Sawing machine for wood (sawmill) - rather complex special production equipment, requiring strict observance of safety measures in the course of work. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce the cost of wood construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader figure out how to make a sawmill with their own hands, choose the design that suits them and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.
When is it needed?
Interest in the "do-it-yourself sawmill" actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, in a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In Russia, the situation is significantly different. First, "scissors" of prices for wild log and timber in Russia are already "divorced" a lot. Secondly, the primary processing of wood is a particularly dangerous job, like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian labor protection legislation is draconian in this regard.
The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. Store sawdust (for example, for fuel for the stove long burning) is impossible - they begin to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. “Beyond the hillock” is easier with them - the local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with self-delivery. RF wood is by no means poor and Russian manufacturers slab/sheet wood materials"Left" parties do not take sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill on your own in the Russian Federation may make sense:
- An indispensable condition is if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Rent a timber truck for Russian distances (meaning an idle run from the garage) for Russian roads in the outback per ton-kilometer of cargo is much more expensive than the European one.
- If the indispensable condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction with a chronic shortage Money. Then independent sawing of round timber into timber will reduce the construction estimate by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the cost of manufacturing a sawmill. Resp. the construction period will also be lengthened, but when there is no money, then there is nothing to choose from. With sawdust - do what you want, they will turn out once.
- The next option is sawing wild logs to order at home, i.e. master on call to the master's farmstead. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, this is, perhaps, best option: you can also bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to your place of work in a passenger car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is the owner's problem, and a small one, because. they are also thrown out to him on the site once. The master does not have a headache from them, i.e. you can register, eg. IP carpenter and work "in white".
Design features
The main feature of the sawmill is that the saw in it is always longitudinal. How much more difficult it is to cut wood along the grain is well known. Unlike circular saw the sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general correct form. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working body (actually a saw) moves along the sawn log; otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the washed down. At large timber processing enterprises there are also sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is motionless, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; alignment of the line is provided by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.
Note: sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from butt to top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and / or break.
What to drink?
How affordable for manufacturing, durable, convenient and safe to use will be homemade sawmill, is mainly determined by the design of its working body. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its mode of operation (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of its replacement. And, finally, the energy supply at the place of work is also important: what is more accessible there - electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.
In sawmills of small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6 hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:
- Reciprocating saw bar (old).
- Saw blade (pos. 1 in the figure below).
- Saw blade (pos. 2).
- Saw chain (pos. 3).
- Chain saw bar continuous action(new, item 4).
- Household chainsaw (pos. 5).
How to drink?
The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and washed down will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical washed down, firstly, reduces the waste of material, because. it is enough to align the log under it only in a horizontal plane. Under a horizontal cut, a log to minimize waste requires alignment both horizontally and vertically, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hump”). Secondly, when sawing vertically, the sawed off (sawn off part of the log) does not put pressure on the working body and clings to it much less. Therefore, for sawing the same timber vertically, the drive power is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:
Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill
But, firstly, the injury risk of vertical sawmills is much higher than horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of a log under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and it is extremely difficult or even impossible to ensure the maximum allowable sawing accuracy according to specifications up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a self-made vertical sawmill. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal gash.
The structural composition of the sawmill
We will talk about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill a little further. First you need to deal with the design sawing machine generally. It consists of:
- working body - saws (see above and below);
- drive to it from the motor;
- saw carriage;
- rail track (guide) for it;
- carriage (lodgment) for a log;
- grips-holders for him;
- a frame that combines all this into an integral device and provides its overall strength and reliability.
Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.
Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:
Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Second, the minimum welding work during assembly. This important point A: metal structures when welding leads; because of this, it is very problematic to lay the accuracy of sawing with a welded sawmill in TU. Thirdly, the rail track of the carriage (pos. 13 on the right) from a steel angle, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by the rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the bearing shoes of the carriage are pairs of conventional rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; carriage tremor is the main cause of cutting defects. Another consequence is the mechanism for feeding the carriage without a gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design, it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above under a horizontal cut; disk, with a tire of continuous action and a chainsaw, also for vertical.
The disadvantage of this machine is comb-shaped log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will turn out to be no thinner than 60 mm. In addition, material waste will increase because the vertical alignment of the log in this machine is impossible. However, getting rid of these shortcomings is not so difficult by using a separate carriage for a log of a simple design, see below.
Some explanations require the operation of the unit for setting the thickness of the cut (on the sidebar), which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. Nuts 5 on the tie-in are welded to the base plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (pos. 1 on the sidebar and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (pos. 20 on the right). The locknuts (pos. 2 on the sidebar) do not need to be loosened: they will loosen themselves. After installing the saw in a new position below the previous one, the lock nuts are tightened by hand.
Saw like a saw - rip
A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill - from the flywheel to the crank mechanism through the slider - is a smooth steel rod sliding in a clip with bronze or babbit inserts (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In the old days, instead of a saw tire, craftsmen put blades of carpentry bow saws; they also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the web tension on the return stroke is provided by a sufficiently strong return spring.
The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. little waste of material. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:
- Low productivity: if the carriage feed on the reverse motion of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the height of the tooth, i.e. 4 mm, the saw gets stuck.
- It is impossible to cut a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the canvas immediately gets stuck and wrinkled.
- Raw, unseasoned wood does not take, it also immediately bogs down and breaks.
- It often gets stuck in knots and squirrels.
- With insufficient tension on the reverse stroke, the cut deteriorates sharply - it becomes wide and torn.
- The same - with an excessively strong return spring.
In professional timber processing, reciprocating saw bars went out of use by the end of the 19th century, and among amateurs - with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.
Disk
A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit into a sawmill: it is made of steel of poorer quality than is required in this case. When sawing damp logs, the material of the disc from the circular will soon self-release due to heating, the disc will quickly fail or it will be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade for a sawmill, pleasure is not cheap. In separate sources, you can find advice: they say, cut a round from galvanized (!) Or duralumin (!!!), fasten 2-4 teeth on it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.
Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking, because. allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from the wood in one pass; for this, angle and multi-blade saw carriages are used (top left inset in the figure). However, an industrial sawmill is a complex structure, see fig., on the topic “with your own hands” does not pass in any way.
An amateur, if he gets hold of a sawmill disk (diameter from 600 mm, the tooth profile is the same as that of a longitudinal saw, see above), you need to keep in mind its advantages and disadvantages:
- Large resource - up to 5000 hours and more complete; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
- Required for sharpening grinding machine, there is no way to do it manually.
- The cut is not very even with a width of 3-5 mm, i.e. material waste up to 10-12% by volume. A “clean cut” disc, giving a waste of 2-5%, costs 3-10 times more than a simple one.
- You can cut without technical breaks for the whole 6 hours. shift; maximum performance in this class of devices.
- High power consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in a cut with a large side surface. To get the required drive power in kW, multiply the log diameter in dm by 1.7.
- The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed have practically no effect on the productivity.
- A disc with a diameter of 800 mm can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
- Larger discs in amateur designs are very dangerous, because. require a high-precision drive to avoid beating.
- The drive is only electric, because. The idle disc must rotate absolutely smoothly. In the tree, he already has more than enough twitching.
In general, a do-it-yourself sawmill is definitely not an option. Consider the drawings in fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is a carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: the rollers are skewed by 1-2 mm when the carriage is moved. The result is a disc warp of 6 mm or more. Immediately - his stuck in a tree. Given the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.
Further, the lower edge of the disc must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish sawing it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first crust. What's next? In theory, the grooves in the carriage need several according to the thickness of the resulting boards. After each washed down, either the carriage rises, moves forward and again falls into the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Do you imagine such a design, made at home? No, it's going to give you a headache.
What if it's simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, not easy. It must be laid again so that the next washed down runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there is not a stick, there is a hefty heavy block of wood.
Well, let's say our family / staff are heroic, we don't care to turn logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then we look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, it's a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the gun carriage, or tip over when 2-3 chopping blocks are sawn off (unedged boards in the entire wood for dissolution on measured boards). The holder falls on the very middle of the log. You can't pee on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most uniformly drying core chopping block will most likely go to waste, because. due to the shifting of the log, it will turn out to be unacceptably converging to a wedge in thickness.
Note: an amateur single-disk sawmill for a horizontal saw is no more convenient and no more productive than a vertical one, but structurally it is much more complicated and dangerous.
So, a do-it-yourself circular sawmill is an option in one single case: if you come up with an improvement in the rank of a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all others, it is not necessary.
Saw tape
The band sawmill is one of the inventions that give a significant result with trivial technical solutions. A reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of a reverse motion. So, you need to get rid of it to get a continuous saw blade. As a result operational properties band sawmills differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines of a similar purpose:
- Productivity - up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
- It cuts both aged and raw freshly chopped round timber.
- The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of a rip saw blade, and material waste is just as low.
- The cutting accuracy is as high as that of a sawmill, provided that the saw blade is evenly and optimally tensioned.
- Sawing logs immediately into pieces of measured materials is impossible.
- Energy consumption per 1 cu. m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a sawmill.
- In order to avoid self-tempering of the material of the tape, technical breaks in work are necessary: after each washing down for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) - 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work - half an hour-hour; from 6 hour shift to next. the same - at least 2 hours.
- Full resource of the working body (tape) - 100-500 hours; restart is not possible.
- The cost of a tape in terms of an hour of work is much less than a simple saw blade.
- The cost of the entire machine is several times less than that of a disk machine with an angle carriage for one cut.
- The drive is electric, because the idle smoothness of the tape needs to be as high as for the disk.
Due to these features band sawmill finds the widest application in small sawmills. According to most of the ads: “We accept a round log / log for sawing”, it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).
The simplest way to do rip saw- roll her canvas into a ring and put it on the pulleys, pos. 1 next. fig.. To avoid injury by a non-working branch of the canvas, a protective cover is put on the working body. Doing a sawmill with a tape without it (pos. 2) is extremely dangerous!
The second stumbling block for do-it-yourselfers here is the tape pulleys. The branded profile of the side surface (working) has a special slightly convex profile. The tape slips from the cylindrical pulley; flanges (rims) do not help. Some craftsmen from this tilt the entire sawing knot up 1-3 degrees. However, if the tension of the tape loosens a little (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without protective cover this is even more dangerous than sliding down.
Craftsmen smarter found a way out: the tape is put on wheels from cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in fig. and fig. at first. Their profile is almost exactly what you need, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least for sawing a whole log. In addition, if thin enough are sawn quality materials, then you can get by with the simplest friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. Simplifies the manufacture of the machine, because. auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:
Video: do-it-yourself band sawmill
Transfer to saw
When sawing raw raw logs and knotty / serrated and viscous small-layered wood, the transmission from the drive to the tape (main) also turns out to be a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristic of the belt is too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. The gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will become stuck in the tree and collapse, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.
The best main gear for a band sawmill is chain. Idling tape it provides almost as smooth as a belt. And when sawing a “bad” tree, the own inertia of the chain pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the heterogeneity of the wood is successfully overcome. The same property chain drive used, eg. in screw wood splitters.
Chain instead of ribbon
Working body chain sawmill- a chain with saw teeth, stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, resource and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length to wear is lower. The saw chain is subject to resharpening (a sharpening machine is needed!) and does not require technical interruptions during the shift. The drive can be non-volatile from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.
Disadvantages, firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against the tree, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs to be sanded (therefore, a grinder is not often built into a grinder) or will go on sale as a second grade. Consequence: increased waste of material, up to 15% by volume. The third is that in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (coolant, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. Fourth - a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the properties of the chain: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: regrinding and / or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fuss with them - mother, do not worry!
Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used predominantly. for the primary sawing of forests at stock exchanges and at harvesting sites. In the latter case decisive role the non-volatility of a machine with an internal combustion engine plays: it is brought on a truck or tractor, the woods are spread into planks and they are taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, timber losses are often more than compensated for by savings on transportation of round timber by timber trucks. But such an approach, of course, does not go to the benefit of the forest as a living community. And from excessive felling, and from clogging with sawdust.
Tire new
The continuous saw bar is a cantilever bar chain Saw, i.e. tension-free at the end far from the drive; coolant supply is also not needed. Do you recognize? This is the “canvas” of a chainsaw. Application modern materials and continuous improvement of the design has made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable for domestic use in all respects. A sawmill from a chainsaw at home is also made much easier than any other; drawings of a bed with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its operational qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as the chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cut is carried out simply by moving the carriage. But be aware:
- The life of the saw motor will be reduced by approx. twice.
- Full resource "canvas" best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and cheap - 10-12 hours.
- Every 2-3 hours you will need regrinding, and every 4-6 hours you will need to replace the teeth (if it is possible for this sample).
- The total working time during the day is 2-3 hours.
- Technical break until the next shift - from 12 hours.
- The saw must be designed for both transverse and longitudinal cuts.
The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. For models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example), both cuts are provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in the sawmill, because. it is impossible to stop the carriage while the sawing is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. For “alternative” manufacturers, most often the opposite is true: by default, only a cross saw is used. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.
For sawmills, special continuous saw bars are produced. Due to the rejection of the transverse cut, their extension (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - as in saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be of a conventional design (on the left in the figure), but in the context of home-made ones, a tire sawmill of the Logosol type is of much greater interest, center-right in the figure. Spring-loaded edging supports keep the log from rolling. Elevators are adjustable separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.
The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 1930s, the export of raw wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through well-established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which have forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber with norms even from a log. In the EU, the main own logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are enough smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working on an acute shortage of raw materials. At local prices for timber, the calculation of income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing into a board-beam in my yard gave results that made my eyes but forehead climb. Plus - there is no disposal headache from sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling them. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with the sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with pressure. This requires more work and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Hobbyists have developed many modifications to be sure successful development Byström. Their drawings of Logosols and nodes for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. And how to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:
Video: do-it-yourself mobile-stationary Logosol "Terya"
The appearance of Logosol is the immediate reason for the development of saw bars for sawmills. On sale there are their models, interfaced with household chainsaws: remove the regular canvas, put the tire. Thus, the matter with the cost and laboriousness of the drive was also decided: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.
Mini
Further development of Logosol's idea - a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; with careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and the drive, only the support platform and the handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.
The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, at the top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from a corner, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones - according to the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is needed, a channel is laid (bottom right), because. in this case, a flat lateral support surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing a log on a carriage, aligning it and holding it.
Carriage, grips, clamps
There was such a problem as a frame with additional nodes. The one in pos. 1 fig. on the left is far from optimal. For a one-time sawing on a self-construction, it is too complicated and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200-mm channel, it will not sag on the first or second ten logs, which means the machine is completely unusable. A stationary sawmill must be made with a separate concreted rail track and a carriage for a log (pos. 2; we will not focus on safety in this case - the topic of this article is different).
The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, they use hydraulic jacks in hooks. The log is hung on a hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and the hydraulics immediately level the wood according to the signals from the sensors.
In amateur conditions, the first is hardly feasible; the second is not feasible. In many homemade sawmills, log grips are made as shown in fig. below. The log is hung on car jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along the guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are knocked out with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.
Firstly, such a fastening is simply dangerous: the grips can wedge due to vibrations during sawing, and this is an accident, most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the forest by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over without finishing it to half. As a result, the quality of sawing and the waste of material will be the same as on a vertical single-disk sawmill, see above.
gun carriage
Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage, suitable incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on site:
- materials - ordinary rolled metal without preliminary rejection for evenness;
- for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
- the influence of the quality of welding and warping of the metal from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
- prepared base (supporting) surface - not required;
- weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup truck and on the top trunk of a passenger car;
- the maximum length of the processed log is 6 m;
- its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
- leveling and hanging the log - in any way independent of the gun carriage, see below;
- the influence of the evenness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
- the reliability of holding the most clumsy unrooted timber is absolute;
- the possibility of dissolving sawn planks on edged measuring boards / beams without readjusting the sawmill is a must;
- security - sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of unprepared outsiders is easily controlled.
Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. mini, satisfying the specified conditions, are given in fig. (left/center - top view). Material - channel 120x60, bar 14 and 16 mm.
Exactly under the holes M14 in the upper shelf of the channel, holes D15 are drilled in the lower one for the passage of the shanks of the hook-holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded legs. The configuration in plan and the location of the grippers-holders allow you to securely hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage as follows:
- the log is hung out and leveled on a pair of car jacks. Option - one jack in turn: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and raise the other;
- the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with a widened part to the butt and aligned along the axis of the forest. If the log was hung on a hoist, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
- the hook-holders are turned out until the log touches so that their points look inward exactly at each other. Missing one turn (per thread pitch M14) does not affect the sawing accuracy;
- the log is lowered onto hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and prop, then the jack is first released, and then the prop is knocked out with one sharp blow;
- to reliably hold a thin light log, you can sit on it and jump;
- they saw a log with any sawmill with horizontal cuts. The thickness of the last slab in the vast majority will not exceed 40 mm.
Clamps
The full functionality of this carriage will be provided by 2-5 clamps (almost always 3 are enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the regular holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook-holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! For dissolution into boards / beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on a gun carriage and spread out on boards / bars with horizontal cuts.
Outcome
Let's like, as they say, grandmas: what kind of sawmill to do with your own hands and in what cases it makes sense.
If you see a circle of clientele for sawing and / or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - band sawing on auto and motorcycle wheels. It will last at least until it has enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in all its form and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is an auxiliary activity for you, the Logosol sawmill will show itself better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy for it on the farm.
When carrying out construction or carpentry work, lumber is always needed. These can be boards for various purposes, beams for foundations and floors, parts of building structures.
To have enough stock necessary materials, you will often have to cut raw logs. Of course you can buy finished products, but the financial costs will increase several times.
A factory-made sawmill is also not cheap. However, you can make a completely functional sawmill with your own hands at home, and the costs will be much less.
Varieties
Depending on the design of the working part, a home-made sawmill is made of three types:
- circular sawmill;
- tape;
- tire.
Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Disk installation
Among homemade devices The most common are saw blades. They have gained wide popularity due to their versatility and ease of assembly.
Most suitable for one-time construction works or for a small business that does not involve large volumes of production. The basis of this design is a circular saw mounted on an electric motor or on a spindle.
In most cases, the so-called "circular" is made - solid foundation in the form on which the engine and the shaft with a circular saw are fixed.
The base is made of wooden or metal parts, which are fixed in a crosswise position and secured with a board of a suitable size. Metal plates are fastened on top of the board with bolts.
In the resulting plate, it is necessary to leave a slot for the saw and holes for mounting the engine. The holes must be additionally countersunk and then fastened with screws.
The saw must be installed strictly in the middle of the resulting structure. The upper plate is connected to the base with screws; an insert for the disc is fixed in the hole between the plates. The thrust bar is attached last.
note: when assembling a sawmill, close attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening of all structural elements. An insecurely fastened saw blade is a serious threat to human health and life.
With the help of a homemade sawmill, you can make timber, slats different sizes and veneer. The rotation speed of the saw is sufficient to obtain quality products with smooth edges and cuts.
Belt type
Installations using band saws are used in the production of lumber in industrial volumes.
Private industries in most cases are equipped with self-made sawmills, made on the basis of drawings of factory units. The main advantage of such devices is the ability to quickly cut large logs with a total weight of up to three hundred kilograms.
The manufacture of a band sawmill requires special training and sufficient a large number various building materials:
- pipes of various sizes and diameters;
- metal corners for mounting the rail system;
- channel;
- pulleys;
- profile pipes for sleepers.
In addition, you will need tools for working with metal - a welding machine, an electric drill, a grinder and a set of fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws).
Work on the manufacture of the device begins with the installation of a fixed part - the frame. The shape of this design resembles the letter "P", the material is two channels or corners 50X100 mm.
The standard length of the channel is 8 - 9 meters, the height is not less than 14 cm. After mounting the frame, holes are drilled in it, the gaps between which must be at least one meter.
After that, it is necessary to tighten the channels with pipes 25 cm long, fastening is done using bolts right size and studs. After that, the racks are mounted on which the sawmill will be fixed. To increase stability, the structure is additionally strengthened with the required number of braces.
It is important to know: the proportions of all parts must match; for a sawmill 9 meters long, a saw with a size of at least a meter is required.
A saw is attached to the trolley, a steering wheel is installed on the side to control the operation of the unit. Clamps are made of pipes with a diameter of not more than 40 mm, movable hoses are installed inside. From above, clamps from metal corners are installed on the pipes.
Lastly, the saw blade and engine are installed. The construction of the structure is best done directly at the site of future work, since the total weight of the band sawmill is very large.
You may also be interested in the article on how to make a vibrating table for paving slabs:
Tire (logosol)
A home-made unit is fundamentally different from other types of sawmills in its device.
The main task is the longitudinal sawing of logs, the production of high-quality veneer and laths. Numerous videos on the net provide comprehensive information about all stages of mounting a tire sawmill.
This type of sawmill is used in small industries for the manufacture of mini blanks of non-standard shape and size. In home-made units, a chainsaw blade of a suitable size is used as a working part.
The structure consists of a profile working height which is just over a metre. The chainsaw is moved by a trolley.
The exact height is calculated taking into account the growth of the worker in order to avoid a long stay in an uncomfortable position. A log is placed on the main profile, the saw moves and cuts according to pre-set parameters.
The main condition necessary for the high-quality operation of such devices is sufficient weight and rigidity of the main profile, as well as the presence required amount supports. A minimum of four stable wheels and a hand drive are required to obtain a straight cut line.
It is best to use a well wrench with a drive wheel. To adjust the thickness of the product, rigid fixation jacks are installed.
Independent production of a sawmill of any type is a laborious and complex process. Whether it is expedient to spend time and money, everyone decides for himself. In any case, when installing a unit of any type, one must not forget about safety precautions.
Injuries while working with wood are common, and homemade equipment, collected with insufficient quality, is a danger to the owner.
How to cheaply make a sawmill with your own hands, see the following video:
Since ancient times, wood has been the most sought after building material. And if earlier quite primitive tools were used for its processing, today the latest modern technology is used. So, for example, in order to cut wood and process it to the desired size, builders resort to the help of a sawmill. Unfortunately, such a tool is not cheap and therefore it is not available to everyone. Home craftsmen found a way out of this situation by making a sawmill from a chainsaw with their own hands. Tips for its design, drawings and video instructions can be found on numerous Internet sites, as well as in our article.
Types and features of chainsaw sawmills
Construction markets offer a large selection of sawmills, which are based on a chainsaw. Mounted in a trolley with rollers, the unit can be manually moved along a pre-laid rail track. For harvesting wood, a powerful chain or band saw chainsaw can be used.
For living conditions large sawmills are most often not required, so the best solution would be to make a functional home-made mini-machine. This unit will have small size which makes it easy to move if needed.
More often as the main element similar device protruding chainsaw, which can be purchased at a specialized store or use a Ural brand unit.
Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw: video instructions and drawings
Having available drawings and having studied the video instruction, it is quite simple to make a structure for processing logs, boards and slats on your own. Before starting work, you must select appropriate place. You can install a sawmill from a chainsaw in an old barn, garage, hangar, or even just under a canopy. If the room for the unit is closed, then you should take care of the hood.
Chainsaw sawmill - option number 1
For the manufacture of the structure, in addition to the chainsaw, you will need:
- two channels 8 meters long and 140-180 millimeters high;
- two rails;
- corners 50x100 mm and 40x40 mm;
- segments water pipe 25 cm as screeds;
- steel plate 4-6 cm thick and 60 cm long;
- movable hoses;
- pipes with a diameter of 35-40 mm.
Do-it-yourself sawmill should start with the assembly of the base from rails and corners turned upside down 50x100 mm. They must be installed strictly parallel to the floor, so you need to use the building level.
- According to the drawing, holes are drilled along the length of the base in increments of 1-1.5 meters and a diameter of 14-16 mm.
- Then, according to the number of holes, screeds are taken, which are connected with bolts.
- Racks are made of metal squares and a base is placed on them. The distance between the end posts and the base should be about 100 cm.
- To make the structure more rigid, the braces between the uprights can be welded.
After the base is completed and installed, you need to make a movable cart with your own hands. For this a corner is welded on the bottom of the steel plate 40x40 mm and the product is placed on rollers or bearings. Two corners are welded on top of the plate, to which a chainsaw is attached.
On last step work on the manufacture of a home-made sawmill, it is necessary to make a structure for fixing the logs. To do this, movable hoses and pipes should be positioned at the required height and secured.
The first version of a homemade sawmill from a chainsaw is ready. There is another way to make a do-it-yourself woodworking unit. The tools and drawing for it will need the same, however, the design itself is more refined.
Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw - option number 2
The design consists of four main nodes:
- Driven saws.
- Mechanism for regulating the thickness of the manufactured board.
- Mechanism for moving the saw part of the structure.
- Devices for fixing logs.
Since a chainsaw with a working engine and cutting teeth is already available, it will be necessary to make only both mechanisms and a device for fixing logs with your own hands.
Mechanism for adjusting the thickness of the boards.
Logs are sawn by raising or lowering the base, which must be welded to the plate with four nuts with bent edges. Top of this device locknuts need to be installed, which must be tightened after the unit has been adjusted to the desired thickness of the material being processed.
Mechanism for moving the saw.
The saw in the structure moves along the frame along the guide corners, the distance between which should be 50 cm. weld two rollers or bearings by 20 mm. The lower roller should keep the sawmill from lifting, and the upper roller should be supported on the guide angle.
Device for fixing logs.
On such a unit logs are fastened with two combs- fixed and moving by means of a screw. After the material to be processed is installed, the moving comb is fixed with screws in a stationary state. Now you can begin to safely operate a homemade sawmill made from a chainsaw.
The sawmill is an impressive rather dangerous unit, therefore, before starting its assembly, you should carefully consider the place of its operation. It should be well lit, ventilated and have free space. The nearby warehouse for finished boards will greatly facilitate the material processing process.
For a sawmill with an electric motor, you should carefully install the necessary switches and machines, as well as do the wiring.
Since the most dangerous elements of the unit are all its cutting and moving parts, they should be given special attention when assembling the structure.
Before starting the operation of the assembled equipment, it is necessary to check all fastenings and components, as well as the stability of the structure.
Operating instructions for a homemade sawmill from a chainsaw
After the design is assembled and tested, it must be tested in working with wood. For this you need:
Jerking movements when sawing should not be done, as this can lead to a tire stopper.
It should be borne in mind that must wear personal protective equipment, which include mittens, a dressing gown, sleeves and glasses. In addition, it is worth worrying about protection for the movable frame in advance. It can be made from acrylic or clear plastic. Such shields are able to protect against saw chain and chips.
A sawmill assembled with your own hands from a chainsaw will make it possible to produce high-quality lumber with a cut of the correct shape. Therefore, if you often have to work with lumber, then such home-made equipment, made on the basis of the attached drawings and videos, will become an indispensable thing on the farm.
It allows you to save significantly if there is a need for constant processing of wood during the construction of houses, on the farm, or if you have your own small production.
Of course, you can not rack your brains and buy a tool, but a do-it-yourself tool, as mentioned above, will be much cheaper.
A band sawmill is better known to many as a band saw. Depending on the scope of work, the type of tool is selected.
The sawmill can be belt type, chain or disk type. We are considering the manufacture of a tape type.
The principle of operation of a band sawmill is very easy to explain using the example of spools of thread.
The whole structure resembles the rotation of two coils, between which a thread is stretched. This thread plays the role of a saw, and the distance between the coils is the maximum size of the log.
What does a band sawmill do?
- Prepare logs, that is, adjust them to one size and shape;
- Sawing logs according to a given pattern after setting up the equipment;
- After sawing, small defects remain that cannot be eliminated using home-made sawmills, so further wood processing is done manually.
The band sawmill works as follows: the log is fixed on the platform and remains stationary, the mobile cart starts its movement and cuts the tree, the saw is in a horizontal position.
In order to end up with a board of the desired size, it is necessary to initially set the parameters by the operator. The saw blade acts as a saw, which must be well stretched.
How a homemade sawmill works, see the video.
Before work, it is necessary to prepare the equipment: for this, they sharpen the saw, set the teeth.
What materials are needed to create a sawmill?
It should be noted that the materials are selected depending on whether the drawings are made or not, because it is correct drawing is the basis of a quality product, thanks to which the calculation of materials is made:
- Pulleys can be taken new or old in good condition;
- Pipes of various diameters;
- Rails - you can make yourself from the corners. It is better to place the corners with an edge up, this is necessary in order to extend the “life” of the wheels;
- Profile pipes for creating sleepers;
- Channel.
In addition to materials, you will need the following tools:
- welding machine;
- milling machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill, it is more convenient to use an electric one;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- sets of screwdrivers and wrenches;
- clamp;
- bolts, nuts and other fasteners;
- rulers, tape measure, squares, etc.;
- hacksaw.
Sawmill design
The block principle underlies the organization of work.
It involves various variations of the device, starting with the basic one, where the saw is fed manually, ending with the most complex units, when the saw is fed automatically, the cutting thickness is set, the electronic system is programmed, etc.
Components of the structure:
- to organize the movement of the sawing tape, a frame with two guides is used;
- screw mechanism for lifting the tape;
- hydraulic or spring unit for belt tension;
- driving and driven wheels (pulleys);
- wheel guard;
- tape holder;
- V-belt transmission;
- electric motor;
- rail for the movement of the band saw;
- eccentric clamps for holding a bar (log);
- emphasis;
- wetting liquid tank.
To create an even, reliable product, it is necessary to make drawings according to which the entire structure will be assembled.
At the same time, the drawing must be studied and understood, otherwise you can simply lose not only time, but also money.
First, a frame (fixed part) of the machine is made, which has a U-shape.
It can be made from two channels, which can be replaced by two rails (for lack of the first materials). If you use rails, then they need to be installed so that the sole is on top.
The bed can also be made from corners (50x100 mm).
The height of the channel should be at least 14 cm, the length should be about 8 meters.
Holes must be drilled along the entire length of the materials in increments of 1-1.5 m. After that, with the help of pipes, the length of which is 25 cm, the channels must be pulled together.
Threaded rods or bolts are used for this.
In this case, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of braces, since it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the product. See drawing.
Next, a mobile trolley is assembled, the dimensions of which are set depending on the width of the bed, while the trolley on both sides should be slightly larger (about 8 cm) than the bed.
The length of the mobile structure should be approximately 60 cm. Most often, the trolley is made of steel plate, the thickness of which is 46 mm.
A special steering wheel is installed on the side of the structure body, which provides control of the trolley.
The guides on the sides must be equipped with sprockets to which the steering wheel is connected.
The entire structure moves with the help of a tensioned chain, which eliminates the free movement of the steering wheel.
So that during the operation of the sawmill the log does not jump out, it is necessary to make clamps that are made of pipes.
It is more convenient to use pipes whose inner diameter does not exceed 35-40 mm, since movable rods will be installed inside.
Clamps must be placed on the pipes from above. The metal corner is the material from which the clamps are constructed. Clamping cam mechanisms must also be installed.
If the clamping elements are less than 15 mm, then there can be no talk of reliability of the design.
If you take up the engine at the end of the work, then you must purchase it in advance so that the proportions of the entire structure are correct.
For the example under consideration (the length of the bed is 8 m), the engine power must be at least 10 kW, and the saw diameter must not be less than 1 m.
Otherwise, the dimensions of the entire structure must be revised to smaller ones.
In order for a homemade sawmill to work more efficiently, you should pay attention to some recommendations:
- The design must be stable and strong, since it is necessary to work with logs of various weights and sizes;
- It is necessary to carry out work on the assembly of equipment directly at the place where it is planned to be placed. This is due to the massiveness and heavy weight of the structure;
- It is necessary to constantly monitor the operation of the equipment and adjust the settings, since the design is done by hand, without the use of precise programs and computerization;
- Home-made sawmills are “scattered” with chips, so you need to either build additional structures or clean up after the work has been completed;
- A wide band cut affects the formation of a large amount of waste;
- To provide effective work mobile trolley, it is necessary to use gaskets and plates, while the gaskets must be taken in thickness more than the channel by 0.5 mm;
- The motor can be easily replaced gasoline engine. This option will be simpler, because you can use a chainsaw, or rather its engine. The chainsaw blade will go as a tape. How to make a gasoline band sawmill, see the video;
- All fixing elements must be securely fastened to ensure safe work the whole structure;
- To ensure efficient operation, the saw must be sharpened and the teeth set apart.
Disc sawmill
Consider a simpler type of homemade sawmill.
In order to make a sawmill, you need to find circular saw. An electric motor will be used as a motor.
First you need to make a welded frame on which you will need to put metal plate with slot for disc. From below, the plate shaft must be attached to the plate on bearings and pulleys.
Wheel electric motor connects to the saw with a belt.
To ensure good belt tension, it is necessary to use the mass of the engine itself, and you can also use weights. The sawmill is ready.
Good day! We will not talk for a long time and immediately get down to business. IN this material you are presented with a guide with which you can make a band sawmill with your own hands. So let's get down to the description.
Pulleys used in this device, used to have a harvester similar to the Neva, they have a diameter of 300-320 mm. The pulleys are grinded a little, this is done in order to achieve a slight protrusion of the belt. In the future, the belts can be removed completely, this will allow the device to work more quietly and productively.
Turning work here is involved to a minimum. This became possible due to the fact that a half-inch pipe and a pipe that is put on top of it with a gap of 1-2 mm are used as guides.
First, let's look at the "rails"
As a rail, we use a 5 cm corner, which is installed so that the side is on top, most often, it is installed so that the edge of the corner is at the top. This makes it possible for the wheel not to wear out.
As "Sleepers" we use profile pipe 2.5 by 2.5 cm. It is also welded like sleepers, between profile tubes, and a half-inch pipe, which is equipped with claw fasteners. The movement and inclination of fasteners is carried out in a free mode, the tree is clamped by hammer blows on the clamp, which, due to this, is wedged.
The protrusion of profile tubes beyond the rails has also been implemented. These protrusions are equipped with adjusting bolts (M14 per 100 mm).
Profile tubes have "bridges" on top of which are stacked scorched. The distance from one bridge to another is 500 mm (for short workpieces).
The pulleys with their bodies (hubs from the Moskvich car) are welded onto the tubes, and the entire structure as a whole moves along the horizontal guide tubes (half-inch tubes) and is fixed with bolts.
- The right (driven) pulley is tensioned automatically using a spring (taken in the KaSiki shock absorber).
- The position of the left (leading) is fixed, but there is the possibility of movement when the size in the band saw changes.
A do-it-yourself band sawmill cannot be made without rollers. When developing rollers, it is worth remembering that they must be hardened. The entire sawmill can be made in the garage, only turning work can be a problem.
For reasons of simplicity, we carry out the implementation of the “roller assembly”, using a set of bearings for this, a pair of identical ones and a little more at the back.
The installation of the "Rollers" is carried out on a machined shaft so that it is possible to install washers between the bearings (if the width of the saw changes). The installation of the shaft is carried out in the same pair of pipes that was described earlier, the shaft and half-inch are welded so that the axes are offset (shown in blue).
The whole structure is attached over the guide tubes in such a way that the assembly can be adjusted vertically and moved from side to side with the possibility of locking (to adjust the opening according to the diameter of the log). To the roller, which is installed where the driven pulley, we attach a dropper for coolant. For the manufacture of the frame, a channel (100) is used, the height of which is 150 cm. The frame is stiffened using scarves. The frame can "play" a little, it's not scary. Backlash is present even in factory-made sawmills.
The movement of the "Cutting block" is carried out over the channels with the help of stud screws. To make the installation of the "cutting block" rigid, we use bolts with lock nuts. Details of the lifting mechanism in the images.
