The advantages of metal stoves over brick stoves force many owners of private houses to choose them. They weigh little, last a long time, and a wide range allows you to choose a model of any power and for any fuel. However, metal structures have one significant drawback - the body heats up very much and cools down just as quickly. This can cause inconvenience, especially if the stove is located in a living room or bathhouse. Facing metal furnace brick makes it possible to increase productivity, reduce fire hazard and improve appearance heating device. In this article we will tell you in detail how to do it yourself.
A stove in a bathhouse or a private home is an integral part of the room, responsible for creating a cozy microclimate. Metal stoves have a number of undeniable advantages: they are compact, mobile, heat the room well, and are easy to install or even build with your own hands. But one single disadvantage forces many homeowners to give preference not to them, but to massive classic brick structures. The fact is that metal has a high heat capacity - it heats up quickly and cools down quickly. This means that you can heat a metal stove in just half an hour, but in order to always keep the house warm, you need to constantly keep the fuel burning. Of course, a lot depends on the design of the stove itself. For example, ovens long burning can work efficiently for a whole day with just one load of fuel. Lining a metal stove with brick allows you to extend the heating time several times. Brick tends to heat up slowly and also cool down slowly, so even if all the wood in the firebox has burned out, the heated walls of the housing will continue to radiate heat into the room for several more hours. During operation of the stove, its metal body becomes very hot, and just one careless touch is enough to cause a serious burn. And if this building is fenced brickwork, you will protect yourself and your household from such troubles. Of course, the surface will be hot, but not so hot as to seriously harm the skin. And finally, a metal stove in brick looks much more beautiful and comfortable. The masonry can be made using decorative techniques, paint or artistic painting can be applied, decorating the structure in a classic way. This way you can improve the design of the room and turn the stove into the very “highlight” that it was missing.
Materials for workWhat kind of brick to cover a metal stove? Not every material is suitable for this work. Due to regular temperature changes and condensation, the masonry structure can quickly collapse, and all your work will come to nothing. Only baked clay bricks are suitable for lining furnaces. It can be easily recognized by its characteristic red hue.
To choose good brick, throw it effortlessly onto a hard surface from a height of 1-1.5 m. If it immediately breaks, it is better to refuse such a purchase. Then split the brick into two parts yourself and look at the cut - you need products with a uniformly colored core. If there is dark spots, this means the batch was fired incorrectly and its quality is in doubt. In addition to bricks, you will need a special masonry mortar. It must also cope with temperature changes and withstand extreme heat, so any classic cement mortar is out of the question. To line the stove, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio plus 100 g of table salt per 1 bucket of the mixture. If you have a passion for cement mortars, then to prevent the masonry from falling apart after the first heating, add fireclay clay or glue for working with porcelain tiles to the mixture.
Often the masonry is reinforced with reinforcing mesh. To do this, it should be cut into strips of a suitable size in advance. Reinforcement of masonry may be necessary for weak foundations for a furnace that are not designed for additional brick cladding. Furnace liningBefore you begin, you should carefully prepare and strengthen the base of the oven. Because you yourself metal constructions They weigh relatively little and do not need a separate foundation. However, a brick “coat” will give an additional load of several tens of kilograms, or even more (depending on the size of the oven). Not every floor will withstand such pressure, so before laying it is necessary to dismantle the floor and make a separate foundation - monolithic or columnar.
Furnace foundationThe monolithic foundation is the most popular, so let's start with it. To make such a base, disassemble the floor under the stove. The area of the foundation should be such that there is a gap of 10-15 cm between the future brick cladding and the metal body of the furnace. Dig a hole about 30 cm deep, pour crushed stone and sand onto the bottom, compact it, install reinforcement and fill it with concrete. After the foundation has completely hardened (this will take about 2 weeks), you can begin laying.
If you do not have the opportunity to make a monolithic foundation, you can organize a columnar foundation. The pillars are installed in the corners of the future facing box and in places of increased load. This is an economical and at the same time reliable option, the production of which will take a minimum of time. The advantage of a columnar foundation is that in this case there is no need to do drainage or waterproofing.
How to make a columnar foundation for a stove:
It is also acceptable to use ready-made concrete pillars. During the installation process, make sure that the pillars are strictly vertical using building level. Furnace mortarSince a special mortar is used for laying stoves and their lining, we decided to pay more attention to this point. Experts recommend using fine mountain sand to prepare a high-quality mixture, since it is extremely durable and heat-resistant. First, pass the sand through a 1.5 mm sieve to remove debris and small stones. The finer the sand, the neater and thinner the seams between the bricks will be. Thin seams allow the masonry to retain heat longer.
It is impossible to accurately name the ideal proportions of clay and sand for the solution, since in each case the clay will differ in fat content. To determine the optimal ratio of these components, measure out 5 1-liter jars of clay, after passing it through a sieve. Do not add anything to the first jar, add 1/10 of the sand to the second, a quarter of a jar of sand to the third, 3/4 to the fourth, and one sand to the fifth. Add water to each jar to form a solution with a plasticine-like consistency (should not stick to your hands). Make 5 balls with a diameter of 5-7 cm and five small pancakes 3 mm thick. Leave your “crafts” to dry in the shade for 10-14 days, then effortlessly throw each sample onto the ground from a height of 1 m. The option that will not break is suitable. To avoid confusion, it is better to sign each sample immediately. When you have figured out the optimal ratio of components, you need to properly prepare the masonry mortar. To do this, pour the clay into a large container, fill it with water and leave it to sour and gain elasticity for 3 days. Add required amount water and stir the mixture until smooth. It is important that there are no lumps in the solution, so large pieces can be kneaded by hand or with a tamper. The mixture should come off the trowel freely. Apply a little mortar to the brick and apply it to the masonry - if after 5 minutes you cannot tear it off, then the mortar is ready for use.
BricklayingAfter preparing the ideal solution, you can finally begin lining the stove with brick. At the same time, keep in mind that the structure, together with its brick “jacket,” must be at least 20 cm from the wall. If the walls of the house are made of wood or other flammable materials, the distance must be increased to 50 cm.
How to properly line a metal stove with bricks:  The video below shows how to line a metal stove with bricks in detail: But you need to not only know how to line a metal stove with bricks in the house, but also how to use it later. It is very important to carry out the first fire correctly - the longevity of your efforts depends on it. This must be done carefully and not overload the oven so that the solution gains maximum strength with a gradual, but not critical increase in temperature. If you have lined a sauna stove, then after the first fire you will feel qualitative changes - the heat will no longer be scorchingly sharp, will become softer, more even and will stay in the room longer. Brick has another amazing feature - it independently controls the level of humidity in the room. The brick “jacket” around the metal furnace evaporates during heating excess moisture, releasing it to the air, and when cooling, absorbs excess vapor from the room. As a result, the microclimate in a steam room with such a stove will not only be comfortable, but also more beneficial for the body. Metal stoves lined with bricks: photo
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The best situation is when the owner country house(for example) starts building a bathhouse, having clarified for himself as many issues related to it as possible. For example, the question of what kind of stove will it be?, which he is going to put, is very important, because it determines are they needed preparatory work for it during the construction period and to what extent. And if he is going to cover the stove in the bathhouse with bricks, then he needs to make a base of appropriate size and strength.
However, the question of how to line an iron stove with bricks may arise long after the construction of the bathhouse is completed. In this case, the matter may not be limited to simply erecting small walls, but will (possibly) even require dismantling the furnace. In this article we will sequentially analyze each option for the development of events in different scenarios.
Reasons to line the stove in a bathhouse with bricks
Metal sauna stoves lined with brick
The decision must be made carefully, so let’s name the reasons why the lining is done iron stove brick in the bathhouse.
Unfortunately, the metal stove itself is a source of not only rapid heat, but also hard infrared radiation that burns the skin from a distance, without contact with the object. In addition, a rapid increase in temperature in the bath leads to dry air, and this is a big obstacle to creating the right bath microclimate. The third significant reason is that the metal not only heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly and in a bathhouse this leads to excessive consumption of firewood and unnecessary movements.
Brick is artificial stone , and therefore, it takes longer for the metal to heat up and release heat much longer. Construction protective screen made from this material allows for relatively cheap (compared to natural stone) eliminate the main disadvantages of a metal stove: make the radiation softer, warm up longer, but without drying out the air, increase the efficiency of the stove, retaining heat from burnt wood longer.
Creating a foundation before covering an iron stove in a bathhouse with bricks
The problem is that the story begins long before the stove in the bathhouse is lined. And it starts with calculation, without which you will not be able to correctly estimate the weight of the stove together with the screen, and therefore, you will either waste money on the foundation, or, conversely, underestimate the weight and ruin, at a minimum, the floor.
Calculation after which a decision is made on the choice of base
You need to collect the following information:
- dimensions (length, width, height) and weight of the future or existing stove (manufacturers usually post similar information on their websites);
- mass of stones in a closed and/or open heater (also indicated by the manufacturer);
- tank for hot water- if it is assumed, then its mass and the volume of water it can hold (1 l = 1 kg).
Next you will have to figure out what kind of brick you will use - red fireproof or fireclay. Since a discussion of the types of bricks awaits you below, here we will indicate the size of only ordinary red refractory brick, which, by the way, is the leader when choosing to cut an iron stove in a bathhouse with facing bricks.
So, the dimensions and weight of one standard brick— 250 mm in length, 120 m in width, 65 mm in height, weight 4 kg.
Now imagine how many bricks will it take for 1 row, if you put them along the walls of the oven with a minimum gap of 5 cm between the oven and the screen?
Screens are different - on four sides, on three, on two— choose your option, focusing on the height of the stove, and calculate how many rows will fit.
By the way! Do not forget that the brick in the masonry can also be laid in different ways (1/2, quarter and other options), and this will affect the base area.
Multiplying number of rows per number of bricks in a row, get the general quantity the required material, as well as his mass, multiplying the result by 4.
Add the mass of the screen with the mass of the oven, stones, tank, water in the tank. Add 20% as a safety margin.
If the mass comes out less than 700 kg, you can safely make the base directly on the floor boards. Otherwise, you will have to build.
Foundation on foundation
Let's start with the more difficult one. You have calculated everything and it turns out that without a foundation there is no way. The task is easier if you are at the construction stage, otherwise you may have to dismantle the stove, the old base, or part of the floor.
IMPORTANT! You know the dimensions of the foundation by area from the calculations made above. This is a platform formed by bricks on the sides of the stove. Add 10-15 cm to it on all sides.
Start digging a hole. If the soil can withstand it (let’s say, if in the calculations the matter was shallow, then there is no need to deepen the stove too much), do half a meter deep and fill it 3/5 with a mixture of sand and gravel, or just crushed stone.
Keep in mind! Not only should the stove and bath foundations not touch each other, it is recommended that the distance between them be at least 5 cm.
On top of the pillow is usually done mortar screed cement-sand 1:4.
Placed on top of the screed waterproofing, formwork And concrete foundation is poured, can be reinforced, 20 cm high. It will be below floor level.
Note! When drying concrete, it must be frequently sprayed with water to prevent it from cracking.
Concrete again waterproofed, after which they are placed on it foundation bricks- fireproof red or fireclay, which are placed on clay mortar. Height - 1-4 rows. Do not forget to check the horizontal level at each stage.
After that, install your device and begin to build a brick screen for a metal stove in the bathhouse.
Floor base
It is easier to cover a metal stove in a bathhouse with bricks if the base is made directly on the floor. However, you need to take into account the structure of the floor and first calculate whether specific lumber can withstand the upcoming load.
ESSENTIAL! In an old bathhouse, a mandatory procedure will be to open the floors and check the beams and joists for rot and other damage. Replacing the damaged one is inevitable due to the increasing load.
Let's start with the fact that the stove does not press on the floor pointwise, but approximately evenly, because it stands on a brick base. This means that we must add the weight of the foundation bricks to the previously calculated total for the stove and screen, and then divide by the area occupied by the latter, measured in square meters. As a result, we get a load on square meter floor surface under the stove.
In the table below you will find the parameters of beams (width, height, thickness) that will withstand the specified maximum load - 150, 250, 350, 450 kg per square.
If yours don't fit, don't worry - the beams can be strengthened channel, steel strip or rods, as well as wood overlays.
If beams located at a distance of a meter or more, experts advise putting additional beam between them. For example, pine with a section of 100x150 mm.
The next thing to worry about is lags. There are also maximum loads for them. Look for the values in the table below.
If there are no color marks, then the values are not close to the tensile strength. Green color- acceptable, but already limit value. Red - unacceptable!
Joists are easier to replace than beams.
So, having completed the preparatory work with the floor, you are ready to begin creating the foundation. To do this, markings are made on the floor with allowance from the screen is 10-15 cm. If any side or sides of the oven are not covered by a screen, then the allowance is made from the furnace itself.
Don't forget that the rules fire safety require to protect the space in front of the firebox, preventing sparks from entering flammable material. You can either extend the refractory half a meter in front of the firebox, or place a metal pre-furnace sheet there.
After marking, it is placed on the floor refractory sheet- material of your choice: asbestos, ceramic fiber or another option. The edges are secured to the floor using self-tapping screws.
asbestos cardboard (asbestos cardboard)
The next layer is the foundation bricks, the height of which can be, for example, 20 cm. Use only solid refractory bricks- red or fireclay. Solution - clay or with a small addition of cement. Alternatively, you can buy it in a store masonry mixture.
Most often limited two rows of masonry. Excess solution is removed without waiting for it to dry. Evenness is also checked immediately using a level - this should not be neglected.
After such lengthy preparations, we are already close to the story of how to line an iron stove in a bathhouse.
Lining an iron stove with bricks in a bathhouse
All the variety of options can be easily demonstrated by breaking them down into points.
Types of linings
Photo of the finishing of the stove in the bathhouse (at the bottom of the vent for controlling convection)
If you surround the oven with brick walls on four sides, it will full lining. Otherwise - partial. Regardless of how many walls will not be enough to complete, there is a significant difference between one and the other type. It consists in the controllability of convection.
To put it simply: this matters only for lovers of Russian baths. If the convection is controlled, you turn it off at the right moment, the hot air from the heated metal heats not the steam room, but the walls of the brick sarcophagus. They transmit softer heat. Heating slows down. You get the opportunity to maintain the conditions of a Russian bath - 55-60 degrees and about the same humidity.
To control convection, the bottom and top of the screen are made vents with doors or plugs made of pieces of brick - when open, they do not interfere with air movement.
Even with one open wall near the stove, you can only count on a sauna. And the functions of the screen will be reduced to protection against burns, heat accumulation and fire safety. Which, in general, is also not bad).
Ways to fence off an iron sauna stove with bricks
Bricks for lining a metal stove in a bathhouse can be placed different ways. Let's list them all.
By the presence or absence of empty space between bricks:
- Solid masonry- is rarely used because it creates an obstacle to convection and significantly reduces the efficiency of the furnace.
- Discharged masonry- gaps in each row, which is also an infrequent solution, because it also reduces the efficiency, this time of the screen itself. Heat actively escapes through vents, convection is uncontrolled, analogous to the absence of one or more walls.
Downstairs and upstairs vents with doors are the most common option. Controlled convection.
According to the position of the bricks in the masonry:
- Into the brick- rare masonry, which simultaneously wastes a lot of material and reduces the efficiency of the stove, since it takes too much time to heat a steam room with such a screen.
- Half a brick- the best option, which is done by the majority. The thickness of the walls and the stability of the structure are not satisfactory. But if desired, you can reinforce it by placing wire or mesh in the seams between the rows.
- A quarter brick- a rare option, because the wall is both thin and unstable. The latter circumstance can be compensated for by reinforcement with wire/mesh, but it is still recommended to install such a screen only if you have the appropriate experience.
What kind of brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse
Let's say right away that sand-lime brick not suitable for these purposes at all. Here's what kind of brick you can use to line a steel stove in a bathhouse: red fireproof or fireclay. Both are better full-bodied. However, one must take into account that today you can find bricks on sale not only different sizes, but also of varying degrees of decorativeness. In particular, there are options specifically for laying stoves and fireplaces.
What brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse with? depends on the distance you leave between the screen and the oven. Let's say, if it is extremely small and amounts to 1 or 2 cm, then The heating of the bricks will be strong, which determines the choice of fireclay. However, no one (or almost no one) does this. The minimum distance is 5 cm. Already in this case, air flows will not allow the brick to overheat regularly. And if you increase it to 7-10 cm, then inner surface bricks will completely stop heating above 200 degrees. The presence of lower vents also reduces this figure.
Advice! Fireclay is more expensive, so it should be used only where its fire-resistant properties are really important - for example, it is used to line the inside of the firebox. Red fire brick is enough to create a screen.
Having figured out what kind of brick to line a metal stove in a bathhouse, let’s move on to the composition of the solution.
What solution is suitable for lining the stove?
There are quite a few options for masonry mortar. The most commonly mentioned components are clay and sand with the addition of cement, but variations are possible.
- You can take clay and cement 50x50, and then add sand in an amount from 1/10 to 1/3 of the total amount.
- Another option: take twice as much sand as clay and add half as much water as clay. As you can see, this is a cementless option.
- Another option without cement involves equal parts of sand and clay and adding 100 grams of ordinary table salt per bucket of solution.
- Mortars with fireclay powder are less durable than those made from ordinary clay; they are best used for grouting joints inside a masonry well. The proportions are different, for example, this: clay 60%, fireclay powder 30%, cement 10%. Or take equal amounts of cement and sand, add 10-30% sand and 20-25% fireclay powder to them.
Clay You can pre-soak it. Either gently crush the dry mixture on a sheet or in a shallow bath with a small amount of water. And only after gaining plasticity is everything else added to it.
IMPORTANT! Many people advise letting the solution sit for half an hour or a little more before starting to work with it. During this time, the water is distributed, the mixture thickens, and the solution becomes ready for laying.
Technology of cutting an iron stove in a bathhouse with facing bricks
Even before you start preparing the masonry mortar, you need to make sure that the bricks are also ready. Since in a dry form they are able to take moisture from a solution, they are accepted soak in water beforehand.
The process takes quite a long time - at least 12 hours. This is done both if you take a new brick and if it has already been in masonry. In the latter case, by the way, you should not waste time on completely cleaning the old solution.
You should check on the finished brick solution quality- if it does not tear or spread, then its consistency is correct, and you can start laying. Usually they are laid in half a brick, the rows are staggered. Each row is carefully checked for horizontal evenness using a level.
Advice! To comply correct distance For seams, you can use special overlays, which are then removed.
Don’t forget that the screen can be reinforced, which we already mentioned above.
The laid out screen should stand for at least a day before you begin cleaning any excess solution from its surface. Can be used as a cleaning tool drill with a hard metal brush. After this procedure, it will be enough to simply go through with a regular dishwasher brush. soapy solution, and the cleanliness of the masonry is ensured.
Additionally: how to line an iron stove in a bathhouse with stone
Here we see two options:
- or you line it with bricks and then put it on top decorative tiles from natural stone- this will simultaneously increase the heat capacity of the casing, increase the heating time, and also change the design of your stove;
- or you should purchase one of the ready-made stone casings for stoves, which are cut in workshops to fit any model, as well as from any available stone. The most popular are casings made of soapstone (soapstone is softer, magnesite is better in this regard) and coils. However, you can find interesting options and from other rocks.
About the use of stones for lining, see in more detail.
Useful video
The first video will be useful for those who have never laid a brick themselves.
A video about how to get a Russian bathhouse by lining a metal stove with brick yourself and cheaply
In the following video, Teklar demonstrates the principle and procedure for lining its own furnace with an external firebox.
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Well, now you are fully armed with the knowledge of how, why and what you can line an iron stove in a bathhouse with. We can only wish you success and easy steam!
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Anyone who has a place on their property and the opportunity to build a bathhouse will not refuse such an idea. The bathhouse is supported heat humid air. And, it promotes relaxation and healing of the body.
The main object that creates such an atmosphere is the stove.
Pros and cons of a metal stove
Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bathhouse - a metal stove
You can’t do without it in the bathhouse - that’s understandable. But what material is it made from? Its main functions are: heating the room, proper comfort and safety in the steam room.
Let's think about it. What if we put in a metal one? Not a bad option. It has advantages:
- Heats up quickly. Heating the room is possible in literally half an hour.
- There are no installation difficulties.
- Looks great. Fits into any interior. They take up little space.
- Durability.
- Low price.
But, do not forget about the disadvantages of such a stove, namely:
- Difficulty maintaining a stable temperature.
- Maintaining humidity, which is important in a bathhouse, is also difficult.
- When you touch it (it gets very hot), you can get burned as the heat from it comes from a long distance and is not very pleasant.
- Cools down quickly.
You need to think about the safety of your loved ones and yourself, covering up the aggression of the heat from the iron stove with something and how to keep the heat longer in the bathhouse.
This material is brick. It “collects” heat, gradually warming up, and then slowly releases it to the room. In a room that is heated brick oven, it stays warm the next day.
If you choose the right material for lining the stove in the bathhouse with bricks and this also ensures fire safety, then you will have a cozy place.
After weighing the pros and cons, we now understand that the best option there will be a brick lining.
You can do this yourself by preparing everything necessary tools and materials.
But, if you are not familiar with this matter, and you do not want to invite a specialist, use our article. Here you will find a lot useful information How to cover a sauna stove with bricks?
Preparation for work: materials and tools, calculations
If you decide to completely hide the potbelly stove, then when laying it you need to leave space (windows) for heat to escape into the bathhouse.
You can’t cover it completely, only the side and back wall. At the same time, the heat capacity will increase, and the heat coming from the front wall will accelerate the heating of the room.
Again a bunch of questions arise, namely: “What kind of brick should I line the sauna stove with?”
Nowadays, it is difficult for an inexperienced person to understand such a variety of types of bricks.
To make it more clear, we offer you to watch a video on how to line a potbelly stove with bricks.
For such work you need not just a simple brick, but a fireproof, red one. Don't skimp on quality, choose best materials. Your building will serve you well long time, calmly withstanding changes in temperature and humidity.
He's not afraid high promotions temperatures, it does not deform or crumble under them, and is able to withstand it during prolonged use.
To give the stove beauty and chic, you can choose decorated brick, one side is textured.
To be more confident in the correctness of your choice, view the photo of the cover sauna stove brick.
To work you need to have:
Materials:
- fireproof red brick;
- clay;
- sand;
- water;
- asbestos cardboard 10 mm thick;
- a metal sheet;
- steel corner.
Tools :
- Master OK;
- hammer;
- jointing;
- cord;
- order;
- plumb line;
- level;
- rule;
- shovel;
- solution container;
For the solution you need clay and sand, or a dry special mixture produced by industry. Cement mortar will not fit as he is afraid of fire.
Before laying, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.
How much material is needed to line a sauna stove with brick?
Calculate the volume of the potbelly stove by adding the distance by which it is planned to increase the structure, plus the reserve for building a base for the stove (1-2 rows of masonry). If you make a brick chimney, then its area is also taken into account. Now divide the area of the masonry by the area of the side of the brick, add 5-10% to the result obtained, and you will find out how many bricks are needed to complete the job of lining the sauna stove with brick.
The process of lining a metal stove step by step
When you have everything ready, you can begin the process of lining the metal stove.
Bath stoves covered with bricks must have a reliable foundation for installation.
- The structure itself will ultimately be heavy and must be securely fastened.
- If the foundation is weak, then you need a solid or columnar foundation (this is a system of columns installed along the edges of the brickwork). Its height should not reach 40 cm from the base of the floor.
- Before laying, make a solution. Clay and sand are sifted, removing debris and stones.
The clay is soaked in water 3 days before working with it. The finished mixture is checked. It should fall freely from the trowel.
- The stove should be at least 30-40 cm from the walls of the bathhouse.
- If the bathhouse has a wooden floor, then for fire safety, a metal sheet should be laid in the place where the door is installed in the firebox, and the top should be covered with asbestos cardboard.
The lining process itself is carried out in the following sequence, namely:
- The base is being laid out and masonry will be done along its edges. Make the laying in 1-2 rows and allow time for the solution to harden.
- Laying the furnace begins on the base. Remember that the first row must be placed very carefully, and do not forget about the ventilation windows. Two is enough. We start laying from the corner with a whole brick.
- Three-quarters of a brick is prepared for the second row (at the corner). Proper bandaging of rows is required.
- For 30-40 minutes, the brick is soaked in water. Only this kind of brick should be used to lay out the stove; when working with it, the mortar will better adhere to the surface of the brick.
- Don’t forget about one more nuance: the brick around the potbelly stove is laid half a brick thick.
- Leave 2-3 holes at the bottom and top for air circulation around the stove.
- The seams are completely filled with mortar.
- To avoid blocking the corners, they often check with a plumb line, and the parallelism of each row with a level.
- All additional elements (door for air intake, for water, for air outlet and build a chimney or install an iron pipe).
- Insert immediately during the action. A hole is also made in front of the firebox door. Along the edges of the holes, to strengthen the structure, place scraps of metal corners.
- The masonry is done according to the level of the heater.
- When laying, it is necessary to monitor the size of the seams between the bricks: they should be no more than 5 mm.
So we got a sauna stove lined with brick. Oh, you do whatever you want to do next. Do you want to cover it with tiles or tiles, or leave everything as is.
More on the topic.
Metal units have many advantages over stoves made of brick. But metal structures have a big drawback - their body gets very hot, and this circumstance can cause inconvenience if they are installed in a room or bathhouse. The solution to this problem is to line the units with bricks.
Why do you need brick cladding?
Without a stove, it is impossible to create coziness and comfort in a private household or bathhouse. Units made of metal have undeniable advantages, including:
- compactness;
- mobility;
- good room heating;
- Installation is simple and can be done by hand.
But due to the fact that metal is characterized by high heat capacity and the body made of it quickly heats up and cools down similarly quickly, many property owners prefer brick structures, despite their massiveness.
It only takes half an hour to heat a metal unit, but to constantly maintain heat in the house, the fuel in it must be constantly burning. True, a lot depends on design features devices. For example, a long-burning stove can operate effectively for 24 hours on just one load of fuel.
To significantly extend the heating time, you need to figure out how to brick a metal stove in the house. Thanks to this, the time for generating thermal energy increases several times. Brick tends to heat up for a long time and cool down slowly. Therefore, even when all the wood in the combustion chamber has already burned, the heated walls of the structure will continue to give off heat for several more hours.
When a metal stove is operating, its body becomes very hot and careless contact with it will be enough to cause a serious burn. If the unit is protected with brickwork, it will help protect the residents of the house from such injuries. Of course, its surface will not be cold, but it will not heat up enough to damage the skin.
In addition, a metal stove lined with bricks looks more beautiful and original. In this case, the masonry can be done using decorative techniques or painted. As a result, the interior of the room will be transformed for the better.
Materials for brickwork
Before starting work, you should decide which brick to line the iron stove with in order to achieve the desired result. It should be noted that any material is not suitable for this. The reason is that as a result of constant temperature changes and the appearance of condensation, the integrity of the masonry will quickly be compromised and all efforts at its construction will be in vain.
As practice has shown, only baked clay bricks, distinguished by their characteristic red tint, are suitable for cladding metal units. To choose quality products, you should take one product and throw it from a height of 1 -1.5 meters onto a hard surface. If it is cracked, there is no need to purchase it.
There is another way to check the quality of masonry material. You need to split the brick into two parts and look at the cut - a good product will have a uniformly colored core. The presence of dark spots indicates that the batch of products was burned in violation of the technology.
In addition to bricks, you will also need a masonry mortar that can cope with temperature changes and withstand extreme heat. To line a metal unit, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Add 100 grams of salt to a bucket of solution.
If a cement composition is chosen, then you need to add fireclay clay or glue intended for construction work with porcelain stoneware. Experienced craftsmen It is not recommended to mix a lot of mortar at one time before laying; it is better to prepare small portions, since it can dry out quickly.
When it is decided to strengthen the masonry with reinforcing mesh, it is pre-cut into strips of a certain size. Reinforcement is required for weak foundations under heating structure, not designed for additional load from brick cladding.
Arrangement of the foundation for a metal furnace
Before laying brick over the unit, you need to thoroughly prepare and strengthen the base for it. Since metal structures are lightweight, they do not require a separate foundation, but brick cladding will have an additional load equal to tens of kilograms.
Not every flooring capable of supporting such a mass. For this reason, before covering the boiler with bricks, it is imperative to dismantle the floor and arrange a separate foundation - columnar or monolithic.
Most often, a monolithic base is made. To do this, the floor under the stove is dismantled. The foundation parameters should be such that there is a gap of 10 to 15 centimeters between the future brick cladding and the metal body of the unit.
First, they dig a hole approximately 30 centimeters deep, pour crushed stone and sand onto the bottom, compact it, install reinforcement and fill it concrete mortar. The foundation will harden in about 2 weeks.
To arrange a columnar foundation, pillars are installed at the corners of the facing box and in places of the highest load. The advantage of this base is that no drainage or waterproofing is required.
The sequence of actions during the construction of a columnar foundation is as follows:
- Markings are made at the corners of the furnace for mounting the pillars.
- Dig holes located strictly vertically, having a depth of about 50 centimeters.
- A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into the bottom of all holes and compacted.
- Prepare a solution of cement and sand in a 1:2 ratio; it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.
- The solution is poured over the layer of sand in a 10-centimeter layer. Crushed stone or brick chips are added to it.
- After hardening, brick pillars are laid out so that they rise 7–10 centimeters above the floor.
- Install the lower trim beam. The most reliable way would be to lay the channel around the perimeter and weld the edge.
The use of concrete pillars is permitted. You can make sure that they are vertical using a building level.
Preparation of mortar for cladding
Experts advise using fine mountain sand to make a high-quality mixture, as it is highly durable and heat-resistant. First, the sand must be passed through a sieve with cells measuring 1.5 millimeters; the finer it is, the thinner and neater the seams between adjacent bricks will be. The fact is that thin seams help the masonry retain heat longer.
It is impossible to name the exact proportions of sand and clay in the solution, since each time the clay will have a different fat content.
To determine the desired ratio of components, proceed as follows:
- Measure out 5 liter jars of clay, previously sifted through a sieve.
- Nothing is added to the first jar, 1/10 of the sand is poured into the second, a quarter of a liter container of sand is poured into the third, 3/4 is added to the fourth, and a whole liter is poured into the fifth.
- Add water to each mixture until a solution is obtained that has a plasticine-like consistency and does not stick to your hands.
- Then they make 5 balls with a diameter of 5 to 7 centimeters and 5 small 3-mm pancakes.
- Clay crafts are left to dry in the shade for about two weeks.
- Then the balls and pancakes, so as not to be confused, are numbered and thrown to the ground from a height of 100 centimeters. An unbroken option is suitable for masonry.
After the proportion of the components is determined, they begin to prepare the masonry mixture. First, clay is poured into a large container, filled with water and left to sour for 3 days, during which time it should become elastic.
Then add the required volume of water and mix the mass until smooth so that there are no lumps in it. The mixture should come off the trowel easily. Next, a little mortar is applied to the brick and applied to the masonry. If after 5 minutes it cannot be torn off, then this solution can be used.
There is another way to check that the mixture is prepared correctly - you should lower a wooden stick into it. A good solution will cover it with a thin layer, the dry one will be barely noticeable, and after the greasy composition, a shiny film will remain.
Cladding masonry
Before you cover the heating boiler with brick, you must remember that the stove with a brick “jacket” must be located at a distance of at least 20 centimeters from the wall.
If it is made of wood or other flammable materials, the gap should be increased to 50 centimeters. Ensure fire safety of walls made of wood materials possible using finishing made of metal or asbestos-cement sheets.
The furnace lining is carried out taking into account certain rules:
- The masonry must be done in half a brick and not thicker, otherwise it will not warm up. When the first row is made, the indentations are measured from the outside of the unit body to inside cladding. In this case, the minimum permissible distance is 5 centimeters, and the recommended distance is 10 centimeters.
- The laying is done in a checkerboard pattern. The bricks are pre-soaked, the moisture is shaken off, and only then a clay solution is applied over the entire surface. If you do not wet the brick, it will absorb all the liquid from the mortar and the mixture will lose its binding qualities. The brick is applied to the adjacent product with the smeared part and tapped with a wooden hammer.
- In order to increase the rigidity of the fence, a reinforcing mesh is used; it is laid on top of each row of masonry. Where the corners pass, the mesh must be tightened with soft steel wire. It is necessary that the mesh does not protrude beyond the edges of the masonry, but fits tightly to it.
- The seams should be immediately rubbed with clay mortar.
- To ensure unhindered movement of air around the stove body, several holes are left in the masonry. The easiest way to make them is to fasten the brick across. On each side of the cladding you need to equip 4 holes - 2 at the top and bottom.
- The lower openings are intended for the entry of cold air, and the upper ones for the exit of heated air masses. This will prevent overheating of the boiler and ensure free flow of heat into the room.
- Laying is carried out to the top of the metal unit. For the last row, you can take bricks decorated with a textured decorative surface.
- After finishing the masonry, the walls are allowed to dry. The solution finally hardens after a few days.
- Then the surface must be cleaned of excess clay mixture. The bricks should only have an even color. This job is best done with a drill with a brush attachment or the old method using sandpaper. Before starting cleaning, put on a respirator.
- If, after completing the work, dark spots are visible on the surface of the cladding, you should go over them with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Then it is washed off and the masonry is allowed to dry.
But it is necessary not only to know how to line an iron stove in a house with brick, but also how to use it later. It is important to carry out the first fire correctly, since the durability of the constructed structure depends on it.
This should be done carefully, without overloading the unit, so that the solution acquires maximum strength with a non-critical and gradual increase in temperature.
If an iron stove in a bathhouse has been lined, then after the first visit to the steam room, the changes that have occurred will be noticeable, since the heat will become softer and more even, and it will last longer in the room.
By the way, a brick “shirt” erected around a metal unit, when heated, releases excess moisture to the surrounding space, and when cooled, it absorbs excess vapor present in the steam room. Thanks to this, the indoor microclimate will be comfortable and beneficial for the human body.
A metal stove is a convenient and reliable thing at every dacha, in every private home. However, it cools down very quickly, greatly dries out the air in the room and emits harsh thermal radiation, which does not have the best effect on your well-being. In addition, there is always a risk of getting a severe burn if you touch the hot surface of the stove. All these problems can be eliminated very simply - by covering the stove with bricks.
What is this article about?
What kind of brick to cover
Choosing the right material for the job is already half the battle. It happens that tight-fisted owners try to save money and cover the stove with what is left from the last construction project. Halves and quarters of bricks are used. The end result is unlikely to please you with its appearance, so it is still better to use a whole new brick, specially purchased for this purpose.
There are several main options:
- Sand-lime brick;
- fireclay or refractory brick;
- hollow red;
- red ceramic solid;
- facing.
Silicate Fireclay Hollow
Solid Facing
Sand-lime brick is very good for cladding the outside of buildings, but it is not suitable as cladding for a metal furnace. It is made on the basis of slaked lime, which cannot withstand strong temperature changes. In addition, if the furnace is located in a bathhouse, high humidity and temperature will very quickly destroy the silicate material.
Refractory brick is very good as a heat shield, there are two significant drawbacks - the higher cost of the brick itself and its appearance. Its rough and crumbling surface is unlikely to please anyone. You will have to finish the surface a second time - porcelain stoneware, tiles or other suitable material. As a result, it is not practical to buy fireclay bricks for cladding - ceramic ones will cost less.
As for hollow red brick, it is not the worst material to work with. Of course, a solid one is better, since it retains heat longer, but in the absence of one, a hollow one will do.
Facing brick undoubtedly has enhanced aesthetic properties. But like hollow bricks, it retains heat less well, so it is not recommended to use hollow facing bricks for lining a stove in a house. Solid facing brick is quite acceptable.
Thus, the best option For cladding a metal stove, solid ceramic facing bricks can be considered.
Choice of solution
There are no special requirements for the cladding solution. At least they are not as strict as with a full-fledged one. However, it is better not to experiment and use a proven solution of clay and sand.
The sand must be sifted and then mixed with clay in a 1:1 ratio. Next, you can add water little by little, constantly stirring the solution. The final consistency is quite thick, there is no excess water, the solution slides freely from the trowel. If desired, you can add about a quarter of cement grade 400 or 500. The brick will not heat up very much and the cement will not harm the mortar, but will only strengthen the masonry.
If you don’t have clay on hand, you can buy it at a specialized store; you don’t need much for masonry.
If you go to hardware store, That from our point of view It’s easier and more correct to buy a ready-made stove solution.
Step-by-step cladding technology
- The bricks for laying are soaked in water for about 40 minutes.
- If the walls of the stove will be visible after laying, then before starting work it is advisable to wrap the stove with film so that you do not have to clean it later from any remaining mortar.
- If the stove was sold with a convection casing, it must be dismantled, since its role will now be played by the lining.
- To mark, stretch a fishing line or cord vertically along the corners of the future masonry. If the floor is wooden, you can nail two vertical bars to it on both sides of the stove. They are fixed using wooden spacers.
- Mix the solution. You don’t need to do much – half a bucket is enough.
- Brick laying begins from any convenient angle. For this, only whole material is used, which is carefully, guided by a cord or fishing line, laid flat - “in half a brick.” Each brick is carefully leveled. Excess mortar is removed immediately before it dries; the outside of the masonry is wiped with a rag; burlap is good for this purpose.
- The seams should not contain voids and be of the same thickness (5-7 mm).
- It is advisable to reinforce the second row with mesh. It is cut into strips the right size and lay it on the brick, with mortar going on top. The mesh should not stick out from the seams. The corners are reinforced with pieces of wire to tie the entire row into one. The second row needs to start from the same corner, but take not a whole brick, but a half, so that the seams are offset by half a brick - this is necessary for bandaging and strengthening the structure.
- In the third or fourth row, you need to leave several holes for hot air - usually two or three are made on two opposite sides of the masonry, the size of half a brick.
- The next 5–6 rows are made continuous; dressing the seams is mandatory. Do not forget to check each row with a building level for the horizon and vertical, so as not to “fill up” the masonry. Constantly monitor the thickness of the seam.
- In the areas where the firebox and ash pan are located, the brick should not interfere with the doors opening. The bricks must first be laid without mortar, their location must be accurately determined, and, if necessary, cut to the required size with a grinder.
- The row above the door is covered with two pieces of steel strip or corner - on the outside and inside of the masonry. The laying is carried out on it.
- In the penultimate row, two more holes should be made for air circulation - as described above. In this way, it will be possible to achieve proper circulation - below cold air will enter under the heat shield and exit from above already heated.
- The work is usually completed when the masonry reaches the upper level of the furnace. Sometimes the brick is laid up to the ceiling, completely covering the chimney.
- Wait at least 48 hours for the solution to dry completely.
- After drying, the brick can be given a more beautiful and rich appearance. To do this, rub it with a stiff brush, which is moistened with a solution laundry soap. After this, the surface of the masonry is rinsed with clean water.
If the stove is very powerful, it is covered with a special lattice method, leaving gaps between the elements of 10 cm.
For a round stove, the masonry is made round. The technology is not much different from the standard one, although placing the brick in a circle is a little more difficult. Holes for air circulation are made symmetrically on both sides of the masonry. During the work, the main thing is to maintain the same distance between the walls of the stove and inside bricks over the entire area.
