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Durable, capable of withstanding a large impact force and at the same time rubberized on the outside of the hammer, it is easy to do it yourself. The mold for casting it is done elementarily, and the materials you will need will be quite affordable. Step by step process making a concrete hammer with your own hands is outlined and clearly demonstrated below.
materials
Before you make a hammer with your own hands, make sure you have:
- Lego constructor;
- mortar for mixing concrete;
- solution epoxy resin;
- wooden handle;
- sharp knife or screwdriver;
- wax for polishing wood;
- chisels;
- sandpaper;
- gloves
- corner.
Step 1. From the Lego constructor, assemble a mold for casting the impact part of the hammer. The constructor is good in that its parts fit as tightly as possible to each other, preventing the solution from flowing out through the cracks. The product can be made in any size. In this case, a small hammer was needed. You can change it at your own discretion.
Step 2. Place a wooden handle in the center of the assembled hammer mold. Be sure to make sure that the part of the future tool is strong and not rotten. For the handle, choose strong woods, in this master class it was walnut.
Step 3. Dilute the concrete solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold. Make sure that the handle continues to stand strictly upright during the process. Correct it if necessary. Seal the solution with your hands, after putting on gloves. Make sure there are no air pockets. The solution must be packed tightly.
Step 4. After a few hours, disassemble the constructor. Due smooth surface plastic, the process will go without much effort, but if you doubt that it can be separated from concrete, lubricate the mold before casting vegetable oil. Give the material some more time to dry.
Step 5. Dilute the epoxy solution. It must be tenacious. Gently apply it with a pencil on the concrete part of the hammer. Leave the product until the materials are completely dry. This process will take about a day.
The resin will hold the concrete together from the outside, and due to this layer, the hammer will turn out to be not only durable, but also similar in properties to the rubber analogue.
Step 6. So that the hammer handle fits comfortably in your hand and does not rub corns, cut off its edges and sand everything thoroughly. Rub the surface of the wooden part of the instrument with wax and polish.
Think you know everything about hammers? What could be simpler - a pen, a percussion part, score it, but rejoice! There really is nothing complicated in their device, but you can get confused in the varieties. locksmith's hammer, nail puller, with and without a striker, picks - it's time to find out the whole truth about hammers!
Types of hammers - functional differences
Hammer - ancient instrument, and we can only guess for what purposes ancient people used it. But today it is a construction tool, without which not a single repair or construction project can do. Without a nail it is still possible, but without a hammer it will not work! Its design is designed to increase the impact force of a person at times and concentrate this force into one point - a person faces this need in almost every area where force must be applied.
By functional purpose these tools are divided into nail hammers, picks and hammers with strikers. Nail pullers are especially useful in household- so you can not only hammer a nail, but also, if necessary, pull it out. The design feature is the presence on the reverse side of two arcs bent inward, with which it is convenient to hook the nail head. Especially such hammers are popular with carpenters and builders. Hammers with strikers are mainly used for carpentry work, but sometimes they are also needed by the same tilers. The shape of the strikers are very different: square, round, narrow and wide, and so on.
The bricklayer's and tiler's hammer is a hammer with a flattened reverse side, which is easy to apply choking blows. With their help, you can split stones, remove excess brick or hardened concrete from the surface. Hatchet hammers are similar in design, the reverse side of the heads of which is flattened and sharpened in order to split or cut a thin object if necessary.
Much less common types of hammers that do not bounce off the surface. These are used to work with sheet metal and products requiring high precision. The ability to keep from reverse movement is provided by a cavity in the metal part of the hammer, which is half or three-quarters filled with metal shot. When the movement of the tool is directed towards the impact, the balls are collected in the back of the cavity, while during the impact itself they move forward by inertia, almost completely outweighing the rebound inertia.
What is a hammer - metalwork, soft, mallet!
There are hundreds of hammers in various shapes and sizes. If you highlight the main forms, you get this picture:
- Locksmith hammers, thanks to the narrowed back, can hammer even the smallest carnations. The material from which the working part is made is chrome vanadium steel. There are two types of machinist's hammer - one has the shape of a rectangle with a square striker, the second is slightly convex, round in shape. By weight, they are divided into 5 standard numbers. The first number weighs 200 grams, while the fifth - all 800. There are also specialized products weighing from 0.05 kg to 1 kg.
- "Soft" hammers are tools for hammering brittle materials. Usually the strikers of such tools are made of aluminum, copper, rubber, polyurethane, nylon and wood. The most practical purchase will be a hammer with interchangeable heads, thanks to which you can perform a huge list of jobs.
- A hammer with a notch on the striker prevents the striker from slipping off the nail head when struck. Most often used in carpentry.
- The roofer's hammer is characterized by a special recess at the top of the striker, in which nails can be fixed. different sizes. This simplifies the work when it is not possible to hold a nail with one hand and strike with a hammer with the other. A small magnet is embedded in the recess, which holds the nail on impact.
- A hammer with an addition on the back of the impact part in the form of a claw is the so-called nail hammer.
- A mallet is most often used to hammer chisels, so the material for its manufacture is the same type of wood from which the handle of the chisel is made. In fact, a mallet is wooden hammer, often made from a single piece of wood.
- Balda is a hammer for strong men! The history of the funny name has been lost for centuries, but such a fate does not threaten the tool itself - it is necessary in almost every construction or major repair. It looks like a huge hammer with a long thick handle and a large, heavy striker, which is also called a sledgehammer. Usually such big men are needed in order to break something, but it is very difficult to score like this without damaging the material itself.
We buy the right hammer!
Going to buy this tool, the most important thing is to decide on the size and weight of its working part. Too light a striker will not give the desired impact force, and on the contrary, an excessively heavy one will quickly wear you out when working. In addition, a heavy hammer can cause deep injury or inadvertently damage the material itself.
When buying, also pay attention to the material from which the working part is made. The head should preferably be forged, hardened and tempered. Hardening is carried out by an increased cooling rate of the material, but such a material has a high internal stress. To remove it, vacation is carried out - heating the product in an oven to a temperature of 150-250 ° C, followed by gradual cooling.
Although tempering reduces the hardening strength somewhat, in general, the product that has passed these stages is much stronger than ordinary metal parts.
handles in Lately made from the most different materials: plastic, polyurethane, fiberglass. But the wooden handle, based on the centuries-old experience of craftsmen, remains the most popular material. First, a peg can be driven into a wooden handle, which greatly strengthens its grip on the striker. Secondly, such a pen can be made independently if the old one has broken or become unusable for some other reason.
How to store and carry a hammer?
A hammer should always be at hand during work, but do not hold it all the time! For these purposes, there is a special belt with a convenient holder, which, however, can be made independently, from wire or a piece of leather. The essence of the holder is that it allows the pen to pass through the hole, but the striker cannot pass through. Thus, the tool is located on the belt with the handle down.
For easy storage of hammers and hammers, it is best to drill holes at the end of the handle(if it was not provided by the manufacturer) and make a stand stuffed with carnations convenient sizes. If you do not provide this tool with a permanent “residence”, you can be sure that you will spend more than one minute looking for it at the right time.
Electric version - jackhammer
Although the jackhammer is strikingly different from its older "brother", the principle of operation is the same - striking at one point. It’s just that it’s unlikely that a nail will be hammered with a hammer option, at least no one has tried it yet. Its main function is to dismantle various surfaces, structures, punching openings and niches in the walls, changing the pavement and much more.
The tool is somewhat similar to an electric or, however, a jackhammer has a more reliable and simplified design with increased impact force. The higher the force of impacts and their number, the better tool. The principle of operation of the striker is quite simple - inside the striker strikes the working part, which, after a lunge from the impact, returns to its original position. In addition to the destructive function, the jackhammer, using various platform-type nozzles, is able to compact the surface.
In this article, we will show you how to create a creative hammer handle in the form of a hand.
Hello!
This time, an old Soviet hammer without a handle turned up under my arm, which had been lying idle in my workshop for a long time.
The Internet is full of pictures with the anatomical structure of bones. We choose a more informative and simple drawing, estimate the dimensions of the hammer and approximate size bones and cut rebar.
In my work, I took 12 mm as a basis. round fittings for the handle and 10 mm. for fingers.
From the tool I needed only:
- welding machine.
I used a semi-automatic, but an inverter for RDS, which may well be in yours, will also fit here!
The workflow is pretty straightforward, so instead of tons of text, I'll just go through the chapters and mark the process in a photo.
I made the entire selection of excess on the bones with a sweeping circle of the grinder. 
For the hammer, I made it from 2 pieces of reinforcement. The photo shows that I noted the length of the handle + the segment on which I will later weld the bones + seat under the hammer.
The relief of the pen I betrayed in the same way welding machine and tapping a little on , it turned out to be a kind of hammer handle in garage conditions.
And now, when all the parts are individually ready: hammer, fingers, handle; We start assembling and welding. 
After the hammer was ready, I decided to oxidize and rust it a little - so to speak, to give atmospheric work.
I poured water over the hammer from the sprayer, from which the hammer darkened and got a more interesting look.
Well, you can see the result and the full process in the video!
The hammer in the house is the first tool. And he will hammer a nail, and crack a nut, and straighten the wire. It is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by high level progress, so for each activity you can easily find the most effective tool. If you are doing locksmith work, then you will need a locksmith's hammer. Without this percussion instrument no master can do it.
The purpose of the hammer
Mankind has known and used a hammer for a very long time - even at the dawn of existence. This is the very first tool of labor, as well as the weapon of a primitive man in combination. People, as they developed, improved and changed the hammer. The materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in the following sequence: bone - wood - bronze.
The design of the hammer today has not changed: the butt plate, the striker with a striker and the handle. The striker and the handle are interconnected through a hole that is present in the body, and a wedge hammered into the handle. The tail may be various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead, and rubber. The handle is most often made of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many varieties of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, locksmiths, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers are copper, sledgehammers, straightening, carpentry, mason's and locksmith's hammers.
It is the last of them that the metalwork hammer with a round head is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to extend, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the right point, helping another tool - a chisel, chisel, center punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows in a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A metalwork hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, shape the metal tubes.
The construction of a hammer hammer
The locksmith's hammer differs from the usual one in that it has 2 different strikers in the design - even, which is intended for driving nails, and tapering towards the end, which is convenient to break different objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down and not oblique surface of the striker, without work hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety has become widespread in locksmith practice for light work. And round-faced hammers have one advantage, which is that the striker significantly outweighs the rear, which provides greater accuracy and impact force.
The impact force with a metal hammer depends on the severity of the working part and the movement of the tool. Given speed regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element - by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The impact part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handle is predominantly wood. hard rock(hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and have a length of at least 250 millimeters for hammers. Locksmith hammers have a weight of 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Making a locksmith's hammer
The locksmith's hammer has one weak point - the section of the hammer handle, which is located under the striker. When driving studs, nails, wedges, problems arise, especially on initial stage their fasteners, craftsmen often miss their target and usually hit the nail not with a striker, but with a given section of the handle.
As a result, chips and gouges appear on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, flying off the handle, or break. And the purchase of a locksmith's hammer does not guarantee the opposite, since locksmith's hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in axes.
Of course, in retail outlets and construction stores hammers with plastic or metal handles are presented, which are completely devoid of the problem of fitting the head, however, metalwork hammers with wooden handles are traditional. In addition, they sit more securely in the hand and are warmer to the touch.
Therefore, today we will make a do-it-yourself metalwork hammer with a wooden handle. Remember that it is enough to firmly and securely fix the handle on it once, and it will work unquestioningly.
Hammer handle
So, let's start by making a handle for a metalwork hammer. First, let's talk about the dimensions: the handle should have an oval section, about 250 - 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly towards the end on which the tool head will fit. For the manufacture of the handle, the wood of beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or mountain ash is best suited. It is absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily prickly wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often, handles for metalwork hammers are made of birch. To do this, you will need a small board, from which you need to carve the shape of the handle according to technological map making a metalwork hammer, after which it is good to sand with a construction skin.
If you plan the handle from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, well-ventilated and shady place without fail. Do not try to dry the wood with artificial heat sources: heaters, electric fireplaces and radiators, because with such drying, the wood will inevitably crack and lose its strength.
If the wooden handle for a locksmith's hammer is not dried enough, then it will dry out over time and decrease in volume. And so the head will hang on it, constantly trying to fly off the hammer handle. To make the handle even smoother, it is recommended to cover it with a special furniture varnish. Everything, the handle for the locksmith's hammer is ready, you can proceed to the next step.
Connecting the head to the handle
After manufacturing the handle, it is necessary to insert it with a thin end into the hole in the tool head. It is considered ideal to fit the head of a metalwork hammer on the handle with a certain effort or “with an interference fit”, as the craftsmen used to say.
If the handle turned out to be thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp, and then - sandpaper. The end of the handle of the locksmith's hammer should eventually be a gentle cone. Place the head of the machinist's hammer on the handle, make sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle strictly vertically, with the head of the hammer up, strike it with the back wide end on a hard surface in the direction from top to bottom. The head of the locksmith's hammer with each blow is slowly but surely mounted on the expanding handle, hardening more and more on it. With the following strokes, the immobility of the tool head indicates that it has firmly “sat down” on the handle.
Hammer handle wedge
There are several methods for making a machinist's hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make wedges for a locksmith's hammer with your own hands. Prepare a place for a wedge of wood. So that it does not go to the side and does not spoil the handle, make a notch with a narrow chisel, which has a depth of close to 5 millimeters, at an angle of 30 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the locksmith's hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade that is approximately 3 mm thick, approximately 15 mm wide and 30 - 50 mm long. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end must be made blunt.
After you drive a wooden wedge into the handle of a metalwork hammer by 15-20 millimeters, saw off with a hacksaw with small tooth the upper part of the handle that sticks out of the hammer head, so that it protrudes at least 2-3 millimeters beyond the head.
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wedge from wood, but make it shorter - no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that has a thickness of about half a centimeter. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and drive it into the handle under the same acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer at 30 degrees, but from the center line on the other side.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the hammer handle, the work on the manufacture of a metalwork hammer can be considered completed. Then it is worth placing the metalwork hammer for 5 hours in water so that the wood swells. When the tree dries, the metalwork hammer will no longer stagger.
Using a machinist's hammer
Hammering a nail into a board with a hammer is not such an easy task, although it seems so at first glance. If you made a bad hammer, then the surface will break through under it and dents will occur, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To drive a nail, make sure it goes into work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 hits.
In order for the connection to be strong, the nail must enter at least one third into the working surface. To make the connection rigid, drive the nails towards each other at an angle. The board will not split if the nail has a diameter of no more than one-fourth of its thickness. If you have to hammer a nail into a thin plank, first bite off its tip with wire cutters, which can tear and split the wood. It is easier to drive a nail into a damp tree with a metal hammer than into a dry one.
When driving a nail into dry wood, hold its middle with pliers so that it does not bend with the resistance of dry wood. The boards, which are about 10-12 centimeters wide, are held together with a single nail, wide boards nailed with two nails. If you need to drive multiple nails, then stagger them in multiple rows rather than in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for nailing human fingers is a wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper that is folded in half.
All wooden handles on hand tool, I make from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a blank of a rectangular bar, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is enough. Measure the inner throat of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a bar with sides of approximately 35x25. On one side of the bar, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Build a rectangle around this center with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Drive the ribs and planes of the bar with a planer from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn on the end. Chamfer the corners and round them off. Using sandpaper, fit the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it comes into tension.
The lines on the end of the handle that we drew to build the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches on them, so that the notches do not reach the edge of the handle closer than 5 mm, otherwise the wedges can split the handle.
We drive in wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. I use resinous pine for a wooden wedge, it sticks well to a birch handle.
None paints and varnishes I do not use for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean engine oil, with drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even when left in the rain, the hand does not freeze from it in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this staining color of birch is obtained from oil.
