.

How and when to sow adenium seeds

When growing adenium from seeds, you can get a plant with a well-developed caudex. Germinating adenium seeds is not difficult. The seeds sprout on the third day and grow very quickly. If certain conditions are met, seeds can be sown at any time of the year.

What conditions are needed to germinate adenium?

To sow seeds, you need sterile and well-drained soil. Can be taken as a basis ready soil for cacti and add leavening agents - vermiculite or perlite. The soil composition should contain disintegrant from 20% to 50%. In this case, the soil will be light but nutritious, so the seedlings will not need feeding at first. Adeniums are heat-loving plants. The seeds will germinate well if a constant temperature of +25 to +35°C is provided. If the temperature regime is not maintained, the seeds may not germinate. The seeds also need to be provided with constant moderate air humidity. To create the desired microclimate, the container with the sown seeds must be covered with a transparent film. The most suitable time for sowing is spring and summer. But if it is possible to provide appropriate temperature and light conditions, then sowing can be done at any time of the year.

Before sowing

To prevent fungal diseases, before sowing, the seeds must be treated for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. To increase germination energy, seeds are soaked for 1.5 hours in warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Epin or Zircon). The water temperature must be at least +35°C. To ensure a constant water temperature, you can place the container with the seeds on a heated towel rail.

Sowing seeds

The container for sowing must have drainage made of expanded clay. Then the container is filled with substrate and watered with warm water. The soil should not be wet. Grooves are made in the substrate and seeds are laid out. Seeds are sown horizontally. The distance between the seeds is 2-3 cm, then you need to sprinkle them with soil 0.5 cm thick. If seeds are sown different varieties, it is better to use a landing cassette. Using such a container will ensure that the varieties are not mixed up. It is important that the cassette has drainage holes. After sowing, the container is covered with a transparent film to create greenhouse conditions. For sowing, you need to organize bottom heating with a constant temperature from +25°C to +35°C. If the temperature is lower, the seeds may rot, if higher, they will not germinate. Light is not needed for seed germination.

Caring for adenium seedlings

There is no need to water the greenhouse for the first 4-5 days. After this period, the substrate must be carefully moistened. The crops are regularly ventilated - 30 minutes 2 times a day. The main part of the seeds germinates in 3-4 days, but this period can reach up to 2 weeks. After emergence of seedlings, the lower heating is removed. The seedlings are placed in a lighted place and ventilated regularly. The film is finally removed 2 weeks after emergence. After the appearance of the third pair of true leaves, the seedlings need to be planted in separate pots. The containers are taken small, corresponding to the root system.

Conditions for growing Adenium from seeds at home: planting, methods of propagation

Temperature and watering

Comfortable for the plant temperature limits and watering:

• Summer: at 23-38 C° (irrigation of foliage on hot days, moderate systematic watering as soon as the soil dries completely after the last moistening; daily moderate watering on days when it is hot and stuffy around the clock).
• Winter: at 13-18 C° (poor watering when a decrease in elasticity is detected in the lower part of the trunk - caudex), at 10-13 C° (watering should be reduced to a minimum, otherwise the root system will rot).

Growing from seeds (seeding rules)

Adenium seeds have a short shelf life - after purchasing planting material, do not delay its germination. The optimal period for planting adenium seeds: from April to the end of August.

The labor costs to grow Adenium by seed propagation are paid off by obtaining specimens with a highly decorative caudex.

For Adenium, growing from seeds at home begins with a pre-prepared container with soil consisting of sand, crushed charcoal granules and verimulite.

The last component can be replaced with fine-grained crushed stone, pre-treated with boiling water or simmered in a hot oven for 20 minutes for disinfection.

Before placing the seeds in the soil, the container with it must be kept for at least 12 hours in a warm place in order to achieve good heating of the soil mixture.
Soaking the seeds for half an hour in a warm, light solution of potassium permanganate with water will reduce the likelihood of developing fungal disease Adenium

Having distributed the seeds over the ground into grooves or separate shallow depressions, the Adenium crop is lightly sprayed and then sprinkled with soil. But no thicker than 3-4 mm. The manger is covered plastic film to create greenhouse conditions.

The container with seeds should be kept warm around the clock.

It is highly desirable that the temperature around and inside the flowerpot should not be below 32 °C.

Lower values ​​(lower permissible limit 22 °C) will increase the risk of rot developing inside the seeds and their subsequent death, and will delay the pecking process of the survivors.

Under favorable conditions, sprouts will appear in 3-7 days. However, some seeds can take up to three times longer to germinate.

Young sprouts are sprayed with warm water as the soil around them dries, and ventilated twice a day.

Landing

At the end of two months from the date of seed germination, the young adenium is ready for transplantation. If there is enough space in the container, and the seedlings are green, “cheerful”, actively growing in height and gaining volume in the “waist”, then they can be kept in the nursery longer.

Transplanting seedlings

You can plant grown seedlings in a separate container with the same soil as in a greenhouse. Changing the soil to ready-made store-bought soil for cacti is also not harmful to the plant.

Having transferred the Adenium seedling along with a lump of earth to a slightly moistened new place, the first meager watering is carried out no earlier than a week later.

Even transshipment replanting is stressful for the plant. Therefore, you need to take care of maintaining the optimal temperature around the pet around the clock in order to eliminate additional unfavorable stress on it.

How Adenium seeds germinate

The pipping of healthy seeds can begin on the third day from the moment of sowing. First, an arc of a “hook” appears from the ground. The straightened sprout resembles the shape of a dense light green carrot with a pair of tiny leaves on the top

The color of the flowers may differ from that characteristic of the buds of the parent adenium, since hereditary characteristics are not always transmitted to the seeds. The first buds appear on a two- to four-year-old plant if it is provided with proper care.

Cuttings

An established cutting can delight you with flowering in the coming year.
The plant will become a clone of the parent and retain the color and shape of the flowers.
Flaws:

• Cuttings do not always take root.
• In specimens grown from cuttings, it is sometimes difficult to form a voluminous caudex with increased decorativeness.

The material for cutting adenium with cuttings is obtained after pruning the parent bush. It is more rational to take material from the plant at the beginning of summer, after stable warm weather has established - sufficient lighting and warm atmosphere increase the percentage of established plants.

Adenium cuttings can be of any length, but the easiest to take root are 12-15 cm “sticks” with several leaves.

Not all solutions for speedy root formation can be used for adeniums. Therefore, it is better to let the cutting air dry for about 30 minutes, and then carefully stick it into the soil 5 centimeters deep, and then cover the container with a transparent polyethylene cover, a plastic half-liter glass, or a glass jar.

Important conditions for caring for rooted cuttings:

• The soil (2 parts perlite with 1 part vermiculite or 2 parts clean sand, 2 parts sphagnum, 1 part perlite) should be consistently slightly moist, but not wet;
• The plant must be provided with heat (25-35 °C) and light;
• When watering, you cannot use any solutions with stimulants.

Propagation by cuttings in water

Growing the root system of adenium cuttings - clean water lottery.

With a probability of 50-70%, a cut branch may begin to rot.

But for some gardeners, cuttings still produce roots using this method of germination.

Rooting

How to root Adenium? For rooting, cuttings need from half a month to three. Branches that are separated from the bush and planted in the ground in warm weather acquire a root system faster.

If the procedure is carried out in early spring or late autumn, outside a special greenhouse, then you need to spread a mat with a heating function under the flowerpot with cuttings. Or place the container directly on the line heating system near the window.

Graft

The florist has two grafting methods at his disposal:

Flat.

It is possible that the first grafting option is more rational and less traumatic for the plant.

Because the:

There is no need to split the rootstock site on the parent bush;
the grafted cutting itself has not two, but one cut (flat);
the cut of the cutting fits tightly to the rootstock.

In addition, the place of flat grafting looks more aesthetic; with its help, cuttings from different bushes can be grafted onto one “stump”.

For the classic V-shaped grafting, the apical part is removed from the rootstock branch. The remaining stump is split, and a previously prepared cutting is inserted into the resulting gap, the lower edge of which is symmetrically cut off on both sides.
The grafting site is strengthened with adhesive tape, cloth, or plastic tape. The auxiliary material is removed after successful fusion of the graft material.

Prerequisites for successful vaccination by any method:

The rootstock and scion must be healthy;
there must be at least one living bud on the scion;
the grafted bush and the plant that gave the cutting must be in the growth stage;
trimming the edges must be done with a disinfected tool;
The grafted plant must be kept in comfortable conditions;
the connection point must remain stationary.

For a flat scion:

• The rootstock branch must be larger diameter than the scion (or the same).
• The ends of the plant to be joined must have an even cut.
• After joining, the formed branch is carefully wrapped in polyethylene, and then the graft is securely secured using an adhesive plaster or electrical tape.

When do they start to bloom after grafting?

Flowering of varietal adeniums and grafts occurs after a few months.

Adenium is a very “grateful” plant. For simple care and warmth, both spiritual and very real, he will definitely thank you with lush flowering. And it will allow experienced experimental flower growers to get buds of different colors on one branched bush.

A seedling grown from seeds does not always retain its maternal characteristics. Often, instead of the expected double varietal flower, 2-3 years after planting the seeds, the seedling blooms with a simple pink flower, characteristic of a “savage”.

There are also pleasant surprises when adenium rewards the owner with lush terry bright flowers with two or three rows of petals.

Flowering conditions

Depending on the type of adenium, a young plant grown from seeds blooms with proper care at the age of 2-4 years. Necessary conditions for flowering of seedlings grown from seeds:

Winter peace;
trunk trimming.

Lighting

Adenium needs sufficient lighting and spacious contents. In nature, this plant receives a sufficient amount of sunlight, so when kept at home, all species are placed on southern and south-eastern windows, shading only young seedlings, diseased or transplanted plants.

Winter peace

The plant reacts to the reduction in daylight hours in November-December by freezing all life processes and entering a state of winter dormancy.

In nature, at this time the plant experiences a lack of moisture, so at home it also needs to create conditions for winter dormancy. This necessary condition adenium blooms in spring. The duration of the dormant period depends on the species and the thermal conditions in the apartment.

• The temperature of the adenium content is +12…+15 oC - watered approximately once a month. Species such as Arabicum shed their leaves at this time, however, and they also require watering about once a month.
• The temperature on the windowsill is above +15 oC - the number of waterings is increased, but the dormant period is significantly reduced.

Trimming

Pruning is carried out to stimulate the formation of buds, flowering and the growth of young shoots in the spring, before the growth of adenium begins. Pruning rejuvenates elongated mature plant, use it to form the crown and stems.

The plant responds well to deep pruning, new shoots form buds and bloom in the fall.

Why doesn't adenium bloom?

• When applied generously organic fertilizers the plant “fattens”, grows well, produces a lot of shoots and leaves, but does not bloom.
• Lack of lighting.
• Watering in cold weather causes root rot.
• Failure to comply with the rest period.

Procedure for growing adenium from seeds at home, transplanting seedlings. There should be sufficient drainage at the bottom of the container.

Seedling care

Caring for seedlings involves maintaining the temperature at least twenty-five degrees. Good lighting should be maintained twelve hours a day. Ventilation of the room should be carried out for one hour daily. Watering should be done as needed. The roots of seedlings are very sensitive to moisture, so overwatering or drying out of the soil should not be allowed.

Transplanting seedlings

If the seedlings were in a common container after picking, then after four leaves appear, they can be transplanted into individual small pots. In the first year of growth, up to three transplants are possible, depending on the growth rate of the plants.

Adenium transplant

How to transplant? Adenium is usually transplanted in the spring. Young plants are replanted every year. For mature plants, one transplant every two to three years is sufficient. Pots for adenium should be wide and low. It is advisable to select ceramic containers in light colors. Since the plant loves the sun very much, they will not get very hot.

When to vaccinate

Grafting makes it possible to place several adeniums of different varieties using one trunk. During flowering, such plants are especially unusual and spectacular. For the rootstock, you can use both grown seedlings and already mature individuals. For the scion, take healthy branches of plants with beautiful flowering.

Adenium should be grafted in the spring or early summer, when the sap is in active motion. You can do this in the following ways:

• The rootstock and scion are cut at an angle and aligned. Then they are firmly fixed, for example with a vaccination spray.
• The rootstock is trimmed (no higher than ten centimeters) and a cut is made in the middle. The scion is cut wedge-shaped, placed in the cut of the rootstock and tightly secured with electrical tape.

The room in which the grafted plants are placed should be very warm (thirty-five degrees). You also need to maintain high humidity and good lighting, but do not allow direct contact with adeniums sun rays. All new shoots that appear on the rootstock must be removed. The sap of the plant is poisonous, so precautions must be taken when carrying out this work.

Formation of caudex and roots

How to form the adenium caudex? The caudex is formed with the help of adenium roots, which gradually thicken and begin to push the plant out of the soil. For getting decorative form The formation of the caudex must begin at the earliest stages of adenium growth, starting from about three months.

This can be done in various ways:

• During transplantation, part of the lateral roots is cut off right at the trunk, the adenium seedling itself rises slightly above the ground so that the roots are a little exposed.
• When replanting adenium, the longest root (taproot) is cut off and the top of the plant is pinched. The cut areas are treated with crushed coal, paraffin or hydrogen peroxide. In this case, the root system grows quickly.
• To make the plant more decorative, you can give the caudex the shape of an octopus. To do this, during replanting, you need to trim the tap root and install the adenium on a flat stone located on the soil in the center of the pot. All lateral roots are evenly distributed in the shape of a fan and sink into the ground. They need to be sprinkled with soil on top. With each subsequent transplant, the size of the stones increases. This must be done until the roots reach the desired size and firmly secure the fan (octopus) shape.

Adenium should be raised above the soil by a few centimeters each time it is replanted. There is no need to raise it too high at once, this will greatly slow down its growth and delay the flowering period.

For the formation of caudex, the watering regime is of great importance. If you want to achieve good growth in a short time, then the plant must be in moist soil for a very short time. Therefore, to obtain a large and beautiful caudex, the soil is dried for a long time.

Crown formation

Pruning and pinching is of great importance for the decorative appearance of adenium. Most seedlings produce strong branches after six months of growth. Therefore in spring period It is imperative to cut off all unnecessary branches, which will slow down the growth of the plant and give the opportunity to form new growth points, which form a month and a half after pruning or pinching.

Trimming and pinching help good growth new leaves, and also bring the flowering time closer.

Since adenium is completely easy to grow and care for, it has small sizes, grows slowly, blooms profusely and brightly, it can be called one of the ideal potted plants. With proper maintenance, it takes root very well on the windowsills of city apartments.

To grow adenium from seeds at home, you need to know the characteristics and “habits” of this exotic plant. Some consider this task difficult, practically impossible, but not everything is so bad, it’s enough just to take into account that this plant from the genus of succulents requires some knowledge in its cultivation.

Adenium, a plant with beautiful flowers and an unusual thick stem, has attracted the attention of flower growers for a long time; entire communities of lovers of these extraordinary indoor plants have even been created.

The unpretentious nature of adeniums also plays a big plus to their exotic appearance. Coming from the tropics and subtropics (the homeland of adeniums is Africa), they have learned to survive drought and sudden temperature changes; they do not mind the bright rays of the sun; on the contrary, they feel better in bright light.

Growing adeniums from seeds at home

Absolutely amazing and exciting process growing indoor plants with your own hands, and growing such robust, fat-bellied plants is doubly interesting. Just before you start, you should study the entire technology, well, so that you get the result the first time and not say later that it is impossible to grow adeniums from seeds.

Preparing containers

An important stage, however, like all the others. Bowls or cups, in general, any containers should not be high and there must be holes at the bottom to drain excess water. This is very important for succulents, because excess moisture will instantly cause rotting of the root system.

Soil preparation

The most suitable soil To germinate adenium seeds, it must meet three requirements:

1. Loose
2. Sterile
3. Breathable

For cooking correct soil It is best to use baking powder and soil mixed in equal quantities from a store for succulents; it is also suitable for cacti. For baking powder, you can take finely crushed charcoal, perlite or vermiculite will do. You can crush and add brick crumbs and coarse river sand to the soil. Crushed expanded clay works well.

Preparing seeds for cultivation

For many years, there has been debate among adenium lovers whether it is necessary to soak the seeds when planting or not. The thing is that sometimes due to this soaking procedure, germination is lost, and the seeds begin to rot in the soil. But most likely this is due to improperly prepared soil and non-compliance with the temperature regime, which we will discuss below.

Adenium seeds need to be soaked for two hours in warm water, but make sure that the water does not cool down during the entire time. You can place them next to the heater.

After this soaking, you need to keep them in the fungicide solution for half an hour. The best will be a weak solution of manganese, phytosporin or Zircon. After all these treatments, the seeds are completely ready for sowing.

Sowing seeds

Our prepared bowls need to be properly filled with soil. First, there must be a drainage layer; for it you can use small pebbles, expanded clay, and small pieces of foam.

We pour the soil for sowing flush with the edges; there is no need to compact the soil, it should remain loose.

We do not bury the seeds in the soil; we place them in pots and sprinkle them with a layer of soil on top or press them in a little.

We don’t water the crops, just moisten them with warm water from a spray bottle. Then we constantly moisturize as needed.

After sowing, we cover all our containers with polyethylene, but cling film is most convenient; it can be used to tightly close the cups, creating a greenhouse effect.

Temperature for growing adenium seeds

This condition is also one of the most important, without which you will not get seedlings. Herself optimal temperature should be from +30 to +35 degrees. You can keep containers with sown seeds near heating devices; in any case, the temperature should not drop below +28 degrees, otherwise the seeds will rot. Even after germination, you need to maintain this temperature for another week or a week and a half.

Adenium shoots

They appear in different ways, depending on the variety, the fat ones, the most common adeniums, sprout faster, maybe in three days or a week, but the Socotrans ones can wait a month.

As soon as the seedlings begin to appear, we move our containers to the very sun, but we do not lower the temperature until all the seeds have sprouted. By the way, they are easy to check, because they are almost on the surface. Rake the soil a little and touch the seed; if it is soft, it has already lost its viability.

Of course, you will need to remove the film so that the sprouts do not rest against it and grow crooked. We continue to moisten the seedlings from the sprayer, but only when the soil is completely dry, so that the seedlings do not begin to deteriorate.

How to care for small adeniums

The principle of caring for small seedlings is the same as for adult plants. The only difference is in the frequency of transplants. The fact is that seedlings cannot be planted in large containers right away. The containers, that is, the pots, need to be gradually increased as the plants grow. In just a year, adeniums need to be replanted three times.

The first picking of seedlings into separate cups occurs when true leaves appear. In order for plants to develop, they are immediately exposed to bright light. There is no need to water them, just spray the soil until lightly moistened. Spraying is carried out only with warm and soft water; you can use spring, rain or snow.

Feeding

Picked plants begin to actively develop and require nutrition to speed dial growth requires nitrogen-containing fertilizers. During the flowering period, adeniums are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

All fertilizers for succulents should not be used according to the instructions, but should be diluted three times stronger with water.

These plants need to be fertilized every two to three weeks. In winter, they are generally removed and restored only at the beginning of spring, when development is underway and the flower wakes up.

Further care for adenium

Mature plants no longer need frequent transplantation, if in the first year you need to replant three times, the next two years twice, and then you can replant after five years, until the roots become crowded or growth stops, but it is better not to let this happen.

The flower is quite drought-resistant; in the wild, sometimes adeniums grow where nothing else grows. So if you sometimes forget to water it, it will survive. It also does not need foliage spraying.

The main thing for him is to maintain the temperature and ensure sunlight, in winter, when it has a dormant period, light is not so needed. At this time, adenium may even shed some of its leaves; this is not dangerous and quite natural.

Diseases and pests

The plant has no obvious pests; its poisonous juice is not to everyone’s taste. Sometimes when improper care, low temperatures and excessive dryness can infest aphids, spider mites or mealybugs. They can be removed by wiping the plant with soapy water.

Sometimes a plant suddenly stops growing, this can happen due to lack of nutrition or a cramped pot. This problem can be easily resolved.

Sometimes you may notice that the leaves have lost color; this may be due to lack of sunlight.

How to grow adenium from seeds video

The adenium flower belongs to the Kutrovaceae family. As indoor plant it began to be used not so long ago, but quickly gained the interest of amateur flower growers. You could even say that growing it at home has become fashionable, and it doesn’t require much attention.

It grows naturally on the Arabian Peninsula and Africa. The natural habitat of this plant is very harsh. These include dry periods, when it sheds its color and leaves, and rare periods of rain, during which adenium blooms. It can grow not only on the ground, but also on rocky slopes.

Looks like a succulent shrub or small tree. In nature it reaches 3.5 m in height.

Thanks to its beauty, the adenium houseplant received other romantic names:

• impala lily;
• fat belly;
• star of Sabinia;
• desert rose.

Adenium grows quite slowly, but even before the flowering period it amazes with its beauty and unusual trunk. Form indoor species resembles a bonsai tree.

What adenium looks like: description of flowers and leaves of a houseplant

Indoor adenium flowers are compact flowering trees. They have an unusual thick trunk that immediately attracts attention. It is this part that gives the flower a unique look that no other indoor plant has.

The adenium leaf is leathery, fleshy, on short thick branches. Its color can be not only green, but also red, yellow, or a rather variegated shade with specks. The shape also varies from narrow, thin to large and wide. Some varieties have a velvety leaf surface.

The flowers range from pink to purple with a light center. Such diversity appeared thanks to the work of breeders who developed quite a lot of varieties. The shape of the flower may vary depending on the type of adenium. They are five-petaled, double (very similar to roses). The edges of the petals can be straight or wavy.

The plant blooms from April to August. If you provide adenium proper care and kept indoors, it can bloom several times per season.

Types and varieties of adenium: photos and descriptions at flowering time

In total, there are no more than 10 species of adenium in the wild. Description general characteristics of this plant the following:

• thick, highly branched, fleshy trunk;
• lanceolate foliage.

Its leaves are oblong, slightly rounded and pointed towards the end. Can be different shades– from green to red. There are hybrids with cream, yellow, and white flowers. Most often they are glossy, but can also be matte.

Thanks to the work of breeders, adenium obese has quite a lot of varieties that differ in the shade of their color - snow-white, burgundy, with blue. Its diameter is no more than 7 cm.

The first color will appear no earlier than after a year and a half of the plant’s life, and it will please the eyes of the owners from 2 months to a year, which in most cases depends on how to care for adenium at home.

You can also grow adeniums of these varieties in the room.

Somali. It is distinguished by narrow leaves, elongated in appearance. The color of this variety is quite small, reminiscent of bells.

According to the type of its trunk, adenium is more elongated. Grows quickly and easily. Gives color regularly.

Arab. Characteristic difference This plant is a stocky trunk, quite thick in volume.

This variety is prone to branching, so it looks more like a bush than a tree. At the same time, Arabic adenium does not require pruning and crown formation - it itself forms enough correct form"ball". It blooms with a small pink hue.

Socotrans. Flower gardens do not really like this variety, as it grows quite slowly and is very picky about care. Practically does not branch, grows with one trunk. Gives a beautiful fine pink color, but this happens quite rarely.

Oleifolium. The variety is rarely found when grown at home. Its appearance resembles the Somali one, but its leaves are more elongated and their shade is olive. The color appears in the form of peach-colored bells.

Swazicum. It grows very slowly, no more than 50 cm in height. Its leaf is omitted and of medium size. Blooms bright pink flowers, the first color does not appear until mid-summer.

This variety of adenium flowers requires special cultivation - it often gets sick and stops growing.

Multiflorum. This is a truly breathtakingly beautiful adenium variety. Its flowering is abundant, the crown is simply strewn with flowers with a beautiful red border.

Look at the adeniums of some varieties - the photo shows that the plants during the flowering period are particularly tender and simply captivating to look at. This is why flower growers love them.

How to properly plant and grow adenium at home

If you know how to properly grow adenium at home and follow simple rules for caring for it, then it will thank you with a beautiful color that will delight the eye for several months.

The plant is photophilous and is not afraid of direct exposure to sunlight. In summer you can keep it in the air (ideal temperature 25-30 ° C), in winter - in a cool room (temperature 10 ° C). These are the most acceptable conditions for adenium.

Planting and caring for the plant begin with the preparation of a substrate from turf soil, humus and sand (4: 2: 1). The reaction must be alkaline. In addition, the soil must not only be nutritious, but also loose, so that moisture and air can penetrate well to the root system.

When preparing the land for adenium, you can add crushed charcoal or its small pieces. In order not to infect the soil with various diseases or pests that may be present in coal, the latter should be sterilized or treated with special fungicides before use.

To create growing conditions for adenium that are close to natural indicators, it is recommended to prepare the following soil mixture:

• most of the coconut fiber;
• 1/3 humus of deciduous trees;
• 1/4 perlite and the same amount of expanded clay;
• charcoal.

Of course, finding such an important component as coconut fiber in a city is not so easy. If this is not possible, then for planting adenium you can also use soil for succulents, which is purchased in specialized flower shops. But here, too, it is necessary to add components for drainage.

Adenium is a plant that loves the sun. The beauty and brightness of flowers depends on this factor. In addition, flower growers note that the darker the leaves of this indoor plant, the more sunlight it needs.

When purchasing adenium, pay attention to the lighting in which the plant was located. If it was kept in insufficient sun, then the transition to light should be gradual. If adenium is immediately exposed to direct rays, the plant may get burned.

Another important factor: during the growth period, the position of the adenium does not change, since those parts of the stem that were in the shade may also get burned when turning the pot.

If the plant’s trunk is less than 8 cm thick, and this is observed in young specimens, then in spring and autumn it should be protected from direct sunlight. For this purpose, the adenium is covered mosquito net or tulle.

How to water adenium correctly and how to feed the flower

In order for the plant to feel as comfortable as possible, you need to know how to water adenium correctly. In summer, watering is plentiful, in winter – moderate.

When irrigating, you should wet the earthen ball well, but avoid stagnation of water. In between, you need to let the substrate dry thoroughly. In summer, dry soil time is reduced to a minimum. If you leave the earthen ball dry for a long time, the plant may stop growing. After all, summer is an active stage for adenium. But in winter, you can leave the soil dry for 1-2 weeks.

Observing such dry periods is very important. If the substrate is constantly moistened, the root system of the flower will simply rot and the plant will disappear. When choosing the frequency of watering for adenium when planting and caring for it at home, you can also focus on the temperature environment. So, when the thermometer is below +20 degrees, soil moisture must be reduced.

It is important for growing to know exactly what to feed adeniums with. This home plant has a very positive attitude towards fertilizers. From March to October, they feed it twice a month with special compounds for cacti.

You can add solutions of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus in equal proportions, as well as substrates of slowly soluble fertilizers. At the beginning of the flowering season, it is permissible to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium solutions. They help the tree grow vegetative mass. In spring or autumn, you can opt for microfertilizers.

Trimming and forming adenium at home

Most adeniums, growing in apartments and houses, practically do not produce lateral branches. This leads to the fact that the tree loses its aesthetic beauty and becomes like one large trunk with leaves and flowers at the top. Trimming adenium at home is the key to its beauty and decorativeness. This must be done during the period after hibernation, when the flower begins to actively grow.

Pruning for branching is done when the main trunk is sufficiently developed. The wider the cut, the greater the likelihood of side branches developing. At the same time, the age of the flower is not particularly important and is not a guideline, since the speed of development depends on many factors, and for some, adenium may be ready for pruning after 2 years of its growth, and for others, after 4.

But what is really worth paying attention to is the height of the trunk above the ground. It is this factor that determines how adenium will look in the future. The approximate cutting height is about 11 cm. If you do it lower, the likelihood of forming weak and thin branches will increase, which in turn can spoil appearance plants in the future.

The first branching of the plant after pruning can be observed after a month and a half.

See how to grow adeniums and how to care for them at home in this video:

The most terrible enemy for this exotic plant– root rot. It can only form with excessive watering of adenium. In addition, the flower can also be favored by pests, which must be combated using generally accepted measures.

Features of care and creation of conditions in winter

It has already been noted that winter time for adenium is a period of rest. Don't be alarmed if the plant loses most of its leaves. This is quite normal, even when grown at home.

In winter, watering is reduced to a minimum and carried out in small portions of water. Temperature should be within 10-14 degrees.

How to propagate adenium at home: growing from seeds

How to propagate adenium at home is a simple question for gardeners, since this can be done by almost any known means. But each of them has its own pros and cons that should be known and taken into account.

Propagating the plant by seeds is quite easy. You can buy adenium seeds at almost any flower shop. When fresh, they give 100% germination. Therefore, we advise you to sow immediately after purchase. If this cannot be done, then store the planting material in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. This will help maintain a high percentage of adenium germination. Growing from seeds at home is best done in the spring. The material must first be treated with fungicides. To speed up the process, it can be soaked overnight in warm water or treated with special preparations to stimulate growth. The soil in which planting is planned should be light and loose. The seeds are laid out horizontally and not deeply buried in the soil. Watering is carried out using a spray bottle. Provide the seedlings with a greenhouse effect by ventilating them from time to time. Germination is observed after 10 days. Picking occurs when full 3 sheets appear, and transplanting to permanent place carried out as they grow.

It should be noted that the first flowers appear no earlier than a year and a half after the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. But in many respects this period depends on the conditions of growth, care, as well as the variety and type of adenium.

Reproduction and rooting of adenium by cuttings and layering

This is one of the most effective ways to propagate a plant. In order for the plant to take root from air layering, you need to know how to properly plant adenium in this way. For this you need to use shoots that have a diameter of 2 cm. Pruning of layering is carried out during the growing season according to this scheme. The shoot is cut off with a sharp knife and a cross section is made at the site where the cutting is cut. The stalk is dried and treated with a means for the development of the root system. The cut area is covered with moss, which is moistened with water and wrapped in cellophane. Humidification is constantly carried out. About 30 days after such manipulations, the adenium cuttings take root, and then they can be planted in the prepared substrate.

Note that air layering can be used for further propagation and when pruning the plant. After all, sometimes it’s such a pity to throw away beautiful adenium shoots. Propagation by cuttings can be carried out both in the presence of foliage on it and in its absence. But the latter option reduces the possibility of roots appearing several times. Therefore, it is better to use layering with foliage.

How to transplant adenium correctly

Transplanting adenium at home is one of the main and key points in caring for this exotic flower.

A young plant is replanted annually, an adult plant once every two to three years.

By replanting we mean a complete change of soil, and the moments that signal the need for it can be the following:

• the pot has become cramped, which is manifested in the protrusion of the root system of the plant above the ground, and sometimes in the rupture of the walls of the container;
• slowing down the growth of adenium;
• significant reduction in flower size, loss of color brightness;
• the soil in the pot was caked;
• damage to the plant's root system.

In order for the tree to take root, not get sick and continue to grow, you need to know how to transplant adenium correctly. Plan this procedure in the spring. You can determine the appropriate period by the appearance of the first buds, which have barely turned green, but have not yet begun to grow. This time is considered the most favorable. Plus, it is then that it is not too hot and not too cold, which will have a beneficial effect on the further development of the tree.

Remove the adenium from the pot and carefully shake off any remaining soil from the root system. If this fails, you can rinse the root under running water. Next, inspect the root system, remove everything unnecessary and damaged. Shape the trunk into the desired shape. Treat the cut areas. To do this, dry them and dip them in fungicide. Plant the prepared plant in a pot with new soil. Moisten the soil, and then take care of the adenium and provide it with the conditions described above.

Replanting is not just a change of old soil, but also an active stimulation of the tree to become more active growth. If it is done correctly, you will notice rapid development and abundant flowering adenium in the near future.

When carrying out work, remember that the plant is a poisonous crop, so all manipulations with it must be carried out with gloves, preventing the juice from getting on the mucous membranes.

Adenium is actively used by designers in the design of houses, apartments, and offices. During the flowering period, it is truly an unusually beautiful flower, from which it is impossible to take your eyes off. If you decide to grow adenium at home, then follow the basic rules of caring for the plant, and very soon it will thank you with delicate flowering.