Cut a window in a wooden house - We make door and window openings in a wooden house. How to make a doorway in a wall from a bar

Hello Semyonitch. Please tell me how to transfer doorway interior door to wooden house? The material of the walls is timber. Thank you in advance!

Eugene, Barnaul.

Hello, Eugene from Barnaul!

There is little good in such a transfer, because, firstly, the structural strength of the structure decreases ( inner wall, as a rule, it is the same carrier as the outer walls of the log house, since elements often rely on it truss system or interfloor overlap). Secondly, the old doorway must be sealed, but with such an operation, the sealing site will be visually noticeable, which not all customers like, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to perfectly fit the "patch". Or do you have to close all this economy with various decorative elements.

And technically it is done approximately as follows. On both sides of the old doorway, technological racks from a metal assortment or wooden board with a cross section of at least 10 * 5 centimeters. For greater strength, such racks can be located in pairs, opposite each other on both sides of the wall. The height of the racks is not less than the height of the door, preferably 15-20 centimeters more to capture the first solid log above the doorway. Through the holes in the racks, they are fastened to the walls. The goal is to prevent the logs from falling out in one direction or another.

After that, the old one is dismantled door block along with the door panel. A new doorway is marked. In some cases, depending on individual features buildings, next to the future opening, exactly the same technological racks can be installed, which are mentioned above. This is done in case of a threat of collapse of the wall. But this is determined by the place, see for yourself how "flimsy" the wall is.

A new doorway is cut with dimensions completely identical to the old doorway.

The previously removed door block is inserted into the cut, it is better if without the door panel, which is installed only after the frame of the block is set strictly in accordance with the vertical level in two planes. This refers to the planes "neither to the right nor to the left" and neither to one side of the wall vertical, nor to the other.

The cut is made with a chain or reciprocating saw, hand saw it is also possible, but this requires appropriate skill, since it is possible for the hacksaw blade to leave to the right or left. You can also cut with a circular saw, but it’s better on the one hand, and then finish sawing with a hacksaw, it’s more convenient.

If you make a cut with a power tool for the first time, then first, on the one hand, at the risk, you saw five centimeters deep, no more, along the entire contour of the opening.

Then, on the other side of the wall, you will need a partner who will tell you if you are not far away from the mark with a barbell or saw blade when cutting through.

Fastening through vertical and horizontal frame members. On the vertical usually three fasteners. Top, bottom and middle. By upper crossbar and on the nut (if any) - from one to two fasteners. Preferably with self-tapping screws, so that if further adjustment is necessary, the self-tapping screws could simply be unscrewed. When fastening with nails, this will not work, there you “plow” with a nail puller so that there will be dents and it happens that you have to use it. However, all these are related trifles, which you can not talk about.

Then, if necessary, fill the gaps between the ends of the wall logs and the frame of the block with insulation or macroflex foam. If foam is used, then a transverse bar is inserted in the middle of the frame height, otherwise the foam can bend the vertical elements to such an extent that the panel will not fit. Frame the opening with platbands.

You close up the old opening either with the help of cut logs from the new opening, or with other material (panels, sheets, blockhouse, clapboard, imitation timber, etc.) or with other decorative elements to your liking.

Remove all technological racks around the old and new openings.

/ In rare cases, they can be left when there are doubts about the strength and stability of the wall after rearranging the door. With the incorporation of these racks with decorative elements, most often in the form of vertical polished boards installed in the form of boxes. But, I repeat, this is decided locally and as needed./

All. Good luck!

Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors, windows:

doors

Installation of doors in the opening of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
Installation of an entrance metal door in a log house

It is difficult to imagine a house without doors and without windows. Cutting out windows and doorways in a wooden house is a whole art, because even a slight deviation from technology can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, if window and door openings were cut incorrectly, they can simply be squeezed out during the natural shrinkage of the house.

It is necessary to start cutting openings in a wooden house during the shrinkage period, after.

Technology for cutting window and door openings

Openings for windows and doors can be cut in two different ways:

Cutting openings is made after complete shrinkage of the house. Initially set solid wooden frame without window or door openings. And only when the house gives the final shrinkage (as a rule, after 12 months), window and door openings are cut out along the intended borders. It should be noted that due to the significant amount of waste received, this method of cutting openings is much more costly.
Window and door openings are cut directly in the process of making a log house. At the same time, in places of openings, it is necessary to make notches for joinery and cut vertical grooves at the ends of the walls. Bars are subsequently inserted into these grooves, the task of which is to perform a guiding function during the subsequent shrinkage of the house. The remaining gap in the upper part of the grooves is insulated. Strict adherence to construction technology guarantees smooth, beautiful and compact openings for windows and doors.

Whatever technology of cutting techniques you choose, you should mark the locations of windows and doors in advance so that it does not turn out that dowels and dowels have already been installed in place of windows or doors. The installation of dowels and dowels is necessarily carried out on those walls where it is planned to cut down more than two windows. Otherwise, such a wall may sag under the weight of the roof.

Currently, window and door openings are cut out as follows: they start cutting the log house, leaving openings slightly smaller than necessary for the project. Then, in the middle of the opening, one continuous crown is passed (as in the case of a blank wall). This is done every 3-4 crowns. These logs are sawn out only after the house has completely shrinked. It should be noted that window and door openings with this cutting method are usually made a few centimeters narrower than necessary, which simplifies the process of final alignment of the openings.

Sawing openings is carried out using a chainsaw, while the upper and lower logs are cut only halfway, which simplifies the further execution of the pigtail.

Okosyachka is a process of casing openings, due to which their deformation is excluded. Thanks to the pigtail, the crowns of the timber can move freely during shrinkage vertically, preventing the logs from being squeezed out.

Mistakes when cutting window and door openings

Among the main mistakes that are often made when cutting window and door openings are the following:

They begin to cut openings directly in the process of cutting the house. In the process of shrinkage, logs may be squeezed out.
Immediately cut openings of the desired size. As a result, after the final alignment, window and door openings are large sizes than required.
They forget to make a pigtail of openings, which leads to their deformation.
Dowels are not installed on walls with two window openings. Under the weight of the roof, the wall can sag.
use mounting foam instead of mineral wool

Dreaming of creating your own cozy corner, you made a decision to build log house . And now, taking timber as the basis for the future cottage, you involuntarily ran into a problemmanufacturing window and door openings in a wooden house. DIYit may seem impossible, but it is not. The key is to understand the process and technological features the task assigned to you.

General information on the formation of the opening.

Under construction.

The opening is made at the stage of construction of the log house

The hardest thing about anything is getting started. Modern methods of construction provide marking for future doors and windows at the stage of building construction. That is, the opening is cut out initially, and at the end of the construction you have ready-made holes.

How it's done?

It is quite simple, having decided on the location and dimensions of the opening, and in the process of setting the crowns of the building, cut out the required size in a log with a frequency of 3-4 crowns. This is done to prevent possible extrusion of the crowns, and after the construction is completed, these "crossbars" are cut out.

Tip: make the opening already 1/10 of the outgoing size, this will help with further alignment.

This technology is excellent for both plain and rounded logs. Profiled timber makes it even easier to form an opening and does not require a "crossbar".

After construction.

The opening is cut in the wall of the log house

As an option for making window and door openings in a wooden house, cut an opening in an already finished wall with your own hands. This is done using a conventional binzo / electric saw. The first and last log is cut to ½, later this will facilitate the process of pigtailing. All irregularities are removed with a chisel and planer.

Applicable to all types of logs. If the building is made of glued beams, care is needed because of the possible chipping and peeling of the glued boards.

It is worth remembering that you need to cut the opening in the place where there are no wooden stakes (dowels) fastening the timber together.

Tip: for marking in case of sawing, you need to use laser level and plumb otherwise the result may be unexpected.

When making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands, first of all, you need to frame the opening using one of the types of pigtails.

Why is this needed?

An okosyachka or casing is needed to protect the door and window openings from natural shrinkage and shrinkage of wooden logs during the operation of the building. It protects the integrity of doors and windows and prevents their deformation. Casing is carried out in the form of a prefabricated frame from the sidewalls, the top and the window sill (threshold).

The manufacturing process of the pigtail is the same for all types of timber and is divided into the following steps:

Cutting "grooves" or "thorns" at the end of the log.
Manufacture and fitting of pigtail parts (technology varies depending on the type of casing).
Consistent collection of all parts of the casing.
Window or door installation.

Options for casing window openings:

Monolithic connection

Basically, there are three types of pigtails.

Let's consider the simplest one.

Monolithic connection. There are two subspecies.

In the first case, with the help of a chisel or chainsaw (if possible), a cut (“groove”) is made in the end of the beam with a depth of up to 10-12 cm. Then, using the same tools, a corresponding spike is cut out in the board for casing (usually a board 5 cm thick and 15-20 cm wide is used).

All sides of the casing also have additional grooves at the end. The sidewalls have a T-shaped protrusion 5 cm in size, the upper and lower parts have a U-shaped depression. They serve to clutch the pigtails into a more stable structure.

This method is called T-shaped or otherwise in a deck.

The second option, U-shaped (or in a deck), is fundamentally no different and the main difference is that the spike will be on the log, and the groove is made in the pigtail board.

The side parts of the pigtail are mounted first, then they are wedged with a window sill board, the top is installed last, also by spreading the side parts.

The procedure for assembling casing and installation for doorways.

Although the process of preparation and installation is similar to the window casing, there are some differences.

Having chosen the type of monolithic connection (P or T) and cutting through the corresponding poses, first of all, you install the sidewalls of the casing. Further, with the help of additional grooves, the lower part of the casing is spaced. The vertex is mounted last. For casing, it is necessary to make a casing (you can choose any suitable material). The platband acts as an insulating component and will not allow drafts.

Note: There should be a space between the top and the timber of the building within 1/20 of the height of the window/door opening. This is the so-called gap on the draft of the timber. The gap itself is filled with a sealant and hidden under the casing.

Mounting the apex

All connections are sealed and fixed with terrible nails (although in doorways, hard mounting of the threshold in clusters is sometimes allowed).

What should in no case be allowed in the process of making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands.

Firstly, you should not rely on your diamond eye, stuffed hand and old dad's level. Only accurate marking with the help of modern devices will give the desired result!

Secondly, forgetting or not considering it necessary (and why am I building a bathhouse, it won’t let you land) leave a gap between the top and the log, you run the risk of being left, as they say, “No windows, no doors.”

The third thing to remember is to measure seven times, cut once. It is better to measure everything several times than to try to close up the gaps and get rid of the draft.

Strengthening the structure with liquid nails

In no case should you plant the casing on a “hard” grip with the beam, even if you just have a bathhouse. After heavy rains and a period of scorching sun, the beam can lead to the side and the casing will simply turn out.

You should not save on antiseptics and other woodworking materials, it is not uncommon for timber to rot in grooves and other contact points due to moisture penetration.

Do not try to use a metal hammer or sledgehammer when spreading the sides of the pigtail, upper and lower boards. This will deform the tree. There are special rubberized or wooden options.

Installation video

Something you wanted to do but forgot or a few helpful tips.

Glued profiled timberit is worth trimming with more “gentle” devices than a chainsaw, for example, grinder to avoid structural damage.
Before you start installation pigtails, it is worth carefully re-checking its connections with other parts (assemble it several times outside the opening, insert individual parts into the opening and check their adhesion)
Oddly enough, but tow is the best suited for sealing cracks and at the same time quite elastic.
One of the options for sealing between the top and the beam can be ordinary glass wool (it is worth stuffing it tightly into the gap and closing it with a casing), it perfectly retains heat and has excellent cushioning abilities.
Try to keep yourself away from large window openings and attics - this greatly affects the stability of the log house.

Finally.

Thanks to modern building technologies you can choose any right size windows or doors, and if you get an error in the miscalculations, or something just went wrong during the installation process, you can always order a larger door or window. And in order not to tempt fate in the future and not to try to master the manufacture of window and doorways in a wooden house with your own hands, it is better to invite the hands of a professional and a master of their craft.

Carrier opening device brick wall, decorating an arch in an apartment is not a very simple process. In this case, the structure of the building is violated, the consequences of which can be fatal. However modern technologies make it possible to significantly minimize the risks of weakening the structure, subject to the required technology.

This article proposes to get acquainted with how to properly equip an opening in a load-bearing wall with your own hands.

Before starting work, it is necessary to legitimize the proposed changes in the supporting structures.

For this:

A plan is drawn up that describes all the redevelopment actions, including the last little things.
The project is submitted to the appropriate organization for consideration.

Tip: Only having permission to open the opening, you can begin to carry out the planned reorganization of the apartment and coordinate the project for its redevelopment.

To estimate what will be the price of making an opening in a load-bearing wall, it is possible only after deciding on the contractor.

The project and all works can be:

Develop and do it yourself. The responsibility for the strength of the structure will be entirely on the owner of the premises, and the cost determines the type of tool and materials used to strengthen the opening.
Contact a construction company. At the same time, the cost is quite high, but all responsibility, in this case, for the result of the work will lie with the company that undertook the work.

Before drawing up a project, you need to decide on the following information:

Determine what material was used in the manufacture bearing wall.
Opening width.
The number of floors in the building.
The thickness of the bearing wall and the presence of defects in it.
How the floors are located, their type and height from the floor to them.

These data are necessary to calculate the structure, what reinforcement of the opening will be required for the load-bearing wall.

Tip: With an increase in the number of storeys of the building, the width of the opening, there will be more defects: cracks, potholes, bends. In this case, the jumper above the opening should be made more reliable. But even in the absence of such flaws, it is necessary to use steel channels, which makes the structure more rigid, combined with a not too high material cost.

How to strengthen the jumper over the opening

Before starting the construction of the opening, it is necessary to install a jumper.

A part of the wall will rest on it, which will remain above the future opening, which will remain from:

Wall-supported ceiling.
Upper floor walls.
Roof structures.

The safety of the wall structure and the entire house depends on the stiffness of the lintel. When developing jumper drawings, it is necessary, in addition to previously obtained information, to take into account several more factors, which should be:

The dimensions of the opening relative to the entire area of the wall.
The distance between the opening and adjacent walls.
Dimensions from floor to top of opening.
Type and placement of floor slabs.

Tip: Do not design the jumper yourself. To do this, you need to contact an experienced designer who will decide whether it is necessary to additionally support the floor slab when making the jumper in order to reduce the load from the wall. This is necessary when making a very large opening. The designer selects the material for the manufacture of the ceiling above the hole in the wall.

There are several ways to strengthen the jumper.

How to make a hole in a load bearing wall

It is easier to make a hole in a brick wall.

Wherein:

It is enough to remove one row of brickwork
All remaining rows are removed without much difficulty.

It is more difficult to dismantle reinforced concrete.

This will require:

Bulgarian.
Perforator.

Tip: The technology of dismantling a certain area in concrete wall depends entirely on its thickness. The best option, which should cut through the opening - cutting concrete into cubes.

Hole punching instructions:

The disk of the grinder plunges into the wall to the full depth.
Vertical cuts are made in increments of approximately 60 centimeters.
Horizontal lines are then cut with the same step.
The resulting cubes are knocked out with a perforator.
The following layers are removed in the same way.
If the thickness of the bearing wall is standard, such notches are made on both sides. In this case, the internal residue is removed in one cut.

This method is used for internal load-bearing walls located in panel houses. In external load-bearing walls, cutting will need to be done several times on each side.

Finishing the opening

The final completion of the strengthening of the metal structure is as follows:

They are connected by welding with transverse channel plates on both sides of the wall. Plates are used with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and a width of more than 5 centimeters, which depends on the instructions in the developed project and technical conditions.
Elements are distributed in increments of 30-40 centimeters around the entire perimeter of the completed opening.
At the same time, the channel is welded in previously inaccessible places until the opening has been cut.
plastered inner part opening with the installation of a reinforcing metal mesh, which will be welded onto the channel.

Tip: All pits and potholes obtained after working with a perforator should be filled with a solution to the maximum. Special attention butt joints between the channels and the wall must be given.

How to make an opening in a wooden load-bearing wall

To make an opening in a wooden house from a bar, you will need:

Plumb.
Ruler or flat rail one meter long.
Marker.
Pencil.
Locksmith's hammer.
Carnations.
Petrol or electric saw.
Bars 100x100 mm, length equal to the height of the room.

If, when sawing the opening, the wall of the house from the timber begins to bend to the side, then in order to prevent such problems it is necessary:

In these bars and the wall of the house with one step from each other, drill through holes for the bolts.
Prepared bars are attached on both sides to the wall of the house.
In places of deflection, they are tightened with bolts.

Sawing the opening can be resumed.
After the installation of the pigtails, the bars are removed, such an element itself strengthens the opening.

Tip: Before starting sawing the opening, you should make sure that solid logs are located above the opening, they will distribute the future load on the walls evenly on opposite sides of the opening.

When making any changes to the layout of the apartment, it should be carefully studied. routing. The device of the load-bearing wall in the ground is described in detail in this document, which is approved by the state authorities. It also describes in detail the arrangement of external non-bearing walls, which can also be supplemented with an opening, but with a lighter structure.

And how to do it right, with all the details, to complete any opening will tell the video in this article. In case of unauthorized changes in the design of the house, you can get irreversible consequences The lives of many people depend on the correct performance of all work.

Okosyachka or casing - what is it, why is it made, what types of connections are used, how to arrange a window and doorway in a log house wall? These questions are often asked by many owners. land plots who decided to build a bathhouse or another wooden building with your own hands.

Okosyachka or casing(casing box), which is one and the same, is a team wooden frame inserted into the opening wooden wall for its rigid fastening, and the subsequent installation of doors or windows in a reinforced opening.

Of course, this is a simplified interpretation of the properties of the pigtail. In fact, it carries a number of such basic design functions that do not allow windows and doors to deform during operation. These include the following properties:

Creation of a strong connection in the opening of the cut crowns of the log house.
Providing a gap between the window (or door) frame and the upper adjacent log, which is necessary to compensate for the draft of the log house.
Creating a sliding connection of the casing with the ends of the cut logs. This property prevents deformation installed windows and doors during the draft of the log house, as well as when their overall dimensions change under the influence of atmospheric phenomena, for example, when high humidity- increase, and at elevated temperature - decrease, and vice versa.
Reliable fastening in the casing of windows and doors.

Options for casing connections in openings in wooden walls

Connection "to the deck"

With this type of connection, everything is done in a mirror image - a spike is processed in the logs, and a groove in the jambs. The assembly of the pigtail is carried out in the same order.

"Finish" casing connection

According to the method of processing materials, the pigtail can be of two types: "rough" or "finishing".

A draft version of the casing is used when the walls will be sheathed with decorative building materials(lining, siding, etc.). In this case, all roughly processed logs and the pigtail itself must be covered with finishing materials.

The second option assumes that it will be installed in the opening without further processing and will perform, in addition to the main function, also decorative. For example, if the walls of a log house are made of round logs or profiled timber and you want the interior of the bath to be as close as possible to its original appearance.

The finished casing box is installed using 50x50 mm embedded bars, which are inserted into the corresponding vertical grooves under these bars. Jambs made in the form of a quarter (letter "G") are installed in the opening, fixed to the embedded bars and bursting with the lower and upper boards. A quarter is located on the outside of the log house, and will serve as a support for window or door frames.

Stitched lnovatin is used to seal the joints. All irregularities and damaged sections of the casing are covered with platbands from the outer and inside log house. At the top of the casing, a gap of 6-10 cm to the upper crown must be left to compensate for the settlement of the log house, and it is filled with heat-insulating material, for example, basalt wool, jute, moss, etc.

How to make a window and door frame

Openings for doors and windows are cut out either after the log house is fully assembled, or during its construction. If the building is planned to be used after the final settlement, then the best option will cut the opening after all construction works. Otherwise, it is possible to select the opening directly in the process of erecting wooden walls.

With any method, to prevent the logs from being squeezed over the openings, it is necessary to drive in or mark out places for dowels (2 pieces per opening). Otherwise, under the weight of the upper part of the log house, deformation of logs, casing, window and door frames may occur. It is important to provide correct location dowels so that when cutting the opening, they are not removed along with the log trimmings.

In order to make it easier to navigate, you can make marks for the dimensions of the openings, or when building walls, make one crown with a hole that repeats the width of the opening. If an opening in the wall is made during the construction process, then it dimensions reduced with a guaranteed tolerance for subsequent finishing.

One of the options for installing a casing after the construction of a log house can be the following technological process:

It is also useful to watch this video, which will complement this article:

So, all the work on the design of openings in the wall is completed. Now you can start installing doors and windows. True, this is usually done after they have been erected.