Before the onset of cold weather, every gardener thinks about how to properly prepare his site for winter. After all, each individual plant needs appropriate care, and its adequate organization is the primary task of the economic farmer. Extremely important role plays the correct insulation of trees, which can suffer from frost, strong winds and temperature changes. Let's talk on www.site about how to prepare a near-stem circle of fruit trees for the winter, and also answer the question: soil mulching - what is it?
In order to fruit trees we successfully endured the winter, we need to do something. Trees need to be treated with special preventive solutions, the near-trunk zone should also be mulched and small fences should be built near the trees. Today, the topic of our conversation will be directly the preparation of the trunk circle.
Preparing the trunk circle for winter
Before proceeding directly to the insulation of tree trunks, it is worth eliminating all weeds around them. Next, you need to dig the earth ten to fifteen centimeters deep, otherwise the weeds may well germinate in the spring. Also, such digging will help to destroy the roots close to the surface, through which frost can go deeper. Then carry out preventive treatment of boles and skeletal branches of the tree with protective solutions.
Mulching tree trunks
The most effective way to save trees in winter time it is customary to consider mulching - covering the soil surface near plants with a variety of materials that are able to regulate water and air regimes in the uppermost layers of the soil. In winter, mulch helps to reduce the depth of soil freezing. At other times of the year, such material makes it possible to retain moisture, avoid the appearance of weeds, saturate the soil with nutrients and ensure long-term friability of the soil.
Mulch or mulching material in general can be divided into two most basic groups, namely permanent and dynamic. The first group can include stone chips, gravel, as well as glass and other similar materials. They, admittedly, are characterized by more decorative qualities, although they help somewhat protect the soil. The second group is represented by foliage, peat, hay, bark (ground), sawdust, compost, etc. Such a mulch can not only protect the soil, but also effectively enrich it with useful particles.
Manure and humus can be used to cover tree trunks around trees. Also, many gardeners use spruce branches and burlap, matting and synthetic covering materials, represented by lutrasil, spunbond, etc., for this purpose. Many mulching materials can be found on the market.
Mulching trees for the winter can be done with moss. Such material is able to retain heat, so it is often used in intensive gardens. Since moss retains heat, the soil under it practically does not freeze, which is especially important for all crops with a root system located close to the surface of the earth.
After the earthen circle near the fruit trees is treated with a fungicide, it is covered with a layer of eight to ten centimeters mulch. If you prefer the use of humus and compost, the soil layer can be made thinner - about five to seven centimeters, otherwise such materials may simply rot. In severe frosts, experts strongly advise covering the mulch layer with spruce branches or sprinkling it with snow to a height of up to one meter.
The simplest material for mulching is foliage. It perfectly helps to protect perennial trees from frosts down to -30C. It is advised to cover the root zone with foliage that has fallen from trees (extremely healthy) to a layer of twenty to thirty centimeters. Another plus of such a material is its ability to retain snow (spruce branches, etc., have such properties).
To insulate the trunk circle for the winter, materials such as felt, straw or reeds can be used. But they are most often used to wrap the tree trunk of young fruit trees. Burlap is wound over such material, and such a winding is fixed with a rope.
Additional Information
If you are going to mulch the trunk circle for the winter with sawdust, think about their origin. If such material came from furniture workshops, then it may contain a lot chemical substances. And sawdust from coniferous trees is a source of many elements that can destroy the microflora and suppress the development of other plants.
Do not forget that the preparation of fruit trees for wintering may also include the warming of tree trunks. Such manipulation will be especially necessary for young trees, whose age does not reach five years, because they are still very sensitive to frost. Such crops may need protection with spruce branches, straw, felt, burlap, matting, or various synthetic materials - special agrofiber (lutrasil or spabond).
Proper insulation the near-trunk circle of fruit trees will help such crops survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
The soil around the plants should be mulched not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn, so that the crops can safely overwinter.
Mulch laid in the fall rots by spring and contributes to a better warming of the soil, as well as the rapid germination of crops.
But this is only one of the benefits of autumn mulching. What else is mulch good for?
- The covering material retains moisture well, so plants planted in autumn do not need watering.
- When rotting, the mulch forms an additional layer of humus that nourishes the plants.
- Mulched soil suffers less from frost in winter and overheating in spring.
- Sheltered land does not crust over after watering or rain.
- Mulch protects plants from sudden changes in temperature.
- Fewer weeds grow on mulched soil in the spring.
Mulching beds and tree trunks should be late autumn, When upper layer the soil is already starting to freeze. This is necessary so that rodents do not settle in the mulch, looking for a warm place for wintering.
It is important to understand that the desired effect of mulch can only be achieved if you do not spare the covering material. The thickness of the mulch layer should reach 5-10 cm, otherwise the mulching procedure is in vain.
1. Mulching with the bark of coniferous trees
Advantages
It is one of the most durable mulching materials. bark mulch coniferous trees good for its decorative effect, as well as the ability to stimulate plant growth. Tree bark protects the earth from sudden changes in temperature. In addition, the soil after irrigation does not cake, and an earthen crust does not form on it.
Flaws
Perhaps the main disadvantage in using this mulching material is the laboriousness of its harvesting. It is recommended to compost the bark of coniferous trees before use during the year. Also, this material is not recommended for mulching tomatoes.
What can be mulched with bark:
- fruit trees and shrubs,
- rhododendrons,
- heather and coniferous crops,
- cranberries, blueberries.
2. Mulching with compost
Advantages
Compost is one of the best soil mulching materials. It is completely safe for plants, reduces the likelihood of infection with diseases, and is also an excellent fertilizer.
Flaws
As with the bark of coniferous trees, compost must be prepared in advance. Also, a bed of compost can grow more weeds than soil covered with other mulching material.
What can be mulched compost:
- vegetable crops, planted before winter,
- fruit trees and berry bushes,
- grape.
What is the difference between compost and manure? Compost is an organic mass obtained as a result of the decomposition of plant residues, and humus is rotted (or rather, rotted) manure.
3. Mulching with peat
Advantages
Peat is most often used as mulch in autumn. Peat mulching before winter is especially indicated on heavy soil prone to crusting. In the spring, this covering material contributes to the early heating of the soil, retains moisture and improves the structure of the soil.
Flaws
It is not recommended to mulch the soil with fresh peat, since it contains a high concentration of toxic substances that adversely affect plants. Only certain types of peat can be used for mulching: transitional and lowland.
What can be mulched with peat:
- vegetables and herbs planted before winter.
4. Mulching with humus
Advantages
Soil mulching with humus is one of the most effective ways increase its fertility. Such mulch is rich beneficial substances necessary for good growth plants. In particular, humus saturates the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for garden and garden crops in spring.
Flaws
Mulch from humus can provoke the growth of weeds.
What can mulch with humus:
- trees,
- shrubs,
- grape,
- roses and hardy perennials.
5. Mulching with sawdust
Advantages
Sawdust is an excellent fertilizer for any type of soil (especially in combination with compost). They protect the ground from freezing and can enrich even the poorest soil with nutrients.
Flaws
Decaying, sawdust can "pull out" nitrogen from the soil, as well as lower its fertility. Since sawdust tightly covers the ground from sun rays, in the spring, all kinds of bacteria begin to develop in the upper layer of the soil.
What can mulch with sawdust:
- fruit trees,
- raspberries
- currant,
- blueberry,
- cranberries,
- grape,
- bulb flowers,
- winter garden crops.
Use only fresh sawdust whenever possible. Those that have been stored for a long time, dumped in a heap, can stick together. Dry them thoroughly before use.
6. Mulching with wood shavings
Advantages
Shavings can be used where the soil is rarely cultivated. Wood shavings keep well if kept in a dry place. Like sawdust, shavings repel slugs.
Flaws
Unlike sawdust, shavings rot much longer (about 1 year), so it is often used to cover soil that is practically not dug up (for example, on paths).
What can mulch with shavings:
- trunk circles of trees.
7. Straw mulching
Advantages
Straw enriches the soil with nutrients and increases its fertility. And because this mulching material decomposes slowly, it provides mulched crops with long-term protection and keeps the soil warm.
Flaws
Straw mulch can contain weed seeds, and rodents love to make their winter shelters in it.
What can mulch with straw:
- basil,
- garlic,
- strawberry,
- blackberry,
- potatoes planted before winter,
- grape.
8. Mulching with needles
Advantages
Needles - available material, which can be collected in the forest. Over time, mixing with the soil, such a mulch will make it looser and more permeable. For mulching plantings on the site, it is best to use pine or spruce litter - they will help prevent the occurrence of gray rot in plants. A dense layer of spruce needles reliably protects the soil from freezing and drying out.
Flaws
Fallen needles emit volatile substances that can adversely affect horticultural crops. Also, needles increase the acidity of the soil, which is very harmful for many plants.
What can mulch with needles:
- strawberries and small strawberries,
- blueberry,
- cranberries,
- hydrangea,
- heather,
- rhododendrons,
- camellia and other plants that prefer acidic and slightly acidic soil.
9. Mulching with dry fallen leaves
Advantages
Dry leaf mulch is a natural covering that nature itself suggested. The leaves quickly decompose and enrich the soil with nutrients. As a result, crops planted in autumn start growing faster in spring.
Flaws
Leaf litter cannot be used to mulch vegetable crops. In a mild and damp winter, the foliage may begin to rot, which will provoke the reproduction of fungi in the soil.
What can mulch with fallen leaves:
- fruit trees and berry bushes.
10. Mulching with pine nut shells
Advantages
Pine nut shell mulch is not only natural, but also very durable. It perfectly retains moisture in the soil, protects plantings from weeds and looks quite decorative. In addition, a good shell layer stimulates the formation of beneficial microflora in the soil. In winter, the pine nut shell prevents the soil from freezing. In addition, such mulching material is an excellent antiseptic.
Flaws
High price. To mulch even a small area of soil, you will have to spend a lot of money. Also, nutshells can attract rodents, which can significantly damage plants in the ground.
What can mulch with pine nut shells:
- perennial flowers,
- ornamental trees and shrubs,
- coniferous plants.
As you can see, there are quite a few options for mulch, so every gardener and gardener will be able to mulch plantings before harsh winter. You just need to choose the type of mulch that suits you best.
In organic farming, mulching is a very important technique. It allows you to preserve the fertility of the topmost and most important soil layer for nourishing the roots.
Some very diligent gardeners, after harvesting, remove weeds, dig up the soil, level the surface and leave it for the winter, admiring the neat appearance of the garden. It is believed that the soil is resting. However, the uncovered soil does not rest, but collapses.
The soil must be treated as a living being. It is made alive by the mass of soil organisms inhabiting it - bacteria and small soil animals that form the basis of soil fertility. When the topsoil dries up and freezes, the inhabitants of the soil capable of moving go into the depths, the rest die or go dormant. In the spring, when the time of sowing comes, the lifeless soil hardly supplies food to the short roots of the seedlings.
Therefore, the main function of winter mulch is protect the topsoil from drying out and freezing. For winter mulching, the so-called coarse mulch is used. These are straw, hay, sawdust, fallen leaves, peat (not acidic), post-harvest residues. The thickness of the mulch layer is 6-8 cm. After harvesting, perennial weeds are removed, the soil is loosened, compost is added and covered with mulch on top.
Fresh sawdust contains a lot of tannins that inhibit plant growth. That's why for winter mulching, only rotted sawdust is used. Most best material- straw and hay. They create a loose heat-shielding layer, and they can be left on the beds for the entire summer season.
The remaining materials are poorly permeable to air, and should be removed in the spring immediately after the end of frost so that they do not interfere with the warming of the soil. Coarse semi-rotted compost can be used as mulch. They cover the soil immediately before the onset of frost, and in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, they close up to a depth of 10-15 cm.
All of the listed materials belong to the so-called organic mulch. In some cases, inorganic mulch is recommended - gravel, expanded clay, film. In our opinion, inorganic mulch is not suitable for winter mulching. When choosing a material, it should also be borne in mind that completely different requirements are imposed on winter mulch than on summer mulch.
Summer, in addition to protecting the soil surface, performs such important functions as fertilizer, weed suppression, moisture conservation, etc. These requirements are well met by cut grass, weeds, black film. None of this is required from winter mulch, so other materials are used here.
If, after harvesting early crops, there is a lot of time before the onset of frost - 1.5-2 months, the garden bed can be covered with live mulch - green fertilizer. Some fast-growing types of plants are suitable for this, for example, horse beans, mustard, oats, wheat. In autumn they are not removed, but left in the garden, so that they cover the surface of the soil with their dead greenery. And in the spring it is closed up to a depth of 10-15 cm.
In addition to protecting the soil, winter mulch performs another function - protection against freezing of roots and organs perennials . Planting bulbous, and perennial onions, and decorative ones need mandatory mulching. The same can be said about other perennial ornamental plants.
The roots of fruit trees and berry bushes can suffer from frost in winter, especially in cold, snowless winters. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the near-stem circles with mulch for the winter, retreating half a meter from the trunk to the perimeter of the crown. To do this, you can use all types of mulch, including fallen leaves. However, for mulching an apple tree, it is better to use the foliage of other tree species, since pests and diseases characteristic of it remain on the leaves of the apple tree.
Under fruit trees and berry bushes, mulch can be covered for the winter old film. Some pests overwinter in the soil (flower beetle, currant moth), and wake up early in spring, leave the soil and move to plants. The film will make it difficult for them to move and reduce damage.
Which perennial flowers, trees and shrubs need to mulch the trunk circles with the advent of cold weather? What is it connected with? What is the best material to use? What layer thickness should be? What can I do to keep the mulch from being blown away by the wind?
Zinaida Zueva, Leningrad region
When we plant plants, we try to keep the soil around it free of weeds. But in this case, in the cold season, the plants will not have any warming. Mulch is designed to protect plants in winter, as it reduces heat transfer between the soil and the atmosphere.
Favorably respond to mulching young seedlings of fruit trees and berry bushes, in which the root system is shallow (currant, gooseberry, raspberry, sea buckthorn).
It would be useful to mulch and recently planted or rare varieties of most species of spruce, willow, bird cherry, Canadian shadberry, maples (riverine, silver, ash-leaved), white acacia, western arborvitae.
For phloxes, heleniums, peonies and many other perennial flowers, it will be useful to cover with a small layer of ordinary garden soil (it can be mixed with humus), since the growth buds of these plants grow upwards and often rise to the soil level, which increases the risk of freezing. Bulbous (lily, tulip, daffodil) mulch with a very thin layer. It is not recommended to mulch plantings of iris, the rhizomes of which often rot.
Used for mulching different materials, but you should be aware that fresh sawdust can acidify the soil and absorb nitrogen from it. Straw should not be used for mulching, as rodents can start in it, this is especially dangerous when covering bulbs.
Softwood litter as a mulch is useful for rhododendrons, heathers and azaleas. Ideal materials for mulching are fallen leaves and compost.
To prevent the leaves from scattering, they are covered with branches or nonwoven fabric. Now special devices are being sold for sheltering near-stem circles made of agrofiber and coconut fiber (service life 5-6 years).
The thickness of the mulch layer depends on which plants are covered, as well as on the climate and ranges from 1 to 30 cm.
Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"
- Preservation of water in the soil - moisture evaporates much less from a covered surface, there is no need for frequent watering;
- Temperature regulation - on hot days, the root system will not overheat, and in winter it will not freeze;
- Weed control - mulching with a layer of 4-6 cm thick prevents the appearance of unnecessary plants;
- Soil improvement - closed ground remains loose, permeable to air and water longer;
- Enrichment with nutrients - organic mulch decomposes over time, saturating the earth with useful components;
- Acidity regulation - applied pine needles, cones, bark or spruce branches, gradually acidify the soil;
- Decoration of the site - the mulch under the trees looks neat, which means that the decorativeness of the garden increases.
What can be used for mulching?
It is not necessary to go to the store, suitable materials for mulching can be on the site or in the neighboring forest. Consider available options mulch with your own hands.
Dry leaves
A natural material found almost everywhere. Fallen leaves are collected in their own garden or in the nearest forest belt, then they are poured around the trunks with a layer of about 5 cm. The “fur coat” created in this way perfectly protects the rhizomes from frost.
Coniferous plants love acidified soils, which is favored by spruce and pine sawdust or shavings introduced under them. Large wood waste traps snow, organizing additional shelter. Before mulching, the land is enriched with nitrogen fertilizers.
The surface covered with ordinary pine cones, which used to lie to no avail. Any synthetic fabric is placed under this mulch to control weeds. If you do not walk on the bumps, then they lie whole for a long time. Similarly, the bark of coniferous trees, which is sold in many nurseries, is used.
Coniferous needles
Buying bark in bags is expensive, so for mass coverage it is easier to pick up the top layer of half-ripened needles in the forest. A thin layer should be raked so as not to harm the trees. The “prickly” layer protects the soil well, and small rodents and slugs do not like such shelter.
Gravel, stone or expanded clay
Mulching with pebbles or stone chips solves several problems: it keeps moisture in the ground, protects against overheating, prevents the growth of weeds and performs an aesthetic role. Inorganic materials do not rot, so they retain their original appearance for decades.
dry branches
Even in a small garden, some branches are constantly cut off. Usually they are burned, but if they are taken from healthy plants, then it is more expedient not to throw them away, but to cut them into small pieces with secateurs and use them as a mulching component for coniferous plantations.
How are coniferous plantings mulched?
The branches of plants located close to the ground are lifted or tied up, so they will not be damaged, and it will be more convenient to work. The boundaries of the covered area are outlined, the sod is removed. Trying not to tear the rhizome, the soil around the trunk is carefully selected with a loosener to a depth of 5–10 cm. The soil is dug at a distance of a meter or more from the trunk, starting from the far border and, moving closer to the plant, stop plowing when surface roots appear.
The earth can be fertilized with mineral additives or organic, for example, clover with pine needles. The surface is leveled and compacted, then the mulch is laid out in an even layer.
The considered methods of mulching are simple and can be used by most gardeners. The choice of a particular option depends on availability - why spend money when suitable material eat next to your garden.
