You can drill a hole in any material without much effort by using a hand-held power tool, such as a drill, a drill driver. Probably everyone in the home workshop has such a tool. But when it comes to drilling a large number, moreover, with great accuracy or at a certain angle, it becomes necessary to use a drilling machine.
Drilling machines for home production You can buy stores that sell similar equipment. Basically, this is equipment of joint production - Russia - China, for example, under the name Caliber, Bison, Encore Corvette, there is a purely Chinese manufacturer. Prices for them from 7900 rubles. In principle, it is not so expensive if you tweak the design a little, but the quality - as it turns out, it happens that it comes across and not bad. There are many models made in Switzerland - China, although they are more expensive, but the reviews are not bad.
Drilling machine Caliber, previously manufactured in Moscow, power 400 W Joint production means that developments, for example, in Russia, are made by Chinese workers. At the same time, the name, design and quality of the machine is preserved.
On such a machine, with the help of devices, the accuracy of drilling will be much higher, you can install the workpiece in a vice and drill under right angle, the number of holes per unit of time will be produced more. In addition, if you need to drill holes with a diameter of, for example, 1.5 mm, you can’t do without a machine.
DIY drilling machines
If you buy a machine, then remake the stand, which is very thin and unreliable for most machines, and also constantly repair a failing spindle, it is much easier and more profitable to use the drill that you have and make a drilling machine out of it yourself using standard drawings and scheme . Of course, you should not use a hand drill, if you are already making a machine, then it is good and reliable, but if it is not possible to use an electric drill, and there is a manual one, you can use it.
The main thing in such a machine is to firmly fix the main rack - pipe, on which there will be a support for the structure and a screw that will be running. The drill, planted in the holder, will move along it.
machine from hand drill, which can be completely assembled from wooden parts. From complex structures you can name only the vernier scale installed with a special drum, but in extreme cases, you can do without this node. An example of how such a simple do-it-yourself drilling machine is made from a drill can be seen in the photo, where the author used a connecting rod to make a mount into which the drill will be attached. Also an original and at the same time simple solution for cable tension.
General form machine tool 
Cable fastening on the principle of fastening a string in a guitar For the manufacture of a table and fastening a drill, you can use rolled metal, preferably a rectangular pipe. Of course, this is more likely not a machine, but rather an adapter for a drill, but it does its job well.
If the machine is small, rather a desktop mini machine that will be used for small jobs, you can make a structure for it from wood and plywood, as shown in the first diagram. When manufacturing, it must be borne in mind that such nodes as a lever that regulates the feed of the drill and a spring that gives rigidity to the mechanism must be present in the design. If the drill is mounted for permanent use, it would be more convenient to remake the start button.
Basically, with their own hands, such drilling machines from a drill are made desktop, so you need to take care that the plate stands firmly, there are no distortions on it. In addition, if possible, it would be nice to cut grooves for the movement of the vise, so that along with drilling, small milling work could be carried out.
Using a powerful drill to make a drilling machine, manufacturing features
For milling in combination with drilling and for continuous drilling in metal with large drill diameter they make a drilling machine with their own hands from a drill that has great power and belongs to the class of professional tools.
For powerful drill Requires a stronger stand A feature of using such a drill is its weight and high vibration during operation. Due to the fact that it uses a slightly larger engine, all parts are made of metal, double insulation is usually used, the weight of the drill is higher than that of household ones. Therefore, the manufacture of such a rack should be only metal, in addition, the table should be more massive.
In this case, there are a lot of factory parts, but for a powerful drill, these parts are a godsend. We make the return spring also more powerful, as well as the cable on which the clamp works, must be at least 4 mm in diameter. We also make the handles more powerful, using a rolled metal rod with a diameter of about 12 mm. For the frame, it is better to take rolled metal, the use of a square or rectangular pipe will be especially successful, it can be 50 x 50 or 40 x 60. We take iron for the desktop at least 3 mm, we weld taking into account right angle.
We make the base for the rack We assemble all parts by welding or using 10-12 mm bolts. Stove in ready-made should look like this:
The base plate is finished, it remains to paint Everything must be powerful enough.
Ready stand with drill holder 
Lifting and lowering mechanism We take an asterisk and a chain from an old car, you can find it at a scrap yard.
Watch a video on how to make a do-it-yourself drilling machine from a powerful drill:
Horizontally - a do-it-yourself drilling machine made from a drill.
In order to drill a hole, for example, inside a long shaft, using a vertically drilling machine, even if purchased, it will not be possible to do this qualitatively, no matter how hard you try. Therefore, the idea of making a machine with a horizontal feed will be very useful.
Consider an example of the manufacture of such a machine. To begin with, we sketch a diagram and decide on the tool and materials for our home-made device.
An example of making a do-it-yourself horizontal drilling stand You need to have either a circular or sawing machine, drill or drill - a screwdriver, hand tools, such as a chisel, hammer, various screwdrivers and similar tools.
If we make a fixture out of wood, as in our case, we need to prepare a board, it is better to take pine and plywood 12-15 mm, a piece of chipboard. Standard bolts, self-tapping screws, a bushing, you can take ready-made guides for furniture drawers, you can make it, a nut - an impeller, a handle, long bolts - these are like accessories.
You can try the next, more advanced version.
We assemble a frame from bars and chipboard boards, the width of the board is 20 cm, the length is about a meter. We make two guides that can be moved apart and fixed to a certain width with the help of fastening long screws. For precise drilling, we draw a line that runs strictly along the continuation of the drill. The table can also be raised to the required height with the help of long screws. We make it from plywood and before installation we grind and polish it well. The table is raised by rotating the handle and, as it were, shifting the rectangular prisms with an oblique side against each other. For better sliding on their sides, we stuff strips of laminate.
We install the drill in a special stand made of plywood or a board.
Mounting the drill in a horizontal position A very good assembly option can be seen in this video:
According to the last example, even if you have to tinker with it, the design will be very reliable, it will be possible to withstand minimal tolerances and it should serve, in theory, for a long time. Since such a machine will withstand vibration due to the position of the drill, the play in the joints will not increase.
An electric drill is a versatile tool, since not only drills and cutters can be clamped into its chuck, but also wooden details, if the device is used in lathe. The need for a drilling machine arises when the home master needs to drill holes at right angles. In this case, the master faces a choice: buy a ready-made drilling stand or make a machine from a drill with his own hands. We will show you how to implement the second option.
In the manufacture of a stand for fixing a drill, it is necessary to understand the principle of its operation, and show imagination in the manufacture of its individual components.
Rack Option #1
For example, the following is an instruction for making a drill fixture from simple improvised materials.
- To attach the drill to the sled, clamps are used, under which a rubber gasket is placed.
- To raise and lower the movable part of the sled to which the power tool is attached, a stand with a lever is used.
- To limit the depth of drilling, an adjustable stop is installed under the lever.
- The fixed part of the slide is attached to the pipe with a flange.
- The vertical and horizontal parts of the pipe are connected by an elbow. Required for connection maintain a right angle. The vertical pipe is fixed in a flange screwed to the frame. Instead of a pipe, you can use “kerchiefs” made of chipboard, which are fixed to the frame and to the fixed part of the slide using euro screws (confirmations).
- On the movable platform, it is necessary to make 4 holes for the clamps used to clamp the body of the device. Also on the side that will be turned to the fixed part of the rack, it is necessary to glue the rails. For better glide, they are lubricated with paraffin.
- In order to prevent the body of the device from falling, 2 stops can be installed at the bottom, as shown in the figure.
- To align the body of the unit at a right angle, you can glue the rail required thickness(thickness is determined by the selection method).
- The guides in this design are made of aluminum profile. But you can also replace them with ball (telescopic) guides, which are used to install boxes in furniture. The task of the guides is a rigid (without backlash) and at the same time movable connection of the rack parts.
- To assemble the lever, and at the same time it could move, the nut should not be tightened all the way. To fix the nut and prevent its spontaneous unscrewing, another one is used, which is screwed nearby.
- The part of the lever attached to the movable platform must be rounded at the end.
- If you need the unit to rise to the top position after drilling, you can install a spring by attaching one end to the movable platform and the other to the horizontal part of the pipe. If the spring is short, you can lengthen it with a cord.
Rack Option #2
The figure below shows another homemade drilling machine, the stand for which can be made from thick plywood, and the rest of the parts from a wooden beam.
The role of the guide in a drilling machine made from a drill is played by aluminum profile. But, if you do not find such a profile, then you can replace it with furniture guides(telescopic).
Rack Option #3
If you have a house lying around soviet era photo enlarger, then it can serve as the basis for a stand for a drill. This design already has rigid guides, as well as a gear mechanism that provides vertical movement of the carriage along them.
You only need to modify the design a little by attaching clamps to the carriage, and comfortable handles to the height adjuster.
Well, if you don’t have the desire to design devices for a drill with your own hands, or you just don’t have time for it, but you still need to drill a hole with a drill strictly at a right angle, then you can buy a ready-made stand at a price of about 1200 rubles.
Other options for drill machines
The drilling machine can serve as an engine for constructing various woodworking tools. Consider what else you can make a machine from a drill with your own hands.
Frazier
To make a router with a drill, you will need to take a regular clamp used for water pipes.
You will also need to find some chipboard (you can use a slab of old furniture), and then assemble such a structure as in the figure below.
This kind of router can be used, for example, for milling a groove at the end of a tabletop, for stuffing a T-shaped profile, or for shaped milling of the ends of wooden parts. Of course, good quality milling in this way is difficult to achieve, since the device does not have enough speed. For comparison: the spindle of a router can rotate at a speed of 26,000 rpm. and more, thanks to which a high quality surface finish is achieved.
You can also do milling machine from a drill, if you clamp it in such a way as shown in the figure below. In this way, a quarter is selected in a bar for inserting glass, for example, in the manufacture of a window leaf.
For turning small, round parts, you can make a device in which the drill will give rotational movement to the workpiece. by the most in a simple way to perform turning work on wood can be called the one indicated in the figure below.
Such a wood lathe can be made in minutes. To make it you will need wooden beam or a board, a couple of corners, as well as a sharpened bolt.
A more “advanced” drawing of a lathe, which can be made from a drill with your own hands, is presented below.
If you do not have the opportunity to make such a device from metal, as shown in the drawing, then you can do a pair of clamps attached to a workbench.
The first clamp with a clamp can be used to secure the machine to the workbench.
As a clamp for a drill, you can use a small vice with a clamp clamped in them. The second clamp must be clamped homemade tailstock with a screw screwed into it, for centering and supporting the part. The end of the screw must be tapered.
As a handpiece, a bar of the required thickness is pressed against the workbench.
It is also not difficult to design a homemade lathe from wooden blocks as shown in the following figure.
For precision turning work with long and big details it is recommended to make a lathe from metal profile (square).
In the manufacture of this design, it is necessary to accurately maintain the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. The unit to the headstock can be secured with a pair of clamps.
The tailstock must be movable in order to be able to process parts of various lengths.
The tool rest must also be movable and move both along the bed and across it so that you can move it closer to the workpiece to reduce the leverage. If the lever is large, the tool may be pulled out of the hands, and the part out of the chuck, which is fraught with serious injury.
It is important that the support platform rotates, for example, when machining a part at an angle.
If you make such a machine, then it can easily be converted into a universal one. It is enough to clamp an emery or felt wheel in the cartridge of the apparatus, and the design turns into a grinding machine from a drill. In the same way, you can make a grinding unit out of it.
More simple model universal machine easy to make from a regular planed board. To do this, you need to cut it into parts, and assemble the structure, as shown in the figure.
This is what the bed looks like when the table is removed.
The thickness of the board used in the construction is 2 cm. The length of the product is 50 cm. The width of the fixture is 20 cm.
The height of the racks is 9 and 14 cm. The height can be different and depends on what diameter the grinding wheel will be used. The whole structure is twisted with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to smear the joints of parts with glue before assembly.
On top of the racks, 2 clamps are fixed, one of which is cut and unbent. As a soft pad used cut polyethylene tube, nailed with carnations.
On the frame, it is necessary to make a small cut (groove) and expand it from the bottom side so that the head of the coupling bolt does not interfere.
Next, you should twist 2 boards measuring 20 X 27 cm with a bar between them, the thickness of which is 4 cm (this way you get a table). The bar is needed so that the hand can freely pass between the planes while screwing the table to the frame.
A groove is also cut in one plank to secure the table to the base. After that, the table can be attached using a screw with a washer.
Thanks to the grooves, the table can be moved to the required distance to the cartridge. If the table is rotated, it will be possible to move it across the machine. The length of the groove determines the distance that the table can be moved.
After fixing the drilling machine, you will get a universal fixture.
Now, if you clamp the drill chuck grinding wheel- You will receive a grinding unit. The presence of a reverse in the unit during grinding is desirable, but not necessary.
If set abrasive disc (for metal) from a grinder, then it becomes possible to cut metal rods. When cutting metal, be sure to wear safety goggles. You can also install a gear cutter, and cut thin plastic with it.
When installing abrasive wheel - it turns out a sharpener.
Such a unit can be used for turning knives, drills, planer knives, and also for sharpening tools for a wood lathe.
If you fix the guides on the table, and install the drill in the chuck, you get a filler machine.
Thus, the drill, thanks to chuck, is the basis for the creation of machine tools for various purposes. Such an increase in the functionality of a conventional drill will be very useful for home master, at the disposal of which there are various technological operations.
The electric drill is universal tool. In addition to its intended use (drilling holes), it can be used for many types of work. After all, the drill chuck allows you to clamp not only drills, but also milling cutters, grinding elements and even wooden blanks for turning. Therefore, several types of full-fledged home machines for processing and manufacturing can be made from this tool. various materials and details.
Features of the use of machines
Working with a drill on weight while holding the tool only with your hands significantly limits its capabilities. The weight of the tool and vibration do not allow the drill to be firmly fixed in the desired position. But if you think over and design a special frame where it will be stably attached, then an ordinary hand drill will turn into professional, almost industrial equipment.
From a drill, you can independently make the following types of machines:
- drilling;
- turning;
- milling;
- grinding.
Moreover, after replacing the working or cutting element, the machines become interchangeable. Provide two-in-one function, such as drilling and milling machine, turning and grinding. It all depends on the installation conditions and the needs of the owner.
The power of the machines and their capabilities will depend on the type of drill (the power of its electric motor), the method of attachment, since it is in this case that it acts as the main working part of the equipment.
Types of machines
Despite homemade assembly, each machine allows you to produce a wide range of parts of varying complexity and configuration. At correct installation unit, it will practically not be inferior to professional factory counterparts in terms of accuracy and speed of work.
If you also use a high-power drill, designed for long-term uninterrupted operation, then on such a machine it is possible to establish mass production or processing of various elements.
At home, such machines are able to fully satisfy household needs for the repair of furniture, cars, bicycles and many other everyday items. They will help implement many design solutions without the need to contact specialized workshops.
Each type of machine provides for the performance of different works and has its own characteristics.
drilling
A drilling machine is necessary for forming holes in various surfaces - both flat and multifaceted elements made of wood, metal, plastic, glass. The diameter of the hole and the material of the part is determined by the type of cutting element used - the drill.
The principle of operation of the unit is based on the fact that the mechanism that provides the torque of the cutting element (in our case, a drill) is located directly perpendicular to the surface to be machined on a special frame - a spindle fixed to the rack. When the spindle is lowered, the drill enters the surface and makes a hole in it.
The main advantage of working on a machine over manual processing is the hole is more accurate. A fixed drill can be clearly focused and directed to the right place.
It is possible to fix the drill on an additional longitudinal bar placed perpendicular to the lowering / raising spindle on its body - this will allow you to move the fixed tool not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal direction.
Turning
The processing of parts on a lathe occurs due to the rapid rotation of the workpiece around its axis, which is provided by a spindle rotating from the electric motor, in this case it is a drill chuck. The cutting element is fed manually from the side, perpendicular to the rotating workpiece, or penetrates inside, depending on the type of work performed.
The lathe is used for internal and outdoor processing metal, wood or plastic parts:
- thread cutting;
- screw-cutting works;
- trimming and processing ends;
- reaming;
- deployment;
- bores.
The workpiece is clamped in the machine between the torque element (nozzle in the drill chuck) and the clamping guide sleeve. The clamping sleeve is placed on special skids, and is fixed in the desired position with a nut. The length of the skids will determine the size of the workpiece that can be installed in the unit.
In this case, at self-manufacturing machine, the length of the skids is determined individually according to the wishes and needs of the owner.
The drill is fixed in the frame "tightly".
Milling
A milling machine is used to process metal and wooden workpieces using a milling cutter - a tool with special cutters, teeth. During operation, the cutter, turning around its axis, removes a part of the outer layer from the workpiece, giving it the necessary shape.
With the help of a cutter, grinding and other works are performed:
- cutting;
- sharpening;
- facing;
- reaming;
- sweep;
- thread cutting;
- manufacture of gears.
In the case of a home-made mini-unit, the milling nozzle is clamped into the drill chuck mounted on the frame. The workpiece is fed manually or is also fixed in a special clamping device.
Grinding
With help grinding machine clean up various surfaces making them smooth. Grinding also helps to change the shape of the workpiece, to give it the desired structural appearance, for example, in the woodworking version of the equipment.
As a grinding element, as a rule, is used sandpaper . A special nozzle is clamped into the drill chuck, which has a rough surface - a grinding block.
There are nozzles that provide for the replacement of grinding material - a sheet of sandpaper is fixed on their flat working surface with the help of special Velcro located on the back side.
The grinding process is carried out by processing the workpiece with a nozzle rotating in the drill chuck with a grinding coating. Thanks to abrasive spraying on sandpaper, it removes part of its surface from the workpiece being processed.
In the manufacture of the machine, the drill is clamped and fixed in the frame in one position, and the workpiece is fed manually.
An additional stand can be used as a stop for the workpiece - for convenience, it can be placed on skids, just like in the case of a lathe.
Necessary materials and tools
The torque-creating element, and accordingly the main working part in each type of machine tool, is a drill. The type of processing will largely depend on the nozzle installed in its cartridge. Therefore, to assemble them, you will need identical materials.
To assemble a lathe, grinder:
- rectangular metal or wooden base, bed;
- clamping sleeve;
- clamping headstock, which will be attached to the drill chuck;
- skids for clamping sleeve;
- seat for fixing the drill.
Materials for assembling a drilling, milling machine:
- square bed;
- a metal stand on which the spindle with a fixed drill will move;
- spring corresponding to the diameter of the rack;
- table for workpiece;
- pin for fixing the table.
Of the tools you will need:
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- hacksaw for wood or metal;
- fasteners - bolts, screws, nuts;
- welding machine.
If you plan to manufacture a metal machine, then necessary condition there will be availability welding machine. Since the machine is intended more for home use, its drawings and dimensions of the constituent elements are set individually.
Manufacturing algorithm
Considering that, according to the type of processing, home machines will be interchangeable, and the nozzle installed in the drill will play a decisive role, we will consider two main options for home-made units - horizontal and vertical.
Assembly order vertical machine is.
- Cut out a square base 50 by 50 cm from a piece of metal or wood, 10 to 20 mm thick.
- Exactly in the center at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge, drill a hole in it for mounting the rack. The diameter of the rack must be at least 5 cm.
- Install the stand, center it with a level and weld it with a welding electrode. If manufactured wooden machine and the stand will be wooden, then firmly fix it with self-tapping screws.
- Fix the drill with metal clamps on the movable element, which will be put on the rack, forming a lowering / raising spindle.
- Put the spring on the rack. Its length must be at least 2/3 of the rack.
- Having put the drill on the stand, mark the place where the drill will fall when the spindle is lowered.
- According to this place, cut two through hollows crosswise in the frame.
- A table is installed in the hollow on the threaded pin, on which the workpiece will be attached. A nut is screwed onto the pin from the bottom side, it will fix the table in the desired position. From the outside, you can also attach the table to the pin with a nut, sinking it into the surface of the table so that it does not interfere with the laying of the workpieces.
- It is important that after fixing with a nut, the length of the outer part of the pin is flush with the top surface of the table.
A workpiece is placed on the table (fixed with clamps if necessary) and moves along the hollows in the desired direction. The drill is lowered manually, it rises back due to the spring. To convert the machine into a milling or grinding machine, it is enough to replace the drill with an appropriate nozzle - a milling cutter or a grinding block.
The algorithm for assembling a horizontal machine looks like this.
- Cut out a rectangular bed - the dimensions are determined individually.
- On one edge, fix a seat for a drill with a hollow in the upper part corresponding to the size of the tool.
- Fix the drill on it with a clamp.
- Cut a through hollow for the pin along the bed, and install two metal corners along the edges, along which the clamping sleeve will move.
- The width of the clamping sleeve must correspond exactly to the distance between the guide angles (sliders). From below, a threaded pin is screwed into it, which will move in the hollow.
- By moving the sleeve close to the drill chuck, determine the place where a special headstock will be installed to fix the workpieces.
- Attach a headstock with a metal cone-shaped pin placed in the center to the sleeve.
- The sleeve is fixed in the desired position (for clamping the workpiece) with a nut screwed onto the pin from below.
It is not necessary to spend money on a bench drill, because it is not so difficult to make it yourself. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will walk you through the creation of several designs, and you will be able to choose your own model for assembly.
Almost every owner has a drill, building or renovating his house or apartment, repairing household and garden equipment, various crafts from metal and wood. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special accuracy, you need to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. This will require a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, other improvised material.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of home-made drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others - using engines, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
Desktop drilling machine from a drill
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a manual or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, and stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be transferred to the frame for greater convenience.
Main elements of the machine
The main elements of the machine are:
- drill;
- base;
- rack;
- drill mount;
- feed mechanism.
The base or bed can be made from a solid saw cut of hardwood, furniture board or chipboard. Some prefer as a base metal plate, channel or brand. The bed must be massive in order to provide stability to the structure and compensate for vibrations during drilling in order to obtain neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, from steel sheet - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with lugs or bolt holes and fastened to a workbench.
The rack can be made of a bar, round or square in section of a steel pipe. Some masters use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is fastened with clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and gives greater accuracy when drilling.
Design features of the drill feed mechanism
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the rack and can be:
- spring;
- articulated;
- design by type screw jack.
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and arrangement of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the main designs of desktop drilling machines that can be made from electric and hand drills.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - rack; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 - slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 - drill clamp; 6 - screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 - square for fixing the rack 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 - emphasis for the spring; 11 - wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - machine base
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - frame; 2 - washer; 3 - nut M16; 4 - suspension struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 - bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 - thrust; 9 - spring; 10 - M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 - drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 - handle; 15 - bolt M8x20; 16 - holder; 17 - rack; 18 - a glass with a bearing; 19 - engine
With articulated springless mechanism
Rack, working on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - bed; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - sleeve; 5 - nut welded to the sleeve; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, during the rotation of which the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - machine base; 2 - supports of the lifting plate of the table 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 - table lifting handle; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 - additional rack; 7 - screw fixing the drill holder; 8 - drill clamp; 9 - main rack; 10 - lead screw; 11 - drum with Nonius scale
Machine from a car jack and a drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 - steel clamps; 3 - grooves for attaching a drill; 4 - drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 - guide tubes
Video 1. Walkthrough for an inexpensive machine. The bed and the rack are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - a jack from the Zhiguli and a drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for a drill
Video 4. Step by step creation steel stand for drill
Machine based on the steering rack of a car
The steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the bed must also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to fix the machine on a workbench. All elements are welded, as the connection with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The bed and the support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is fixed to the rack, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the eyelets of the steering column.
To make it more convenient to use the machine, the control of the drill is taken out in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on the steering rack from Moskvich
The order of assembly of drilling desktop machines:
- preparation of all elements;
- fastening the rack to the frame (checking the verticality!);
- assembly of the movement mechanism;
- fastening the mechanism to the rack;
- drill mount (check verticality!).
All fasteners must be made as securely as possible. It is desirable to connect steel one-piece structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
On sale you can also find ready-made racks for a drill. When buying, you need to pay attention to the weight of the structure and size working surface. Light (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
Drilling machine using asynchronous motor
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not desirable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on induction motor, for example, from the old washing machine. The scheme and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is better to do it by a master with sufficient experience in turning and milling, assembling electrical circuits.
The device of a drilling machine with an engine from household appliances
To get acquainted with the design, we present assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main rack | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and threaded M12 |
| 4 | Spring | L=100-120mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | lead screw | Тr16х2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Тr16х2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | bracket lead screw | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of the driving pulleys of the V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one groove to another |
| 15 | electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, made of wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | Drive V-belt "zero" profile, so the pulley block grooves have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Mains cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool Chuck No. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotational motion. It is mounted on its own base - duralumin console.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial bearing rolling no. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special screw M6 with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
Simple circuit diagram for factory machine 2M112
Homemade machines for drilling printed circuit boards
Mini-board drilling machines for radio amateurs also borrow a drive from various low-power devices. At the same time, cutters for cropping photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, collet pencils instead of a cartridge. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights - there are enough opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electric motor control circuit
Video 7. Mini board drilling machine
It has long been noticed that many details of the structures of machine tools for various purposes can be successfully replaced with plywood, while the performance of such a machine will not change at all, but the price component can drop sharply. Homemade plywood machines have beds and tables for cutting material, which can be easily made from plywood.
Casings, movable supports are also quite lifting products for plywood, so today we will talk about machines and the possibilities of plywood.
The machine can be anything.
We will decide on the thickness, solve the issues of price and methods of working with the material
Photo of grinding equipment.
Plywood, like wood, is a grateful but capricious material, requires a special approach and does not like rough interference in its structure.
It must be remembered that depending on the thickness of the material, the approach to working with it changes, namely:
- Thin plywood up to 2 mm, this is a copy for a knife, an ordinary mounting knife, plywood is perfectly cut by it;
- A puff from 2 to 6 mm is already for a jigsaw, and it does not matter which jigsaw you use, manual or electric, this is his client;
- And everything that is thicker than 6 mm is only circular saws.
Although speaking about the design of machine tools and the role of plywood in this process, one can immediately discard thin plywood, it is not used in this work.
We will be interested in two main instances:
- The first is plywood with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Here opinions differ, both specialists and home craftsmen. Some believe that the thicker the plywood, the stronger it is. Others argue that the layering of the material already makes it strong enough, and even compare it to welded or cast structures. As usual, the truth is somewhere in the middle, so we will assume that in this case the price-quality ratio will help us, especially since we do not need a super material that will work in the open air or in water. The machine will work quietly in a home workshop with minimal temperature fluctuations and normal humidity levels.
CNC machine.
- The second is an analogue with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. In this case, it all depends on the purpose for which plywood is used. For example, a plywood cutting machine that is designed to work with a full factory sheet has wide base and requires a special fortress, in this case, twenty is needed. Homemade machine cnc plywood designed for small area fragment, and, therefore, 10 mm plywood will perfectly cope with the task.
More about cutting
Such a “monument” is also possible from plywood.
The drawings of the CNC machine made of plywood suggest figured parts of mobile and stationary modules, which fit so tightly to each other that even gaps are excluded. All this can be achieved by applying simple cutting rules, especially since the emphasis on cutting material has long shifted from hand tool to electric. (See also the article How to cut a circle in plywood: helpful tips by curly cutting)
So, here are the rules to remember when cutting plywood:
- Plywood is a layered material and the main cut should go along the fibers of the first layer of material;
Advice! Practice shows that it is not always possible to cut exactly along the fibers; it is often necessary to use a cross cut. And considering modern designs machines, or their parts, then, for example, a do-it-yourself CNC machine made of plywood requires a large number of not only transverse but also curved cuts. Often there is a need for combined incisions.
In this case, the cut of the first layer of plywood is made with a knife along the patterns, all other layers will pass technical means cut.
- When cutting, keep in mind that birch plywood is much denser than its counterparts. conifers wood (they are looser, and therefore softer);
- It also matters from which side the cut is made. So sawed off front side carried out hand saw with fine teeth, cut with reverse side carried out with coarser circular saws;
- When working on disk equipment, the disk rotation speed is set to the maximum, and the material supply is minimal;
- The saw feeds easily until the first, slight kickback (or perceptible resistance of the material), so you can significantly reduce the likelihood of chips and other defects.
Pretty simple grinder.
A little practice! When working with plywood, it is better to completely abandon canvases with large teeth; a puff is not intended for them. And yet, when working with this material, ordinary adhesive tape can be glued to the place of the intended cut.
The result will be without chips and other defects.
Connection and drilling
From this set, a home drilling machine is assembled.
We have already mentioned that plywood does not like rough mechanical influences on it, so if you decide to connect parts and assemble machines with your own hands from plywood, then you can forget about nails, by the way, and about self-tapping screws too. In this case, there can only be spikes and grooves, while the spike enters the groove like a key into the lock, slots are not allowed, PVA glue is used for fixing.
This equally applies to plywood cutting machines, CNC plywood machines, and all other units where plywood will be used. This is due to the fact that both moving and stationary parts experience vibration and can crumble at the most inopportune moment if other types of fasteners are used.
And a few words about drilling - a sharp wood drill will do.
For your information! When drilling plywood at the exit level of the drill, chipping of the outer level of the veneer is possible.
In order to avoid this, it is necessary to put another piece of plywood under the plywood, it is possible to use waste from sawing the material.
Finishing details
Once again CNC.
Any instruction will tell you that at the final stage plywood is sanded, primed, finished. Emphasize the processing of the edges.
Whether there is a need for painting plywood products, the question remains open, for the reason that the machine and its components experience quite pronounced mechanical, vibrational, temperature effects, and even various coolings often fail to cope with the task.
Coolant liquids are not used for plywood units, and air cooling works according to the principle better than none.
Therefore, in principle, you can limit yourself to the following set of actions:
- Grinding the entire structure with fine-grained sandpaper, you can zero. The process starts from the corners along the fibers;
- The corners are polished separately, if necessary, they can be cut off and then sanded;
- A primer with a special composition, in principle, will not hurt, since in many workshops there is no heating, and plywood is a material prone to delamination, extra protection will not be superfluous.
Finally
Plywood - quite suitable material for the production of machine tools for home use. The video in this article is also ready to reveal the topic.
fanera-info.ru
Plywood machines: materials and tools, selection and highlights of creating structures
All photos from the article
Experienced craftsmen know that many parts in small machines can be successfully made from plywood. If this assembly does not provide for water cooling and excessively large vibrations, then glued plywood sheet is quite suitable for its manufacture. At the same time, the quality of the structure will not suffer, and the price will significantly decrease. Today we will talk about the main points of manufacturing units and assembling machines.
Photo home machine for milling work.
Important: keep in mind that all such designs are designed exclusively for amateur use. This material is not able to withstand the daily industrial load.
A few words about the material and tools
We will not deceive you, making such structures with your own hands can only be done by a person who is well acquainted with the basics of carpentry science and confidently owns all household power tools.
Desktop version of the machine.
What kind of plywood do you need
Although a plywood sheet is deservedly considered a fairly durable material, not every profile is suitable for the manufacture of such structures.
- We note right away that sheets with a thickness of less than 6 mm cannot be used for the manufacture of support and load-bearing structures. In this case, we can only talk about the construction of casings or light protective panels;
- As for sheets with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm, here the opinions of experts differ. Some believe that this thickness is not enough for the reliable operation of the units. The latter, on the contrary, argue that it all depends on the purpose of the machine, a ten-millimeter sheet, for example, is quite suitable for a cutting table in CNC machines made of plywood;
material characteristics.
- Some claim that sheets of medium thickness are well suited for gluing volumetric parts that are subject to periodic vibration, supposedly the multilayer structure of the monolith dampens vibrations better. And in principle we agree with them;
- Sheets with a thickness of 19 mm and above are the strongest. Of these, overall carriers and support structures. And although the price of this material is far from democratic, it is this profile that most masters prefer to use.
Sheet assortment.
But besides the thickness, there are a number of important characteristics of the puff wooden sheet, and since all such structures experience solid mechanical loads, it is undesirable to neglect these recommendations.
- Basically, all plywood is divided into coniferous and hardwood. Softwood itself is lighter and softer, respectively, and the sheet inherited its qualities. The material glued from hardwood veneer, although it will cost more, is better suited in this case;
- Gradations on the chemical composition of the adhesive and the level of moisture resistance for such products are not so important. As a rule, the machines are in the home workshop, and are operated under room temperature and normal humidity. Therefore, you can safely take a thick sheet marked "FC", at a cost this is the best option;
Veneer grade.
- For such structures, the quality of the veneer matters. The more knots, the higher the likelihood of cracking and delamination of the sheet. There is no need to save here, the sheet should be taken no lower than the second grade;
- Sheets are produced with unpolished shirts (НШ), sanded only on the front side (Ш1), as well as fully sanded plywood sheets(SH2). Theoretically, you can take unpolished material and bring it to mind on your own, but in artisanal conditions this is difficult to do. Therefore, experts recommend taking a fully polished material. It is easier to handle, and most importantly, it sticks better.
Tool selection
The construction of such units requires a good power tool, hand saw wood or nozzles on a drill will not work here. There is an opinion among professionals that sheets up to 10 mm thick can be cut electric jigsaw. Anything that falls outside of these parameters requires the use of a manual or stationary circular saw.
Standard electric jigsaw.
Important: modern high-frequency electric jigsaws from reputable and well-known manufacturers, as the attached instructions say, can easily cope with furniture boards up to 20 mm thick. And we have no reason not to believe it.
To sample various kinds of grooves and holes of a non-standard configuration, you will definitely need manual cutter. This tool is better for personal use, since a plywood bed can be made under it and then you will have a personal milling machine. It is these units that are common among home craftsmen.
Manual frezer.
Naturally, in any such work one cannot do without an electric drill and a set of high-quality carpentry tools. different kind clamps, screwdrivers, hammers, files, sandpaper and other little things, by default, any self-respecting craftsman should have.
A set of carpentry tools.
The main points of creating machines
Important: it is better not to make drawings of plywood machines with your own hands, especially if you do not have strong engineering and technical knowledge. As a rule, professional drawings of factory development are taken as a basis.
Only instead of metal, a wooden plywood sheet is used.
As for strength, it is often achieved by increasing the thickness of the supporting and supporting structures by at least 3 times. 
Grinder machine.
When starting to cut a sheet, it should be remembered that the more revolutions the tool is able to give out, the smoother the corners and the better the cut. Both jigsaw blades and replaceable circular saw blades are taken with a fine tooth.
The tool on the sheet or the sheet towards the tool must move as slowly as possible, otherwise, on top layer veneer will be a lot of chips.
Tip: in order to avoid chips during the cut, experienced craftsmen use ordinary tape. It is glued to the surface and a cut is already made on it.
Copy-milling unit.
It was not in vain that we mentioned that you need to be fluent in basic carpentry skills. In such constructions, it is not customary to use nails or self-tapping screws; all connections are made only on the tenon-groove principle. Moreover, the docking must be accurate, no gaps or play is allowed.
Such requirements are due to the fact that a machine of any type and purpose necessarily, to one degree or another, experiences vibrations. And nails and self-tapping screws in wood during vibration can loosen quite quickly. As a result, your machine will fall apart during operation, which can lead to extremely undesirable consequences, up to injury.
Desktop jigsaw.
Both the sheets themselves when joined between planes, and corner connections tenon-groove are often only glued. There are now enough adhesives for wood on the market, but the good old PVA is most often used, but not clerical, but construction.
Tip: during drilling or milling, there is a high probability of chipping on the lower sheet jacket. In order to avoid such consequences, you need to put unnecessary plywood scraps under the sheet, of which there are enough in any production.
Plywood circular.
Not the least important final grinding assembled unit. This is caused not only by concern for the appearance of the car. Poorly polished corners threaten splinters. Plus, the sharp edges will constantly cling, and the veneer will chip off.
As for staining and varnishing, this is left to the discretion of the master. But in any case, the machine should be at least covered with soil. In the very budget option this is a mixture of water and the same PVA, a 1: 1 ratio is enough. Such protection will keep the veneer from drying out and cracking.
Mini turning unit.
Conclusion
CNC machine with plywood body.
rubankom.com
Homemade drilling machine
A hand-held electric drill is not just a popular tool, but rather even an ordinary one. Any work at home with wood, metal or building materials is not complete without a drill. For all its mobility and convenience, the drill also has disadvantages. The main thing is that the accuracy of drilling depends on your hands and therefore is not always ideal.
To accurately drill vertical holes with a drill, you can make a fairly simple machine with your own hands. This machine is built to work with small details, so a low power tool was used. The design itself is simplified, the rails along which the drill moves vertically from conventional roller guides.
For drilling holes and sockets large diameter, the guides will have to be made more serious. Or even do without them completely and use the drill in a horizontal position, see homemade emphasis for drill.
