The milling table significantly increases the productivity and efficiency of working with a manual router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home milling machine. It is much more economical to make a table with your own hands. It will not take much time and will require very little financial outlay. Any home master can cope with such a task if desired.
The question is how to make milling table with their own hands, many home craftsmen ask. This is understandable: equipment on which the router is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a specially equipped desktop, in many cases is much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual milling cutter, the workpiece is fixed on regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow maintaining the accuracy of processing.
By using a router table when processing wood products, you can achieve results that allow you to get professional routers. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed qualitatively: cutting out figured holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling of edges.
With device milling table factory production can be seen in the video below. We will try to make it no worse, but in some ways even better and, which is very important, cheaper.
The milling table will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With the help of such a table, you can make grooves and slots, process elements of tongue and groove joints, chamfering and creating decorative profiles.
The milling table, the manufacture of which does not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies engaged in the manufacture of precisely milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. A home-made table, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior to models produced under production conditions in terms of its functionality, but it will cost much less.
Milling table drawings: option number 1
Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main units and their dimensions.
Dimensions of parts Table in section Two-layer table cover Cut-out in the first layer of the table Marking the cut-out of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cut-out according to the marking of the second layer Rip fence drawing End plate of the fence Dust extraction nozzle Plexiglas guard Comb clamp and locking block
Milling table design
If desired, you can make a milling table from an ordinary workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the table for it must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, so there must be enough free space under it.
To attach the router to the tabletop, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity. Can be used to make such a plate a metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood. On the soles of most models of routers there are already threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads into them, or use special clamps.
Mounting plate should be located on the same level with the countertop, for this, a selection of the appropriate sizes is made in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for connecting it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others for attaching it to the router sole. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be countersunk.
To make your turn on homemade milling machine more convenient, on the tabletop you can place a regular button, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device even safer to use. To increase the convenience of your home machine, you can fix a long metal ruler on the table surface.
Before you start building milling table for your workshop, you need to determine the place where it will be located, as well as decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate-type machine (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serve as its extension), compact desktop machine, stand-alone stationary equipment.
Opt for compact benchtop equipment for woodworking and other materials if you access it infrequently or often use it outside your workshop. Such an installation takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.
If the area of your workshop allows, then it is better to make a stationary milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be put on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.
A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but cheap and cheerful.
The simplest milling table can be made very quickly. To make a structure that is easily located on a regular desktop, you will need a chipboard sheet on which the guide element is fixed. As such a guide (and at the same time a stop), an ordinary board of small thickness is suitable, which is attached to the table top with bolted connections. If necessary, a second such board can be attached in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.
In a sheet of chipboard, it is required to make a hole to accommodate the router, which will be fixed on the countertop with two clamps. After that, your compact router table with rail can be considered ready.
Manufacturing of the bed and countertop
The bed of a home-made milling machine must have high stability and reliability, since it is on it that the main loads will fall. Structurally, it is a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame of the frame, metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood connected by welding can be used. It is advisable to prepare first simple drawing. It is necessary to indicate on it all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.
The lower part of the bed from the side of its front part must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the operator of the milling machine. If you are going to process door linings and facade ends for them on your home-made machine, then the dimensions of the bed can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).
One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the convenience of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height of equipment for which people work while standing is 850–900 mm. It is desirable to make the lower parts of the bed supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table.
Make inexpensive, but very reliable work surface for a homemade milling device, you can use it from the countertop of an old kitchen table. These tables are usually made from chipboard sheet 26 or 36 mm thick, covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens the vibrations that occur during the operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for the machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) plates with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.
Milling table drawings: option number 2
Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). The list of parts with dimensions and recommended material of manufacture is presented in the table.
Table of table parts and their dimensions Frame Top corner of the frame Bottom corner of the frame Drawer slide rail Layout of the rails Table top Stop drawing Large drawer Small drawer Small drawer front Table side panels
How to make a mounting plate
Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine has a fairly large thickness, the mounting plate for mounting the router should have a minimum thickness. This will maximize takeoff. cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate with a minimum thickness should be characterized by high strength and rigidity.
The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in its strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. According to a previously prepared drawing, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the sole of the router.
The connection of the plate with the sole of the milling cutter and the table itself, as mentioned above, is provided by the holes made in it and the mating threaded holes in the sole of the milling cutter. Holes for fixing the plate to the table surface are made at its four corners.
The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate with the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the sole of the tool. In order not to be mistaken in the manufacture of the plate, it is necessary to first prepare its drawing, on which it is necessary to indicate dimensions this part, the diameters and the location of all the holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the surface of the table using clamps.
Videos from detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most masters, such a table will be unnecessarily complicated, but perhaps someone will draw useful ideas when building your own equipment.
Milling table assembly
The milling table begins to be assembled by attaching the table top to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the countertop where it should be placed according to the drawing, its outline is drawn with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the indicated contour, for which a hand mill with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate lies in it at the same level with the surface of the countertop.
It will not work to make a recess with right angles with a round cutter, therefore, on the plate itself, the corners must also be rounded with a file. After fixing in the tabletop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router sole. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the countertop itself.
When the equipment requirements are low and there is no desire to get involved with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.
To perform such an operation, you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high accuracy. WITH reverse side worktops, it is also necessary to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos posted in this article.
The final step in assembling a homemade milling table is to connect all of its structural elements. First, a milling cutter is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the countertop with countersunk screws, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations, the tabletop itself is securely fixed to the frame.
Milling table drawings: option number 3
A compact desktop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.
computer model Appearance assembled Back view Front view Cutter raised, doors moved apart Cutter lowered, doors moved apart Hand router Hose from a vacuum cleaner for removing dust and chips Mounting the router and removing chips Adjusting the rise of the cutter Cutter is raised by turning the screw Adjusting the rise of the cutter router Glass precisely fitted to the worktop Router screwed to the base plate
Making the top clamp
To make a home-made machine safer in operation and ensure the convenience of processing dimensional workpieces on it, you can equip such equipment top clamp. To create this fixture, made on the basis of a roller, it is necessary to prepare a drawing.
A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as a roller for the pressure device. Mount such a roller on a holding device that allows you to fix it at any distance from the table top. With the help of this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the desktop.
In the video below, a man shows his homemade router table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.
Drive for homemade milling machine
In order for a homemade milling machine to be different high performance and functionality, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine for shallow woodworking, a 500W electric motor will suffice. However, equipment with a low power drive will often shut down, which will negate all the savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.
The best choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 watts. Such an electric motor with a power ranging from 1 to 2 kW will allow you to use your own homemade device like a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on such a machine. To equip the drive of the machine, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as hand tools(drills, grinders, manual milling cutters).
You should pay attention not only to the power, but also to the speed of the electric motor. The higher this indicator, the better the quality of the cut will be. Electric motors, as you know, can be powered by an electrical network with a voltage of 220 and 380 V. There will be no problems with connecting the first, but three-phase asynchronous motors will have to be powered using a special star-delta circuit. Connecting according to this scheme will make it possible to use the electric motor on its maximum power and give it a smooth start. And if you directly connect such an electric motor to a 220 V network, then you will lose 30–50% of its power.
Milling table drawings: option No. 4
Analysis of another design of a do-it-yourself milling table, supplemented by a video from the author.
The table top is folded down The elevator is organized with a jack The table top, top view Movable stop carriage Parallel stop with wings Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner (dust and chips removal) Steel plate for fastening the router Attaching the sole of the router to the plate The principle of operation of the elevator
Safety when working on a homemade milling table
When making a homemade milling machine, you should ensure the safety of working on it. First of all, you need to equip the working tool itself protective screen. How such screens are arranged is illustrated by photos and drawings. professional equipment. An obligatory element of your homemade equipment should be an emergency stop button, the so-called fungus. It should be placed in an easily accessible place, and the start button should be fixed in a place where it will not be accidentally pressed.
Make sure that the processing area is well lit, as this is the most dangerous place in any equipment. If in the course of work you need to frequently change the overhang of the cutter, it is worth making a manual or automatic device lifting-lowering of the tool (elevator). Such an elevator will allow you to more efficiently use your homemade milling equipment and make the work on it comfortable and safe. Various designs such lifts can also be found online.
If desired and necessary, you can constantly upgrade your homemade equipment and turn it over time into a full-fledged coordinate machine with a rotary desktop.
The masters of the past produced decorative processing wood by hand. We admire their creations to this day. But learn fine work woodworking took years, and not every apprentice managed to create a masterpiece for the title of master. And to raise money for tools and accessories for the highest craftsmanship. What is relevant today: sets of shaped planers, pieces of iron for them and cutters for manual finishing of the product will cost more than a good manual wood milling machine. Which will also reduce the learning process and increase labor productivity at times. If you make a milling table for it with your own hands, then the quality of the products will become much more stable. True, the functionality of the router will be reduced (the number of types of work operations), but the remaining sections will not be so difficult to finish with the same router without a table or even manually, without the risk of “screwing up” the entire workpiece. This material will be about the essential points of self-manufacturing of a milling table.
Note: Masterpiece was originally a technical term for trial work that an apprentice who claims to be a master must do on his own. Since in the old workshops the corporate spirit and nepotism dominated everything and everything, a new apprentice, in order to break into the masters, had to make a thing really outstanding, even exceptional. Hence the use of the word "masterpiece" for a creation created on a creative take-off.
Table or machine?
However, a hand router tool is not cheap. There seems to be no fundamental difference in the design of it and the milling head of a vertical milling machine. A suitable motor for a homemade milling machine in terms of power and speed, perhaps, is waiting in the pantry for some use. So what is better to do for milling woodwork: the entire machine from improvised materials, or buy a manual router and a table for it?
Note: factory-made tables for manual milling machines are sold in the same way as drill stands that turn them into a drill or lathe.
It's about vibrations. The trembling of the machine with the workpiece is the worst enemy of material cutting. In milling work, the influence of vibration on the quality of processing is especially strong. If a drill or cutter (except for a chisel in a slotting machine) bites into the workpiece once and then moves more or less smoothly in the material, then the cutter hits the workpiece at least twice at each revolution. Shape cutters with cutting edges curvilinear in 3 planes reduce this disadvantage, but do not eliminate it completely - a cutter that does not hit the workpiece will not cut anything from it.
A homemade milling machine with a motor made of trash is shaking in general as it can. Vibration dampening measures available in the home workshop provide a quality of work more suitable for simple carpentry work. In manual milling machines for wood, vibration damping is already provided constructively. Installing the router in the table further reduces the “shaking”, and the entire unit becomes suitable for fairly thin carpentry work, incl. above the facade parts of furniture, decorative details and other critical parts. So there is still a fundamental difference between a home-made milling machine and a table to an existing manual milling cutter.
How the milling table works
The main differences between a milling table with a finished machine and a homemade machine for the same purpose are as follows:
- The table is made according to the design scheme of a vertical milling machine with a lower drive, while a home-made machine can be both vertical and horizontal. However, the latter at home does not give any tangible advantages over the vertical one.
- The milling table is quite simply equipped with a lift with its own hands - a device for smooth and, possibly, operational adjustment of the cutter protrusion above the desktop.
- The workpiece stop system of the milling table can be improved in comparison with a home-made machine to improve the accuracy and cleanliness of processing.
- The tabletop milling machine is reversibly modified (see below) so that it can be removed for manual operation.
How a simple milling table for woodworking is arranged is shown in fig. Cabinet (bed) - any sufficiently strong and stable design, tk. the main damping is carried out, except with the router itself, by the base plate. Therefore, the pedestal in this case is actually not a frame, because. is just a support structure.
On a simple table, it is difficult to achieve high-quality processing of workpieces with a large ratio of width to height. A completely flat board on an exactly the same flat table suddenly jerks for no reason, the cut turns out to be uneven, or even the workpiece is bitten by a cutter. The reason is longitudinal, i.e. propagating horizontally, elastic waves in the workpiece material. The comb vertical stop (see below) does not have time to absorb them, antinodes (foci) of vibrations appear on the workpiece, spoiling the whole thing.
The horizontal stop is intended for such a situation, see next. rice. It is always performed comb, because. is predominantly a vibration absorber. For the same purpose, a second vertical comb stop is added.
On fig. shows a table with 2-sided stops designed to feed the workpiece back and forth, see below. TO homemade table for ordinary carpentry work, it is better to make one-sided stops (see below): they are technologically simpler and can be made from ordinary solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, walnut). In any case, the most important structural components of a homemade milling table are:
- Base (desktop) and mounting (mounting) plates;
- Stops - comb and deaf (simple);
- Elevator milling machine.
Plates
The base and mounting plates of the milling table are structurally identical to those of the same machine. An example of the construction of a milling table base plate made of 2 layers of 19 mm plywood is shown in the figure:
Its main drawback is its high cost: birch plywood (bakelite is even better) grade is not lower than Ib. Meanwhile, having spent a little more time and labor on plywood plywood "pie", it, and even better quality, can be made, as for a milling machine, from cheap 4 mm construction (grade II) or packaging (non-grade) plywood. At the same time, the necessary wear resistance and strength are provided by impregnation of the sheet before cutting with a water-polymer emulsion (a full-fledged substitute is the construction primer ECO Soil), and vibration-absorbing properties are provided by layers of PVA glue. The dried mounting (reinforced) PVA gives a viscous elastic film that perfectly dampens vibrations, but even without that, the height space in which the elastic wave can gain strength is reduced by five times.
Note: plywood is glued from veneer sheets with cheap casein or similar synthetic glue, which has vibration damping properties only to a small extent (its layer is hard and brittle). PVA glued plywood would be completely unprofitable.
The installation unit with increased vibration damping for the milling table is shown in fig. and exactly the same as for a milling machine ().
And the procedure for manufacturing the base plate is the same: the plywood sheet is impregnated 2-3 times on each side, then cut (immediately with cutouts for the router). It is better to make a car window round or with rounded corners. The package is glued according to the instructions for the glue and dried for at least 2 days under a dispersed oppression of approx. 100 kg/sq. m plate; very good weight - stacks of books and/or magazine binders.
Plate for the milling cutter and its refinement
The mounting (mounting) plate of the router is made of fibrous-layered vibration-absorbing thermosetting plastic: textolite, fiberglass. Somewhat worse are vibration-absorbing massive thermoplastic materials - hardboard, etc. Thermoplastic plastic from heating during operation can lead and the machine will lose accuracy. Massive (ebonite, bakelite) or layered thermosetting plastics (getinaks) are unsuitable - they delaminate and crack very quickly from vibrations and heating.
How the machine is being finalized for installation in the milling table is shown in the figure:
The lock of the standard sliding desktop (shown by the arrow on the left in the figure) is released (pressed out). The staff table is then removed and placed on the compression springs (center) with a total force of approx. 1.5 machine weight. The sole of the regular table (shown by the arrow in the center) is removed, and an installation plate is attached instead of it (on the right in the figure). Restoring a machine for manual use is done in reverse order.
Stops
Since a home-made milling table is able to provide better accuracy and cleanliness than the same machine, it is advisable to modify the stop system for it. Stops, as in the machine or in fig. above with image simple table, suitable for the manufacture of non-facade (decorative) parts, tk. a straight L-shaped blind stop still strongly gives vibrations back to the workpiece and makes it difficult to feed it (a workpiece made from ordinary commercial wood can jam).
Drawings of oblique comb and deaf vertical stops for a home-made milling table for wood are shown in fig. Structurally, the comb stop for the table is somewhat different from that for the machine (all teeth are the same), because. the whole unit is shaking not so much. Maple is one of the best vibration absorbers, but seasoned, without defects, knots, streaks and slant, industrial maple wood is an expensive and scarce material. It will be completely replaced by oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut.
Note: an even better vibration damper is elm wood. But the defect-free seasoned business elm in wide sale practically absent, because all goes to blocks for tailoring expensive leather shoes and critical parts of cars.
Comb and blind stops are installed in pairs (the blind one is the first along the workpiece), see the inset in the center in fig. They are fixed with a locking block (stopper), highlighted in red in fig. on right. However, putting a comb with a “grouse” before the cutter along the workpiece when it is fed, as shown in the same place, is still wrong: the main “shaking” occurs behind the cutter. But putting 2 pairs of comb-grouse, before and after the cutter, is not forbidden and is useful for processing accuracy.
Push back and forth
Workpieces made of homogeneous materials of high quality (MDF, postforming for kitchen worktops, selected small-layer wood) are often milled in a round-trip way: the part is pushed onto the cutter and immediately, without turning off the cutter, is pulled back. The combination of up and down milling in one pass (see the article about the milling machine) gives the cleanest surface.
Note: parts milled back and forth are quite suitable for veneering and lamination.
However, it is impossible to put a pair of oblique combs turned in opposite directions for milling back and forth: the workpiece will jam on the incoming comb. For back and forth milling, the workpiece is supported by pairs of vertical and horizontal straight combs (see figure above): their combs (and grooves between them) are perpendicular to the working surface, and the working parts of the combs are trapezoidal in plan with bevels of 60 degrees from the perpendicular (30 degrees from the sole of the comb). Unfortunately, the choice of materials for self-production of straight 2-sided combs is limited: defect-free seasoned industrial maple, elm, teak.
Note: on sale there are straight combs for wood routers, cast from polypropylene. I don't know how it works, I haven't tried it.
Elevator
Most simple designs elevators for a milling table for wood - rigid cam (pos. A in the figure) and wedge (pos. B).
Their common advantage is the ability to make base plate folding for convenience of access to a milling cutter. But a common huge drawback is instability, the machine slides down from vibration. In fact, after 1.5-2 m of cut, the elevator has to be reinstalled. The cam lift, in addition, is not much better in terms of ease of use than the lift of a homemade milling machine adjustable with rubber washers.
The optimal design of the milling machine elevator in the table is screw, see next. rice. If the lower flange nut is additionally fixed with a lock nut (or a self-tightening flange nut is installed), the cutter extension is held iron. And its really operational adjustment is possible, literally on the go of the workpiece.
Precise mini table
For artistic woodworking and / or facade carpentry, an indispensable thing is a milling and copying machine. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but it is difficult, and it makes sense to acquire a factory one only if there is a stable flow of orders for work of this kind and solid skills in their implementation.
However, shaped grooves in the facade details of furniture, milled in a straight line, can give an excellent aesthetic effect. Direct milling is widely used in the manufacture of furniture and decorative wood products in any style, see fig. It is independently performed by low-power manual milling machines for wood with increased accuracy (on the right in the figure); installing a mini hand router in a table increases the quality of work and productivity in the same way as a "big" one.
Drawings of a mini milling table for wood under the domestic manual milling machine given on the trail. rice. Its distinguishing features are the cam side clamp of the workpiece and the vertical comb with wide teeth. Solution for working with quality materials quite justified: small frequent combs themselves “play back” a little on the workpiece, which is minimized in this design.
And the extractor?
When milling wood, many times more sawdust, shavings and wood dust are generated than during sawing operations. Dust spoils the accuracy of processing on the table and the health of its operator just like a dusty machine. Therefore, a dust collector, a dust outlet and a dust collector are just as necessary for a milling table; their design is the same for both the table and the machine, see acc. article.
The milling table will facilitate your work and help to increase the accuracy of processing workpieces. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a router table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step-by-step instruction for making a table.
The essence of all the designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.
Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small by building a simple countertop with upgradeability in mind. Work on it and gradually bring to mind.
Make a tabletop
The simplest table for a milling cutter is a separate working plate, placed on carpentry goats or between cabinets. The fixture costs a penny and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. You only need MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less friction resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.
Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to the dimensions and grind the ends.
Cutting pattern: 1 - main plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)
Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness sheet material often deviating from the standard. Make adjustments to the drawings, eliminating problems during assembly of the structure.
Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and mark 235 mm from the edge.
Place the overlay so that the router's main controls are next to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the places for drilling the holes for the mounting screws.
Determine the center location for the sole with equidistant screws.
For a base with asymmetrically spaced screws, measure the diameter of the overlay and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.
Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
- S=D/2-(D-H)
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the mounting screw locations.
Drill mounting holes and under the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.
Cut out the bends with an electric saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly leading to the marking line. Then lead the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the canvas. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Fasten the connecting strips from the bottom of the tabletop.
Glue all the blanks and fasten with additional screws. Pick up screws longer than the regular ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router at the bottom of the slab.
1 - side bar for fastening with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base
Fix the table on the goats with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
Build a solid foundation
The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. A portable table is stored on a rack, and is fixed on a workbench for work. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the table top and get a full-fledged machine.
Cut the cabinet pieces to the measurements given for a 820mm high table or modify them to make the table top level with other equipment .
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base
Lay the tabletop upside down. Install side panels in sequence and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Fasten the base, lay the frame face down, align the square corners and install the two back panels.
At the end, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the hull using roofing screws. Position the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.
1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal rack; 5 - rear panel
Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.
Insert mounting plate
Get a longer cutter overhang by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinaks or solid polycarbonate.
Cut out a 300 mm square from the sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. With a drill of the same diameter as the fixing screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.
Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the body of the tool until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole according to the mark with a hole saw.
Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.
Fix the thin boards around the marked contour with clamps.
Clamp in collet copy cutter bearing, set the cutting depth to match the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer regulator of the router and make the final pass.
Drill through holes under the screws and expand them from the back of the worktop with an 11 mm drill for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, leveling with the screwed bolts.
Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, lay it in place, drill the fixing holes and countersink with front side. Attach the part to the sole of the router, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the tabletop plane, if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.
Improve your focus
For faster and more convenient setup of the machine, modify the parallel side stop and complete the machine with a rotary stop, which helps to process the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides with a T-profile into the surface of the plate. To make cutouts in the countertop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.
Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the hidden screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.
Cut out a plywood cover with a hole in the center, fasten it to the scarves located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.
Add a safety shield to the stop, made from plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7 mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangentially and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps needed for milling small elements.
A comb press can be made from maple wood, choosing a straight-grained area. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular machine:
- Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
- Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
- Make a cut.
- Pull the workpiece back with the manual pusher.
- Turn the board 180°, saw through the other side.
- Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
- Move the fence back again and make cuts all over the workpiece.
Secure the clamps to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - nozzle for a vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of parts, especially in places where workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and cover with oil.
1 - drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop
Summing up the project
Materials needed:
- Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
- Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
- Several dozen screws.
- Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake — 4 pcs.
- Glue joiner's and epoxy.
- Bolts M6 with nuts.
The ability to take your time and think through every step, accurately mark and cut blanks, or the desire to learn this, came in handy. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a milling height adjustment mechanism.
A milling machine is purchased for a variety of carpentry work. But, sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need for reconstruction of the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is a great opportunity to save money cash and create a quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more comfortable working conditions will make it simply indispensable.
Milling table
An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple do-it-yourself milling table even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If for the first time you decide to try yourself in this area, then do not despair, if you wish, you can make a table for a manual router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose the ideal dimensions that are needed specifically for your room. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.
Milling table drawing
A home-made milling table can not be distinguished from a store version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move on the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this type of processing is made stationary, then the master will go to work much less time and effort.
A do-it-yourself table for a router occupies a certain space in the room. Therefore, before mounting, decide which table you want to see:
- aggregate;
- removable;
- stationary.
Aggregate Portable Stationary
Remember that most of the work can only be done in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because a portable model is quite suitable for rare use, and a stationary model for daily use. workplace.
What parts does a milling table consist of?
A homemade milling table can be made alone without the help of others. To do this, it is necessary to make all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become almost useless, as it will not perform its main duties. The do-it-yourself milling cutter consists of the following parts:
- countertops;
- beds;
- bottom stop;
- clamping combs;
- mounting plate.
The worktop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Perfect for this kitchen countertops, or, if not available, plain plywood. It is only worth remembering that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so the plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means can make the surface smooth, for more convenient operation. In the center you need to make a hole to install the router.
The drawings of the milling table cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the tool. To do this, you can use old bedside tables, tables, but on condition that they are very durable. Some focus on metal models, which is quite practical.
Milling table from an old nightstand
The bottom stop fixed on a table-top, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made fixed, for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is a very important element in the work, since the quality of the cutter will depend on the evenness of all sides.
Clamping combs on the table for circulars and routers are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will face in his work.
Experts advise immediately installing sliding combs and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.
Assembly rules
Assembling the milling table with your own hands should take place in stages. First you need to decide on the countertop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material feed control systems are attached.
In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.
Herself milling machine must be firmly fixed under the tabletop. It should not hang or hang, any movement can lead to injury during operation or damage to equipment. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.
The main thing in this way of working is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all sizes, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.
Electronics at work
Making a circular and milling table with your own hands is quite simple, but do not forget that this tool works from electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be in an inconvenient place for the master, you need to take care of their use. You can make an exit and install the start and stop buttons of the mechanism in a convenient place, but this requires knowledge in electronics.
There is an alternative option that is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is clamped, and it is in a permanently on state, stopping only by the cable when disconnected from the mains.
A do-it-yourself new milling table must fully comply with flooring workplace. If the floors are uneven, legs with a movable mechanism should be made, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the table for the router to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases the service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.
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Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. On longitudinal stop install a protective glass that will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.
When making a router table at home, with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and better take care of your safety.
The workshop of any person contains all the tools necessary for him. But at the same time, an urgent need for arranging the workplace may be necessary, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with such goods.
Milling table drawing
The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need, what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be a way out. Do not be afraid and waste time, even a beginner will figure out how to make a table.
Currently, milling equipment is very popular. The essence of this type of material processing is that the cutter processes the workpiece, which is fixed motionless, that is, the tool itself rotates, but the workpiece does not. However, this is not always convenient when it comes to a manual router. A table for a manual router is an excellent solution to this problem. You can make a design that will allow you to move the workpiece, and the manual milling cutter itself will be fixed permanently. The question arises, how to make a table for a manual router with your own hands.
Of course, you can try to search already turnkey solution, but this will be quite difficult to do, since a hand router is a specific tool. Such a table with your own hands can be made quite simply. However, to begin with, it is worth deciding on its design.
Selecting the type of table to be mounted
A table for a manual router with your own hands can be made in three types:
- portable;
- stationary;
- aggregate.
If we talk about the portable version, then it is ideal for a manual router. Such a table can be used not only directly in the workshop, but also drag it to any other convenient place.
When it comes to working in confined spaces, as well as in permanent place, then the stationary version looks preferable. It will be possible to do not only operations using a manual milling cutter, but also a lot of other actions. For example, sawing workpieces.
Drawing of a milling table with a milling lift.
In the event that the first two options are not suitable, you need to choose the third.
Before you make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you need to clearly understand what main parts it consists of. There must be a frame, table top, mounting plate, stops. These are the parts that are part of any table for a manual router. The easiest option is to use a ready-made table. You just need to attach additional details to it. Here you have to make stops, clamps and think over the method of fastening.
However, it is worth considering the process in more detail from the very beginning, so that there are no questions about how to make a table for a manual router with your own hands.
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Bed and its features
The bed is an integral part of any router table. And this applies not only manual option, but also ordinary. The bed consists of two parts - a framework and a table-top.
For work, you will need MDF or chipboard, as well as metal profiles and wood.
Exactly metallic profile provides simple assembly the whole structure. Here, all joints are not welded together, but are fastened by means of bolted joints. In this case, the connections are reliable, and if necessary, they are easy to disassemble.
As for the dimensions of the bed, they are selected depending on the size of the parts on it that will most often be processed. In order to avoid mistakes, it is worth getting a drawing. It should indicate all overall and geometric dimensions.
List of materials and parts for the manufacture of a milling table.
As for the height of the bed, it should be optimal for the work. It is best to choose a height from 0.8 to 1 m. However, it all depends mainly on the height of the person who has to work with a manual router. To avoid hitting the bottom of the table with your feet during work, it is worth making it recessed in relation to the top. In this case, all problems of this kind disappear.
For the manufacture of the cover should be used chipboard. This material perfectly resists various kinds of vibrations. In addition, such a surface will be hard and smooth, which means that the workpiece will easily slide and move along it.
You can also use thick plastic. Such a surface is quite easily processed using any tools. In addition, plastic is a smooth material on which the workpiece will glide perfectly. It does not even require additional processing. Plastic is easy to cut and process. This allows you to make excellent grooves on its surface and fasteners.
The aluminum worktop is also great option. This material is easily processed and is not exposed to external aggressive factors. First of all, we are talking about moisture. Aluminum does not corrode. The table top will last for years.
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Mounting plate: nuances
The mounting plate is one of the main parts of the machine. It just needs to be installed. The mounting plate allows you to save design features milling machine. This is done if the bed height exceeds 25 mm. This size takes place, since the frame is made 1 m high.
Very often, a metal sheet is used to make such a plate. It should have a minimum thickness. You can use a sheet of textolite.
This material is characterized by the highest strength, which in this case is a necessity.
The mounting plate can have different sizes, but they must fully match the size of the countertop. It shouldn't be too thick. Its optimal thickness is approximately 6-8 mm.
In the center of the workpiece, it is necessary to make a hole, which in diameter will be equal to the corresponding characteristic in the milling sole. Most models have special holes to which the plate is attached. If there are none, then they should be done on your own. For these purposes, a drill is used, in which a drill bit for metal is installed. You can do without extra holes.
Any hand router can be fixed with clips with springs.
This fastening method is also quite effective, but it is worth remembering that the staples must be made of durable material, since as a result of work there are numerous loads that cause the machine to vibrate. It can harm both the router itself and cause an accident.
All details for the table are now ready. It is very important that they are all made in accordance with this instruction. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the work will be done poorly.
