Installation of plastic frames. The technology of self-installation of pvc windows. The sequence of installation of plastic windows

Previously, only wooden windows were installed in houses, but nowadays not only wooden windows are produced, but also.

And in the modern world, people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer hold heat so well, freeze through and look, let's say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

Installation plastic windows is not simple, so this work is best left to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to install windows yourself or you have some experience in installing such windows, then you can install windows yourself.

That's just how to properly install a plastic window, we will tell further.

The positive quality of installing plastic windows on your own is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

Installation of plastic windows can be carried out in winter time, but in the event that the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.

window measurement

Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to take measurements window opening and according to the received data, buy a finished window or place an order for the manufacture of a window. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window accordingly.

The window should not fit tightly into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.

clearance requirements

The minimum dimensions of the gaps should be:

Window up to 1m 20 cm indent should be 15 mm;
Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
Window up to 3 m indent is 25mm.

When you replace a window, you need to take into account that the window should only fit into the window opening by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make slopes.

All measurements were taken, all the nuances were taken into account and as a result, the required size was obtained. window profile. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be quite dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.

After you've done everything preparatory work start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.

Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to clean the window opening well from dirt and moisten it a little.

Then you can start preparing the window for installation.

Installing a plastic window

Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the deaf parts of the window. Then it is necessary to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We fasten fasteners for mosquito nets on self-tapping screws.

Profile insulation

If you decide to make anchors as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason, such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can lead, and if it does, the window will be damaged.

But anchoring has and positive traits, such as construction, will be solid. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates the easiest type of fastening of plastic windows. Very often, specialists use both types of mounts.

Usually we start fastening from the corner and at a distance of 120-150 mm we make the first fastener and then with a distance of 700 mm we make the next fastener. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all planes with a level, then with the help of wooden bars it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from below using the materials described above. The next step is to align the profile horizontally. Fixing the profile in the opening on the side and top is made of wooden blades. After you have done alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
If you fix the window profile to the mounting plates, then they are first fixed to one dowel nail. The next step is to check the window profile with a level, and only after that the mounting plate is fixed with a second dowel with a nail.
In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw the anchor in without tightening them.
The anchors are not tightened in order to check the window installation level, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the wooden blades from the sides and top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.

How to install ebbs on plastic windows?

The next step of the work is the installation of the ebb.

We measure it and cut it out with metal scissors right size, then glued at the bottom of the frame special tape, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window.

After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Same layer polyurethane foam applied to the edge of the plate, this is necessary in order to ensure the sealing of the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Then, with mounting foam, we close the seam between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. WITH inside windows, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the double-glazed window.

With the help of the slats, they hold the double-glazed window, drive the slats into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the canopies, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all work, a mosquito net is installed.

How to install a window sill on plastic windows?

After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.

First, we fill the lower mounting seam well with foam, and a tape is glued on top of it.
Then they install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be attached.
Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and it is necessary to solder it from below and, best of all, with mounting foam.

In this article, we talked about how to install a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and be patient!

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, the class is standard. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Window profiles are standard White color, but can also be brown - the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

window structure

To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

Frames. This is the base of the window.
If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.

Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up. cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the it will be easier installation. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, then installation with unpacking is necessary.

Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should stand in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
      - Close the window (handle turned down).
      - Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
      - There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
      - Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
      The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
    2. On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
      - Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
      - The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
      - Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
      - So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
      - With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.
      Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
  1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.
  2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
  3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.
  4. Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a standard window, another anchor is installed: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
  5. Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation required amount once.
  6. Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
  7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
  8. The tide also foams along the lower edge.
  9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
  10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
  11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.
    Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap
  12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
  13. Assemble all parts of the window. Only Finishing work, but they are not a hindrance.
  14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. An uncomplicated process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, House master he will be able to master and carry out on his own. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter - a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, significantly reducing heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. When fastened through, the window will firmly resist numerous impact loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blank double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. Appearance they will not spoil the windows, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For installation anchor plates in concrete or brick opening it is desirable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If the installation of plastic windows with your own hands is done in wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

Equip with plastic windows wooden structure can only be done in a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can insert a window only in wooden box protecting the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

In building codes there are no exact recommendations about the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. The ebbs usually use standard ones attached to the window structure. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended experienced builders those who figure out how to properly insert plastic windows. Wood that is permeable to vapor will help reduce technical qualities mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, window block along the line of its application, it is desirable to equip it with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for the specified element to retain the necessary specifications the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Often recommended winter montage due to the immediate manifestation of all faults. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam adheres strongly to top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

First, release the frame from the sash by pulling out the pin inserted into the top hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

Lean a double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

WITH outer surface frame clear protective film. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small sticks to provide technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

Since the installation pvc windows do-it-yourself can be carried out using different fasteners, on this stage differences appear.
- in the opening wooden house through the holes in the frame, immediately screw in the self-tapping screw. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
- On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
- There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
Fill gaps with foam. Close the foamed seams from the outside and from the inside with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. Plastic variant 2 cm starts under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, windows are not advised to be used so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.

Today, PVC windows have become very common, and with them, the firms that install them have gained wide popularity.

However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing windows

The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:

Dismantling of old windows.
Preparatory measures for the installation of a new window.
Installation of a support profile.
Fastening the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
Fixing PVC.
Filling all seams with mounting foam.
Installation of the window sill and its alignment.
Slope fastening.
Window hardware adjustment.
Drain installation.

I must say that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:

Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
Preparing to install the opening.
Do-it-yourself PVC window preparation.
Direct installation.

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Measurements and calculations

Before buying a product, you should carefully measure its necessary parameters. In this case, one characteristic of the opening must be taken into account:

has a quarter;
does not have a quarter.

A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.

If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm below for the window sill.

I must say that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, and not 1.5 cm.

As for the opening, which has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.

In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit later, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.

There are subtleties when choosing the size of the tide and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows with your own hands allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result.

It is only necessary to say that both ebbs and window sills should have 5 cm more than what turned out as a result of measurements.

As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone in case of an unsuccessful first attempt.

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Making a window opening

So, when all the calculations are over and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.

First you need to start removing the old window. It can be done different ways. If you are dealing with an old wooden window, it's better to do this:

First, remove all glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or carnations holding them.
Then remove any nails or glazing beads that hold the frame itself.
Remove frame.

Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. In the process of dismantling a fixed window, the glasses could simply crack and fall out of their places, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residue.

It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so old layer it is necessary to remove what can be done with a planer, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Of course, this should only be done in niches made of wood.

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New window preparation process

It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work it is best to adhere to the following guidelines.

It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, the pin, which is located in the upper loop, is removed. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver, gently prying and pushing. After removing the pin, the sash is easily removed from the bottom hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. To do this, you can use a knife or spatula. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and is shifted to the side with a smooth movement.

I must say that such procedures must be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.

From the outside of the frame, it is necessary to remove the protective film, so that later there will be no difficulties with this.

Then it is necessary to apply the markup, that is, to designate the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (they will be discussed a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. The minimum distance from the attachment point to the corner should be at least 15 cm.

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PVC window installation methods

It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.

So, the installation of PVC windows can be carried out in one of two ways:

on anchor bolts or dowels;
using special fasteners.

Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of the appropriate sizes are drilled.

Installation with these fasteners is good when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.

As for fastening fittings, it is usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.

The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed in a spacer against the wall. Themselves such plates are attached using conventional screws.

If there is a desire to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help to avoid unnecessary work associated with the subsequent alignment of the slopes.

Very often, builders in the process of installing windows use both methods at once, which is also acceptable.

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Installation technology

Installation of the window begins with the fact that a prepared frame is inserted into the niche or the entire window. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners around the entire perimeter. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.

The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these very corners.

Spacer wedges or corners are best placed under the frame attachment points.

This will give it additional rigidity and thus protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.

Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fasteners used, the installation technology will have its own. And the differences begin precisely with the next step:

If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing in a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only in such a way as to slightly “bait” it.
On concrete or brick walls, marks are made through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled in place of the marks. Then the frame is installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.

After pre-installation you need to check the verticality and horizontality again installed frame. This can be done using a conventional building hydraulic level or a plumb line.

After checking the frame is fully fixed. In this case, the anchors do not tighten much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the anchor head is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.

Then you should attach all dismantled to preparatory stage window details, i.e. glass or sashes. After installation, they should be adjusted.

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. Often there is such a situation that the window is smaller than the opening so much that between them there is a gap larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with mounting foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, fixing it with mounting foam.

When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Suitable and cement mortar.

The ebb is installed on the foam. Additionally attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.

The tide is installed with an inclination from the window.

After the foam has dried, you can begin to install the window sill. It starts up 2 cm under the "clover". I must say that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done in order to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, its installation is also carried out on mounting foam.

After all the installation steps are completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.

PVC windows have long established themselves with better side. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the installation of the window system was carried out. There are only two ways: mounting windows on plates and unpacking method. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the double-glazed window from the frame. The window structure is fastened with anchor plates, which allows you to install the window without any special skills.

Methods for mounting a window structure

Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.

Unpacking or fastening through the frame with self-tapping screws

This fastening method is characterized by the fact that the frame must be completely disassembled before installation: the blind and opening doors are removed, and only then the installation is carried out through the profile with self-tapping screws.

The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large-sized windows.

After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and adjusted again. This option is used for large windows with an area of 4 square meters for reliable fastening of such an overall structure.

Leveling plates are installed between the double-glazed window and the profile

Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed in order to avoid contact between the edge of the double-glazed window and the window profile. Their presence will ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the double-glazed window and ventilation of the rebate space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the double-glazed window.

Mounting with plates

When installing PVC windows on plates, there is no need to remove the double-glazed window

Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these same plates. There are models for general purpose and made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with designs of complex shapes. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they have special "lugs" and can be inserted into existing grooves on the surface of the frame.

Anchor plates with lugs are used with complex window structures

Plates without ears are fastened with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws.. Requirements for bolts: 4.5 * 25 and the presence of a drill for metal.

Installation rules

A standard window requires at least five plates. In the central part of the frame, one plate is fixed, and on both sides - two each: one from above and one from below. At the same time, 20 cm should be retreated from the border of the frame.

5 plates are enough to mount a standard-shaped window

Installing windows without unpacking involves fixing the frame with anchor plates on the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and double-glazed window. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with a preliminary analysis of the window system into its constituent elements: sashes, double-glazed windows.

Fastening with plates is appropriate to use on windows of medium and small size, more often it standard windows residential buildings and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are mounted on anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not withstand it.

Large window systems are installed using anchor dowels

With the help of anchor dowels, they also fix door frames. In professional circles among installers metal-plastic structures This installation method is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:

this type of installation is difficult even for professionals. There is a high risk of damage to the double-glazed window when removed from the frame;
this type of fixation by one person is often not possible;
this is a labor-intensive method that takes considerable time and requires the availability of appropriate skills.

When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of glass damage

If there is a desire to install the window yourself using this method, then you will need to buy dowels 10 * 132 mm. Of the tools, you will need a powerful puncher - this device is professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is not advisable to purchase it for the sake of installing one or two windows. You can look for a company that rents out construction equipment, usually hammer drills are the most popular product.

With the installation of a window on the plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just have to buy the plates themselves.

Bolt Mounting Difficulties

A few more reasons why you should not get involved with bolting during self-installation, but you should prefer plates. In order to fix the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the PVC window frame. As a result, depressurization of the double-glazed unit chamber is possible.

As a result of the fact that when drilling, the reinforcement of the system is possible, problems are observed in the future when the window system freezes through.. As a result, there is excessive moisture formation indoors and the appearance of mold on the surface of the slopes.

When fixing a PVC window on the bolts, depressurization of the double-glazed window may occur

With a lack of experience, not knowing the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may turn out that it will stretch if improperly installed. Fix Geometry window frame will be practically impossible.

There are still positive qualities in attaching plastic windows to anchor bolts:

reliability of fastening of the structure - in order to dismantle it, it will be necessary to perform the reverse order of work that was during installation;
after fixing the window system, there is no need to additional work how it happens with fixing with mounting foam: time for solidification, leveling, cutting, finishing;
the structure can be fully exploited immediately after it is installed;
a similar connection method is reliable and durable, and fastening materials in the form of bolts are commercially available and have an affordable price.

Features of fastening to anchor plates

This method of fastening the window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.

Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only negative is that some fastening-plate elements will remain visible after installation. However, they can also be cleverly disguised, hidden under the slopes when they fine finish.

Inserting a plastic window with plates is easier and safer than bolting

There is one more recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash, which will be used very often, then the window may fail. This fastening is recommended for moderate opening or fixed windows.

An alternative is the combined method of fastening: the upper part of the structure is mounted on plates, and the lower part is fixed with anchor bolts.

Rules for attaching a window to plates

Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. Glue or foam is not suitable. The use of a percussion mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.

To avoid damaging the window frame with a drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by placing a piece of PVC near the hole to be drilled..

Self-tapping screws are used as a fastener

When installing a window in a brick opening with vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock joints. To control the penetration of the self-tapping screw into the body of the frame, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with an appropriate function that limits the torque.

The process of attaching the window to the plates

First of all, anchor plates are fastened in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements must be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm relative to the corners of the frame.

The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm

It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm.. In the case when this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate the fasteners. To do this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.

On the surface of the wall with a pencil or chalk, mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is taken out and a recess is made at the place of the marks with a chisel, into which the plate should enter and fix tightly. This will subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.

At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is leveled using wooden bars prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and their installation takes place only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled by a level.

Vertical alignment is carried out according to the level

When the position of the frame is aligned, you can begin to fix the plates with dowels 6 * 40 with concrete base or self-tapping screws in other cases.

Gaps are filled with foam

To avoid distortion of the frame, the plates are fixed in order. First, fix the lower left corner, then the right, exercising control with a level. The top plates are fixed last. At the final stage, the seams are sealed with mounting foam.