The importance of window finishing after installation of plastic windows is not always realized by customers. Because of this, subsequently, a lot of people complain that they installed advertised double-glazed windows, and it bleeds through the window. In fact, the problem lies in the fact that without finishing all the work cannot be considered fully completed.
The quality of the installation of a plastic window depends on the quality of the finish of the slopes.
Finishing a plastic window with your own hands will allow you to create not only a beautiful appearance window, but also significantly extend its service life.
After plastic windows installed in the room, the next stage of work begins - creating slopes. Properly done finishing of a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive finished look to the opening.
Properly done finishing of a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive finished look to the opening.
Slopes are considered to be all wall surfaces that are located near windows. Slopes are external (located on the outside of the window) and internal (located on the inside of the window). Most often, everyone is interested in the internal slopes. If it is better to entrust the installation to professionals, then it is more expedient to do the finishing with your own hands.
Correctly made slopes play not only an aesthetic role, they also have thermal insulation qualities. Slopes allow you to protect the mounting seams, prevent windows from fogging, prevent the destruction of the mounting foam. Used to create slopes different kinds materials.
Interior finishing with plaster
Slopes using plaster have more disadvantages than advantages. Over time, the plaster begins to burst and crack, losing its original color. The installation itself is also not very convenient, it takes a lot of time and effort for high-quality performance. The plaster is applied in several layers, each layer must be dried and cured. After which the surface is primed and finally painted. This takes one to two weeks. Plaster slopes do not create necessary thermal insulation, and when it gets too cold, the windows will fog up.
Regular drywall
The only drawback in using it is the plasterboard’s fear of moisture. Therefore, it is worth installing gypsum boards only in rooms with low level humidity.
Slopes made from plasterboard are quite durable. They have a smooth and attractive appearance. Drywall is insulated, and this gives decent thermal insulation properties to the slopes. The only drawback in using it is the plasterboard’s fear of moisture. Therefore, gypsum boards should only be installed in rooms with low humidity levels.
The process of installing plasterboard slopes is labor-intensive: puttying, priming and painting are required. They can be made faster than plaster slopes. Although the installation time also depends on the qualifications of the technician.
Plasterboard finishing is an intermediate option in terms of price and quality. To create a neat joint around the perimeter of the window, a special plastic or metal corner is used. Such slopes can be covered with a layer of paint, liquid plastic, decorative plaster or transparent wood-look furniture film. Using the latter option, you get a completely smooth surface that is easy to clean and well suited for use in the kitchen.
Plasterboard finishing of windows is often chosen when there is a need to hide slopes with very damaged openings. In this case, treatment with a primer or antibacterial impregnation is used.
Avoid leaving any air space between the plasterboard sheathing and the wall that could allow water to enter. Otherwise on finishing coating Spots may appear and deformation of the slope may occur.
Installing plastic
Plastic slopes can be quickly installed, they do not fade, are fairly easy to clean and have an attractive appearance that harmonizes with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade).
This is the most common and universal method. Plastic slopes can be quickly installed, they do not fade, are fairly easy to clean and have an attractive appearance that harmonizes with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade). When installing such slopes, it is used mineral wool, which provides the necessary thermal insulation, sound insulation and water resistance. You can make them quite easily with your own hands. Slopes made of plastic have a fairly decorative appearance, smooth and smooth surface, long term operation (equal to service time). They can be made fairly quickly (within about two hours). Install plastic slopes without additional work for puttying and painting. They have a good degree of vapor impermeability, which protects walls and foam insulation from freezing.
Tools and materials
Before starting work, stock up on the necessary set of tools.
- Plastic strips 8 mm thick.
- U-shaped strip of plastic (the so-called starting strip).
- F-shaped strip of plastic.
- Wooden slats about 12 mm thick.
- Insulation material (usually mineral wool is used).
- Scissors and metal knife.
- Construction stapler with staples.
- Building level.
- White silicone.
- Self-tapping screws (4.5 mm and 95 mm).
- Drill or hammer drill.
If the window has recently been installed, it is better not to remove the protective film until the work is completed.
Installation steps
Wooden slats are placed around the entire perimeter of the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. The slats are placed flush to the walls.
- Wooden slats are placed around the entire perimeter of the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. The slats are placed flush to the walls. To prepare the surface of the wall, a puncher and a drill are used as needed. To obtain perfectly even slopes, the rails are vertically attached to the wall, aligned with the level.
- It is necessary to fill a U-shaped strip along the outer edge of the window. For fastening, use 4.5 mm self-tapping screws. A slope strip is inserted into the gutter of this strip. The joints of the U-shaped strips should make it possible to install the plastic at given angles. Therefore, when crossing U-shaped strips, it is necessary to partially cut off the corners with a knife, thereby ensuring an even and smooth joint on the inside.
- The F-shaped strip is being installed. Its groove should be located opposite the previously installed groove of the U-shaped strip. In the rest of the part, which is located above the opening, the F-groove must be cut off. This must be done because the upper part of the F-strips should be overlapped. Attach this strip to wooden slats need help construction stapler. After joining, all excess parts of the F-strips should be cut off with metal scissors. This method is convenient because it does not require further gluing of wallpaper around the window. The F-strip covers all defects.
- The plastic is installed in the grooves while the insulation is laid at the same time. Here it is important to measure the size of the plastic as accurately as possible. If the joints cannot be made perfectly smooth, you can rub them with white silicone.
Exterior decoration much more important than the internal one, since the polyurethane foam, remaining without protection from ultraviolet radiation that destroys it sun rays, deteriorates very quickly and becomes unusable.
It is advisable that the installation of all slopes be carried out the next day after installing the window, when the foam is already sufficiently dry. As thermal insulation material You can use polyurethane foam. For getting optimal performance Installation of slopes and window sills is best done simultaneously.
Many, trying to save money, order installation without exterior and interior window decoration. Some believe that internal beauty is more important than external beauty and do not finish the window from the street side, leaving the installation seams without protection from the outside. In fact, the exterior decoration is much more important than the interior, since polyurethane foam, left without protection from the ultraviolet rays of the sun that destroys it, very quickly deteriorates and becomes unusable. If you want to save money, then it is better to wait interior decoration. External treatment must be carried out as soon as possible after installation.
Exterior plaster
Due to its low cost, this method is the most common. Most often, cement mortar is used. A solution that is prepared from glue for ceramic tiles. However, there is no guarantee that all finishes will not crack over time.
Special tape PSUL
Some professionals often use special tape, with the help of which the seam space expands and fills the free space, thereby protecting the polyurethane foam from moisture and ultraviolet rays. However, when doing the exterior finishing of windows with your own hands, it is not always possible to buy such material.
Nashchelniki
The cover is plastic corner, which is made specifically for finishing windows from the outside and protects the mounting foam from all external influences.
The flashing is a plastic corner, which is made specifically for finishing outside and protects the mounting foam from all external influences.
Finishing begins with installing a corner on the top seam of the window. To do this, a piece of the flashing is cut out, which has the same length as the distance between the quarters of the window opening. It is secured to the window profile with ordinary self-tapping screws.
There is no need to install screws very often. If necessary, slots must be made in the corner (if, for example, mounting is hindered by holders mosquito nets). After this, you need to mount the ebb to the wall using dowel nails. It is advisable to apply polyurethane foam in several places separately. This will secure the ebb more tightly and soften the sound when raindrops hit it.
The most difficult thing in this finishing method is cutting out the side strips. They must fit with maximum precision to the top strip and the window sill. Sometimes it is better to cut with a margin, and then adjust it to the desired size. The joints with the upper flashing after installation must be treated with liquid plastic or silicone.
Properly finished plastic windows will serve you and will delight you for many years!
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 7 minutes
The final stage of the process of installing modern double-glazed windows is the finishing of the slopes. They are needed not only for decorating a window opening. Thick double-glazed windows and reliable fittings provide excellent thermal insulation, but pairing window frame and the walls of the apartment remain the weak point of the structure. This problem area needs to be covered. Let's find out which slopes are best suited for plastic windows.
What requirements must slopes meet?
Before considering window framing options, their advantages and disadvantages, let’s determine what is required of these elements.
Slopes should:
- Not inferior to the durability of the window design. Modern double-glazed windows are designed for a minimum of 15–20 years of operation. Slopes must withstand no less time without loss of basic qualities. Few people would like to redo them every two or three years.
- Correspond general style windows, forming a single whole with it.
- Maintain or even improve the performance characteristics of plastic windows.
Varieties
When repairing an apartment in a new building or when replacing windows, you will have to choose how to finish the openings after installation modern designs with double glazed windows.
Window slopes can be finished using the following materials:
- plasters;
- drywall;
- gypsum fiber;
- plastic panels.
Plaster slopes
The manufacturing technology consists in the sequential application of several layers of plaster and putty mortar. Layer finishing putty painted.
Finishing a window opening with plaster has the following advantages:
- Versatility. This material is used in rooms with different humidity and temperature levels.
- Reasonable price. Plaster – inexpensive material Moreover, it is possible to save money by doing the work yourself.
- Strength. Plaster slopes are more resistant to mechanical stress compared to other types of finishing.
- No seams. Perhaps the main argument of supporters of such a coating is that there is no need to additionally process the joints and interfaces of the opening planes.
- Possibility of updating and repair.
But a number of serious shortcomings have led to the fact that plaster is used less and less for work of this kind:
- Duration and complexity of the process. Finishing takes considerable time: each layer of the plaster mixture needs to dry.
- A large amount of dust and dirt, risk of scratching the window.
- Low thermal insulation properties of plaster. Such slopes are prone to freezing in winter and condensation. In addition, when installing them, you have to cut the foam one or two centimeters inward, weakening the thermal insulation seam.
- Detachment from frame. It is impossible to firmly connect the plaster and PVC frame. There are no sealants with equally good adhesion to both materials. This leads to the formation of cracks between window block and a plaster layer.
The last two drawbacks can be eliminated by insulating the opening with penoplex before plastering and using the adjacent window profile with reinforcing mesh.
Drywall slopes
Pieces of gypsum plasterboard are used for their manufacture. the right size, which are screwed to the profile frame or glued to the sides of the opening. Then the surface of the drywall is primed, puttied and painted. The space between the wall and the new slopes is insulated polyurethane foam.
Attaching gypsum boards is easier and faster than creating a flat surface with plaster. But we must not forget that after installation, finishing is required, which will take several days.
Advantages of using drywall:
- Low cost.
- Easy to install. Requires very basic construction skills.
- The ability to easily create perfectly smooth surfaces.
- Additional insulation.
- Simple repair, suitable for repeated repainting.
Flaws:
- Inability to firmly bind the slope material and the PVC frame (as with the plaster version). This leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints.
- Fear of moisture. If the windows “cry”, under the influence of condensation the drywall, even moisture-resistant, gradually collapses and swells near the frame. Judging by the reviews, this main reason refusal to use gypsum boards in the manufacture of slopes.
- Risk of sagging and squeezing. Still, drywall is a fairly fragile material.
To avoid the stage finishing, you can take laminated gypsum board instead of the usual one. But in this case, you will have to use special corners to cover the ends of the sheets.
Slopes made of gypsum fiber (GVL)
The technology for installing slopes made of gypsum fiber boards is practically no different from attaching plasterboard; the advantages will be the same. At the same time, GVL does not have the disadvantages of GCR: it is much stronger and stiffer, and its moisture-resistant version is not at all afraid of a wet environment.
Mr. Build believes that when correct installation GVL slopes are superior to other options in terms of performance and appearance.
Advantages of gypsum fiber slopes:
- Fairly simple installation.
- High strength and rigidity.
- Possibility of high-quality insulation.
- Ideal design geometry.
- Long service life - at least 10 years.
- Maintainability: a damaged element can be easily puttied and tinted.
- Moisture resistance.
Flaws:
- Relatively high price (compared to gypsum board and plastic).
- The need for finishing.
- Cutting gypsum fiber is somewhat more difficult than cutting drywall.
If, after priming and puttying, you paint slopes made of high-quality gypsum plasterboard latex paint, then they can be washed without fear. And repainting will be required no earlier than after 5–8 years.
Plastic slopes
Another way to get aesthetic and reliable slopes is to cover the opening with double-sided sandwich panels. They not only have good thermal insulation properties, but also with sufficient rigidity.
It is not recommended to use one-sided sandwich panels and decorative panels for finishing a window opening. Wall panels made of thin cellular plastic. They do not have the necessary strength, wear resistance and thermal insulation qualities.
Plastic finishing is gaining increasing popularity. The material of the slopes not only visually harmonizes with window frame made of PVC, but is also securely fastened to it using special sealants. This method of finishing the opening has other advantages:
- Low price.
- A smooth surface that retains its properties for many years and does not require additional finishing or regular maintenance.
- No cracks or temperature changes due to the use of the same material from which the frame is made.
- Additional thermal insulation that strengthens the weak point of the window opening - the seam between the frame and the wall of the room.
- Fast installation. Plastic slopes are installed faster than plasterboard and especially plaster ones.
- Minimum amount of dirt and dust when facing with plastic.
- 100% moisture resistance.
- It is possible to replace part of the slope if damaged.
- The frame covering the outer contour reliably protects the junction of the wallpaper and the window opening.
- Susceptibility to mechanical damage.
- Impossibility of local repairs. If it breaks, you will have to replace the entire panel.
- Low quality of additional elements, such as corners. Often these small parts are made from recycled plastic, which turns yellow over time and stands out unattractively against the background of snow-white slopes.
Windows are commonly called the eyes of the house. Their appearance reflects the tastes of the owner. The decoration of windows and their framing give the façade completeness and emphasize architectural style building, its severity and elegance. Realtors claim that framing openings from the outside increases the value of a home by 15–25%. A bunch of decorative elements from various materials allow you to create an individual image of a building, imitating any era and direction in architecture.
Window siding
Finishing and framing around the window is an element of architectural decor
Vadik came to me for advice. His elderly relative asked him to prepare and sell the house. It was necessary to raise the price of the building as much as possible at minimum costs to give it a marketable appearance. The site was located near the city, and we went to have a look.
I immediately noticed the window frames. It was old, faded cladding with cracked paint. It provided sealing of the opening, but lost its aesthetic appearance. There was no cash on the façade. Do beautiful facade is possible only in harmony of all elements. It was necessary to start with finishing the doorway and windows in uniform style.
We had to replace wooden frames. We decided to install plastic sandwich panels and frame each opening in the same style along the entire facade. There was also a wooden cash box inside. They prepared polyurethane slopes to replace it.
Plastic frame parts are the most practical
While we were drawing sketches of the future facade, I was telling my friend what decorative elements there are for cladding an opening, and how to make cashing inside and outside.
The finishing of plastic windows is made from various materials:
- tree;
- stone;
- porcelain stoneware;
- rubber with added crumbs;
- facing tiles;
- plaster stucco;
- plastic parts;
- foam elements.
Wood is most beautiful in its uniqueness and warmth. But it requires permanent care and is quickly destroyed by moisture.
Stone and porcelain tiles are difficult to install and require periodic varnishing. Their main disadvantage is the large weight and load on the foundation.
Polystyrene foam and plaster look great, but they are hygroscopic and require a multi-layer protective coating.
Parts made of polyurethane suited us. Plastic products look good inside and out. They have several advantages over other products made from other materials:
- identical color throughout;
- resistance to abrasion;
- do not fade in the sun;
- serve for more than 20 years outside the building without losing its appearance;
- moisture resistant;
- fireproof;
- easy to install around the opening.
A large selection of parts and accessories made of polyurethane allows a novice specialist to independently make trim and window frames.
Window cladding elements made of polyurethane
When making window frames with polyurethane parts, we first installed plastic trims. The windows were too small relative to the size of the house. Therefore, white cladding should visually enlarge them.
Outdoor use a large number of decorative elements made of polyurethane for lining door and window openings:
- sandrik – decorative cornice;
- console;
- rack;
- moldigi;
- pilaster;
- window sills;
- platbands;
- false shutters;
- keystone;
- bracket;
- imitation rust.
It is possible to use other parts, such as stucco molding, rosette. But they are used less frequently, mainly in classic styles Baroque and Renaissance. Before us was modern house with a massive stone-lined foundation. To visually equalize the proportions, it was necessary to lay overlays in the form of rusticated stones on the corners. Framing windows using wide side elements will increase them.
There is a wide range of colors for plastic products. The most popular are white, wood-like and various gray tones. The color scheme is selected to match the chosen style. It is necessary to take into account the size of the building and openings. Light wide cladding enlarges the windows. If you need to reduce or make them less noticeable, you should choose dark-colored plastic that matches the tone of the walls. Then it is enough to install platbands and a window sill.
If you install only a narrow molding around the perimeter of the opening, the facade will look strictly, in a retro style. Bracket and sandrik without console will stretch the window vertically and make it narrower.
The keystone reminds us of the times of the knights, when they could not make even ceilings and instead built arched vaults. In combination with rusticated stone overlays, the illusion of a massive building is created. But such a cladding does not look on wooden houses.
Suitable for log houses carved frames and false shutters. It is advisable to choose a color that imitates pine and birch, or just white.
Finishing the doorway and windows in the same style
To give it a stylish look, we decided to install window sills made of acrylic stone under white marble on the first floor. They are durable, repel water and are not afraid of frost and UV rays. They look more solid and elegant than standard plastic moldings. Place brackets and moldings under them. On top there is a wide sandstone with a triangular protrusion in the center.
To increase the width of the doorway, we mounted pilasters on the sides, creating the illusion of semi-columns. Similar wide consoles decorated the windows. Moldings along the perimeter of the frame emphasized the geometry of the lines and their severity.
On the second floor they installed a plastic window sill, platbands, and along the side wall the opening was finished with false shutters with an arched sandstone. By front side The façade imitated the cladding of the walls around the opening with rustication. At the top were keystones and molding.
A realtor I know, after we completed framing the windows and transforming the facade, said that the value of the house had risen by 30%. A correctly created façade image is of great importance. After all, it is external view home makes the main impression.
In addition, we have significantly improved the thermal insulation of windows. Exterior decoration not only decorated, but also reliably protected the walls from getting wet. It became quieter inside, the noise from outside almost did not penetrate. The light frame enhances the natural lighting of the rooms.
Facing openings inside and outside the house
Inside the house, we dismantled the old window sills and platbands. Installed plastic panels at the bottom. Replaced the insulation on the sides and top. Then they checked the vertical and mounted a new profile around the perimeter for support. The upper slope was installed. We adjusted the side panels and placed them in place by placing them behind the starting profile around the frame and gluing them to the corner along inside opening.
When the buyer came to look at the house, Vadik and I were convinced that our actions were correct. He was not interested in interior decoration, since each person remodels it in his own way after purchasing it. He checked the condition of the pipes purely mechanically so that they would not leak. But good condition and beautiful finish doors and windows was noticed first.
After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closing different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.
There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given from step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.
Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles
This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.
After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.
The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.
Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.
Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can make it level by placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.
Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.
It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.
We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.
Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.
We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.
There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.
Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.
Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed sandpaper. To make the edge smooth it is easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or a sharpening stone (half a circle, as in the photo).
We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.
Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.
On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on a panel ready for installation, to the far edge, which is placed under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.
To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.
Squeeze the strip into the crack, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp cloth. soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - completely clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - right away - horizontal panel slopes, then joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.
After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be pulled into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.
That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.
When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, to besides, e If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. In sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.
Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile
The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.
Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face equal to the angle slope installation. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.
We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.
You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.
When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.
At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.
Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.
The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.
The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.
We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.
Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. Easy to apply: apply to both sides of the corner thin strip glue, press, passing along with your hand, hold for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.
After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.
If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.
Video
For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.
Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.
And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.
The fashion for plastic windows is not decreasing. On the contrary, such designs are gradually gaining more and more popularity. However, such an installation is usually accompanied by the need to manufacture window slopes, without which the windows will be blown out, and the room will not delight you with its appearance. As usual, the owners are faced with the question of choosing materials for slopes. It must be said that the choice ahead is quite limited, since a natural selection of the materials most suitable for these purposes has already occurred. In the article we will list what you will have to choose from, and also talk about the pros and cons of these materials.
Plastering slopes indoors
This is the most common finishing method in the past. internal slopes. This is due to the fact that drywall had not been invented before, and no one had even heard of plastic. Now some owners decide to use this type of finishing because of its low cost. But is this method really good?
Indeed, having bought a bag of ready-made mortar, for example, white plaster or cement mortar, you can independently, very quickly make more or less acceptable slopes. Then the surfaces are sanded and coated with white water-based emulsion. What's the catch then? Why does the fashion for such slopes tend to zero?
The secret is very simple. Any plaster surfaces, being on the border of cold and warm air, are subject to rapid destruction. They are simultaneously exposed to the heat of the house and the cold of the street. The result within a year is the appearance of small cracks on the surface of the plaster. Then they gradually increase, and the appearance of the slopes deteriorates irrevocably. The owners of the premises have to make annual cosmetic repairs to such slopes. Therefore, it is not recommended to use any types of plaster solutions for making slopes.
Finishing window slopes with plasterboard
This modern material quite suitable for making door or window slopes. Moreover, like plaster, it is absolutely environmentally friendly. Making slopes from gypsum plasterboard is not difficult if you study the relevant recommendations. But, if you want it to be really beautiful, invite a specialist. The surface of the drywall is perfectly flat, so the slopes will be very smooth, unlike plaster. Drywall does not require any cosmetic repairs within 25-30 years. The paint may need to be renewed as it gets dirty.
Drywall is installed with glue or dowels, plastered, and later, after the surfaces have dried, painted with several layers of facade paint. The advantages of gypsum board are obvious. This is the low cost of the sheets and glue themselves, simplicity and high speed of installation. Suffice it to say that in 1 day you can easily make rough plasterboard slopes in 4-5 rooms and then plaster them. On the second day, the slopes are sanded and painted. That's how quickly it all ends. One of the disadvantages is the large amount of dust generated during cutting and fitting. plasterboard sheets. The work is also wet, just like plaster, so be prepared for a fair amount of dirt in the room.
Plastic slopes
Contrary to popular belief about the dangers of plastic, we dare to assure you that modern plastic panels intended for indoor use are completely harmless to humans. You use a lot of things made of acrylic, silicone, and leatherette, right? Plastic does not emit absolutely any toxins or fumes around itself, therefore it is also environmentally friendly. And the fact that it does not let air through does not bother you. Plastered and painted drywall does not let it through either.
A huge plus of plastic slopes is their practicality. Plastic does not get dirty, does not lose its color, care for it is extremely simple. The work on the installation of slopes is carried out in record time. Slopes in the entire apartment are usually made in 1 day. This is the cleanest way to make slopes of all listed.
The only “dirty” moment is the filling of wooden blocks inside on the walls from the side of the window or doorway. As a minus, it is worth paying attention to the relatively high cost of such slopes. Consider the cost of the plastic itself, profiles for plastic, wooden beam and hardware.
