Installing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet will help prevent the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew. This must be provided before starting overhaul. In these rooms there are constant temperature changes and increased air humidity, which over time will certainly affect the condition of the walls and ceiling, where pathogenic flora will begin to develop. You can invite a professional to carry out the work or do it yourself.
Types of ventilation systems
Ventilation in the bathroom of a private house or cottage is arranged quite simply: the air duct is located under the ceiling and is discharged to the roof or to a common exhaust hood. When the door is opened, the air flow enters the room and exits through the pipe, creating natural circulation.
IN apartment buildings the situation is a little more complicated: the entire entrance is connected to one ventilation duct. In apartments located on the lower floors, the risk of clogging the air exchange system is much higher.
Forced ventilation in the bathroom.
The main types of ventilation include:
- natural;
- forced;
- combined.
The choice depends on where you live and your condition. In multi-storey buildings, forced ventilation is preferable.
How does natural air exchange work?
A properly installed hood works very simply: air enters the bathroom or toilet and then exits through the ventilation shaft. The temperature difference between indoors and outdoors creates draft, with the help of which air flows constantly move.
When air leaves the hygienic room, a zone of low pressure is created; the difference is compensated by the influx from the street entering through the open window during ventilation. In this way, natural ventilation occurs, which is called supply ventilation.
Natural ventilation cannot occur if the door to the bathroom or toilet is closed tightly. For normal air circulation, it is necessary to provide a gap between the door and the floor, through which fresh air will constantly flow.
If the natural or mine is disturbed, problems immediately arise: humidity rises, unpleasant odors appear, condensation may accumulate on smooth surfaces and heating pipes.
Determining a blockage in a pipe or shaft
Working condition natural ventilation It is better to check in the cold season. To do this you need:
- open a window in your house or apartment to let in cool air;
- close by attaching a sheet of paper;
- If the sheet is not pressed tightly by the air flow, then the ventilation is clogged.
The degree of blockage can be determined by the behavior of the paper. If it is held weakly, then air passes through, but not in full. If the sheet does not hold at all, then the channel is completely clogged. In both cases, cleaning or installation of the device is required. forced ventilation.
Forced ventilation
Unlike natural ventilation, forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom is provided by a fan built into the air exchange system. When choosing it, you need to take into account that it will consume electricity and operate at high humidity.
Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, its cost, durability, performance and noise level depend on. It comes in three types:
- diametrical;
- axial;
- radial.
The first device is not suitable; it is designed to work in air conditioning systems and heat guns. You need to choose between two other types of devices.
The axial model differs from the radial model in lower cost and more power, but at the same time it produces more noise. The impeller of the axial fan is driven by an electric motor, the air flow goes along the axis of the motor, it is installed directly on the exhaust opening.
Radial fans operate based on centrifugal force, so power consumption and noise levels can be reduced by changing the angle of the blades. Install such a device in ventilation pipe, at some distance from the grating.
How to choose a fan
Buying the right fan is complicated by the large assortment of different models, so it’s better to use a hint. When choosing an exhaust device, several factors are taken into account:
These indicators will help you make your choice. You can calculate the required productivity using the following scheme:
- determine the area of the room;
- multiply it by 5;
- add 20% to the resulting number.
This will be the choice of device performance with a small margin. The expected change of air in the room is at least 5-8 times a day.
Installation of an exhaust device
You can install a fan in the toilet, as in the bathroom, with your own hands if there are ready-made air ducts. Before starting installation, be sure to check them for blockages, and if necessary, clean the channels with a special brush. If you cannot restore air exchange on your own, then it is better to call a specialist who will do it professionally.
If the bathroom and toilet are located separately, it is enough to install a fan in one of the rooms, provided that they are connected by a ventilation hole in common wall and air circulates freely between them.
With a wall-mounted axial fan, everything is simple - it is installed on top of the ventilation hole:
- 1. The wall around the entrance to the shaft is coated with polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails.
- 2. The working part of the fan is completely recessed into the hole, and the outer part is pressed tightly against the wall.
- 3. Install the mesh and secure the front cover with screws or dowels. Usually they come complete with the device.
- 4. Lay the cable and connect it to the power supply.
- 1. The terminal box cover is unscrewed.
- 2. Electrical wires are inserted into the clamp, which is located on the cover.
- 3. The wires are connected to the terminals marked “linear phase” and “zero”.
- 4. The cover is put in place.
- 5. The device is plugged into a power outlet to check that the connection is correct.
- 6. The diameter of the air duct is adjusted to the dimensions of the fan. If necessary, use an additional plastic pipe.
- 7. The device is mounted in the air duct pipe at some distance from the grille. To do this, use detachable clamps with rubber seals or special flange connections with adapters (with a square cross-section). When fastening, use at least 4 bolts.
The ventilation grille is put in place, and the wires are covered with a special box to protect them from moisture.
Some people prefer to save energy automatic switching on fan when turning on the light in the bathroom or toilet. Operating the device in this mode may not be enough to maintain an optimal microclimate. This must be taken into account when connecting wires to the switch.
In the absence of confidence in own strength It’s better to contact specialists. They will quickly solve the ventilation problem and carefully carry out all the work in compliance with the rules and regulations.
When installing a mixed system (natural and forced), it is necessary to have two exhaust openings. A fan will be installed in one of them. A mixed supply and exhaust system is used in large rooms, with high humidity, where normal supply ventilation not enough.
Today, a hood in the toilet is not a luxury at all, but an essential necessity when arranging a bathroom. In most cases, this room does not have windows, so there is no access to fresh air. In addition, there will always be a presence bad smell and high humidity, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of mold and various fungi. It is these problems that ventilation in the bathroom solves.
- forced;
- natural.
- equipment performance;
- safety in use;
- noise level during operation.
Show all
Types of ventilation
The type of ventilation system plays a very important role important role in the arrangement of the bathroom. There are many manufacturers of such equipment who produce products of varying quality. In general, ventilation is divided into two types:
If we talk about natural ventilation, then everything is simple. Even at the time of construction of the house, ventilation shafts are installed directly in the walls or on them. Their main function is to ensure the flow of fresh air into the room and the removal of exhaust air to the street. In fact, this is the natural circulation of the room.
As practice shows, to ensure a sufficient amount of oxygen and a good microclimate in a house or, more importantly, in an office building, forced exhaust must be used. To do this, fans are installed directly into the shafts. Depending on the type of device, the fan may be in a box or without it. If a high-quality forced exhaust hood is installed in the toilet, and its power is correctly selected, then there will be no problems with excess odors and strong humidity will not be.
Hood in the bathroom and toilet. Connection secrets from Alexey Zemskov
The toilet room differs from other rooms in the house in that it is visited only briefly. In this regard, ventilation should also occur only periodically.
For correct selection During this time, you just need to observe the microclimate in the room. First, you should purchase ventilation with a timer, and then set the ideal operating mode, while the costs will be minimal. It is also necessary to take into account that in summer ventilation should work 20-30% more efficiently.
Surprisingly, unpleasant odors can also appear with a fan, which is facilitated by their penetration through ventilation shafts from other apartments in the high-rise building. This is especially noticeable on the first floors. The problem can be solved simply by purchasing a fan with a check valve.
The operating principle of the system is also simple. When the fan is inactive, the damper closes it, and after the fan starts working, the air flow calmly pushes it aside and draws stale air out of the room. After the operation stops, the damper closes again.
Device selection rules
Today, the ventilation equipment market is quite highly developed. There is a large selection, and an ordinary user will not be able to quickly choose a decent model that would suit his needs and meet all standards. Each individual product has its own functional features, power, equipment. To commit the right choice a person without experience should just listen to a few tips and emphasize on key characteristics devices:
It is worth noting that the hood is equipped with protection against moisture getting inside the housing. If such protection is not provided, this can lead to a short circuit, damage to the wiring and failure of the ventilation system. In this regard, it is worth paying attention to devices with strong protection from moisture, and the voltage should be from 12 or 24 V.
The performance level is also an important indicator when choosing ventilation equipment. To get an exact figure required power equipment requires complex mathematical calculations. But this can also be done in simple ways. It is worth considering one rule - the hood must pump 12 volumes of the room in 1 hour. Only then can you hope for high-quality operation of the equipment and fresh air in the bathroom.
If the calculations are made, then it is recommended to buy equipment with a power slightly higher than the obtained figure. This must be done so that the hood in the bathroom does not work at full capacity, but has a certain reserve. The opposite situation can lead to the equipment simply burning out.
Ventilation in the wall of a private house / for toilets from odors /
You can often find devices on the market where the productivity is at the level of 100 cubic meters per hour. For the average bathroom this will be more than enough.
Any range hood model will make noise, even if the manufacturer positions it as silent. The sound can be either mechanical or aerodynamic. The first occurs due to the operation of the device’s motor, and the second occurs from the vibration of the blade itself.
The maximum permissible noise level for such devices is 40 dB, and the normal level is 25 dB. This data must be indicated in the instructions for the device. But if you like the design, and the sound level from the work is off the charts, then you can additionally install special sound insulation.
Self-installation
Installing a hood in the toilet yourself is not too difficult, especially if the option is overhead and you just need to mount the device into the hole. But in any case, the work will consist of several key stages.
Installation consists of the following steps:
We make ventilation with our own hands at no cost
There are situations in which you cannot do without the help of specialists. For example, if there are several switches in the room or the hood for the toilet and bathroom is shared, then in this case you won’t be able to figure it out on your own without experience.
Suitable place for hood
When carrying out the work of installing a hood in a toilet with your own hands, you should pay attention to several key factors and listen to the advice of specialists, otherwise you will not be able to do the job efficiently on your own. The device simply will not function effectively.
Things to consider:
If the connection to the electrical network is shared, then you need to remember that the hood will not work when the lights are off. This is not entirely convenient, so it is recommended to choose another option - installing a separate switch.
Devices with additional functions
If you install a separate switch for the device, then the model itself can be selected with additional useful features. They will make use more convenient.
If the toilet and bathroom are located separately in the house, then only one fan can be used. In this case, you just need to connect the fan with a corrugation in the wall. This will allow ventilation of two rooms at the same time.
Inexperienced people who have not previously encountered the installation of ventilation systems will find it useful to learn a few tips from the experts.
There is no need to purchase expensive and large models. Extra spending will not always lead to better result. The main thing here is to choose the right high-quality device with the required power. Even cheaper models can perform the basic function perfectly.
If an air conditioner, ionizer, humidifier and similar devices are already installed in the house, then you should not forget about ventilation. This is necessary because the above devices do not provide fresh air.
You need to pay attention not only to the power of the device, but also to the manufacturer. Often, even inexpensive models from well-known manufacturers are of good quality.
If the ventilation system with natural circulation is not enough, you need to install devices for forced ventilation of the room. This will allow you to constantly have fresh air. By installing even the simplest fan, the microclimate in the room will become comfortable.
Thus, installing an exhaust fan will not be difficult; the main thing is to approach this issue responsibly. It is worth remembering the key factors by which you should choose a device, namely performance, diameter, manufacturer and quality.
A bathroom is a place where water flows every now and then, a bathtub is filled, a hot shower steams, and wet clothes are dried. Therefore, ventilation here should work not only no worse, but even better than in any other room. Otherwise, the whole house will “suffer”.
Here are 10 facts about bathroom ventilation:
Fact 1. Mold, tile decay and rust are often the result of poor ventilation.
The bathroom is the dampest and most humid room, so it is necessary that the ventilation here works properly. Otherwise you cannot avoid:Musty air, unpleasant odors, condensation and, as a result, the appearance of fungus, mold (unsafe for human health),
- appearance of rust on metal surfaces,
- destruction finishing materials(including darkening and cracking of the grout between tiles, and then chipping of the tile itself),
- “swelling” of furniture coverings (even from moisture-resistant materials).
If you notice mold, do not rush to buy dehumidifiers or special anti-fungal coatings. First, check the ventilation!
Fact 2. Blocking the ventilation hole in the bathroom is a no-no!
This is well known and undeniable. Complete blocking of exhaust ducts is justified only if forced supply and exhaust ventilation is installed in the house or apartment. 
Fact 3. Condensation on mirrors and walls is the first sign of poor ventilation.
If after water procedures mirrors in the bathroom “fog up”, and droplets of moisture remain on the walls for a long time - this is the first sign indicating that there are problems with the exhaust or supply.Do you open the doors and the condensation quickly disappears? This means the ventilation duct is working properly. Widen the opening between door leaf and floor, order special doors with ventilation holes, or simply leave the entrance to the bathroom open often to ensure air flow.
Does the humidity remain even with the doors wide open? Natural ventilation must be checked.
Fact 4. You can find out if the hood is working by experimenting with a napkin. At the same time, checking natural ventilation in the summer is pointless.
There is a common way to check ventilation. We open the door to the bathroom and bring a napkin to the ventilation grille. If it is attracted, the ventilation works. If not, open all the windows and doors and try again. Did you get the napkin? This means the problem is with insufficient inflow (surely you have sealed plastic windows).Does the napkin fall off even with the windows open? Problems with the hood. Perhaps the mine is clogged, you should contact the management company.
Fact 5. Poor draft may be caused by exhaust devices installed on the lower floors.
Another reason why air is not drawn out of the apartment may be fans or exhaust devices, installed at the neighbors below. The rapid flow in the ventilation shaft created by forced-air devices prevents natural ventilation from other apartments.In addition, on the upper floors, due to the pressure difference, ventilation works worse without any interference than on the lower ones.
In this case, an exhaust fan can provide ventilation. But under one condition, which is discussed below.
Fact 6. Neither the exhaust duct nor the fan will provide complete ventilation without inflow.
Intensive air exchange requires a balanced amount of both supply and exhaust air. That’s why we conduct the experiment with the napkin with open doors and windows!Insufficient inflow is often caused by plastic double glazed windows, sealed entrance doors, insulated walls. They prevent the flow of fresh air. And the exhaust moist air is not extracted from the bathroom, even with a working hood or when an exhaust fan is installed.
To establish natural ventilation or help forced ventilation, it is necessary to living rooms install air supply devices .
Fact 7. A warm floor without ventilation will not get rid of fungus in the bathroom.
Sometimes, in order to get rid of high humidity and mold in the bathroom, owners install heated floors and change heated towel rails.This can speed up the process of drying moisture and renewing air masses during the cold season. However, it will not help to completely get rid of the fungus if there are problems with ventilation.
Productivity is calculated using the following formula: the volume of the room (length, width and height), multiplied by the air exchange rate (for a bathroom, approximately from 4 to 8). For example, for a bathroom with an area of 2x2.5 m and a ceiling height of 2.7 m, the volume of the room is 13.5 cubic meters. We multiply by 4 and by 8. Find out the minimum and maximum power of the exhaust fan (54-108 cubic meters per hour).
Moreover, according to SNIP, the air exchange in a bathroom or toilet should be at least 25 m3/h, in a combined bathroom - up to 50 m3/h.
Fact 9: When installing an exhaust fan, it is necessary to place it as far from the entrance and as high as possible.
It is better to install a fan (or general ventilation diffusers) before finishing works,
to hide the wiring. Place it as high as possible, under the ceiling (or on the ceiling), ideally on the opposite wall from the entrance, so that the supply air has time to pass through the entire room before entering the hood. Fact 10. A non-return valve without proper ventilation can aggravate the situation.
A check valve is installed in the ventilation duct and prevents the occurrence of reverse draft (air movement from the street into the room), the entry of odors, dirt, and cold. But its installation is justified only if there is a working hood and an established inflow. Otherwise check valve it will simply block the channel (the cross-section will become even smaller, the air will not be able to be drawn out)!So, in order to establish ventilation in the bathroom you need to:
- organize an influx,- adjust the hood,
- and ensure free movement of air between rooms.
All this can be done either on your own (using appropriate ventilation equipment) or by ordering work from specialists.
Still have questions? Call. Our company carries out ventilation design, supply of devices and components, installation. We work in Yekaterinburg and Chelyabinsk. We provide a guarantee on both work and equipment.
The bathroom in an apartment or house is always a “wet place”. Even if you don't make puddles on the floor. Cold and hot water, steam, wet towels - everything evaporates moisture. It’s also hot in the bathroom and it creates a greenhouse effect.
Excess dampness and heat, ideally, should “go” into ventilation, but as you know, its effectiveness in city houses is far from normal. And both in the old building and in new buildings. The reason is that ventilation is natural throughout, that is, without additional exhaust.
In America, high-rise buildings have huge fans, but here the air is removed by gravity due to the difference in pressure and temperature. As a result, it moves only moderately, or even barely at all, if the houses are old and the canals are clogged.
And our “wet place”, the bathroom, is slowly acquiring all sorts of less useful flora and fauna in the form of fungus, mold and even woodlice. To get rid of such proximity or stop it in advance, you need to install an exhaust fan in the bathroom. It will draw out all the dampness where it should, and the attack in the form of unhelpful settlers will happily pass you by.
How to choose a fan for the bathroom and toilet
It seems that everything is simple, we decided that we need a fan, we go to the store and buy it. But only cats will be born quickly. A big surprise awaits you in the store from a bunch of types and models. Where there are several dozen, and where there are a couple of hundred. And you will be stuck over the question, “which fan to put in the bathroom?”
No wonder. Different types, power, models, installation methods, characteristics - the devil will break his leg in this variety of technical progress in the field of ventilation. Sellers even have a hard time sorting things out if the assortment is huge.
That's why we've put together a "guide to bathroom fans." To make your task easier and help you quickly purchase the necessary equipment. And first, let's deal with general characteristics bathroom fans
So, let's go!
1. Axial, centrifugal - what does it mean?
This is a type or type of fan. He talks about the design of the equipment and its operation.
Axial fan- This is a bladed impeller in a housing. The impeller is rotated by a motor on the rotor of which it is mounted. The blades are inclined inward relative to the plane of placement; they draw in air well and move it along a straight axis. Therefore, this type is called an axial fan. It has good performance, moderate noise, and is most often used for installation in the bathroom.
Centrifugal fan arranged differently. The air is sucked in by a turbine with blades. Inside the housing, the flow twists into a spiral and receives additional acceleration due to centrifugal force. The flow does not come out along a straight axis, but at an angle of 90 degrees. special device- snail. A centrifugal fan is also called a radial fan.
It has lower productivity compared to the axial one, but can “drive the flow” under pressure of varying strengths. The noise level is low or medium, depending on the direction of bending of the rotor blades. With the front bend it makes less noise, with the rear bend it makes more noise, but it saves energy.
2. Overhead or channel
Ventilation equipment is available for external and internal installation. The external type of installation is mounting on a wall or ceiling at the outlet of the ventilation hole into a shaft or into a pipe system. A duct fan is a built-in equipment that is placed inside a ventilation duct (air duct). Systems ventilation ducts Constructed from metal or plastic. Plastic ones are more often used for bathrooms. duct systems, for example, the company Vents.
Often the exit to the ventilation shaft is located in the toilet. For exhaust from the bathroom, an air duct with an intake grille is installed. The ventilation hose is pulled to the mine window. A duct fan with an additional grille is installed in the toilet. The hood simultaneously takes air from the entire bathroom and directs it into the ventilation shaft of the house. By design, external and duct fans are made both axial and centrifugal.
3. Choosing a bathroom fan based on power
The power level or performance of the fan is one of the main characteristics. In fact, the hood is chosen based on it, paired with the design (axial/centrifugal). The performance “tells” how many cubic meters of air the fan pumps per hour - 100, 200, 300.
To choose correct power, you need to calculate the volume of the bathroom and multiply it by 8. “Eight” means sanitary requirement to the number of air changes in the room per hour. Simply put, the fan needs to pump the volume of eight of your bathrooms. Then there will be cleanliness, beauty and no mold.
Example! For an urban standard bathroom with dimensions of 1.7x1.5x2.5m with an exchange ratio of 8, a productivity of 51 cubic meters per hour is needed. Axial fans are produced with a power of 80 cubic meters. This hood will cope with the task even with a reserve. The centrifugal model usually “drives” from 42 to 100 cubic meters per hour.
4. Choosing a fan for the bathroom based on noise level
It is clear that the hoods make noise, but not very much. If you want something completely quiet, take the axial model from the Silent line. Their design includes mounting the engine on silent blocks, which “dampen” noise and vibration. Among the “quiet” ones, you can choose a model with a noise level of even 22 dB.
Centrifugal engines are louder because the turbine pumps air under pressure. But they also make moderate noise, about the same as a cooler in a computer. It doesn’t stop you from watching movies, listening to music or playing games. Likewise, the fan will just be in the background if you are in the bathroom when it is on.
Attention! Noise is a secondary characteristic. The most important thing is that the hood “drives” the required volume of air for a good microclimate and fits the ventilation design.
5. Which fan is better for a bathroom or toilet - reviews of additional functions
Modern technology can do a lot, and fans are produced with different additional functions. Their list includes:
- Additional sensors. They measure humidity or react to movement.
- Sleep timer. It sets the shutdown delay time, minimum 2 minutes - maximum 30.
- Indicator light. Lights up while the fan is running.
- Pull cord switch. You can turn the hood on and off at the right time. For example, when you take a shower or bath. That is, when the light in the bathroom comes on, the fan does not automatically start.
- Automatic blinds. They are used to close the ventilation grille after the duct fan is turned off.
- Check valve. His main task is an obstacle to the penetration of foreign odors from the ventilation shaft.
According to reviews from our customers, most often they buy models with humidity sensors and a shutdown timer. The check valve, which blocks the flow of air from the shaft or duct back to the fan, has already become part of the structure. Very rarely it is sold separately and is considered an additional option.
6. Degree of moisture protection
All bathroom fans have increased moisture protection within 4-5, dust protection can be either zero or 3-4. The equipment passport will indicate IP X4, 34, 44, 45.
We've sorted out the characteristics, now let's talk about the range.
Fans for bathrooms and toilets in the catalog website
Our store offers well-known and popular brands of household bathroom fans:
| Soler & Palau | Blauberg | Fresh | Era | Vents | MMotors JSC |
Let's divide them into groups and get to know each other better.
1. For a city bathroom or standard-sized bathroom, the most popular type of exhaust fan is a model with a power of up to 100 m3/hour
The catalog contains:
Surface-mounted axial fans
Soler & Palau
| SILENT-100 CZ SILVER DESIGN-3C | SILENT-100 CZ GOLD | SILENT-100 CHZ | SILENT-100 CMZ |
| ECOAIR DESIGN 100H (with humidity sensor) | ECOAIR DESIGN 100 M (with lanyard) | ECOAIR DESIGN 100 S (base model) | EDM 80L |
| SILENT-100 CZ | |||
Power 65-95 m3, noise 26.5-33 dB, the basic Silent model has a check valve and quiet running bearings (CZ), other models can optionally be added - timer (R), humidity sensor (H), cord switch (M ). |
|||
Blauberg
MMotors JSC
Power 60 cubic meters, noise 25 dB, ultra-thin models with a thickness of 4 cm.
Duct axial fans
For installation in a round air duct, duct models are used. Among low-power ones we offer Bulgarian MMotors JSC
| BO 90 | BO 90T |
Power 50 m3, noise 36 dB, working temperature+100-150°C.
Centrifugal fans
Due to the design and the creation of additional traction, such hoods, even with low power, more efficient than axial ones. They cost more, so they are taken less often. Although "usefulness" centrifugal fan quickly pays for itself.
The main operating mode is minimum speed and minimum consumption energy. The hood works great for a long time in the background for routine cleaning. When the humidity rises, the maximum mode is switched on and the air in the bathroom is quickly replaced.
Among the centrifugal ones we offer a fan from the company Era
| SOLO 4C era |
Three-speed, capacity 42/64/100 m3, noise level 25.8-30 dB, equipped with a check valve and filter. Suitable for wall/ceiling installation and vent mounting.
2. In new houses, with large apartments, townhouses and cottages, the bathrooms are more spacious and for cleaning they are equipped with hoods with a capacity of 100 to 400 m3 per hour
The website catalog contains models:
Axial fans for wall or ceiling
Blauberg
| Aero Chrome 100 | Aero Still Vintage 125 | Aero Still Vintage 150 | Aero Still 125 |
| Aero Still 150 | Deco 100 (ceiling) |
Power 102, 154, 254 m3, noise level 31-33-38 dB, all models have a check valve, additional options are indicated by letter markings, T - with a timer, ST - with a cord and a timer. Ceiling ones have a power of 105 cubic meters and a noise level of 37 dB.
Soler & Polau
Capacity 175, 180, 280, 320 m3, noise level in the SILENT series 35-36 dB, in other models 42-47 dB.
Capacity 140-183, 250-290 m3, noise level 30-33, 36-38 dB.
Capacity 110-132m3, noise 17-22dB. New generation fans. Equipped smart system control, speed switching mode, sensors. They can work automatically using a built-in program or run in the selected mode via a smartphone or computer.
Duct hoods
Blauberg
| Tubo 100 | Tubo 125 | Tubo 150 | Turbo 100 |
| power 137, 245, 361 m3, noise level 38-39-40 dB. | two-speed, power 170/220 m3 per hour, noise level - 27/32 dB, wall or ceiling mounting. | ||
Soler & Palau
intellectual, maximum power 106 m3, in quiet mode - 72. noise level 31 dB (22 in quiet). Basic humidity control, timer, additional speed control - motion sensor operation. Suitable for non-stop ventilation at a capacity of up to 40 m3/hour.
Exhaust fan for the bathroom - the best option
If we talk about choice and answer the question, “which bathroom exhaust fan is best?” then there will be several optimal options:
- for a regular bathroom with a separate ventilation hole;
- for general ventilation of the bathroom;
- for a large bathroom.
The bathroom has direct access to the shaft
The best option is a wall-mounted axial fan with a power of up to 100 cubic meters per hour. Take Blauberg or Soler & Palau. Most models have a non-return valve; it will protect against backflow of air from the shaft when the hood is turned off. And during operation, it will quickly clean the air and do it very quietly (background sound within 25-33 dB).
Models with classic design by Blauberg
German hoods are quite a budget option, there are Spanish ones, both budget and expensive. Although their “expensiveness” is very relative. You take equipment that will work for ten years, or even more. So, let’s divide the price by the service life of the fan, and we get the cost of 10 lunches in a cafe, even for a hood for 6,300 rubles.
If the apartment is rented, or you just bought it in an old building and for now you plan to do without major repairs, take an inexpensive fan from Era:
| FAVORITE 4 | OPTIMA 4 |
The price is in the range of 400-500 rubles, they pull perfectly, they are of course louder than imported ones, but they will work like clockwork for 2-3 years.
General ventilation in the bathroom
If the exit to the shaft is in the toilet, you need to install an air duct and a duct fan for exhaust from the bathroom. The best option would be
| Tubo 100 from Blauberg | Silentub 100 from Soler&Palau | Silentub 200 from Soler&Palau |
They will quickly clean the bathroom of moisture and steam. Air intake from the bathroom and toilet will go through the ceiling grilles.
If you want to split the ventilation:
- Place it in the bathroom ceiling fan Deco 100. Its productivity is higher (105m3) than that calculated for a standard bathroom (51m3), but that’s how it should be. The hood will have to “drive” air through curved pipes, so you need a power reserve for quick air exchange.
- In pairs and for separate ventilation of the toilet, install a duct fan. The optimal model would be Vents iFan D100/125. It can operate in turbo mode with a capacity of 106 m3 and 72 cubic meters. In addition, there is a mode for constant ventilation, at a minimum power of up to 40 cubic meters per hour.
| Deco 100 | Vents iFan D100/125 |
Ventilation for a large bathroom
If the bathroom is large, choose powerful fan. Optimal options will be:
Axial external
| Aero Still Vintage 125 | INTELLIGENT White | SILENT-300 CHZ |
Duct
| Tubo 100 | TDM100 | PRO 4 | iFan D100/125 |
Centrifugal
| SOLO 4C |
Take external and duct axial fans with a power reserve, this way they clean the air faster both directly into the exhaust shaft and through the hose. Centrifugal creates increased pressure and a large capacity reserve is not needed.
To install a hood in the bathroom you will have to complete three stages of work.
1. Lay the cable from the switch
A three-core cable is needed, for example, VVG 3X1.5 mm2. It is best to “throw it” in the corrugation under the tiles and in the wall if the finishing of the bathroom is not yet finished. If the bathroom is finished, then we lay the corrugated cable along the main ceiling, you can additionally take a cable channel. We’ll hide all this “good” behind a hanging or suspended ceiling, after installing and connecting the hood.
2. Secure the fan
When the cable is laid, you need to install the fan in place. The outer one is fixed on top of the wall, the duct inside the ventilation hole. Please note that the standard hole width is 10 cm, just for the insertion of fans with a size marking of 100 mm (diameter of the flange or the device itself). This clearance is designed for the passage of air with a volume of up to 100 cubic meters per hour. The power of hoods connected to the hundredth pipe “fits” into this requirement or slightly exceeds it, by 10-15 m3.
Fans with greater productivity are connected to air ducts with a diameter of 125 mm or 150-160 mm, and the hole will have to be expanded. Otherwise, the hood or flange simply will not fit into the gap.
Food for thought! Is it possible to install an adapter from larger to smaller diameter for an outdoor fan? It's possible, but it's not necessary. You will get a decent gap between the hood body and the wall. The gap will prevent the fan from being properly secured. In addition, moisture will settle on the back panel, which is not pressed against the wall, and dust will collect. And by “cutting” the width of the lumen, you are also “cutting” the channel capacity. The relationship between channel diameter and fan performance was not chosen by chance. Your unfortunate hood will try to cram 150-200 cubes where only a hundred can “fit.”
Installing a fan in the bathroom - installation methods
The hood can be installed different ways. Attach the overhead to the wall with self-tapping screws or glue it, insert the duct directly into the hole and secure it, or first install the pipe into the gap, and “fix” the fan already in it.
To install an overhead hood, remove the front panel, which is secured with a screw at the end or plastic latches. To install with self-tapping screws, mark the holes on the wall with a pencil, then drill and insert dowels. Attach the fan and tighten the screws.
For fastening with glue or liquid nails, apply it along the edge of the housing on the fan and on the wall. In order not to miss on the wall, trace the contour of the hood and coat it with glue inside the rectangle, slightly stepping back from the edge. Press and secure with masking (mounting) tape so that the glue sets.
Note! We do not recommend using regular tape because it may leave marks on the wall and the fan itself.
Lead the power cable out into a special hole before fastening it. If it is located inconveniently, you can drill your own in the right place. The front panel is put in place after connecting the power cable.
to install duct hood, use a piece of air duct of equal diameter, into which a fan with a protrusion is placed. The hood body “fits” tightly into the round channel and is fixed without additional fasteners.
If the body has no protrusions, then it is secured in the pipe with self-tapping screws through special grooves. For such fans, it is more convenient to first insert the hood into a piece of the air duct, secure it, remove the cable, and then install the entire assembly into the ventilation hole and secure it with foam.
For models with fasteners on the body, the insert is not needed. The fan is simply screwed to the wall of the hole.
3. Connect the bathroom fan to the switch
Connecting power to the hood is the most critical step. A damp room requires mandatory installation of a grounded cable. Therefore, use a three-core VVG for one and a half squares (3x1.5 mm2), as for lighting in the bathroom. Electric power fans are not high, usually within 14 Watt, and a cross-section of 1.5 square is enough to operate the hood without overheating the cable.
A grounding wire is required to separate the working zero into the N bus and the grounding zero into PE. Even if you have an apartment in an old building and there is no grounding loop, a PE bus is installed in the panel to connect the “ground”. This increases the safety of your electrical wiring and prevents you from getting electrocuted.
How to connect a fan in the bathroom is up to you. If you want to ventilate longer, put the switch on two keys and separate the lighting and ventilation.
The connection diagram via a two-key switch will look like this:
The single-button switch circuit is suitable for infrequent bathroom use, e.g. one-room apartment with one tenant. The hood turns on with the light and turns off the same way. For additional ventilation, you will have to leave the light on. It won’t generate many kilowatt-hours because of this, unless you fall asleep. But even there, the “lion’s share” will be behind the fan, and not the light bulbs in the bathroom.
The connection diagram with a single-key switch looks like this:
Both schemes are suitable for hoods without additional functions.
Connecting a fan with a timer and other sensors
We will tell you in more detail how to connect a fan with a timer and other sensors to a switch in the bathroom. The main difference in the circuit is that the timer receives separate power to start the hood based on a signal from a triggered humidity sensor, motion, or the signal from the timer itself in models with delayed start. Simply put, the fan goes to separate phase/neutral wires to the motor and to the timer. The motor circuit is connected to the fan switch button, and the timer circuit is connected to the light switch, and is “activated” as soon as the bathroom lights come on. If a two-key switch is used. You can turn on this hood yourself with a key, or it will work automatically using the built-in timer.
If the switch is common, then the circuit will be different. When the light is turned on, only the hood timer will receive power, and when it fires, the fan motor circuit will close.
In models without a timer with a humidity sensor, the power is “turned on” to it.
As you can see, the connection diagrams are quite simple, but do not forget about the installation rules - we connect the wires at the terminals, without twists or protruding ends. We make connections in the distribution box or in recessed socket boxes. We put the front panel and insect screen in the overhead fans in place correctly, without distortions.
Let's sum it up
What to do if the “guide” helped, but you still have doubts? Contact us!
Each bathroom is characterized by a high level of humidity. In order to prevent such phenomena as the formation of mold or mildew, it is worth checking the serviceability of the ventilation system or installing additional equipment. Very often, many people have a question about how to make ventilation in the toilet with their own hands.
It’s easy to check the ventilation: a sheet of paper attached to ventilation hole, must not fall.
To prevent mold from growing on surfaces, there are several options for combating it:
- insulate all surfaces - this method will prevent the formation of condensation;
- Very effective method is a forced ventilation device.
Cleaning natural ventilation
To clean the ventilation from dust and debris, use a brush with a long flexible handle.
If the natural ventilation system in the toilet does not work well, it is worth cleaning the ducts. To do this, it is worth removing all accumulated dust and cobwebs from the channel. To carry out this procedure, you should use a brush with a long flexible handle.
Professionals who clean ventilation ducts may use a more dangerous cleaning option that uses gas canister with flammable liquid. This method involves burning the dust. Carrying out such a procedure on your own without experience is strictly prohibited; it is better to entrust everything to specialists.
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Forced ventilation
In order for high-quality air exchange to occur in the toilet, it is worth making ventilation that will work automatically. This is very important to ensure that air with heavy odors and fumes does not penetrate into living spaces. The forced one must be equipped with its own exhaust duct. The owner will be presented with a choice of ceiling and wall-mounted ventilation systems.
Diagram of general ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.
For the toilet room, it is worth choosing a supply and exhaust system as forced ventilation. Such a system will regularly circulate air in the room. In addition, it does not involve cutting out an additional ventilation duct, which could subsequently compromise the strength and reliability of the wall.
Ventilation in the toilet, built with your own hands, is quite a simple matter, the main thing is to understand all the nuances. The need for ventilation often arises at a time when natural ventilation does not perform its basic functions well.
This problem is especially evident in the summer, this is due to the fact that the temperature outside and inside the room is almost the same, and the Bernoulli effect does not work. Also, the deterioration of natural ventilation is due to the fact that plastic windows are installed in apartments and houses, which hermetically seal the rooms and prevent the penetration of fresh air. Also, doors that close tightly prevent air from entering the toilet area. This problem is especially noticeable on the upper floors. high-rise buildings, where the temperature outside in summer is significantly higher than indoors. This problem is less noticeable on the lower floors, where the temperature difference remains even at minimum levels.
Alternatively it can be installed automatic system hoods, in which case the air will be forced out of the room to the outside. But it is worth considering, due to the lack of air in the room maximum efficiency such a system will not be achieved.
The best option is to make ventilation in the toilet a supply and exhaust type.
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What may be required during the work process
Connection diagram for fan to light switch.
In order to make ventilation in the toilet with your own hands, you should purchase everything necessary tools and materials. Everything you need can be bought in a special department hardware store. It’s worth buying everything at once, having previously drawn up a plan according to which it will be installed coercive system ventilation.
Examples of materials for creating forced ventilation:
- tin boxes - today they come in a variety of shapes;
- plastic boxes;
- flexible air ducts, which are made in the form of a flexible aluminum pipe;
- corrugated plastic pipes;
- flexible plastic air ducts;
- fans;
- recuperators.
In order to carry out installation work When installing a ventilation system, it is worth preparing the necessary equipment:
- tape measure and pencil for marking;
- hacksaw and scissors;
- construction knife;
- hammer for driving dowels;
- drill and screwdriver;
- screwdriver with different attachments;
- fastenings - dowels, screws, self-tapping screws.
IN winter time years, it is very important to equip the ventilation system with supply valves.
Scheme for turning on a fan from a light switch with a timer.
This element is a regular hole in the wall with a pipe with one or two doors. The placement of the valves can be done manually or automatically. For maximum comfort, such a hole is located behind the convector or heating radiator.
This arrangement increases draft and simultaneously warms the air. This will allow you to use the ventilation system without additional fans. One valve is enough to ensure normal air exchange in one room. In order to protect the room from the penetration of debris, it is worth installing a grill.
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The use of recuperators in the ventilation system
For the toilet room after all the best option will equip the system with a special fan, which will significantly improve the performance of the entire system. This is especially necessary for the summer period. Modern technologies go forward, and one of modern elements, which can be equipped with a ventilation system, is a recuperator. This device will circulate air regardless of the weather conditions outside. In order to install a supply and ventilation system, you must:
Scheme air handling unit with heat recuperator and supply air filtration.
- 4 holes, which are connected in pairs with special components “street - room”, “room - street”;
- The main essence of the system is that fresh air it is taken directly from the street and supplied to the premises, and the waste is discharged outside;
- recuperators are equipped with special filters that clean the incoming air from dust;
- recuperators operate automatically or using a control system.
