Grinding machine from a grinder. DIY grinding machine: drawings, photos and videos. Do-it-yourself wood sanding machine video drawings

Sanding is one of the methods of processing wood, which allows you to give the blanks a perfectly flat surface. A versatile wood sander will be functional and easy to use. For processing lumber, you can use units manufactured by specialized manufacturers, or you can make such equipment yourself, which will save a lot.

Types of woodworking machines

Currently, there are numerous types of grinders that are designed to perform various kinds of work with wood. They differ in their design, intended for domestic and industrial use. You can easily pick up both highly specialized models and universal machines which are intended for complex processing of wood.

If necessary, you can make a home-made grinding machine for metal or wood, made on the basis of a drill, a motor from washing machine or using other equipment.

Disc units

The working surface of do-it-yourself grinding machines for metal and wood is made in the form of an island metal disk, on which an abrasive is attached. Due to its simplicity of design and versatility of use, this type of equipment has gained wide popularity in the market today.

This machine consists of an electric motor, on the axis of which a circle is put on with a fixed working surface. Abrasive nozzles and sanding paper are attached to the working axis, which allows processing wooden blanks. Despite the simplicity of design, such machines are versatile in use, they can perform high-quality wood processing, giving the workpieces a perfectly smooth and smooth surface.

The advantages of surface grinding technology include:

• Versatility of use.
• Efficiency.
• Reliability.
• Simplicity of design.

A feature of this type of equipment is the ability to adjust the speed of processing wooden blanks without changing the indicator of the number of revolutions of the working element. When working with such a machine, you can move the workpiece along the radius of the circle, which allows you to change the intensity of processing products. On the periphery of the disk, the linear speed will be higher, which can significantly speed up and simplify the processing of wood. But inside the circle, where the linear speed is lower, performed final grinding with the removal of the thinnest layer of wood.

Belt plants

Belt sanders have two shafts between which a continuous belt of sandpaper is stretched. Processing of blanks is carried out by exposing them to sandpaper, which removes thin chips from wooden blanks, giving them a perfectly flat, smooth surface. The working surface of disc machines can be vertical and horizontal, while some models allow you to change the direction of the tape. With the help of such equipment, it is possible to process products of great length, aligning their ends. The simplicity of the design allows you to make a belt grinder for domestic use with your own hands.

drum models

The main purpose of this type of units is horizontal alignment using a jointer. This type of equipment is mainly used in industrial workshops, which is explained by the complexity of its design and the narrow specialization of drum units. With the help of grinding drum machines, wooden products of the same type with the same thickness are manufactured and processed.

Manufacturing of grinding machines

Industrially manufactured machines offered today in specialized stores are distinguished by their versatility in use, functionality and efficiency. Their only drawback is their high cost., therefore, if it is necessary to perform various kinds of grinding work, most homeowners decide to manufacture homemade equipment, which in terms of its parameters and quality of processing is practically not inferior to factory units.

A structurally made do-it-yourself metal grinding machine will consist of the following components:

• Metal or wooden frame.
• Electrical engine.
• Drive shaft.
• Working surface.
• Sanding belt.

When making a drum grinder for wood with your own hands, you need to determine the power of the electric motor used. It is recommended to choose electric motors that develop about 3 kW and are able to maintain a clean speed of 1,500 rpm. On the basis of such a drive, a functional, durable and reliable grinding machine can be manufactured that can cope with the processing wooden products. The easiest way is to make such equipment based on an electric motor from an old washing machine.

The grinder bed can be made of lumber or a metal corner, welded and additionally sheathed with plywood. It is necessary to choose the dimensions of the frame based on the dimensions of the drive used, as well as the dimensions of the wooden blanks processed on the unit. When performing the frame, it is necessary to focus on the existing project documentation, which will allow you to correctly manufacture the bearing base of the machine, which in the future will be able to withstand significant loads.

The shaft of the manual and automatic belt grinder, which is directly connected to the electric motor, can be machined on lathe or use ready-made blanks from industrial equipment. The shafts of the calibrating drum grinder must be located strictly in the middle of the main drive, which subsequently guarantees high-quality processing of wooden blanks.

Optimal width used sanding belt will be 200 millimeters. It can be done from emery, which is cut into strips and subsequently the used abrasive tape is already glued from them. The material should be glued end-to-end, and with reverse side dense matter is laid, which will ensure the strength of the seam.

Having made a grinder with your own hands, you can significantly simplify the processing of wooden blanks, leveling boards and removing chips from lumber. Making such a unit with your own hands is not difficult. On the Internet, it will be necessary to select a diagram-drawing for the manufacture of the machine, and using an electric motor from an old washing machine, make the simplest equipment, which in terms of its functionality and quality of processing will not be inferior to factory-made equipment.

And the grinder is also called a grinder, which translates from English grinder as a crusher.

There are crushers for stones, crushers for meat - we have meat grinders, there are garden crushers that produce wood chips. But if the word is used on its own - just a grinder, it means only one thing: a grinding machine in the field of metal processing.

Grinder is good and useful everywhere, including in household– from competently sharpening a high-quality knife or tailor's scissors to polishing a complex part made of metal or other “difficult” material. In other words, the tool is necessary, it will come in handy on the farm.

Moreover, it is quite possible to make it with your own hands. To do this, it is not necessary to have special equipment and solid professional experience.

Of course, you will have to tinker, but then you will do exactly what you need and, which is very important, save a serious amount of money up to several thousand US dollars.

Are we doing with a disk or with a tape?

Grinder drawing.

In terms of the breadth of the product line with grinding machines, only lathes can argue. There are a huge number of grinders on the market - of all stripes and sizes.

The most famous and primitive in the form of the famous emery is a pair of grinding stone circles with a screwed motor. These machines are sold with a wide variety of schemes and principles of operation.

But if you're planning on making a homemade grinder, it's best to stop and choose between two options: disc or belt.

• Disc grinder - a grinding layer of abrasive is applied to the disc, which rotates when turned on.
• Belt machine, in which the abrasive is applied to a tape wound on rollers.

Which one is better is a misunderstanding. The correct criterion would be “which is more necessary”. The choice should depend on what exactly you are going to grind. If it's relative simple details from, say, wood, home-made disc grinders for wood are more suitable for you.

If you have serious sanding work ahead of you to fine-tune fine details with complex details, choose a belt.

It is necessary to take into account the difference between a suit and a tape, not only in their functional features. Another important factor- drive power. Sanding wooden pieces small size- you have enough power in the range of 160 - 170 watts.

This will calmly give out an elementary motor from a washing machine or even from an old drill.

For belt grinder old household motors will not fit in any way. There you will need an engine with a power of at least 400 - 500 W, and not a simple one, but a three-phase one with starting and running capacitors.

For grinding massive and dimensional parts, the power will be needed higher: up to 1200 watts. We note right away that buying capacitors for the machine will cost you a little cheaper than the motor itself.

Choosing a tape

The machine with a tape is more versatile in terms of functionality: it does everything that the disk models, plus much more. Immediately, we note that there are a great many options for amateur models of belt grinders.

The fact is that the nature of this machine is very plastic, allowing the use of a variety of improvised materials, up to finds in scrap metal dumps.

The main thing is to know and adhere to three rules:

1. The abrasive side of the belt must be set very precisely so that only the workpiece that is being sanded touches it.
2. The tape must be uniformly tensioned at all times and regardless of the type of work.
3. The speed of movement should be different and should depend on only one thing: the type of part and the nature of the grinding.

Designing a homemade belt sander

The device of the grinding machine.

The main ones are:

• A motor or motor driven by electricity.
  It is better to install the drive next to the main diameter drive roller.
• Base or bed.
  It is often fixed directly on the floor, sometimes this thing rides on wheels - this is what is more convenient and necessary for you.
• Two tension rollers - leading and driven.
  Made of metal or very strong wood with a thin layer of cushioning rubber to prevent slipping of the tape on the roll or drum.
• Spring and lever for belt tensioning system.
  The spring is clamping, and the lever is attached to the base and the driven roller.
• The basis for placement of the motor with the drive.
• For a tape with an abrasive, paper or cloth should be used.
  Its width can be very different - in the range from 5 to 30 cm. Grain level - from 80.
• Metal pipes with a thickness of 2 mm or more.
• Metal corners in accordance with the dimensions of the machine.
• Special magnetic stand for metal parts.
• Rail type guides.

Scheme of the device of the grinding machine.

Stages of work:

1. We make the frame of the base or bed.
   - cut corners according to the size of the bed;
   - We weld the frame and corners;
   - we fix a chipboard plate at the bottom of the frame to reduce vibration during operation.
2. We make a work surface.
   - cut the steel sheet to size and weld it directly to the base;
   - We weld rail guides to the upper part of the frame;
   - we make a carriage from corners with wheels for moving along the guides of the bed;
   - on both sides of the working surface we mount and fix bearing supports;
   - fix the screw with the handle on the carriage;
3. Fixing Electrical engine work area lifting system.
4. We fix the gear mounts.
5. Install abrasive tape.
   - cut the tape with a margin of several centimeters at an angle of 45 °;
   - we glue it with an overlap with a glue coating of the side with an abrasive washed off with water;
   - dry the place of gluing with a hair dryer;
6. Getting ready for a test run of the machine.
   – we process all parts of the machine with machine oil;
   - supply electrical power;
   - do a test run.

Safety precautions when working on a grinding grinder

Like any other work on any other machines, sanding on a homemade belt sander is subject to fairly strict safety rules that must be strictly adhered to.

The principle of operation of the grinder.

These rules are:

• It is strictly forbidden to touch everything that moves and the working surface with your hands.
• Wear protective goggles during work to protect against hot abrasive particles.
• Carefully check that the connections and fastenings of all moving parts of the grinder are tight.
• Monitor the condition of the braid of electrical wires.
• A protective cover is mandatory, even though it slightly narrows the viewing angle.

Useful item in the workshop. For those who work with wood, such a device is simply necessary, as it is universal, which greatly simplifies the work. But, unfortunately, such machines have a rather high price and therefore have to be invented. This article will discuss a functional, and most importantly convenient, grinding machine, with detailed drawings and photos. Each item is considered in detail, and if something is not clear, you can always watch the video.

Introduction

There are many options for different grinders, but the most important thing is that it be easy to use. This option design meets many requirements, and captivates with its simplicity, but at the same time functionality. A distinctive feature of this design is that it is used as a driving element conventional drill, and its installation takes less than one minute, and most importantly, it is easy to remove it from the machine and use it for your own purposes.

This article will cover all step by step steps creating a universal grinding machine, but before starting work, you need to prepare well and calculate the full amount of work.

Preparation for work

You can’t do without a tool, so you need to prepare a high-quality and serviceable hand and power tool, namely:

• Sawing machine (or from a jigsaw;
• Milling machine;
• grinding machine or ;
• Drill or (and, of course,);
• Electric jigsaw with;
• Drilling machine;
• . such as "Cyclone".
• Various hand tools(tape measure, pencil, screwdriver, etc.).

Before starting work, it is important that all the material is at hand, then the work will go quickly and smoothly. Thus, to assemble a stationary grinder, we need the following material:

• sheet (size 25 * 36.5 cm);
• fasteners (bolts, nuts; screws, etc.); sealed bearings;
• furniture fittings;
• metal stand;
• sanding belt.

In order to make any workpiece from, you need to know the basic characteristics of the material. In the article "" some characteristics were given (thickness dependence, number of layers, deviations, thickness differences, etc.). An additional table may be useful:

Plywood brand	Bakelized plywood	Aviation plywood	Construction plywood
Sheet thickness*	5-18	1-12
Water resistance	high	Above average	FSF - increased FC - medium
Density, kg/m3	About 1,000	500-650	Depending on the type of wood: softwood plywood density– 660 hardwood plywood density - 800
Tensile strength, MPa	Along the fibers - 80	Shirts - 65-80	—

Main structural elements

The manufactured machine has quite simple design, and consists of the following elements:

1. Base;
2. Tabletop for placing blanks;
3. Two side covers of the case;
4. One leading roller and two slaves;
5. Tape adjustment mechanism.

Manufacturing of a grinding machine

Side covers

Before cutting, you need to mark up. To do this, you need to determine the size and shape of the workpiece itself. Below is shown detailed drawing details.

An example of marking the side cover of the grinding machine is shown in the photo below.

For more convenient cutting of internal parts and critical elements, you can drill holes with an electric jigsaw and sawing machine. For accurate and high-quality work, it is better to use a substrate. Please note that the cutout for the movable roller is needed on only one workpiece.

The main parts of the part requiring holes are shown in the photo.

After, only on one of the blanks, we cut out a smaller hole for the bracket. It is better to work with a jigsaw, while it is better to fix the structure with clamps.

The second part of the cover is not needed yet, since the main work will be carried out with one part of the wall. After that, you can start gluing the base for the bearings. For gluing the squares, ordinary PVA glue, wood glue or any other glue intended for wood is used. The size of wooden squares is 5 * 5 centimeters.

After that, the glued elements must be fastened with clamps or left under pressure for a while. It is important to ensure reliable contact when gluing blanks.

It's time to cut the hole for the bearing. Best of all, a milling cutter will cope with this task. After cutting, excess elements can be removed with a knife or other cutting tool.

As a result, if all the work was done correctly, the following design will be obtained.

We press the bearings on both sides, as shown in the photographs. These bearings will be designed for the drive shaft.

After that, with the help of a hexagon, the fittings are installed in a pre-prepared hole.

As in the case of bearings, furniture fittings are installed on both sides.

The next step to do is to install the shelves. The largest shelf, consists of a board and has a size of 32.5 * 6.5 cm and has a thickness of 1 cm. Installed with four self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo.

The second shelf measures 22.8*6.5 cm, with the same thickness. Attaches with three screws.

And the last shelf has dimensions of 10.2 * 65 cm, 1 cm thick and is attached to two self-tapping screws.

After that, both blanks are finished, and now you can proceed to the next step - assembling the mechanism for adjusting the position of the sanding belt.

Assembling the Tape Adjustment Mechanism

We begin the assembly of the main moving element of a stationary grinding machine. First, you need to glue two bars together. Bigger timber 6.8 * 4 cm in size, the smaller one 3.2 * 3.8 cm in size. The smaller beam should be exactly in the center of the larger one.

While the movable element dries, you can start gluing the retainer. To do this, you need to glue two cubes 2 * 2 cm in size and 1.8 cm thick on both sides of the beam 7.8 * 2 cm. It should turn out as in the photo.

Next, we drill a hole on the side, but not through, we also install the fittings. A handle will be inserted into it to adjust the tape. After all the steps have been completed, the part is ready.

Then, you need to make a hole for the drive nut in the latch, this is done in two stages. First, includes drilling seat with a drill or a Forstner drill.

If all the steps are performed correctly, you will get the same blank as shown in the picture below.

Everything is ready, and you can start pressing the nut. It is important to install the nut evenly so that it "sits" in a special hole and is "flush". It should turn out like this:

The blanks are completed, you just need to place them on the wall of the future grinding machine. But before that, you need to drill a hole in the side. It will help to install the adjustment knob for the position of the sanding belt.

We install the latch, with a movable element, using two self-tapping screws. It is important that the moving part is placed on the correct side. The futorka should be directed towards the hole. Here is what should happen in the end.

Two blanks will be enough. Drilling in the middle through hole and insert a bolt into it. After that, we install the handles in the side sleeve of the movable element and in the drive nut of the latch. As a result, the following construction will turn out.

Production of rollers

Rollers are movable, and the most important element of the entire system. Therefore, it is important to make them as high quality as possible. As in the case of handles, we make them using a crown drill. It is necessary to cut out six parts of the driven rollers.

As well as other parts of a stationary grinder, they can be glued with PVA glue or wood glue. To compress the blanks when gluing, it is better to use screws and nuts with washers. The photo below shows how to do it.

After gluing, you can remove the screws and prepare the rollers for further work. In the driven rollers, you need to install two bearings, in the drive roller you need to install two drive nuts. The procedure was carried out before, so it makes no sense to describe it again. As a result, you should get the following result:

Everything is installed, which means that you can tighten one bolt with a nut on all rollers of the grinding machine. It is important to tighten the nuts so that the bearing has free play. Now you can proceed to the penultimate stage.

Installing rollers

First, you need to install the drive roller in the cover where the bearing is located. So, as shown in the photo.

The last shelf is attached on top and our machine takes on a similar shape. The time has come for the final stage.

The final stage

The first thing to do is to attach the second cover of the machine to the hinges.

Then put the base of the machine on the screws, for greater stability.

After that, the sanding belt is installed and fixed.

Then the tabletop is made. It is important that the tape has free play, and should not cling.

And at the end, a drill stand is installed.

Conclusion

Outcome

Our handmade grinder is ready! If you follow all the instructions described above, you will get a real friend and helper who will rightfully take his rightful place in the workshop.

Dimensions

Here is a table with overall dimensions our homemade tool:

The dimensions of the walls and adjacent elements:

Dimensions of bracket elements:

Table top dimensions: Vkontakte

Grinding equipment is used for finishing parts. The machine performs finishing technological operations in the manufacture of wooden and metal products. A significant advantage of such a device is the possibility of its self assembly. A home-made unit is somewhat inferior in performance to factory models, but it will cost much less.

The working principle and characteristics of the grinding machine

Grinders differ from each other in design and scope. general characteristics tool - a similar principle of operation. The working mechanism rotates and the abrasive material grinds the surface of the part.

When choosing finished equipment or making a machine with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the main characteristics of such equipment:

1. Power. When using the machine at home, a power of 400 watts is sufficient. To perform production tasks, high efficiency and productivity of the unit will be required - at least 1 kW.
2. The speed of rotation of the working mechanism. The grinding abrasive element performs up to 3000 revolutions per minute per minute. The higher the rotation speed, the better quality processing. Experts recommend using units with an indicator of at least 500.
3. processing area. This parameter is determined based on the scope. The larger the width of the drums or sanding belt, the larger the products will be sanded.
4. Device dimensions. Dimensions are an important parameter, which largely depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe workshop or workshop. At self-manufacturing the machine is designed so that after its installation there is enough space for placing tools, workpieces, consumables and other equipment.

Features of different grinding machines

Depending on the configuration of the abrasive unit, the following types of machines are distinguished.

tape device- grinder. The machine is equipped with an abrasive belt, which wears out over time and requires periodic replacement. Using the unit, you can remove a layer of rust from metal, correct the dimensions of the product in some planes, clean and shape wooden parts.

Positive aspects of tape machines:

• universality;
• small dimensions and light weight;
• the possibility of self-production;
• Adjustable belt length for sanding and polishing items of various sizes.

Advice. When equipping belt grinding equipment, it is better to choose graphite abrasives - they are the most wear-resistant.

drum machine works on the principle of a drill. The grinding part of the device rotates from the engine at a speed of about 2000 rpm. The main purpose is the calibration of flat long workpieces. A drum-type unit is more difficult to manufacture, but such a home-made wood grinding machine will allow you to process slats, shield surfaces made of MDF, chipboard, veneered material and wood.

disk device(dish machine). It is quite possible to assemble the unit yourself, as it has a simple device. Disc machines are characterized by the following features:

• compact dimensions and ease of use for domestic purposes;
• good performance with a powerful electric motor;
• the possibility of polishing workpieces of cone-shaped, spherical and cylindrical shape.

Combined grinding machine - a combination of the functions of flat and cylindrical grinding equipment. One device is equipped with a grinding wheel and an abrasive belt. This option is best suited for small workshops and garages, where the installation of two units at once is problematic.

Homemade belt sander

Accessories for belt type devices

Homemade grinding machine for metal or wood has the following design:

1. The bed is the base of the machine. The working base of the structure is usually made static - it is screwed to the floor. Sometimes the equipment is additionally equipped with wheels for ease of movement.
2. Working platform for the subsequent placement of the electric motor.
3. Electrical engine. As a rule, the drive is installed near the larger diameter drive roller.
4. Leading and driven tension roller. In self-manufacturing, you can use improvised materials made of metal or high-density wood. To prevent the tape from rolling off the shaft, the diameter of the central part of the rink should be 2 mm smaller than at the edge. To prevent slippage of the tape on the drums, it is desirable to wind a thin layer of rubber.
5. The belt tensioning mechanism consists of a lever and a clamping spring. The lever is fixed to the frame and the driven tension roller.

Important! For processing steel or wood, paper-based or fabric-based tapes are used. Tape width - 5-31 cm, length - from 11 cm, grain size from R-80.

Manufacturing technology of the belt assembly

Homemade belt grinders for wood or metal can be made from the following materials:

• electric motor with a shaft speed of about 1300-1600 rpm;
• steel pipes not less than 2 mm in thickness;
• corners with a section of 50 * 50 * 5, 25 * 20 * 1.5 - the number is determined by the dimensions of the equipment;
• magnetic stand for fixing metal blanks;
• bearing supports, ball screws;
• shafts for fastening the tape;
• rail guides.

Work sequence:

The described type of machine is more suitable for grinding flat metal workpieces.

Homemade drum sander

Drum-type equipment device

The drum grinder belongs to the class of calibration models. Main element devices - sanding drum giving smoothness to wooden surfaces.

Elements of the basic configuration:

• bed;
• engine;
• planer drum with emery tape;
• feed drum with conveyor belt;
• mechanism for adjusting the speed of the drum;
• stands for fixing the position of the grinding drum;
• protective cover;
• dust extractor.

Homemade wood grinder: drawing

Step-by-step instructions for creating a machine

Stage 1. Motor selection. Fits old engine washing machine. Remove the pulleys, belt and electrical part from the equipment. It is desirable to give preference to an asynchronous single-phase electric motor of 200-300 W, 1500-2000 rpm.

Stage 2. Drum making. Suitable for creating pvc pipe, wooden rings and other improvised items. drum set PVC is made as follows:

1. From plastic pipe cut a piece with a diameter of 10 cm desired length.
2. Prepare end caps from wood with holes in the center of 2 cm.
3. Fasten the end elements to the pipe with screws.
4. Pass a steel bar 15-20 mm thick through the hole.
5. Stick a rubber sheet on top of the pipe.
6. Secure with a stapler sandpaper on the drum.

Stage 3. Preparation of the desktop and bed. The body is made of wood:

1. “Cut out” the wooden canvas into side panels (2 pcs.), spacer, details of the worktop (base and movable component).
2. Assemble and strengthen the structure with a cross member. The internal spacer will additionally act as a support for the adjustment screw.
3. To be able to control the course of the working surface, its movable element is fixed with a piano loop to the base. An adjusting screw is installed on the feed side of the workpiece.

Stage 4. The assembly is performed in the following sequence:

Stage 5. Fixing the protective cover and commissioning.

DIY grinding tools

In addition to overall machines, small practical devices for polishing metal products or grinding some parts can also come in handy in everyday life. Many of them are quite possible to do with your own hands.

Mini grinder and "polishing" for metal

A mini-grinder is useful for home craftsmen and lovers of alterations - the device is used for high-quality cleaning of surfaces before soldering. Required Parts can be taken from an old Soviet tape recorder.

Glue fine-grained sandpaper onto a wooden round plate. This will be the working part of the grinder. To start the machine, you will need a small motor with a shaft diameter of 1.5 mm and a button. Solder the start button to the electric motor.

A 7 V AC adapter is suitable for power supply. One contact of the adapter is soldered to the switch leg, and the second to the electric motor. Fill the soldering points with hot glue. After it dries, wrap the body with heat shrink or electrical tape. Finishing stage- fixation of the working grinding element.

Homemade disc grinder

A disc grinder of low power is useful for turning small-sized wooden products. For the machine shown in the photo, a 90 W three-phase transformer was used, launched through a capacitor. An engine with a speed of 2750 per minute is connected in a triangle with a starting capacitor and reverse. Connections are soldered and hidden in heat shrink.

The base is fixed on four steel rods - if necessary, quickly installed and removed. A mandrel for M14 is attached to the shaft, it is possible to install different nozzles from a grinder.

Safety precautions when working on homemade grinding equipment

When performing work on the machine, it is worth adhering to a number of rules that will help protect yourself and others from possible injuries:

1. Do not touch work surfaces and moving parts with your hands.
2. Protective goggles must be worn during operation to prevent particles of hot scale and abrasive from getting into the eyes.
3. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fastening of the shafts, tape and disk.
4. It is important to control and check the integrity of the wire braid. If the slightest malfunction is detected, work must be suspended.
5. A protective cover must be used. The element somewhat narrows the view, but greatly increases the level of security.

Homemade vertical grinder: video

Grinder (English) literally - a crusher. Meat grinder is a meat grinder, rock (stone) grinder is a stone crusher; stick (wood) grinder garden crusher branches and twigs into chips. But there is also a completely unambiguous meaning of the word grinder: in mechanical engineering and metalworking, this is a grinding machine. A useful household item. For example, it is impossible to guide a dull meat grinder knife on a whetstone by hand. On a manual knife sharpener - somehow possible, with a solid working skill. And on the grinder - no problem. The same - if you need to grind a part of a complex shape without violating its profile. Or just sharpen scissors or a professional knife. different kind cutters for wood and metal are best edited on a grinder too. It is quite possible to design and assemble a grinder with your own hands, without having sophisticated equipment and skills to work on it. In terms of money, this will mean savings from 50-90 thousand rubles. up to 3-6 thousand USD.

To make a grinder yourself, you will need to order a maximum of 4-5 turned parts, and it is often possible to do without turning from outside at all. For example, how to make the simplest grinder literally from trash, see the video below:

Video: do-it-yourself tape grinder from trash

Or another option, how to make the grinder stronger and more resilient from scrap metal:

Video: scrap metal grinder

Disk or tape? And drive

Almost more varieties of grinding machines are used in industry than lathes. Emery known to all craftsmen - a motor with a pair of grinding wheels (or one circle) - this is also a grinder. For yourself at home, it makes sense to make either a disc end (plate) or a belt grinder. In the first, the abrasive is applied to a rotating HDD; in the second - on an elastic tape running around a system of pulleys and rollers. Disc is more suitable for grinding simple wooden parts and coarse or medium purity - metal. On a belt grinder, it is also possible to produce precise and clean finishing of profiled parts of complex shape, incl. large, see below.

A disc grinder is very simply obtained from the same emery or a motor of suitable power, see below. It is necessary to order an adapter from the motor shaft for the shank of a cup-shaped grinding wheel on a metal base. or under chuck, then on the same motor it will be possible to build a mini lathe, see fig.:

A worn-out “plate” is suitable: a disc made of thin (4-6 mm) fibrous plastic is glued onto the edge of its side, and an abrasive is placed on it. How to make an end grinder, see next. video clip.

Video: homemade end grinder

The difference between a disc grinder and a belt grinder is not only in the possibilities of use. If you take ordinary home crafts, then a drive power of 250-300 W on the shaft is enough for a disk grinder. For small wooden parts - and 150-170 watts. This is a motor from an old washing machine, a straight (ordinary) drill or a screwdriver. But for a belt grinder, you need an engine from 450-500 W: three-phase with batteries of starting and operating capacitors. If it is supposed to process a large size, then the motor power is from 1-1.2 kW. Moreover, capacitor banks for both will cost a little less than the engine itself.

Note: a 100-200 W drive uses a mini belt grinder (see below) for fine dressing of knives, grinding / polishing jewelry, etc.

A drill or screwdriver as a grinder drive is also convenient in that it allows you to quickly change the speed of the abrasive (see below) with a standard speed controller. It is only necessary, firstly, to make a holder for the drill, rigidly fixing the tool. Secondly, an elastic adapter from the drill to the disc shank, because it is difficult to achieve their precise centering without special equipment, and the runout will negate the accuracy of processing and can damage the tool-drive.

Drawings of the drill holder for using it as a drive for a home metal-cutting machine are given on the left in the figure:

Since the impact and irregular alternating loads on the drive in the grinder are an order of magnitude lower than, say, in a lathe, it is possible to make a drill holder for it from hard wood, plywood, chipboard, MDF, on the right in Fig. The diameter of the mounting (large) hole is along the neck of the drill. It is highly desirable to use a drill without an impact mechanism and with a steel shell on the neck (for the installation of the front handle).

Coupling

For the adapter, you will need a piece of steel bar (not necessarily turned) of the same diameter as the shank of the grinder drive shaft, and a piece of reinforced PVC hose (garden irrigation) with a gap so that it is tightly pulled over the bar and shank. The length of the “free” hose (between the ends of the rod and the shank in it) is 3-5 cm. The length of the protruding part of the rod should be sufficient for a reliable clamp in the drill chuck. After assembling the coupling in place, the hose on the shank and rod is tightly tightened with clamps; can be wire. Such a coupling completely parries the misalignment of the drive and the driven shaft up to 1-1.5 mm.

Ribbon is still better.

A belt grinder allows you to do everything that a disc grinder does, and more. Therefore, further we will focus on how to make a belt sander with our own hands. Amateurs, focusing on industrial designs, sometimes make grinders very intricate, see fig.:

And this is justified: the design and kinematics of the belt grinder are very flexible, which makes it possible to successfully use improvised materials and old scrap metal. You just need to follow 3 principles:

1. Do not do as in the second photo from the left: the tape with the abrasive side should only touch the workpiece. Otherwise, the abrasive will eat both the bypass rollers and itself. The accuracy and cleanliness of processing during one working operation will be unpredictable;
2. The design of the machine must ensure uniform belt tension, regardless of the nature of the operation being performed;
3. The speed of the belt movement must correspond to the nature of the operation being performed.

Kinematics and design

As mentioned above, there are many designs of grinders. Thinking about what and how to build a grinder for yourself, it is better to focus on industrial designs designed for fully mechanized precision and clean grinding of large-sized profiled parts: since the propeller blade of an aircraft or wind turbine “skins” as it should, then it will cope with any other work.

Kinematic schemes of grinders for the specified purpose are given in Fig.:

Basic kinematic diagrams of belt grinders (grinders)

Pos. A - the most complex and perfect, with three rocker arms. If the length of the tensioning roller rocker is approx. 2 times less than the working one, then by adjusting the tension of the springs, it is possible to achieve a uniform tension of the tape when the working rocker moves 20-30 degrees up and down. By tilting the bypass rocker, firstly, the machine is reconfigured for tapes of different lengths. Secondly, in the same way, you can quickly change the belt tension for different operations. The working branch of the tape can be any, except for the one running from the drive pulley to the tension roller, i.e. a grinder with 3 rocker arms is both horizontal and vertical at the same time.

A scheme with a coaxially swinging rocker (pos. 2) is simpler, cheaper and not inferior in processing accuracy to the previous one, if the length of the rocker between the axes is at least 3 diameters of the workpiece. In order to knock down the profile by grinding, the course of the rocker arm is limited by stops within 10 degrees up and down. The clamping of the tape to the part is most often gravitational, under the weight of the rocker with a bypass pulley. It is possible to quickly change the tension of the tape within certain limits by pulling the rocker up with a weak adjustable spring, which partly compensates for its severity. The grinder of this scheme can work as a grinder for small parts from a sliding table. In this case, the rocker arm is rigidly fixed horizontally, and the running surface of the tape will be a bypass pulley. According to the scheme with a coaxial rocker arm, for example, a fairly popular BTS50 grinder was made. The disadvantages of the scheme are, firstly, the technologically complex rocker arm hinge coaxial with the drive shaft. Secondly, the need for an elastic band: if you make the bypass pulley sliding spring-loaded, the machining accuracy drops. This disadvantage when processing small parts is completely eliminated by an additional tension roller, see below.

A scheme with one misaligned rocker arm in industry is used quite rarely, because. in principle, it does not allow to achieve a uniform tension of the tape. However, it gives an accuracy that is quite sufficient at home and allows you to build a very good simple grinder.

What's good for what

Now let's see what is possible to "squeeze" out of this or that scheme from the point of view of an amateur master. And then we’ll try to figure out how to make a belt for the grinder ourselves and do without custom-made turned parts.

3 rockers

Competent amateurs build their grinders exactly according to the scheme with 3 rocker arms, on the left in fig. below. Far from all propeller blades are ground, but in this case another advantage of this scheme operates: if the grinder is used as a vertical one, then the working branch of the tape is elastic. This allows a skilled craftsman, for example, to guide cutting edges and blades with literally micron precision.

In industrial grinders for home use, the 3-rocker pattern is also widely used (in the center) for the same reasons. Repetition of them independently in most cases is quite possible. For example, drawings of the popular KMG grinder abroad can be downloaded.

The dimensions, however, are inch - an American typewriter. For the drive, in any case, it is possible to use an angle grinder drill (on the right in the figure, it is quite suitable in terms of power) with homemade pulley and rollers, see below.

Note: if you are making a stationary drive, try to get a 2-3 speed asynchronous motor from a worthless washer with a horizontal tank. Its advantage is low turnover. This makes it possible to make the drive pulley large diameter and thereby prevent belt slippage. A slippage of the tape in the work is almost certainly a damaged part. Most washing machines with 2-3 speed 220 V asynchronous motors are Spanish. Shaft power - 600-1000 watts. If you come across one, do not forget about the standard phase-shifting capacitor bank.

Coaxial rocker

In its pure form, grinders with a coaxial rocker are not made by amateurs. The coaxial hinge is a complicated thing, you can’t make an elastic band yourself, and a purchased one is expensive. Grinders with a coaxial rocker at home are most often used in the variant for fine precision work from the table, i.e. with a rigidly fixed horizontal beam. But then the need for a yoke as such disappears.

An example is a mini grinder, the drawings of which are given in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, an overhead bed for the tape (pos. 7), which greatly expands the possibilities of use. For example, a planer iron is straightened on this grinder with an angle stop literally by itself. In this case, the grinder works, so to speak, like a self-propelled donkey (emery bar). After removing the bed, we get a grinder with an elastic band for precise grinding / polishing of rounded small parts. Secondly, the tension shaft (pos. 12). Clamping it with a groove with nuts, we get a relatively fixed tension of the tape for working with the bed. And having released the nuts, we put the grinder into the mode of gravitational tension of the tape for fine work. The drive is not necessarily through a pulley (pos. 11). Can be screwed directly behind the drive shaft shank (pos. 16) from the drill through the adapter, see above.

A specialized tool grinder (for example, for aiming and dressing turning tools) generally loses any semblance of the original scheme. A high-speed motor is taken for it (a power of 200-300 W is enough). The drive pulley, respectively, of small diameter. The bypass pulley, on the contrary, is made larger and heavier, for inertia. All this together allows you to reduce the runout of the tape. The tension roller for the same purpose, plus for greater uniformity of the tape tension, is taken away and spring-loaded with a long, not very strong spring. How to make a cutter grinder, see the video below.

Video: cutter grinder

One rocker

In amateur practice, grinders with misaligned rocker are good because they do not need precise details at all. For example, hinges can be made from card loops. At the same time, the accuracy of processing remains sufficient for ordinary amateur requests.

The original scheme in this case is also modified: the rocker is rotated 90 degrees, carried up and spring-loaded, on the left in Fig. It turns out a simple vertical grinder. And, importantly, it works without problems with a home-made inextensible tape. Both tension spring (in the center) and compression spring can provide belt tension. Its strength is not important, as long as the tape does not bend excessively during operation. No adjustments are required during use.

Consumables and parts

The only one consumable for a belt grinder - tape (not including grease for bearings and joints. The tape can be ordered in the desired length (see at the end), but you can also make it yourself from sandpaper on a textile base. Highly desirable - flexible, unimpregnated. In general, the procedure for making a tape for a grinder with your own hands is as follows:

• We cut off the workpiece - a strip of the desired length and width.
• We prepare a mandrel (not necessarily round) with a length along the generatrix slightly less than the length of the tape.
• We circle the mandrel with the workpiece inside out.
• We bring the ends of the workpiece exactly end-to-end and securely fasten.
• We put a piece of glue stick for a hot glue gun on the joint.
• We heat with a building hair dryer until the glue melts.
• We impose a patch of thin fabric on the joint.
• We press something hard through the Teflon film until the glue hardens.

There are three significant points here. The first is to use a rough PET film with a thickness of 25-50 microns (sold) instead of fabric on the patch. It is very durable, but try running your finger over a PET bottle. Not very slippery? A rough PET film under tension cannot be stretched over polished metal. And instead of a patch, it is better to seal the wrong side of the tape with a continuous strip of PET film with an overlap of 2-3 cm. The beating of the tape will be no more than 0.05-0.1 mm. This is less than from the thinnest calico and even less than the error in the thickness of the skin-blank.

The second - fill the finished tape into the machine and grind something obscene with it without strong pressure. The hem on the seam will come together, and the tape will become no worse than the branded one.

But most importantly - in terms of elasticity best glue for gluing the grinder tape is not expensive and difficult to use thermal or mounting, but ordinary PVA. If the tape is pasted over with a lining along the entire length of the inside, then its strength for PVA is more than enough. How to glue a tape for a PVA grinder, see the video

Video: gluing the grinder tape with PVA glue

Pulley

Generating ( side surface section) of the grinder drive pulley must be straight. If you use a pulley-barrel, then the tape will bend like a trough along its entire length. The rollers do not allow it to slip, see below, but the pulley generatrix must be straight.

A pulley for a grinder that is not designed for particularly precise work, firstly, does not have to be turned. In the scheme with 3 rocker arms, the beating of the tape from its misalignment will go out on the rollers before it reaches the working branch. In a simple vertical grinder, the belt runout will be sufficiently damped by the tension spring. Therefore, it is quite possible to make a pulley for a grinder without a machine, see video:

Video: drive wheel on a grinder without a lathe

The second is that the pulley, rollers and, in general, all the details of a home grinder can be made from plywood. In production, this is certainly not an option, even if the plywood grinder is offered for free with an additional payment: the grinder needs a salary, and the wooden grinder in the workshop will completely wear out before it pays for itself. But you won’t drive the grinder at home day after day in 3 shifts. And no tape slips along the plywood pulley. Incl. homemade. So you can safely make a grinder pulley out of plywood:

Video: plywood grinder pulley

It is much more important to correctly calculate the diameter of the pulley according to the speed of the motor and the required speed of the belt. Too slow running belt will tear the processed material; too fast - it will be erased by itself, without really processing anything. In which case, what tape speed is needed is a special conversation, and a very difficult one. In general, the finer the abrasive and the harder the material to be processed, the faster the belt should move. How the speed of the belt depends on the diameter of the pulley and the speed of the motor, see the figure:

Fortunately, for most abrasive-material pairs, the allowable limits for belt speed are quite wide, so choosing a grinder pulley can be easier:

Video: which wheel is needed for a belt grinder

Rollers

The rollers of the grinder, oddly enough at first glance, are its most important details. It is the rollers that keep the tape from slipping and ensure its uniform tension across the width. Moreover, there can be only one video in kinematics, see, for example, the video above about the cutter grinder. Only barrel rollers will cope with this task, see below. But the “trough” of the tape after any roller should straighten out before it reaches the working area.

Rollers with flanges (sides, edges) will not hold the tape. The point here is not only and not so much with the misalignment of the axes of the rollers: the grinder belt, unlike the drive belt, must withstand, without slipping, the loads from the workpieces. If you make rollers with flanges, then, just touching something to the tape, it will crawl onto the flange. In the grinder, you need to use Type 3 barrel rollers (highlighted in red on the left in the figure).

The dimensions of Type 3 rollers are also given there. It is advisable to take the diameter of the rollers no more than 0.5 of the width of the tape (so that the “trough” does not go far), but not less than 20 mm of steel turned and not less than 35-40 mm of plywood. The tension roller (the probability of the tape slipping from it is greatest), if the working branch of the tape does not leave it, can be 0.7-1.2 in diameter of its width. Plywood rollers are made in the form of a thick shell into which the bearing is pressed; then the roller is mounted on the axle (in the center in the figure) and finished clean, see e.g. track. video:

Video: barrel roller for grinder

Not every turner can machine a profile barrel roller exactly according to GOST. Meanwhile, there is a way to make rollers for the grinder without significant difficulties. The same garden reinforced PVC hose will help out, on the right in fig. previously. On the roller blank with a straight generatrix, its segment is pulled tightly and cut off with a margin along the edges to the thickness of the hose wall. It turns out a roller with a complex generatrix profile, which holds the tape even better and gives it a smaller “trough”. Don't believe? Try to get into the graveyard of planes or missiles and dig into them. You will find rollers with exactly the same generatrix profile. It's just that the mass production of rollers of a complex profile is much more expensive than Type 3 barrels.

And another option

All critical parts of the grinder - one-piece belt, non-slip coated pulleys, rollers - can be purchased separately. They will cost not so cheap, but still not in thousands of foreign and not in dozens of native "leather jackets". The remaining parts of the grinder, either flat or from professional pipes, are made using a conventional bench drill or drill. Here is where you can order grinder parts:

• //www.cora.ru/products.asp?id=4091 - tape. Do lengths and widths at the request of the customer. Advise on abrasives and processing modes. The prices are acceptable. Delivery time - questions to Ruspost.
• //www.equipment.rilkom.ru/01kmpt.htm - spare parts (accessories) for grinding machines. There is everything, the prices are divine. Delivery - see prev.
• //www.ridgid.spb.ru/goodscat/good/listAll/104434/ - the same, but foreign-made. Prices are higher, delivery is the same.
• //www.pk-m.ru/kolesa_i_roliki/privodnye_kolesa/ - drive wheels. You can find suitable for the grinder.
• //dyplex.by.ru/bader.html, //www.syndic.ru/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=36 – spare parts for grinders. Ribbons are not made to order - choose from the catalog. Rollers without axles; axles are sold separately. The quality is impeccable, but everything is very expensive. Sending - within 2 weeks to the border. Then - their customs, our customs, Ruspost. Total ok. 2 months It may not reach if some local bureaucrat considers the goods to be sanctions. In this case, there are no problems with the return of the payment due to the complete absence of real opportunities for an ordinary citizen to receive one.
(2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)