Making a hammer handle at home. Locksmith hammer and company - the whole truth about hammers! Types of hammers

In this article, we will show you how to create a creative hammer handle in the form of a hand.

Hello!

This time, an old Soviet hammer without a handle turned up under my arm, which had been lying idle in my workshop for a long time.

The Internet is full of pictures with the anatomical structure of bones. We choose a more informative and simple drawing, estimate the dimensions of the hammer and approximate size bones and cut rebar.

In my work, I took 12 mm as a basis. round fittings for the handle and 10 mm. for fingers.

From the tool I needed only:

welding machine.

I used a semi-automatic, but an inverter for RDS, which may well be in yours, will also fit here!

The workflow is pretty straightforward, so instead of tons of text, I'll just go through the chapters and mark the process in a photo.

I made the entire selection of excess on the bones with a sweeping circle of the grinder.

For the hammer, I made it from 2 pieces of reinforcement. The photo shows that I noted the length of the handle + the segment on which I will later weld the bones + seat under the hammer.

The relief of the pen I betrayed in the same way welding machine and tapping a little on , it turned out to be a kind of hammer handle in garage conditions.

And now, when all the parts are individually ready: hammer, fingers, handle; We start assembling and welding.

After the hammer was ready, I decided to oxidize and rust it a little - so to speak, to give atmospheric work.
I poured water over the hammer from the sprayer, from which the hammer darkened and got a more interesting look.

Well, you can see the result and the full process in the video!

Sometimes it happens that the usual appearance of instruments becomes boring rather quickly and is in no way original, since it does not stand out from the others in any way, which, as usual, looks dull and does not cause any delight. That is why the idea of creating a carved hammer handle was undertaken, and how the author made it, I will tell in this article. Before moving on to the process of making a carved handle, you need to decide on the choice of tool, namely, in this case, a hammer, since it is very popular in the workplace of every do-it-yourselfer.

In order to make a do-it-yourself carved handle, we need:
* The hammer itself with a wooden handle, ordinary, standard, in this case 600 grams.
* Wood cutters.
* Stationery knife.
* Bormashinka with grinding nozzles.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Pencil.

After making sure that all the details are there, you can begin the creative process.

Step one.
Armed with a pencil, draw the pattern that you want to see on your handle, in this case a diamond pattern that looks quite original and tasteful.

After all the markings are ready, you can start cutting out the template, the so-called removal of the first layer, we do this with a clerical knife, accurately cutting out a part of the tree along the lines. When working with sharp tools, be careful and do not forget about safety measures, for this it is better to protect your hands with gloves. In the process of cutting patterns for more precise end faces, it is better to cut them with more force so as not to leave scratches.

Step two.
Next, we use cutters designed for carving in wood, with the help of them you will get a deeper place in the patterns, which will give them greater distinctness and will look more spectacular than a shallow groove. Chinese-made cutters cannot boast of high reliability and resistance to stress, therefore, in the process of cutting, their blades have repeatedly broken, so be on the alert and work with them carefully, as during processing there is a risk of driving the blade into your hand, which is not pleasant. outcome of events. After the final work with the cutters, something similar to rhombuses turned out.

Step three.
The patterns are refined using a drill and a grinding attachment, after this processing the handle has taken on a more beautiful aesthetic appearance, as well as smooth corners.

When the work with the drill is completed, we make the surface smooth with sandpaper, which needs to be cleaned on all sides of the handle.

Step four.
For greater convenience, a decision was made to make a hole in the handle in order to place the hammer on a shelf or hang it on a nail next to other tools. We do this with a drill installed in a screwdriver, after grinding this hole and increasing it with a drill.

Step five.
The final step is to cover the surface of our carved hammer with a preliminary decorative layer, then varnish it in several layers.

Think you know everything about hammers? What could be simpler - a pen, a percussion part, score it, but rejoice! There really is nothing complicated in their device, but you can get confused in the varieties. locksmith's hammer, nail puller, with and without a striker, picks - it's time to find out the whole truth about hammers!

Types of hammers - functional differences

Hammer - ancient instrument, and we can only guess for what purposes ancient people used it. But today it is a construction tool, without which not a single repair or construction project can do. Without a nail it is still possible, but without a hammer it will not work! Its design is designed to increase the impact force of a person at times and concentrate this force into one point - a person faces this need in almost every area where force must be applied.

By functional purpose these tools are divided into nail hammers, picks and hammers with strikers. Nail pullers are especially useful in household- so you can not only hammer a nail, but also, if necessary, pull it out. The design feature is the presence on the reverse side of two arcs bent inward, with which it is convenient to hook the nail head. Especially such hammers are popular with carpenters and builders. Hammers with strikers are mainly used for carpentry work, but sometimes they are also needed by the same tilers. The shape of the strikers are very different: square, round, narrow and wide, and so on.

The bricklayer's and tiler's hammer is a hammer with a flattened reverse side, which is easy to apply choking blows. With their help, you can split stones, remove excess brick or hardened concrete from the surface. Hatchet hammers are similar in design, the reverse side of the heads of which is flattened and sharpened in order to split or cut a thin object if necessary.

Much less common types of hammers that do not bounce off the surface. These are used to work with sheet metal and products requiring high precision. The ability to keep from reverse movement is provided by a cavity in the metal part of the hammer, which is half or three-quarters filled with metal shot. When the movement of the tool is directed towards the impact, the balls are collected in the back of the cavity, while during the impact itself they move forward by inertia, almost completely outweighing the rebound inertia.

What is a hammer - metalwork, soft, mallet!

There are hundreds of hammers in various shapes and sizes. If you highlight the main forms, you get this picture:

Locksmith hammers, thanks to the narrowed back, can hammer even the smallest carnations. The material from which the working part is made is chrome vanadium steel. There are two types of machinist's hammer - one has the shape of a rectangle with a square striker, the second is slightly convex, round in shape. By weight, they are divided into 5 standard numbers. The first number weighs 200 grams, while the fifth - all 800. There are also specialized products weighing from 0.05 kg to 1 kg.
"Soft" hammers are tools for hammering brittle materials. Usually the strikers of such tools are made of aluminum, copper, rubber, polyurethane, nylon and wood. The most practical purchase will be a hammer with interchangeable heads, thanks to which you can perform a huge list of jobs.
A hammer with a notch on the striker prevents the striker from slipping off the nail head when struck. Most often used in carpentry.
The roofer's hammer is characterized by a special recess at the top of the striker, in which nails can be fixed. different sizes. This simplifies the work when it is not possible to hold a nail with one hand and strike with a hammer with the other. A small magnet is embedded in the recess, which holds the nail on impact.
A hammer with an addition on the back of the impact part in the form of a claw is the so-called nail hammer.
A mallet is most often used to hammer chisels, so the material for its manufacture is the same type of wood from which the handle of the chisel is made. In fact, a mallet is wooden hammer, often made from a single piece of wood.
Balda is a hammer for strong men! The history of the funny name has been lost for centuries, but such a fate does not threaten the tool itself - it is necessary in almost every construction or major repair. It looks like a huge hammer with a long thick handle and a large, heavy striker, which is also called a sledgehammer. Usually such big men are needed in order to break something, but it is very difficult to score like this without damaging the material itself.

We buy the right hammer!

Going to buy this tool, the most important thing is to decide on the size and weight of its working part. Too light a striker will not give the desired impact force, and on the contrary, an excessively heavy one will quickly wear you out when working. In addition, a heavy hammer can cause deep injury or inadvertently damage the material itself.

When buying, also pay attention to the material from which the working part is made. The head should preferably be forged, hardened and tempered. Hardening is carried out by an increased cooling rate of the material, but such a material has a high internal stress. To remove it, vacation is carried out - heating the product in an oven to a temperature of 150-250 ° C, followed by gradual cooling.

Although tempering reduces the hardening strength somewhat, in general, the product that has passed these stages is much stronger than ordinary metal parts.

handles in Lately made from the most different materials: plastic, polyurethane, fiberglass. But the wooden handle, based on the centuries-old experience of craftsmen, remains the most popular material. First, in wooden handle you can drive in a peg, which significantly strengthens its adhesion to the striker. Secondly, such a pen can be made independently if the old one has broken or become unusable for some other reason.

How to store and carry a hammer?

A hammer should always be at hand during work, but do not hold it all the time! For these purposes, there is a special belt with a convenient holder, which, however, can be made independently, from wire or a piece of leather. The essence of the holder is that it allows the pen to pass through the hole, but the striker cannot pass through. Thus, the tool is located on the belt with the handle down.

For easy storage of hammers and hammers, it is best to drill holes at the end of the handle(if it was not provided by the manufacturer) and make a stand stuffed with carnations convenient sizes. If you do not provide this tool with a permanent “residence”, you can be sure that you will spend more than one minute looking for it at the right time.

Electric version - jackhammer

Although the jackhammer is strikingly different from its older "brother", the principle of operation is the same - striking at one point. It’s just that it’s unlikely that a nail will be hammered with a hammer option, at least no one has tried it yet. Its main function is to dismantle various surfaces, structures, punching openings and niches in the walls, changing the pavement and much more.

The tool is somewhat similar to an electric or, however, a jackhammer has a more reliable and simplified design with increased impact force. The higher the force of impacts and their number, the better tool. The principle of operation of the striker is quite simple - inside the striker strikes the working part, which, after a lunge from the impact, returns to its original position. In addition to the destructive function, the jackhammer, using various platform-type nozzles, is able to compact the surface.

I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap every paving slabs. It softens the blows, something like rubber mallet. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made from rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.

Of course, you can’t brag about the design, but nevertheless, the quality of such a hammer is good.

The old mallet (pictured) has fallen into disrepair! The wood has already cracked and dried out from long use. It needed to be replaced with a new one. I drew a model of the future mallet on the computer, printed the picture on paper and set to work.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

For this project, we will need several pieces of wood. This is a great opportunity to use unnecessary waste from wood. Many of my acquaintances do not give waste a chance to be useful, they just end up either in the trash or burned like firewood.

I am not a master carpenter, but I think anyone can make such a hammer.

You will need:

Saw;
Joiner's glue;
Some clips, clamps

I used a circular saw. I think that with it you can cut pieces of wood the fastest. After cutting, we take sandpaper and clean the sides.

Step 2: Cut Out

Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at their own discretion. This is not critical. The design of the hammer can also be done by everyone independently and according to their tastes.

I made my handle length 350mm. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and at the other 30 mm. To achieve such dimensions can be easily when there is a table saw. WITH hand saw It will be a little difficult, but it's real.

Step 3: Collect

We place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should peek out a little from the common head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut off bars with each other (Seen in the photo). Don't forget to take out the hammer handle, it shouldn't stick with the hammer.

Fix the hammer with clamps for better gluing of all parts of the hammer. In places where the glue has flowed out, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle enters. Before complete drying, it is necessary to leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. Something like the layers of a sandwich and seasonings flowing from it. It will, of course, look terrible, but magic will happen in the next steps.

Step 4: Processing the Hammer

Now that you have your hammer (head) and everything glued together, it's time to make it even prettier. I made cuts on the hammer handle in order to cut out small indentations after. This will give the convenience of lying the handle in your hand, and then a pleasant work with a mallet.

Take a pen and cut out the recesses mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, cut it off.

After the work done, insert the handle into the hammer.

Step 5: Trimming and Finishing

We process sandpaper all the bumps on the handle, for more smooth surface and avoiding a splinter in the hand in the future. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that in the future it would be possible to store it hanging.

Step 6: Finished mallet hammer

If you want to stick a pen to your head, then you can do so, but I did not do this, it will not go anywhere with me anyway.

I look forward to your comments, dear friends!

V.A.VOLKOV. Dedicated to T.V. Cherkasova

Interceptions, Percussions. Drops. Breaks Interruptions Overflows Overflows Thunders Rumble. Calls Scream. Murmur. Stomp. Whisper. Laughter...

Percussion is a tool that is struck in the production of work directly or through a dummy tool. Hand percussion instruments include hammers, sledgehammers, mallets.

The hammer is the most common tool. It is in virtually every apartment and house. But precisely because of their need and versatility, there are many designs of hammers for a specific purpose: metalwork, carpentry, carpentry, etc.

Locksmith hammers

They (Figure 1) are the most mass-produced. It is convenient to strike with them during various works: hammer, bend, flatten, etc.

Rice. 1. Locksmith hammers: a - with a round striker; b - with a square striker

Locksmith hammers (Table 1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square heads (Fig. 16).

Table 1

Note. Hammer heads with a square striker are also made with a mass of 50 and 100 g, respectively, with L 200 and 250 mm at H equal to 75 and 82 mm under No. 1 and 2.

Hammer No. 1 with a round head is recommended for “fine” work such as marking, wallpaper, etc., and hammers No. 2, 3, 4 - for plumbing, “nailing”, etc. home loads. Hammers No. 5 and 6 with the same striker are used in "hard" cases, for example, driving staples into logs.

Hammer No. 1 with a square head is suitable for glazing studs. Only the nail should be placed parallel to the glass, otherwise it will crack.

Construction steel hammers

These hammers, depending on the purpose, are made of many types, which are indicated in Table. 2 and in fig. 2.

Carpenter's hammers are used for woodworking with chisels, chisels and other tools. The main part of the body (Fig. 2a) is the striker, the auxiliary part is a wedge-shaped (with a one-sided concave bevel in the past) toe. Nails are driven in last in grooves, in narrow places, etc.

Rice. 2. Steel construction hammers: a - carpentry type MST; 6 - carpentry type MPL-1; c - carpentry type MPL-2; g - kirochka type MKI-1; d - kirochka type MKI-2; e - plaster type MSHT-1; g - plaster type MSHT-2; h - parquet type MPA; and - parquet type MPA VNIISMI Minstroydormash; k - roofing type MKR-1 and MKR-2; l - roofing type MKR-3; m - slate type MSHI 1; n - slate type MSHI-2; o - slate Yushchenko; p - tile type MPLI-1; p - tile type MPPI-2; c - trench type MSHA-1; t * - entrenched type MSHA-2; f - cam type MIU-1; x - cam type MKU-2; c - for notching concrete and brick surfaces; h - automated, driven by an internal combustion engine; 1 - body; 2 - wooden handle; 3 - to the stump; 4 - tubular rod; ! S - rubber handle; 6 - forging; 7 - ring | see fig. 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5)

A carpenter's hammer of the MP L-2 type (Fig. 2c) is much more practical than a carpenter's hammer MPL-1 (Fig. 26). The body of the MPL-2 hammer is hot pressed onto the tubular rod. There is no concern about locking the body on the rod. Attention to the position of the wedge in the wooden handle of the MPL-1 hammer is necessary from the point of view of safety. Boltanka body on the handle

causes it to jump off during the backswing for a strike. The "floating" body in the air causes terrible injuries. The rubber handle is glued to the MPL-2 hammer shaft. It slows down the sliding of the palm and softens the recoil upon impact.

Hammers of the MPL-1 type were produced with a mass of 0.35 and 0.5 kg, now - up to 0.8 kg.

Pick hammers (Fig. 2d, e) were produced with a mass of 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 kg with sock length up to 200 mm. If bricks are used as the material for these hammers, then a brick is crushed with a square striker, for example, when filling voids. Bricks are cut with a flat toe into incomplete pieces when dressing seams, laying jambs, belts, etc. The mass of modern pick hammers MKY-1 is up to 0.7 kg, MKI-2 is up to 1 kg.

Parquet hammers (Fig. 2h, i) are made different designs and masses.

So the hammer (Fig. 2i) of the Georgievsky plant "Stroyinstrument" has a mass of 0.47 kg. The narrow strip of the protruding toe of the body, due to the solid total area, does not crush the wood along the edges of the parquet. But with such a toe it is sometimes difficult to hit the nail head when laying parquet. Doboynik corrects the shortcomings of the hammer.

Roofing hammers (Fig. 2k, k), unlike most other types of hammers, have fittings (Table 4). They keep the integrity of the handle near the body. The sharp edges of the processed sheets would gradually split the handle.

Table 4 Roofing hammers according to GOST 11042-83

Note. The dimensions of the MKP-3 hammer are shown in fig. 2L, its weight is up to 1.5 kg.

Roofing hammers in the past were made with a weight of 0.4; 0.5; 0.65 and 1.4 kg.

A modern automated hammer (Fig. 2h) even in appearance is different from the traditional one. They do not need to swing and hold the nail. It is enough to bring it to the selected point. Everything else will be done on command by a hammer. The nail will be filed from the shop. The striker himself, with one blow, will drive the nail to the head.

The hammer mechanism is a cross between a pistol and... an internal combustion engine! The trigger is pressed, and at the same moment a portion of fuel is injected from a special cylinder under pressure into the working chamber. It is ignited by an electric spark. A microexplosion occurs in the chamber. His strength is transferred to the striker, moving back and forth.

The charge in the batteries and the fuel in the cylinder is enough for several hours of intensive work. Replacing the cylinder and battery is a matter of a few minutes. Such "toys" are produced in Finland.

Independently, such a “work” can be made from a household tool with an electric drive that has a reciprocating motion. Well, let's say, from a perforator. Pneumatic drive is also applicable for the design of "self-beating" hammers. But for their use, no doubt, you need a uniform field of activity.

Sledgehammers

One hand usually controls the hammer. Although trench hammers (Fig. 2c, t) weighing up to 2 ... 2.5 kg cannot be moved without the application of the other hand when a series of blows is needed. Cam hammers are also approximately the same weight (Fig. 2f, x).

Sledgehammers are used for delivering strong blows with two hands. Blacksmithing is the main purpose of a sledgehammer. But you can’t do without a sledgehammer in the garden and homestead plots. It is the main tool for driving fence stakes, building a greenhouse, etc.

Blunt-nosed (Fig. 3a) and pointed-nosed (Fig. 36) - this is the subdivision of sledgehammers (Tables 5, 6). The first are more common in everyday life.

Blunt-nosed sledgehammers

Table 5

Weight, kg	Dimensions, mm
Weight, kg

Pointed-nosed sledgehammers

Table 6

Weight, kg	Dimensions, mm
Weight, kg

The hole on any type of sledgehammer is located at their center of gravity. It has, according to figures 3a and 36, an oval shape with a double-sided slope of 1:10. This is done to better wedging the wooden handle. Therefore, with independent creativity, the displacement of the hole in the sledgehammer along the limiting axis is permissible within ± 1.5 ... 2 mm, and along the transverse axis - up to ± 0.4 ... 0.6 mm.

The length of the sledgehammer handle reaches 750 ... 900 mm. The wooden handle is good for small one-time jobs. There are many tricks for fixing a sledgehammer on the handle. But they are not enough for a long time and fasteners again. Yes! A sledgehammer that jumps off the handle during the swing will kill or “effectively” injure the sledgehammer himself or someone standing next to him ...

Observe safety precautions!

Attach the sledgehammers to the handle!

It is permissible to forget about the “friendship” of the sledgehammer and the handle when they are tightly connected. To achieve this, the handle is selected from a suitable steel pipe. A seamless water and gas pipe is preferable. The absence of a longitudinal seam on the outer surface of the pipe indicates that it is seamless.

Rice. 3. Sledgehammers: a - blunt; 6 - pointed.

The end of the metal handle is somewhat flattened so that it goes into the oval hole of the sledgehammer. Then the "queen" - electric welding will complete the deed. I warn you right away that you can’t do without welding! The end of the pipe handle does not need to be welded. There, during the "rest" of the sledgehammer, you can lay the tool.

Homemade hammer shells

A hammer is not always necessary. It all depends on what kind of bullshit you need. So they called the sledgehammer in the last century. Cobblestone of natural origin is sometimes sufficient (Fig. 4) to nail something. Brick rarely fits, crumbles too quickly. This is a modern brick, and in the Middle Ages and earlier, the brick was 2 ... 3 times smaller and stronger. Hammer nails calmly.

A piece of pipe, a piece of hexagon or square roll of steel, a railway crutch for fixing rails on wooden sleepers, a large bolt, etc. - all this replaces the hammer in certain circumstances.

A piece of a water and gas pipe with an outer diameter of, say, 21 mm, a length of 200 ... 300 mm, with pipe thread, on which the valve body is screwed (Fig. 4), or the valve assembly with a shortened or removed stem, quite resembles a hammer in the aggregate.

Rice. 4. Homemade hammers of quick production: 1 - cobblestone (primitive design); 2 - valve; 3- steel pipe; 4 - flywheel-crossbar

Flywheels (Fig. 4) of some taps and valves are a brass crossbar with a square hole in the middle. Such a flywheel begs to be turned into a miniature hammer. Sharpening with a file or grindstone one of the ends of the flywheel will create the toe of the hammer body. Giving the striker a square shape will also expand the applicability of the production tool.

Semenikhin's hammer is made of a steel bar (Fig. 5) of square or hexagonal section with dimensions between parallel faces from 16 to 24 mm. It is desirable to use the following steel grades for the manufacture of the hammer body: U7, U8, 45, 50, 60, etc. An electric sharpener allows you to quite accurately determine the grade of steel by sparks. "Ordinary" steel with a low carbon content, with frequent use of the striker, will lead to the appearance of "roses" on its edges.

The striker of the Semenikhin hammer, like the factory strikers, has a spherical bulge, which allows its best contact with the object being struck. Instantaneous load - at the point of the axis of the striker. This axis passes through the center of mass.

Rice. Fig. 5. Semenikhin's hammer: a - shock load distribution over the striker; b - body; in - the base of the handle; g - handle assembly (option); e - connection diagram of the body and the handle (option)

In addition to the composition of the steel material, hardening also contributes to the hardening of the toe and striker of the body. Brought to the right sizes the body is heated in a muffle or some other suitable furnace to a temperature of 730 ... 830 ° C. The color of the case, close to cherry, can be a temperature determinant.

The body is taken with tongs with long handles and gently lowered into the water with hands, raising its head proudly. Hot splashes possible. Goggles are the preferred eye protection. Mittens are worn on the hands.

The cooled and dried body is cleaned with an abrasive sandpaper. But the body is also given color, using tint colors. The cleaned body is again placed in the furnace for heating. The colors on the case will appear in the following sequence: light and dark yellow, brown and purple red, purple, cornflower blue, gray. The required color is "grabbed" by taking out the body and placing it on a metal base. Wiping with an oily cloth forms a resistant film on the body, which will also protect against corrosion. All listed colors are achievable within the body heating range from 220 to 330°C.

Making a hammer body on your own is a laborious undertaking. Vice, electric drill, files, hacksaw, caliper, ruler - this is the minimum set of tools. A piece of metal for the body blank is marked according to the drawing or the drawings shown here. Depending on the equipment available, start with filing surfaces or drilling holes. The final hole for the handle is made at least two in advance drilled holes because it is oval.

A number of designs (Fig. b) of hammers are “dedicated” to the elimination of recoil from impact. Various moving masses (liquid, shot, mercury, rod, etc.) inside the body or handle dampen the recoil. The execution of the handle or part of it in the form of a flat spring also helps to reduce recoil (Fig. b). Rechitsky told readers about such hammers in the book "Profession - Inventor". The manufacture of such hammers is quite affordable for craftsmen.

Homemade handles

The handle in the productive work of the hammer plays no less a role than the body. Although in isolated cases the case will fulfill its purpose without a handle. Its dimensions largely depend on the age, height and physique of the "head" of the hammer. It is customary to say that one hammer is handy, the other is not. Why? Few will answer this question. Let's add an explanation.

Rice. 6. Homemade hammers that dampen recoil from impact: a - with a ball; 6 - mercury; in - load with a spring; g - rod; d - fraction; e - flat spring parts of the handle

The thickness of the handle depends on the length of the user's fingers. Everyone will select the most advantageous thickness without difficulty (Fig. 76). By touch, the length of the handle is also selected, which only partly depends on the mass of the hammer. The hand perceives a push or a sharp jar with each blow from a short or too long handle. Vibrations cause rapid fatigue and affect the strength and confidence of the fight. Therefore, first, a deliberately long handle is cut out. Trial battles are looking for the most convenient place to capture. The excess part of the handle is sawn off so that a free end 35 cm long remains behind the hand. In general, the heavier the body, the longer the handle is made.

Rice. 7. Homemade handles: a - defective; b - choice of thickness and length; c - handles modern style; d - old design; e - with indentations on the handle against slipping of the palms

Not everyone loves experiments. Well, there are recommendation tables. One, tab. 7, - about the handles of a modern sample (Fig. 7c) of a conical shape. The second - tab. 8 - about the handles of an old sample (Fig. 7d). Such a handle, among other advantages, is safer. Its thickened end prevents the tool from slipping out of the fist.

Table 7 Handles for round-faced hammers

				Dimensions, mm

Notes: 1) some sizes are rounded; 2) the table is reduced.

Home-made handles, sadly, are cut out of the found “grassroots” material. And it does not have an autograph of the breed. How to be? I advise you to check the "nationality" of wood with a nail. It will even enter dry coniferous wood without difficulty under the influence of something heavy. Relatively rare leafy “aristocrats” (beech, hickory, etc.) will yield only to the long onslaught of the “plebeian” nail. How can one not remember its merits.

The second sign of pedigree, "blue blood", wood is the purpose, shape, finish of the found piece. Furniture is still trying to be made from noble breeds. Therefore, the legs and crossbars, such as chairs and tables, are an excellent material for handles.

Broken hockey sticks are also considered for further use. They are, however, made of plywood. This requires a variety of tools for their processing, and fixing the body on the hammer handle will not be quite usual (Fig. 8h).

Handles for hammers according to OST 90028-39, mm

Table 8

Handles for hammers with square strikers in size have minor differences with the data given in Table. 7. Therefore, there is no special table for handles for hammers with square eyes. The material for the handle plays an important role in its quality. Solid lumber hardwood for hammer handles allows the use of GOST 11 042-83. Young oak, white beech, maple, etc. go to the production of handles. Birch and ash are less acceptable.

Handles are made exclusively from a dry and viscous material that can subsequently take on natural polishing. Cracks, rot, growths and wormholes are not allowed. Two fused healthy knots with a diameter of not more than 5 mm at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the handle from the side of the free end can still sometimes be seen, but not on the handles for tile hammers. Knots on the handles for these hammers are generally prohibited. Nodules, shells, bubbles, dents and wallpaper are also not found on factory-made handles.

Suitable branches of thoroughbred trees will give, increase the longevity of the handle. The bark here will play the role of a contracting tube. Such handles, however, will not meet the recommended ones (Fig. 7). Moreover, the handles will be rough, which, according to our "guide" books, will cause blisters. Maybe. It all depends on how and how much to work hard. However, it is sometimes necessary to look around for comparison. No. It is not necessary to move beyond the cordon. The counters of domestic stores will surprise you. The handles of overseas axes, say, at the point of grip, have specially drilled recesses (Fig. 7e), which prevents the palm from slipping. A number of domestic hammers with tubular rods (Fig. 2 c, e, g, n) are equipped with rubber handles for this purpose. By the way, spitting on the palm also slows down their “shift”.

Rice. Fig. 8. Fastening the body to the hammer handle: a - slopes of the body opening; 6 - wooden wedge; c - a metal wedge with "petals" along the edges; g - one click; d - two wedges; e - three wedges; g - screws or nails; 3 - steel wire.

The standard manufacturing technology of the handle is as follows:

1) marking the workpiece according to the drawing, taking into account the allowance for processing;

2) filing the surface with leaving an allowance;

3) planing of the workpiece, leaving a minimum allowance;

4) surface treatment with sandpaper until the minimum allowance is removed;

5) surface coating with enamels of bright colors or lacquer, oiling is also acceptable.

A freshly made handle can still be cured in hot smoke or heated strongly in front of a fire. Then - grinding of medium grit with sandpaper and the smallest sandpaper. Rubbing with wood chips until glossy is the last operation in surface finishing. In the absence of a skin, the surface of the handle is smoothly scraped with fragments of window glass.

Attaching the housing to the handle

Locksmith hammers (Fig. 1) are the most common in everyday life. If you carefully examine the holes in the housings, you can see that each hole at the entrances has an extension-slope (Fig. 8a), and between the extensions there is an oval belt. Clear? The narrowed part of the handle is squeezed through the belt until it comes out on the other side of the hole for a length of approximately 2 mm (GOST 11042-83, p. 21). To facilitate the entry of the handle into the hole, the narrowed part is somewhat wiped with fat and tapped on the end of the thickened part. The cone facing the main part of the handle will be filled to some extent. But between the opposite cone in the body and the protruding part of the handle there will be an oval gap. It will be filled by the end of the narrowed part after driving into it, say, a wooden or metal wedge (Table 9).

wooden wedges

Table 9

corps, g	Dimensions, mm	Number of teeth
corps, g		Number of teeth

Note: 1) the table is shown partially; 2) some sizes are rounded.

The overall dimensions of metal wedges are approximately the same as those of wood (rice, 86). For wooden wedges, the teeth-steps are made in such a way as to prevent the handle from coming out of the hammer on its own; notches are made on metal wedges with a chisel. To do this, the metal plate is clamped in a vise. Safety is also needed here. A plate that simply rests against something “resistant” can slip out and injure. Ruff-notches are also created by welding. The holes in the plate of the future wedge also slow down its exit from the wooden handle. Petals along the edges (Fig. 8c) of the wedge will successfully replace the notches. Cuts to create petals are made with a hacksaw, and limbs are made with tongs, a hammer.

The number of wedges for fastening the body and the handle is different. If the hammer hole has only a lateral expansion-slope between the points GB and VL, then one longitudinal wedge is hammered (Fig. 8d). Moreover, not surprisingly, GOST 11042-83 says: “Tolerance of symmetry of the drive axis relative to the plane of symmetry of the hammer body: 0.3 mm for a hammer body weighing up to 0.2 kg; 0.5 mm - for a hammer body weighing from 0.2 to 1.0 kg ... ". It's clear. The layers of wood in the handle should extend parallel to its axis. When this parallelism is too distorted, and even the gap under the wedge is at random, that is, the likelihood of splitting the handle when driving the wedge.

The expansion-slope between the points BV and DG occurs only along the hole. Two wedges are then driven in (Fig. 8e). Three wedges "turn" into the handle when the extension is sloped along the entire oval hole. Two wedges are placed parallel to each other, and the third is perpendicular to them and between them (Fig. 8a, f). By the way, in GOST 11042-83 it is written: "The number of wedges, the position of the wedge and the method of wedging are not established by the standard." The body is considered to be correctly mounted on the handle when a right angle is formed between their axes. This angle is important to maintain when operating the hammer. The body very often wobbles on the handle, depending on the blows, changing the angle of the nozzle.

Many, instead of a wedge, made according to all the rules of art (Fig. 86), use a chip of a suitable shape. Don't save time. The sliver will soon fall out and it's good, if not with the body. Yes, everything else still needs to systematically check the "health" of the chips. She, cordial, restrains the body, which is “free” in the process of soaring and is capable of killing. No! I don't scare! And a legitimate wedge is capable of popping up when some trick is not used.

The WEDGE before “pushing in” MUST BE LUBRICATED WITH WORKING GLUE or some other suitable, but, no doubt, not clerical.

Are there any other ways to secure the case to the wooden handle? Of course there is. Two or three screws are chosen so long that it is approximately 1/2 ... 2/3 of the depth of the housing hole. Two or three holes a few millimeters deep are drilled at the end of the handle along the axial plane of the hammer (Fig. 8g). Similar depressions are also made with a nail. Screws would be good to screw in, not to score. To facilitate screwing into a dry handle, the screws are lubricated or drilled deeper holes with a drill bit two to three times smaller than the diameter of the screws.

Nails are also peculiar wedges, but not any. Roofing nails are most suitable for this purpose. The diameter of their rods is 2...3 mm, length - 20...400 mm. If there are no such nails, then construction nails of the corresponding diameters are shortened. Light heat-treated low-carbon steel wire is used for stamping. Therefore, notches are not so difficult to make on them. When nicks are a problem, rusty nails of the recommended sizes are used. Rust will provide at least some resistance to popping. Like screws, nails should not be driven into the end of the handle more than halfway through the hole. If the nail is large, it is chopped off with a chisel, an ax or cut off with a hacksaw. The stump is sharpened. This operation disappears when the shortening is "performed" not perpendicular to the axis of the rod, but at an angle. The smaller the angle between the axis of the rod and the chisel blade, the sharper the stump. By the way, a wedge nail head is not required. Consequently, the cut off part will not spoil the nail, which is then used for its intended purpose.

A steel wire with a diameter of 3 ... 4 mm closes the case well on the hammer handle (Fig. 8h). A hole for passing the wire is drilled at a sufficient distance from the end in the handle. When the wire is too steely to bend, it is annealed a little on any fire. Two grooves in the handle extend for laying the wire. Then the "collective" is passed into the body and the ends of the wire are bent. They are sometimes made longer in order to wrap around the body of a suitable shape, for example, a machinist's hammer with a round head.