Proper pruning of ornamental shrubs in the autumn

Shrub care includes one of the important elements - pruning. This is enough hard work, requiring knowledge of agricultural technology of the corresponding tree species or berry bush. Of course, when pruning, they give the shrub desired shape, remove broken or diseased branches, but this is not its main goal. In shrubs, if they are not cut in time, the yield decreases over time, the quality of the fruits deteriorates, the frequency of fruiting changes, and winter hardiness decreases.

When is the best time to prune shrubs?

The period of time from the end of January to the beginning of April is considered traditional for pruning. The timing of its implementation depends on the type of vegetation and weather, which has a rather significant impact on the condition of plants. Since weather conditions cannot be accurately predicted, it is also impossible to determine a specific date when spring pruning should begin. IN different years the time of this operation is shifted by one and a half, or even two weeks.

Shrub pruning tools

Pruning fruit bushes is carried out using the following tools: garden saws(with special sharpening for pruning trees), secateurs, delimbers. The secret of a working tool is simple, you must always make sure that the nut is tightened, the spring is lubricated, and the cutting edge is sharpened (only on one side). After use, wipe the tool with a soft dry cloth. The saw or pruner must be sharp. Only such a tool makes a smooth, even cut. The smoother the cut, the faster the “wound” heals on the tree after the “surgical intervention”. Watch the location of the secateurs. The blade must be placed towards the part of the branch that will remain on the bush. The wound is smeared with garden pitch if its diameter is 2 or more centimeters. If you cut out a large shoot, divide it into parts, it will be easier for you to remove it from the bush, and you will not damage the small twigs and buds.

Types of pruning shrubs

When pruning, a gardener can pursue various goals. Accordingly, there are different types of pruning.

• Formative. Helps to create a crown of the required density and silhouette of the tree. Thanks to it, a properly formed skeletal part acquires resistance to stress. Formative pruning in February makes regrowth more intense, and in March-April it slows down the growth process.
• Regulatory. It is necessary to maintain the formed crown, helps to maintain good illumination of the branches, and prevents the skeletal part from being overloaded with young shoots. Such pruning is relevant in February-April and August-September.
• Anti-aging. Allows the old tree to renew itself as it stimulates the growth of new branches. If the annual growth of shoots is 10-15 cm, you need to shorten the branches to awaken adnexal and dormant buds. This should be done in early autumn, late winter and spring.
• Recovery. This measure allows plants affected by various reasons to regain the possibility of development, flowering and fruiting.
• Sanitary. If there are dry, diseased, broken or affected branches on the plant, they must be removed. You can do this year-round, but not on frosty days. After pruning diseased shoots, it is necessary to disinfect the instrument with alcohol. When making sanitary pruning, it is necessary to take into account the size and age of the tree. Very intensive work can lead to thickening of the crown.

A simple scheme for pruning fruit bushes

There are a number of rules that will help harmlessly cut shrubs:

1. Give more light to the bush. Shoots need enough sunlight, so you need to ensure that it gets inside the bushes. Shrub with the age of 4 years should not have more than six shoots. It is important to monitor this, to prevent growth.
2. Work from the base of the bush. Five-year-old shoots must be cut off, otherwise they will not bear fruit well. Remove lateral growths of shrubs.
3. Removing such branches contributes to a better clarification of the bush. Very often, lateral growths become a hindrance to sunlight.
4. Do not leave weak branches. The ability to bear fruit is minimal, they will become an obstacle to sunlight.
5. It is undesirable to remove the tops of the shoots. The tops are left due to the fact that buds form on them, which will bring the crop in the future.

• The presence of thick kidneys is a sign of the appearance of a tick;
• The presence of green tops - poor frost tolerance;
• The presence of twisted leaves is a sign of infection with anthracosis.

Beginners need to be more careful when cleaning fruit-bearing shrubs and prune every year. This will prevent the death of the plant.

Features of pruning some berry bushes

pruning berry bushes in the spring it is carried out in order to thin out and renew plants, maintain their correct shape and enhance fruiting. However, each crop should be trimmed differently.

1. Currant black. In blackcurrant seedlings, in the 1st year, all shoots are shortened by 2-4 buds. In the next 5 years, they annually cut out the root growth, leaving only 3-4 powerful branches, until a bush of 15-20 shoots is formed. The tops of these shoots are removed to stimulate tillering. Then every year the shoots are thinned out, but at the same time, depleted branches older than 6 years are also removed. Cuts are made flush with the soil so that there are no stumps. At the 10-12th year, the bush is recommended to be planted.
2. Currant white and red. Cutting out the basal shoots from the bushes of white and red currants, every year they leave 2 of the most promising ones. Moreover, they are shortened up to half, so that tillering is more active. From the 10th year (since the branches of white and red currants remain fertile up to 9 years), they begin to remove, in addition to excess root shoots, 10-year-old shoots that bear fruit. A well-formed bush should have about 20 branches.
3. Gooseberry. In the 1st year, annual growths of 2-8 buds are cut off from gooseberries. In the 2nd year, annual growths are shortened to half. In the 3rd and 4th year, all fresh root shoots are removed, with the exception of 3-5 powerful shoots, in which only the tops are cut. From the 5th year, start removing depleted 5-year-old branches along with excess root shoots. The formation of a bush ends when 15-20 branches are typed in it.
4. Raspberries. After winter, the tops of frozen raspberry shoots are removed to healthy wood. Formative pruning of adult branches is also carried out, shortening their lateral growths in order to enhance tillering and the number of ovaries. In late spring, all shoots growing at the base of the bushes are removed. And then during the summer they continue to remove the root growth so that it does not weaken the fruit-bearing branches, pulling the nutritious juices onto itself.

Trimming ornamental shrubs

Information about cropping rules ornamental shrubs a little, in contrast to the fruit segment. To remove diseased and dead shoots, to restrain excessive crown growth, to ensure lush and long flowering, painstaking and serious pruning work is required. For each variety, their own methods are developed, taking into account the characteristics of the plant. Conventionally, plants are divided into flowering shrubs and decorative deciduous bushes.

Technology for pruning ornamental shrubs

• Before starting work, you should select unnecessary branches, draw a pruning plan and carry it out in stages so as not to remove anything superfluous.
• On thick branches, a cut is made along the fibers, and on the opposite side, in the direction of the cut, a longitudinal notch is made to avoid breaking. This prevents the crease of the cortex and promotes rapid healing of the wound.
• If the cut is large, it is covered with garden pitch. The layer must be at least 5 mm so that the wound does not dry out and the infection does not get there.
• In adults, two-year-old shrubs, thick old branches are cut out, lowering the density of the central part. Thus, you will prolong the youth of the plant, as the branches will be renewed.
• To improve the intensity of growth and the number of flower buds, periodic cutting of branches through one should be done. It will also help form a beautiful, unthickened shrub with high decorative qualities.
• Ornamental hedges are thinned out twice a year: in the spring before the start of sap flow and in the middle of summer, to remove rapidly developing branches and give shape. This prevents the appearance of empty gaps, and contributes to the uniform growth of shoots. For all ornamental shrubs, the rule applies: the more often you cut, the thicker it grows.

Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we suggest that you get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very versatile. Despite the fact that “babies” have always been considered more fashionable, it is worth taking a closer look at the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate a modern interior. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that surprisingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as far back as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began to grow crocuses 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses - one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest varieties of crocuses that bloom in late March and early April.

Shchi from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, fragrant and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. early cabbage it cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.

Looking at the variety of varieties of tomatoes, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. He sometimes confuses even experienced gardeners! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much time and energy to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, coleuses today are one of the most striking garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provence herbs is a “supplier” of delicious pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The mushrooms are lightly fried olive oil and then drizzle with apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than ordinary pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the flavor of each other. Garlic sharpness of wild garlic will saturate both salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

A coniferous tree or shrub on the site is always great, and many conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. Generally, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and traded lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known and even then the methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Make your family happy and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step-by-step recipe!

There are not so many decorative and deciduous favorites among tuberous crops. And the caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, the rumors about the unusual capriciousness of the Caladium never justify. Attention and care allow you to avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious conditions cultivation. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Handsome" and "Valentina". All eggplants have a medium density pulp. In "Almaz" it is greenish, and in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united good germination and excellent yield, but different time. Everyone's skin color and shape is different.

With the advent of spring, it is time to trim the green inhabitants of our gardens: you need to thin out their crowns and shorten the branches. However, gardeners often go to extremes and cut during this period even those plants with pruning, which are better to wait until summer or autumn, such as early flowering shrubs. Therefore, pruning must be approached with knowledge of the matter.

You can learn the basic pruning rules from the article Pruning trees and shrubs, but ornamental trees and shrubs have certain specific care.

Trimming ornamental trees, we, first of all, we strive to give their crowns the appropriate shape and keep it longer . Plants in hedges with a swift so that the foliage is thick and holes do not gape in the crowns. Thanks to the regular use of secateurs, we achieve from fruit trees and berry bushes of especially rich harvest. Decorative shrubs. As well as climbing and container plants, we cut first of all for lush flowering. If the plant has a decorative bark, then with the help of pruning, you can once again emphasize the beauty of young shoots, because over time, the color of the bark of old branches becomes faded.

In addition, pruning is intended maintain the natural shape of the crown of the green inhabitants of the garden and adjust their size . But in any case, it must be clearly understood that a bush that is too large or an already mature tree, even after very strong pruning, will not turn into an attractive dwarf plant! And, of course, do not forget that regular - especially spring pruning plants contributes to a more intensive emergence of new shoots.

The use of a saw and pruner helps to rejuvenate plants, thanks to pruning, they can regain their lost strength. In rare cases, trees and shrubs need to be cut radically, cutting out all the stems at the very base. This method is applicable, but with good shoot formation for hazel or forsythia bushes. In most plants, anti-aging pruning is carried out in stages.

Should be clarified! One year growth this is an increase from last year with numerous vegetative and generative buds. Bark may be lighter than other shoots or drastically different in color.(for example at Derain white).

The cut must be made at an angle so that water does not stagnate on its plane, causing the wood to rot. In addition, the distance between the cut and the kidney located below is important, there is a danger that it will dry out or freeze. If, on the contrary, a stump is formed from it very strongly, where the infection can quickly penetrate.

Pruning ornamental trees.

Some representatives of the green kingdom are becoming more and more picturesque over the years, so they do not need crown correction (for example, magnolia and palmate maple). But many ornamental trees and shrubs, so that they bloom or their crowns do not lose their shape, periodic pruning is necessary.

Ornamental apple tree, e.g. every 2-3 years only needs adjustment pruning . At the same time, old, damaged and thickening branches are removed. Regular strong pruning is necessary only for those trees and shrubs that must maintain a certain shape of the crowns. The same applies to plants whose flowers appear on young, newly formed shoots, for example, to three-lobed almonds. A very strong pruning after flowering contributes to the fact that they have numerous shoots with flower buds this year. Many deciduous trees can withstand such a radical haircut: white locust Umbraculifera and goat willow Pendula , after pruning, they quickly become overgrown with new shoots emerging from the buds on the remaining part of the cut branch.

For small gardens, trees with a spherical crown that can withstand heavy pruning, such as bignoniform catalpa, are suitable Nana . Regular pruning helps keep the tree in check. Such trees tolerate even heavy pruning, almost to the base of the skeletal branches.

Trees with a spherical crown.

Due to the dense crown of a harmonious spherical shape and bright green foliage of Robinia pseudoacacia or white locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) Umbraculifera ideal for planting in a small garden: this tree is unusually good withstanding even very heavy pruning, its crown can be reduced to any size without losing its presentability.

Without pruning, the diameter of the spherical crown of pseudoacacia Umbraculifera over time it can reach 4-5 m. This can be prevented if every 2-3 years completely cut off all branches almost to the base, leaving only short stumps . The best time for this pruning is a frost-free day in early March. Slow growing species such as Ginkgo biloba Mariken pruning is necessary only many years after planting, while only a slight crown correction can be limited. Liquidambar resinous gum ball also has a beautiful spherical crown, which, as a rule, does not need pruning.

Light pruning of white locust can be done at any time of the year . But it's better in early spring. Then the young shoots will quickly hide the ugly places in the crown that have arisen after pruning.

Also cut:

• common ash Fraxinus excelsior,
• white locust Umbraculifera,
• bignoniform catalpa Nana.

Standard shrubs are cut according to the same principle. Three-lobed almonds with delicate pink, as if airy flowers look incredibly elegant. For this plant yearly heavy pruning desirable . If immediately after flowering branches almond shorten the three-bladed tree to 10 cm, then next year long lush-flowering branches are guaranteed to appear on it.

In early spring, cut the standard hibiscus syriac: depending on the size of the crown you want to see, the stems can be shortened, leaving only 2-3 buds. The upper kidney should be directed outward.

Whole-leaved willow Hakuro Nishiki the first time pruned at the end of March. Additionally, branches can also be shortened in May and at the end of June. After each pruning, the tree produces new shoots with beautiful foliage.

Bushy willows are usually pruned in early spring. If you want to admire the flowers, you can wait with pruning until the plant fades.

Globular maple holly is not pruned as much as white locust Umbraculifera or not cut at all. Important: branches are shortened only from August to December, no later than, otherwise the tree will cry.

In grafted stem plants, wild shoots may appear on the rootstock. Her just like root shoots are cut off at the base leaving no stubs.

Plants with a drooping crown.

Standard plants with romantic hanging branches invariably attract the eye. A similar weeping crown shape is found in many trees and shrubs, for example, in goat willow (Salix caprea) Pendula.

This tree is growing fast, so branches shorten every year , leaving stumps about 10 cm long. Trees that have not been pruned for a long time can also be rejuvenated with heavy pruning.

When it comes to grafted trees and shrubs, must be completely removed formed on the supply below the grafting site.

Do not cut:

• forest beech (Fagus sylvatica) Purpurea pendula,
• rough elm (Úlmus glábra) camperdownii,
• warty birch (Betula pendula) youngii,
• white mulberry (Mórus alba) Penaula .

These plants with a drooping crown grow more slowly than their upright relatives. The crowns of the listed trees are formed by themselves and do not need to be adjusted. Is that damaged branches can be cut off at the very base or shortened branches that seem too large or long. The last procedure must be carried out in stages so that the plant does not lose its beautiful appearance.

Decorative apple trees.

While fruit trees are supposed to please first of all with a bountiful harvest, ornamental species are valued primarily for their beautiful appearance. Ornamental apple tree (Malus) is especially popular because of the crown of the compact, bright color of the autumn foliage and even in winter the fruits remaining on the branches. This tree is pruned only when necessary and always in order to preserve the harmonious appearance of the plant. To do this, in early spring, crowns growing inward and crossing, as well as dry and damaged branches, are removed.

To transform a bushy tree into a standard tree, in addition to the above branches, every year lower side branches must be removed , leaving one, the longest, as the center conductor until the desired height is reached. If it is necessary to slow down the growth of an apple tree on a vigorous rootstock, summer pruning is carried out, although then the structure of the plant is less visible.

A real beauty can be called a decorative cherry - sakura, reaching the zenith of flowering in April - May. By the old trees it is enough to confine ourselves to only a weak thinning of the crown . And if decorative apple trees are pruned in early spring, then it is better to cut sakura in summer, when these plants slow down sap flow and the cuts heal faster.

For vertically growing ornamental cherries, e.g. puffed cherries (Prunus serrulata) Amanogawa , there is a place even in small gardens and front gardens. Their crown is good without pruning.

Columnar yews, e.g. berry yew (Táxus baccata) varieties Fastigiata Aurea well tolerates a haircut. However pruning only old plants or in the case when a slender form is preferred, and the columnar crown grows in breadth.

Beautiful without cutting

While some trees and large shrubs have a naturally beautiful crown shape, or acquire it through adjustment, there are group of plants that do not benefit from pruning : many slow growing trees such as magnolia, palmate maple (Acer palmatum) look better with a natural crown shape. Is that they can be slightly thinned out.

Since slow-growing trees and shrubs, on old wood, new shoots no longer appear, each step must be carefully considered, because due to improper pruning beautiful tree can be disfigured for a long time. If there are no pruning skills, it is best to remove branches in early spring when even a beginner can clearly see the structure of the crown of the plant.

Also trimmed:

• palmate maple (Acer palmatum),
• womanizer (Laburnum),
• cersis (Cercis), magnolia (Magnolia),
• corylopsis (Corylopsis),
• witch hazel (Hamamelis),
• wolfberry
• boletus.

Pruning spring flowering shrubs.

In many shrubs, which, like forsythia, bloom in spring, flower buds appear, first of all, on last year's growths. If shrubs are not pruned, they age and the number of new shoots decreases. To stimulate the formation of new shoots, these plants after flowering should be thinned out every year . To do this, separate old branches are cut off at the surface of the soil. In addition, it is necessary to remove or shorten faded branches. Additionally, you can cut off individual side branches directed to the middle of the bush.

Also cut:

• vesicle (Physocarpus),
• blood red currant (Ribes sanguineum),
• deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadélphus),
• forsythia (Forsythia),
• common viburnum (Vibúrnum ópulus),
• kolkwitzia (Kolkwitzia),
• spirea Vangutta (Spiraea x vanhouttei),
• Kerria (Kerria),
• Weigela.

Pruning summer flowering shrubs.

Pruning is carried out in the first place so that they bloom profusely. . In addition, plants due to regular pruning acquire a beautiful compact shape.

Many shrubs, blooming in summer, flower buds are laid on young shoots that appear in spring. A typical example of a buddle. In order for the plant to give as many young shoots with flower buds as possible in spring, the buddley is cut in autumn or early spring.

But in most early flowering plants, such as forsythia, flower buds are laid on last year's growths. If the shrub is cut, like a buddley in early spring, there will be very few flowers. That's why early flowering shrubs pruned immediately after flowering . Then the plants will re-give new shoots, lay good foundation to bloom next year. The only exceptions are shrubs with beautiful fruits, such as callicarpa and European euonymus. Although they bloom in the spring, shortening the branches immediately after flowering will cut off the fruits. Such shrubs should only be rejuvenated once every 5 years, completely removing old branches in late autumn.

In some shrubs, flowers appear on perennial branches. These shrubs include irga And lilac. They don't need to be trimmed regularly. it is enough to thin out the bushes every few years . And pruning is generally contraindicated for dogwood.

When cutting a plant, many gardeners allow the same error:they cut overgrown shrubs with hedge shears only from above, equalizing the bushes at the same height. This, in turn, can lead to plants not blooming at all or losing their attractiveness. As a result, a new root shoot appears and the plant is rejuvenated. The function of the old branch can also be entrusted to a younger lateral process.

To do this, cut the branch above the shoot selected by the side branch. The branch continues to grow, but the young shoot now plays the role of the top. By removing only individual branches, you will help the shrub retain its natural shape, and in winter, even without leaves, it will look beautiful. In general, the more radical the pruning, the more young shoots appear on the shrub. In summer, they also need to be thinned out well, otherwise the bush will soon grow to the same size.

At all strong thickening on grafted shrubs is not permissible . Otherwise, wild shoots from the rootstock will quickly crowd out the cultivated graft.

There are shrubs, such as white and silky derains, which do not differ in the special splendor of flowers or leaf color, but they are the owners of bright branches.

This advantage is especially noticeable in winter. However, only young shoots differ in catchy coloring; after 3-4 years, the color of the bark becomes faded. Therefore, the goal of pruning such shrubs is the formation of new shoots. Plant should be thinned out every year in early spring shortly before shoots appear , cutting off all branches older than three years near the surface of the soil. Running turf bushes can be thinned out throughout the season.

Also cut:

• silky turf (Cornus sericea),
• wolf willow (Salix daphnoides),
• Cockburn raspberries (Rubus cockbur-nianus),
• white derain (Сornus alba)

Beautiful after pruning or without it:

• flowering deren (Cornus florida)
• coase deren (Cornus kousa),
• folded viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) Mariesii,
• fotergilla (Fothergilla),
• controversial turf (Cornus controversa),
• corylopsis (Corylopsis spicata).

In order for the lavender to smell fragrant in full force in the summer, and its bush to have a harmonious appearance, the plant must be cut 2 times a year using hedge shears.

For the first time in spring, when the temperature begins to rise gradually, the tops of the shoots are shortened by a third, giving the bush a semicircular shape.

The second time in the fall, when the inflorescences are already dry. This time, flower stalks are removed along with 2-3 upper pairs of leaves.

Similarly, young plants are pruned in the first year after planting. Then the lavender grows, creating a dense carpet. If the lavender is not cut, then the shoots become woody to the very tips. In this case, the plant will lose its compact shape and will not tolerate stronger spring pruning.

Some gardeners trim the lavender with pruning shears, but it is better to use hedge shears, they make it easier to give the bush a uniform cushion shape. See that the bush has acquired the shape of a hemisphere. Dry branches can be used to flavor the room.

pruning hydrangeas

Depending on the type hydrangeas flower buds are laid at different times of the year, and the care of each specific species depends on this. So, for example, in large-leaved hydrangea, flowers appear on last year's growths. This means that flower buds are laid on them last summer, so the plant cannot be cut in spring.

But in paniculate hydrangea, flowering takes place on young shoots of the current year, so its bushes can be cut quite radically. In the shade-tolerant tree-like hydrangea, spherical inflorescences also appear on annual growths. However, in any case, hydrangeas of all kinds, every 3-4 years, need a thorough anti-aging pruning, then the bushes will always have a beautiful compact shape.

Like every rule has its own exceptions, so here: almost every type of hydrangea has at least one variety, in which flowers are laid differently than in other relatives. Therefore, it is best to learn about the features of each species and variety from specialized reference books, even before buying a new green pet.

G large-leaved ortensia Oshave slightly . In large-leaved hydrangea, pollinated hydrangea and oak-leaved hydrangea, flowers appear on biennial branches. In order for the bushes to grow evenly and acquire a beautiful shape, in the first year after planting they are not cut at all. . Late winter or early spring only dry inflorescences should be removed , carefully cutting them above the first pair of buds, but not below. Otherwise, you will remove already planted flower buds, and the plant will not bloom. And so that young shoots constantly form on hydrangeas, the bush must be thinned out every 3-4 years . To do this, cut off the old branches, which have begun to bloom weakly, flush with the soil surface.

Hydrangea paniculata medium pruning required. Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata) significantly different from other types of hydrangeas, cone-shaped inflorescences. Since its flower buds are formed on annual branches and shoots of the current year, this plant blooms profusely, even if it has suffered from severe frosts. In the spring, during the first three years after planting, all strong skeletal branches should be shortened by a third, weaker by half. In an adult plant remove old branches growing in the middle of the bush, and also cut off annuals with dried inflorescences , up to four kidneys. Young shoots with flower buds appear from them. Without pruning, the bush grows strongly, in which case it will need to be thinned out as soon as possible. Exceptions, for varieties Rgaesoh And Dharuma buds appear on last year's branches (growths), so they are not cut off. Only at the end of summer can you remove the withering of the inflorescence.

Hydrangea frost resistant and abundant flowering. Thanks to its bright white, pom-pom-like inflorescences - balls, it will perfectly fit into both rustic and modern style garden. Most hardy variety hydrangea tree Annabelle , the flowers of which are painted at first in a pale green color, blooming, gradually become white. This, and lesser known varieties Grandiflora And white dome , flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, in early spring it can be without remorse shorten, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil surface. Thanks to such a radical pruning, more inflorescences will appear on the bush, while they will be larger. Young plants should be handled more carefully and pruned more moderately. In May, after the appearance of leaves, the plant is usually no longer pruned . Since these hydrangeas very heavy and large inflorescences, they need support. Tip: shorten part of the stems again in mid-June, then later the shrub will begin to bloom again and this will last until autumn.

Distinguished by time autumn, spring and summer pruning , of which spring is considered the main one. At the same time, for each group of roses, from small flower beds to high climbing ones, there are their own pruning rules.

Most Suitable time for spring pruning of roses, comes in April , namely when the forsythia flowers bloom. As a rule, this means that the threat of hard frosts has already passed and soon the queen of flowers will have new shoots. However, if the rose needs to be thinned out or individual old branches removed, then this can be done in the fall.

Cut branches should not be left in the garden or composted. Then it will be possible to prevent the spread to other plants of pathogenic microbes, fungi that cause black spot and powdery mildew.

shrub roses (repair) single and re-blooming pruned differently. The latter include all modern varieties, park roses, as well as many English roses that bloom magnificently all summer. Early in the spring they need to be thinned out , removing first of all, dry and damaged branches. Shorten the side shoots on the outside of the bush by about 5 buds. This contributes to more abundant flowering.

If desired, you can shorten the shrub in height by one and two thirds of the length. Single-blooming varieties include many old varieties. They bloom profusely on last year's growth. In order for the next year shoots with flower buds to form on the plants, immediately after flowering, such roses should be cut off.

Floribunda, hybrid tea and miniature roses.

First, frozen, dry and damaged branches are removed. , then the stems growing inside the bush, and cut to a healthy tissue. Then 3-5 of the youngest and strongest stems are shortened, taking into account the strength of growth and varietal characteristics of each plant. In roses from the Floribunda and hybrid tea groups, 3-4 lower well-developed buds are left on each stem, more in vigorous varieties. Miniature and ground cover roses are not pruned at all in spring , and in the summer, faded inflorescences are removed, with 1-2 leaves.

Climbing roses.

At remontant climbing roses in spring cut out all the old stems , leaving 5-6 strong annual growths, and if there are few of them, then several biennial ones, and shorten the side branches to 3-5 buds. After pruning, the stems are carefully tied to a support, if possible, directing the stems at the top horizontally or at an angle, which stimulates flowering. In summer withered flowers removed along with 2-3 leaves, after which the roses quickly bloom again.

Single-flowering ramblers, such as varieties Veilchenblau , do not cause much trouble. They bloom along the entire length of the overwintered stems of last year's growth, so pruning is reduced to removing all old stems and shortening side shoots to 20-25 cm.

Standard roses.

When pruning stem roses, it is important to know which group the variety grafted onto the stem belongs to. . If he belongs to hybrid tea, floribunda or shrub roses , a compact form forms mainly straight-growing branches. To give the crown of the standard rose a rounded shape, the scion branches of such plants are shortened to 20-30 cm in early spring.

If the crown standard rose present varietal miniature roses , then they are cut off just as much. Things are different with roses with drooping stems, the so-called weeping or cascading standard roses. They serve as a graft climbing roses, including ramblers, as well as miniature roses with drooping stems. In cascading roses, only too long branches are shortened. However, in order for the rose to remain beautiful and bloom profusely from year to year, it is still necessary to remove branches that are too old from time to time, thereby freeing up space for the formation of young growths.

Important: Before you start cutting the queen of flowers, sharpen your secateurs well. Then the cut will turn out even, and besides, you will spend less time on a haircut.

Plot owners, especially beginners, usually pay a lot of attention to the nutrition and composition of the soil, top dressing and watering. And, alas, they often forget about pruning shrubs. Some even believe that it is not needed at all. However, over time, when the bushes gain strength and grow many additional branches, the understanding comes that pruning is simply necessary.

Often there is not enough knowledge on the features of pruning ornamental shrubs. How to cut, when and how much? There are a huge number of plants, and they are all so different ... At some point, it may seem that you will never master this wisdom. Don’t worry, our issue will help both novice gardeners and experienced home gardeners take a fresh look at the need for crown formation, learn pruning techniques and learn about its intricacies for various kinds plants.

Should shrubs be trimmed?

The answer is unequivocal: not only necessary, even necessary. Pruning greatly affects all the life processes of the shrub. However, the main principle in this matter is to do no harm. And starting work, you should clearly understand what you will cut and why. First of all, this procedure will help to improve the plants - such pruning is called sanitary. Pruning is also necessary to regulate growth, as well as to form fruits.

And there are many ways to achieve the desired result. Intervention in the growth of the crown is simply necessary for the rejuvenation of shrubs. No matter how we maintain the bush in good condition, all plants grow old, their beauty and shape are lost, development slows down.

And if everything is done correctly, it will help to return the former appearance to your favorite variety of lilac, mock orange, spirea ... The aesthetic side is also important in this matter. Cutting the crown will give the plant desired size and the shape of the crown, sometimes very far from natural. This pruning is called topiary art. And the most simple tricks can be mastered by every gardener. Such pruning often needs to be started from the first days of a plant’s life in the garden in order to “accustom” it to a constant haircut, and not shock it, because this can destroy the bush. In the future, they maintain the shape so that the plant retains its “hairstyle”. Otherwise, it will seek to return the natural look. However, after the intervention, this plant will not succeed fully.

Pruning: terms

Cutting, or thinning.

This is the complete removal of a branch or shoot. In shrubs, branches are removed as close as possible to the soil surface or even below its level. Small branches are cut with secateurs, large ones are cut out.

Trimming "for translation".

This technique is used on perennial wood. On the shoot, a suitable branch is chosen - younger and directed in the right direction. The cut is made without stumps.

Cutting or shortening.

When pruning, the length of a branch or shoot is reduced. It is needed to stimulate branching. The stronger the shortening, the more new shoots are then formed. One-year growth is cut off on a kidney directed in the right direction.

How to cut and shape the crown - some subtleties

Pruning any shrub helps to emphasize the dignity, individuality, make it more expressive and neat. Remember the main points.

The shoots of which the bush will consist, in a young plant, appear from the buds located on the basal part of the stem. Therefore, when planting a seedling (it does not matter - one-, two- or three-year-old), the root neck should be deepened by about 5-8 cm.

Most shrubs are strong growing. The height of adult plants is more than 2 m (viburnum), and sometimes even 5 m (irga). And so that they begin to bush, when planting, their shoots are shortened. The longest and most well-developed branches are roughly equal in length with the rest. The broken ones are cut off to the first normal kidney, and the sick and weak ones are cut out completely.

If you see that by the end of the season the shoot has not matured, in the fall it is better to cut it to the mature part of the wood. Otherwise, it will most likely freeze in winter. If in doubt, you can leave the shoot to winter and in the spring cut out the part on which the buds have not blossomed (the dead top).

Saplings of low shrubs (the height of adult specimens is up to 1.5 m) are cut immediately after planting so that only stumps with two or three buds remain from each shoot. In the spring, strong shoots sprouted from them will develop well and help the plant grow the root system faster. If not cut, only a small length and thickness of the shoot will grow from each awakened bud, since the root system of the seedling is not yet sufficiently developed.

Acting appropriately is also important.

Shrubs need to be pruned annually. If you do this from case to case, haphazardly, the crown will thicken greatly. Pests love to settle in this, and diseases will more often affect shrubs.

If the bush is already running, but you don’t want to throw it away, you can try to improve its crown. Of course, in such a situation, many shoots will have to be removed.

It is important to do this not in one year - take pity on the plant and stretch the work for two, but preferably three seasons. And you should not expect excellent results right away, and such pruning will never fully compensate for the shortcomings of care.

In the practice of many gardeners, there is a common mistake - to wait until the plant becomes an adult. And only then do they begin to think about the need to trim it. But, having lost time, it becomes very difficult to form a beautiful crown - changing the shape takes years, and sometimes it is already impossible to do.

Important!

The distance between the buds on the branches and the cut is very important. If cut too close, the buds can stop growing and dry out. If, on the contrary, far from the kidney, you get a stump, which is dangerous for the plant. The optimal distance is 0.5 cm.

Types of pruning shrubs

Early shaping pruning

Basic rules for work

1. During pruning, it is important to follow some rules.
2. Do not leave stumps and cuts split.
3. Remove dry, diseased and broken shoots.
4. When shortening the shoot, make the cut at an angle above the bud or side branch, leaving no stump.
5. Remember: it is better to pinch the shoot in a timely manner than to cut it off later.
6. To stimulate the growth of weak plants, they can be cut shorter, but well-growing, strong and healthy branches do not need to be excessively shortened.
7. It is important to always use only high-quality cutting tools, always sharp and clean.
8. Try to injure the plant as little as possible when pruning. For example, branches thinner than 2 cm in diameter are best cut with a sharp pruner, and thicker ones are cut with a hacksaw.
9. Work with pruners so that it does not touch other shoots.
10. If you need to cut horizontal thick branches, make the first cut from the bottom with a depth of about a quarter of the diameter of the cut shoot. Step back 1-2 cm from the main branch. Make the second cut from above towards the first. You need to cut until the branch breaks off along the fiber. Only with this method of pruning, the fallen off branch will not tear off part of the remaining stump. After that, you should carefully cut the stump.
11. The correct cut (saw) has a smooth surface and even edges, on which scraps of bark should not stick out. Cut as far as possible so that water does not linger on it. Irregularities clean with a garden knife.
12. After trimming and cleaning the irregularities, the sections must be covered with garden pitch.
13. If the cut surface is more than 3 cm in diameter, it is better to use oil paint(construction) - it will protect more reliably.

Form from "childhood"

Such pruning is needed to form a beautiful and well-developed crown with a large number of healthy shoots. More often it is done in nurseries in the first two or three years of a seedling's life. You'll have to take care of it if you've grown it planting material themselves or bought annual seedlings.

When buying, you need to choose healthy plants with a well-developed and better closed root system.

If you want to plant several identical shrubs and form them in a similar way (for example, to create a bosquet, hedge), take seedlings of the same height. It is important that their root necks are approximately the same in thickness and without signs of disease.

In the first year, shrubs planted in a permanent place are allowed to develop freely, without interfering with the growth of their shoots.

How to do shaping pruning

Early shaping pruning is carried out in March or April. It is important to have time to do this before the start of active sap flow in plants.

The bushes are usually cut at a height of 6-9 cm from the root neck (the so-called "stump" pruning). And by autumn, thanks to the awakening of dormant buds located on the abandoned stumps, new shoots will develop. In the early spring of next year, they must also be cut, leaving enough buds so that up to a dozen new branches can grow by autumn. Usually, two to five "eyes" are left on each shoot (depending on the number of growths that form after planting the bush on a stump). The standard form of shrubs, as a rule, acquire by the autumn of the third year.

Some exceptions

• Cotoneaster, caragana and lilac can be cut only once, while four to seven skeletal branches are formed.
• The shoots of chaenomeles, chokeberry, cinquefoil and mahonia in the second year should not be too shortened, as they are able to form a crown on their own.
• Kalina pride, Tatar maple, panicle hydrangea - on the contrary, and in the third year they need to be planted on a stump, as they do not bush well.

Formation of bushes with a free-growing crown

In well-branched ornamental and flowering shrubs all shoots that have completed growth (a bud is formed at the top) should be shortened by a quarter of the length in early spring, combining this with thinning of the crown (if it is thickened). You also need to remember that the shoots should be placed in the crown as evenly as possible.

In ornamental and flowering shrubs with weak tillering, it is necessary to cut off the entire annual growth strongly, leaving about four buds each.

On the shoots of plants with short internodes (shadberry, mock orange, spirea, honeysuckle), increase the number of buds left to 8-10.

The formation of the crown in the form of a ball, trapezoid, pyramid

Annual growths are cut strongly in spring, leaving bases 4-5 cm high. In this case, the contour should be as close as possible to the planned outlines.

After such pruning in the first year, the plants are allowed to form new growths. In the next three to four seasons, shrubs that are subject to early formation are cut according to the existing pattern twice a year. The first time - in the spring, before the buds open, and then - as the shoots grow. When reaching a length of 8-10 cm, they are cut in half.

There are plants that are easier to give a certain shape. For example, hawthorn is good to form in the form of a cone. But from the crowns of brilliant cotoneaster and buckthorn it is more convenient to cut out the outlines of a ball, cylinder or cube.

Important!

Remember, evergreen as well as coniferous shrubs should not be cut before the age of four. Then they are usually sheared twice a year - before flowering (approximately in mid-June) and before the end of shoot growth (in the first decade of August).

Formative pruning

What is shaping pruning

After the initial pruning, they make a shaping one, with the help of which an ordinary bush turns into a decorative one.

To do this, every year a few more are added to the number of already existing branches, more often one or two, but you can also leave the three strongest shoots. A little more attention will have to be paid to shrubs that form a lot of root shoots. These include rowan-leaved fieldfare, white snowberry, offspring derain, alder-leaved irga. It is also necessary to ensure that the bushes do not grow too wide in width, and remove them around the perimeter most root growth. While the plant is young and has a strong growth, it is important to prevent excessive thickening of the crown.

However, it is also not necessary to cut the shoots too much, otherwise this can lead to the formation of a very loose bush. First of all, weak branches coming from the roots are removed. Strong ones are also cut out if they grow very close to others or are directed deep into the bush. You need to leave only those shoots that can later replace any old or diseased branch.

In weakly winter-hardy plants, for example, in some species of weigela, rhododendron, dry shoots may appear over time. They must be removed without tightening, and the cut should be made not over the first healthy kidney, but over the second - it is more reliable. Lodging branches are also periodically removed - they spoil general form. Only in some cases, for example, when the upper shoots froze, and the lodging ones did not suffer (which is often the case with the genome forest), they can be left, lifted and secured with a rope on a support or made under a bush small frame. When the shoots get used to growing in this position, the supports can be removed. This technique will return the bush decorative look.

First cropping group

This group includes plants that do not form powerful replacement shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths appear along the perimeter of the crown. Pruned such shrubs in early spring.

These include:

❖ viburnum (Viburnum),

❖ lilac (Syringa),

❖ elderberry (Sambucus),

❖ barberry (Berberis),

❖ cotoneaster (Cotoneaster),

❖ Potentilla fruticosa (Potentilla fruticosa),

❖ irga (Amelanchier),-

❖ skumpia (Cotinus),

❖ magnolia (Magnolia),

❖ deciduous spindle trees (Euonymus),

❖ wolfberry (Daphne),

❖ hazel (Corylus),

❖ silver sucker (Elaeag-nus commutata),

❖ hawthorn (Crataegus).

These plants generally need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is necessary to form a skeleton consisting of the strongest shoots. To do this, in early spring, when the shrubs are in a state of forced rest, they remove all intersecting, incorrectly located, as well as weak shoots that will spoil the decorative look and thicken the crown.

Pruning of adult bushes of this group can be limited by the removal of shrunken, diseased and damaged shoots. If there is an urgent need, you can cut or shorten live shoots.

This is usually necessary to maintain the overall symmetry of the crown or the decorative appearance of the bush. However, most gardeners believe that there is always a need for pruning even this group of plants. They do not give replacement shoots, but over time they thicken the crown excessively, in addition, its shape is lost.

Second trim group

Plants are pruned in the summer immediately after flowering. Shrubs of this group form replacement shoots. They bloom on last year's growth.

These include: large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), weigela (Weigela), except for the species with variegated leaves, kerria (Kerria), tamarix (Tamarix), stephanandra (Stephanandra), kolkwitzia (Kolkwitzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), forsythia (Forsyth ia), Japanese quince (Chae-nomeles japonica), three-lobed almond (Prunus triloba), early-flowering spireas (Spiraea): Vangutta, Thunberga, sharp-toothed, Nipponskaya, crenate, ashen, oak-leaved.

Shrubs of this group bloom, as a rule, in spring or at the very beginning of summer.

They shorten the shoots on which there were flowers. You can cut the %, leaving only the most strongly developing gain. At the same time, weak and thin branches are also removed. About a third of the old shoots need to be cut regularly and to the base - they are usually already unproductive.

On a note:

Old shoots are darker in color than the rest. Also, they tend to be thicker.

Third cropping group

Prune plants in early spring. Shrubs of this group bloom on the shoots of the current year.

These include: summer-flowering spireas (Bumalda, Japanese, Douglas, loose-leaved, white-flowered, Billyar), David's buddley, paniculate and tree hydrangeas.

Mature shrubs of this group are pruned quite heavily in early spring. They begin to build up strong shoots, on which a large number of flowers will appear in the summer, or abundant flowering will come closer to autumn.

If such pruning is not done, the plants will begin to thicken and partially lose their decorative effect, and many will look unkempt. Without a given procedure, the quality of flowering of adult bushes may suffer.

When pruning, they usually try to remove all last year's shoots to the most well-developed buds located above the old part of the stem (at a height of about 5-7 cm from the ground). After a couple of years, the main lignified branches can become very dense. And if this happens, you need to thin them out to maintain the decorativeness of the bush.

Fourth trim group

Prune plants in early spring and after flowering. This group includes evergreen shrubs that need little pruning.

For example: rhododendrons, mahonia, boxwood.

After winter, dried and broken shoots are cut out from them. It happens that after an unsuccessful wintering, the shoots of mahonia are exposed - do not rush to cut them off (especially since they will bloom soon), wait until the buds wake up. In summer, faded flowers and inflorescences are removed from rhododendrons, and samsulas are cut off only if figures or borders are formed from them.

Haircut in the fall is also needed

Shrubs that form flower buds on growths of the current year bloom from mid-summer to autumn. You can cut them in the fall, while removing the entire upper part of last year's growths at a distance of 10-40 cm from the ground. After that, strong young shoots grow on the bushes, which will bloom. Such pruning can be done annually, or it can be done from time to time, as the crown thickens, the shoots become shallower and the plant loses its decorative effect. If wilted inflorescences look ugly, it is better to cut them off after flowering.

It is important to remember that heavily pruned plants must receive enough nutrition and moisture so that they can painlessly restore their above-ground part. It is useful to mulch the soil around them with compost. So you can cut summer-flowering spireas, Sargent's hydrangea, David's buddley, two-colored lespedets, rowanberry, etc.

We keep in shape

It is very important to preserve the previously set parameters of the shrub crown, its certain shape, typical for this species or created artificially, and also to maintain necessary for the plant illumination of all parts of the crown.

In connection with the local effect of pruning, they try to do it either on a side branch, the growth of which needs to be strengthened, or on a kidney, if growth is to be obtained in this place.

Such pruning is needed annually: both in spring and autumn. To maintain the shape, plants that have already been formed are usually cut off, because the bush grows and loses its decorative effect.

Usually, at the same time, parts of the growth are removed (cut off part of the shoot) of the previous year (spring pruning) or the current one (when pruning in autumn). It is easy to distinguish: the growth of last year, as a rule, is lighter than the long-term shoot.

Fast growing shrubs often require both spring and fall pruning. For example, the broom (and other representatives of the Drokovs) grows quite strongly in width, as a result of which the bush literally falls apart, exposing the base. And if maintenance pruning is not carried out for several years, young shoots will grow, descending from old branches that have had time to coarsen by this time. This will drastically reduce the decorativeness of the shrub. When pruning like this, do not leave old rough wood, try to cut dead branches as low as possible. It is more correct to cut so that a younger growth is a continuation of the old shoot. The shortening of the current year's shoots will also stimulate the formation of new growths.

If you need to remove a branch, cut it close to the base of the current year's growth (next to the new shoot).

Anti-aging pruning

Boost the bloom with pruning!

In order for the flowering to be more abundant, and on shrubs that are not only decorative, but also useful (irga, viburnum, barberry, chokeberry), more fruits ripen, pruning stimulates the growth of new branches on already quite old specimens.

This type of pruning is more often used if the growth of the plant becomes too small and does not exceed 7 cm.

Such pruning consists in shortening the branches, which activates the growth of dormant or adnexal buds. It is usually held from February to April and from August to September.

It is important to know about small distinctive features shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year (Japanese spirea, tree and panicle hydrangeas) and the past (large-leaved hydrangea, lilac, forsythia, three-lobed luiseania, spring spirea, viburnum, hawthorn, capricole honeysuckle).

There are also plants that bloom in the spring on the shoots of last year, and in the summer on the shoots of the current year: for example, weigela, kerria. In older bushes of this type, pruning will stimulate the growth of a fairly large number of side branches, which will make flowering more lush next season.

Shoots should be shortened by 1/3 from the top, cut off to well-developed buds (above them) immediately after flowering. In addition, branches that grow a lot of lateral growth every year will bloom more profusely and produce more fruit if one of the three oldest in the bush is cut. Do this in the spring about once every two years. This technique also avoids excessive thickening of plants.

Some features of anti-aging pruning

By pruning, you can also adjust the size of the flowers - a strong one leads to a small number of them, but they will be large. And after a weak pruning, many small flowers will appear. Some shrubs, for example, mock orange or action, with annual pruning significantly lose the decorative effect of the crown. Therefore, it is better not to shorten all their shoots, but selectively.

Pruned to about three or four buds, from which strong young replacement shoots are then formed for flowering next year. The rest of the branches are left untouched. Only when the shrinkage of flowers becomes noticeable (usually this happens after a few years), you need to cut off all the shoots on the bush.

Plants can be rejuvenated

Shrubs age over time. However, different types it happens at different speeds. For example, in the willow-leaved spirea, colored lilac, rowan-leaved fieldfare, Dahurian and wrinkled rosehips, the stems live for six years. The longevity of the shoots of the vesicle is measured by seven to eight years. Potentilla shrub and medium and crenate spirea have different stems with different life spans, which range from six to fourteen years.

With anti-aging pruning, half of the old branches are removed annually in the spring. Hard pruning is also allowed, when the bush is cut off completely. So you can do with viburnum. It should be borne in mind that the species that give root shoots can be cut to the ground (for example, viburnum or shadberry). But the species that sprout from the lower part of the branches should not be cut to the base, but leaving parts of the stems 15-20 cm high above the ground.

The problem may be with shrub maples - it can be impossible to rejuvenate them, since they do not give growth at all, but the crown needs to be shaped.

When to do anti-aging pruning

It is better to carry out rejuvenating pruning in most shrubs in early spring. The signal to it is the shrinking of the shoots or they form weak ones.

It is necessary to cut off over the branches located closer to the base of the shoot, or in the place where the growth of the rejuvenated branch was most powerful.

Sometimes spend and weak rejuvenation. In this case, the size of the removed part of the shoot is not much different from pinching, and the effect of such pruning is usually low.

Radical rejuvenation

It is necessary when not only strong growths, but also weak short branches can no longer form on the bush.

All shoots are cut off at ground level in early spring. And if the shrub is formed on a rootstock (grafted plants), they are cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the place of vaccination. As a result, renewal buds will give new growth. And since the volume of the root system has remained the same, there will be quite a lot of shoots.

Then you need to choose the strongest and most well-located of them, and delete the rest.

By the way, you should not hurry with this: it is better to divide the work into two or even three stages, cutting out about a third of the shoots in one year.

In this case, in one copy there will be branches of two or three different ages.

How to cut

It is important not to rush to “demolish the heads”, but first carefully examine the bush. When working, try to shorten each shoot to a strong kidney. The cut must be made at a slight angle and at the very “eye”. This is necessary so that a stump does not form. It is important to strive to ensure that the cut surface is perfectly flat. Bark burrs indicate sloppy work and the wrong tool. If you are going to remove lateral shoots that extend from the skeletal branches, for example, growing deep into the bush (thickening), cut strictly along the annular influx located at the base of the shoot, and also without leaving stumps. The fact is that these stumps will dry out at best, and at worst they can begin to rot. And this is " opened door» for various infections.

Let us remind you once again: cuts of all branches with a diameter of 2 cm or more must be treated with garden pitch.

Pruning shrubs with beautiful leaves

This group includes species and forms of ornamental shrubs with original foliage: for example, the white-edged form of white svidina, golden forms of black elderberry and Bumapda spirea, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, skumpia, vesicle, variegated forms. They need to be pruned annually in early spring, and quite strongly. This is also done in order to cause the active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect.

Snowberry (Symphoricarpos), cotoneaster (Cotoneaster) and barberry (Berberis) do not require special pruning, although they tolerate shearing well and are often used in hedges.

With a free planting, these shrubs (all shoots) are usually shortened to 15-20 cm. In the future, the bushes are thinned out as necessary, cutting out the thickening and oldest branches completely or only their tops to a strong lateral branch. Of the coppice shoots, only those that will go to replace the old stems are left. Sanitary and anti-aging pruning is done in the same way as with most other shrubs. Semi-shrubs, for example, ornamental raspberries - hawthorn (Rubus crataegifolius), beautiful (R. deliciosus), fragrant (R. odoratus) - are pruned in the same way as their fruit relatives - obsolete biennial branches are annually removed.

Plants on a stem or Stem bushes

In ornamental horticulture, depending on the size of the trunk (the distance from the root collar to the first branch), there are bole (height - up to 0.25 m), semi-bolt (0.25-0.75 m), bole (0.75-1 .2 m), low stem (i.2-i.5m) and high (more than 1.5 m).

The stem is inherent in trees, to a lesser extent in shrubs. But it is the cultivation of shrubs on the stem that emphasizes all their beauty and originality. Usually such artificial forms are planted on the lawn singly (tapeworms).

By the way!

You can enhance the growth of shrubs on low trunks. To do this, choose a powerful shoot in the crown, growing from an upward bud, lift and fix it on a support. Then, with a pinch, they begin to form a second "umbrella". And the first pinching is done in the spring at the right height, the emerging side shoots are cut as needed.

It is quite common to grow weeping forms of plants on the trunk. This can be found in deciduous shrubs: amorpha, euonymus, privet, hawthorn, elderberry, deren, willow, caragana (yellow acacia), hazel, holly, broom, robinia, boxwood, skumpia, forsythia, genome-forest. Sometimes plants are grown on boles that give shoots, or are undersized. Look great in this form chokeberry ( chokeberry), grafted on mountain ash; creeping euonymus - in B. European; almonds (three-lobed, louiseania) - on cherry plum, plum, almond or bird cherry; ivy - on aralia; lilac - on privet or ash; chaenomeles - on a pear, mountain ash or quince.

Often they are grafted onto a trunk to show the beauty and grace of individual flowers of a plant, for example, standard roses. But for their good flowering, proper pruning is important.

Supportive pruning of the rose "tree"

In the first year after grafting in the spring, having removed the shelter, the stock is cut 1 cm above the bud. The cut is cleaned and smeared. When the shoot of a varietal rose grows to the fifth leaf, the top must be pinched.

After that, side branches will begin to grow. They are also pinched after the third or fifth leaf, until a beautiful crown is formed.

By the way!

Getting a grafted standard rose can be somewhat accelerated. To do this, on the highest young shoots of wild rose (without digging it up), it is necessary to vaccinate in the spring. And in the fall, the plant is dug up and planted separately for growing.

The standard rose must be tied to a support, but do this not near the graft, but slightly lower so that it does not get damaged. By the way, two supports are often installed - one against the other.

It is important throughout the season to remove the shoots both on the stem and extending from the ground (from the roots), as well as to pluck the emerging buds. Then all the food will be spent on the formation of a beautiful crown with strong shoots.

In the second and subsequent years, the plant can fully bloom. And the buds are removed only on diseased and weak specimens.

And after the first flowering, the plant can be pruned. At the same time, the shoots are shortened to the first strong buds that have started to grow. At the same time, non-flowering shoots and branches growing inside the crown are cut out from the middle of the crown.

By autumn, faded flowers are no longer removed on the rose, since after that the seed setting begins, which inhibits the awakening of new buds.

At this time, it is important for the rose to prepare for the winter, and not to build up new shoots, as happens if wilted flowers are cut off.

Pruning tea rose and floribunda rose

They are pruned immediately after removing the shelter (around March), when the buds are still sleeping or they have already pecked slightly.

In the first year, all strong shoots need to be shortened by 5-6 buds - they will be 15-20 cm long. At the end of the season (approximately in November), all flowering shoots are shortened and non-flowering ones are cut off, as well as those that have not had time to lignify by winter. In the second year in April, all dry, diseased, weak and thickening shoots are removed. The young growth is shortened by five to six buds, and the remaining lateral branches are cut to 10-15 cm (about three to four buds remain on the stumps). Hybrid tea roses are usually given the shape of a bouquet, and floribunda groups are more often cut into a hemisphere.

Good climbing roses!

To get a spherical or weeping rose crown shape on a trunk, climbing or ground cover species are used for grafting, giving many young branches per season.

They are formed like shrubs from the first pruning group. They bloom in June-July on lateral shoots that appear on last year's stems. If the crown is thick enough, in September all last year's shoots are cut off, leaving the growth of the current year. If there are few branches, two or three biennial stems are left, cutting them into two or three buds.

Standard roses can be cut more compactly so that the crown looks like an oval or a ball. This is often done with large-flowered varieties. If you plant such a plant, the beauty of your garden or its area is guaranteed!

Types and rules for pruning standard roses

Cut off in the spring for three to six buds (leave a shoot 10-15 cm long). Cutting shorter is dangerous, as very powerful shoots are formed that distort the crown. Usually hybrid tea, polyanthus, miniature and floribunda roses are cut this way. These are roses that bloom on the shoots of the current year.

Only 10-15 cm shorten the ends of the shoots. This is done with park and climbing groups of roses, because they bloom on the shoots of last year. On the eve, all broken and damaged shoots, as well as dried and thickened ones, are removed. In the crown, three to six of the strongest and youngest are left, preferably unbranched and diverging in different directions.

If after winter the stem of the rose comes out very frozen, cut it very short. Moreover, if the vaccination site was not affected, it’s not scary: the plant will soon recover, giving new shoots.

On a note

• A wet wrap with sphagnum moss will help the kidneys wake up faster. They are surrounded by places where the kidneys should wake up (usually at the base of the shoots), and fixed with lutrasil.
• Remember: in the crown, especially the old one, dead stumps should not accumulate. Every spring, you need to carefully cut everything and cover it with garden pitch.
• For the formation of the crown of a rose, it is very important in which direction the bud is directed, on which the cut is made. Usually, the upward direction grows more actively - it is more often preferred to leave it at the cut. But if a variety with a very spreading crown and sparse shoots is grafted onto a stem, they are cut to a bud directed inside the crown.

Man-made "clouds"over flower beds

The standard form, which is given to plants for several years with the help of a haircut, can be considered one of the most striking methods of decorating a garden.

And every year there are more and more admirers of plants on the stem - garden owners are pleased to create something perfect with their own hands. And this is understandable, because the slender crowns of various shapes above the flower beds are fascinating.

The elegance and solemnity brought to the garden by standard plants make it orderly and cozy.

These plants do not take up much space, and they can easily be "fit" into the landscape of the smallest garden. And it is not difficult to grow and form such plants, it is only important to master some knowledge.

Such plants in ceramic tubs are very beautiful. And in this case, the range of cultivated plants is expanding due to heat-loving ones.

For the winter, garden species on the trunk must be insulated both the crown and the root system or stored in an unheated room. And heat-loving bring into the house.

Fruit bushes on trunk

Standard plants literally burst into our gardens. Many gardeners give them preference, trying to create a miracle on their site. And more and more often, among ornamental shrubs or right on the lawn, fruit bushes are grown, which are beautiful in bloom and, moreover, delight with delicious berries. They fit very well into the landscape of the garden, harmonize with flower beds, because they are grown on a trunk.

Creating a standard plant, despite the apparent complexity of its appearance, is quite simple. And the most affordable option is to grow your own root stem. To do this, in July, a stalk with five or six "eyes" is cut out from the middle part of the shoots of golden or red currant and planted in open ground. And they do it so that only the apical bud remains at the soil level. For the winter, it should be covered with dry leaves so that the stalk does not suffer from frost, which can happen when the soil is not yet covered with snow. In the spring of the next year after planting, the apical bud will start to grow. Your task is to grow one shoot, so in the process of its growth it will be necessary to remove all lateral processes.

Usually, by the end of summer, the height of the shoot reaches 80-100 cm. And in order for it to be strong and healthy, it is important to water the plant and be sure to feed it. For fertilizing at the beginning of summer, nitrogen fertilizers are used, and at the end - a mixture of phosphorus and potash (according to the instructions).

In the spring of next year, the grown shoot is cut off at a height of about 75-80 cm from the ground, leaving only three or four upper buds for further growth. All the rest must be removed to the very base of the escape. Over the summer, three or four shoots are formed from the abandoned buds, which will have time to grow up to 35-45 cm, sometimes a little more.

The following year, all shoots must be shortened, leaving also three or four buds on each of them at the base. Thus, in three seasons it is possible to form a full-fledged standard plant, which will begin to bear fruit in the third year.

Gooseberry "tree"

It will take a little more time to form a gooseberry stem. When choosing varieties for this, it is better to give preference to large-fruited forms that are resistant to powdery mildew: for example, Date or Warsaw - with strong shoots growing straight.

If such a variety is already growing in the garden, in the spring you need to dig in a branch of the mother bush, and in the fall, separate the resulting layering and transplant it to a permanent place.

Then you need to repeat all the steps that you did with golden or red currants.

The height of the trunk is usually 60-100 centimeters.

The crown of such bushes is usually formed by a ball or a hemisphere.

By the way!

If you make a currant or gooseberry bole very low, up to 15 cm, you get a so-called improved bush. He has all the trunks come out almost from one "point".

Such a plant is more graceful than a natural bush with a wide base, in which the stems grow directly from the ground at some distance from each other. They take care of the bush on the “leg”, as a standard form, of which, in essence, it is a modification.

Other ways to get a stem

You can get a standard plant not only from an annual seedling grown from a single-bud cutting. Ordinary seedlings are also used. Choose the strongest and smoothest shoot. All buds in the root zone are removed from him and lateral shoots that have managed to form by this time at a height of about 40-50 cm.

The rest of the kidneys are given the opportunity to develop, and from them they subsequently form the crown of the bush.

A good trunk can be grown if an opaque tube (not too dense) is put on the shoot of the seedling. Its size should be equal to the height of the future trunk. It is important to deepen its lower part into the soil. But such a tube should not replace the support. It is necessary to install supports for any method of formation.

Rules for pruning standard fruit bushes

Do not allow the crown of the stem plant to grow strongly: an excessively large one will look unsightly, and the stem can break. An overgrown crown does not need to be afraid to cut.

Do not be afraid to remove flowers - pruning will stimulate branching in any case, and new flower stalks will definitely be laid over time.

Be sure to remove the lateral shoots that appear just below the crown (on the trunk). Otherwise, increasing in size, they will take a lot of nutrients to the detriment of the development of the main beautiful part of the plant, and the decorative effect will suffer.

Periodically cut off the young shoots that appear on the trunk in the summer at its base. Sometimes shoots, and in fairly large quantities, may also appear from the ground.

If the plant still has a weak bole, you need to give it the opportunity to finally form - tie it to a support. The main thing at the same time is to make the loop free, otherwise it can damage the trunk, which is still very tender at a young age.

You can renew such a plant by cardinal pruning (by two or three buds) of all shoots in early spring before the bush awakens.

Shearing topiary plants

Pink "balls" willow Hakuro Nishiki

Whole-leaved willow Hakuro Nishiki (Salix integra Hakuro Nishiki) is a very plastic plant. And if properly formed, it can grow not only as a bush, but also as a tree, and in this case you can do without vaccination .. Such plants look especially interesting if you plant them with a tapeworm.

I advise you to do this already at the end of this spring, since such a formation will take more than one year.

First you need to root the willow stalk. Fortunately, its shoots take root easily. They are planted in moist soil, covered with coarse sand from above with a layer of 2-3 cm (the place should be shaded), covered with a jar.

In the first year apical cutting let it grow freely if it is taken from the middle, leave on it the strongest and most even of the shoots (in the future it will be a stem) and it is also allowed to grow freely. In the next year or two, you need to remove all side shoots to form a bole. And only then, at the chosen height, pinch their top. From this moment, the formation of the crown begins. The lateral shoots that appear at the top need to be pinched two or three times per season so that the “cap” becomes thicker.

In an adult plant in the spring, in the middle of the crown, old shoots are cut out, last year's ones are shortened, and do not forget

get rid of thickening small twigs. In summer (no later than July), the young growth is shortened.

With such a haircut, the plant will always look neat and show off in a pink “outfit” twice a year.

Willow Hakuro Nishiki, formed into three stems, looks even more attractive, especially when viewed from different points of the garden.

Curly pruning of shrubs

Curly cutting shrubs is not just a way to diversify and decorate the landscape of the garden. It turns out that the skill of creating topiary, both simple and complex, is one of the most ancient arts.

In fact, from any shrub, using special techniques, you can create a figurine of an animal, some kind of fairy-tale character, a sphere or other geometric figure, a cup or plate, embody an architectural masterpiece in greenery, or even cut out a whole picture.

It is generally accepted that topiary plants are an attribute of regular and architectural gardens with strict lines, geometrically consistent and restrained colors, often shades of green. However, topiary art is not only suitable for English gardens. Such figures will successfully fit into any garden with any design, the main thing is to choose the right style, shape, as well as the way they are executed.

A simple haircut

To form a topiary, you need to choose only the strongest, healthiest shrub with a dense crown and uniform branching.

At the first stage of such a haircut, the plant is given only an approximate outline of the future shape. To do this, cut the main contours with large garden scissors, outlining only the main lines and removing all unnecessary. Only then do they proceed to a more thorough trimming of the crown, remove all the small branches that have broken out of the main lines.

At the second stage, you need to arm yourself with smaller garden shears, which are more often used for curly haircuts. Once a shape similar to the final result is achieved, the plant is allowed to gain vegetative mass, which will take about a year. During this time, young shoots will slowly fill the voids that have formed and create the necessary Foundation for the final formation of the figure.

Then, in the middle of summer, the haircut is repeated using small garden shears.

After in August, it remains only to make the final adjustment in order to get perfectly even edges and walls of the figure.

This pruning resembles polishing almost finished product.

More complex figures

They are more difficult to form. In this work, you will need a wire frame. It will help to set the growth contours and facilitate the cutting process itself, since it will be a guideline and with its help you can outline the lines. A wire frame is installed on young plants, the dimensions of which more closely match the parameters of the workpiece.

At the first stage, the main lines are formed, for which all the outlines of the bush are adjusted along the contours of the wire frame. For these purposes, they do not always use pruning, sometimes they simply direct individual branches, tying them in the direction necessary to form the figure. Usually, only those tops that are strongly knocked out of the shape you need are sheared. More specific pruning is carried out as the plant grows - then all its outlines are again adjusted using small garden shears.

Complex figures usually have to be adjusted several times a season as new branches grow and break out of the contours of the green sculpture.

Yew, BOXWOOD, HOLLY…

Most often, green sculptures are created on the basis of small-leaved, as well as densely branched plants that tolerate shearing without problems: boxwood, yew, holly, bushy form, privet, barberry.

Forming - step by step process creating the desired figure. And it will require not only special skills, but also patience, endurance and attentiveness.

Shrub plants can be given virtually any desired shape, but for beginners in this business, it is better to start with the simplest geometric shapes- pyramid, cylinder, cube or sphere. Only after mastering the basic techniques of cutting and bringing the skills to perfection, you can begin to create more complex forms.

When cutting, use only clean and sharp tools.

Before working around the plant, it is advisable to lay out a film or burlap, which can then be easily collected and discarded along with the scraps.

Hedges

Building hedges

Cutting a hedge is needed not only to get the desired shape, but also to increase the growth of side shoots, which makes the hedge thicker.

You need to start cutting in the first year after planting. shrubs autumn planting pruned in the spring, and if planted in the spring, their shoots should be shortened in early spring the next year.

If poorly formed seedlings with an open root system are planted on the site, their shoots should be cut in half. And those that were formed back in the nursery (with a closed root system) are shortened by about a third.

blooming fence

Quite often they create in the garden real masterpiece- blooming hedge. Almost all shrubs are suitable for her, which can be combined to your liking. But more often, fast-growing and competitive plants are used - yellow acacia, weigela, hydrangea, deutsia, viburnum buldenezh and pride, lilac, shrub cinquefoil, blood-red and golden currants, as well as forsythia, mock orange, spirea and winged euonymus.

A hedge of summer-blooming shrubs, such as David's buddleia, needs to be pruned hard, every spring, and it will give abundant flowering, and the flowers will be larger than usual.

Shrubs that bloom in spring should be thinned out about once every 3-4 years immediately after flowering so that the intensity of flower formation does not decrease.

If a flowering hedge is very bare, in spring or autumn it is cut radically (to old wood) - then such shrubs will respond with the formation of new shoots. At the same time, the strongest of the young shoots are left and shortened in the spring of next year, which will enhance their branching. Correction and width of the "wall" is also allowed. For this purpose, all branches that strongly protrude beyond the perimeter of the previously formed shape must be cut at the base.

When to cut?

A hedge of deciduous plants is cut for the first time in the second year after planting, and then annually. Young bushes should be pruned once a year. In the next 3-4 years in June-July, the annual growth is shortened by a third or even by half. Since this stimulates the formation of new shoots, the crown is formed without holes and holes.

Mature shrubs are sheared two to three times a year, usually in spring, then in mid-summer and autumn. It is important to remember that every year the height of the haircut must be increased by 5-6 cm until the hedge reaches the required size.

Fast growing plants need multiple shearings during the season (from May to October inclusive).

Less often, about twice a year (in the middle of summer and autumn), slow-growing species are sheared: for example, barberry, common cotoneaster, snowberry.

· Sea buckthorn, white and blood red derain, goof, common and Amur barberry, vesicle, irga, common hazel, Hungarian and common lilac, mock orange, viburnum proud.

· For the formation of a hedge with a height of 1.2-2 m, a dog rose, a Russian broom, a brilliant cotoneaster, spirea, a shrub caragana are suitable. barberry, snowberry, etc. *

You can divide the garden into zones with the help of bosquets (smooth “walls” that form an “office” in the garden) 1-1.2 m high. For their formation, you should use almonds, cinquefoil, undersized barberries, spireas and mock oranges.

Features of cutting hedges and "walls"

The depth of cutting should not be immediately large, it is increased as the growth and age of the plants in the hedge increase.

In young plants, usually a third of the annual growth is cut off in June-July, but with age, when the natural growth of shoots slowly fades and needs to be stimulated, you can shorten them by half. Such pruning will not only improve branching, but also the formation of larger leaves, which is very important for older plants.

As the hedge reaches the required height, the haircut can be carried out more deeply, up to leaving only small stumps 2-3 cm high from annual growths.

All vertically directed shoots must be cut until the lateral branches that form after shortening them reach the desired height. In the future, it remains only to periodically adjust the general appearance.

As soon as the hedge reaches a predetermined height, it is necessary to carry out a constant apical haircut - to maintain shape. This is a mandatory technique, since even a small regrowth of shoots can greatly spoil the shape of both a rectangular and a trapezoid hedge. You can cut less often if the triangular hedge and unevenly growing shoots are not so noticeable.

Important!

In the climate of the middle zone best form hedges - conical or trapezoidal (when viewed in profile). If the bottom is wider and the top is narrower, the hedge is better illuminated by the sun, which means that the bottom of the hedge is not exposed, and the plants are bushing more actively.

Possible hedge problems

Shearing the "walls" of deciduous plants does not end only with pruning the tops of the shoots. If you do only this, after a few years the shrubs will loosen, the shoots will sag, the hedge will lose its former decorative effect.

The “wall” needs to be cut more deeply from the sides, so that, if you look in profile, the height is much higher than the width, and does not approach a banal square from year to year.

Remember: the wrong haircut will lead to poor lighting conditions, the bottom of the hedge will be exposed, many dry branches will appear, and the density of each plant will decrease.

I strongly recommend shortening the shoots of a neglected hedge to half the height and width. In some cases, cutting “on a stump” is even allowed (pictured), after which you will have to form everything all over again.

How to upgrade plants

A rejuvenating haircut is usually needed not only for neglected hedges, but also for those that have lost their decorative and protective (this applies to plants with thorns, for example, hawthorn or wild rose) properties. Such a haircut should be done in the spring and preferably in two stages: in the first year, cut one side, shortening the branches at a distance of 10-12 cm from the trunks, and cut the second, as usual. The next year, repeat the same operation on the other side.

If it is required to rejuvenate the hedge as quickly as possible, in one season they trim both sides at once.

Some rules for trimming a hedge

Try to make the cut oblique and over the most well-developed healthy bud, directed towards the periphery of the bush. This is especially important when forming a young hedge.

Shearing hedges from evergreen (not coniferous) plants is in many ways similar to the formation of "walls" from flowering shrubs. The first time they are sheared in the spring and not earlier than a year after planting or transplanting. At one time, you need to cut off no more than a third of the green mass. If you want to make the crown thicker, at the end of the season, shorten the shoots that have grown this year, repeating the previously formed crown shape. After shearing, never leave bare segments of branches that do not have buds or leaves at the top - they are likely to dry out.

After pruning, all plants (flowering, deciduous, evergreen) need to create conditions for quick recovery: water abundantly, fertilize, and also mulch the soil.

For cutting green hedges, it is better to use a manual pruner or scissors. They cause less damage to plants and allow you to more beautifully form a hedge. The only negative is that it takes more time to work. It is much faster to perform it with an electric tool. However, immediately after the haircut, you can see how the leaves are soaked and cuts are made in not quite the right places. However, all edges are smooth.

Beginners can be advised to cut on stretched cords or wire frames. It is desirable to paint landmarks in some bright, noticeable color. Then it will be easier to work.

With regular trimmings of the hedge that maintain the shape, each subsequent cut should always be made at least a little, but higher than the previous one. If each time you cut the shoots at the same level, the hedge may be too bare. She will not have a "green frame" of repeatedly branching young branches covered with foliage.

Stephanandra tender shoots

Stephanandra has a medium crown size. It blooms in summer, but the flowers are inconspicuous, so the plant is valued for the decorative autumn coloring of the leaves, as well as for the bright shoots that effectively decorate the garden in winter. Suitable for hedges, as it actively builds up shoots. IN middle lane it is desirable to form a low curb that can winter under the snow. In general, stephanander does not differ in good winter hardiness and in cooler regions it can freeze to the level of snow. But do not be afraid: the plant usually quickly restores the above-ground mass (in 40-50 days). However, it is both possible and necessary to speed up the regeneration process. After waiting a while to make sure that the buds do not bloom, it is necessary to cut all the shoots to green, live buds, and process the cut points. If you plant stephanandra among shrubs, you can not think about pruning in the first few years.

Starting from about the fourth year of life in the garden, the crown of the bush must be thinned out, for which every fourth adult stem is removed in the spring.

In summer, it is desirable to prune all faded shoots, cutting them to the strongest side branches, trying to keep as natural as possible, that is, the spreading shape of the crown of the bush.

Older plants, which are eight or more years old, form a mass of thin interlacing and short shoots, strongly thickening the crown. There is only one way out - to cut off all the shoots to the ground, rejuvenating the bush. Such pruning can be carried out both in winter and in early spring a week or two before bud break. And the next year, around the middle of summer, when the young shoots grow up, pinch their tips.

Diervilla

It is desirable for this plant to release more space, as it forms many root offspring. And as a result - lush curtains, which, by the way, turn red in autumn.

In limited conditions, it will be necessary to restrain the growth of diervilla honeysuckle, cutting the bush along the perimeter in the spring, and at the same time making sanitary pruning. If the soil is nutritious, the growth of new shoots will be too active, so you need to cut the extra ones in the summer.

Pruning subshrubs

Shearing is needed for semi-shrubs

Most semi-shrubs also need to be trimmed regularly to avoid thickening their crowns and losing their decorative effect.

A few days before the plants completely fade, remove all flower stalks and shorten the leafy parts of the bushes by about 5-6 cm. This procedure sometimes prolongs flowering or stimulates re-blooming. If the semi-shrubs do not grow in a group, but separately, when pruning, it is better to give their crowns a semicircular shape - this way they will look more attractive, especially before and after flowering.

If you decide to prune in the spring, it is better to do it more drastically and preferably before the growth of young shoots begins. At the same time, last year's stems are shortened at a height of 15-17 cm.

Significant pruning, as a rule, is subjected to lavender, santolina, medicinal sage, hyssop, lofant, etc. Their pruning is aimed at preserving compact form bushes. By the way, in suitable conditions (soil composition, moisture), these semi-shrubs winter well in the middle lane.

If you tighten the pruning of lavender and sage, the regrown young shoots will not have time to mature before the first autumn frosts and may partially suffer, or even freeze completely.

More radical pruning is also necessary for semi-shrubs of the late flowering period, for example, alpine aster. It is cut quite low above the ground, after which the soil is mulched with compost, which will insulate and be top dressing next season.

pruning hydrangeas

Before cutting, you need to know exactly what kind of hydrangea (Hydrangea) you have - paniculate, tree-like or large-leaved. Each has its own characteristics.

By the way!

Pruning is possible because plants have the ability to regenerate lost parts. Even if it is made where there is neither a side branch nor a visible bud, shoots appear from sleeping buds. However, remember that as you approach the base of the branch, the effect of pruning gradually fades.

Panicled hydrangea (N. panicuiata)

Pruning a paniculate hydrangea will not be difficult if you remember that it blooms on the shoots of the current season.

You can prune in autumn, winter or spring. There is no need to do this annually.

Cannot be cut in summer: flower buds have already formed at the ends of new shoots, and the hydrangea is preparing to bloom. I like to do it in early spring. I remove small, weak, rubbing and intersecting branches. I shorten the strong ones, following the same principle as in the case of the tree-like one: if there are many annual shoots, each individual inflorescence will turn out to be smaller.

Panicled hydrangea on a bole

From the paniculate hydrangea, you can form a standard form. To do this, all the shoots are cut out from a young bush in the spring, leaving the most powerful one. It is driven out up to 70-100 cm, regularly removing all side shoots and shoots. The crown is usually formed spherically. Such a “tree” is very impressive, but you need to remember: panicled hydrangea shoots are very brittle, and the inflorescences form a huge “cap” and can break off without additional support.

In general, the fragility of shoots threatens not only standard "trees", but also bushes, especially overgrown and uncircumcised. For the winter, I cut off the inflorescences of all hydrangeas, and tie the shoots. A weak solution of potassium permanganate will help to strengthen the strength of the shoots. Several times during the summer I water them hydrangeas.

You need to be very careful about pruning garden hydrangeas. Heavy pruning often leads to poor flowering of the plant. And paniculate hydrangea, on the contrary, is cut to two to six buds. If you cut not so much, small inflorescences will form.

Pruning tree hydrangea

Tree hydrangea (H. arborescens), for example, the most common Annabelle variety, blooms on the shoots of the current year. This means that in autumn you can shorten all shoots at a height of 20-25 cm from the ground. And in early spring, cut off about a third of the old shoots at soil level.

Firstly, this is necessary so that the bush is not thickened, and secondly, as a result there will be somewhat fewer inflorescences, but each of them will form much larger. And thirdly, so that the bush was a beautiful spherical shape, and the inflorescences grew on strong stems and “looked” up. Otherwise, heavy "caps" will grow, hanging at the ends of long, arcuately curved "rods". The only period when you can not cut the tree hydrangea is late spring. At this time, the plant is preparing to bloom.

We form a macrophylla. Work calendar

There are subtleties in pruning large-leaved hydrangea (N. macrophylla). Many experts do not consider it necessary to cut it at all, they only remove old, damaged and weakened branches, and at any time.

First year

After planting in autumn or early spring, the main growths are shortened by a strong bud (or two), weak ones are cut out and the root system is well mulched with humus.

October November.

At the base of the crown during the growing season, several strong growths and a large number of side branches on the main shoots formed - only the weakest or breaking symmetry are cut.

Second year

June. Flowers are formed on last year's growths. After flowering, new strong shoots form from the base. July. After flowering, you need to cut off all generative shoots for new powerful growths that have grown below (shorten to them).

Third and subsequent years

July. Immediately after flowering, all faded shoots are removed to healthy growths located below, and all weak branches are cut out completely. If the bush becomes very thickened, a quarter of all old shoots are also cut out to the base. Elena POTAPOVA, Mytishchi, Moscow Region

In hydrangea, which blooms on last year's shoots, inflorescences with three or four nearest leaves are cut off at the end of July.

The fact is that in August she begins to lay flower buds of the next year, which ripen during August - October. If you cut such a hydrangea in late autumn or do it too radically, there will be no flowering next year.

New method of pruning macrophylls: flowering is better!

Remontant large-leaved hydrangeas bloom not only from the apical buds of shoots (the first wave of flowering), but also on lateral perennial shoots, as well as annuals that appear below ground level. They bloom later. It is the property to repeatedly or repeatedly bloom that is called remontance.

A new method of pruning large-leaved remontant hydrangeas is aimed at making them bloom well in cold climates. Already in July, the branches of the bush without apical flower buds are cut very short, leaving one lateral bud on each branch (as close to the ground as possible). Such kidneys can easily be covered for the winter and saved. This pruning stimulates the laying of a flower bud, which will have time to ripen by next spring and bloom. In addition, it stimulates the formation of flower buds on the roots, from which annual shoots appear in spring. They will catch up with perennials in growth and, most likely, will also bloom.

Next spring, this bush should be intensively fed every week until August with fertilizers with trace elements and high content nitrogen (good in this case, the ratio N:P:K - 3:1:1 has proven itself). For the winter, the plant falls asleep just above the cut branches.

By the way, in regions with a cold climate, this pruning method will also allow less frost-resistant non-repairable varieties of hydrangeas to bloom well.

Igor ARKATOV, collector, Kazan

Spirea pruning

Spring shaping

Spring flowering spireas: oak-leaved; arguta, or sharp-toothed; gray, or ashy; Thunberg; Wangutta; nipponian; plum-leaved.

In the first year after planting, it is only necessary to slightly shorten the skeletal shoots, remove all weak, damaged branches and those that grow inside the bush.

In the second year, immediately after flowering, you need to cut off all faded shoots to the strongest and youngest side shoot. All weak branches should also be removed, cutting them in such a way that the crown of the bush is symmetrical.

In the third and subsequent years (also after flowering), it is necessary to cut the faded branches to the strongest and youngest side shoot, cutting out the old ones (3 or more years). Thus, the procedure for rejuvenating the bush begins.

Summer shaping

Summer flowering spireas (S. Japanese, Bumalda, birch-leaved, Willard, Douglas) are pruned in late June or early July after flowering.

Pruning young plants can be handled with pruning shears, adult spireas may have thick shoots and may require a garden saw.

You need to start cutting spireas of any flowering time from the first year of life. Usually, immediately after planting in the spring, all shoots are shortened by about half to a strong outer bud pointing outward. All weak shoots are completely cut out.

Then pruned in the summer immediately after flowering. And first of all, all faded inflorescences are removed, which stimulates the growth of lateral shoots, and this will allow flowering to continue as long as possible (especially in Japanese spirae).

In the second year in the spring (approximately in March or early April), all shoots are again cut to half the length. In summer, you can also limit yourself to pruning only faded inflorescences. For the third season, spring and summer pruning should be repeated, while removing all old shoots that are more than three years old, cutting them to the ground.

We cut the lilac

Do not break, but shear

Prune lilac preferably annually or at least every other season. In the middle lane, this is done in the spring before the start of sap flow. Since the flower buds are on the tops of last year's shoots (usually the strongest, located in the upper part of the crown), they are not shortened, as in fruit trees. This is the basis for future flowering. Remove all weak, thin, twisted and growing shoots inside the crown that do not have full-fledged flower buds. Broken and dried cut out throughout the year. For the next season, the best ones are selected from young sprouts, and unnecessary ones are removed.

Immediately after flowering, faded panicles are cut out. This not only improves the appearance of the bush, but also relieves it of the need to expend energy on the formation of seeds.

In grafted plants, the formation of "wild" shoots is possible: it is removed throughout the season immediately as it appears, leaving no stumps.

Rejuvenate old lilac bushes

Rejuvenating pruning improves the appearance of lilacs and the quality of flowering, increases the resistance of plants to diseases and pests, and increases their lifespan. In addition, by replacing old trunks, you can slightly reduce the height of the bushes in order to bring the flowering zone closer to human eye level. For this purpose, in early spring, old trunks with peeling bark and small increments are cut down, leaving low stumps, or they are transferred to a good strong lateral branch. During the season, strong shoots grow on them, which form a new bush. It is better to rejuvenate very old specimens with weak shoot formation in stages, alternately removing the trunks for several years in a row. Own-rooted bushes can be cut below; the grafted rejuvenate more carefully, taking care not to accidentally cut off the entire graft.

Why did honeysuckle die?

Last year, I cut out all the old branches from the honeysuckle to the ground. The plant has died. Why?

Irina Churakova

If the honeysuckle bushes are cut almost to the ground, only a small number of dormant buds in the root collar zone can wake up, and even then, if there is no drought. When rejuvenating pruning of old honeysuckle bushes, hemp is left 30-40 cm high from the soil level. After this procedure, young shoots grow. At the same time, it should be taken into account that too many of them can grow, so in the third year the updated bush should be thinned out. Depending on the variety, you can leave 10-15 of the strongest and evenly spaced branches, and remove the rest.

Forsythia pruning

This shrub is a bright representative of the Olive family, and even before the first leaves appear, it pleases with a magnificent fountain of golden flowers. Quite often, for-position is also used to form flowering hedge. After flowering, the bush is an excellent background for other plants.

Unfortunately, forsythia quickly thickens, losing its decorative effect, so periodic pruning is needed. Only it is impossible to shorten the bush much, otherwise it will bloom weakly. Strong pruning is only necessary if the plant is not branching well.

In the first two or three years after planting, the shoots of the seedling need only be slightly shortened. After the first winter and every spring, sanitary pruning is done. There is no need to be afraid: it will not harm the plant, on the contrary, it stimulates the growth of shoots and gives the crown density. Since the forsythia is growing rapidly, some of the shoots are ugly out of the outline of the crown. They can be cut or, better, pinched in time throughout the season. Starting from 3-4 years of the life of the bush (when it grows up and gets stronger), you need to start more serious pruning, while not forgetting to carry out a sanitary one every year.

It is better to prune the forsythia after it has completely faded (in the middle lane, this is around June). Shoots should be cut over a strong bud or a strong side shoot. Cut off all dry and old shoots up to 4-6 cm from the ground, which will stimulate the growth of new ones. Such pruning will help regulate the thickening, as well as the height of the bush. You can give the forsythia any shape you want. Single bushes are usually allowed to grow well. Once every three years, the crown must be adjusted. If this is not done, the bush can stretch out a lot, and it will bloom weakly and not as brightly as well-groomed specimens.

If forsythia grows in a hedge, it also needs to be cut about once every three seasons. And pruning will be, rather, not corrective, but rejuvenating. At the same time, the shoots are shortened by 2/3 of the length or cut off completely, that is, “on the stump”. And it will give impetus to active growth from the base of the new "hair" of the bush.