Master class on the production of wooden shoe lasts from master Kurokyo (Japan)
For the production of blocks, such types of wood are used that allow the block to be strong at the same time, it is easy to let nails in, and also not to change its size significantly when moisture gets on them. All of the above requirements are met by such varieties of wood as beech, hornbeam, birch, linden and maple.
Master Kurokyo does not say what kind of wood he used, but it could be one of the above.
Kurokyosan does not comment on his video tutorial, but we will try to understand the sequence step by step hand made shoe lasts.
1. Primarily for making a pair of wooden shoe 
pads will require two pieces of wood, preferably a square section about 15x15 in size cm. Again, it is necessary to understand what type of block should be obtained - if it is a shoe, then the neck should be about 3 cm compared to a shoe last. Those. for a shoe block and the initial section of the beam could be smaller, for example 12x12 cm.
2. On the side faces 
workpieces, it is necessary to apply the initial rough sketches of the side profile and the profile of the sole. This requires initial surface preparation with a wood planer.
For application 
perpendicular characteristic lines, it is good to use a metal square, and you can draw with a thin marker or a helium pen (like the master Kurokio) of dark colors. 
3. And here are the side profiles 
and the soles are applied. What will happen next? And then Kurokio-san takes the same saw with which he sawed the original timber and cuts big piece tree, in the toe area. At the same time, it would be nice to clamp the block in a large carpentry or metalwork vice to ensure the safety of work.
4. What tools does the master deck maker use? 
Basically it's tools. 
for wood carving - hatchet, chisels, planes, rasps. Please note that Master Kurokyo most work will be done with round cutters, tk. in some places, the block is not only convex, but also concave, as it were, inward. This is where round cutters will come to the rescue, because. a flat cutter would simply cut off a lot of the right material.
And so, the work with incisors began. 
First you can 
cut with the largest flat chisel. Work with a chisel in most cases is accompanied by light blows with a hammer on the end of the chisel.
This is what the blank looks like with the selected bow. 
5. Turn over the block and, according to the side profile 
we form the heel 
lift, which is necessary to install a heel of a pre-calculated height. It is more convenient to work in this place with a flat chisel. At the end of this step, the corner transition can be rounded off by grinding machine, which shows us the master Kurokio. After sanding, it is necessary to reapply the sole profile, as the previous profile was hewn along with the tree. 
6. Next, you need to remove a lot of unnecessary 
material on the sides, especially closer to the heel 
stocks, so Kurokio-san decided to use a small Japanese tamahawk for this.
7. Similarly, the master logger cuts the tree and from the sides into 
toe part of the block blank.
After this stage, the block takes on a shape resembling a felt boot. 
8. It's time to work just in the area where the block has 
concavity. In these places, it will not be possible to work with flat chisels in any way, because. it is necessary to make a cut only in a narrow 
areas along the path of the cutter. You have to use a large round cutter. The master treats them with places in the area of \u200b\u200blifting the block and in the heel area in the ankle area.
This is how the block looks bizarre after a round chisel has passed through it. 
9. Very important when manual 
processing shoe lasts not to lose the line of symmetry. To do this, whenever it becomes possible to cut or grind the line of the middle of the block, you can pre-install centering studs, which in the future will allow you to restore the lost lines.
10.
Again we turn to the grinding machine to trim the unnecessary corrugation.
11.
As the outlines of the block approach the given dimensions, it is necessary to move on to more accurate tools. In this case, these are rasps with a different pattern of the working part. Again, it is clear that not only flat but also rasps with a semicircular profile will be needed.
Here you can see how Kurokio-san processes the heel part of the sole with a rasp.
12.
It's time to take care of the bulge of the sole. See what tool Kurokio uses for this - an ordinary sharpened shoe knife. The Japanese character means 
the top point of the bulge.
13.
But the master makes the bulge in the toe area with a small rounded planer. There are no hard and fast rules here. 
tool for this or that processing. Each master has the right to choose the tool that is most convenient for him. 
14. So, up to a given profile, the soles remained 
a few millimeters. Now you need to be extremely careful and attentive. Let's see if Master Kurokio will cope with this crucial stage. 
Yes, he again went to the trick - he turned to grinder, because it provides, although not as fast material removal as a chisel, but more controlled. The master clearly represents at what point which tool should be used. After processing on a grinding machine, the shoe is already starting to look like a shoe. 
15.
And now some operations are repeated, but with smaller incisors, which means the master 
more accurately and slowly approaches the right size. One can envy the patience of master Kurokio-san when he has to do similar operations again and again but with a more “accurate” tool. 
After processing on a grinder, the block is ready. But what is it? On the sole, one extra millimeter was found along the entire bow! experienced hand the master removes it with a round planer. Several smooth movements of the hand with a small sandpaper,
to eliminate microscopic irregularities. And it was the last, final, victorious touch!
Hooray!!! Block for 1000 dollars is ready! Here it is, Mr. customer! Such blocks, exactly under your foot, nowhere and no one will do it so cool! Want to order more? Wife and children? Please sign up for the list - your number is 374. Come back in 4 months.
This is how a professional drummer from Japan, Kurokio-san, lives and works.
We wish him success, good luck, love, health, and let him at least sometimes arrange a weekend, otherwise this Japanese hard work can eat up the most interesting life impressions.
Let's see two videos that the master posted for the guests of his channel on YouTube.
Part 1.
Part 2.
Alexey Grinev from Krasnoyarsk asks a question:
Decided to start sewing slippers. How and from what can you make shoes for making shoes that could last quite a long time?
Expert answer:
The optimal material for the preparation of shoe blanks is wood, which has hardness, resistance to moisture, and can be easily polished. Birch, beech, maple have such properties. As blanks, it is better to take pieces of timber 12x12 cm. To select the length, you can use old shoes of a suitable size and measure the required distance from it.
To work, you will need the following tools:
- wood saw;
- mallet;
- a set of chisels, including those with rounded incisors;
- hatchet;
- the rasp is flat and semicircular.
You will also need a pair of old shoes, preferably sports shoes (sneakers) that fit your feet well.
Step-by-step instructions for carving blocks for making shoes with your own hands:
- On one side of the beam, the sole of the sneaker is outlined with a pencil, and on its sides the profile of the future shoe is drawn.
- Center lines are drawn in the middle of the lower and upper parts. Drilled two through holes, which will help restore alignment during the processing of wood with cutters.
- With the help of a hacksaw and an ax, excess wood on the workpiece is removed. At the same time, care is taken so as not to cut down the excess. First, large sections are cut, then smaller ones are chopped off.
- Next, the workpiece is processed with chisels to give a shape that is most similar in size to the leg. During operation, it is necessary to constantly check the distance of the surfaces to be sharpened from the center in order to prevent a flaw on the block.
- The final polishing is done with rasps and sandpaper.
If you plan to use a heel, then the heel part of the workpiece should have a corresponding recess.
In the same order, a block for the second leg is made. The process may seem unnecessarily time-consuming, but at the end the user will receive a pair of pads that can be used for a long time and not only for making slippers. Each blank can be used for sewing shoes of only one size and one style. For other models, you will need other pads that can be made according to the same proposed scheme with the appropriate adjustments.
Video: Machine for making shoe lasts
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I have reviewed many MKs, and none of them completely satisfied me. Too long, too dirty, too smelly, too expensive. As a result, the MK for the manufacture of pads from papier-mâché and gypsum was taken as the basis. I only replaced papier-mâché with non-woven napkins and PVA glue to speed up the process.
Materials - gypsum, water, cling film, non-woven napkins, PVA glue, plasticine, cardboard, acrylic lacquer, sunflower oil, putty, gypsum mixing containers, scissors, stationery knife, sushi sticks.
1. Tightly wrap the doll's legs with cling film. It is thin, stretches well and fits, and sticks to itself.
2. We cut out traces from cardboard, apply them to the feet and coat the leg with plasticine, forming future pads.
3. We cut non-woven napkins into strips 3 cm wide, bandage the legs and coat them well with glue. I got 3 layers (there is no photo of this stage). Leave to dry for about 6 hours (I left it overnight). No batteries, just air dry!
4. Carefully cut the dried form with a knife and remove from the legs. We glue the incision and cover the inside of the mold with varnish in 2 layers
At this stage, I decided to play it safe and make another regular plaster mold for pouring. I used a plastic ice cream bucket - I made a cutout for the legs in the side wall there and tightly fixed everything with film and tape.
5. Thoroughly coat the molds from the inside and plasticine with a bucket of sunflower oil so that the gypsum is easier to separate.
6. We direct gypsum - pour water (about 150-200 ml) and start pouring gypsum, stirring quickly. The consistency should be store-bought sour cream. Do not delay - you have 5 minutes for everything, then the plaster will begin to set.
7. Pour gypsum into molds and into a bucket up to half. Do not put the doll the way I have :) The legs must be positioned so that they lie sideways, otherwise “locks” may turn out - places from which you cannot get the workpiece. Insert the shortened sushi sticks into the molds with the blunt ends down.
8. After about an hour, we direct a new portion of gypsum and fill in the second half of the bucket. Don't forget to oil everything again!
9. We leave it again for 6 hours so that the gypsum dries well. Feel it - if the gypsum is warm, processes are still going on in it. Dry gypsum is cold.
10. We disassemble the blanks - we remove the soaked napkins from the pads, take out the halves of the form from the bucket (we tear off the walls of the bucket and divide the form into halves). Let dry if they are damp to the touch.
11. Finished pads turned out with shells from air bubbles. I puttyed the bumps in 2 passes with drying in about 1 hour, then sanded and varnished in 2 layers (I had acrylic-polyurethane parquet), I first need to prime - I just have a varnish without a primer, then I peel off with a stocking :)
In total, in about a day we get excellent pads. Good luck!
P.S. The blank for casting was varnished and put aside in reserve. Then they will need to be smeared with oil, connected, tied and poured into plaster. Then repeat p.p. 9, 10, 11.
Necessary materials:
- Scotch tape narrow - for making molds for pouring
- Film (for example, food) - a substrate for a form
(For alternative production pads instead of adhesive tape and film - silicone sealant+ vegetable oil and a plastic knife / spatula)
- Gypsum - actually for the manufacture (casting) of the block itself
- Sticks (wooden or plastic) - for the convenience of holding the finished block (you can use something else)
- Scissors (knife) - improvised material
- Felt pen (marker) - for marking
- Glue - for attaching the sole and holder
- Tracing paper (paper) - for sole pattern
- Cardboard - for sole formation
- Leveling putty "Aqua" - for finishing pads
- Skin (on a bar or sheet) - for finishing
- Wood putty (or acrylic paints) - to cover the finished pad, so as not to get dirty.
- Lacquer - for the final coating.
- Auxiliary materials - rags, a container for diluting gypsum, a stand (tray), etc.
Approximate time to create pads: 1-2 weeks
Stage 1 - Making a mold for pouring:
1. Since shoes are rarely worn on bare feet, it makes sense to put socks on the doll's legs. BUT! this option has one big drawback: when cutting adhesive tape, you can cut socks too !!! (I’ll be honest: I personally ruined a pair of socks, but I sewed them up!) So who can’t vouch for himself, he can wrap his bare leg (we’ll add volume later when finishing!)
2. We wrap the doll's leg with a film, trying to keep the folds smaller
3. Then we begin to glue the wrapped leg with adhesive tape in the most different directions. Our task is that there should not be places that are not sealed with tape, the order of pasting is any, you can cut the tape (though don’t get carried away with this!). So we bandage, bandage, bandage ... The thickness of the finished pasting is at least 1.5 mm I can say to myself: for three "adhesive" shoes "I left one roll of adhesive tape entirely.
Do this with both legs.
4. Then, with a felt-tip pen, we draw a line in the center of the "adhesive shoe" at the back
5. Carefully cut the "boot" along the intended line. Here is the main ambush - do not cut your socks if you put them on ...
Here are photos of the version without a sock (all the same steps)
Film:
Section marking:
The cut itself:
6. Then we carefully pull the "boot" off the leg and try to remove the excess film. Most likely, you will not be able to remove the entire film, but the formed folds on the ankle and protruding ends are easy! Then we seal (try more carefully!) The cut with adhesive tape. My advice: first a couple of small transverse pieces, and then longer pieces inside, outside, and around the ankle
If luck was with us, we should get two of these "boots"
An alternative option for making the base for the shoe
Silicone mold for casting. The casting is completely accurate. This method is probably not bad for making shoe lasts worn on bare feet or thin stockings.
Manufacturing process:
1. The leg of the doll (I hope you understand that you don’t need to tear off the leg! I did this only because, firstly, it is easy to put back, and secondly, for clarity!) We deprive it of fat. What do I mean? You know what is usually in the instructions for various formulations with good adhesive properties they write "degrease the surface", so to speak, for a better setting. But since we need to take off the form from the leg, then (just in case!) I decided to play it safe. I just wet my finger a little. vegetable oil and rubbed the doll's leg, blotted the excess oil with a towel (the leg should be just a LITTLE greasy!)
2. Then we apply silicone sealant.
3. Literally five minutes later, we also “butter” a disposable plastic knife and level the silicone surface (so that the coating is the same in thickness)
4. After 40 minutes (the silicone grabbed a little from the outside), gently press the shape with your fingers
5. Now we leave all this for the final drying of the day for 3 or even 4 !!! Since I first made one leg for the experiment, and now I’m doing the second one for photographing and telling, this information has already been verified!
6. When the form has dried, as well as the adhesive form, we cut the silicone form from the back, carefully tighten the silicone boot.
Here's what should happen
Appeal to people who care about cleanliness. If you are VERY picky, put something on the table near the sink. But from my own experience I can say that there is no such special dirt.
1. We dilute gypsum in a ratio of 1: 1. You should get such a high-quality kefir or cheap sour cream, in short, the solution should flow more viscous. I have a measuring jug for 0.5 liters, and so, I breed half of the jug - this is enough for the eyes!
2. Pour plaster into "boots"
3. We are waiting for a couple of minutes, you can sort of crush the shoes with your fingers
4. And insert the sticks prepared in advance into the center
Sticks are needed for subsequent work with pads: since the shoes are small, it is more convenient to manipulate. I want to say right away that after the gypsum has completely dried, the sticks may fall out, but holes will remain! We will drop Moment glue there and glue the sticks back, so they will stand tight!
Attention Do not pour the remaining plaster into the sink! We wait a bit and shake it out in the trash can!
5. After 40 minutes - after 1 hour (you will see that the gypsum has set well), carefully release the castings from the tape case
And then ... then the main thing is not to lose your temper from what you see!
Should be something like this
6. And now the most important thing is to put IT away until the next evening (or morning, if you made castings in the morning). In short - hide from everyone (and from yourself too!) For 24 hours (the time of the final hardening of the gypsum).
With alternative production silicone mold for co boatsOur actions are similar to those already described:
1. we breed gypsum
2. fill in the form
3. DO NOT FORGET to insert the wand!
4. Also after an hour, remove the mold from the casting
5. and leave for final drying.
Here is the finished casting
As you can see, the casting is ABSOLUTELY identical to the leg. The undoubted advantage is the accuracy of the casting, there are no wrinkles here!
Now begins the longest (and to be honest - boring!) Stage of manufacturing pads.
Stage 3 - Fine-tuning:
1. Take a leveling putty (I have "Aqua" - it's more convenient to use: you can wash it off with water, and it's harmless) and start to GRADUALLY cover up the bumps. I advise you to start with the soles, when we deal with them, we can put the pads in the right way, and not attach them (after seeing the photo you will understand what I mean!)
Anyone who has ever dealt with paint or putty knows that it is better to do three thin layers than one thick one! Therefore - do not run ahead of the locomotive and make the first thin layer! Wetting the finger, we begin to fill in the irregularities resulting from the casting.
2. Then the most important thing is to find a place where none of the curious household will check "dry" or "not". We leave until tomorrow. Dry.
3. If yesterday you did as I advised, that is, puttyed the sole, then today you need to properly sand it, placing it on a horizontal surface all the time in order to make sure that the pads are level, do not fall on any side, which there are no "crooks".
4. Then circle the doll's leg first on paper, cut it out (giving a small (0.5 mm) allowance for freedom of fitting). Try it on, look ... If necessary, make corrections.
The moment is quite responsible: now we are laying the foundations for our further success, namely, how well our boots will fit later!
5. If everything suits you, circle the paper pattern on cardboard. Cardboard should not be thick, but strong enough, not flimsy.
6. Spread the cardboard sole with glue (I already wrote, I use Moment-Crystal) and glue it to the pads.
We will do further refinement, already taking into account our new sole, which really corresponds to the puppet leg.
7. That's all for today, we leave the pads to dry until tomorrow!
8. The cardboard sole adhered perfectly, and the missing places need to be added a little (in the previous photo you saw that the cardboard edge protrudes beyond the plaster cast). The putty will shrink a little the next day, this is what it looks like
9. If there are small cracks, cover them up and continue to finish the pads.
10. Sand a little more, grease a little more! And we are already close to the completion of the "finishing"! (pah-pah-pah, so as not to jinx it!)
11. When the result suits us, we coat the pads with wood putty. After the "wooden" putty, the pads stop getting dirty, like painted ones. Here is what I got
BUT! This is completely optional! You can simply paint the finished pads, for example, with acrylic.
Stage 4 - Completion of work:
So, finishing is completed. We carefully examine what happened: from the side, from above, from behind. If everything is more or less symmetrical,
1. cover with the first layer of varnish
2. We are waiting for it to dry
3. We cover with a second layer, if you want, then with a third.
4. Now the most important thing is to dry it properly! Leave for a few days until the varnish is completely dry.
In the meantime, you can prepare for the next master class on creating a pattern and the actual shoes themselves and look at my box with everything you need to make shoes, while the varnish dries, we have time to collect everything we need!
5. As a result, I (I hope that you too!) got these pads
