I am building a model that mimics a real mini jet engine, even if my version is electric. In fact, everything is simple and everyone can build a jet engine with their own hands at home.

The way I designed and built a homemade jet engine is not The best way do it. I can imagine a million ways and schemes how to create best model, more realistic, more reliable and easier to manufacture. But now I've got one.

Main parts of jet model engine:

• Engine direct current strong enough and at least 12 volts
• A DC source of at least 12 volts (depending on which DC motor you have).
• Rheostat, the same one sold for adjusting the brightness of light bulbs.
• Flywheel gearbox found in many car toys. It's best if the gear case is made of metal because plastic can melt at such high speeds.
• A sheet of metal that can be cut to make fan blades.
• Ammeter or voltmeter.
• The potentiometer is about 50K.
• An electromagnet coil from a solenoid or any other source.
• 4 diodes.
• 2 or 4 permanent magnet.
• Cardboard to assemble a jet engine case.
• Body filler for cars, to create an exterior.
• Hard wire to support everything. I usually use wires from cheap hangers. They are strong enough and flexible enough to give them the desired shape.
• Glue. For most parts, I prefer hot glue, but almost any glue will do now.
• White, silver and black paint.

Step 1: Attach DC Motor to Gearbox Flywheel

The basis of my jet engine model is very simple. Attach the DC motor to the gearbox. The idea is that the motor drives the part of the gearbox that was attached to the wheels. toy car. Place the plastic lever so that it hits the small flywheel gear and it makes a noise. Some gearboxes are already equipped with this device and some are not.

Step 2: Connect the magnets and coil for the sensor

Place 2 or 4 permanent magnets on the main shaft so that the coil can be next to them as they rotate. Place them so that the polarity pattern is - + - +. The idea is that the magnets will pass close to the coil and generate a small amount of current which we will use to move the sensor. But for this to work, you need to put 4 diodes in a bridged configuration to convert alternating current, which we generate, into a constant.

Google "diode bridge" for more information on this. Also, to calibrate the sensor to the desired sensitivity, you need to place a potentiometer between the coil and the sensor.

Step 3: Speed ​​control rheostat

We need to control the speed of the engine. To do this, place a rheostat between the socket and the power source. If you don't know how to do this, google how to connect a rheostat to light bulbs. But instead of a light bulb, we will put a power supply.

Don't try this unless you are 100% sure. We are dealing with a large current and using the wrong power source can disable it. The simpler the power supply, the better. The alternative is to find a DC rheostat so that we can control the voltage after power is applied. I could not find one in any store, so I use a rheostat for light bulbs. But if you can find one that will work with a DC motor, then take it. The idea is to just control how much current goes to the motor, so this will be our choke.

Step 4: Fan

You can make the fan the way you want. I cut every blade from thin sheet metal and glued them. You can make them out of cardboard and then paint them. Or, if you have access to a 3D printer, you can 3D print a fan. www.thingiverse.com has some great 3D fan models.

Step 5: Body

You can make the body out of cardboard and then add the outer core to give it shape. You will have to do a lot of sanding, so it's hard and dirty work. When you've smoothed everything out, paint over the body with glossy white paint.

The inside of the engine must be painted black. The front of the engine usually has a silver edge that you can paint on if you wish.

Step 6: Starter Mechanism

The starter and fuel supply knobs are connected mechanically. The starter has a switch that connects the engine to the power source. This switch can also be activated by the fuel control lever when it is in the run position.

The starter spring must be loaded in such a way that it wants to return to its normal position and will only lock the start position if the fuel control lever is in the off position.

The idea is for the starter to stay in its rest position until you move the fuel lever to the run position, and the fuel control lever will now hold the switch on. Also, the fuel lever is part of the base of the rheostat. The rheostat must be installed in such a way that it is possible to rotate not only the part of the handle that must be rotated, but also the entire base of the rheostat. This base is what the fuel control moves to increase speed when it is in the run position. It's hard to explain and so to better understand the concept, you should watch the third part of the video.

Definition and technical description.

* - automatic translation of a part of the book.

It's a curiolls fact that you won't find the term "turbine" in most physics books.

The turbine's jet produces thrust, accelerating the mass of air. When masses of air are accelerated in a stream they create thrust. Forces are measured in Newtons, not kilograms and grams! The force of 1 Newton (denoted by the letter N) acts when a mass of 1 kg accelerates or slows down by 1 m / s. The change in speed over time is defined as acceleration and is measured in m/s.

In the encyclopedia in the section "turbine" it is written: "POWERFUL ENGINE, in which the energy of the moving medium
(water, steam, gas) is converted into useful energy another name - turbojet engine.
The predecessors were windmills and water wheels, Specialist technical books on the subject explain the various tour escapes in some detail under the main heading jet jet.

In Dubbel Engineering you will find the definition: "a gas turbine is a machine that uses heat to transfer mechanical energy (shaft power) or thrust (for example, aircraft engines)", respectively, the term gas turbines is a general term for all types of Turbo Jet engines.
Jet turbines, as well as turboprop engines. All are considered “gas turbines; from model aircraft systems such as JPX. F.D. micro turbines.
Turbomin and Pegasus as well as KJ-66, .1-66 and TK-50 turbocharged engines feawred in this book and including
ING is any such type of engine that either currently exists or has not yet been invented. They are all "gas turbines" to create thrust!

In fact, an alternative and more appropriate name for such devices is model aircraft engines with turbocharged air jets. I prefer a term that is often used by specialists: “jet turbines, some people call them jet engines.
As you can see, we already have more than enough definitions at our disposal. There is no need to come up with any new definitions. Unfortunately. technical experts do not always speak the language that is logically correct and clear. Of course, to help the understanding of readers who do not have specialized knowledge, it is necessary to always indicate what exactly is meant by the word wrbines. This turbojet engine blueprints.

Not a great example, the engine draws in air at a speed of 0.25 kg/sec and accelerates it at the same time up to a speed of 400 m/s static thrust - 100 N *

Download drawings of an aircraft model turbojet engine.

An example of a page with drawings.

In the vastness of the world wide web, you can find many forums and discussions that relate to this type of engine. However, before that it was impossible to find a Russian-language instruction for the manufacture of a pulse jet engine, since only all the videos and text materials were in English. Fortunately, our long search was successful, and we present you with a material in which an overview of the Russian-language video on the manufacture of the Reinst engine is made.

We present to your attention a video from the author

What do we need for assembly:
- glass jar 400 ml;
- a can of condensed milk;
- copper wire;
- alcohol;
- scissors;
- compass;
- pliers;
- dremel;
- paper;
- pencil.

We note right away that from a can of condensed milk we only need a side tin. We also clarify that if there is no dremel at hand, then you can use an ordinary awl, since we need a hole of a small diameter. You can start assembling the engine.

To begin with, we do in the lid from glass jar hole with a diameter of approximately 12 mm. Why approximately? The fact is that there are simply no exact formulas for assembling such an engine.

After that, we need to collapse the diffuser. To do this, take paper and draw a template on it, as shown in the figure below. You need to draw a template with a compass. The measurements are as follows: the near radius from the middle is approximately 6 cm, the far one is 10.5 cm. After that, we measure 6 cm from the resulting sector. At the near radius, we cut it.

We apply the resulting template to a tin from a can of condensed milk and circle it.

After that, cut out the resulting part with scissors.

Bend a millimeter from the two edges in different directions.

Now we form a cone and hook the bent parts to each other.

Our diffuser is ready.

Now we drill holes on four sides on the narrow part of the diffuser.

We do the same on the lid around the central hole.

Now, with the help of a wire, we hang our diffuser under the hole on the lid. The distance from the top edge should be approximately 5-7 mm.

The hardest part to make and the most important to the operation of the turbine is the compressor stage. It usually requires a precision CNC machining tool or manual drive. Fortunately, the compressor operates at low temperatures and can be 3D printed.

Another thing that is usually very difficult to reproduce at home is the so-called "nozzle vane" or simply NGV. Through trial and error, the author found a way to do this without using welding machine or other exotic instruments.

What you need:
1) A 3D printer capable of working with PLA filament. If you have an expensive one like the Ultimaker that's great, but a cheaper one like the Prusa Anet will work too;
2) You must have enough PLA to print all the parts. ABS won't work for this project as it's too soft. You can probably use PETG, but this has not been tested, so do so at your own risk;
3) Can appropriate size (diameter 100 mm, length 145 mm). Preferably, the jar should have a removable lid. You can take an ordinary jar (say, from pineapple pieces), but then you will need to make a metal lid for it;
4) Galvanized iron sheet. A thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal. You can choose a different thickness, but you may have difficulty bending or sanding, so be prepared. In any case, you will need at least a short 0.5 mm thick galvanized iron strip to make the turbine casing spacer. Fits 2 pcs. Size 200 x 30 mm;
5) Sheet of stainless steel for making turbine wheel, NGV wheel and turbine casing. Again a thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal.
6) Solid steel rod for making the turbine shaft. Beware: mild steel just doesn't work here. You will need at least some carbon steel. Carbide will be even better. The shaft diameter is 6 mm. You can choose a different diameter, but then you will need to find suitable materials for the manufacture of the hub;
7) 2 pcs. 6x22 bearings 626zz;
8) branch pipes 1/2" 150 mm long and two end fittings;
9) drilling machine;
10) Sharpener
11) dremel (or something similar)
12) Hacksaw, pliers, screwdriver, M6 die, scissors, vise, etc.;
13) a piece of copper or stainless steel pipe for spraying fuel;
14) A set of bolts, nuts, clamps, vinyl tubes and other things;
15) propane or butane torch

If you want to start the engine, you will also need:

16) Propane tank. Gasoline or kerosene engines exist, but getting them to run on those fuels is a little tricky. It is better to start with propane and then decide if you want to switch to liquid fuel or if you are already happy gas fuel;
17) A manometer capable of measuring a pressure of several millimeters of water column.
18) Digital tachometer for measuring turbine speed
19) Starter. To start a jet engine, you can use:
Fan (100W or more). Better than centrifugal
electric motor (100 watts or more, 15,000 rpm; you can use your dremel here).

Making a hub

The hub will be made from:
1/2 "pipe 150 mm long;
two 1/2" hose fittings;
and two bearings 626zz;
With a hacksaw, cut the "herringbone" from the fittings, and use a drill to enlarge the remaining holes. Insert the bearings into the nuts and screw the nuts onto the nozzle. The hub is ready.

Making a shaft

Theory (and experience to some extent) says that it makes no difference if you make a shaft from mild steel, hard steel or stainless steel. So choose the one that is more accessible to you.

If you expect to get decent thrust from the turbine, a 10mm diameter steel rod (or larger) is better. However, at the time of writing, there was only a 6mm shaft.

Cut an M6 thread, on one side, 35 mm long. Next, you need to cut the threads from the other end of the rod so that when the rod is inserted into the hub (bearings abut against the end of the nozzle are tightened with the nuts that you made from the hose fittings) and when the lock nuts are screwed to the end of the thread on both sides, between Nuts and bearings leave a small gap. This is a very complicated procedure. If the thread is too short and there is too much backlash, you can cut the thread a little further. But if the thread seems too long (and there is no longitudinal clearance at all), it will be impossible to fix it.

As an option, shafts from laser printer, they are exactly 6 mm in diameter. Their disadvantage is that their limit is 20-25000 rpm. If you want higher rpm use thicker rods.

3D printing of turbine and NGV wheel matrices

For the manufacture of a turbine wheel, or rather its blades, press dies are used.
The shape of the blade becomes smoother if the blade is pressed not to the final shape in one step (pass), but to some intermediate shape (1st pass) and only then to the final shape (2nd pass). Therefore, there is an STL for both types of press dies. For the 1st pass and for the second.

Here are the STL files for the NGV wheel matrices and the STL files for the turbine wheel matrices:

Manufacturing of impellers

This design uses 2 kinds of steel wheels. Namely: turbine wheel and NGV wheel. Stainless steel is used for their manufacture. If they were made of lightweight or galvanized material, they would barely be enough to show how the engine works.

You can cut discs out of sheet metal and then drill a hole in the center, but chances are you won't hit the center. Therefore, drill a hole in the sheet of metal, and then glue the paper template so that the hole in the metal and the place for the hole in the paper template match. Cut out the metal according to the template.

Drill auxiliary holes. (Note that the center holes must already be drilled. Also note that the turbine wheel only has a center hole.)

It is also a good idea to leave a little allowance when cutting metal, and then grind the edge of the discs using a drill press and a sharpener.
At this point, it may be better to make a few spare disks. It will be clear why later.

Formation of blades

Sliced ​​discs are difficult to fit into the molding die. Use pliers to rotate the blades a little. Discs with pre-rolled blades are much easier to form with dies. Clamp the disk between the halves of the press and squeeze into a vise. If the matrices were previously lubricated with machine oil, everything will go much easier.

The vise is a fairly weak press, so you will most likely need to hit the knot with a hammer to compress it further. Use a few wooden pads to avoid breaking the plastic matrices.

Two-stage shaping (using 1st pass matrices and 2nd pass matrices to finalize the shape) gives definitely better results.

We make a support

The document file with the template for the prop is here:

Cut out the part from stainless steel sheet, drill the necessary holes and bend the part as shown in the photos.

We make a set of metal spacers

If you have lathe, you can make all spacers on it. Another way to do this is to cut some flat disks out of a sheet of metal, stack them one on top of the other, and bolt them tightly to get a solid piece.

Use a sheet of mild (or galvanized) steel 1 mm thick here.

Spacer template documents are here:

You will need 2 small discs and 12 large ones. The quantity is given for a sheet of metal 1 mm thick. If you are using a thinner or thicker one, you will need to adjust the number of discs to get the correct overall thickness.
Cut discs and drill holes. Turn discs of the same diameter as described above.

support washer

Because the support washer holds the entire NGV assembly, you must use a thicker material here. You can use a suitable steel washer or sheet (black) at least 2mm thick.

Support washer template:

Assembling the inside of the NGV

Now you have all the parts to assemble the NGV. Install them on the hub as shown in the photos.

The turbine needs some pressure to function properly. And in order to prevent the free circulation of hot gases, we need a so-called "turbine casing". Otherwise, the gases will lose pressure immediately after passing through the NGV. For proper functioning, the casing must fit the turbine + a small gap. Since our turbine wheel and NGV wheel are the same diameter, we need something to provide the necessary clearance. It's something - a spacer casing of the turbine. It's just a strip of metal that wraps around the NGV wheel. The thickness of this sheet determines the size of the gap. Use 0.5mm here.

Simply cut a strip 10 mm wide and 214 mm long from any steel sheet 0.5 mm thick.

The turbine shroud itself will be a piece of metal, the size of an NGV wheel. Or better yet, a couple. Here you have more freedom to choose the thickness. The casing is not just a strip as it has attachment lugs.

The documentation file with the template for the turbine casing is located here:

Slide the shroud spacer onto the NGV blades. Secure with steel wire. Find a way to secure the spacer so it doesn't move when you remove the wire. You can use soldering.

Then remove the wire and screw the turbine casing onto the spacer. Use wire again to wrap tightly.

Do as shown in the photos. The only connection between the NGV and the hub are three M3 screws. This limits the heat flow from the hot NGV to the cold hub and keeps the bearings from overheating.

Check if the turbine can rotate freely. If not, align the NGV shroud by repositioning the adjusting nuts on the three M3 screws. Vary the slope of the NGV until the turbine can rotate freely.

Making a combustion chamber

Stick this template over the metal sheet. Drill holes and cut the shape. There is no need to use stainless steel here. Roll up the cone. To keep it from unfolding, bend it.
The front of the camera is here:

Use this template again to make the cone. Use a chisel to make wedge slots and then roll into a cone. Secure the cone with a fold. Both parts are held together only by the friction of the engine. Therefore, you do not need to think about how to fix them at this stage.

Working wheel

The impeller consists of two parts:
vane disc and shroud

This is a Kurt Schreckling impeller that has been extensively modified by me to be more tolerant of fore and aft. Note the labyrinth preventing air backflow due to backpressure. Print out both parts and glue the cover onto the paddle disc. Good results can be obtained using acrylic epoxy.

Compressor stator (diffuser)

This piece is very complex. And when other parts can be (at least in theory) made without the use of precision equipment, it's impossible. Even worse, this part has the greatest impact on compressor efficiency. This means that the fact whether the whole engine will work or not is highly dependent on the quality and accuracy of the diffuser. That's why don't even try to do it manually. Do it on the printer.

For the convenience of 3D printing, the compressor stator is divided into several parts. Here are the STL files:

3D print and assemble as shown in the photos. Please note that the nut pipe thread The 1/2" should be attached to the center housing of the compressor stator. It is used to hold the bushing in place. The nut is attached with 3 x M3 screws.
Template where to drill holes in the nut:

Also pay attention to the heat-shielding cone made of aluminum foil. It is used to prevent softening of PLA parts due to heat radiation from the combustion liner. Any beer can can be used here as a source of aluminum foil.

You will need a tin can 145 mm long and 100 mm in diameter. It's better if you can use a jar with a lid. Otherwise, you'll need to mount the hub-mounted NGV to the bottom of the tin and you'll have more trouble reassembling the engine for service.

Cut off one bottom of the can. In the other bottom (or better in the lid) cut out round hole 52 mm. Then cut its edge into sectors, as shown in the photographs.

Insert the NGV assembly into the hole. Wrap the sectors with steel wire tightly.

Make a ring out of copper tube(outer diameter 6mm, inner diameter 3.7mm). Or better, you can use stainless steel tubing. The fuel ring should fit snugly against the internals of your can. Solder it.
Drill out the fuel injectors. These are just 16 pieces of 0.5 mm holes, evenly distributed around the ring. The direction of the holes must be perpendicular to the air flow. Those. need to drill holes in inside rings.

Please note that the presence of so-called "hot spots" in the engine exhaust depends almost exclusively on the quality of the fuel ring. Dirty or jagged holes and you end up with an engine that will just destroy itself when you try to start it. The presence of hot spots depends much less on the quality of the liner than others try to say. But the fuel ring is very important.

Check the quality of fuel spray by igniting it. The flames must be equal to each other.

Once completed, install the fuel injector into the can body.

All you have to do at this stage is put all the pieces together. If things go well, there will be no problems with this.

Coat the lid of the can with a heat-resistant sealant, you can use silicate glue with a heat-resistant filler. You can use graphite dust, steel powder and so on.

After the motor is assembled, check if its rotor rotates freely. If so, do a preliminary fire test. Use any enough powerful fan to blow out the air intake or simply rotate the shaft with your dremel. Lightly turn on the fuel and ignite the stream at the rear of the engine. Adjust the rotation to pass the flame into the combustion chamber.

NOTE: At this stage you are not trying to start the engine! The sole purpose of a fire test is to heat it up and see if it behaves well or not. At this stage, you can use a butane bottle, which is usually used for hand burners. If everything is fine, you can proceed to the next step. However, it is better to seal the engine with oven sealant (or silicate glue filled with a small amount of heat-resistant powder).

You can start the engine either by blowing air into it, or by turning its shaft with some kind of starter.
Be prepared to burn a few NGV drives (and possibly turbines) when trying to start. (That's why it was recommended to make a few backups in step 4.) Once you get comfortable with the engine, you can start it at any time without any problems.

Please note that at this time the engine is intended to be used primarily for educational and entertainment purposes. But it is a fully functional turbojet capable of spinning to any desired RPM (including self-destructive ones). Feel free to improve and modify the design to meet your goals. First of all, you will need a thicker shaft in order to achieve higher RPM and therefore more thrust. The second thing to try is to wrap the outer surface of the engine metal pipe- fuel line and use it as an evaporator for liquid fuel. This is where a hot outer wall engine design comes in handy. Another thing to think about is the lubrication system. In its simplest form, this may be in the form of a small bottle with a small amount of oil and two pipes - one pipe to depressurize the compressor and direct it to the bottle, and the other pipe to direct the oil from the pressurized bottle and direct it to the rear beam. Without lubrication, the engine can only run for 1 to 5 minutes depending on the temperature of the NGV (the higher the temperature, the less time work). After that, you need to lubricate the bearings yourself. And with the added lubrication system, the engine can run for a long time.

Piloting aircraft has become a hobby that unites adults and children from all over the world. But with the development of this entertainment, propellers for mini-planes are also developing. The most numerous engine for aircraft of this type is electric. But recently, jet engines (RD) have appeared on the arena of engines for RC aircraft models.

They are constantly supplemented with all sorts of innovations and notions of designers. The task before them is quite difficult, but possible. After the creation of one of the first models of a downsized engine, which became significant for aeromodelling, much changed in the 1990s. The first turbojet engine was 30 cm long, about 10 cm in diameter and weighing 1.8 kg, but over the decades, the designers managed to create a more compact model. If you thoroughly take up the consideration of their structure, then you can reduce the complexity and consider the option of creating your own masterpiece.

RD device

Turbojet engines (TRDs) operate by expanding heated gas. These are the most efficient engines for aviation, even carbon-fueled minis. From the moment the idea of ​​creating an aircraft without a propeller appeared, the idea of ​​a turbine began to develop throughout the society of engineers and designers. TRD consists of the following components:

• Diffuser;
• Turbine wheel;
• The combustion chamber;
• Compressor;
• stator;
• nozzle cone;
• guide apparatus;
• Bearings;
• Air intake nozzle;
• Fuel line and more.

Principle of operation

The structure of a turbocharged engine is based on a shaft that rotates with the help of compressor thrust and pumps air with rapid rotation, compressing it and directing it from the stator. Once in a freer space, the air immediately begins to expand, trying to find the usual pressure, but in the internal combustion chamber it is heated by fuel, which causes it to expand even more.

The only way for the pressurized air to escape is to exit the impeller. With great speed, he strives for freedom, heading in the opposite direction from the compressor, to the impeller, which spins with a powerful stream, and begins to rotate rapidly, giving traction force to the entire engine. Part of the received energy begins to rotate the turbine, driving the compressor with more force, and the residual pressure is released through the engine nozzle with a powerful impulse directed to the tail section.

The more air is heated and compressed, the greater the pressure generated and the temperature inside the chambers. The resulting exhaust gases spin the impeller, rotate the shaft and enable the compressor to constantly receive fresh air flows.

Types of TRD control

There are three types of motor control:

Types of engines for aircraft models

Jet engines on model aircraft come in several basic types and two classes: air-jet and missile. Some of them are outdated, others are too expensive, but gambling lovers of controlled aircraft are trying to test the new engine in action. With an average flight speed of 100 km/h, model aircraft only become more interesting for the viewer and the pilot. The most popular types of engine differ for controlled and bench models, due to different efficiency, weight and thrust. There are few types in aeromodelling:

• Missile;
• Direct-flow air-jet (PRVD);
• Pulsating air-jet (PuRVD);
• Turbojet (TRD);

Missile used only on bench models, and then quite rarely. Its principle of operation is different from air-jet. The main parameter here is the specific impulse. Popular due to the lack of the need to interact with oxygen and the ability to work in zero gravity.

Direct flow burns the air out environment, which is sucked from the inlet diffuser into the combustion chamber. The air intake in this case sends oxygen to the engine, which, thanks to internal structure pressurizes the fresh air stream. During operation, air approaches the air intake at a flight speed, but in the inlet nozzle it sharply decreases several times. Due closed space pressure is built up, which, when mixed with fuel, splashes out of reverse side exhaust at high speed.

Throbbing works identically to direct-flow, but in its case, the combustion of fuel is intermittent, but periodic. With the help of valves, fuel is supplied only at the necessary moments, when the pressure in the combustion chamber begins to drop. For the most part, a pulse jet engine performs between 180 and 270 fuel injection cycles per second. To stabilize the pressure condition (3.5 kg/cm2), forced air supply is used with the help of pumps.

turbojet engine, the device of which you considered above has the most modest fuel consumption, due to which they are valued. Their only downside is their low weight to thrust ratio. Turbine RD allow you to develop the speed of the model up to 350 km / h, while idling engine is kept at 35,000 rpm.

Specifications

An important parameter that makes model aircraft fly is thrust. It provides good power, capable of lifting large loads into the air. Thrust differs between old and new engines, but models built from 1960s blueprints, running on modern fuels, and upgraded with modern fixtures, efficiency and power increase significantly.

Depending on the type of taxiway, the characteristics, as well as the principle of operation, may differ, but for all of them to start, you need to create optimal conditions. The motors are started using a starter - other motors, mostly electric, which are attached to the motor shaft in front of the inlet diffuser, or the start is made by spinning the shaft with the help of compressed air supplied to the impeller.

engine GR-180

On the example of data from the technical passport of a serial turbojet engine GR-180 you can see the actual characteristics of the working model:
Thrust: 180N at 120,000 rpm, 10N at 25,000 rpm
RPM range: 25,000 - 120,000 rpm
Exhaust gas temperature: up to 750 C°
Jet blast velocity: 1658 km/h
Fuel consumption: 585ml/min (under load), 120ml/min (idle)
Weight: 1.2kg
Diameter: 107mm
length: 240mm

Usage

The main area of ​​application has been and remains aviation orientation. Quantity and size different types Aircraft turbofan engines are staggering, but each one is different and used when needed. Even in aircraft models of radio-controlled aircraft From time to time, new turbojet systems appear, which are presented to the general public at exhibitions and competitions. Attention to its use allows you to significantly develop the capabilities of engines, supplementing the principle of operation with fresh ideas.
In the last decade, skydivers and wingsuit extreme sport athletes have been integrating mini TRD as a source of thrust for flight using a wingsuit wingsuit fabric, in which case the motors are attached to the legs, or rigid wing, worn like a backpack on the back, to which the engines are attached.
Another promising area of ​​use is combat military drones, at the moment they are actively used in the US Army.

The most promising area for the use of mini turbojet engines is drones for transportation goods between cities and around the world.

Installation and connection

Installing a jet engine and connecting it to the system is a complex process. It is necessary to connect the fuel pump, bypass and control valves, tank and temperature sensors to a single circuit. Due to the impact high temperatures, refractory lined connections and fuel lines are commonly used. Everything is fixed with homemade fittings, a soldering iron and seals. Since the tubing may be as large as the head of a needle, the connection must be tight and insulated. Incorrect connection may result in destruction or explosion of the motor. The principle of connecting the chain on bench and flying models is different and must be carried out according to the working drawings.

Advantages and disadvantages of RD

All types of jet engines have many advantages. Each of the types of turbines is used for specific purposes, which are not afraid of its features. In aeromodelling, the use of a jet engine opens the door to overcoming high speeds and the ability to maneuver independently of many external stimuli. Unlike electric and internal combustion engines, jet models are more powerful and allow the aircraft to spend more time in the air.
conclusions
Jet engines for model aircraft can have different thrust, mass, structure and appearance. For aircraft modeling, they will always remain indispensable due to high performance and the ability to use a turbine using different fuels and operating principles. By choosing certain goals, the designer can adjust the rated power, the principle of traction, etc., by applying different types turbines to different models. The operation of the engine on combustion of fuel and pressurization of oxygen makes it as efficient and economical as possible from 0.145 kg/l to 0.67 kg/l, which aircraft designers have always achieved.

What to do? Buy or DIY

This question is not simple. Since turbojet engines, whether they are full-scale or scaled-down models, they are technically complex devices. Making it out is not an easy task. On the other hand, mini turbojet engines are produced exclusively in the USA or European countries, which is why their average price is $ 3,000, plus or minus 100 bucks. So buying a ready-made turbojet engine will cost you $ 3,500, including shipping and all related pipes and systems. You can see the price yourself, just google “P180-RX turbojet engine”

Therefore, in modern realities, it is better to approach this matter as follows - what is called do-it-yourself. But this is not an entirely correct interpretation, rather give the work to contractors. The engine consists of mechanical and electronic parts. We buy components for the electronic part of the mover in China, we order the mechanical part from local turners, but for this you need drawings or 3D models and, in principle, the mechanical part is in your pocket.

Electronic part

The controller for maintaining engine modes can be assembled on Arduino. To do this, you need a flashed Arduino chip, sensors - a speed sensor and a temperature sensor and actuators, an electronically controlled fuel supply damper. You can flash the chip yourself if you know programming languages, or go to the Arduino forum for a service.

Mechanical

With mechanics, all the spare parts in theory can be made by turners and millers, the problem is that for this you need to specifically look for them. It's not a problem to find a turner who will make the shaft and shaft sleeve, but everything else. The most difficult part to manufacture is the centrifugal compressor wheel. It is made either by casting. or on 5 coordinate milling machine. The easiest way to get an impeller centrifugal pump it is to buy it as a spare part for a turbocharger of an internal combustion engine of a car. And already under it to orient all the other details.