Do-it-yourself brick stove for heating. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying a brick oven. Video: Laying a dry brick oven

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with newer and newer models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses are still honored with an ordinary brick oven - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of furnaces and do-it-yourself brick-type construction technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The body of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick oven has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while in the firebox metal furnace firewood needs to be thrown up every 4-6 hours.
The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic bad smell). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly cause harm to health.

A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ones) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called kiln breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When using any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel furnace has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one tab of fuel increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick oven produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel oven in which the fuel is smoldering, black smoke constantly pours. Metal solid fuel heaters are deprived of this disadvantage. long burning(full-fledged, and not the so-called gas-generating furnaces, only simulating gas generation). But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven warms up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that will heat the air in forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built along with the house. And ideally it should experienced master which is yet to be found.

The use of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

Smoking meat and fish.
Remelting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Firing of ceramic products.
Heating blanks in a blacksmith shop.
Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above scheme in different furnaces may be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking oven.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

Efficiency at the level of 60%;
in the oven, a heat exchanger can be installed on the side for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
a convector with this shape heats the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
near the Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell-type furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (high loads take place in the design). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove bench

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. It does not include a convector.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided for in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

Efficiency reaches 80%;
building has an interesting appearance;
become available for cooking such dishes of our national cuisine, which you can’t cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General arrangement of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a chamber with a door in which the fuel burns - the furnace (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. Under the grates there is another chamber, called an ash pan or blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, outside air enters the furnace and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at rear wall flue gases enter hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

cleaning door (pos. 12): the smoke channel is cleaned through it;
valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, through which, after kindling, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the walls of the chimney are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other items:

1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
5 - the beginning of a special air channel (ventilator), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
10 - furnace vault;
13 - the bend of the air convector, called the overflow or pass;
20 - overlapping of the furnace;
22 - attic floor.

Preparing for construction

Required materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

Construction ceramic brick (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called sub-fire part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
Furnace ceramic brick. It is also red, but compared to the building one it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the oven are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lays out the flame (furnace) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
Chamotte brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay bricks combine high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick in this case can not be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by the color depth, but this method is valid only for those products for which clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a qualitative sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should make a sonorous and clear sound, and when it falls from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds to tapping, and when it falls, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar.
High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if irregular furnace firing is expected. The fact is that a dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be saturated with moisture and become sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique hatching with filling), a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used instead of clay. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: mortars of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in the solution is sought to be minimized.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the mortar is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

trowel;
pick hammer;
cutting for seams;
mortar shovel.

The stove-maker should have a rail-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By setting 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 surface area of the furnace are accepted the following values heat transfer:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of 17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be enough for a house with an area of 80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the furnace is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. How to design and manufacture homemade firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

The firebox in size and location of fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; for permanent use, you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
The depth of the ash shaft (lower constriction of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time, the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one-fifth - if wood fuel or pellets are the main one.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, head height above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to fulfill exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in orders, which will take only about an hour. More modern version- simulate a furnace in one of the computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in this way, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in the intersection area of \u200b\u200bthe attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating plate, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation tapes is 1.2 m.
It is allowed to build a small Russian stove on the basis of wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), based on the ground or rubble masonry of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation, can be rubble. An ordinary oven (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 50 mm.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after upper layer dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work on the floor before future furnace it is necessary to build a fireproof coating, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must be at least 300 mm from the furnace, while its side edges must extend beyond the furnace by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see Fig.).

Adhere to the following rules:

The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the underfire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
Bandaging of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
The laying must be carried out with dressing of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and they are guided in the future.
Doors and shutters are fixed in the masonry by means of a binding wire laid in the seams, or with the help of clamps made of a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and flame dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter only increases outer dimension chimney, the internal section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and properly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are advised to lay out the furnace part of the furnace in the formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
Next, lay out the flame part, for which they use furnace and fireclay bricks.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick must be moistened by lowering it into a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution with their hands, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid correctly, without correcting or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after removing the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
After laying a few more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
Install the furnace door - in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
Spread the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in purely heating furnaces). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
Further, the laying of the furnace is continued according to the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded off.

Having completed the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Vaults are of two types:

flat: arches of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

They begin with the installation of extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size, on the solution.
After the solution dries, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without violations, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular arch should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard sizes of blocks, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should be 2 mm wide, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to uncontrolled air flow through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of heat can fly into the chimney, and if the furnace door is open during fuel combustion, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. raw firewood give less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in them, a large amount of acid condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel bookmark to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is carried out with a torch, paper, etc. It is forbidden to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to cover the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by the yellow color of the fire; if it turned white - the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

Cleaning and repair of the furnace is usually carried out in the summer, but in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and with a large amount of it, the stove will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any damage or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whatever option brick oven whatever you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated home. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

A brick oven is a time-tested way to warm up a room during the cold season and keep it warm. Suitable for home heating permanent residence, and for the dacha, which is visited once or twice a month. The device of the hob and oven allows you to combine the functions of heating and a heat source for cooking in the oven. Although today more and more remote settlements are gasified, the problem of the general availability of blue fuel is still acute. Even in the Moscow region, many garden associations and detached estates and farms are located far from the gas mains.

Folding a brick oven with your own hands means least cost solve the problem of heating in the house in a well-established way. There are also situations when even the presence of gas on the site still does not make a brick stove a useless anachronism. I mean bath. Unlike the Finnish sauna, which can be electric, the Russian bath must be with a stove, and a brick stove is the traditional option, which is only recognized by staunch, consistent adherents of bathing art. Therefore, the construction of a brick oven with your own hands will come in handy on the farm, regardless of the conditions.

Laying the oven is not easy, but feasible

In addition, real stove-makers are becoming less and less over time. To entrust the laying of the furnace to an unverified specialist is to risk not only finances, but also subsequent comfort and even fire safety. Isn't it better to temporarily retrain yourself as a stove-maker in conditions of shortage? At the very least, only you yourself will be to blame for the mistakes you make.

Any brick oven, no matter what configuration it is and what masonry scheme it uses, includes several common structural elements, which will be present in all models.

Foundation

The base of the entire furnace device on which it rests. Depending on the type and size, a brick oven can weigh two to three tons. Such a large load cannot be distributed on the floors. Neither columnar, nor piled, nor strip foundations imply such a load. The only option when you can do without the construction of a special base is. In other cases, the foundation for the furnace must be built separately from the existing one. It is not recommended to tie them together, since the difference in load can further lead to deformation.

The stove will be the heaviest item in the house, so the foundation must match

array

An array is called the "body" of the furnace, which, in turn, is divided into several parts. On top of the foundation, after the waterproofing layer, a base is erected - it separates it from the firebox and consists of several continuous layers of bricks. They protect the lower part of the stove from overheating, while warming the floors. A firebox is built over the base - the part where the process of burning firewood or coal will take place.

The firebox consists of a combustion chamber and a blower, each of these parts is equipped with a door of the appropriate size. Firewood is loaded through the furnace door, and soot, ash and ashes are raked out through the blower, and traction is also created. The combustion chamber and the blower (it is also called the ashpit) are separated by a grate. It is not there that the loaded fuel lies. Air, passing through the blower, inflates the flame from below, and heat and combustion products fly out into the chimney. The grate is made of thick cast iron so that it can withstand long-term exposure to high temperatures.

A good grate is cast iron

Further configuration depends on the type of furnace. It can be equipped with a hob, oven, burners, as well as warm niches or a stove bench (beds). Many of these functions can be combined in one device. The output of hot gases and heat from the furnace to the chimney is carried out through channels, their schemes are varied.

Video - Detailed laying of a brick oven

If the stove is placed only for cooking, then the channels are laid out so that after heating the hob and oven, the heat freely goes into the chimney. The heating stove does not have appliances for cooking, but it is equipped with several smoke circuits. Hot air, passing through them, heats the stove itself more, which gives off heat to the room. The most widespread are combined ovens, where cooking devices are connected to curved channels or a rough oven. Such a furnace is located in the middle of the house, so that a part of the furnace array goes into each room.

Chimney

Prices for various types of chimneys

Chimneys

After the air and carbon monoxide go around all the windings of the channels, they are discharged into the chimney - a pipe that goes outside. In brick ovens, the pipe is also made of brick, and its output is most often carried out through the roof. Now prefabricated chimneys of round section on locks are widely used.

They are made according to the sandwich principle: a layer of dense heat-resistant insulation is laid between the inner and outer pipes of different diameters. This pipe is very easy to install and clean: interlock connections dismantled, the clogged area is cleaned, then the whole system is reassembled. True, an adapter is required to connect a brick oven with such a chimney.

When crossing the ceiling, the chimney is lined with mineral wool

Various types of do-it-yourself ovens

If you are planning to fold the oven with your own hands, think about what functionality you expect from it. If you need a unit for heating the house, then you can do without a hob and an oven - this option will not warm up the room so quickly, but it is more simply arranged and reliable for many years.

If there are no cooking appliances in the house, then you need to fold the combined version. In both cases, a winding chimney duct or even a multi-channel system is required so that the heat leaves the furnace array as late as possible, being transferred brickwork. In harsh climatic conditions, a warm couch or bed may be the only comfortable place for sleeping in cold winters. The sauna stove is always smaller and simpler, its feature is the presence of a grate or grid of a heater for better evaporation of water.

The Russian stove, although it has many advantages, is not suitable for everyone.

Materials and tools for laying a brick oven

Brick ovens are good because their construction does not require any specific tool. The main material is brick, it should be given great attention. For laying the furnace, two types of bricks are used: solid red ceramic and fireclay.

White silicate brick cannot be used: it is afraid of high temperatures and after a short time it cracks and crumbles. Ceramic products are fired and therefore heat-resistant. Fireclay bricks are used in areas of the highest temperatures: the firebox, the firebox, the beginning of the chimney. Chamotte has a color from yellowish to grayish, always full-bodied, with the appropriate stamp.

Table 1. Some characteristics of different grades of fire-resistant bricks for firebox lining.

Index / Grade bricks	SHAK	USA	SB
Fire resistance, degrees	1730	1690	1650
Porosity, %	23	24	24
Strength N/mm2	23	20	22

With everything is also quite simple. It is made on the basis of clay, water and sand. Cement is not used when laying the array. Clay can be purchased from stove-makers, or you can get it yourself. It is especially easy to do this for residents of areas with clay soils. To extract clay, it is enough to dig a hole-well 1- 1.5 meters depth, but its quality will be lower. But in open pits or on the steep banks of rivers and lakes, clay is of the highest quality.

Determination of the fat content of a solution

Prices for refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Pay special attention to the metal elements of the furnace: the doors of the blower, furnace and oven, grate, hob. The grates are made of thick cast iron, steel will burn out faster. It is better if the grates are not rigidly connected, but are stacked one at a time: this will allow you to change them one by one if one bursts or burns out. The doors of the firebox and blower are also made of cast iron.

The presence of glass in the furnace door is an optional element if the beauty of the flames is not important to you. The oven door can be ordered cast iron, or steel - the heat is already less here, and the steel will not suffer if there is at least 3 mm thick. There are always cleaning doors in the chimney channel. They can be made from a thin steel sheet with a thickness 1 mm. When installing doors, you need to stock up on asbestos non-combustible cord

Some stove-makers tighten the stove with a frame of steel corners, which are welded together after the stove has been erected. This strengthens the design, but worsens the appearance. With proper laying, such precautions are optional.

The chimney in the attic area is made of brick based on cement mortar. On its basis, concrete is prepared for pouring the foundation for any furnace. There are no special rules here, the higher the brand of cement, the less it needs to be added to the solution. over foundation slab usually put a layer of waterproofing.

Tools for laying a brick heater on wood or coal:

Trowel (aka trowel) - triangular, for masons, with a slight flattening at the end. A mortar is applied to her and a brick is tapped so that he sits down.

The best form of trowel for masonry

A mason's hammer is an ordinary bit on one side and a cut, like a pickaxe, on the other - it is convenient for them to beat off pieces of brick, protruding elements. Requires skill in handling.
Plumb line - a cable or twine, thin but strong, with a weight at the end. A vertical is beaten along it to remove the walls of the passive of the furnace.
Building level - aluminum, with a bubble. It is better to take a 1.5-meter one: a smaller one will not be enough, and with a longer one it is inconvenient.
Angle grinder, also known as a grinder, will be used for cutting and cutting bricks. In addition to a diamond wheel for stone, prepare a cutting wheel for metal if you are going to make small doors with your own hands. Best Bulgarian with large diameter circle - 230 mm.

Video - do-it-yourself heating stove

Brick heating and cooking oven: ordering and step-by-step instructions

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

The array of the heating and cooking stove consists of such structural parts as the lower part, which is laid out approximately to the level of a person’s waist, and a rough or body, in which a chimney channel is laid, which has two or three bends. At the base they arrange a firebox with a firebox and a blower, next to it - an oven (optional), and on top - a hob.

Ordering the heating and cooking stove

Step 1. Foundation. It must be mandatory. Lucky are those whose house stands on a monolithic slab. Then it is enough to remove the finishing floor. In the case of piles, pillars with a grillage or a shallow tape, a foundation is made separate from the main one. Dig a rectangular hole so that the width of each side is greater than the base of the furnace by 30 cm, then lined with waterproofing and knock down the formwork. Reinforced with fiberglass rods or the usual steel. Tie with wire so that at least two horizontal levels are obtained. The pitch of the reinforcement grid should be 40 - 50 cm. Pour concrete in the ratio 1:3:4 (cement/sand/gravel) for brand M 300 and 1:4:5 for brand M400. After drying and a minimum of monthly shrinkage, the foundation is waterproofed.

The first two rows on a waterproofed foundation

Step 2 Next add up the array. In masonry, graphic ordering is used. Bricks are simply laid out as in the picture. Advice of experienced stove-makers: first lay each row dry, that is, without mortar. This will help to identify where the brick needs to be shortened and hung, to control the level and more. The solution is prepared by soaking clay in water. After that, add twice as much of the sand. The fat content of the solution is determined by taking it on a trowel and dropping it back into a bucket or tub. The lean solution will fly off the trowel all over, leaving no traces. Fat will stick, it will be difficult to shake it off. Normal fat will fall off the trowel, but leaves traces on it.

rounded corner bricks give the design a sophisticated look

Step 3 Having laid out the two initial rows, they mount the blower door, and above it - the furnace. Install on nichrome wire, which is threaded into the ears of the door and twisted into a spiral, the ends of which are bent and pressed down with bricks of the next rows.

The firebox itself is made by placing two hewn bricks on the sides of the base. A grate is laid on them, the bricks are placed sideways on top, forming a firebox. To do this, it is better to use fireclay bricks to extend the life of the furnace. At the same stage, the beginnings of three smoke channels are laid out behind the firebox. For 1 0th guide bricks are laid out in a row, which direct gases and gases into the channels. A hob is placed on top of the eleventh row.

It is better not to make it solid, since as a result of repeated heating and cooling cycles, even cast iron cracks and bursts over time. Sometimes cast-iron plates are used, which are laid end-to-end. If one breaks, there is no need to change the entire surface. Modern factory slabs have a series of concentric round caps- burners that are inserted one into the other. This allows you to place the bowl or pan upside down directly into the heat, which speeds up the cooking time. The gaps between the elements compensate for thermal contraction and expansion.

Hob for one burner of variable diameter

Ultimately, after laying out the bottom of the array, only three channels should remain for the smoke to exit. Continue laying with ordinary ceramic bricks, following the order so that all channels are connected into a “snake”. Do not forget to lay out the cleaning channels on the sides. The doors to them are small and light and do not require such sophisticated fastening as in the firebox.

Step 4 After the array, the chimney is laid. It can be of several types - wall, mounted, root. If the stove is laid out after the construction of the house, they usually make the second or third option. A mounted chimney is generally the simplest - it is a continuation of the furnace and requires less brick consumption. Laying is carried out on top of the last row of the furnace in the place where the last bend of the smoke circulation channel goes.

They lead the pipe through the attic floor, attaching, moving the plumb mounts as high as possible, after leaving the roof - with the building level. The pipe, unlike the array, is placed on a cement mortar, since the smoke in this place has already given up all the heat and cooled down. At the exit from the roof, an apron made of roofing iron with a waterproofing substrate is installed to prevent leakage through the pipe riser. It is better to refrain from mounting the cap; it is not recommended according to SNiPs.

Today they also make prefabricated chimneys from ceramic blocks.

Do-it-yourself oven with a stove bench

As a stove with a bench, they imagine a traditional Russian stove, which has a number of features and is difficult to lay for a non-professional. In fact, you can equip a stove bench in a heating and cooking stove. the main task- at the stage of laying the first rows, make an additional "extension" to the main body of the furnace, providing it with a smoke channel.

The foundation for the stove with a bench repeats all the contours of the building, protruding beyond its future limits by 30 cm. The location of the bed depends on the configuration of the rooms. If the stove stands at the intersection of rooms and replaces part of the inner wall, then the stove bench is made from the side opposite the stove facade, where the firebox, blower and hob are located. So the stove bench can be in one room - the bedroom, the living room, and the facade of the stove - in the kitchen. If the stove is at the deaf outer wall, and the room is one, then the stove bench is made on the side of the furnace array.

The smoke channel is made horizontal, for this you need to provide good traction, and from the outer end of the stove bench there are doors for cleaning soot. All corners must be rounded so as not to trap soot particles and prevent smoke from passing through the bed array. The ordering of the upper part differs little from other furnaces.

Brick oven in the bath

The sauna stove differs from the usual one in the functions that are assigned to it and in the operating conditions. It is smaller and simpler. Smoke channels are not so winding, because the resulting heat is enough to warm up the bath. Instead of an oven and a hob, a tank for heating water and a heater are installed in the sauna stove. The heater is made just in place of the hob. A mesh or lattice is constructed along the edges. Planting stones on clay is not recommended.

Scheme of the sauna stove

The water tank is usually made on the side of the firebox. A faucet is provided in the outer wall. At the junction of the tank to the walls of the array, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord. At the top of the tank make a valve for topping up water. If you want to close this valve with a lid, do not make it solid. With strong heating, the water can boil, and the steam should freely go outside. It is not worth heating the stove with an empty tank - this is a thermal load on the seams, and it will begin to be covered with soot from the inside.

You may also be interested in our article on other stove options: inexpensive DIY options, how to choose an efficient stove.

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Since ancient times, the construction of a stove for the home has been trusted by stove-makers who have the appropriate skills and desire to improve their skills. Quality masonry heating structure can be classified as a certain type of art, although building a stove with your own hands is also possible.

At the same time, it should be noted that the construction of furnaces with their own hands is now quite possible. But for this, you should carefully study the recommendations of professionals. It will be necessary to choose the design of the heating unit and quality materials. A home craftsman who built a stove with his own hands will have the opportunity to admire his creation for many years.

Do-it-yourself furnace construction begins with the choice of its structural solution. Not all brick heating units are the same - they differ in parameters and their functionality.

According to the classification, brick kilns of the following types are distinguished:

heating structures;
heating and cooking;
special units.

The latest devices include, for example, bath stoves (see article: ""). You can build a combined heat unit such as a stove-fireplace. For long-term preservation of heat, a brick version of the braziers is equipped. IN cold weather they are heated for one hour either in the morning or in the evening.

The choice of heating design

When choosing the type of stove, the owners of private houses and cottages, first of all, take into account their own financial capabilities. Of course, laying a brick heating structure will cost much more than assembling a metal device. Despite the difference in price, most homeowners still prefer brick-lined stoves.

Building a furnace with your own hands: important nuances

First of all, before you build a stove in a house, you need to make a base for it. For a heating structure made of bricks, a monolithic foundation is performed. Any concrete is used for it, but its grade cannot be lower than 300. It should be observed required depth laying, which should be below the freezing level of the soil.

The laying of furnaces is made of solid bricks using clay mortar. Fireclay bricks are required for the firebox. Be sure to observe the thickness of the seam. It should not exceed 5 millimeters, but it is better if it is only 3 millimeters. It is not difficult to make a masonry mortar yourself. For him, they take quartz sand and mix it with clay in a ratio of 4: 1. You will also need a sieve with cells up to 5 millimeters. Before preparing the mixture, the sand is sieved.

The technology for laying fireclay bricks is similar to that observed when using a conventional one. This will require chamotte clay. If we build a stove with our own hands, many questions arise regarding the installation of doors, stoves, valves and other metal elements. When arranging them, you must comply with the parameters expansion joints- they must be at least 5 millimeters.

All fittings used must be securely fastened. The head above the roof (chimney) is erected using a conventional sand-cement mortar.

A variety of oven accessories are sold in specialized shopping centers and construction markets. It can vary in value at times, depending on who produced it. Foreign products are more expensive than domestic products, but they have a more attractive appearance. Now most often they install a door with heat-resistant glass.

Features of the furnace device

The traditional design of a classic brick oven provides the fastest heating in the part that is intended for cooking, while the walls warm up more slowly (read also: ""). Many consumers are not satisfied with this feature. To solve this problem, an afterburning system is provided. As a result, for cooking, it makes no sense to load the oven completely, but you can get by with only a secondary firebox.

In this situation, the nozzle that supplies air for afterburning fuel performs the function of a blower. In this case, combustion products are removed by adjusting the gate. The chimney is equipped using an iron or asbestos-cement pipe.

The chimney pipe is supplied with heat-insulating elements only when it passes through the room. Outside, it is insulated with basalt wool, and covered with foil on top to prevent condensation from settling on internal surfaces. The junction of the chimney brick with the metal exhaust pipe is minted with an asbestos cord.

When the construction of a heating brick structure takes place in country house, it is not always advisable to equip a shield with wells and channels, as should be done when building a Dutch oven (in more detail: ""). To ensure good traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 3 meters. In summer, a side firebox will be enough to operate the stove. Starting cooking, you need to load about three kilograms of fuel - peat briquettes or small logs. See also: "".

Tips from stove masters on how to build a stove correctly

A good solution to increase the heat transfer area would be to install a steel pipe to which metal radiators are welded. For this purpose, you can also use any iron products.
To build a furnace, you need to use solid ceramic bricks. Dinas products resistant to high operating temperatures should be used when assembling the firebox. The fact is that it gives off heat worse than red oven brick - it warms up longer at a higher cost - almost 2 times (read also: "").
Before you build a stove in the house, the brick must be placed in water for about 4 hours. When laying, bricks should be placed as accurately as possible, leveling with a mallet. If they are already laid, they cannot be moved from their place. Stove makers usually spread the solution with their hands, without using a trowel. If necessary, hew bricks using a mason's hammer, you also need to have a grinder.

Materials and tools

For the construction of the furnace, the following materials and tools will be required:

bricks;
red clay and quartz sand;
cement;
furnace fittings;
corner, plumb line, level;
Bulgarian;
Master OK;
overalls.

It would be reasonable if, before starting the construction of a do-it-yourself furnace House master consult with professionals to take advantage of their advice.

Some tips for building a furnace with your own hands on the video:

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. From the infrastructure it is good if there are paved roads and power lines. In such conditions, the construction of a brick oven for wood-fired cottages will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for space heating and cooking.

We have selected for you schemes and arrangements of the simplest furnace structures, which a novice master can handle with laying. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of the difficult, but extremely interesting activity of the stove-maker. An impeccably built structure will delight both the owner and the household.

In addition to a detailed description of the technology of laying brick stoves, we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. Significant subtleties and the smallest nuances are scrupulously spelled out in the article. To help independent stove builders, schemes of stove structures, orderly briefing, photo and video guides are attached.

Competent selection of material for a structure subjected to high-temperature exposure is an important part of the work of a trained stove-maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from simple conditions, while it should not malfunction, crack and collapse.

Option # 1 - a stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, as if elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, a cast-iron variety is quite suitable.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it is good if it is carried out to the house central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by crackling firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”. In this article, we will consider the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the schemes and all the materials and tools necessary during the process of laying. You just have to repeat all the described processes correctly, and you will become the owner of a good home oven that will keep you warm on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of what type of oven will fit perfectly into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make right choice. So, the types of furnaces are relative to the type of buildings.

Furnace in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very solid foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on the partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for wooden house there will be a compact stove made of heating and cooking type bricks of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or a variant with a bread machine.
Classical Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but does not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Furnace in a country house. Ideal option for country house will become an oven with a hob and a heating water tank.
The stove in the cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer residence imply a visit only in a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the furnace structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
The furnace for the house with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick stove-heater with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but they are equally used only for cooking, therefore they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.

Barbecue hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Baker's advice. When deciding on the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, one must consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the life of the furnace. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For furnaces, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the furnace will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated solid brick oven will slowly cool down, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but higher than M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth buying a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of brick quality. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. Hollow facing bricks have the best frost resistance indicators, while the inner part of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after long downtime ovens. Products silicate, pressed, cast by the method of slip casting, unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

The fireclay brick, made in accordance with GOST, can withstand up to 1350 degrees. From such a brick, you can build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For laying the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark patches, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable for the furnace vault. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, after all, fireclay bricks are operated only at a humidity of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker brick or ceramic refractory.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

if you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbled into crumbs, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, sonorous, long sound;
facets good brick even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS. Download file

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is not correct, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (grains of sand maximum 1.5 mm each) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before kneading. Soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to make several test mixing solutions to determine the desired proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to mix the sand thoroughly, adding it in several steps.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it well, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth planks. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A dried ball of good quality will not crumple when pressed against it.

How much water to pour? Again we make test batches and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trace:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if almost instantly swam, - an excess of moisture;
if the trace is clear, and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the furnace.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, streaky stains remain on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the stains are patterned.

Note! For mixing the masonry mixture, it is desirable to use soft water. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the degree of strength of the solution.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on the bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the furnace is guaranteed to stand for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal parts of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying the oven

Clay mortar for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney is not used. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with the preparation, testing and kneading of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. By setting the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required number of bricks. Brick red solid unary has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
including mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two square meters of brickwork, 122 or 113 solid red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the furnace wall thickness is not 120, but already 250 mm, then for each square meter 128 or 115 bricks will be used, respectively, excluding and including mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase to 0.027 m3.

How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
the number found is multiplied by 0.8 (for heaters) or 0.65 (for appliances with a heating shield).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven with dimensions of 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pieces, round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is considered separately. Its height and design are accepted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Chimneys”), which will be detailed below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. For the otter, cutting and fluff, add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to sum the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by compiling or taking into work the existing ordering scheme, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, gives recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the cost of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to end up with a perfect brick oven that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the choice of furnace equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Stove location selection

So, after you have decided on the type of furnace, determined the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace structure, and also chose construction material and mortar, proceed to the choice of a place for installing the furnace.

Typically, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall - this saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, at the same time being in several adjacent rooms at once with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna heater near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate efficiently (provided that the exhaust and supply vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the furnace, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of work

Stone and furnace works. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A furnace made of bricks has a large specific gravity, therefore, without a reliable foundation, the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, piled, columnar, laid out of blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the base of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow base.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone cushion, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw base is equipped, Special attention giving thermal insulation piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider the method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We accept the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the indents regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2 The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of fine broken brick, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3 We prepare a liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill it with an embankment.

combine 10 cm layers of crushed stone backfill with cement fill. This option is acceptable for bases of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install the reinforcing cage and pour it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture is compacted during pouring with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The top point of the pour should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
pour a concrete reinforced slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls from silicate or red brick, and pour the inside with concrete with backfill (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5 We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks around the edges, halves - inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontality, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly flush with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and frozen. Such products can quickly collapse, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We cover the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but there is a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so there will be warm water even the next morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will heat up a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick, hot.

The height of the furnace will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

During the construction of the furnace (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ShA-8;
cast-iron furnace door with dimensions of 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
door for blower 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one valve for the chimney, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

the key in brickwork is the construction seam. It should be uniform for each row, carefully smeared. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and eliminate the leakage of smoke from the fuel chamber. Follow the process with the utmost care;
before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and lower the bricks for 5-10 minutes in water. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick, in the future, to be at its best. high level. Wet brick after drying eliminates the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in the water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
before laying each subsequent row, use building level and plumb - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the design will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

The first row is laid out of red brick. In total, you will need 24 whole and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, check the horizontal position along the sides and axes of the masonry with a meter level. Check with a tape measure for squareness and alignment. We customize the bricks rubber mallet. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and an ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks whole, we cut four more with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Wet the brick before cutting and fix it securely. We comply with safety regulations!!!

Cutting a brick with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Sawing an oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the cut (cut off) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate with clay internal surfaces channels and furnaces.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it from the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

We fix the door in the same row, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with mortar, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of bars for twisting from 3 to 4) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and the resulting wire twists are passed between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix the oven door blower

Clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates that are widened at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to carve grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked by a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more accurately and accurately, chamfer the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you can only lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, trimming and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. For the entire row, 16 bricks are required. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. Bricks are laid with the beveled side up. We cut off two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow on the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger than it so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (bevels) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise laying the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, slope towards the stove door.

We close the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. The brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, is cut obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel 8 mm thick. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the closet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out laying according to the ordering schemes. For work, we take seven bricks of red and fireclay.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, by the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the furnace door. The whole row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make squeezing, as shown in the diagram, we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. Chamotte is no longer used.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks over the niche obliquely to make a castle floor. We also cut the brick obliquely over the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We block the furnace completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. We cut another brick obliquely above the slab. Consumption - 16 pcs.

From 17 and a half bricks we make a second overlap, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With dressing we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the stove should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the masonry process, the protruding clay must be cleaned off or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel into the furnace to slightly warm the walls. The next day, we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. However, the doors are not closed. When there are no wet marks left on the walls, and condensate on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it can be checked by opening the valves, then bringing a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the furnace, then there is a thrust.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that wet pipes will have slightly weaker traction.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks immediately become noticeable. A faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and cement, cement-lime or just lime mortar is used for masonry, while the brick is chosen to be of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bath in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately repair them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.