On any garden plot this ornamental shrub will find its place, complementing it bright colors And abundant flowering. A climbing rose will give you beauty only if you work hard.
Climbing rose arch
Reproduction and rooting of climbing roses
Climbing roses are propagated by cuttings and layering.
When growing by layering, the best shoots are selected. A ditch is dug near the bush, its bottom is loosened, humus is poured and the selected shoot is laid vertically, which is covered with earth and then watered. In spring, the shoot should have roots, after which it is cut off from the main bush. For successful rooting and survival, it is better to prevent the young bush from flowering by picking the buds.
How to root a climbing rose
Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings is faster and easier. When the roses fade, cuttings with 3-4 buds 15-20 cm long are cut from the middle of the stem. The lower leaves are removed from them, and then the cuttings need to be buried in the shade, the planting depth is 5-6 cm. The plantings are well watered.
Rooting climbing roses works well without the use of rooting agents. All that is required next is the removal of weeds, periodic loosening and watering.
Caring for a climbing rose
In summer, climbing roses require rare but abundant watering, pruning and fertilizing. The soil under the bush should not dry out. Feed climbing roses need mineral and organic fertilizers. You can achieve additional flowering of roses by pruning faded branches.
At the first frost, the bush spuds up, is removed from the support and the lashes are pressed to the ground. You can cover the shoots for the winter wooden boxes, dry leaves or covering material.
Pruning of climbing roses is done twice: in the spring, poorly overwintered shoots are removed, and in the fall, weak shoots that will find it difficult to withstand frosts are removed. In autumn, shoots are also shortened by 25-30 cm.
Climbing rose garter
It is clear that climbing roses require some kind of support; they should not creep along the ground. Pergolas, arches, trellises, gazebos, etc. can be used as a support for roses.
The garter is made with a non-sharp material - rope, wire, thread. The canes are attached diagonally, spirally or horizontally to allow side branches to grow unhindered.
Problems and diseases of climbing roses
It happens that climbing roses rarely bloom or there is no flowering at all, which is one of the problems. The reason for the rose not to bloom may be poor overwintering of the shoots, and not yet pruning of faded branches.
The next problem is yellowing of the leaves. This is caused by a lack of nutrients (iron, nitrogen, etc.), as well as an excess of fertilizers.
Pests also love roses: spider mite, leaf-eating insects, sawflies, thrips, aphids. This requires timely treatment of the bushes with special preparations.
Climbing roses are damaged by various diseases: bark cancer, fusarium, powdery mildew, black spot, etc. They will help fight diseases effective drugs, of which there are many. They eliminate diseases and prevent new lesions from appearing.
Climbing roses after flowering
Starting in September, climbing roses in the garden begin to prepare for winter. Watering is reduced, potassium fertilizers are used instead of nitrogen fertilizers, and the soil around the bushes is no longer loosened. The tops of shoots that are not fully ripened need to be cut off. In order for climbing roses to overwinter normally, they need to be removed from the support, laid on the ground, and then covered with covering material. There should be no problems with arranging young roses. Old bushes are laid gradually, it may even take 5-7 days. You need to do this before frost, because... at negative temperatures shoots become especially brittle and fragile.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter
To prepare climbing roses for winter temperatures, they need to be covered only when the air temperature drops to -5 ºC. If you cover it earlier, it can either dry out or grow due to lack of air. Leaves from the branches, if any remain, must be removed, the branches themselves must be bent to the ground, and diseased or pest-damaged shoots must be cut off. The branches are carefully tied and laid on fir branches or on covering material. The branches are also covered on top.
Climbing roses in winter
In winter, you can periodically open the roses and let them breathe fresh air for a while. The film is removed at the end of spring, when stable warming occurs, leaving only spruce branches.
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Long branches strewn with luxurious roses have always aroused the admiration of gardeners. For landscape design at vertical gardening The climbing rose garden is a real find. They can be combined with a wide variety of architectural forms. Any gardener’s dream of original transformations on the site can come true if he grows climbing roses.
These flowers are the leader in vertical gardening. With their help you can bring many things to life interesting ideas, including decorate all kinds of pyramids, arches, garlands, columns. Make a “living” wall along the gazebos, verandas, fences, balconies. And compositions of several varieties of such roses look completely unusual.
Climbing roses are mainly grown in regions where the climate is mild and warm. In places with a harsher climate, plants will have to be insulated during the winter.
All climbing roses are divided into three groups.
- A climbing or true climbing rose with arched and fairly flexible stems. The length of such plants depends on the variety. They can be from one and a half to five meters. Their flowers are quite small, of various colors, double or semi-double. The thorns are thin and crooked, the shoots are green and very bright. Flowers of this group collected in inflorescences bloom very profusely for up to thirty days. Mostly in early summer. They have very small, shiny, leathery leaves. The varieties of these climbing roses are quite winter-hardy and even under light cover they can overwinter.
- This group was obtained as a result of crossings with tea, remontant and hybrid tea roses. New varieties are very interesting and popular. Their shoots reach a height of up to four meters. These climbing roses are often called "climbing" roses. Their flowers are large, collected in inflorescences. They can often bloom again during the season. They have high winter hardiness and disease resistance.
- Group resulting from mutations spray roses with large flowers. Another name for them is “climbing”. They have strong growth, bright and large flowers. However they come to fruiting later than others. Their flowers are from four to eleven centimeters, solitary. Unfortunately, such roses can only grow in countries and areas with a mild and warm climate.
Even though climbing roses have long shoots, they are called "shrubs". However, planting and caring for these plants differs from other types of roses. In order for the long vines of a plant to look aesthetically pleasing, you need to know how to properly care for them.
Landing Features
To get a beautiful, chic bush of climbing roses, you should start with proper planting.
Plants love moderate light. In a place exposed to the sun all day, the rose petals will burn out and the stems will get burned. Lack of sun will slow down the ripening of new shoots which should bloom next year. It is best to choose a place where Sun rays will be in the morning. They will warm the rose, the dew will evaporate from them and the plants will not be afraid of such a disease as “powdery mildew”.
Roses do not tolerate drafts. Therefore, it is better not to plant them, for example, on the corners of buildings.
Large areas for plants are not necessary. Land with an area of fifty by fifty centimeters will be enough for them.
A well-climbing rose develops on permeable soils. This means that water (irrigation or rain) should not linger in the area where the roots are located. Because of this, the root system will begin to rot and the plant will die from lack of nutrition. If the area is too close to the ground surface groundwater, That Roses should be planted at higher elevations. If this is not possible, then you can dig a hole that will not reach groundwater and concrete its bottom. After all, fill the hole with fertile soil and plant the plant.
Climbing roses grow best in loam soils. They are water- and breathable, therefore they provide the root system with fairly good nutrition.
If the site has sandy soil, then clay can be added to it, and clayey soil should be mixed with sand. Wherein the soil should also be fertilized with humus or humus, as well as phosphorus fertilizers.
Plants should be planted so that they do not shade each other. This is usually done in a checkerboard pattern. Such hedge will be decorative all summer, even when the roses fade.
Bushes for planting should be selected healthy, without visible damage. Remove crushed, broken and rotten parts of roots. To disinfect, powder the cuts with crushed charcoal. Then the wounds on the roots will not rot.
It is best to prepare the soil for planting climbing roses several weeks in advance. Add humus, lime and peat to the holes. The hole for a new bush should be such that the roots are freely placed there and the neck is deepened by ten centimeters. This will protect it from the winter cold (with ordinary shelter at such a depth, the temperature does not drop below minus two degrees). This deepening of the neck also promotes the formation of additional roots.
The roots in the hole are spread onto the fertile soil and covered with it. There shouldn't be any voids. After the bush is planted, the earth around it is compacted with feet.
For better survival, you can water the sprouts of climbing roses with heteroauxin or phosphorobacterin.
Before planting the bush, its roots and shoots can be trimmed to a length of twenty to thirty centimeters. That's what they do experienced gardeners so that the root system of the climbing rose becomes powerful. The shoots must be lubricated with garden varnish to prevent any infection from getting to them.
Caring for “first-year children”
If climbing rose seedlings are planted in the spring, they can create a greenhouse effect so that the damaged rose roots are restored and take root well. For this bushes cover plastic film
, under which a humid microclimate will be maintained. Just be sure to ventilate such a greenhouse every day for at least a few minutes. The plant needs access to fresh air. The ventilation time is gradually increased, and after two weeks the film is removed completely.
Planted seedlings do not need fertilizing in the first year of life, since they have enough of what was put into the holes along with the soil.
To prepare the bushes for winter dormancy, they need to be fed with a solution of potassium salts at the end of summer or beginning of autumn.
Caring for mature bushes
The next year after planting, the climbing rose does not require much care. She needs rare, but abundant watering and fertilizing. Roses are watered once every eight or ten days. Fertilizers applied during planting are used within two years. But in the following years It will be necessary to fertilize roses, especially with organic fertilizers. It will be possible to feed roses with various special mineral fertilizers. During the growth period, about five fertilizations with fertilizers are required annually, alternating them.
The soil around the plant is mulched with straw, humus, grass, and sawdust. Faded rose branches are pruned in order to stimulate additional flowering. Don't forget to remove weeds around roses. Weak branches are cut off.
After the snow has melted, plant debris must be removed and destroyed. This is necessary so that there is no recurrence of the bush disease, if, perhaps, the rose was infected with some kind of disease last year.
Even before the buds open, it is necessary to spray the plant against pests with pesticides. If no pests or diseases were observed last year, then for prevention, you can spray with modern special preparations.
After the soil has completely dried out, it is loosened or dug with a pitchfork to a depth of twenty-five centimeters.
If observed fungal diseases roses, then it is advisable to dig up the soil with the turnover of a layer of earth. This is how pests that overwintered in the top layer of soil are destroyed.
After processing, the soil around the bushes should be sprinkled with compost, humus or humus. This will replenish the microelements that are necessary for the growth and flowering of the climbing rose.
Protection from diseases
Climbing roses are susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew and bark cancer.
Powdery mildew is especially effective in humid, hot weather. Specks appear on rose leaves white, which may increase over time. The rose bush first stops blooming, then grows, and eventually dies. Treat powdery mildew Bordeaux mixture. Spray should be done twice at intervals of several days.
When coverings are removed in the spring, bark cancer may be found on rose bushes. Many small bright brown spots appear on the shoots. Over time, they grow, turn black and tightly encircle the entire shoot. You can save the entire bush only by removing the diseased part, while also capturing some of the healthy part. The material that is cut must be burned! Darkness and humidity are a favorable environment for this fungus. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the rose and remove the covering material from it in a timely manner. In the fall, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is best replaced with potassium fertilizers.
Pest protection
The most common pests for any roses are aphids and spider mites. If there are still a few pests, then you can save the bush with herbs. For example, within twenty minutes boil horsetail or nettle and spray the leaves of the bush with the cooled solution. This should be done twice with a break of several days. If this method does not help, then insecticide intervention is required.
Trimming
The purpose of pruning rose bushes is to improve the health of the crown, form the bush, and obtain abundant and long flowering.
Pruning is carried out at the end of summer, that is, when the plant has already faded. First of all, you should cut out damaged and diseased branches. If replacement shoots appear on a branch, then the old branches are also removed. New ones are not deleted. Two-year-old shoots are not pruned either. Next summer they will bear the bulk of the flowers.
Garter of whips
The sooner you start staking, the less trouble the plant will cause, and it will grow in the direction desired by the gardener. When forming a climbing rose, you do not need to strive to ensure that all its main branches grow upward. It may happen that all the leaves and flowers of the bush end up on the top of the plant, which is not very aesthetically pleasing. To avoid this, it is better to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Soon shoots will appear in them, growing upward. This principle of formation will ensure long-lasting and luxurious flowering., covering a wall or disguising something.
It will be enough to twist the branches of a climbing rose only in a spiral around a pillar or arch if the bush is planted near them.
Reproduction
Climbing roses are propagated in two ways.
Cuttings. Cuttings with at least four buds are taken from the middle of the shoots. Material should only be cut from a faded plant. The cuttings will need to be planted in the shade. in well-fertilized soil. Normal development of the seedling will be ensured by regular watering and loosening of the soil.
By layering. This method of propagation is used in the spring. Select a shoot and press it to the ground, securely securing it and covering part of the trunk with soil. When watering flowers, you should also water the attached shoot. For next year in the spring it is necessary to cut off the grown baby from mother plant. The result is a rooted specimen that can be planted separately in the soil.
Frost protection
To protect a climbing rose from frost, the following requirements must be met:
It is very important in the spring to remove all coverings in time so that rose bushes in a humid environment without fresh air do not get sick and suffocate. After the cover is removed, branches should be attached horizontally to the support. In this case, climbing roses will direct their fresh energy to the formation of new flowers pleasing to the eye.
The best varieties of climbing roses are indispensable for vertical gardening. It’s one thing - an arch or on summer cottage surrounded flower beds and it’s completely different if these structures are decorated with climbing plants. And if there are also climbing plants that bloom throughout warm season, then small architectural forms take on a completely different look. In order for the plants to clearly follow all the curves of the support, you need to know how to properly trim climbing roses and how to tie them up correctly.
Description of beautiful climbing roses and their photos
As the name and description of climbing roses suggest, these plants have long shoots, lashes up to 5 meters or more, which do not have their own entwining organs such as tendrils. Therefore, they need an auxiliary device in the form of a frame.
Pay attention to the photo of beautiful climbing roses - they decorate walls and fences, arches and pergolas:
These plants are divided into two groups: once flowering and repeat flowering:
- The first are strong-growing climbing vines with very lush and abundant flowering. Their flowers are small, collected in heavy clusters. The varieties of these roses belong to the rambler group. They bloom in June for a month. The inflorescences are large, consisting of 30-40 small flowers, appearing only on last year's shoots. Before late autumn the bushes retain their delicate greenery.
- The climber group includes varieties of large-flowered climbing roses obtained from crossing rambler roses with roses and. They have thicker shoots up to 3.5 m long and bloom on the shoots of the current year continuously until late autumn, but the flowering is not so abundant.
Repeatedly or continuously flowering climbing roses come in many varieties with large or small flowers, fragrant or not, drooping or looking up.
Below you will find photos and descriptions of the most popular varieties of climbing roses:
How to properly trim and tie a climbing rose (with photo)
All these plants are a spectacular sight. At correct pruning climbing roses and tying them up, they retain their decorative effect for a long time.
Here you will learn how to prune and tie up a climbing rose in your garden:
- Once-flowering bushes form very long shoots and take up a lot of space, not only in height, but also in width.
- By bending young branches down and tying them horizontally, we stimulate powerful shoot growth and vigorous flowering the following year along the entire length of the stem.
- U re blooming roses at the end wilted flowers remove to the first whole leaf facing outwards. It is especially important to remove faded flowers after the first wave of flowering, because new shoots will grow and bloom from the buds in the leaf axils.
- Before pruning a climbing rose, dry, diseased and very thin shoots are removed. The main pruning of old branches is carried out annually in the spring.
Watch the video “Pruning climbing roses” to better understand the intricacies of this agricultural technique:
The use of these roses in the garden significantly increases the area of green space.
The garter of climbing roses should be done as horizontally as possible, since the most a large number of flower buds are formed on the upper side of horizontally located shoots.
Here you can see in the photo how to tie up a climbing rose to ensure its active growth:
Modern varieties of climbing roses are based on different types wild roses with long shoots. At the end of the flowering period, partially or completely faded shoots are cut out from roses.
The minimum distance between plantings is 120-150 cm, so that during the growth period, healthy, well-developed shoots do not have to be cut out due to thickening. Vigorous varieties need 200-250 cm.
The best time for planting, especially in the south, is autumn (October). Among these plants there are those that successfully grow as vines on the northern wall of buildings.
Popular varieties of the best climbing roses
Read the description of varieties of climbing roses popular for growing in middle lane:
"Crimson Rambler". The ancestor of many varieties of climbing roses is the Crimson Rambler variety, which gained fame back in 1899. This variety has long, powerful arched shoots. From mid-summer, their upper half is covered with a mass of pyramidal inflorescences consisting of densely double, bright crimson flowers. This variety is one-time, but very abundant flowering.
"Excelsa". A popular climbing rose with flowers 3 - 3.5 cm in diameter collected in large dense inflorescences. The petals are bright carmine with a lilac tint, numerous - up to 70-90 pieces. Flowering is abundant and long lasting. The leaves are dark green and shiny. The bushes are vigorous. The shoots are long, up to 4 m, thin and flexible. Advantages include winter hardiness and resistance to powdery mildew.
"Super Excelsa"- a variety similar to Excelsa. The difference is the repeated abundant flowering.
"Dorothy Perkins". The Dorothy Perkins variety has an extended flowering period. It has shiny, as if varnished, leaves, semi-double flowers of pink and white color.
Closely related to this variety are “Paul Scarlet Climber” with bright red flowers and “Excelsa” with crimson flowers. bright flowers. The variety “New Down” has light pink flowers with a delicate aroma; the bush itself is wide, spreading, with arched shoots lying on the ground without a garter.
Variety "Aloe" It not only has continuous flowering, but its densely double flowers are fragrant and luxurious.
"Westerland"- a variety from the group of semi-climbing roses. Very fragrant double flowers (up to 30 petals) have a diameter of 10 cm, they are bright orange with a copper tint, collected in large inflorescences. The leaves are bright green, shiny, large. Bushes up to 1.5 m high, shoots grow vertically. Advantages include frost resistance, abundant and long-lasting flowering.
"New Down". Delicate pink flowers, up to 7 cm in diameter, double (25-35 petals), very fragrant, 3-6 flowers in an inflorescence. The bushes are vigorous (up to 2 m high), dense. The leaves are small and shiny. Blooms profusely and remontantly. The variety is winter-hardy. Used in groups and for vertical gardening.
Other varieties are often found in amateur gardens:
"Polka", with orange fragrant flowers and remontant flowering.
"Caesar"- with flowers creamy yellow on the outside and pink on the inside.
"Swan Lake"- one of the most beautiful climbing roses with white double flowers, blooming throughout the summer and until late autumn.
"Lev Tolstoy". The color is red. The diameter of the flower is 13 cm. The height of the bush is up to 3-3.5 m.
"Rimosa"- with bright yellow double flowers, abundant and repeated flowering, and a strong pleasant aroma.
"Lutea Plena". The flowers are creamy-yellow, 2.6 cm in diameter, cup-shaped, double (52 petals), fragrant, in dense umbellate corymbs. Up to 3.5 m high, with long flexible shoots without thorns, covered with evergreen shiny leaves. Resistant to and.
"Goldstern". One of the most good varieties climbing roses with pure golden flowers yellow color, non-fading, persistent, goblet-shaped, 8-10 cm in diameter. They are collected in densely double (up to 55 petals), inflorescences of 2-3 pieces, weakly fragrant. Can be single. The leaves are large, leathery, dark green. The bushes are dense, straight, well branched, up to 2.5 m high. Blooms profusely, repeatedly, all summer. The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to adverse weather conditions and diseases.
"Ash Wednesday". This single-blooming climbing rose is usually white, but its delicate color has many shades: from grayish to milky. If the weather in May is cold, a brighter color is possible; if it is already hot and sunny, a grayish-lavender hue is possible.
"Rimosa Climbing". The flowers are bright yellow, fading to lemon-colored in hot weather. They appear one at a time or up to 7 pieces, opening to reveal golden stamens. Flowering is very abundant. The diameter of the flower is 7-9 cm. The height of the bush is up to 4 m.
Using climbing roses in the garden, you can create a wall that divides the garden into parts. The abundance of flowers, the beautiful color of the petals - all this makes roses plants unsurpassed in their splendor.
Climbing rose in the garden interior
garden rose considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents claim that a climbing rose requires special attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. About proper care We will talk about the climbing rose, the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.
Dates for planting roses in Russia
Planting of climbing roses in the Moscow region and central Russia is carried out in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds begin to bloom. According to observations, climbing roses planted in spring have a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings on average for 14 days.
Planting climbing roses in summer is recommended for self-rooted plants (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) in containers with a closed root system. Beginning gardeners are advised to purchase them, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding in terms of care, especially in terms of shelter for the winter.
Planting climbing roses in the south is carried out in the fall, until mid-October. After just 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root shoots. In winter, the young rhizome will harden, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the above-ground part and form a strong bush.
Site selection and site preparation
The ideal place for planting climbing roses is a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope to drain rain and melt water or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and lack of sun and ventilation will lead to fungus.
For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial hill. To the bottom landing pit They place a large stone, which prevents the roots from going deeper and they begin to grow horizontally. A climbing rose, planted using this technology, requires additional protection root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched with tree bark or sawdust.
If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses requires the presence of a room on the site for moving the bushes to winter storage. A dry heated basement or garage, insulated veranda or terrace are suitable for this purpose.
Repeated planting of roses in one place is not advisable.
A place where roses have previously grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. If there is no alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.
The soil for planting in spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 are most suitable for climbing roses.
Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leaf soil are added to the clay soil (6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, turf soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg is also added to the earth mixture wood ash, half a kilo of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilo of chalk, depending on the pH of the soil.
Climbing rose - perennial with powerful roots that should be located freely. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.
Upper layer The soil is set aside and the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small crushed stone, and a prepared earthen mixture is laid on top 40 cm high, which is sprinkled with the deposited layer of soil.
Climbing roses planting and care
Saplings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planting in the spring, the rose shoot is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to 25 cm of living white tissue and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.
The prepared plant is dipped into a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure for an hour. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Bud or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are pre-diluted in 0.5 water.
The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can take root. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and that no air voids are formed when covered with soil. Caring for climbing roses in summer involves carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, leaving no stumps, unnecessary cuts or damage.
After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. To water self-rooted climbing roses, use a mixture, dissolving a tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is hilled and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, place a support for further garter. Climbing roses planted in spring are covered with film for 2 weeks for better restoration and adaptation of the roots.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, plants do not require feeding. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed and the stems are treated with a 3% solution iron sulfate.
Climbing rose planting and care video
Caring for a climbing rose after flowering
To give the bush the desired shape From the second year after planting in the ground, they begin pruning. A climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always pruned according to general rule, regardless of the variety, the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.
In place of the old ones, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.
Caring for remontant varieties of roses
Roses of remontant varieties are thinned out in early spring and after flowering has ended. Strong formative pruning is carried out before the end of June so that the young shoots have time to mature before winter. In a later procedure, they may die.
Photos and detailed description climbing varieties you will find roses in our material.
Shelter for the winter and caring for roses in the spring
Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: by untying and bending it to the ground or by securing it to a support.
An unsupported way to shelter for the winter
The bush is untied from the support. It is bent to the ground at a slight angle and covered with spruce branches.
The top is wrapped in fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not allow water to pass through. The soil under the plant is covered with dry soil and mulched with fallen leaves.
Method of shelter on a support
The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofibre or burlap and secured with twine.
Removing winter cover and spring care
In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is inspected for diseases and damage, cutting off the affected area if necessary.
Areas with mold are treated with 15% copper sulfate, and the stems are tied horizontally to the support to reduce the formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just at the top.
Climbing roses, planted and cared for according to all the rules, require a mandatory garter:
- For tying, choose plastic or silicone twine, rather than wire wrapped in paper. It disintegrates over time due to moisture, and metal can damage the plant;
- The binding should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
- Supports must be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.
Keep an eye on the supports and garter
It is important to remember that poor-quality support or poor twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.
Bottom line
It is not so difficult to grow an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your own garden, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to planting rules and proper care climbing plant will delight you with its gorgeous buds for many years.
