Once you've mastered carpentry skills, it's great to show off your homemade furniture to family and friends. What could be more pleasant than touching something that has been polished to perfection? razor sharp blade, smell the wood, feel its texture, and then make a clean, fresh cut!
This article covers basic carpentry techniques. How to use carpentry tools to get various shapes, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with scrap wood. Put your workshop in order and maintain it. Some craftsmen sharpen before starting a new project hand tool, clean the workshop and clean all their tools and machines.
Wood preparation and marking
Once you've decided what you'll be doing, separate your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each piece according to its future location in the product, marking the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the segments required length, and the square - the cutting lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.
If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Use a small pencil to mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them at the same time and remember that one part should be a mirror image of the second. Use a knife to mark connections.
Curved cuts
Can be done with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. The hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood, when the cutting line goes away from the edges.
Hacksaws are equipped with rotating bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different saw blades should be used. For curved cuts of small radius and wood thickness less than 50 mm, use jigsaw machine or jigsaw.
Install the new file and tighten it until it rings when you click it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start cutting from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and clamp and tighten again.
Use a drill press and Forstner bits to drill large holes accurately and accurately. Mark the center of the hole, attach the corresponding drill bit and set the depth gauge. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench (this will take some time, but it will be completely worth it). If the hole is deep, lift the drill bit several times as you work to remove waste and keep overheating to a minimum. If you have to drill a lot of holes in identical parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the work table of the machine.
To drill holes for screws and installation holes for nails, you should use a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to screw in a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.
Planing by hand
Planing is a lot of fun when the blade is sharp and you have enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Don't forget to secure the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.
A face plane is good for finishing sharp edges and for cleaning up ends. Position the blade so that it cuts the finest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and avoid chipping.
Selecting grooves manually
Mark the groove using a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the tip of a knife, and transfer the workpiece to the workbench drilling machine and use a suitable size drill bit to drill out the bulk of the unwanted wood.
Remove the shavings, clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.
The groove can be selected using a cutter, and the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The router can be held in your hands and moved along the workpiece; when selecting an open groove, attach it to the work table and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using scrap wood. It is best to select a groove in stages and make several passes. After each pass, remove sawdust to avoid overheating the cutter.
Carving a tenon by hand
Mark the shoulder lines (the length of the tenon) with a square and a knife, then use a thicknesser to mark the height and width of the tenon. Remove any unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First, make cuts along the grain to the shoulder line on all four sides of the tenon. Then trim the tenon along the shoulder line across the grain. Clean the tenon with a chisel.
If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like to work with machines), then a router with a workbench will the perfect tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow it to be placed on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure with reverse side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.
To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, do this. Attach the router to your workbench and install a 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10mm. Adjust the height of the cutter so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to create a 2mm deep groove. Turn off the router, raise the cutter another 2 mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove 4 mm deep.
To select a rebate with a width of 10 mm and a depth of 4 mm, proceed as follows. You will need a straight cutter that is smaller than the width of the rebate (for example, 5mm in diameter). Set the stop at a distance of 5 mm from the rear edge of the cutter, and the cutter at a height of 2 mm. Place the board against the stop and select a 5 mm wide fold. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stopper, to obtain a 10mm wide fold. Switch off the router, set the bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the fold.
Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a cutter that matches the width of the groove or a smaller size and set the depth stop. Using clamps, press a wooden strip parallel to the groove onto the workpiece, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router reaches full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the groove, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you get the required width and depth of the groove.
Milling shaped edges
Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.
Move the stop so that it is not in the way. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece begins to press against the support roller - at this point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, it means either the cutter is dull or you were pulling the workpiece too slowly.
Milling according to template
Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, cut out the approximate shapes with a saw, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut a template from plywood with an allowance for the edges and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.
As a template, you can take an already manufactured part and use a spur cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).
This saw makes it easy to make cuts at any angle. Place the cutting blade on the frame at the required angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press it against the fence, and then make the cut using smooth back and forth movements.
Inspect the workpiece and decide where exactly you need to drive the nail. If this area is near the edge and there is a danger of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to first drill an installation hole using a drill bit whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable sized hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, use pliers to hold them.
Driving screws
You have a choice between mild steel screws, of stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or semicircular heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.
When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.
To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.
If you want to make round parts (chair legs, bowls, plates), you cannot do without lathe. Buy the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget allows - with adjustable chuck and a set of faceplates. Spindle-shaped and cylindrical parts are turned by securing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowls or plates - on the outside of the spindle.
The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off cutter, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.
To cut door handle or latch, you won't need anything more than a good sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood, pressing on the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. To practice, first experiment with soft linden wood, for example.
Installing hinges
The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass hinges (attached with countersunk screws screwed flush to the surface) and steel mortise hinges(fastened in sockets with steel screws with countersunk heads). In the latter case, outline the hinge flap with the point of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should fit tightly in the socket. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.
Sanding wood
For getting smooth surfaces Numerous types of sandpaper (sandpaper) are used. The skin can be used either on its own or wrapped in it. wooden block. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried and after final finishing.
For the first sanding, use regular sandpaper, for finishing - fine sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces use a cylindrical grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.
Natural wood finish
Originally the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left in its natural state, but now also includes oiling or waxing. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.
Allow to dry and sand with the finest sandpaper to remove the “ridges” (the rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat of finish is absorbed), then apply a second thin coat. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.
When finishing items that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil, such as olive oil, instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it in with a cloth.
You have a choice between mineral spirits oil paint and waterborne acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one paint or another is very small, however, after working with oil paint, brushes should be washed with white spirit, and then acrylic paint- running water.
Couples oil paint may cause dizziness and nausea, and acrylic paint may cause dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors if possible.
Special types of wood finishes
When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. The texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface means you don't have to worry about damage from pets' claws.
The brush is moved along the fibers until there are no untreated areas left on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.
A candle flame finish helps hide the imperfections of low-quality wood. Oil varnish is applied to the painted surface with a brush. After a while it dries out and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is passed under the surface. Be sure to wait until the surface becomes sticky (it should show fingerprints) and keep the can of polish and brush away from the candle. It is better to do this work together somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get started with any serious work.
During production wooden products a flat tenon is the most reliable way to connect parts. You can make a spike using a hacksaw - a reward and a chisel. But it is not the best option. It is more convenient to make spikes using simple electric tools.
Most suitable machine for making spikes - this is
stationary milling cutter. In the photo you see the manufacturing method
using a saw mounted on the router shaft. Thorn
passed from both sides, so it will be exactly in the center.
The tenon can also be cut in a vertical position, for this
You will need a circular saw with variable saw height. For
holding the workpiece with a guide ruler and a circular saw better
make it higher than the length of the spike, for example 10-15 cm.
Let's go in order.
1.
We prepare the parts in pure size. At
When marking, you need to add the length of the tenons to the length of the parts. For example
For doors, tenons are usually made 55-70 mm long. , for tables
or chairs depending on the thickness of the legs,
approximately 30-40 mm. .
2.
Using a ruler and a square, we mark the shoulders of the tenon from all
sides Then use a hacksaw to make shallow cuts along the markings.
These will be the shoulders of the tenon.
3.
We will choose the spike itself manual router, end mill
"barrel". A bearing for the cutter is not needed here. For comfort
and accuracy of work, we install an additional support for the router.
This is a part of the same thickness fixed perpendicularly.
Both parts are attached to the table with clamps.
How to make a tongue and groove connection?
Tenon and groove - what is it?
First of all, you need to define what a tenon and groove is. This is nothing more than a way of connecting parts.
It is used most often in carpentry, as well as in other types of production. There are many types of grooves and tenons, but we'll talk about that another time.
Properly executed tenons and grooves are sufficiently firmly connected to each other. This connection is considered one of the strongest.
Tongue and groove connection method
First you need to determine for what purpose this connection method is needed. If this is a table, then the jumpers in it are usually connected to the vertical legs.
Consequently, the wood fibers run vertically and horizontally. If this is a wall table or a bedside table with drawers, then the jumpers here will be located a little differently. They will be horizontal relative to the legs.
In any case, such a connection will be the most reliable. When making a large number of tongue-and-groove joints, special machines are used. If you need one or more tongue and groove joints, and there is no carpentry equipment at hand, then it would be advisable to do this manually. For this you will need a set carpentry tools, including:
- hacksaw;
- clamp - 2 pcs;
- measuring instrument;
- pencil for marking.
First we will make a spike for the future connection.
To do this, you need to take a bar and mark the dimensions of the future tenon on it.
First, mark the length of the spike. We do this on all surfaces of the workpiece.
After this, we place the workpiece on the table, place an even bar on it along the transverse line of the length of the tenon and secure it with a clamp. This is necessary in order to obtain a perfectly perpendicular cut.
We make cuts along the marked perimeter of the length of the tenon, rearranging the bar with the clamp.
We proceed to cutting out the cross section of the tenon.
Using a clamp, we secure the workpiece to the table in a vertical position.
To obtain a straight cut, we will use a pre-prepared T-shaped template. It is a plate of plywood with a strip attached to it, as in the photo. We attach the template to the workpiece with a clamp. Next, we make cuts on the wide sides of the tenon.
On the narrow sides of the section, if it is small, cuts can be made without using a T-shaped template. It is important to control the position of the hacksaw blade; it must be strictly parallel to the workpiece.
As a result, we obtain a high-quality spike according to the specified dimensions.
Let's move on to making the groove.
Again, we start with the markup. On the workpiece at the tenon-groove joint we mark the cross-sectional dimension of the tenon.
We fix the workpiece on the table with a clamp. If the workpiece is thin, then for ease of fastening we take several parts or a board of the appropriate size and fasten them with a clamp, as shown in the photo.
First, we cut a hole in width; to ensure perpendicularity, the chisel is placed at the corner.
We make a recess to a given size according to the tenon length mark, having previously applied it to the chisel tip.
After the specified depth is reached, we clean the groove and insert the part with a tenon.
The tongue-and-groove connection is ready.
How to make a tongue and groove connection correctly? A few more subtleties
Not being able to make a tongue-and-groove joint on a special machine, it can be done with high quality at home, using the method of Yu. A. Egorov.
To do this, you need to calculate the cutting width of the saw, which can be determined by the size of the teeth. You only need to make just a few cuts on any piece of wood.
Getting to work directly, we measure the thickness of the first part (the future tenon) and draw a line on the expected location of the groove on the second part.
Now we apply both parts to one another so that their ends coincide. Along the side edges, relative to each other, we shift them by the width of the cut.
We fix the parts in the workbench and make cuts evenly across the width. In the case of different thicknesses of parts, the thinner part contains deeper cuts and vice versa. Special attention, make sure that the cuts do not create cone-shaped tenons.
If the shift is less than the width of the cut, the parts will fit tightly. This will be important for any kind of furniture fastenings.
By making the shift greater than the width of the cut, the normal operation of detachable fasteners (on a pin) is ensured.
Observing the depth and length of the cuts, we make new ones in the middle of the tenons we don’t need. After this, we carefully remove the tenons that are unsuitable for us with a chisel, making grooves out of them, and clean them.
If the connection is supposed to be permanent, it is glued on and the entire product is sanded.
How to make a tenon and groove joint with a router
The tenon and groove connection, as we see, can be done manually. However, if there are a lot of tenon and groove joints, it is better to use a router. A router with a work table will be especially useful in such cases.
To facilitate the process of obtaining a hole in the workpiece for a tenon-groove connection using a router in large quantities, for example, making stools, you can make a conductor.
Then making the grooves will take you just a few minutes.
To do this, initially limiters in the form of slats are installed on a sheet of plywood and holes are cut to the size of the required groove for the drawer and leg. Two slats are attached along the width of the router, limiting the transverse shift, the other two are set taking into account the length of the device and the size of the groove.
We attach two bars to the table, the dimensions corresponding to the workpiece, so that it can move freely along its length.
We set and secure the stop.
Then we fasten the device with self-tapping screws to the bars on the table.
We take equipment equipped with a straight cutter and set the milling depth. We do this using a ready-made sample.
We set the milling depth taking into account the thickness of the jig.
A prerequisite for milling is to secure the workpiece with a clamp, otherwise it may move under the force of the cutter.
Then we directly process the groove.
The groove hole is ready.
Let's move on to making the spike. In small-scale production, it is convenient to do this on a circular saw.
We begin making the tenon by measuring the groove. The depth of the groove will be the length of the tenon.
We set the length of the groove on the machine taking into account the width of the tool. We set the circular saw at the level of half the difference between the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove from the table surface. Then we make two cuts along the length of the tenon. It is better to make test cuts when setting up a circular saw on unnecessary pieces of wood, otherwise you can ruin a good part.
The preparatory work has been completed. Let's start cutting out the tenon directly.
For this we set circular saw by the size of the length of the spike, and the size from cutting tool all the way, as half the difference between the width of the workpiece and the length of the groove. We make two cuts along the width of the workpiece on opposite sides.
The next operation will be to change the size from the tool to the stop. In this case, the distance will be equal to half the difference between the height of the workpiece and the width of the groove. We make the remaining two cuts.
Now take a carpenter's knife and round off the corners of the tenon.
The final processing is carried out using sandpaper, for convenience attached to a block.
We check how the tenon fits into the groove. It should fit snugly and not wobble.
Thus, we looked at some types of tenons and grooves that you can make either yourself or by ordering from the factory.
Although in Lately and metal guides and all kinds of new fasteners are coming into fashion, but the tongue-and-groove connection still deserves respect and is one of the most durable connections.
Using it not only in woodworking products, various enterprises began to produce higher quality goods.
You can also watch a video of making tenons on a tabletop circular saw
Selected for you:
There are many types various connections, which are widely used today in repairs. They are needed for assembling and repairing furniture, for connecting individual parts of some functional elements. But it is the tenon joint that has earned the greatest popularity among all types.
A tenon joint is a connection wooden parts by tightly fitting the tenons into the holes (grooves).
Mortise and tenon joints are used for the most part For wooden materials. It provides a fairly strong joining, while preventing the parts from deforming. This is especially good for furniture, when it is necessary to ensure maximum reliability of fasteners.
Anyone can make a tenon joint, but before serious assembly you need to practice properly if you do not have any carpentry skills. As a result, you can get a fairly high-quality fixation. And if you additionally fasten it with metal corners, then the strength of your furniture will be at a high level.
Manufacturing of dovetail tenon and mortise.
There are many ways in which a tenon joint can be made. But before considering the main most common ones, it is advisable to take into account some rules and subtleties that will definitely need to be followed while performing the work:
- If you have the opportunity, make the tenon using special precision equipment. This will ensure that the sizes of the tenons and grooves match each other as closely as possible. Such equipment is available in every carpentry shop or industrial labor training room.
- It happens that you are going to make furniture that does not require much precision. Then you can make the connections yourself. To do this, the tenons must be cut exclusively along the grain of the wood. In this case, the width should be approximately 17-20 times the thickness of the main part. This way you will be able to avoid chipping and cracking.
- Things are a little simpler when cutting tenons on plywood. In this case, the thickness of the spinal sinus can be absolutely any. The width of the main parts does not affect this. But the principle of matching in the direction of the fiber remains the same.
- After the tenons have been cut out and their size has been checked, the wood must be slightly dried. This refers to the usual keeping of the material indoors throughout the day. This way the wood will be able to take a permanent shape, which will help avoid bending of the joint in the future.
Preparation of the instrument and the first part of the measurements
Now let’s look at the main and most common option for how you can make a high-quality tenon joint with your own hands. It is based on the use of a regular file or a large saw (depending on the required dimensions).
So, the first thing you need to do is choose a tool. It is important to keep in mind that each file has its own cutting width. Therefore, in the end, part of the tenon will become slightly larger. And how much depends directly on this width. That is why, when measuring connection parameters, take into account the width of the cut.
Now start marking. For this you will need a pencil and a ruler. First, measure the parts that need to be connected to each other. After this, the width of the parts is applied at the site of the future cut. In this case, the depth of the cut itself will be exactly equal to the thickness of the main part.
Typically, many furniture designs may require multiple tenons or mortises on one piece. In this case, it is necessary to focus on how similar they will be. If they are identical, then it is enough to take one measurement. At different sizes produced required amount measurements Also remember the rule: it is advisable to make cuts a little smaller in thick parts, and deeper in thin parts.
Marking of the second part
After this, we move on to marking the second part of the connection. To do this, you need to take the two parts that are supposed to be connected and attach them tightly to each other. In this case, you need to ensure that it matches the lines of the cuts. When the parts are perfectly attached to each other, it is recommended to clamp them in a vice so that they do not move.
Now that the parts are properly fastened, you need to apply marks with a pencil on the second part that has not yet been marked, and then make the initial cuts with a file. These will not be solid lines, but just thin marks, similar to scratches. But it is still necessary to do them, since it will be easier to work later. Only when making marks, try to do it in such a way as to achieve perfect evenness and avoid bending.
After this, it is necessary to release the parts and move them further relative to each other. It is important to take this into account. If you move the parts just a little by the width of the file, the connection will turn out to be quite rigid. And if you make the shifts a little more, it will be freer.
However, it cannot be said that any of the options is bad. It all depends on the nature and size of the parts being connected. And also on the specific type of wood used. If you use plywood, then you can make shifts only along the width of the cut, since in any case it will not be subject to severe deformation.
Final formation of tenon joints
When all this is done, we move on to the thorough formation of the tenons and grooves. In order for everything to go correctly, you need to constantly take measurements during work in order to eliminate, if possible, the risk of error. Be especially careful about the straightness of the lines. For large parts use a building level for control.
So, the main part of the work is finished: tenon joints formed. Now you need to finally measure everything to make sure it is correct, after which you can move on to the final design. For this you can use sandpaper or manual jigsaw. It depends on how rough the surface is.
Connection will follow. It is important to consider the type of connection here. They are detachable and non-detachable. Permanent connections should be stronger and more thorough, and detachable connections should be such that they can be disassembled if the need arises. For permanent connections, glue is used, and for detachable connections, the corners must be slightly rounded.
The option of how you can make tenon joints with your own hands has been considered.
There are several more methods, but they are more complex and more suitable for professionals. But if you don’t rush anywhere, you can gradually acquire skills and perform subsequent work simply.
Tenon joints are among the most durable (http://www.woodmastermagazine.ru/assets/files/pdf/2008-3/44_51.pdf).
Therefore, I decided to assemble a jig for making tenon joints using a hand router.
The idea was to make a device for quickly and conveniently cutting grooves for Domino insert tenons, because... ready-made solutions too expensive.
It all started with searching for a suitable idea on the Internet. Next, adapt the idea to your needs and, finally, execute the drawings.
The operating principle is simple (see next photo).
The position of the groove relative to the edge of the workpiece is adjusted using the blue stop. It will be used as a special cabinet.
The width of the groove is determined accordingly by the width of the cutter, the length of the groove is determined by the position of the brown latch.
The black part is a 40 mm wide copy sleeve that fits in the resulting groove.
Next is the search for material. It seemed to me a good idea to make a jig from a 6 mm duralumin sheet. Although, probably, you can make it from any sheet material- plywood, plexiglass, textolite. A search for a suitable duralumin sheet at the local poultry market and at local metal collection sites did not yield any results: “Suitable pieces sometimes slip through, but now they don’t and it’s not known when they will. Call back later.” We managed to find it at metal warehouses required material. They even offered to cut it to size, but the problem is that they would have to take the entire sheet. And this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, what should I do with the remaining 70% of the sheet.
As a result, I found an individual entrepreneur selling D16T duralumin sheets at retail on the Internet. http://dural16.ru/. Maybe someone will find it useful.
You can order a piece of duralumin sheet from them the right size and the required thickness. But not everything is smooth here either. If you take not the whole sheet, but a part, then there is a serious markup.
I bought from them a suitable duralumin sheet 800×500 with a thickness of 6 mm for 4130 rubles, i.e. 614.58 rubles per kilogram. Yes, quite a lot.
In parallel with the search for material, the search for a turner-milling machine began. I scoured a couple of all-Russian thematic forums in search of fellow countrymen. As a result, I found a couple of dozen accounts to which I sent personal messages. Of these, eight people responded, to whom I later sent drawings with a question about the cost of the work. The price range for working with my material was significant - from two to eight thousand rubles.
As I said above, such a tenon cutter can be made from any sheet material. For example, from plexiglass, PCB or plywood. In this case, you can get by with a simple hand milling cutter. I decided to make my tenon cutter from duralumin, so I had to turn to specialists. It was for them that precise drawings were made with dimensions that might seem redundant and complex to some (although upon closer examination it becomes clear that this is not the case). These dimensions are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the router's side and for a specific copy sleeve.
Making it from duralumin is not the cheapest solution both in terms of the cost of the material and the cost of work, but it suits me. It’s interesting to watch how a product you imagined and drew in 3D materializes and becomes a real product.
As we see in the next photo, ready product very simple. When assembling it I encountered an unexpected difficulty. The fact is that in the original design the plates are connected with aluminum rivets with a countersunk head.
It turned out that finding such rivets on sale is not a trivial task. They are not only available in ordinary hardware stores, but even in highly specialized hardware stores. I had to connect the plates with regular blind rivets.
The most cunning element of the design is the retractable tongue, which adjusts the length of the groove for the tenon. The whole trick is just the need for adjustment swallowtail. Otherwise, there are no difficulties in its manufacture. To make it shorter, not one, but two holes are made in the main plate into which a fixing bolt is inserted, depending on the required size of the groove.
In this case, the position of the groove on the tongue itself is chosen in such a way that, in any position of the tongue, the sole of the router does not rest against the locking wing nut.
To attach the tenon cutter, I assembled a cabinet from 21 mm plywood, shown in the following photo. In the upper part of the cabinet there are two parallel grooves for fastening the plate with M10 bolts, in the front part there is a hole for fixing the workpieces on the tenoning machine using clamps.
To give the cabinet the necessary rigidity, I made an additional crossbar inside.
After assembly we get such a device. Before installation, I pre-matted it with 120 and 240 sandpaper. metal surfaces in contact with the milling cutter sole and with the workpieces.
Under the plate I attached a strip of duralumin to the cabinet. This strip expands the possibilities of attaching workpieces to the tenon saw using clamps.
So far I haven’t had the opportunity to give my tenon cutter a real test, but I think it will do the job. I will make the inserted spikes, despite the fact that you can buy them ready-made (http://www.kalpa-vriksa.ru/catalog/vstavnye_shipy_domino_dlya_festool_df500/) myself. Still, the cost of one spike is almost 10 rubles - a little expensive.
Characteristics:
Dimensions - 250x440x112 mm
Weight - about 5 kilograms
Max. cutter diameter - 37 mm
Max. groove length - 154 mm
The thickness of the base under the router is 12 mm
Using this tenon cutter I made
Using a tenon cutter, you can make grooves for insert tenons in the desired place on the workpiece
If it is not possible to secure the workpiece to the tenoning saw, then the movable part of the tenoning saw is removed and attached to the workpiece.
If there is a need to process the ends of long workpieces, the tenon cutter can be placed on its side.
The tenon cutter is quite convenient to use and the result is quite high quality.
P.S. In the comments they wrote to me about another tenon cutter made according to these drawings. The original message can be found below. I’ll just give a summary:
...no need to contact different masters. I made a tenon cutter according to your drawings in one day from aluminum sheet 4 mm thick. 4 mm is the most best option for making it yourself. I used a hand router, a circular saw, a file and an electric drill. Just one more to the plywood frame below aluminum plate secured. It’s better to secure the milled part, pressing it against the top and bottom plates... Aluminum cuts well circular saw and a manual milling cutter at low speeds. Milled with an 8 mm cutter for metal...
I would like to add that this was a great experience. self-made tenon cutters, thank you for your experience.
