Haworthia navicularis. Which pot to choose. Rooting a stem cutting

Haworthia is an ornamental plant belonging to the genus of miniature and dwarf succulents herbaceous plants subfamily Asphodelaceae. This plant is originally from South Africa, from rocky and desert areas. Haworthia began to be considered a separate species at the beginning of the 19th century; before that, the plants were described as aloe. Then it was named in honor of Adrian Haworth, who lived at the turn of the 18th-19th centuries. He made great contributions to the development of botany.

Briefly about the plant

Plants belong to the same species, but can be very different in appearance. After all, among them there are more than 150 varieties. Every year, breeders develop new ones.

Mostly, Haworthias have a short stem or no stem at all. The leaves are collected in a large rosette measuring from 3 to 30 cm. These succulents do not grow tall, no more than 10-12 cm. But they grow well over the surface of the soil: they develop side shoots, the daughter sockets are separated.

The leaves can be very different: hard and leathery, with a concave inside elongated, and thinner, and triangular, of varying degrees of elongation, and similar to chopped off, with transparent ends.

The number of leaves can vary over a very wide range: from a few pieces to hundreds. The color ranges from pale, almost white, to dark green mixed with brown, red or blue. The leaves are covered with tubercles, which are sometimes invisible, sometimes large in size. white.

Root system

To understand the features of caring for haworthias, it is worth knowing (and this will help you avoid many mistakes) that the root system can be of 3 types:

1. Plants belonging to the retusa group have thick roots. When moistened, they increase, raising the rosette above the ground surface. When the roots dry out, they pull the leaves underground, protecting them from drying out and from herbivores;
2. in the marginata group of plants, the fleshy roots form a branched network and occupy the entire space of the pot. These Haworthias usually pose no problems in caring for them;
3. succulents of the third group may have roots on the above-ground part of the trunk. When the lower leaves die, the “upper” roots pull the plant into the ground up to the living leaves.

Bloom

The flowers are small, pale in color and have no decorative value. They have 6 petals and appear on a long peduncle. It is recommended to cut them so as not to deplete the plant.

Secrets of caring for Haworthia

In general, this plant is unpretentious, well suited for inexperienced people, but you need to know certain subtleties of care: the plant’s requirements for the soil and environment, conditions for watering, replanting, and propagation. Knowing and taking into account such nuances will not allow you to be disappointed in these indoor flowers.

Substrate

In nature, haworthias grow near rocks, in crevices filled with organic matter.

Attention

They do not tolerate acidic soil at all; neutral or slightly alkaline soil is well suited for them.

In nature, haworthias sometimes take root on clean limestone.

For home grown the substrate should not contain more than 50% organic matter, otherwise the soil will acidify very quickly. The filler used in Europe is ideal: for the most part it consists of particles of lava and pumice, and there is very little nutritious soil in it. In Japan and the USA, many collectors plant Haworthias in treated sand or granulated clay. Of course, such soils are not always at hand, but their properties help to avoid the main problem during maintenance: overflow.

You can prepare a suitable substrate yourself from what you have on hand.

The main thing is that it dries quickly (completely within 7-10 days) and contains little organic matter. You can use peat, coconut fiber, sand, clay, expanded clay and other ingredients. For example, this recipe is in proportions 3:3:3:1:2. This includes ready soil for ordinary plants, fine gravel, coarse sand, clay, lime or broken shell rock.

Which pot to choose

Often in large collections, haworthias grow in square plastic pots (this is more convenient and cheaper), and exhibition specimens live in round ceramic ones.

According to the famous Australian collector Rudolf Schultz, who dedicated a book to Haworthias, rough round pots are best suited for these plants.

He explains this by saying that smooth surface the roots cannot catch on when drying: they shrink and may crack. And this creates a great danger for rotting of the root system. Drainage holes in the bottom also help roots become established. As for the square shape of the pot, possible bends of the root system at right angles create the possibility of cracks.

For the amateur the best option There will be a choice of a round ceramic pot. When choosing, you need to take into account that only the roots should fit in the container. You should not take a pot “for growth”. A larger amount of soil takes longer to dry out, and overflow is possible.

Planting and replanting

Before planting, damaged roots must be removed; if traces of mealybugs are visible, then the plant needs additional treatment. Sprinkle the root system with sulfur or crushed coal and leave to dry for about a day.

note

When placing the plant in a pot, there is no need to compact the soil around the roots. This way, the planted haworthia may get injured (and after watering, the roots will begin to rot). Just shake the pot slightly. Immediately you need to water a little.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring or early summer once every 2-3 years, if the substrate is selected correctly. If the organic content is higher, then replanting is carried out annually. The plant is removed, the soil is shaken off, and the root system is examined. Haworthia is planted in a clean pot (the same or slightly larger). If the root system has lost volume, then a smaller container is needed.

Haworthia transplantation is necessary when it sheds its roots. This is easy to notice by the leaves: they lose their elasticity and become reddish in color. Sometimes the plant immediately begins to grow new roots. The causes of root rejection include fungal infections and watering errors.

• Dead and rotten areas should be removed, and healthy and cleaned areas should be treated with a fungicide.
• Next, the plant needs rest to form callus within 1-2 weeks.
• Plant in slightly moist soil mixture.
• Very scanty watering is carried out no earlier than every other week.

Full watering begins only after the plant has restored its appearance. This happens when the root system is restored.

Lighting

Young plants should be protected from any direct sunlight, then they will develop a healthy root system and grow better.

Haworthias need indirect, soft sunlight, but direct midday rays should be avoided. The hot sun can cause burns. A window seat on the east side is ideal.

Additional lighting is needed in apartment conditions during the rest period, when it is not possible to create the required temperature regime(5-10C). For this, it is better to use special lamps for plants. Usually in winter the temperature in the apartment on the windowsill is only slightly below room temperature. Without additional lighting, the sockets will stretch and lose their shape. At low temperatures no backlight is required.

Air temperature and watering

These characteristics are closely related.

In winter, some varieties can withstand -7C; this is only possible if healthy plants are kept dry. During the dormant period, when all vegetative functions of Haworthias stop, temperatures below +5C are not recommended. In the range from +5 to +10C, the plant needs rare, meager watering (once every 1.5 months). To do this, bring the plant into a warm place and leave it for a couple of days after watering. This is done so that the root system does not atrophy. If you continue watering as usual, the root system will rot.

When in winter time Haworthia remains in a warm room and with lighting, then the usual abundant watering, after 7-10 days, with the obligatory drying of the soil.

Haworthia grows actively at +15-25C. In summer, the room must be ventilated; regular spraying is also good. The plant can withstand +50C: if the heat persists for a long time, then watering is done infrequently (once every 1.5 months). Otherwise, the root system may be damaged by rot.

Watering “as in natural habitats.”

Usually there is a drought for 1.5 months, which is replaced by 1-2 days of rain. You can water abundantly from the shower every 6 weeks in spring and autumn, and make it very abundant in the summer.

It is better to use soft water for watering: the deposition of salts on the leaves spoils their appearance. Be sure to drain the water from the pan. In winter, water very sparingly.

Fertilizers

Fertilizers are suitable for succulents, but diluted 2 times stronger than indicated on the package. Fertilizers are applied once a month at any time of the year, except for the dormant period.

Long lasting granular fertilizers are suitable. They reach the roots only when the soil is moist. The mixture in pots with Haworthias is often dry, so there will be no overdose.

Reproduction of Haworthia

Haworthia is propagated by side shoots, seeds, stem cuttings or leaves.

• The side shoots are carefully separated and, after drying, planted in the prepared soil; if the daughter rosettes already have roots, they can be immediately placed in the soil.
• Propagation by seeds is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, although seeds can now be purchased freely. This way you can grow a plant of a rare variety. The seeds have low germination.
• When propagating by stem cuttings, cut off the upper part of the plant above the lower row of leaves. Wound surfaces are treated with a fungicide.
• The separated sheet is left to dry a little. Then it is planted in moist soil. There it is not watered for about a month until rooting.

Disease and pest control

Haworthia is resistant to diseases and pests that can be dangerous to other succulents. Fungid infections only threaten with improper watering.

The main danger lies in the following pests:

1. scale insect appears quite rarely, but it is difficult to cure the plant. It is difficult to remove the insect mechanically due to the fact that the haworthia leaves at the base are closely pressed against each other. It seems impossible to climb between them using any object. The plant needs to be treated twice with strong systemic insecticides at intervals of a couple of weeks. The scale insect is well protected from contact insecticides;
2. white mealybug in a few months it can destroy the entire root system. The plant is removed from the pot. Its roots are placed in a systemic insecticide solution for several minutes. After 2 weeks, water the plant also with the drug. Sometimes it is proposed to fight radically: completely remove the root system and place the plant in fresh soil.

Species diversity of Haworthia

As mentioned above, there are a great many varieties. Moreover, according to different classifications, their number varies greatly. In general, three groups are distinguished among Haworthia (again, this is one of many classification options).

Stiffleaf

Hard-leaved plants have elongated or triangular dark green leaves that are dense and leathery. They contain growths that are often bright and noticeable in a different color.

• Striped Haworthia (Haworthia fasciata): the trunk is absent, dense basal rosettes are formed from thick lanceolate leaves up to 5 cm long and about 1 cm wide, convex, with white tubercles on the lower surface that merge into white transverse stripes. The upper surface of the leaves is green, without marks, smooth.

  The flowers are inconspicuous, small, whitish, collected in a sparse panicle.

• Haworthia pearl or pearly (Haworthia margaritifera): There is practically no stem, the leaves are oval, about 7-8 cm long and 2.5 cm wide, sessile, hard, pointed, convex on the lower side, slightly concave in the upper part, with the apex elongated into a non-spiny point, covered on both sides large round pearly white dots. The inflorescences are racemose, emerge from the axils of the upper leaves, the peduncle is long (up to 60 cm), the flowers are greenish. It is considered a highly decorative species.

Herbaceous

• Among herbaceous plants, first of all we should name Haworthia herbacea: no stem, a rosette of small triangular leaves with cilia (a typical feature for herbaceous plants) along the edges. The color ranges from light green to almost black depending on watering and lighting. The diameter of the socket is no more than 5 cm.
• "Window" haworthias often resemble lithops - living stones. The leaves are thick, they have translucent areas - “windows”, usually protruding from the ground. This semi-immersion helps reduce the evaporating surface area and reduce exposure to sunlight.
• Haworthia symbiformis: the leaves are collected in a basal rosette, they are fleshy, soft, pale or bright green, shiny, boat-shaped, with “windows” on the surface. A single rosette can reach a diameter of 10 cm, a rosette with side shoots can reach 15–20 cm.

  The pedicels are long, the flowers are small, whitish.

Total
By following simple rules of care: timely watering, temperature and light conditions, correct composition soil mixtures - you can grow a whole collection of unpretentious haworthias on your windowsill. The variety of varieties will allow you to choose your favorite plants that will please the eye.

Incredible beautiful plant is the haworthia flower. So interesting name The plant was named after the explorer of African nature, Adrian Haworth. Many flower growers would be happy to decorate their collections with this beautiful flower, but to grow a healthy plant that will please the eye, you need to know how to care for it. This is exactly what we will talk about in our article.

Characteristics of Haworthia

Almost all species of this plant do not have a stem, the only exception is Haworthia Reinwardt. The flower has fleshy triangular-shaped leaves, widened at the bottom and tapering towards the tip. Depending on the type, the leaf surface can be smooth or rough, and the plant is also distinguished by a variety of patterns and colors.

Succulents branch well, have side shoots and daughter rosettes. As soon as a peduncle appears, which can reach 40-90 cm, it is necessary to remove it, since it has no particular value, but the plant can weaken greatly, or even die after flowering.

Haworthia plant appearance very similar to aloe, but still has certain differences and is more compact in size.

What microclimate is suitable for the plant?

The home microclimate is very comfortable for a succulent, whereas in nature this flower grows in very unfavorable conditions. Its usual growing environment is sandy and rocky soil under the scorching rays of the sun. The flower stores its moisture in the fleshy leaves, using it very sparingly.

The Haworthia plant tolerates care at home, even by non-professionals, very well. This flower is unpretentious and perfectly adapted to the apartment microclimate.

Haworthia flowers are white and inconspicuous in appearance. At home, the plant practically does not bloom, but you should not be upset about this, since the flowers have no decorative value.

Plant varieties

Currently, about 150 different types are known different types Haworthia, but only a few of them are used for home cultivation. The most common are:

1. Haworthia fasciata (striped haworthia) - perennial. Pointed, slightly curved leaves are dark green with white convex stripes. The diameter of the plant is no more than 15 cm. The length of the leaf is approximately 10 cm.
2. Haworthia attenuate is a deep green plant with greenish or white dots on its leaves. This flower is not as expressive as, for example, striped haworthia, since it does not have bright white protuberances on the shoots.
3. Haworthia reinwardtii (Reinwardt's Haworthia). The plant reaches a height of approximately 15-20 cm. Perhaps the only species that has a stem, albeit a short one. The leaves have a pointed triangular shape, the tips are curved inward. The leaf is smooth on top, but rows of white dots appear on the surface below. With a lack of sunlight, the leaves take on a darker shade.
4. Haworthia limifolia (limofolia haworthia) is a miniature flower no more than 10 cm in height. Dense, hard leaves in the form of wide triangles. Small white warts cover the leaf, forming transverse stripes. The color of the plant is dark green.

If you want to grow such a flower at home, you obviously can’t go wrong, because it will bring a little African exoticism into your life, since South Africa is the birthplace of the haworthia plant. The species of this flower are numerous and varied. But only a few of them are adapted for growing at home.

What care does Haworthia need?

Caring for this plant at home is quite simple. The flower takes root well when transplanted and grows quickly. Since in nature it grows in rather extreme conditions, it feels quite comfortable in an apartment and does not require special care. The plant is very attractive in appearance, as it has an interesting shape, and the leaf structure is very similar to aloe. Regardless of what type of haworthia, home care will be identical for everyone.

1. Lighting is one of the most important factors. sunlight It is extremely necessary for the flower, however, it must be placed in the shade periodically. In winter, the plant is placed in the brightest possible place.
2. Temperature regime. In summer, the temperature should be moderate; it is best to place it in the garden. In winter, 10-12 degrees is enough for the plant.
3. Watering. There is no need to water the plant abundantly in the summer; 2 times a week is enough. In spring and autumn, watering is done once every 7 days, but in winter, watering once every 5-6 weeks is enough for the flower. Please ensure that the soil dries out well between waterings. You need to water very carefully, as it is undesirable for water to get into the middle of the outlet. This can cause the flower to rot. If the lower leaves die, it means that the watering was not organized correctly, and in such a case the plant may die.
4. Fertilizers. Potassium is very useful for the plant, so to fertilize the flower, use preparations containing it. high content. Feeding is carried out monthly from May to July.
5. Humidity. Haworthia tolerates a lack of moisture well and is tolerant of dry climates.

What you need to know about plant transplantation

As a rule, succulents are transplanted in the spring. This procedure should be carried out if the plant is too crowded in the pot. It is worth noting that it is in cramped conditions that the plant grows and develops better, so you should not rush too much with replanting.

The best container for planting will be a shallow, wide pot that contains drainage system. Pay special attention to drainage, as stagnation of water can cause the death of the flower.

Soil preparation

Haworthia (photo of which is presented below) loves non-acidic soils, where the pH is 7-7.5 and organic compounds do not exceed 50%. With a high organic content and high acidity, the soil is unsuitable for growing this

When choosing soil, keep in mind that it should consist of three components (sand, clay turf and leaf soil) in equal quantities. Some professional gardeners advise adding brick chips to the soil, which is responsible for regulating humidity. The baby absorbs everything excess moisture, and the earth becomes porous. After a year, it is better to renew the soil, since the brick chips are crushed and lose their characteristics and properties, and poor soil is harmful to the health of the flower.

How exactly does Haworthia reproduce?

Care at home, as we found out, is quite simple, so it’s not even too experienced florist will cope with the task with ease.

To acquire new flowers, you can use several propagation methods:

1. Daughter sprouts. In the spring, when the plant is transplanted, the children, which have already formed their own root system, are separated. Young shoots are planted in small pots. It is not necessary to wait for the roots to ripen; you can carefully cut off a daughter rosette without roots from the mother flower and plant it in sufficiently moist soil where the young haworthia will take root.
2. Propagation by seeds. A rather painstaking and time-consuming way to grow haworthia. It is extremely rarely used by flower growers, since more than one week will pass from planting to the first shoots. You can buy seeds in specialized flower shops.
3. Leaf. A good way to propagate a succulent is to cut or carefully break off a leaf from the mother rosette. The cut leaf does not need to be planted immediately after being separated from the main bush; it will dry out for 2-3 days, and only after that it is planted in specially prepared moist soil. The plant should be watered no earlier than after 3-4 weeks, by which time the plant will have strengthened and roots will appear.

Which pot to choose for a flower

When choosing a pot Special attention It is worth paying attention not to the materials from which it is made, but to its size. Haworthia prefers to grow in tighter spaces, so a low but wide pot is exactly what you need.

Note the roughness inner surface pot, such conditions allow the root system of the plant to better strengthen its walls.

It is necessary to choose a round pot, because in a square container the roots of the plant bend at right angles and are more likely to rot.

This type of plant is perfect for novice gardeners who do not have sufficient experience and knowledge in growing flowers. Some connoisseurs of succulents collect small collections of different types of haworthia. Such a meeting exotic beauties looks impressive.

For a beautiful haworthia to grow, care for it at home with love, and it will delight you with its beauty for many years.

Plants that have decorative look leaves, along with beautifully flowering domestic varieties, also do not lose popularity among gardeners. In addition, as a rule, such window sill inhabitants do not require careful care, but at the same time they are pleasing to the eye. all year round. One of the plants of this type is African haworthia.

Description of the plant, its origin

Haworthia is a small plant native to Africa. There are about 150 species and are classified as succulents.

Succulents are representatives of the plant world that have the ability to accumulate water reserves (for example, cacti, aloe).

In the wild, Haworthia grows on dry sandy or rocky slopes, preferring the shade of other, taller plants. The fleshy leaves form a rosette. Height is about 12 cm in an adult.

The leaves are dense, fleshy, hard, rough, with growths; their appearance and surface depend on the variety (some have pronounced tubercles, others have almost inconspicuous tubercles). Some species have leaves with transparent zones through which light penetrates. Coloring ranges from dark to light green. The stem is absent or very short. Peduncle - up to 90 cm in length, flowers are small, not attracting attention, pinkish-white or greenish.

This is interesting! Haworthia received its name thanks to the scientist Adrian Haworth.

Some types of haworthia are similar to. However, haworthia produces many children, but aloe does not. You can distinguish it in the following way: on the underside of the leaf, haworthia has a clearly palpable edge, on the top - roughness, while aloe has smooth and even leaves.

At home, haworthia reproduces quickly and is unpretentious in care, but rarely blooms.

Popular species for home breeding - table

Striped, pearl, Big Band and other types of Haworthia - photo gallery

Pearl - small tubercles, similar to pearls, determined the name of the species Limofolia leaves have frequent transverse ribs The leaves of the elongated pointed Haworthia have transparent areas The pattern of the chess Haworthia resembles a chess board The Big Band species has elongated leaves Haworthia Rainward has a relatively long stem Striped Haworthia is one of the most popular types

Optimal conditions for haworthia - table

Planting and transplanting

How to replant

1. A plastic container, wide and shallow, will do. In a pot that is too large, the plant will develop the root system to the detriment of the ground part, and in a very cramped “house” the haworthia leaves are crushed.
2. The soil should be slightly alkaline or neutral; acidic soil is contraindicated. Composition: sand, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions.
3. Haworthia does not tolerate stagnant water, so soil drainage is necessary. To do this, you need to make holes in the bottom of the pot; for example, pieces of pumice and shell rock, as well as brick chips, can regulate the amount of moisture in the ground. In the latter case, however, the flower will have to be replanted every year.
4. Carefully remove the plant from the pot and inspect it. Dried or damaged roots can be trimmed by treating the cut with charcoal.
5. Transplant the haworthia into a new container and water it moderately. During the first 2-3 weeks after transplanting, water very sparingly.

How to Create a Succulent Mix

Haworthia looks great in the company of other succulents. For the base unusual garden A wide glass container will do. It needs to be disinfected and the bottom filled with a layer of drainage. Priming:

• garden and leaf soil;
• sand;
• activated carbon (protects against mold).

You can add stones for decoration, artificial elements etc. Carefully plant succulents in a pre-thought-out composition. Water lightly, then moisten the soil about once a month.

Care

Watering

Haworthia needs moderate watering once a week in the summer season, once every 2-3 weeks in the winter. Signal for next humidification - upper layer the soil has dried out. Water should not get inside the outlet.

Haworthia reacts to excess moisture by withering leaves; excess water can even lead to the death of the flower.

The succulent is absolutely indifferent to air humidity. Haworthia should not be sprayed, but you can occasionally wipe the dust on the leaves with a damp cloth.

Top dressing

Haworthia is fertilized only in spring and summer. Once a month is enough. Excess nutrients can change the color of the leaves. A weak solution of fertilizer is suitable for cacti and succulents or for ornamental plants.

Bloom

Haworthia is bred primarily for its unusual leaves, but its flowers have almost no decorative value - they are small, dull and inconspicuous. In addition, haworthia rarely blooms at home. If a peduncle does appear - as a rule, this happens in late spring - early summer, it is recommended to cut it off, since flowering greatly weakens the plant.

Rest period

In autumn and winter the plant is in a dormant period. He needs to ensure the air temperature is approximately 10–12 o C, stop feeding, water 2 times a month or even less often. The place should also be illuminated and protected from direct sunlight.

If the temperature for Haworthia is uncomfortable, the plant itself will tell the owner about it - the leaves begin to darken and rot.

Errors in care and ways to solve them - table

Diseases and pests of Haworthia

Haworthia is practically not susceptible to disease, but pests can cause damage to it.

Pest control measures - table

Haworthia is a member of the subfamily Asphodelaceae, which in turn is part of the Xanthorrheaceae family. It grows in steppes and desert areas in the south and southwest of the African continent; in natural conditions there are more than 70 species.

These succulent plants easily tolerate hot climatic conditions in their homeland, grow even on the poorest and driest soil, constantly accumulating large amounts of moisture and nutrients in their fleshy foliage. IN temperate zone Haworthia is grown only as a houseplant.

Haworthia types photos and names

- the most popular “home” type. It has narrow, fleshy foliage (similar to aloe) 5-10 cm long; the bottom of the leaf is dotted with a large number of light inclusions forming transverse stripes. The diameter of the leaf rosette does not exceed 15 cm.

Other types of haworthia grown at home can be so different from the striped one that at first glance you won’t even believe that they belong to the same genus. The most popular of them:

- miniature (only 2.5 cm long), with light green ciliated rosette foliage.

- reaches 8 cm in length, the foliage on both sides is covered with white, pearly, chaotically located warts.

Haworthia navicularis species - named for the outlines of almost smooth foliage of bluish-green color, with a rosette diameter of 8-10 cm, has a variegated (variegated) form, which is highly valued in plant growing.

- a very decorative appearance, resembling a symmetrical star, with wide base leaf and a narrow tip, each leaf is dark green, and its entire length is filled with golden stripes.

(dull ) - with hard, 3-sided leaves, bent at the top, either pure green, or with a reddish, or brownish tint, up to 5 cm long, covered with transparent windows and light strokes.

Haworthia pearliferous species - its green foliage is covered with randomly arranged white growths.

- low (2 cm in height, 10 in width), easily recognizable by its rectangular foliage with a cross section, while the ends of the sheets seem to be cut off (truncated).

Haworthia Reinwardt species - on the contrary, a rather tall species - up to 20 cm long, with characteristic difference from all the others, manifested in the fact that triangular, slightly concave foliage with pointed ends and white growths grows from the shoot.

Highly decorative, long narrow linear-pointed dark green leaves up to 5-10 cm long on the underside have bright white inclusions that form stripes.

- endowed with very hard glossy foliage, as if cast from plastic.

Haworthia retentata species - resembles a striped one, but its white convex stripes of foliage are replaced by white and green convex dots.

- similar to pearly, but its foliage is narrower, elongated, long pointed, and the growths are smaller and denser, especially on the lower side.

- has 2.5-centimeter leaves, convex at the bottom, obliquely keeled, dark green in color, speckled with small growths.

Haworthia mosaic species (chess ) - with short pointed, thick, bent outward leaves with light transverse stripes, dappled with a dark brown-green hue in the sun.

(pygmy ) - very interesting thick foliage on the upper surface is rough, which gives it a similarity to a cat's tongue.

- as if not the most unusual of all haworthias, with a rosette formed by cylindrical sheets, at the ends of which there are transparent (and sometimes with a pattern) windows.

Haworthia care at home

Caring for a haworthia at home will not be particularly difficult, since it, like all succulents, is characterized by unpretentiousness. In nature, it prefers to grow in places sheltered from direct sunlight, which means that in an apartment it is necessary to provide some shade for it - a shelf in the middle of a room with windows facing south is quite suitable.

If there is a complete absence of shadow in the room, it is better to shade the windows; at the same time, conditions of insufficient lighting should not be created, as this will affect the decorativeness of the foliage.

Echeveria is a succulent plant that can be easily grown when cared for at home. The plant belongs to the Crassulaceae family and has a huge number of varieties and species. Recommendations for growing and care can be found in this article.

Watering Haworthia

Watering the plant should be moderate. Do not allow soil moisture to stagnate - after the soil has completely dried, water it once every 5-10 days. After watering, you need to drain the water from the pan.

This procedure requires settled water, since the salts that are part of the tap water can destroy the root system. A necessary condition Each watering is to avoid water getting on the foliage and in the central part of the outlet.

Soil for Haworthia

The following components are used in equal proportions for the soil mixture for haworthia: clay-turf, leaf soil and sand. You can also buy ready-made substrate for succulents in the store.

The pot must have drainage. By adding, in addition to drainage, brick crushed to crumbs, you can almost forget about moisture for the winter rest period - 2 waterings are enough for the plant for 30 days.

Haworthia transplant

Since the roots are mostly on the surface, it is advisable to choose a low, wide pot. It should be noted that it will be easier for the plant to develop if its root system is somewhat constrained, so a pot a couple of sizes larger is inappropriate here. When planting, you don’t need to deepen the roots too much!

Fertilizer for Haworthia

Fertilizers for Haworthia are applied monthly in the spring and summer. To do this, use a special solution for cacti or decorative foliage plants.

When the soil is overfilled with mineral compounds, the foliage may change color.

Pruning Haworthia

Haworthia rarely blooms indoors. At the end of spring, adult specimens produce oblong peduncles that are not particularly decorative, although, for example, the flowering of Haworthia navicularis is quite beautiful. However, experts advise cutting off flower stalks as soon as they appear so as not to waste the plant’s reserves of energy.

Moreover, some species die immediately after flowering. I wonder what better care for haworthia, the less often it blooms, and if such a period has come, you need to wait until it ends and carefully separate the peduncle from the plant.

You can also pollinate a flower to produce seeds that will be useful for planting in the future, but the ripening of the seeds will take so much effort that it may result in the death of the plant.

Haworthia in winter

The optimal temperature is 15-20℃ in summer and 10-12℃ in winter. Lower temperatures will cause the plant to die. For the winter, it should be moved to a cool place (where there are no heating elements), but at the same time, ensure the proper level of lighting, otherwise during the dormant period the foliage will fade and lose its decorative qualities. It is not worth feeding during dormancy.

Under improper wintering conditions, the root system may rot, then the plant should be removed from the pot, the rotting parts of the roots should be removed and replanted in new soil.

With the arrival of spring, the pot should be moved to a warm place, and in the summer it should be placed on the balcony, but not in direct sunlight. In autumn, as soon as the temperature drops to 12-15℃ at night, you should bring it back to a warm room.

Reproduction of Haworthia by children

Haworthia is propagated in 3 ways. The first is for children. The children that have taken root are separated during transplantation and planted in a separate container with a moist substrate.

You can also plant a daughter rosette without a root system - rooting will occur in the substrate.

Haworthia leaf propagation

The second way is using leaves. They are cut off or carefully broken off, then given a couple of days to dry. Planting is done in a slightly moistened substrate.

It will take about a month before the leaf takes root, and during this period it should not be watered.

Haworthia propagation by seeds

The third method - seed - is very difficult to implement, therefore it is of interest only to breeders. It is better to carry out the propagation procedure in the spring, combining it with transplantation.

You should not create a greenhouse for a plant, because if you cover it, it will most likely rot!

Diseases and pests

Haworthia rarely gets sick, but pests such as root worms and aphids occasionally cause noticeable damage to it. The appearance of root worms is characterized by redness or yellowing of leaves , and changing their shape .

Further spread of the pest is reflected by white flakes on the ground, at the edges of the pot and a wax-like coating.

The fight against it consists of several steps:

1. The container with the plant must be tightly wrapped plastic film for a few days;
2. Once every 14 days, the foliage should be treated with ethyl alcohol or calendula tincture;
3. Additional treatment - using Fitoverm, Actara, Fosalon, Intavir and the like - is performed 3-4 times, alternating drugs, at intervals of 14-21 days.

In case of aphid infestation the leaves gradually dry out and curl . This pest can only be controlled by using chemicals, such as actellik and the already mentioned actara and intavir.

Treatment involves 3-4 treatments with an interval of 10-12 days, also with alternating insecticides. To prevent aphid attacks, the plant can be sprayed with onion infusion or tobacco ash once every 7 days.

If Haworthia suddenly stopped growing , it means the room temperature is too low. It is worth noting that for the dormant period this is a completely normal phenomenon, but if we are talking about the growing season, the temperature in the room must be increased.

Ornamental haworthia is a compact perennial plant native to South Africa. The succulent prefers moist, shady places. The name Haworthia is given in honor of the scientist Adrian Haworth, a researcher of the African plant. The hard, fleshy or narrow elongated leaves of the plant of various colors are collected in a basal rosette. The shape of succulent leaves ranges from triangular to scale-like. There are wart-like growths on the surface. The flowers are small, white pink or greenish.

Photos of popular types of indoor plants - Haworthia

There are different types of Haworthia:

• rigid-leaved;
• herbaceous;
• windowed.

With hard leaves

The foliage shape of Haworthia is a cone or triangle, the color of the leaves of the succulent is dark green, there are specks. In Group:

• Haworthia retentata;
• Haworthia striped;
• Haworthia adhesive;
• Haworthia Reinwardt;
• Haworthia pearl.

There are growths on each side of the succulent leaves. The foliage color of Haworthia retina is dark green, the shape is elongated.

The striped variety has warts only on the bottom of the leaf. The upper surface of the plate is smooth. The rough leaves of the sticky haworthia are arranged in three rows. From below there is a scaphoid surface, from above it is depressed.

In total, more than a hundred varieties are known. The most popular types of haworthia: Reinwardt, pearl, striped.

In the photo - striped haworthia

The striped haworthia does not have a trunk. Thick narrow dark green leaves are collected in a dense rosette. White growths form pimples on the lower surface, the upper surface of the leaf is smooth. Small flowers are collected in a panicle. The plant looks like a small aloe.

The succulent grows up to 15 cm. There is no rosette. The pointed leaves are thick, triangular in shape, curved inward. Smooth above, with dotted bright white growths below. The inclusions disappear when there is a lack of light. The flowers are yellow-green, collected in a raceme on a long peduncle.

The oval dense leaves of the succulent are pointed. On both sides there are large pearl specks. There are thorns along the edges of the leaves. Greenish flowers are collected in brushes. Haworthia pearl lives from five to twenty years. The rosette dies after flowering. It is replaced by new subsidiaries.

Herbaceous

In the photo there is a translucent haworthia

Triangular succulent leaves with cilia are collected in a stemless rosette. In Group:

• Haworthia arachnoid;
• Haworthia reticularis.

The rosette of the herbaceous variety is formed by small leaves. The color of the foliage is determined by the degree of illumination and watering. It varies from light green to deep dark, almost black. Socket dimensions – up to 5 cm.

Long cilia on the edges of Haworthia arachnoid leaves entwine the plant. Hence the name.

On the yellowish-green surface of the leaves of the net-shaped succulent, dark veins are formed and form a net-like pattern.

Window

The flowers have translucent “windows” at the ends of the leaves. Succulents are half immersed in the soil, “windows” provide light internal parts plants.

The shape of the leaves is varied, the color is light green or brown. The properties of window haworthias resemble lithops.

The group includes:

• Haworthia navicularis;
• Haworthia dulled;
• Haworthia chopped off.

The leaves of the navicular haworthia are fleshy and bluish-green. There are transparent stripes around the ends.

New sockets form quickly. Flowering - several times a year. The flowers are miniature, whitish.

The curved translucent edges of the foliage of the blunted haworthia are turned back. Single rosettes are fleshy and hard.

Chopped haworthias grow vertically. On the surface are the tips of translucent leaves.

The plant loves light, but this plant does not need to be placed in direct sunlight.

At home, care is the same for all types of haworthia. The indoor plant grows and reproduces well.

Lighting for indoor plants

Place the haworthia in a bright place, out of direct sunlight. Best places for haworthia - western and eastern windows. When placed on the south side, shading is needed, and the lack of light on the north side causes a loss of brightness in the color of the leaves.

Rest period

Winter is a period of rest. The plant is moved to a cool place away from the heating system with sufficient lighting. At uncomfortable temperatures, the leaves darken and rot.

From the balcony or veranda the pot is brought indoors at night from the end of summer. With the beginning of autumn, the plant remains at home permanently.

Watering

Watering is moderate. From spring to autumn - no more than twice a week, in winter:

• at a temperature of 10-12°C once every 30 days;
• at a temperature of 13-15°C once every 21 days;
• at a temperature of 18-20°C once every 14 days.

The surface of the succulent's soil is lightly moistened: the top layer of the haworthia substrate should dry out by a third between waterings. If there is excess moisture, the roots may rot.

Water should not get into the center of the bush so that the root rosette does not rot. In summer, water should not remain in the pan.

Humidity

This plant is not fussy about watering

Humidity does not affect flower growth. No spraying required. In summer, the container with haworthia is taken out to the balcony or garden.

Top dressing

From the beginning of spring to the end of summer, the plant is fed. Use a weak solution of special fertilizers for succulents or ornamental plants once a month. In case of excess useful substances leaves change color.

How to transplant haworthia correctly

Young haworthia plants of any kind are replanted and renewed every two to three years, when the pot is small. Adult specimens - once every two years. If the roots die during the dormant period, they must be replanted immediately.

What kind of pot is needed for the plant?

The container needs to be wide, low, and shallow. In pots that are too large, haworthia grows deeper rather than upward. A pot that is too small is the reason for the shrinkage of young leaves.

At home for caring for Haworthia best pot– plastic round. In square roots, they bend and rot.

The soil

The soil is selected slightly alkaline or neutral

Good soil drainage is required. Earth - equal amounts of clay-turf soil, sand and leaf soil. You can use pieces of lava and pumice, adding a little soil to them.

The succulent grows well in a mixture of clay, sand and broken shell rock. The soil needs to be slightly alkaline or neutral. In acidic soil the plant dies.

Brick chips regulate the humidity in the pot well. But its breakdown into small components worsens the structure of the substrate and harms the flower. It has to be replanted annually.

How to propagate Haworthia

The best time to propagate Haworthia is spring. Reproduction methods:

• kids: during transplantation, the children that have taken root are planted in separate pots. A daughter rosette without roots is planted in a moist substrate until rooting.
• seeds: It is more difficult to propagate Haworthia from seeds. It takes a long time from planting to the appearance of sprouts. This method is suitable for breeders and hobbyists rare species home flower.
• leaves: You can cut or break off a leaf from the mother bush. It is left to dry for two days, planted in loose soil, soil slightly moistened with water, or a sandy substrate. Do not water the plant for a month. During this time, the leaf produces roots. The seedling is not watered for three weeks. During this time, the first roots appear.

Optimal temperature for growing

The optimal temperature for a flower is 15-20 °C in summer. In winter – 10-12°C. At lower temperatures the plant dies.

Haworthia is quite easy to care for, but you need to know a few rules about which read to the right

If haworthia is grown in composition with other plants, it is placed at the base of larger ones.

Elongation of leaves when caring for homemade haworthia, looseness and elongation of the rosette - lack of light. The plant needs to be moved to a western or eastern window.

The leaves are elongated, the edges are bent, the growths become dull - too high temperature in winter. It is necessary to reduce the temperature to 10°C..

During the dormant period, the ends of the leaves dry out and curl at the edges - excess heat and dryness. It is necessary to protect the plant from hot air. Glass or placing the pot in a tray with wet pebbles will help.

The flower changes shape and grows in length - it needs replanting and feeding. Be sure to separate the children. If brown spots appear on the leaves, shade the plant.

An interesting property of Haworthia is that it requires 3-4 hours of light. Accustoming to the sun begins gradually in the spring, in order to avoid burns.

The lower leaves come off easily and are limp – the plant is flooded. It is necessary to stop watering until the plant is completely restored.

The color of the leaves changed to pale, yellow, red - excess fertilizer. You can feed once a month. Feeding with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content is unacceptable.

The foliage turns black and rots - the soil is too wet, the temperature and air are very low. The plant is urgently brought into the house.

Haworthia pests and features of caring for indoor plants during this period

Remember - on outdoors Haworthia can be affected by aphids

The plant is affected by:

• scale insect;
• aphids;
• spider mite;
• mealybugs.

At the first signs of damage, the sore spots of the haworthia are removed with a sharp knife, the cut of the succulent is treated with charcoal or sulfur and dried.

The plant is transplanted into new soil. The old one is thrown away, and the pot is treated with boiling water.

To combat scale insects and mealybug the plant is treated with Aktara, diluted in a proportion of 4 g per 5 liters of water, the ground is spilled with a solution of 1 g of insecticide per 10 liters of water. Treatment – ​​4 times with a 10-day break.

In the open air, Haworthia is affected by aphids. Treatment with Aktara, Iskra-bio and any insecticide according to the instructions. Insects die after a few hours; be sure to treat all plants in the house.

From spider mite“Akarin”, “Agravertin”, “Neoron” will get rid of it. Treatment is 4 times, with a break of 7-10 days. For complete relief it is necessary optimal conditions plant contents.

Irradiation with a UV lamp for two minutes weekly helps.

Alternative to fumigators - essential oils caraway, anise, oregano, wormwood, coriander, eucalyptus. When diluted, they are sprayed on the affected plants. Effectively used for prevention purposes.

The main property of spectacular haworthias is their low susceptibility to diseases and pests. The succulent is unpretentious. At proper care The highly decorative plant retains its beauty and brightness.