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A do-it-yourself board dryer is made if there is a need to process a large volume of unprepared wood. Of course, you can immediately purchase blanks with optimal humidity, but in this case the costs of purchasing the material will be very high. So the construction of a special device can be quite effective from an economic point of view.
In our article we will tell you. How to dry wood, and we provide recommendations for independent arrangement drying chamber.
Theoretical aspects
Moisture in wood
Before we start designing a dryer, we need to understand why it is needed. As the name suggests, similar devices are designed to remove excess liquid from wood, and here it is worth paying attention to the theory.
All moisture in wood is divided into two groups:
- free - found in cell cavities and intercellular spaces. The free moisture content is primarily determined by the conditions in which the tree grew, as well as the storage conditions of the sawn pieces. When drying, free moisture leaves the wood quite quickly;
- bound (structural) – a liquid that is part of the cell walls. Each type of wood normally has its own level of moisture content in the structure. In this case, the removal of bound liquid occurs very slowly, therefore, under natural conditions, drying can take from several months to several years.
As a rule, the limit of wood saturation with moisture is at the level of 30%. Wood with higher humidity is considered damp and is almost never used for work.
Humidity indicators for different materials differ:
Why is drying necessary?
So, we’ve dealt with moisture itself, now let’s analyze why we need to reduce it.
- When moisture is removed, the configuration of the wood fibers naturally changes, resulting in a reduction in the size of the board - it “dries out.”
- In this case, the workpiece loses moisture unevenly, so deformation can also occur in different planes at different rates.
- Due to this, stress lines are formed inside the wood, which subsequently give rise to cracks.
Note!
As a rule, the board cracks along the grain, starting from the end.
This is due to the least strong bonds between the longitudinal fibers.
- In addition to cracking, it is also possible transverse deformation boards: the part is either bent in an arc, or due to the uneven raising of the edges, a so-called “propeller” is formed. This behavior is explained simply: not all fibers dry at the same time, which means their length also decreases in different ways.
As you can see, if you use wood with high content moisture, over time, individual parts may become unusable. There is one way to avoid this - before starting work, prepare the raw materials by drying them in one way or another.
Drying modes
The use of drying chambers can significantly reduce the time required to prepare lumber for work. At the same time, by controlling the dehydration regime, we can control operational properties the resulting material.
Today, experts distinguish three drying modes:
| Mode | Peculiarities |
| Soft | The temperature in the chamber rises gradually, due to which not only the natural strength of the wood is preserved, but also its color. At the same time, the rate of dehydration of raw materials is slightly reduced. |
| Standard | It is used to bring the material to its final moisture content while maintaining almost complete strength. In this case, a slight change in shade is possible. |
| Forced | Forced drying is used to prepare lumber for work as quickly as possible. After high-temperature treatment, the bending, compressive and tensile strength is maintained, but the splitting strength may be slightly reduced. It is also possible that the wood may darken and a characteristic odor may appear. |
Creating a drying chamber
Ready premises
- We lay a strip or column foundation under the structure. Since the mass of the structure will be small, we make the base shallow.
- After the foundation concrete has dried, we assemble a frame from an aluminum or galvanized steel profile. We connect the frame parts using bolts and special brackets.
Note!
Price aluminum structures significantly higher, but at the same time they are significantly more resistant to corrosion in warm and humid environments.
So the use of more expensive load-bearing elements quite justified.
- We cover the walls and roof with steel sheets, which we fix to the frame with metal screws (with a drill). For maximum efficiency We perform double cladding, laying a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm between the metal sheets.
- We lay a dense waterproofing membrane on the floor, which we cover with a layer of sawdust.
- We install doors that should close as tightly as possible. For additional sealing, you can reinforce the door frame with bars with rubber sheets attached.
- As in the case of using a ready-made room, be sure to install ventilation ducts for air circulation.
After completing the work, we check the tightness of the room, if necessary, eliminating defects in the cladding. Now we just need to equip our drying chamber.
Note!
A closed dryer should not have any gaps that allow uncontrolled air flow.
This is due to the fact that the presence of the slightest draft can provoke uneven processing of the boards, causing them to crack or deform.
Equipment
Instructions for arranging a dryer can be very different, because the equipment of the chamber largely depends on both our requests and financial capabilities.
And yet it is quite possible to formulate a general scheme:
- First, we make supports on which the stack of boards will be installed. We fix it on the floor, allowing the material to be dried to be raised approximately 10-15 cm above the floor level to ensure circulation in the lower layer of air.
- Instead of supports, you can use wall racks. At the same time, we attach metal brackets to the load-bearing surfaces, intended for laying stacks along the walls of the drying chamber.
Note!
This option is most often used when temporarily converting part of an outbuilding into a dryer.
- Next, install the heating device. It could be a stove, fireplace, heat gun, fan heater, etc. – it all depends on your preferences. Key parameter will be the power of the device, which is calculated based on the volume of loaded wood: to dry 1 m3 of boards, at least 3 kW of thermal energy is needed, accordingly, the more raw materials we need, the more powerful the apparatus we will need.
- Together with heating devices, we install fans that will ensure air movement. Of course, you can save on buying a ventilation system and get by with natural exhaust, but in this case the time to prepare the boards for work will increase significantly, which means the cost of heating the chamber will also increase.
- We place fans and heating devices in such a way that warm air flows across the air flow. This installation can significantly reduce the aerodynamic resistance of the system, so that the dryer will work more efficiently.
Since for our camera to function we will need a large number of electricity, it is advisable to connect a separate power cable to it. In this case, we connect all used units to the distribution panel through an RCD with the corresponding power partners. Such a precaution will not be superfluous, since wood, even if not completely dried, can catch fire from the slightest spark that appears during a short circuit.
Advice!
It is also advisable to set automatic system temperature and ventilation control.
It is quite expensive, but its use allows you to control the parameters of the internal environment of the dryer, thereby ensuring maximum quality of wood processing.
Using the dryer
If the drying chamber was assembled according to all the rules, then using it will be quite simple. To do this, we stack the boards, placing bars up to 20 mm thick between the rows, and load the stack into the dryer.
After this, we begin to change the temperature, gradually increasing the heat.
There are many drying schemes, but beginning craftsmen should use low temperature regime, as providing maximum quality with minimal risk of defects:
- Heating - raise the temperature to 45 - 50 0C at a speed of 5 - 70 C per hour.
- Exposure – keep at 50 0C for 5 hours.
- Drying – reduce the humidity of the wood from 30 to 8%, gradually increasing the temperature to 60 0C. This stage takes about 48 hours. Supply and exhaust ventilation are turned on at half power.
- Air conditioning – maintain the temperature at 600C for another 12 hours. Ventilation must work actively.
- Cooling down to ambient temperature with heating and ventilation turned off.
As a result, we should get boards suitable for most types of carpentry and joinery work.
Conclusion
As you can see, making a board dryer with your own hands is quite simple (but I must admit, with certain financial costs). At the same time, the use of this device allows you to obtain a large amount of construction raw materials, which, if purchased from the manufacturer, would be much more expensive.
For a more detailed introduction to the technology of chamber drying of wood, we advise everyone who is interested in this topic to study the video in this article.
And the physical and mechanical properties are improved. If you use unprepared wood, defects in the product cannot be avoided: moisture evaporates unevenly, which causes cracks, deformations, and breaks.
Wood drying methods
Previously, lumber was dried by evaporation and waxing, which made the wood very durable and wear-resistant. Nowadays, these methods are practically not used, since modern technologies make it possible to achieve excellent results at much lower costs.
Atmospheric, natural drying does not require special equipment, which is an undoubted advantage of the method, but the drying period itself is quite long, from several months to two years. With this method, the wood is placed on outdoors, under a canopy or in a room with good ventilation. The workpieces are stacked on special stands in such a way that there are gaps for the penetration of air flows.
As a rule, the end boards dry faster and are more often subject to deformation; cracks may appear at the ends - all this should be taken into account when harvesting wood.
Chamber drying is considered the most effective: different types cameras and process automation allow you to select best option drying for a specific type tree species, but this method is used only in large or small industries.
A wood drying chamber produces lumber with a certain degree of moisture, which cannot be achieved by other methods, but the process itself requires considerable energy and, in general, financial costs.
How to make a dryer with your own hands?
If there is no opportunity to use industrial drying, you should try to build a drying chamber with your own hands.
DIY wood dryer- opportunity to achieve good results at minimal cash costs.
To build a dryer you will need: an aluminum profile, metal sheets, thermal insulation, waterproofing, sawdust, heat gun.
Stages of construction and use
Frame covering aluminum sheets, door installation.
Laying thermal insulation up to 15 cm thick.
Covered the floor with waterproofing material and sawdust.
Checking the tightness of the structure and eliminating air leaks.
Construction of stack supports. In order to raise the bottom row of boards above the floor surface, it is necessary to install supports made of bars or other material.
Laying out boards indoors. The lumber is laid out in rows using lumber spacers so that air can freely penetrate between the boards anywhere in the stack. You can lay out the boards right up to the ceiling.
Installation of a fan heater or other heating equipment. Forced circulation air contributes to a faster drying process. The direction of flow should be perpendicular to the location of the boards.
Your DIY board dryer is ready!
There is another way to create a dryer with your own hands - inside the house or cottage. It is suitable for small volumes of lumber.
First of all, you will need a room with a fireplace, stove or electric oven where the dryer will be placed.
Then partitions, doors and windows are installed. The tightness of the room must be perfect, otherwise drafts and air currents can affect the quality of drying. All cracks, crevices, and holes are sealed with sealant, and the walls are covered with insulation.
To maintain heat from the stove, you can line the room with brick.
In case of insufficient circulation warm air a fan is installed.
For laying lumber are constructed metal shelves with reliable fastenings to avoid collapse of the structure. The boards themselves are arranged according to the same principle: in even rows with gaps and spacers made of bars.
A drying chamber for wood will improve the properties of wood, increase its strength and durability, that is, it will allow you to obtain the highest quality raw materials for construction.
Photo sources: sawwood.ru, yugmassiv.ru, zharbond.ru, makilplus.ru, dnepro.com.ua, house-lab.ru, hobbyblog.org, stroydrev.by, sushkadrevesiny.com, saw-wood.com, strport.ru
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How to make a cheap vacuum dryer for wood with your own hands
Hello dear readers and subscribers of Andrey Noak's Blog! Do you know what is most important about wood materials? This is high quality drying.
Each enterprise uses a special drying technology. But if you want to dry the material yourself, then I will tell you how to make a vacuum dryer with your own hands. But first, a little theory.
Wood is a hygroscopic material, this is due to the fact that wood absorbs water evaporation from the air.
Each wood material has varying degrees of moisture content, depending on storage conditions and the environment.
Why dry wood?
Drying is the process of removing moisture from a material through evaporation.
When a tree grows, its metabolism is carried out by the circulation of moisture through the trunk. When cutting, the circulation stops and the moisture begins to evaporate.
In order to build a house or make any wooden product, you need to properly dry the logs.
Purchased vacuum dryer
Well-dried material is protected from fungi, damage and cracks, and its service life will significantly increase.
If the drying was of high quality, then the product will serve you for many years.
Wood is divided into categories depending on the degree of moisture:
- wet is considered to be one that has been in water and its humidity is one hundred percent;
- freshly cut, with humidity ranging from 50 to 100%;
- air-dry, in cases where the material has been exposed to air for a long time.
The moisture content of such wood is approximately 15-20%;
- room-dry, with humidity 8-12%
- absolutely dry, the humidity of which is exactly 0.
Wet material will be difficult to process, but is flexible and elastic.
Properties of dry wood
Dry material has greater biological resistance. After drying, strength increases and withstands load better. It is easy to process, and the products do not crack after processing, unlike raw wood, in which the process of rotting may even begin under suitable conditions.
Ancient drying methods
A long time ago, people used only wood to build houses.
In houses you can find wooden utensils. Therefore, it was necessary to come up with ways to properly dry logs as the main building material.
At that time, people used several drying methods.
For this method, they took the necessary piece of wood, water and sawdust. The water was heated to 70 degrees, the workpiece was placed in it, then it was covered with sawdust and left for a certain time so that the material was steamed.
After drying, the workpiece did not crack, and the structure became denser and more flexible.
Paraffinization is another method that has been widely used for a very long time.
Here, wooden blanks were dipped into paraffin heated to 40 degrees and left for several hours. It was important to maintain the same temperature of the substance.
After the procedure, the wood must dry for several days. The properties of the material change after drying. The workpiece does not crack, does not rot, and acquires an original tinted shade.
Craftsmen used this drying method to make wooden utensils, and then skillfully painted the finished product.
Wood moisture content, measurement methods
There are many ways to determine humidity.
To accurately determine the moisture content of wood, special instruments are used. Electric moisture meters are capable of determining humidity with an accuracy of 2-3%. The basic principle of such devices is based on the fact that wood different humidity has different electrical resistance.
There are many more “folk” ways to determine humidity, but only professionals use them:
- By weight, weighing identical pieces of wood of the same species in hand or on scales one by one.
- Experienced specialists determine humidity “by eye”, by the presence of cracks and breaks.
- According to the shavings.
When processing lumber, small shavings are compressed in a fist. If it wrinkles easily, then the material is wet. Dry wood is indicated by the fragility of the chips, but if the chips crumble, then most likely the wood has been overdried.
- By cutting. If, when processing wood with a chisel, a wet mark is noted, and the material is easily and smoothly cut, then it is not dried. It is better not to carve on such a surface, as cracks and flaws will appear when it dries.
Assembling a vacuum dryer at home
It is very profitable to dry the wood yourself, and if you do this with the help vacuum dryer, then the drying time will be reduced significantly.
But buy vacuum drying It’s a little expensive in factories, and I’ll tell you how you can make it yourself, and also save on it.
Drying at home takes place in special chambers.
To set it up, you will need a large room, a heat source, and a fan to distribute the heat inside the structure.
The floor, walls and ceiling of such drying must be very strong; reinforced concrete or an iron conveyor is best.
If you take a cheap used iron conveyor for example with railway, then this will even be a very cheap option. Or, for example, to reduce the cost, you can weld the conveyor yourself from old iron.
To preserve heat inside the chamber, we reinforce the walls with foam plastic and line them with clapboard.
Instead of polystyrene foam, you can use mineral wool or other insulation.
To reflect heat, you need to lay a special material. You can use foil, but penofol will also work, especially since its heat-reflecting and preserving qualities are much better.
We proceed to installing the heating device.
The entire heating system must be installed separately from others heating circuits and must work constantly. You can use a heating radiator, with which the water is heated to 65-90 degrees.
In order for the heat in the chamber to be equally distributed, a fan is required, otherwise there will be uneven drying of the raw materials and, accordingly, low quality.
One more point, the temperature in the chamber should change smoothly and gradually.
When building your own drying room, you must follow all the rules fire safety.
An important point is the construction of a system for loading lumber into the chamber. You will be loading large and fairly heavy boards. Carts running on rails or a forklift work well for this. The material inside is placed on shelves or simply on the floor. To control the drying process you must install special sensors, and these are thermocouples and vacuum (pressure) sensors.
If you do everything right you can get very quality wood with good presentation.
The main point in the construction of a dryer is to achieve the necessary parameters inside the chamber, and the materials and equipment that were used do not matter.
In your chamber you can reduce the drying process of raw materials to 2 weeks.
How does vacuum drying work?
After you have placed the material in the drying chamber and closed the door tightly, you can begin drying. Air is extracted from the chamber to create a vacuum of about 9 - 10 bar. It is known that when pressure decreases, water boils faster.
Thanks to this technology, bound and free moisture will move evenly from the center to the periphery, thereby ensuring high-quality and uniform drying of the material, regardless of location.
Dry top wood cells will absorb moisture from those located in the core.
First, thin places dry out, then moisture from thicker layers moves to the dry ones, thereby moisturizing them. If this process is interrupted, the material may collapse as thinner layers begin to shift.
Coating the ends of thick lumber to prevent rapid release of moisture and the formation of cracks during drying.
To prevent displacement, lumber is treated with a special mixture made from chalk and drying oil.
Often the end parts of workpieces need to be processed.
Drying excludes the use of humidification systems, and thermometers should not be installed in the chambers. The process can be controlled using special sensors, which are controlled externally, often in a separate vestibule.
Often vacuum installations used for drying expensive species such as oak, merbau, padauk, wenge, zebrawood.
It is very convenient, since the wood is practically not destroyed when dried.
My help
I have the opportunity to provide advice on drying technology, selection of new and used equipment.
You can contact me through SUPPORT.
Recently my A new book which provides recommendations for the operation of drying complexes in production. The information given in the book is simply unique, you definitely won’t find it anywhere else.
More information about the book can be found in the “MY BOOKS” section.
Good luck and see you again!
vacuum dryer
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Purpose of modular wooden drying chambers.
Drying chambers SCM series, students in the category "100 best products in Russia." They are designed for drying hardwood and coniferous species in accordance with quality categories 0, 1, 2, 3 depending on the purpose of the wood. Drying chambers Our production certified and answer " General requirements to monitoring and control systems environment drying chambers" and "Requirements for quality drying" in accordance with the Russian Technical Material (RTM) guidelines for chamber drying in wood.
Installation, design features of SCM wooden dryers.
Striving for maximum build speed and speed wooden drying chamber partially included in SCM models. Modular design wooden drying chamber simplifies delivery and installation.
To satisfy the wishes of the company's customers, many standard sizes Drying chambers. Now TERMOTECH develops and produces wooden drying chambers and complexes with pneumatic load from 6 to 180 m³ operating on thermal energy generated by burning wood waste or stationary boiler houses.
Drying chambers with a load capacity of up to 20 cubic meters. They have a body in the form of a complete container with a supporting frame, the dimensions of which can be shipped by road or rail.
High mobility and low cost installation work allow you to build a heated drying cabinet with heated floor. When renting production space wooden drying chambers with underfloor heating is more practical. With a low probability of frequent disassembly, for example. If we have our own space, we can offer a version of the drying chamber body without floor insulation. The cost of cameras without floor insulation is lower, we need more work to install.
Clamping required cement cement regardless of the height of the already welded track in the place of our company, on the transverse stiffener. mollusk Drying chambers volume 20 cubic meters up to 180 m3. They are made in the form of modular blocks, are easily transported, and are easily connected with screw connections. The time required to assemble a modular drying chamber ranges from 4 to 8 hours, proportional to the number of modules.
Seams are sealed when installing drying modules using a special rubber profile and silicone sealant, which is delivered to the customer along with the drying chamber.
The roof of modular wooden drying chambers, depending on the loading volume, is made one-sided or two-sided. All SCM drying chambers are equipped with a condensate collection and removal system, which increases the service life of the fence. For better sealing Wooden loading doors of the drying chamber are made with a floating hinge, closing the door door at four points using screws.
The door seal is a heat-resistant 3-strip profile. supplied drying chambers Control system equipped with drying procedure, semi-automatic fully automated (computer-based), S control of fuel supply, boiler operation, blinds, ventilation curtains, etc.
proposed wooden drying chambers manufactured both in a state of rest and in a transitional version. The transitional version allows the customer to organize the most efficient continuous technological process and increase the productivity of drying chambers due to more rational use loading and unloading time compared to blindness.
Loading wood into wooden drying chamber produced by standard wheels. Depending on the load capacity of the chamber, transportation of strings can be longitudinal or transverse. When drying wide untreated wood, excluding the cross-tip of the wood, the pedestal is equipped with a block-type clamping mechanism.
In this case, the force on the upper types of beams is equal to the force on the lower types of lumber. In numerical terms, this force is equal to the force of the fund's weight.
Heating system.
Modular drying chambers and wooden complexes produced by Termotech operate on thermal energy obtained from the combustion of wood waste in the heat generators of our industrial or stationary gas boilers. Water heated to 95°C by a pump is provided through a supply pipe to the side walls wooden drying chamber radiators, after passing through which it enters the boiler at a temperature of 75 ° C.
Useful water registers are one-way two-way bimetallic pipe heaters (steel bolts with aluminum plates). It refers to the drying chamber of a specific boiler acting on the loaf (chips, leftovers, stove - 70 ... 100 vol.%) in a mixture of wood waste (30%).
When a large number of chips (100%) of solid matter is provided with a boiler funnel - relying on sawdust feeding a screw mixer or carburetor of mechanical load, which allows heating of wood products each fraction (slabs, shavings, shavings, bark). In case of insufficient wood waste we can fill the supplied heat source directly to the burners, gas ovens or liquid fuel stoves.
For more efficient and stable operation of the boiler, a fan is installed in the turbine, and an ejector is installed in the chimney flues.
Air exchange system, fans, brackets.
For heat exchange between water registers and internal air wooden drying chamber Installed centrifugal fan, Electrical engine which is installed outside Drying chamber for drying wood.
The use of rotary fans made it possible to reduce energy consumption for ventilation in wooden drying chambers produced by TERMOTECH by 1.7 times compared to manufacturers of similar products. Drying chambers. Such effective results were achieved thanks to the rational redistribution of power when installing the fan. Incorrect high pressure was reduced, resulting in increased fan efficiency.
In addition, blood pressure was reduced in cubic dependence, and increase power - squared. With aerodynamic calculation wooden drying chamber The greatest losses occur when the ventilation system is vented.
The loss of fan motor power is directly proportional to the cubic speed of the drying agent. Therefore, further optimization was carried out from the condition: The speed of the drying agent next to the sawdust storage should be between 1 and 1.5 m/s. Based on quality conditions, the same speed is adjusted by CNIIMOD for drying wood under mild and normal conditions.
Because the domestic industry does not produce specialized fans for Drying chambers (high performance, low pressure) - all fan wheels are of their own shape.
Fan wheels are statically and dynamically balanced. In wooden drying chambers with a wood load of up to 12 m ³ The fan wheels are mounted directly on the motor shaft.
Fan for wooden drying chambers with a wood volume of more than 12 m ³, carried out through bearings and pulleys. The fan bearing bearing is the most heavily loaded device in the dryer chamber.
For greater reliability, we use FAG, the company is the world's leading carrier (Germany) of the BND series with FAG spherical bearings. These bearings have a labyrinth seal, grease nipple during Maintenance and are centers that can withstand heavy loads, as originally developed for crushing and grinding machines, roller drives for presses and wind turbines.
The most optimal transverse extrusion of the chimney and temperature conditions inside drying dry baked lumber It comes with screens and external blinds. This design allows easy access to inspection and maintenance of the rotating fan and registers. To exchange air with the atmosphere in Ljubljana wooden drying chamber Aluminum inserts and exhaust valves are installed.
Fences, wall insulation.
Corps of all Drying chambers have an optimal calculated for middle zone thermal insulation, a layer of solid mineral wool board that does not absorb moisture and has a high degree of fire resistance.
All steel elements that prevent corrosion in the drying chamber are protected by a corrosion-resistant coating and a waterproof coating. When shipped In regions with different climatic conditions, it is possible to build a thickness that provides the necessary thermal insulation.
How to make a wooden drying chamber
In accordance with the technical task of the customer, there are technological possibilities for the production of monolithic polyurethane foam insulation from closed enclosures wood dryingFists, or a combination of thermal insulation consisting of rigid hydrophobic mineral wool (water absorption coefficient by volume - 1.5%), TIS mats - TIB TU 2123-299-89 and polyurethane.
Polyurethane foam has the best insulating properties, the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient (W 0.019-0.28 / M º K), low weight (40-60 kg / m³), high adhesive strength and corrosion protection.
The warranty period for the insulation of aluminum polyurethane foam sandwich panels is 30 years. ( Detailed description and comparative characteristics of rigid polyurethane foam and mineral wool, see here.) Internal walls wooden drying chamber made of aluminum sheet or steel with heat-resistant coating.
Outer envelope drying chamber walls made of galvanized, corrugated film 0.8 mm thick. Places where dew is likely to occur ( inner surface doors, intake and exhaust valves) are made of aluminum.
Thermal treatment of wood.
At the request of the client for the production of dry wood from 0, 1, 2, 3 quality categories, wooden drying chambers they are done universal humidification, conditioning and steam system - development and production by TERMOTEH.
The diversity of the system is achieved by generating dry entropic steam and increasing the moisture content, i.e., creating the necessary and sufficient conditions for high-quality hardness and drying of wood, as well as thick conifers.
The processing device must remove the internal tension in the wood when the wood is already dry to ensure the stability of the workpiece geometry after processing in woodworking machines. This is a concept, a tutorial. Very often, the storage conditions for carpentry products after sawing wood are violated, for example: lack of sunscreen for protection from the sun, uneven air flow of the chimney with natural air circulation, loading one drying chamber into several packages with different sawing periods (sometimes important - months).
Therefore, there is an uneven distribution of moisture throughout the volume of one plate and the volume of the foundation. This leads to tension and inappropriate drying conditions. Avoid rejection with moisture compensation, which is achieved by conditioning the wood treatment at the beginning of drying. For the solid beech process, a steam process is necessary to create a uniform color palette for wood of different ages. The color intensity is proportional to the duration of the steam.
In any case, when heat treating wood, temperature acts as a catalyst (fast) in the process of uniform redistribution of moisture through the material (moisture transfer), and the high humidity of the desiccant slows down the drying process (stops the removal of moisture), moisturizes overdried wooden parts.
The duration of moistening depends on the thickness and type of wood. Woodworking recommendations for woodworking is “wood drying technology”, which is equipped with drying chambers for our products. CAM "Module C1", "C2-Module" includes the entire thermocouple drying program. In the absence of a water supply network, the humidification system, air conditioning system and water vapor can work in an unnecessary mode, an unnecessary tank with a consumer inside wooden drying chamber, whose volume is sufficient to complete the entire drying cycle.
In the event of an emergency in the event of a fire disaster, this same humidity should be used by a conventional fire extinguishing system wooden drying chamber in accordance with PPB-01-93 “Fire Safety Rules in the Russian Federation”.
If the client has available premises that are outdated Drying chambers for drying wood we are ready to provide technical solutions and equip necessary equipment for their conversion or modernization of drying chambers.
Convective drying chambers for wood
The presence of drying equipment for drying wood and lumber, as a rule, is one of the main attributes of modern woodworking production.
Board dryer: creating and using a drying chamber
Convection-type drying chambers have found wide application both in Russia and abroad. Convective wood drying technology makes it possible to obtain high-quality lumber with the required moisture content. Modern drying chambers are equipped with automation that allows you to control and monitor the drying process remotely.
Negotsiant-engineering company supplies drying chambers for wood Russian production.
The proximity of production, the introduction of the latest technologies and well-functioning service make it possible to provide our Customers with inexpensive and high-quality drying equipment. We implement both small (with small loading volume) drying chambers and large projects for various industries.
Features and advantages of drying chambers
Automatic control and monitoring of the wood drying process
Minimum delivery, installation and commissioning times for drying chambers
The design of the drying chambers is made of aluminum and stainless steel elements
The ventilation and heating system is equipped with reversible fans made in Germany
The walls of the drying chamber building are insulated with Finnish mineral wool with basalt fiber
Inspection door as standard
Sales and service of drying chambers
We supply, install and commission drying chambers.
We provide warranty and service.
Drying chambers are made to order at the request of the Customer
Loading volume from 45 m
We offer comprehensive solutions organizing a wood drying area using boiler equipment and wood waste recycling equipment.
The cost of drying chambers is lower than competitive ones.
Technical characteristics of drying chambers
Optional
Supervision of installation and commissioning works
A specialist arrives to carry out installation supervision work, takes measurements of the foundations in accordance with the documentation provided in advance, and then begins assembling the drying chamber with the customer’s team.
Upon completion of assembly, the specialist puts the drying chamber into operation and trains the customer’s personnel.
Catalog drying chambers for wood
A detailed description of the design of a convective wood drying chamber can be downloaded here
Photos of completed projects for the installation of drying complexes
The drying mode depends on the type of wood and the thickness of the lumber. To prevent the boards from cracking or warping during drying, they are pre-steamed, for which wet steam is supplied to the chamber.
First, they are heated for 1-2 hours at a temperature of 50° C.
DIY lumber drying chamber
After steaming, increase the temperature to 60 ° C, then repeat the steaming and, if necessary, steam up to three times. At correct mode drying, the wood does not undergo much deformation.
Rice.
6. Scheme of drying methods:
a - periodic air-steam dryer, b - electric dryer operating on high-frequency currents; 1 - air heaters, 2 - supply channels, 3 - pipes for steam release, 4 - exhaust pipes, 5 - special cart (track), 6 - damper, 7 - movable electrode, 8 - fixed electrode
Soft woods are dried at a temperature of 40-75° C, hard wood - at 35-55° C.
The drying temperature of lumber should not exceed 80° C, since at higher temperatures the structure changes surface layers wood, i.e., the material is, as it were, hardened. Such material is difficult to process with cutting tools.
At the beginning of drying, the air should have relatively high humidity and low temperature.
The higher the moisture content of the wood, the greater the amount of moisture the air introduced into the chamber must contain to avoid cracking of the wood. Then, as the material dries, the air temperature is increased and the humidity is reduced to a minimum.
For drying softwood and hardwood lumber different sizes In most factories, in model shops, periodic steam-air chambers with stimulating reverse circulation are used.
Unloaded lumber from drying (dried at a temperature of 60-70 ° C to a humidity of 10-12%) before putting it into production is kept in the conditions of the production workshop for 2-3 days to free the wood from internal and surface stresses (normalization) obtained in result of drying.
In addition to steam-air drying chambers, there are gas chambers.
In a batch drying gas chamber, smokeless gas is used to evaporate moisture, obtained in the furnace by burning raw wood waste, which is pumped through flues onto stacks of lumber using an axial high-pressure fan. The chamber design includes a steam humidifying device.
In the woodworking industry, batch gas dryers are used, operating on natural gas, with a furnace in which the gas temperature reaches 1000-1300 ° C, but after circulation in the chamber the mixture is supplied at a temperature of about 100 ° C.
The working gas mixture is smokeless. Lumber dried in properly operating gas chambers does not darken. Each of the drying chambers can accommodate 4 stacks of boards, each with a volume of 1.8X2.6X6.5 mm. Gas chambers used for drying of softwood lumber.
Lumber can be dried using the high-speed method in electric dryers using high-frequency currents. Drying using high-frequency currents lasts only a few hours, and the material dries evenly, without cracking or warping.
Wood waste during such drying is significantly less than in steam and gas dryers, and amounts to no more than 5%.
Features of heating semiconductors and dielectrics, which include wood, in high-frequency electric field consist in the fact that heat is released directly in the heated material and the temperature of the material can increase over a short period of time.
For example, a wet board can be heated to 100°C in 3 minutes. The wood is simultaneously heated throughout its entire thickness. The current power absorbed by the material can be adjusted by selecting and changing the electric field parameters.
The following should not be considered a DIY tutorial. Homemade chambers for drying wood exist and there are quite a lot of them. But at the same time, the vast majority of them are far from perfect.
Drying chambers are calculated and designed, which means this must be done by specialists.
Even if you decide to make a drying chamber “with your own hands,” then at least, before building, order a project from specialists or find and study literature on the design of drying chambers.
Woodworking, its cost, and the quality of products depend on the quality of drying of lumber. In turn, high-quality chamber drying of wood depends not only on adherence to technology (correct laying of lumber, adherence to regimes), but also on the design of the drying chamber.
I hope that the information provided here will allow you to avoid mistakes when purchasing or help improve the convective wood drying chambers available in your production.
Next, we consider the design of a wood drying chamber with an overhead fan arrangement (vertical-transverse circulation of the drying agent), since in modern convective chambers for drying wood this is the most common aerodynamic design.
All calculations are given for easy-drying wood species: pine, spruce, cedar, and so on.
Lumber with a thickness of 50 millimeters is taken as conditional.
Convective drying chamber for wood
For uniform drying of wood along the height of the stack, the distance from the wall of the drying chamber to the stack of lumber must be at least a quarter of the height of the stack (see Fig.
figure), otherwise it is necessary to ensure a narrowing of the air channel from top to bottom.
Diagram of a convective drying chamber (sectional view)
With two or more stacks, the distance between them (in Figure A) should be at least 15 - 20 centimeters.
For uniform drying of lumber along the length of the stack (with a board length of 6 meters), drying chambers, as a rule, must have at least three fans.
Wood drying kilns must be designed to allow air to flow only through the stack of lumber.
Loose passages reduce the air flow through the stack (therefore drying the wood more slowly) and make it uneven, which increases the unevenness of the moisture content of the dried lumber.
The free passage of air on the sides, top, and bottom of the stack must be blocked by curtains, thresholds, etc.
It is recommended to install the side curtains in such a way that they overlap the stack by 10 - 15 centimeters from the ends, this will reduce cracking of the ends. It is advisable to make the top curtains movable, since drying the wood leads to a decrease in the height of the lumber stack.
Air circulation during chamber drying of wood
Circulation is carried out using fans, the air passes across the stack. The fan compartment is separated from the stacks of lumber by a false ceiling and has a baffle designed to prevent “short circuits” in the air flow. It is very important!
In some homemade drying chambers, this partition is missing, as a result, a significant part of the air is uselessly chasing over the false ceiling, without getting into the stack.
Single-stack drying chambers for lumber allow the use of non-reversible fans; for two or more stacks, the fans must be reversible.
Requirements for fans for drying chambers
If the fan electric motor is located inside the drying chamber, it must be made in a moisture-proof design and have a heat resistance class of “H” (up to 100 degrees); an electric motor that does not meet these requirements must be moved outside the chamber.
In homemade drying chambers, class F electric motors are often used. As a result, they fail at intervals of 3 to 6 months.
If the fan performance is insufficient, chamber drying of wood proceeds more slowly, and the unevenness of humidity across the width of the stack increases.
Heating of convective drying chambers.
The heat required to evaporate moisture from the wood is supplied by heaters, their power is determined at the rate of 3 - 4 kW per cubic meter of lumber.
To ensure this, the heat removal surface of the heaters should be about 3.5 square meters per cube of lumber. It is not recommended to use electric heaters: drying wood will have a higher cost. Probably, for many, the best option would be to use a boiler that runs on wood waste.
It is desirable that the air entering convective drying chambers during ventilation should pass through heaters before entering the stack.
Therefore, if there is a reverse fan, the heaters are usually arranged in two rows, as shown in the figure. If the heaters are located in one row, and the fans are reversible, then the heaters should be located between the ventilation ducts of the pressure side and the vacuum side.
This drying chamber design is characterized by slightly higher heat losses, but lower manufacturing costs.
Chamber drying of wood requires less thermal energy if convective drying chambers are equipped with recuperators (heat exchangers). In the recuperator, heat exchange occurs between the incoming and outgoing air during ventilation. The use of a recuperator, in addition to saving thermal energy, reduces temperature fluctuations during ventilation, therefore, the drying of lumber will be of better quality.
Unfortunately, convective drying chambers for wood with recuperators are practically not produced in Russia.
Thermal insulation of drying chambers for wood.
Total temperature difference is 115 degrees. Consequently, if thermal insulation is poor, part of the money you pay for heat will go to heating the street.
In addition, if the thermal insulation is poor, moisture will condense on the walls, floor and ceiling of the drying chamber, which will not allow maintaining the air humidity set according to the regime at the initial stages of wood drying.
If possible, drying chambers should be installed indoors; this will reduce the possibility of lumber cracking during unloading due to sudden temperature changes. But even when installed indoors, good thermal insulation is required.
Tightness of drying chambers for wood.
At the initial stages, chamber drying of wood is carried out at high humidity, so moist air should be removed if and only when it is required by the regime.
If the airtightness is poor, it is impossible to maintain the specified air humidity. Using a humidification system does not help: even if steam is supplied, a significant part of it falls out as condensation due to contact with cold air.
Therefore: wood drying chambers must be sealed, have no cracks, and sealing gaskets must be installed on the gates. Homemade drying chambers especially often have poor sealing.
In industrial chambers, deterioration of tightness usually occurs due to loose closing of the gate due to careless adjustment during installation.
Supply and exhaust ventilation during chamber drying
Typically, the design of drying chambers provides supply and exhaust ventilation due to overpressure on the pressure side and reduced pressure on the vacuum side, additional fans are not used.
The required total cross-sectional area of the air ducts for such ventilation is approximately determined at the rate of 40 square meters. centimeters per cubic meter of standard lumber on the pressure side and the same amount on the vacuum side. The air ducts are equipped with curtains that open and close as needed.
To reduce the formation of condensation in air ducts, their thermal insulation is desirable.
Humidification system for chamber drying of wood
There is an opinion that drying of easily drying wood species can be carried out without moisture treatment.
Indeed, when drying freshly sawn wood, the air humidity required by the regime is gained in 6 - 12 hours. However, if chamber drying is carried out on wood that has lain for 2-3 days after sawing, then this time can extend for a day or more, which is no longer desirable.
Drying chambers for lumber - choosing equipment for drying wood
Thus, a humidification system for chamber drying of lumber is still needed. For humidification, use steam or finely sprayed water (droplets hang in the air) using nozzles. A very common mistake in homemade drying chambers is that when spraying, water gets on the thermometer and air humidity sensor. As a result, the automation receives false information about climate parameters.
It is unacceptable.
About the requirements for gaskets.
Gaskets are not a design element of the drying chamber and, of course, are not supplied with it, but without complying with the requirements for them high-quality drying wood is impossible, so let’s talk briefly about gaskets.
The gaskets must be made of dry lumber and have strictly the same thickness. The thickness of the gaskets with a total stack width of up to 4.5 meters should be at least 25 millimeters; with a larger number of stacks, it is recommended to increase the thickness to 30 - 35 millimeters.
If the thickness of the gaskets is insufficient, chamber drying of wood proceeds more slowly, and the unevenness of humidity across the width of the stack increases.
The width of the gaskets is 40 - 50 millimeters.
The surfaces of the gaskets in contact with the lumber must be planed.
High-quality drying of wood largely depends on correct installation lumber, so be sure to study this issue.
For various wood products (furniture, musical instruments, parquet, etc.), their own drying temperature is used and a certain humidity is maintained.
Wood, despite the development of modern technologies, still remains an indispensable material in many sectors of the economy. It surrounds us everywhere, it is used in the production of furniture, in the construction industry, even in aviation it still finds its application. Of course, various polymers, synthetic resins, steels and alloys of various metals are actively replacing wood even in its traditional niches. But complete refusal is impossible. Therefore, there will always be a need to prepare wood for use in various branches of human activity, and to dry it. We will try to give answers to questions related to such necessary equipment as a lumber dryer, made and debugged with our own hands.
Why do you need to dry wood?
Drying lumber is extremely necessary process, without which wood simply cannot be used.
The quality of wood depends on proper drying.
If you have your own business related to the production of wood products, then you cannot do without your own drying chamber. But first, let's try to understand why this dryer is needed, why we need to dry lumber. It's all about the natural moisture content of any tree. If you make a product from undried wood, it will dry out over time, crack, and all you have to do is throw it away. In addition, properly dried wood improves its performance, becomes more durable, resistant to environmental influences and is less susceptible to destructive mold. In the old days, to prepare the forest for use, it was dried not even for years, but for decades. Often, logs prepared for grandchildren were laid under a special canopy. Imagine, not even for children, but for grandchildren.
Fortunately for us, modern technologies allow us to significantly speed up this process. And although this process is still quite long and complicated, it still cannot be compared with traditional technologies, and the result is even better.
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Moisture content of lumber
It is important to understand that a tree is a living organism and its cells contain moisture while it is alive. In general, the moisture content of a freshly cut tree is 30 percent or higher. If we want to use wood, then we need to get rid of excess moisture. What kind of moisture is excess? It depends on what we are going to use the board or log prepared for production for. If the tree is used for the manufacture of products where the highest precision of assembly is required (for example, for the production musical instruments, sports equipment, parquet and some types of furniture), then its humidity should be reduced to 6-8 percent. If you are simply preparing lumber for long-distance transportation, for example, for export, then it is enough to reduce the humidity to 20 percent.
The same wood is also suitable for some types of buildings, for the production of containers and other goods. Other products require wood moisture content between these two extremes. Floor boards, casing, and cladding boards can have a moisture content within 15 percent. And window frames, doors, staircase elements or decorative items will require wood with a moisture content of 8 to 15 percent.
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Making a dryer with your own hands
Let us finally consider the construction of the drying chamber itself. To begin with, you need, in addition to the basic building materials for making the chamber room, to purchase a heating device, a fan and good insulation.
Drying chamber diagram.
You can use a ready-made room for drying construction, or you can build it specially. It is advisable that the ceiling and one wall be constructed of reinforced concrete, while the remaining walls are made of wood, which later need to be covered with thermal insulation materials: first we cover them with foam plastic slabs, cover them with clapboards and then cover everything with sheets of foil. The next step is to install some kind of heating device, for example, a heating radiator, in which the water should be heated to 65-90 degrees. Since continuity of heating is necessary, it is better to immediately make the heating system autonomous, with its own stove and pump for constant circulation of the coolant. A fan is also absolutely necessary in the drying chamber, which, by dispersing the air throughout the room, should ensure uniform heating of the entire drying space and the stacked wood.
You need to think about the installation issue in advance wood material for drying, how the wood will be brought into it, whether it will lie in the middle of the chamber or on special shelves, etc. Good options To load the wood, use a trolley on rails or a forklift. Make sure you have instruments for recording humidity and temperature in the drying chamber; without them, effective control over its operation is impossible.
Diagram of air temperature and wood humidity in the drying chamber.
During construction, consider some more nuances. The temperature in the drying chamber should not fluctuate sharply; make sure that it changes smoothly. Otherwise, you risk destroying all the wood reserves stored for drying. It may crack and warp. It is worth remembering about fire safety, because you are dealing with heating devices and large supplies of dry wood. To do this, keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Of course, some of the above can be replaced with analogues available in the house; in particular, a water heating radiator can be replaced with electric heating devices, even an electric stove with a pair of burners turned on. Just remind you again about fire safety, be careful. The walls of the dryer can be insulated not only with polystyrene foam, but also with other suitable materials, up to the same wood shavings, and foil can be replaced by penofol, which is quite capable of reflecting thermal radiation back into the camera.
The main thing during construction is to create suitable conditions inside the chamber, and what material or technology you used is not critical. In such home drying, lumber will dry for about 1-2 weeks.
Friends!
Those who deal with wood, process it and use it in any way are forced to deal with the problem of drying it. Drying wood is always relevant and pays off, because “wet” wood is much cheaper, and dry, ready-made wood is very expensive. It is necessary to remove excess moisture from the wood so that the process of uneven evaporation of water and juices does not occur, which is associated with the heterogeneity of the wood structure along the longitudinal and transverse fibers. But damp wood is unsuitable for serious processing, much less for construction, otherwise it will deform, crack, warp, and “lead.” How can you make a wood dryer with your own hands?
How to make a wood dryer with your own hands at home or in the country
If space permits, then it roughly looks like this:
- First, we free up space in the kitchen near the stove or electric stove, fireplace, etc. You need to carefully calculate and measure how everything will function and look.
- Partitions are installed from old doors and window frames, and other available materials; for tightness, everything needs to be adjusted and sealed. The size can be, for example, 2x2 or 3x3, depending on capabilities and needs.
- Of course, you need to leave the entrance doors and windows, and keep them tightly closed during drying so that there are no unnecessary drafts or simply excessive air movement. Otherwise, this may lead to a less predictable drying process, loss of control over the process and loss of quality of the output wood.
- The fenced-off area must be covered with insulation, all cracks must be sealed, plugged, caulked, etc. That is, to seal the space of the future dryer as much as possible to enclose the space and improve the quality of drying.
- Because near a stove or heating electrical appliance heat, then, if necessary, it is better to cover it with bricks, which will accumulate heat and release it into a closed room. If the air does not circulate actively enough, a fan should be installed.
- If you plan to dry a lot of wood or finished products made from it, then you need to build strong metal shelves. It is better to secure it with anchors so that it can be loaded with serious weight.
- To prevent the workpieces from bending, you need to fasten the edges of the material with pins. If the length of the wood is large, then several pairs of pins (3-4) are used. Of course, it is better to use wood of the same species, thickness, size and weight, otherwise drying will be very uneven. It is imperative that the material for drying should be laid out with thin strips, bars, spacers for better ventilation. You need to carefully monitor the uniformity of temperature and air flow, then drying will proceed more smoothly and the quality of the output material will be higher. Moreover, it is more profitable to build several small dryers than one large one.
Do-it-yourself wood dryer, as a separate structure
- First, a frame is constructed from aluminum profile, it will not rust, is lightweight and durable.
- Then it also needs to be sheathed with aluminum sheets, and thermal insulation 10-15 cm thick must be fixed on top. This insulation must be fire-resistant, strong and flexible. Roofing felt should be laid on the floor and sawdust should be poured on top.
- Next, you need to ensure the tightness of the building and seal all possible exit routes for heated air. The tightness of the structure is of great importance for high-quality drying.
- The boards intended for drying should be laid out in narrow (1-1.5 m) stacks and spacers made of bars should be placed between the rows and boards. And the height of the stack can correspond to the height of the room.
- Drying can be done using, for example, fan heaters, which should be installed across the air flow. Or choose another drying tool that suits your individual needs and capabilities.
A simple effective way of tubeless infrared drying of wood from 1 board
If you don’t want to build a dryer yourself or you don’t have the opportunity to do this, then you can use a ready-made solution. 
There is a relatively recently used method of drying wood using infrared radiation. The process itself is as follows: the wood is heated with infrared rays using a tubeless cassette dryer. What is the design of such a dryer? It consists of several thermoactive cassettes 1.5 mm thick. The cassettes are stacked in a stack of wood prepared for drying, alternating with spacer bars. That is, the coolant is already among the lumber intended for drying. Therefore, there is no need for a separate heat source, ventilation, maintaining precise parameters, or complex electronics and automation. The drying is controlled by a thermostat, which sets the required temperature for individual layers of the stack. For more optimal performance drying design, the stack is covered with a material with a reflective layer so that the condensate drains outside the stack. It is important that the process can take place both outdoors (preferably under a canopy to avoid possible precipitation) and indoors.
The advantages of this type of drying are
- ease of maintenance,
- equipment mobility,
- high rates (8% humidity can be achieved).
- high quality of the final material (no warping or internal stress),
- speed (from 3 to 7 days),
- variability, i.e. You can dry individual boards, or even just one, or entire large stacks.
You can watch a video about this technology here:
Drying wood from scrap materials. FlexiHIT.
Drying lumber in a tubeless cassette dryer
So, if you have a constant need for dry wood, then you can build a dryer, it’s not that difficult. Or buy a ready-made one and enjoy the finished dry lumber, which can be used to make various useful and interesting products.
